INternship Report

Apparel Internship at B.L. International, Noida.
2014

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Bachelors of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

A Report on Apparel Internship

Submitted By

ANJALI NARAYAN & SAMIRAN HAZARIKA

Under the Guidance of
Mrs. Girijha Jha

Department of Fashion Technology
National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi
September, 2014

Apparel Internship at B.L. International, Noida. 2014

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LEARNING OUTCOME
Fulfilling our internship in the production Department was a great exposure for us. We
gained knowledge on Garment sector and how the entire unit works. The apparel Internship
program at B L International has been an enriching experience.
Here, we learnt a lot about


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Apart from ones efforts, the success of any person depends largely on the encouragement and
guidelines of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people
who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this internship.

We would like to show our greatest appreciation to Mrs. Girijha Jha, our faculty guide. We
cant say thank you enough for their tremendous support and help. We felt motivated and
encouraged every time we attended our meeting. Without their encouragement and guidance
this internship would not have been fruitful.

The guidance and support received from all the employees of B.L. International Pvt. Ltd. who
contributed to enhance our knowledge was vital for the successful accomplishment of the
internship. We are grateful for their constant support and help. They were always involved in
the entire process, shared their knowledge and encouraged us to think. We would like to thank
all of them for their effort and help provided to us to get such an excellent opportunity.

Last but not the least; we thank our Industry mentor, Mr. Vishal Mishra for guiding and
directing us through our internship.


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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
As part of my internship program of Batchelo


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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents Page No.
CHAPTER 1:Company Profile
1.1 About the company
1.2 Success Mantra
1.3 Company Values
1.4 Product Development
1.5 Manufacturing And Quality
1.6 Market
1.7 Clients
1.8 Process Flow In The Unit

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CHAPTER 2 : Departmental Study
2.1 Merchandising Department
2.1.1 Process Flow
2.1.2 Production Order File
2.1.3 Swatch File

2.2 Sourcing Department
2.2.1 Trims
2.2.2 Fabric Store
2.2.3 Accessories and Trims Store
2.2.4 Checking and Approval
2.2.5 Types of Trims

2.3 Production Planning and Control Department
2.3.1 Working of Production Planning and Control
2.3.1.1 Analysis of MOU
2.3.1.2 Production Scheduling
2.3.1.3 Time and Action Plan
2.3.2 Responsibilities of PPC
2.3.3 Process flow of PPC Department

2.4 Industrial Engineering Department
2.4.1 Duties of I.E Department
2.4.2 Making of operation bulletin
2.4.2.1 Operation bulletin
2.4.3 Hourly Production Sheet
2.4.4 Time and Motion Study
2.4.5 Production report
2.4.6 Allowances

2.5 Maintenance Department

2.6 Spreading and Cutting Department

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2.6.1 Process Flow

2.7 Sewing Department
2.7.1 Hierarchy
2.7.2 Manpower for Sewing Department
2.7.2.1 Floor In-charge
2.7.2.2 Supervisors
2.7.2.3 Operators
2.7.2.4 Quality Assurance Officer
2.7.2.5 Quality Controller
2.7.3 Hourly Production Report

2.8 Quality Department
2.8.1 Activities Performed by Quality Department

2.9 Sampling Department
2.9.1 Work Flow

2.10 Washing Department
2.10.1 Washing Method

2.11 Finishing Department
2.11.1 Pressing
2.11.2 Inspection

2.12 Packaging Department
2.12.1 Folding
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CHAPTER 3: Projects

1
ST
Project:
CALCULATION OF NON-PRODUCTIVE TIME IN THE SEWING
DEPARTMENT

3.1.1 Literature Review
3.1.2 Aim
3.1.3 Need
3.1.4 Methodology
3.1.5 Process
3.1.6 Results of the Pilot Run
3.1.6.1 Further Division
3.1.7 Final Study
3.1.7.1 Further Division

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2
nd
Project :
INCREASING THE PRODUCTIVITY OF STYLE #XYZ

3.2.1 Aim
3.2.2 Problem
3.2.3 Order Quantity
3.2.4 Department Process Flow
3.2.5 Process
3.2.6 Washing Department
3.2.7 Checking Department
3.2.8 Cutting Department
3.2.9 Sewing Department
3.2.10 Problems Areas Identified
3.2.10.1 Insufficient Supply of Fabric From Vendors
3.2.10.2 Capacity of Washing Department
3.2.10.3 Lack of Manpower
3.2.10.4 Set Making
3.2.10.5 Inter-Department Communication and Responsibility Gap
3.2.10.6 Lack of Management

3.2.11 Solutions
3.2.11.1 Increase in Vendors Supply
3.2.11.2 Overtime in Washing Department
3.2.11.3 Allotments of Helpers
3.2.11.4 Fixing The Key Responsibility Areas
3.2.11.5 Constant Follow Up

3.2.12 Results

3
rd
Project :
PREPARATION & INTRODUCTION OF OPERATION BULLETIN
SHEET IN THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

3.3.1 Literature Review
3.3.2 Aim
3.3.3 Problem
3.3.4 Process

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CHAPTER 4 : Bibliography

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APPENDIX

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COMPANY PROFILE


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1.1 ABOUT THE COMPANY

Established in 1989, B.L. International is one of the Indias emerging garment export houses
today.
The company has a turnover of Rs. 200 crores per year. It has 6 manufacturing units in Noida
and 1 manufacturing unit in Tripura.
B.L. International manufactures high fashion ladies apparel, ranging from casual outfits to
formal evening wear. Recently they have expanded their range to include mens and
childrens clothing as well. The company manufactures half a million pieces per month as far
as production is concerned.

1.2 SUCCESS MANTRA

B.L. International (an ISO 9001:2000 certified), trendsetter in designing & supplying
garments is moving leaps and bounds. With a growth rate of 80%, it is sending a powerful &
positive signal to the international market. A young at heart company, B.L. International is
constantly innovating, keeping abreast of the internationally in-vogue trends and is in
compliance with the worldwide standards.
Its state of the art machinery, high quality capable workforce and punctual deliveries have
earned it an enviable client base. Intensive dialogues with its international partner help it to
fully understand the market pulse, making it a force to be reckoned with, in women and
children wear. Its in-house design studio sources the hottest young talent from the fashion
industry and encourages them to flower to their best potential through an open door and
broadminded policy.

SENSE, SPIRIT AND STYLE.

BL INTERNATIONAL is always confident about its designs and trends. Designers are not
only skilled but also creative. As a result the fabrics are top of the line and the difference will
be appreciated upon first touch.
BL INTERNATIONAL constantly aims to have a collective approach of being more
competitive in the world market and seek governments attention in more authoritative
manner.


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1.3 COMPANY VALUES

The company believes in-
Trust
Responsibility
Team work
Right approach
Transparency
Interpersonal relationship
Respect
Open door policy
Companys motto is to life up to their clients expectations.
1.4 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Constantly working on innovations based on getting informations from the fashion
shows/ramps abroad and outsourcing from overseas are all an effort to stay in tune with ever
changing trends & consumer aspirations. Inspiration & concepts provided by their esteemed
buyers are followed to their satisfaction. An increasing focus on customised accessories for
every style makes this a set-up that sees design from the clients point of view.
Professional merchandisers look after the whole production process right from the first
sample to the final shipping of the products, which is with approval of lab dips, size sets,
accessories, cutting, stitching and finishing.

