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CONTENTS
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DEPARTMENTS
EDITORIAL A N D CIRCULATION OFFICES: 74-425 Highway 111, Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Area Code 714 346-8144. NATIONAL
ADVERTISING OFFICES: JE Publishers' Representative, 8732 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90069. Telephone Area Code 213 659-3810. Listed
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subscribers add $1 .Op U. S. currency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in this issue. Allow five weeks for change of address and send both new
and old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly. Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and at additional
mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1976 by DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all contents must be
secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs will not be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed and stamped envelope.
Desert/June 1976 3
Preserve Your Issues
For Travel Guides and
Reference in a
BINDER
A Peek r HIS MONTH'S cover features the
work of Charles L. Cochrane of Gar-
den Grove, California. Chuck, like
the other artists that have been featured
Publishers
will be on display in our Art Gallery
Magazine. An ideal gift for friends
who constantly refer to Desert as through June 15, subject to prior sale,
a source of information on all of and after that date will appear in the
the West. ^ . Pushmataha Gallery in Sedona, Arizona.
Postpaid O n l y
BE SURE TO STATE WHAT YEAR YOU WANT
PRINTED IN GOLD ON THE BINDER
Poke In all fairness to Chuck, the cover does
not bring across the same message as
the original, and the real thing has to be
seen to be appreciated. "Down the Canyon," our center spread, and other selected
Send Chech or money order to. paintings by Chuck are also on display.
TkUBL MAGAZINE To paraphrase the old rodeo announcer in the bronco busting event: "Comin'
Palm Desert. California 92260
outta chute No. 2, (Page 24), Chuck Cochrane." You don't have to tell this boy to
"stay a long time," because I know he's going to be riding the Western Art Scene
for quite a spell!
>•:.:>.
MAGAZINE
Dessert/June 1976
Send orders to
Box 1318,
Palm Desert, California 92260
Please add 25c for postage & handling
GHOST TOWN ALBUM by Lambert Florin. NEW BAJA HANDBOOK for the Off-Pavement ENCOUNTER WITH AN ANGRY GOD by Caro-
Over 200 photos. Fascinating pictorial accounts Motorist in Lower California by James T. Crow. beth Laird. A fascinating true story of the
of the gold mining towns of the Old West—and Discover the real Baja that lies beyond the edge author's marriages to anthropologist John Pea-
the men who worked them. Large format, 184 of the paved road, the unspoiled, out-of-the-way body Harrington, the "angry god," and to the
pages, profusely illustrated, hardcover, original- places unknown to the credit-card tourist. The remarkable Chemehuevi Indian, George Laird.
ly published at $12.50, new edition $4.95. author, drawing from his extensive travels in The appeal of this amazing memoir is so broad it
these parts, tells where to go, what to take has drawn rave reviews throughout the country
HOPI KACHINA DOLLS[With a Key to Their along, the common sense of getting ready. Illus- and is being hailed as a classic. Hardcover, 230
Identification], by Harold S. Colton. Kachina trated, paperback, 95 pages, $3.95. pages, $8.95.
dolls are neither toys nor idols, but aids to teach-
ing religion and tradition. This is a definitive SAN BERNARDINO MOUNTAIN TRAILS by MEXICO'S WEST COAST BEACHES by Al and
work on the subject, describing the meaning, the John W. Robinson. Easy one-day and more rug- Mildred Fischer is an up-to-date guide covering
making and the principal features of 266 varie- ged hiking trips into the historic mountains. The the El Golfo de Santa Clara to the end of the
ties of Kachina dolls. Line drawings of each 100 hiking trails are described in detail and illus- highway at Manzanillo. Excellent reference for
variety, plus color and b/w photos make it a trated so you will not get lost. Heavy paperback, the out-of-the-way beaches, in addition to the
complete guide to learn more of the richness of 257 pages, $5.95. popular resorts such as Mazatlan and Puerto
American Indian culture, paperback, 150 pages, Vallarta. Although traveling by motorhome, the
$3.45. Fischers also give suggestions for air, auto, ferry
and train travel as well. Paperback, well illus-
trated, 138 pages, $3.00.
