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Mod Instructions

First, clear a place to work and plug in your soldering iron


so it will be heating up. Now remove the battery cover and
the battery. Remove the four screws and the rear plate.
Remove the black plastic circuit board insulator and now
you see the circuit board. Use this photo to unsolder the old
parts from the board. Remember, the parts like it where
they are so do a good job soaking up the old solder before
you attempt to pull them out. For Soldering/De-soldering
tips, scan down to the end of this document.

Now remove the screw to the circuit board and flip the
board over to remove these fourteen parts.







Heres what the board should look like once the old parts
are removed.






Your part collection should consist of six capacitors, two
transistors, three diodes, and three resistors. You also
should have pulled the red & white wire from pin 2 of the
board.






Now its time to repopulate the board as shown.
Remember to pull the red and white wire from the circuit
board and solder it to the negative side of where the diode
used to be. The arrow on the board points to the negative
side.





When youre done soldering it should look like this.








Now look down under the main circuit board and you will
see a mini circuit board with a single screw holding it in
place.










Unscrew it and pull the mini board up, and screw it into the
screw hole for the main circuit board ~ that way it will be
accessible and you can desolder it.


Unsolder it, remove the screw, and pull out the LED.




As you are holding the New Led you will notice that one
lead is longer than the other ~ thats the positive side. It
goes in the hole that is closest to the wires, right above
where it says PIN on the bottom of the mini board. Now
slide the Led into place, leaving around 3/16
ths
of an inch
clearance between the board and the glass.



After youve bent the leads, rescrew it and resolder it.


When its done trim the lead ends and screw it back where you originally
removed it. If the Led doesnt work its usually a bad battery, or the polarity
is backwards; which means desoldering it and turning it around.
Its finally time to remove that old Fet switch. First remove
the foam. If youre careful it will come out in one piece, but
since its not going back in, you may not care.






Now desolder the switch. Theyre worth money so you may
want to touch the iron to each point & remove the wires.




Youll need either a or 19 mm socket ~ an open end
wrench, pliers, or vice grip will also work in a pinch.





Now its time to mount the 3PDT True Bypass Switch.






The orientation is correct so long as the contact points are
horizontal ~ theres no up or downside. Youll want to
refer to this photo for pin orientation.












First make sure the input & output jacks are turned so that
the yellow and white wires are closest to the switch. Now
locate the Yellow wire on the input jack and cut it just
enough where it will reach pin 4 of the bypass switch.






Locate the White wire on the output jack and cut it so that
it will reach pin 5 of the bypass switch.











When youre done it should look like this.











Take the Yellow wire from the board and connect it to pin
1 of the bypass switch. Now take the White wire from the
board and connect it to pin 2 of the bypass switch. When
youre done it should look like this.










Now use a piece of wire or lead and jumper (connect)
together pins 7 & 8. When youre done it should look like
this.










Now take the red & white wire you soldered to the board
and solder the other end to pin 3 of the bypass switch.
Then take the black wire you desoldered from the old Fet
switch and and solder it to pin 6 of the bypass switch.
When youre all done it should look like this.

When its all put back together there is just enough room
for the battery.




If the rear plate doesnt want to fit because its running into
the switch, just loosen the nut on the switch and reposition
it until it fits. Another way to make it fit is simply to bend
the fins of the back plate slightly and it will go on then.
Below, please find a section on troubleshooting and
soldering tips.























Troubleshooting

There are several common things that can happen to make
your mod experience a bit more fun than youd planned.
When you get no sound or there is something wrong with
the sound the most common problems are:

1. A missed solder joint
2. A poorly soldered joint
3. A crossover soldered joint
4. The battery is bad
5. The battery plug is loose
6. The chip is bad (rare, but it happens)
7. The chip cradle was installed wrong
8. One of the wires broke

Any of these problems are easily solvable so dont sweat it.
The case of a problem solder joint requires that you
carefully re-examine the rear of the circuit board. A missed
joint is easy to spot and the repair is obvious. A poorly
soldered joint requires a little closer examination, but is just
as simple to remedy once you have located the bad joint. A
crossover joint means that you have inadvertently linked
one solder joint with another. Important note: some joints
are supposed to be linked, so use these photos as a guide in
order to be certain. If thats the case, de-solder the joint
and re-solder it correctly.





A power problem is easier still. Simply remove the battery
and test it in anything you know is good. As for the battery
terminal being loose, just squeeze together it using either
your fingers or a pair of pliers.

The quickest way to know if you have a bad chip (which is
rare) is to put the old TA7558P chip that you removed into
the cradle. If the chip cradle is improperly installed you
can know by noting the position on the circuit board.
Unless it is all the way down and flush with the board, it
may not be making contact with one or more of the contact
points. No sweat, just de-solder it and push it down and
solder it again ~ problem solved.

If one of the wires breaks anywhere on the pedal it wont
work until it is re-soldered. This is a simple matter of
examining the pedal, gently pulling on the wires until the
broken one is found, and then de-soldering the place where
it was and re-soldering it again. Remember to use the
photos here as a guide. Also check the wires to the input
and output jacks.

If none of the above solves your problem then perhaps you
may want to consider shipping the pedal to me and Ill
repair it for a nominal fee.





How to De-solder
Tools Required:
Soldering Iron 30 to 40 watts is just right.
De-soldering Braid This is many thin strands of
copper that absorb the solder like a sponge.
To Begin: Place the braid against the solder joint and
apply the soldering iron to the braid, sandwiching the
braid between the joint and the iron.


Hold it there until you see the braid absorb the solder, and
when it does pull back the iron. If there is still more solder
on the joint repeat the process until you are reasonably sure
you can remove the old part. Also, as the braid fill with
solder youll need to trim the used piece with a scissors as
needed so youll have fresh piece for each joint.




How to Solder
Firstly place the iron against the solder joint. Allow
several seconds before applying the solder, when you
do apply it where the iron and the board meet in a V
pattern. When the solder melts it will fill the joint,
and when it does pull back the iron & solder. Make
sure the joint is completely covered like the joints
around it. Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip on a
damp cloth to remove excess flux.