1.5 MANUFACTURING AND QUALITY

Their in-house manufacturing facilities & piece to piece checking of finished garments is
done to ensure best quality output in production. Along with the work-force, technical
infrastructure is the twin pillar on which an organisation stands. Highly sophisticated
computerized embroidery machines & CAD/CAM system cuts down the production lead time
while reducing waste also. Their computerised IT Technology provides online connectivity to
all the departments, keeping a tab on every stage of production at the press of a button.
Keeping the right balance between quality and quantity, every aspect of the production, every
little process is looked after by experienced quality personnel. Be it designing, merchandising,
production, machinery and employees or working condition, the ISO 9001-2000 norms are
maintained.


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1.6 MARKET

They export mainly to the various European countries. Their major buyers are from Spain,
Denmark, United Kingdom, France, Italy, and Portugal & United States of America.
Kazo is a brand of B.L. International which was launched in 2007. It is an emerging brand for
womens wear.
1.7 CLIENTS

ZARA
PULL & BEAR
NEXT
VEROMODA
MANGO
BERSHKA
ONLY
NEWLOOK
C & A
UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON
EXIT KIDS
LINDUX
LE PETITES
GALARIES LAFAYETTE
TOPSHOP
WARE HOUSE
D2
VILA
OUTFIT
NATION


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1.8 PROCESS FLOW IN THE UNIT

Vendor

Figure: 1.1
VENDOR
FABRIC
STORE
HEAD OFFICE
UNIT GATE
TRIMS AND
ACC. Store
CHECK
FAIL
CHECK FAIL
PASS PASS
CUTTING
DEPARTMENT
SEWING DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT PACKAGING
I.R
DEPARTMENT

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DETAILED STUDY OF EVERY
DEPARTMENT


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2.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

Merchandising refers the planning, buying and selling activities required to have the right
fashion oriented merchandising at the right time, in the right place, in the right quantities, at
the right prices, and with the right sales promotion.
2.1.1 PROCESS FLOW

DESIGN
FEEDBACK OF DEVELOPMENT FROM
THE BUYER

SAMPLING ORDER
SALESMAN
RECEIVE ORDER
SIZE SET
PRICE AND LEAD
TIME
ORDER RECEIVE
Figure: 2.1

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2.1.2 PRODUCTION ORDER FILE (P.O.F.)

P.O.F. is sent to production, store and quality department.
It comprises of the following sheets and formats.
Production file check list
Production T&A
Production Sheet
R&D average sheet
Approved measurement sheet
How to measure sheet
R&D before and after the measurement sheet
Process analysis sheet
Process control sheet
Mini marker
Sealer sample report
Approved fabric lots
Fabric swatch
Fabric shrinkage report
Embroidery swatch
Accessory swatch
Label & Tag attachment, fusing and bead work instructions.


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2.1.3SWATCH FILE
Date ..
Reference

Print/Colour
Quality .

Lab Dip/Strike off
Width.

Rate
Comments.
Swatch is Placed Here


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2.2 SOURCING DEPARTMENT

This Department is responsible for all the sourcing and testing of the fabric and trims in the
company.
SR. NO.

DESCRIPTION SOURCING COUNTRY
1 Fabrics India, China and Buyers nominated vendors
2 Trims India, China and Buyers nominated vendors
3 Chemicals India
4 Carton & Poly Bags India
Table 2.1

2.2.1 TRIMS

They are also important as far as the fabric is concerned they give a good look to the fabric
and they also they incur a major cost in the garments. Commonly used trims in the unit for
their buyers are:-
Buttons
Laces
Wash Care Labels
Size Labels
Threads
Zippers
Rivets


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2.2.2 FABRIC STORE

Fabric comes from the head office and is stored in the fabric store of the manufacturing unit.
It is already checked from the head office.
Fabric inspection is done by the four point system and then fabric is issued to the unit when
the requests are made by the fabric store in the unit. No fabric inspection takes place here.
Though quality checks are done while laying the fabric through normal visual inspection.
Along with the fabric all the trims are also ordered and received by the head office only and
then issued as per the requests made.
Information on the Fabric roll:-
Date of Checking
Fabric Supplier
Fabric Description
Style No.
Lot. No.
Roll No.
Width
Fabric Weight
Length (meters)
Defect Points
Checked By

The Fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on Challan. All fabric is not issued at one go,
instead it is issued as required. The Challan contains information regarding Style No., Colour,
Buyers Name and quantity to be issued to Cutting Tables.

Figure: 2.2

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2.2.3 ACCESSORY & TRIM STORE
As per the buyers need the merchandiser makes a trim card in which samples of all the trims
that are going to be associated with a particular style are attached. The trims card other than
trims contains information like quantity, colour, and style number. Buyer, vendor etc. It also
states the size and content of trims. This trim sheet is handed over to purchase department by
the merchandiser. Usually 5% more than required trims are procured as they are subjected to
defects, leading to rejection.
Purchase department orders the trims of required specification and required quantity as
specified in the trims card. The order is placed with either a local vendor or specially
imported. The buyer may also nominate the suppliers of the trims. The merchandiser must get
any locally procured trim approved by the buyer. Only after his approval is the order is
placed.
Trim store receives the ordered trims and stores it. Bin storage system is there with having
entry in the system so whenever anything is needed can find easily.
2.2.4 CHECKING & APPROVAL
Once the trims are housed a random checking is done. Firstly, the sizes and specifications of
trims are matched with the ones on the trims card. Then sample of each type of trims are also
checked for quality. The quantity of trims is also checked. Lab testing (like testing button pull
strength, snap fastener testing and thread testing etc.) is also done if specified by the buyer.
Trims that do not meet the acceptance level are rejected and separated from the rest. The
rejected pieces are sent back to the vendor for debit or replacement.
After checking a trims swatch card is prepared. The swatch card carries all the trims for a
particular style and information like the buyer, vendor, style number etc. This swatch card is
sent to the merchandiser for approval. Merchandiser checks the trims with the one he ordered
and if it complies with his buyers requirements, he approves it and sends it back to trim store.
The trims are now packed and stored style wise. They are ready to be issued to the production
department. People from the production department approach the trim store as and when they
require the trims. Trims store too have information that which style will be produced where
and which trims are required when and in how much quantity. The trims are issued against
challan.

2.2.5 TYPE OF TRIMS
Labels and Tags :- Main label, size label, wash care label, country of origin label, loop label,
content label, carton stickers, unique price code tickets, logo transfer etc.
Buttons and Fasteners: - Available in different sizes and materials, snap buttons, hooks,
Velcro tape etc.
Beads: - Embroidery material in variety of shapes and sizes.

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Interlining and fusing material: - Paper fusing and other type of fusing.
Tape, Ribbons and Laces: - Shoulder tape, neck tape, twill tape, satin laces, elastic ribbons,
braids etc.
Embroidery Patches, Transfer Prints, Zippers, Needles.
Packing Material: - Poly bags, hangers, adhesive tape, cartons, tissue paper.
Stationary: - Card roll paper, Pens, Magic pens, Pencils, Alteration stickers, Record books.


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2.3 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL DEPARTMENT
After the merchandising department, it is the PPC which has complete coherent information
about the order. After order confirmation and before ten days of the fabric reaching the
company the merchandiser compiles the PO quantity, work order, colour of fabric, actual
breakup, specification sheets and patterns and hands it over to PPC. Then PPC compiles all
this information in the required manner and hands it over to the respective departments of the
production floor, so that these departments can be coordinated.
2.3.1 WORKING OF PPC
The major functions of this department can be divided in the following categories:
2.3.1.1. ANALYSIS OF MOU
After receiving the MOU from the marketing people, the PPC does the analysis of the MOU
and traces information about the things not mentioned. They make the fabric, thread and
accessory, swatch card, trim consolidated and fabric conciliations. They coordinate with the
stores to have on hand all required material to able to issue for further processing when
required. They also prepare work orders which contain important information about fabric,
sewing thread, label placement, embroidery, pressing, and hang tag specifications, packing
details etc.
2.3.1.2 PRODUCTION SCHEDULING
They prepare schedule for the execution of orders and then every morning they collect the
information regarding the progress of the order from cutting, sewing, finishing and packing. It
directs each and every department that the job assigned to them has to be finished by the
planned date.
2.3.1.3 TIME AND ACTION PLAN
It checks whether all departments follow a plan accurately or not. If the actual work done is
found to be less than the estimated and planned amount of work done then corrective
measures are taken to meet the order in the predefined time.