BIRDS OF THE SOUTHWESTERN DESERTS
by Gusse Thomas Smith. Thirty-one of the most
commonly sighted birds of the Southwest are de- GOLDEN CHIAby Harrison Doyle. This book il-
scribed and illustrated in 4-color artist drawings. lustrates the great difference between the high
Heavy paperback, 68 pages, $3.95. desert chia, and the Mexican variety presently
sold in the health food stores. It identifies the
BACK ROADS OF CALIFORNIA by Earl Thol- energy-factor, a little-known trace mineral found
lander and the Editors of Sunset Books. Early only in the high desert seeds. Also includes a
stagecoach routes, missions, remote canyons, section of vitamins, minerals, proteins, en-
old prospector cabins, mines, cemeteries, etc., zymes, etc., needed for good nutrition. Referred
are visited as the author travels and sketches the to as "the only reference book in America on this
California Backroads. Through maps and notes, ancient Indian energy food." 100 pages, illus-
the traveler is invited to get off the freeways and trated, Paperback, $4.75; Cloth Cover, $7.75.
see the rural and country lanes throughout the
state. Hardcover, large format, unusually beau-
tiful illustrations, 207 pages, $10.95.
GOLD RUSHES AND MINING CAMPS OF THE
EARLY AMERICAN WEST by Vardis Fisher
and Opal Laurel Holmes. Few are better
prepared than Vardis Fisher to write of the gold
rushes and mining camps of the West. He brings
together all the men and women, all the fascinat-
ing ingredients, all the violent contrasts which
go to make up one of the most enthralling chap-
ters in American history. 300 illustrations from
photographs. Large format, hardcover, boxed,
466 pages, $17.95.
SUCCESSFUL COIN HUNTING by Charles L. NEVADA GHOST TOWNS AND MINING MINES OF THE MOJAVE by Ron and Peggy
Garrett. An informative study of coin hunting, CAMPS by Stanley W. Paher. Covering all of Miller covers the numerous mining districts run-
this is a complete guide on where to search, Nevada's 17 counties, Paher fias documented ning across the upper Mojave Desert from Tropi-
metal detector selection and use, digging tools 575 mining camps, many of which have been co, west of the town of Mojave, to Mountain
and accessories, how to dig and the care and erased from the earth. The book contains the Pass, a little west of the Nevada border. Paper-
handling of coins. A classic book in the field. 181 greatest and most complete collection of historic back, 67 pages, $2.50.
pages, paperback, $5.00. photographs of Nevada ever published. This,
coupled with his excellent writing and map, DESERT, The American Southwest by Ruth
TALES OF THE SUPERSTITIONS, The Origins creates a book of lasting value. Large format, Kirk. Combining her knowledge of the physical
oi The Lost Dutchman Legend by Robert Blair. 700 photographs, hardcover, 492 pages, $15.00 characteristics of the land, and man's relation to
An intriguing and well documented account of the desert from the prehistoric past to the prob-
the fabulous Lost Dutchman, the author turns up BAJA CALIFORNIA GUIDEBOOK by Walt able future, with her photographer's eye and her
new clues and signatures which will prove to be Wheelock and Howard E. Gulick, formerly Ger- enthusiasm for a strange and beautiful
both a setback and a stimulus to the search for hard and Gulick's Lower California Guidebook. country, the result of Ruth Kirk's work is an ex-
the legendary mine. Paperback, 175 pages, This totally revised fifth edition is up-to-the-min- traordinarily perceptive account of the living
$4.95. ute for the Transpeninsular paved highway, with desert. Highly recommended. Hardcover, beau-
new detailed mileages and descriptive text. Cor- tifully illustrated, 334 pages, $10.00.
