White Objective Patent

1- Melanostatin-1: is a peptide obtained via chemical synthesis, isolated from the frog brain, with an antagonistic
effect on -MSH. Melanostatin is (soluble in water) acts in opposition on the receptor and induces the
inhibition of melanin production. Melanostatin does not inhibit the quantity of -MSH produced, only its
pigmentation action. It therefore preserves its natural anti-inflammatory action.

2- Andrographolide is an active compound extracted from the leaves of Andrographis paniculata, an Asian plant
which grows in India and Malaysia, frequently used in traditional Indian medicine. This molecule is known to
reduce the production of endothelin-1, oxidative stress (by increasing the activity of superoxide dismutase) and
inflammatory reactions.

3- Azelaic acid is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase and can also inhibit the formation of free radicals.
Insoluble in its acid form, it requires a very strong usage concentration (20%). The use of Lysine azelate helps to
solubilize and therefore significantly reduce its concentration while preserving its DE-pigmenting activity.

4- Glabridin is a major component of the lipophilic fraction of the licorice extract. It has a dual activity: it inhibits
the tyrosinase but also the inflammation (cyclooxygenase inhibition).

5- Ascorbyl glucoside is a good inhibitor of tyrosinase and TRP-1, two enzymes responsible for the production of
melanin. It acts at an early stage by inhibiting the phosphorylation
i
of MITF, a transcription factor involved in
the regulation of the melanogenesis process. When the MITF expression is stimulated by -MSH, it binds to the
promoters for enzymes involved in the melanogenesis process and increases the expression of tyrosinase and
TRP-1. By inhibiting the MITF phosphorylation, ascorbyl glucoside deactivates it, thereby suppressing the
induction of the enzymes responsible for the production of melanin, or delayed pigmentation.

6- Vitamin C is also a powerful anti-free radical. d to regenerate vitamin E, another potent antioxidant. There are
three forms commonly used in cosmetics: Its ability to reduce (opposite reaction to oxidation) the already
formed melanin therefore corrects existing hyperpigmentation and protects against the immediate
pigmentation induced by oxidative stress.
ii
There are three forms commonly used in cosmetics: ascorbyl
palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and L-ascorbic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate, a fats oluble synthetic
ester of vitamin C, is stable in cosmetic formulas at neutral pH. L-ascorbic acid is the most active form of
vitamin C and has numerous benefits for the skin. L-ascorbic acid is water soluble and must be formulated at
low pH to stay active. In clinical studies vitamin C has been found to act as an antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory agent. When applied after UV burning, vitamin C reduces redness 50% sooner than untreated
areas. Psoriasis and and eczema have also shown clinical improvement with vitamin C. In addition, vitamin C
has been found to stimulate collagen synthesis. Note that vitamin C in product must be packaged to protect it
from excess light and air exposure.

7- Niacinamide (or Vitamin PP) has long been known for its de-pigmenting properties and anti-inflammatory
action (inhibition of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF, IL1, IL8).


PREVENTION CORRECTION
UV
filters

Melanocytes

Tyrosinase

Transfer

Lightening

Exfoliating
MLSA ANDRO. GLAB LAZ Vitamin pp Vitamin C GLYCOLIC
Cream x x x x x x x
Fluid x x x x x x x
Serum x x x x x x x
Pen x x x x x x x
Mains x x x x x x
H2O x x x
Moussant x x x x



i
Phosphorylation is the addition of a phosphate (PO43) group by a protein kinase to a protein or other organic
molecule. It turns many protein enzymes on and off, thereby altering their function and activity.

ii
Oxidative stress: a state of physiological stress in the body that arises from exposure to high levels of reactive
oxygen species (ROS) relative to the level of neutralizing antioxidants.