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2.3.2 RESPONSIBILITIES OF PPC

Minute detail regarding particular style is sent to every department.
Line layout development.
Report generation.
Flow maintenance.
Manpower & Machine power planning.
Operator productivity monitoring.
Reduce work time
Conduct the Pre-production (PP) meeting.

2.3.3 PROCESS FLOW OF PPC DEPARMENT

Figure: 2.3
The central PPC prepares the line plan and sends it
to the factory PPC

Merchandiser procures the order and blocks the
production capacity

The order is confirmed and merchandiser submits
the TNA format to the central PPC

Central PPC analyses all the line plans and
calculates the lead times for the shipment

PPM date is decided and PP meeting is held and
thus production starts


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2.4 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Activities carried out in this department forms the backbone of the entire production
department. Here the industrial engineer determines not only which is the best machine to be
used for required process but also which is best method for using the machine and training the
operators to achieve maximum production efficiency. Once the production planning and
control department gets the order file from the merchandiser, it instructs the logistics
department to prepare for setting up a new line on the floor. Along with the approved PP
sample, the file is forwarded to this department with important documents like:-
Production file description
Pre- production notes
Design work Sheet
Fabric reference sample
Fabric test report
Garment accessories test report
Accessories and Trim card
Purchase order sheet
Fabric order sheet

2.4.1 DUTIES OF I.E. DEPARTMENT

The major functions of IE department include:-
Making the Operation Bulletin
Conduct Time and Motion Study
Prepare floor layout
Generate machine population report
Sale and purchase of machines
Monitor production control reports Hourly, Daily and weekly Reports
Monitor Finishing Report
Monitor running cost
Monitor needle report


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The first four functions are essentially pre production responsibilities of the industrial
engineers and are carried out in conjunction with Research and Development Department.
The department working in co-ordination with the planning department establishes the daily
factory targets and follows up on the same. A daily hourly production score monitor is also
maintained where in every assembly line output is available on hourly basis.
Running Cost of the sewing floor is also taken out once in a month to find out the cost of
running the lines. In this, efficiency of each line is also calculated.
2.4.2 MAKING OF OPERATION BULLETIN
The following three things are covered under this:-
1. Operation breakdown.
2. Number of machines.
3. Number of operators & helpers required for a particular style.
4. Operator grade required for a particular operation.
5. Machine SAM, Helper SAM, Total SAM.
In this they study the approved sample carefully and all the documents related to the sample
provided in file. This helps them to identify exactly how the garment is made. Then they do
the operation break down of the sample where they try to keep the handling the garments as
minimum as possible and also try to make the simplest way of completing the garments. The
aim is simplifying the sewing process, minimum handling, increased efficiency, there by
meeting the target hourly or daily production figure. The operations are broken down into
simple steps and the type of stitch used at a particular place is also ascertained. All these
operations are put in a flow or an order the best suited to complete the garment efficiently and
effectively. This flow and flow break down of operations is called Operation Bulletin.


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2.4.2.1 OPERATION BULLETIN

Style: Unit:
Buyer: Line:
Description: Date:

SR.
NO.
OPERATION M/C M/O
S.A.M
HELPER
S.A.M
TARGET
(HOURLY)
ATTACHMENT TOTAL NO.
OF
OPERATORS
TOTAL
NO.
OF
HELPERS
1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Table: 2.2


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2.4.3 HOURLY PRODUCTION SHEET
STYLE NO. PLANNED DAILY OUTPUT

PCS. PER HR. @
M/C SMV PLANNED DAILY OUTPUT

PCS PER HR. @ 100%
CREATED ON UNIT

LINE

Table: 2.3
LINE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
PLANNED
LOADING

ACTUAL
LOADING

Table: 2.4
SR.
NO.
OP
NO.
OPERATION EMP
CODE
SMV TARGET
(HR)
HOURLY PRODUCTION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
TOTAL
PROD.
1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Table: 2.5


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2.4.4 TIME AND MOTION STUDY
TIME AND Motion study is conducted when buyers asks for it or when an unknown style
garment comes in for production. It is also done if the production department puts in a request
for extra machines and at times when the production output of that particular style is not
coming and not meeting the required targets. Time study is done to determine how much time
is consumed to do a particular operation in the garment. Motion study is study of the physical
activities of the sewing operator when he indulges in completing a task and thereby, reducing
or eliminating the wasteful movements. In the time study the study for a particular operation
is noted with help of stopwatch for a fixed number of pieces. The thread breakage time,
machine out of order, waiting for feed etc. are also taken in to account. At least the average
time taken to complete one particular operation on one piece is calculated and with help of
this time the required number of machines for that particular operation is allocated as per the
set target.
This activity and other activities related to the research of better operator methods and
development of efficient guide/attachments etc. to achieve quality production are
responsibility of the R&D department. They are carried for a style just before the production
to be started. The flowchart at the end of this explains the role of R&D department before the
production of new line. An efficient and reliable R&D department minimizes the risks that the
floor in charge has to take in his job.


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2.4.5 PRODUCTION REPORT

Logistics department also keeps record of the production that takes place in the different
production units headed by different floor in charges. Production scores are maintained on
hourly, daily and monthly basis. This is done to keep track of the orders made and to see how
much production has been completed for different orders and how much still left. The
production figures are compared with the production targets set for them by PPC and if the
target is not being achieved then the reason for it is ascertained.
2.4.6 ALLOWANCES

Different types of allowances are applied to the overall time after the sewing process and the
time taken to do an operation is added to it.

Machine allowances vary depending on the amount of handling required for the different type
of machines.

ALLOWANCE %AGE MACHINE TYPE
10 Single Needle Lock Stitch, Button sew
15 Single needle 2-3 thread, Lock stitch, Over Lock, Button sew and 2
Needle Chain stitch machines
20 Twin needle 4-6 thread, Lock and Chain stith, Blind stitch, Safety
Stitch and Button Machines
25 3-4 needle, 7-9 thread, Flat lock and Chain stitch machines.
Table: 2.6


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2.5 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The department handles all sorts of problems regarding machines and other work aids and
attachments
The maintenance room is very well organized with all tools hung on the wooden boards at
their proper places. All the attachments are stored in drawers which are well maintained. All
folders of one type are stored in one drawer, all feed dogs of one kind in another and so on.
One mechanic has been assigned to each sewing line that remains in and around the line
during the production hours to look up for the problems that crop up. During the lunch break,
cleaning of all machines is being done. The mechanic is always on the watch in the line and
responds to any machine failure. The average time taken by the mechanic to reach there is
three minutes. He also does the shifting of machines from one place to other with the help of
helpers.
The oil replacement of the machine is done every six months.
A record of the needles changed in each line is kept and the reason of why they were changed
in case of knitted garments they uses ball point needle which helps in the smooth sewing of
knitted garments without cutting its thread and open up its loops.
Maintenance department is further divided into two parts:-

1. Machine Maintenance: - The work of this department is to do the maintenance of
machines when they stop working or during the time of their service. They are only work in
the production area.