TO HELL ON WHEELS by Alan H. Siebert. A rections and additions are shown for the many
must for every desert traveler, this is not just side roads, ORV routes, trails and little-known ROADSIDE GEOLOGY of U.S. Interstate 80 Be-
another survival book, it is a manual of mobility byways to the desert, mountain, beach and bay tween Salt Lake City and San Francisco. Written
for the recreational vehicle drive who is looking recesses. Folding route maps are in color and for the layman, text paragraphs are keyed to
for something more than the organized camp- newly revised for current accuracy. Indispensa- colorful maps so that specific features can be
ground. Highly recommended for both the new- ble reference guide, hardcover, $10.50. studies and identified. Scenic attractions,
comer and old-timers. Paperback, 64 pages, famous mining areas and rockhounding areas
well illustrated, $2.95. BOOK OF CACTUS by Harry C. Lawson. are included as well as a reference page for fur-
Written for the amateur, this book tells how to ther reading, a geologic time scale in color and
plant, care for and identify cactus found in the an extensive glossary of terms. Large format,
THE LIFE OF THE DESERT by Ann and Myron West. The 36 pages contain 409 small photo-
Sutton. This fascinating volume explains all the slick paperback, $3.00.
graphs and descriptions of the plants. Paper-
vital inter-relationships that exist between the back, $2.00.
living things and the physical environment of TOP BOTTLES U.S.A. by Art and Jewel Umber-
our vast desert regions. More than 100 illustra- ger. The discovery of a rare old bottle opens up a
tions in full color. Helpful appendices contain new understanding of life at an earlier period. A
comprehensive index and glossary. Special fea- collection of old medicine bottles takes one back
tues on endangered species, lizards and poison- to a slower, less complicated life-style. A time
ous animals. Hardcover, 232 pages, profusely II-1 when a concoction of aromatic bitters could cure
lustrated, $5.50. almost anything. The authors have an expertise
in their field that cannot be challenged. Illustrat-
ed, paperback, $4.50.
California /
• ; Camps/
Desert/June 1976
A really beautiful gift, or addition to
your library, the book is a horizontal
8V2XH format, 154 pages, 74 etchings in
duotone, 22 paintings and 2 aquatints in
generations to force the Indians to be-
come imitation white farmers, assuming
that a few shovels and hoes and bags of
I
At last an All New completely illustrated
| manual of Desert Mobility. The Baja Boon-
seeds, together with a few acres of mar-
lockers Bible "TO HELL ON WHEELS".
full color and 14 photographs. Cloth ginal land, would make the Indians self- $2.95 Postpaid by Alan H. Sieberr
bound, boxed, $17.95. supporting and solve the "Indian prob-
California residents add 6 % Tax
BROWN BURRO PRESS, Box 2863 ( D M ) , Pasadena, Co. 91105
lem."
One of the underlying themes in the
breaking of treaties with Indians was the BACKPACKING
"vanishing red m a n " theory, the strong-
ly held belief that the Indians would soon
EQUIPMENT
disappear completely. In that case they A Consumer Guide
would have no need for the lands. But to-
day the Indian population is growing by the Editors of
rapidly, and articulate and determined BACKPACKER
tribal leaders are at last demanding their magazine
due.
This book gives us a better under-
FORKED TONGUES standing of the unequal struggle of na-
AND BROKEN TREATIES tive against immigrant while our nation
Edited by Donald E. Worcester was being explored and settled. It also Now available: A consumer's guide to
gives promise that a new century of hope buying backpacking gear, with evalua-
tions of 364 models and brands of equip-
The subject of broken Indian treaties has begun for the American Indian. ment—all in one book.
is a story of whittling down the Indians' Profusely illustrated with excellent • BACKPACKS Detailed specifications
once vast holdings; every time Indian photographs, chapters cover the tribes of of 54 backpacks with comparative ratings.
lands were found to be valuable, either the Choctaws, Cherokees, Creeks, A valuable shopping guide.
for their fertility or mineral deposits, the Southern Cheyennes, Comanches, Teton • SLEEPING BAGS Some famous
Indians were cajoled, for their own good, mountaineers know things about sleeping
Sioux, Apaches and Eastern Pueblos.
bags that can save you half the price of
into relinquishing those lands. In the Hardcover, 494 pages, $9.95. goose-down sleeping bags—and give you
past two decades Indian treaties have better quality as well. Here are the com-
gained considerable importance, for parative results on 60 goose, duck and
* * * * * polyester sleeping bags.
various tribes have successfully brought
LOST MINES AN£> TREASURES
suit against the government for compen- OF THE SOUTHWEST • TENTS Some 46 leading brands and
by Jimmie Busher 200 stories 200 maps models of summer and winter tents were
sation for lands taken from them il- Calif Ariz Nev Utah Colo N.Mex Tex Okla put through the paces—in rains, winds
Fantastic New Book Wonderful G ift
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Treasure Book Guides Box 368
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Among the SO brands of boots we evalu-
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• FREEZE-DRIED D I N N E R S You c a u l
New revised editions of MEXICO Guide tell by the labels which of these dinners
and BAJA CALIFORNIA Guide by Cliff are disgustingly unpalatable and which
are the gourmet feasts. But you can buy
Cross. All-new, enlarged and updated. with assurance by using this guide.