2. Factory Maintenance: - The main work of this department is to do the maintenance work
of only lightings, water cooler etc. They have to maintain the generator which is used during
the power cuts in the company. Time to time they change the lightings of factory, also they
did the maintenance of washing units and different types of machines placed there.


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2.6 SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT

2.6.1 PROCESS FLOW

YES NO

YES NO

NO

Receives Line Plan from the production
merchant
Preparation of the cut plan
Check for
pattern, fabric,
style file
availability
Contact production merchant Preparation of lay slip
QC Check
Lay Set Up
Re-preparation of plan and lay
slip
Spreading
Marker
QC
Check
Re-Making

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YES

Figure: 2.4

Figure: 2.5

Figure: 2.6

Cutting
Numbering
Bundling
Feeding the Lines

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2.7 SEWING DEPARTMENT
This department receives its input either from the cutting department or from the embroidery
department. Sewing department also have quality team in it which have its own men
2.7.1 HIERARCHY

Production
Sewing
Department

Quality
Floor
In-Charge
Supervisors Operators
Endline
Checkers
Inline
Checkers
Quality
Controllers
Quality
Assurance
Officer
Figure: 2.7

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2.7.2 MANPOWER FOR SEWING DEPARTMENT
FLOOR IN CHARGE

2
Quality Assurance officers

2
Supervisors

1 for each line and 1 assistant
Quality Controllers

4
Operators

As per required style
In line Checkers

1 for each line
Endline Checkers

1 for each line
Total Sewing Lines 12
Table: 2.7

Each line has a target to achieve by the end of the day. The stitching floor head in consultation
with the supervisors and the tailors decide this target. The process of stitching and checking of
the stitched garments is carried out simultaneously. Checking insures production of defect
free garments and hence reduces the transfer of defects from the stitching department to the
next department, which is going to use the output of stitching department as its input.

Figure: 2.8


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2.7.2.1 FLOOR INCHARGE

The stitching floor head i.e. the floor in charge decides the stitching lines in which the input
has to be fed for stitching. He looks to all the sewing difficulties that come and rectifies them,
by providing assistance to the supervisors. He ensures that his daily production is not being
hindered and gives out the planned output. If any problem occurs, then he is the one who is
answerable to the management.

He is the person who gives the Hourly Production Report to the production manager by filling
in all the details about the various styles being produced on his floor.

The floor In-charge also reviews the Daily Production Report containing the total production
of all styles in each line on a particular day and consults it with the production manager as
well as the QA of the floor so as to decide their actions in the upcoming time.

He also maintains the daily unit report which keeps a record of the number of garments
transported from cutting to sewing and sewing to finishing. It is necessary for keeping track of
all pieces which are made in the unit.

The floor in charge is also concerned with making the Batch Production Report which
basically carries a summary of the style, colour, production target, total number of pieces
received from cutting. Total number of pieces in production and total number of pieces sent
for finishing. Besides this, it carries report about the total manpower present on the production
Floor that day so that it can be used for giving salaries or wages.


35

2.7.2.2 SUPERVISORS

There is one supervisor for each line who monitors the work of each operator and helps them
out so that the production is fast and defect free. He does the line balancing with the help of
Floor in charge and looks out for different problems and bottlenecks. Before giving work to
the tailors floor gives demonstration to the operators, so that it become easier for them to
stitch the cloth. If they have any query then they can ask him. The tailors are provided with
the templates and samples as per the requirements.
He is also required to fill the Hourly Production report which needs to be accessed by Floor
In-charge as well as production manager.
The supervisor is basically concerned with the Line balancing. He is required to fill in a
format called Line Bottleneck Recording which concerned information about the all
machines, all operations, target given and target achieved. The difference between the target
given and target achieved shows the bottleneck areas. Thus the supervisors actually get to
locate the key areas they should work on and perform the line balancing.
2.7.2.3 OPERATORS

The operators are the people who directly stitch the garment.
The operators are required to fill in the Job Operator Card where he fills how many pieces he
has produced in each hour. This data is very helpful for supervisors when they are doing line
balancing and removing bottlenecks.
The Operator is required to keep the Operation Specification sheet with him whom various
things like style, operation name, machine setting (stitch density, stitch type, machine RPM,
thread and needles) are stated. Along with this, certain precautions are stated which the
operator is required to read before he performs the operation.


36

2.7.2.3 QUALITY ASSURANCE OFFICER

There is QA i.e. Quality Assurance Officer who is the whole sole caretaker of the quality
issues that occur on the floor. He is the person who, along with Floor in-charge decides where
the critical points are and what could be the possible areas of defects. He supervises the
Quality Controllers as well as the Inline and End line checkers.
The QA officer performs Daily Audit Report on finished garments of all the styles as and
when he feels. If he feels that the defect % is high, he takes the necessary actions.
After the garments are sewn and have been inspected for defects i.e. just before sending them
to Kaj and button room or Finishing Department, a Final Audit Report is made to identify the
quality level of goods being sent to other departments. In BL International audit is done at
AQL 2.5 for buyers like C&A , Only, Vero Moda and for NEXT AQL is done on 1.5 .

LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE AQL

1.5 2.5
Major Def. Minor Def. Major Def. Minor Def.
2-50 8

51-90 13

0 0 0 1
91-150 20

0 1 1 2
151-280 32

1 2 2 3
281-500 50

2 3 3 4
501-1200 80

3 4 5 6
1201-3200 125

5 6 7 8
Table: 2.8

If the audit failed to pass the required AQL, then the whole lot was rechecked and 100%
rework was done before sending it to Finishing.


37

2.7.2.4 QUALITY CONTROLLER

The quality controller of each line is responsible for looking over the quality issues of his line.
The Quality Controller of line is responsible is required to fill in the cutting feedback in the
cutting feedback report each time he receives garment bundles from the cutting room. He is
required to fill in the basic details about the style (style number, colour, number of bundles,
number of pieces received, etc.). If he finds any mistakes which he feels need to be rectified,
he gives his remarks in the correction in cutting column. This report helps in avoiding
confusions and misinterpretations between the cutting and the sewing rooms.
He also performs the mobile/ random inspection and checks the quality of goods being made
by the operators. He fills a Mobile Inspection Report for this. The stitched garments are
collected from each operator and checked for defects. The defective piece found is returned
back to the operator who stitched it so that he learns from his earlier mistakes and produces
quality goods or pieces.
The Quality Controller is also responsible for filling in the Measurement Control Chart to find
the variances of measurements from the given specifications.
Quality Controller has to fill different formats to control the quality of the goods produced by
the operators.


38

2.7.3 HOURLY PRODUCTION REPORT

DATE: - UNIT:-
LINE A LINE B LINE C LINE D TOTAL G.
TOTAL
TIME

8:30-9:30

9:30-10:30

10:30-11:30

11:30-12:30

LUNCH BREAK
1:00-2:00

2:00-3:00

3:00-4:00

4:00-5:00

Table: 2.9
STYLE CUTTING

STITCHING FINISHING

Table: 2.10


39

2.8 QUALITY DEPARTMENT

Quality is matter of immense important without it no process can achieve the level what is
expected by the consumer. Brand image is also depends on the quality of the good produced.
Quality assurance play a vital role in the economic production while the good are being
produced right at first time all needed great amount of resource like: manpower; time,
material, money, power, machinery, production loss etc. For the quality departments people
have to inspect each and every step involve in the production and if they find any irregularity
it is their responsibility to make it correct. In this process they follow many type of inspection
at various level of production
2.8.1 ACTIVITIES PERFORMED BY QUALITY DEPARTMENT
Through process quality assurance of end process through following at various stage of
production:-
Fabric and Trims testing
Sample Inspection
Setting Quality Standard
Marker Inspection
Spreading and cutting inspection
In line inspection
Final Inspection
Size and measurement check
Garment Defect Check
Tags and Label Inspection
Monthly report of the sewing defect
Monthly report of the finishing department
Monthly report of %age alteration

Final inspection at the time of dispatch, for this they follow AQL 2.5, line inspection for
measurement checking only carried out on 100%. Inline checking of measurement is done in
finishing.