MEXICO Guide contains 210 maps, 675
photos; BAJA Guide includes new
Transpeninsula Highway and gas avail- SAVINGS GUARANTEED
If you do not believe this book
able in Mexico; 60 maps, 450 photos. will save you at least $25 on
$4.95 each. your purchases, send your copy
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full purchase price will be re-
NOW funded.
IN
Yes, please send my copy(ies) of BACK-
STOCK PACKING EQUIPMENT: A Consumers Guide,
by the editors of BACKPACKER magazine, at
$4.95 plus $.50 mailing costs. Enclosed $
Order from (Do not send cash)
Magazine Name
Utah's Montezu
Montezuma
Canyon has
many large
natural caves in
its slickrock
walls.
Some of these
have been used
by ranchers as
barns or even
dwellings.
10 Desert/June 1976
The road
that travels the
upper 30 miles of
Montezuma
Canyon twice
fords the creek.
Both crossings
are safe during
normal water
flow. This ford
has a solid rock
bottom and a
series of
picturesque
cascades just
downstream.
ma Canyon
phy of this fascinating canyon system The canyon hosts a rich variety of
by F.A.BARNES
for the storage of baled hay. A few were According to Dr. Matheny, 816 sites Since 1969, the Brigham Young Uni-
enclosed for human habitation. One of have now been located within Monte- versity Field School of Archeology has
these is close beside the road that travels zuma Canyon, including 22 villages made several excavations in Montezu-
the canyon length. A traditional wooden within the upper 40 miles. One site, ma Canyon. One of special interest to
privy still stands not far from the door. named Montezuma Village, contained 91 travelers is located within a few yards of
Toward the lower end of the canyon, structures and occupied a mile of the the canyon road about 22 miles from
the canyon road ends at an east-west canyon floor. Archeologists now think •Monticello. Work here extended over
road that goes from U.S. 163 to Hoven- that during its period of occupancy, several years, but was suspended in
weep National Monument. At this Montezuma Canyon may have been the 1972. At that time, one of the three kivas
junction, Hatch Trading Post stands in a most densely populated area in what is at the site, now called Three Kiva Pue-
sheltering grove of trees, serving both now Utah. blo, was reconstructed and stabilized for
the traveling public and the Navajo In- BYU has established a field school the study and appreciation of Montezu-
dians on their reservation, which begins base in the canyon about 25 miles from ma Canyon's few visitors.
just to the north of the trading post. The Monticello. The canyon road goes In addition to the three kivas, only one
last 20 miles of Montezuma Canyon is through this temporary settlement in its of which was reconstructed, the site had
roadless and within the reservation. shady grove of cottonwoods, and during 14 rooms, an elongated "turkey r u n " of
The prehistoric human occupation of the summer months industrious archeo- rock slabs, and other associated utility
Montezuma Canyon is probably its most logy students always welcome interested structures. The site was occupied from
fascinating aspect. The existence of travelers who stop by to learn about their about 800 A D . to 1300 A.D., in three
ruins in the general region was initially work. periods separated by vacancies. Each oc-
noted by the Dominguez-Escalante ex- Prehistoric Anasazi Indians occupied cupancy built new structures on top of
pedition, but the first archeological re- Montezuma Canyon at about the same the older remnants, but sometimes re-
connaissance of Montezuma Canyon was time as other better known sites at Mesa modeled and improved older structures
not made until 1876, with the first Verde, Lowry, Hovenweep and Grand that were still standing.