40

2.9 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
By definition, sample can be defined as piece of cloth or garment in the manufacturing
process which can as a specimen for the future production. Sample may be produced as per
ones own idea or as per the buyers instruction.
Initially the design transfers the idea on the paper in the form of sketch as per the needs of
customer and as per the measurement given to him. The patterns are prepared, after adding
seam allowances, the pattern are cut and then used for garment panel cutting. Then garment
stitching is takes place, once the garment satisfies all specification, it can be used as a sample
for the bulk production.
Specification sheet with detail sketch of garment for merchandising department is sent to the
sampling department, which consultation with the pattern engineering department first make
the pattern, then make samples and set back to merchandising department. While by its size
sampling department, might look like a small and insignificant department buy by the value
term it is one of the most important department of any manufacturing unit, because in a
manufacturing unit any issue of bulk order from buyer depends on the prepared sample.
Therefore, perfection and commitment to excellent to excellent are the key word for a
sampling department.
2.9.1 WORK FLOW
Merchandiser sends the requiting for the making some sample for the collection with
either sketch or sample.
Sampling department analyze the design.
Then the required trims/sewing thread in received from the concerned merchandiser or
sometime from the running order for the same buyer.
Pattern master makes the basic pattern as per the standard measurements.
Pattern Cutting
Checking of the sample by the merchandiser, in case of any modification changes
done on the spot.
Dispatch the sample.


41

2.10 WASHING DEPARTMENT
The department deals with the washing or cleaning of the manufactured garments.
There are three types of machines in the department i.e. for washing, hydro extracting
and drying.
Also there is one Per Chloro Ethylene (PERC) machine is also there.
The garments are first washed in the washing machine where all impurities are
removed, then hydro extractor where the water present in the clothes are pulled out of
the garment and finally in the drying machine where it is dried.

2.10.1 WASHING METHOD

Figure: 2.9

Pieces from Production

Counting of Pieces

Makes bunch of fixed number of Pieces

Washing Machine

Hydro Extractor

Tumble Dry

Finishing


42

2.11 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
After the stitching of garment, it is handed over to the finishing department for the finishing
process. This department deals with the final checking, mending, pressing, measurement
checking, of the garments, final checking, spotting etc. of the garments.
The flow of the work in the finishing department is as follows:-

Thread Cutting

Spotting

Initial Checking

Alteration Room

Inline Sewing
Machine

Full Pressing

Full Checking/ Final Thread Cutting

Measurement Checking

Repressing

Mending

Quality Audit Table

R.F.I.D Tag

Packaging

Figure: 2.10

43

2.11.1 PRESSING
After the cutting of threads the garments they are ready for pressing. The operators keep the
unpressed pieces on the side of table and from where it is took to the pressing line by the
helpers. The irons are provided with the Teflon plates so to avoid the shining marks on the
dark colour garments. Lights are perpendicular to the whole finishing area so as to avoid any
kind of reflection. All irons are steam irons which get their steam from the boiler which is
placed on the washing department. Garments are pressed and send to the final checking from
where they move to the measurement checkers.
2.11.2 INSPECTION
The inspection is from the customers point of view. It has the main task of supervision of the
general appearance of the finished garment. Each checker has his own number sticker which
he put on the garment after checking it. Whenever defect is noticed they put white or blue
sticker and send it back to the alteration room or inline sewing machine. There should not be
any loose threads, oil/dirt stains, any kind of fabric defect, shade variation.
The stains are categorized as soft, hard and normal stains. For the normal stains, only water
and brush are used but in the staining guns there is a chemical which is known as
CYCLOHEXANE. Also soap is used for hard stains. However, many other types of
chemicals are also used in the spotting room.
The spotted area is then wiped with a clean fabricant absorbs the extra liquid and then dried.
After final inspection, the garments are sent for re pressing from where they are send back to
the line again.


44

2.12 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Packing is done according to buyers requirements
Packing is done mainly in three ways:
Solid Pack : solid colour and solid size
Solid colour assorted pack
Solid size assorted colour

The list pasted on the carton to be shipped contains the following:-
Style No.
PO
Colour/Colour code
Size
Quantity
Ratio of sizes
Dimensions
Address of the vendor and supplier both
Description
Carton No.
Buyer Name
Total No. of Cartons
Barcode

2.12.1 FOLDING
1. Folding of the garment is done as per buyer requirements.
2. Folding can be done in the following ways:-
Dead man fold
Hanger Pack
Flat pack
Stand up Pack
Crinkle tubular pack


45

1
ST
PROJECT

CALCULATION OF NON-PRODUCTIVE TIME IN
THE SEWING DEPARTMENT


46

3.1 .1 LITERATURE REVIEW
NPT in Industrial Engineering term is Non-Productive Time. Time that is spent by an
operator without producing any garment (standard minutes) like 'set up time' is called non-
productive time. In garment production Non-productive time is measured to analyze how
much standard time is lost due to machine down time.
A report is made by recording machine down time or lost time is called NPT Report. And
this is as essential MIS report where factory value each standard minute of its operators.
In other words, Non productive time is the time spent by the operator without producing any
standard minutes.
Lost time is recorded to show management a reason for low production in a particular day or
lower line efficiency. Here are few example of lost time.
Line setting
Machine Breakdown
Cutting not available
Stitching Quality issue
Cutting quality problem
Power failure
Change of Feeding Plan


47

3.1.2 AIM
The standard time converted by the operator into non productive time becomes an obstacle in
the growth of the company. The top management should be aware of such problems and have
proper data. So, the main aim of the study is to collect the accurate data of the time wasted by
the operators in the line in order to make the management aware of the situation and to
understand the reason for the low production so that further steps can be taken in this
direction.
3.1.3 NEED
Sometimes, it is observed that besides the proper availability of manpower and machine in the
line, the line in unable to achieve its daily production target. And the floor in-charge or the
manager is unable to understand the reason for the same. The time wasted by the operator
directly leads to lower efficiency of the line. And lower efficiency leads to higher cost of
manufacturing. The time once wasted is over; there is no scope of recovering that time.
3.1.4 METHODOLOGY
There are two methods to calculate the Non Productive Time within a line:
1. Manual Method: This method included recording the Non-Productive time by
visual method. The person had to stand in the line with a NPTC sheet and
record each operators non-Productive time.
Tools:
a. NPTC sheet
b. Stopwatch

Limitations:
Inaccurate data
Impossible to cover more than 2-3 operators simultaneously
No proof regarding the authenticity of data.

2. Video recording Method: This method included the video recording of the
operators during their working hour.

Tools:
a. Video camera
b. Camera stand
c. Laptop
d. NPTC sheet

Limitations:
Requirements like camera and camera stand.

48

3.1.5 PROCESS
The second method was chosen for the study, it involved two steps:
a. Recording:
A camera was installed in the
line. It was placed at such an
angle so that it could cover
maximum operators at one
time [approx. 5 to 6
operators]. The camera
would do a continuous
recording for one hour in a
single stretch without pause.
The recording would give
each and every detail of the
activities of the operators
during that one hour.

Figure: 3.1.1

b. Analyzing:
Once the recording was done, the next step was to analyze the video. It was very time
consuming activity as each and every operator needed to be studied differently one by
one. So it used to take approximately more than six hours to study one complete video
recording.

Figure: 3.1.2
This format sheet is provided with the columns:
Start time

49

End time
Total time
Whenever an operator is observed engaged in any non productive activities like:
Waiting for work
Talking
Sitting Idle
Cutting not available
Absent from workplace
During the recording time if the operator was observed engaged in non productive activity, his
start time and end time was noted and the reason marked in front of it. At the end of one
operators study, total non productive time was calculated.Moreover, the output of all the
operators for the same one hour was also recorded, which gave the efficiency at which the
operator was working.
EXAMPLE
DATE 10.07.2014
Line no. 5
Style #6955
Time 1:45-2:45
Operation French Seam at Shoulder
Table: 3.1.1


50

Figure: 3.1.3


51

3.1.6 RESULTS OF THE PILOT RUN

At first the pilot run of the study was done to take the initial data of the study. The pilot run
was done by keeping one operator in view for one hour. This pilot run had the following
output.
This is the output for one hour for one operator.

TOTAL SAM ANALYSED 3600 SECONDS
TOTAL PRODUCTIVE TIME 1471 seconds
TOTAL NON PRODUCTIVE TIME 2129 seconds
Table: 3.1.2

Chart: 3.1.1

PRODUCTIVE TIME
41%
NON PRODUCTIVE
TIME
59%
TIME DIVISION


52

3.1.6.1 FURTHER DIVISION
REASONS TIME(SEC.) PERCENTAGE
WAITING FOR WORK 1413 39%
ABSENT FROM
WORKPLACE
582 16 %
IDLE 33 1 %
TALKING 101 3 %
Table: 3.1.3
TOTAL 2129 SECONDS
Non Productive time Percentage 59.13 %
Productive time Percentage 41
Table: 3.1.4
EXPECTED OUTPUT
(100%)
ACTUAL OUTPUT EFFICIENCY
158 32
Table: 3.1.5

Chart: 3.1.2

WAITING FOR
WORK
66%
ABSENT FROM
WORKPLACE
27%
IDLE
2%
TALKING
5%
NON PRODUCTIVE TIME DIVISION PER HOUR

53

3.1.7 FINAL STUDY

TOTAL SAM ANALYSED 1800 MINUTES
TOTAL NON PRODUCTIVE TIME 480.3 minutes
TOTAL PRODUCTIVE TIME 1319.7 minutes
Table: 3.1.6

Chart: 3.1.3

TOTAL NON
PRODUCTIVE TIME
27%
TOTAL PRODUCTIVE
TIME
73%
TIME DIVISION

54

3.1.7.1 FURTHER DIVISION

FACTORS TIME(SEC.) PERCENTAGE
WAITING FOR WORK 9511 33 %
ABSENT FROM
WORKPLACE
11322 39 %
IDLE 3930 14 %
TALKING 1183 4 %
REWORK 2867 10 %
Table: 3.1.7

Chart: 3.1.4

WAITING FOR WORK
33%
ABSENT FROM
WORKPLACE
39%
IDLE
14%
TALKING
4%
REWORK
10%
NON PRODUCTIVE TIME DIVISION

55

2
ND
PROJECT

INCREASING THE PRODUCTIVITY OF
STYLE #XYZ


56

3.2.1 AIM
To analyze the problems of the line feeding and increase the feeding as well as the output of
the style #XYZ upper panel.
3.2.2 PROBLEM
The production quantity of this particular style could not be delivered as per demands and
forecasts. The demand was to produce around 1200 pieces per day at the end of working
hours. However, due to various miscellaneous reasons and problems this production rate
could not be achieved. So we were asked to find out all the shortcomings in the flow of
materials from the beginning till the packing Section. The problems along with their reasons
were supposed to be reported to the factory head along with solutions to improve them on a
urgent basis.
3.2.3 ORDER QUANTITY

Fig : 3.2.1 Fig : 3.2.2 Fig : 3.2.3
SNOW WHITE BLACK JESTER RED
24,659 20,227 16,486

Table: 3.2.1

XS S M L XL TOTAL
SNOW
WHITE
1110 4935 6141 6278 6195 24659
BLACK 1041 3709 5354 5597 4573 20274
JESTER RED 933 2827 4407 4550 3769 16486

57

3.2.4 DEPARTMENT PROCESS FLOW

Figure: 3.2.4

ISSUE /RECEIVE
DEPARTMENT
WASHING
DEPARTMENT
CHECKING
DEPARTMENT
CUTTING
DEPARTMENT
SEWING
DEPARTMENT
QUALITY
DEPARTMENT
FINISHING
DEPARTMENT
PACKAGING
DEPARTMENT

58

3.2.5 PROCESSES
IR RECEIVAL
The fabric was received by this department from the vendor. The net fabric was sourced
earlier by the Merchandising section in the head office that passed it along the vendor to
complete the embroidery work on the net. After the embroidery was done, the bundle of fabric
was sent back to the company but to the production unit. The record of the amount of fabric
received by the company is kept in this department. The entry of all the challans is done
here as well.

Figure: 3.2.5
3.2.6 WASHING DEPARTMENT
The fabric received is then sent to the washing
department. During the process of embroidery, a
sheet is kept below the fabric to provide support for
the embroidery. This sheet is water soluble in nature.
To remove this water soluble sheet, the fabric had to
be washed before any work could be started.
WATER DIP
The sheets of fabric were kept dipped in water for
more than one hour.
Figure: 3.2.6
WASHING
After dipping the fabric in water, the fabric was washed in washing machines. No chemical
was used in the washing process.


59

HYDRO
The washed fabric is dried using the centrifugal force.

Figure: 3.2.7

UNRAVELING
After the washing of fabric, the fabric becomes
tangled in the machine. So now this fabric had to be
unravelled manually by the helpers.

Figure: Above 3.2.8
Figure: Left 3.2.9
LINE DRY
The fabric was put on the ropes for drying.
It had to be dried for more than one hour. The fabric had to be dried properly, if not than the
fabric would go in rejection.

60

Figure: 3.2.10
3.2.7 CHECKING DEPARTMENT
Once the fabric was dry, it was moved to the ground floor.
FABRIC CHECKING
The checkers would check the fabric for any
defects. The defected part was marked and would
not be sent for the bundling and ticketing.

Figure: 3.2.11

Figure: 3.2.12
SET MAKING
In this process, the sets of garments
were matched with one another i.e.
front, back and sleeve of a particular set.
The front and back embroidery was
slightly different and were done differently. So before being sent to cutting department, the
pieces had to be matched along with the sleeves. The sets of the garment were made and then
moved along.


61

3.2.8 CUTTING DEPARTMENT
CUTTING
The cutting was done with the hand scissors. As the lay spreading and cutting was not
possible for this style. A team of
two workers used to work on
cutting. The number of team was
changeable. It depended on the
situation, demand and the
availability of workers.

Figure: 3.2.13
TICKETING AND
BUNDELLING
A single man was assigned the job of ticketing
and another one for the bundling.