written reports appearing in 1910. Gulch. Excavations have established The pueblo's occupants obtained
A systematic scientific survey of the that Montezuma Canyon was occupied everything they needed from the canyon
upper canyon was begun in 1960 by Dr. from the late Basketmaker time, about and its rimlands. Their food was local
R. T. Matheny, then a graduate student 500 A.D., to the Pueblo III period, about game, domesticated turkeys, corn, beans
of Brigham Young University, and now 1300 A.D., a total span of some 800 and squash, and probably foraged ber-
the director of the Field School of Arche- years. Then, as elsewhere, the Anasazis ries and pinyon nuts. Water and clay for
ology of that university. Since 1969, Dr. mysteriously faded away, with their des- pottery came from nearby Montezuma
Matheny, his associates and a number of cendants probabfy becoming the modern Creek, and hard stones for agricultural
BYU students and graduates have been Pueblo Indians of Arizona and New tools and chipped points were readily
continuing the work he started by Mexico. Theorists have suggested sever- available. The pueblo dwellers also had
surveying, excavating and reconstruct- al possible reasons for this mass migra- domestic dogs for companionship and
ing the numerous archeological sites tion, including drought, disease and no- hunting but, unlike elsewhere, they ap-
found in the canyon. madic raiders. parently did not use the dogs for food.
12
Desert/June 1S7fi
FULL SERVICE REALTY
Ph. (602)457-3908
When the largest, most recent kiva research into the Anasazi culture, in
BIG CHIEF CURIOS
Silver Chokers with Five
was reconstructed, every effort was Montezuma Canyon and elsewhere with-
Turquoise—$5.95 each
made to reproduce the original struc- in Utah and adjoining states. It is accu- Hand-made Indian Turquoise Jewelry
ture. Thus, visitors can now climb down mulating valuable anthropological know-
216 South Canal Downtown Carlsbad
a wooden ladder into the dimly lit room ledge, and also contributing to public
through its only entry, a hole in its roof. appreciation of early Amarind cultures.
This kiva is especially interesting in that Despite its remote location, Monte-
it was used during the period when such zuma Canyon is easy to visit. From over-
structures were phasing from ordinary night facilities in Monticello or Blanding,
domestic use, to exclusive ceremonial it is easy to take one-day or longer tours
use. This kiva, according to the evidence into the upper reaches of the canyon.
found, was used for both, even though it There is so much to see and explore
had in its floor a "sipapu," or doorway there —ruins, old ranches, Jeep trails,
into the underworld. These were of deep side canyons and desert-canyon natural
religious and philosophical significance beauty—that weeks could be spent.
to the Anasazis, and are even yet to The road that travels the canyon is
some Indians. gravel or graded dirt the whole way, and
The canyon's other numerous archeo- normally passable to highway vehicles,
logical sites are of less interest to travel- but two stream fords could be a problem
ers, and most can be reached only by if the water flow is high from recent rain.
off-road vehicle or on foot. Many are lo- In such case, two-wheel-drive vehicles
cated within the canyon, on its floor or should not attempt the fords, and even
rocky ledges. Others are short distances four-wheel-drive vehicles should check
up side canyons. Visitors to remote and the water depth and proceed cautiously,
historic Montezuma Canyon must bear if at all.
in mind that all archeological structures The best seasons for visiting Monte-
and artifacts are protected by both state zuma Canyon are spring or autumn.
and federal antiquities laws. These laws Then, the weather is moderate and the
strictly forbid collecting, digging or de- canyon floor is colorful with seasonal
facement of all historic and prehistoric wildflowers. Early spring and late sum- KEENE ENGINEERING, Inc. Dept. D
9330 Corbin Avenue
remnants. mer showers always assure such floral Northridge, CA 91324
Q Send me your FREE 1976 Catalog
Only authorized, accredited research- displays. • Enclosed is $7.95. Send me your
240 page "Dredging For Gold,"
ers, such as the BYU field school team, But whenever this unique canyon is the book that tells everything
about underwater gold-dredging.
are permitted to distrub sites such as visited, those driving its length are as-
those in Montezuma Canyon, and to sured an unforgettable sampling of west- Name
remove artifacts for study. The BYU ern desert-canyon natural and human Address
Desert/June 1976 13
jfl
W IME WAS when the town of Tecate, Mexico's northwesternmost state takes
4 just across the frontier in Baja Cali- one into country roughly comparable to
• fornia, was a gathering place of ban- southern California as it was before the
dits. The Gaskill brothers drove off a 1940s; following the dirt roads and the
band of Tecate-based outlaws in a cele- Jeep trails will bring one into a land even
brated gunfight at Campo in 1875, and further removed in time.