Figure: 3.2.14


62

3.2.9 SEWING DEPARTMENT
SEWING
In the beginning, the style was loaded in one
line only. The line was set with 19 machines
with the following operations:

Figure: 3.2.15

Figure: 3.2.16

63

3.2.10 PROBLEM AREAS IDENTIFIED
3.2.10.1 INSUFFICIENT SUPPLY OF FABRIC FROM VENDORS
As the fabric was net and the embroidery was done on it afterwards. So the embroidery work
was totally outsourced by the vendor i.e. TULIP APPARELS.
The average received fabric in the IR department was nearly 800-1000 pieces a day which
was not sufficient for the feeding of sewing line for the optimum number of pieces production
per day as per the demand.
3.2.10.2 CAPACITY OF WASHING DEPARTMENT
WASHING
The washing department had its limitations. It also had to wash pieces of other styles for the
feeding of finishing department. Other than the #6044 net, 4 styles were going on in the
washing department and the Style #XYZ was last in the priority list.
The output of the washing department was only 500-600 pieces a day.
LINE DRY
The line drying capacity was very low; as the lines could only hold 100-200 pieces at a time
at its full capacity.
3.2.10.3 LACK OF MANPOWER
As the processes like unravelling and line drying was labour intensive. The washing
department didnt have sufficient manpower for the same processes. These processes required
a continuous eight hour work of 4-5 helpers, but the department was not provided with even a
single full time helper for the work.
3.2.10.4 SET MAKING
According to the patterns the garment had 3 parts i.e. front, back and sleeves. The vendor was
ordered to supply all the three parts in the same sheet. But despite the given requirement the
vendor was not supplying the proper set sheets of the same size. The number of front, back
and sleeves were not even in the single sheet. This led to a problem of set matching for the
cutting department. Thereby, increasing the consumption time and reducing the output flow.

3.2.10.5 INTER-DEPARTMENT COMMUNICATION AND
REPONSIBILITY GAP
There was a communication as well as responsibility gap between all the departments due to
which the work suffered at a large scale. These gaps often led to conflicts and time delays.

64

Unravelling and Drying: According to the washing department, the work had to be
done by the IR department as it had no manpower. Meanwhile, according to IR
department, the same work had to be done by washing department only. This led to a
lot of confusion between the departments and as a result the pieces were stuck in the
middle.

Set making: According to the cutting department, it had to be done by the checkers
checking the fabric. According to checkers, it had to be done by another helper from
IR department. But according to IR department, it was totally the work of cutting
department.

3.2.10.6 LACK OF MANAGEMENT
The style was running for more than one and a half month and still these problems were
persistent in the process flow indicating that the management was not good enough. The
confusions between departments had to be sorted out and clarified for the smooth flow of
production.


65

3.2.11 SOLUTIONS
3.2.11.1 INCREASE IN VENDORS SUPPLY
The vendors were approached by the factory head himself Mr. Amit Tariyal and were asked
to increase the per day supply by each vendor. This approach brought an increase in the input
to IR department. The average IR receive was now of 2000-2500 pieces per day.

3.2.11.2 OVERTIME IN WASHING DEPARTMENT
The washing department was given the overtime and was asked to wash the fabric in the
overtime. After 13
th
august 2014, the department started a night shift especially for the
washing of Style #XYZ net fabrics. It immediately led to the increased output of washing
department.
New ropes were installed to increase the line dry capacity. The fabrics were hanged during the
night as well to dry out. So the flow speed was increased.

3.2.11.3 ALLOTMENT OF HELPERS
Permanent 4 helpers were assigned to the job of unravelling and line drying. These helpers
were continuously working on these two processes only without disturbance.

3.2.11.4 FIXING THE KEY RESPONSIBILITY AREAS
The communication and responsibility gap was fulfilled by fixing the KRAs. Now everyone
was told their job and their duties were fixed. This led to a lot easier work flow and less
wastage of time. The confusion between departments regarding their roles and works was
clarified. Everyone had a clear idea of work they were supposed to do.

3.2.11.5 CONSTANT FOLLOW UP:
A round the clock and continuous follow up at each and every level of process flow helped in
increasing the output at every stage.


66

3.2.12 RESULTS
We were made responsible for the input and output of the same style on 28
th

July, 2014. Here is the day by day before and after data of the input and output
BEFORE
DATE OUTPUT INPUT
23-JUN 150 110
24-JUN 325 475
25-JUN 385 220
26-JUN 430 330
27-JUN 495 505
28-JUN 550 530
30-JUN 520 386
1-JULY 160 380
2-JULY 502 362
3-JULY 498 498
4-JULY 338 338
5-JULY 110 408
7-JULY 480 680
8-JULY 600 520
9-JULY 750 474
10-JULY 620 793
11-JULY 510 354
12-JULY 0 190
14-JULY 290 221
15-JULY 450 459
16-JULY 405 380
17-JULY 391 262
18-JULY 370 455
19-JULY 400 478
21-JULY 490 616
22-JULY 520 448
23-JULY 430 635
24-JULY 505 392
25-JULY 515 544
26-JULY 440 607

TOTAL 12692 13050
AVERAGE 421 435
Table: 3.2.2


67

AFTER
DATE OUTPUT INPUT
28-JULY 615 424
29-JULY 435 604
30-JULY 605 587
31-JULY 350 292
1-AUG 490 544
2-AUG 505 611
4-AUG 445 503
5-AUG 670 924
6-AUG 710 666
7-AUG 870* 1277
8-AUG 880* 1352
9-AUG 900* 878
11-AUG 890* 935
12-AUG 800* 1104
13-AUG 522 641
14-AUG 565 1500
16-AUG 805 908
19-AUG 849 1635
20-AUG 901 1830
21-AUG 901 1702
22-AUG 1060 2071
23-AUG 1200 2350
25-AUG 1212 2299

TOTAL 17,180 25,637
AVERAGE 715 1.115
Table: 3.2.3

The output demand was 1200. But the output available for finishing was only 400-550 pieces
per day. However, after applying all the solutions in the identified problem areas, the
production was increased and the desired output level was achieved.


68

The Chart below represents a comparison of the output delivered before and after 28 July.

Chart: 3.2.1
The Chart below represents a comparison of the input delivered to the finishing department
before and after 28 July.

Chart: 3.2.2

615
1212
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
23-Jun 30-Jun 7-Jul 14-Jul 21-Jul 28-Jul 4-Aug 11-Aug 18-Aug 25-Aug
OUTPUT
424
1352
2350
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
23-Jun 30-Jun 7-Jul 14-Jul 21-Jul 28-Jul 4-Aug 11-Aug 18-Aug 25-Aug
INPUT

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3
RD
PROJECT

PREPARATION & INTRODUCTION
OF OPERATION BULLETIN SHEET
IN THE FINISHING DEPARTMENT


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3.3.1 LITERATURE REVIEW
An Operation Bulletin also called as OB is one of the primary IE tools. An OB helps to set a
production line with correct number of machines and manpower. This sheet is made on the
basis of calculations and sampling. It can also be described as a route sheet which shows a
sequence of operations one after the other, with the efficiency planned, with the output
planned, with the time allotted for each operation, with the type of machine, with any
folder/attachment, with the workplace allotted, etc.
Prior to making OB, we need to determine operation SMV, calculation of machine or manual
requirements, and the operation breakdown of process.
Steps involved in making an OB:
Step 1: Prepare an OB Format
Step 2: Collect correct sample
Step 3: Make operation breakdown for the sample
Step 4: Define machine required or helper needed for each operation
Step 5: Enter SMVs for each operation
Step 6: Calculate calculated production per hour
Step 7: Calculate number of machines or number of manual workers required
Step 8: Calculate estimated production per hour
Step 9: Calculate Machine Summary


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3.3.2 AIM
To prepare an Operation Bulletin Sheet for the Finishing Department based on conducting a
time study of the ongoing styles.
3.3.3 PROBLEM
The OB sheet for the stitching department was in use in the factory. Whenever a new style
was put into production the sewing department received an OB sheet along with the raw
material. This sheet was made by the sampling department which helped the production
manager to start the operation and set up the assembly line.
However, there was no such sheet for the finishing department. The work which was given to
the finishing department was carried out as per the instructions of floor manager only. There
were no pre set guidelines.
3.3.4 PROCESS
The Floor manager asked us to prepare an OB sheet for the finishing department so that works
could be carried out smoothly. For this we were first asked to study the ongoing styles in the
finishing section.
We started with 2 different styles; Style #ABC and Style #123.
We recorded the full process in which the work was carried out in the finishing department.
The recordings were made for at least an hour at a stretch. While doing the recording we
made it sure that we at least keep 5 to 6 workers in the frame so that a comparative study can
be done.
After doing the recordings, we went through the videos doing time study of every operator
individually. Then we made a comparison between different workers on the basis of number
of pieced they passed in the same time frame. While some of the workers passed as expected
some of them were very slow. The reason for this variation in output could be divided into
numerous sections.
But our concern was to come up with a minimal time for the passing of a piece; yet keeping in
mind the average workers.


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We were provided with the OB sheets for sewing departments that were already in use to
study them, to understand the formulas, to find out all the required informations, etc.

Figure: 3.3.1


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Figure: 3.3.2

Figure: 3.3.3


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Before starting to form the sheet, we need to decide the most important factors. All the crucial
factors needed in the finishing section. The Finishing department needs a different set of
criteria for the sheet.
Major differences between an OB sheet of sewing department and an OB sheet for finishing
department are as follows:
Most of the work in the sewing department is done on machines, whereas in the
Finishing department the work is mostly carried out by manual workers.
Other than ironing, we do not need machines for any process; and ironing as such do
not classify in the machine criteria.
There are no folder attachments required.
Similarities between the two departments are:
Both the sheets contain important descriptions like Style no.; Item no.; Description of
product; Date; Buyer; Order Quantity; Prepared by, etc.
Both of the sheets must contain Output at 75%; output at 100%; Minutes per day.
Total SAM value is also common in both of them.

After a thorough analysis of the above points, we developed our first draft of the OB sheet for
FINISHING Department.

Figure: 3.3.4

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The above sheet was asked to be modified by our mentor in the industry. After few
modifications we developed another draft of the sheet.

Figure: 3.3.4
This sheet was finalized for the format design. After the format was finalized it was now the
turn for approximate values for every operation. Generally, for the sewing department the
calculation for approx SAM Values for every operation was done by the IE department.
In this case too, the SAM values were first calculated by the IE Department. However, on
doing the time study of that same style in production phase, the values differed on large scale.
So, we were asked to do a detail study of different processes under finishing section of
different styles. This would help us to analyze and come up with a time frame for a particular
operation. Since, the company mainly dealt with garments involving embroidery, our main
aim was to find out what kind of embroidery took how much time for thread cutting.
We did the study of two different styles; let the names be Style #ABC and Style #123. While
Style #ABC had embroidery only on neck and shoulders; Style#123 had embroidery on full
front bodice surface. The time study showed a huge time difference only in thread cutting
operation.


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This table contains the comparison of time study of two different styles. The time indicated is
in seconds.
OPERATION STYLE #ABC STYLE #123
Thread Cutting 69.2 172
Initial Inspection 71 70.6
Ironing 94.4 131.6
Final Checking 75.6 39
Measurement 51.2 36
Table: 3.3.1

So, when the style involved embroidery and bead works more than the normal amount, the
time involved for thread cutting was also more. The table below explains the difference in
time of any operation as proposed by the IE cell and as observed through time study. This
contains the time of only Style #123 which had a lot of beads work. The time mentioned is in
seconds.
OPERATION IE CALCULATED TIME OBSERVED TIME
Thread cutting 54 172
Initial Inspection 36 70.6
Ironing 72 131.6
Final checking 38 39
Measurement 36 36
Table: 3.3.2

As clear from the table above, there was a huge time difference for the same operation
between the values based on calculation and actual performance. This was particularly in this
style because of the extra huge beads work. This brought us to a calculation that every style
with beads work or embroidery more than the normal amount would require an extra time
allowance in every finishing operation.

After all this discussions and observations made we were able to make an OB for a new style
and bring it into use while production phase.


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The OB sheet below is the one that was finally made and out to use.

Figure: 3.3.6


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4. BIBLOGRAPHY

www.vorne.com/solution/reduce-changeover-times.html
www.wikipedia.org/wiki/changeover
www.wikipedia.org/wiki/efficeincy
www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/09/4-how-to-calculateeffcency-of.html
www.leanproduction.com/smed.html


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APPENDIX
LIST OF INDEXES


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Index of Pictures in the report
FIGURE NO. DESCRIPTION
1.1 Process flow in the unit
2.1 Process flow of work in merchandising department
2.2 Fabric stored in storage rooms
2.3 Process flow of work in PPC Department
2.4 Flowchart depicting flow of work in spreading and cutting department
2.5 Marker spread over the laying of fabric ready to be cut
2.6 Another fabric spread on the cutting table
2.7 Flowchart depicting the hierarchy of sewing department
2.8 Picture showing the assembly line in work
2.9 Flowchart depicting the work during washing
2.10 Flowchart depicting the work in finishing dept.
3.1.1 Assembly line in work
3.1.2 Non-productive time calculation sheet
3.1.3 Filled Non-productive time calculation sheet
3.2.1 Product under study (Snow white)
3.2.2 Product under study(Black)
3.2.3 Product under study(Zester red)
3.2.4 Process flow of work between different departments
3.2.5 Bundles of fabric received by IR department from vendor
3.2.6 Bundles of fabric soaked in water
3.2.7 Fabric washed and dried
3.2.8 Unravelled fabric
3.2.9 Worker unravelling the fabric manually
3.2.10 Fabric hanged to line dry
3.2.11 Workers checking the fabric before sending for cutting
3.2.12 Zoom in view showing the embroidery on fabric
3.2.13 Cutting of fabric
3.2.14 Workers ticketing the cut pieces
3.2.15 & 3.2.16 Sewing of the product in process
3.3.1 Operation bulletin sheet of sewing department
3.3.2 & 3.3.3 Zoom in view of top & bottom of OB Sheet
3.3.4 First Draft of OB Sheet of finishing department

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3.3.5 Second & final draft of OB sheet of finishing department
3.3.6 Excel sheet showing OB Sheet with correct values


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Index of Tables in the report
TABLE NO. DESCRIPTION
2.1 List of Goods sourced by sourcing department from the respective countries
2.2 Specimen of Operation Bulletin Sheet
2.3 Format of hourly Production Sheet
2.4 Format of sheet used for maintaining Feeding logs
2.5 Complete Format of Hourly Production Sheet
2.6 List of machine type and % allowance allowed
2.7 List of manpower of sewing department
2.8 Format of AQL sheet used in quality department
2.9 Format of Hourly production report maintained by Quality controller
2.10 Format of table to maintain inventory for a day per hour
3.1.1 Recorded data of one operator
3.1.2 Table with initial recording data of one operator
3.1.3 Further division of recorded data
3.1.4 Table showing the divided % of productive and non productive time
3.1.5 Efficiency calculated of the operator
3.1.6 Division of Total SAM analyzed
3.1.7 Further division of final recorded data
3.2.1 Table showing order quantity of different sizes in different colour of style #XYZ
3.2.2 Recorded data of output and input values of style #XYZ before 28
th
July
3.2.3 Recorded data of output and input values of style #XYZ after 28
th
July
3.3.1 Comparison of time study of finishing processes of two different styles
3.3.2
Comparison of IE Calculated time and observed time of same processes in the same
style


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Index of Charts in the report
CHART NO. DESCRIPTION
3.1.1 Time division of one operator in one hour
3.1.2 Further division of Non productive time of one hour
3.1.3 Time division for 1800 SAMs
3.1.4 Further division of non productive time
3.2.1 Comparison of output delivered before and after 28
th
July
3.2.2 Comparison of input received before and after 28
th
July

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Apparel Internship at B.L. International, Noida.

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