the little border settlement knew its Near Tecate there is one such dirt
share of cattle thieves as well. Rustlers road, short in length and, in dry weather
made frequent sorties through San at least, passable in a conventional auto-
Diego's backcountry, then returned to mobile. This is the back road to Valle de
Tecate and the blue mountains of Mexico las Palmas, or "Valley of the Palms," a
across the line. small agricultural community on the Te-
Today, a century later, things have cate-Ensenada highway. This byway
changed. The sprawling cities have be- leaves paved Mexican Highway 2 (the
come centers of unrest, while the hinter- Tecate-Tijuana highway) six and six-
land is serene and inviting. Tecate, in tenths miles west of Tecate's central
fact, has developed into one of the most plaza. As you drive along Highway 2
pleasant of the Mexican border towns. watch for the tracks of the Tijuana and
Located about 50 miles southeast of San Tecate Railroad (known after it enters
Diego, it is small, quiet and totally unlike the United States as the San Diego and
Tijuana, which seems to combine the Arizona Eastern). Route 2 crosses the
most strident qualities of both the United railway via an overpass six and two-
States and Mexico. The town is, in addi- tenths miles west of Tecate. Four-tenths
tion, a doorway to the scenic pleasures of of a mile beyond the overpass the un-
Lower California, the "forgotten penin- marked road to Valley de las Palmas
sula" of bright mountains, deserts, forks left (south) from the pavement.
beaches and bays. Americans often From this point over 12 miles of back-
complain about what has happened to country lie ahead before the paved Te-
parts of Upper California, wishing they cate-Ensenada highway (Highway 3,
could have seen the state as it was before completed in 1961) is gained at Valley de
freeways, suburbia, megalopolis and las Palmas.
"managed" natural resources. Throughout its length the road—
by RICHARD BLOOMQUIST Below the border in Baja California it which was once the main route between
is still possible, in a sense, to do just Tecate and Ensenada—closely follows
this. Traveling the paved highways in the contours of the land. It therefore
14 Desert/June 1976
The Ramirez Ranch at thQ north end ; granite outcrops, small val- trie right. A tiny white building can be
of the valley. There is an adobe ruin leys drained by intermittent streams. seen below the summit; field glasses re-
along the road near this rancho. Sugar bush, buckwheat and sage veal that it is surmounted by a cross.
abound on the sunny slopes. A few live The butte marks the beginning of the
oaks dapple the landscape, and scatter- valley proper, which is occupied by a
ings of sycamores fringe the arroyos; variety of farms and ranches. Dairy cat-
blends well with the terrain and does not here and there a bright cottonwood is tle, beef cattle, horses, olive groves, irri-
seem a thing apart. (I must mention two conspicucous along a creek bed. And gated fields protected by rows of tamar-
temporary drawbacks, however, On my yet, despite the similarities to the United isk trees —all are part of the pastoral
second trip to Valle de las Palmas in Oc- States, the countryside still has features scene. I also noted three adobe ruins
tober of 1975, a pipeline was being in- which identify it as a part of Mexico: the along the roadway. We cross the dry Rio
stalled along the edge of the road, and vaqueros — and even the small children — de las Palmas ("River of the Palms"),
what appeared to be a new road was un- sometimes seen herding cattle; the bur- then enter the town of Valle de las
der construction a short distance to the ros and other animals which can be en- Palmas, with its park, baseball field and
west not far from the Tecate-Tijuana countered on the roadway itself; the two schools. The settlement lacks a busi-
highway.) scattered adobes shaded by graceful ness district, but does contain a fair
After breaking away from the pave- pepper trees. number of houses laid out along dirt
ment our route descends a short grade Leaving the hilly terrain behind after a roads.
overlooking a dry creek bed. Beyond the brief downgrade, we enter an arm of the The Tecate-Ensenada highway rims
foot of the grade an abandoned adobe Valle de las Palmas ("Valley of the the town on the east. I eased onto the
shaded by pepper trees stands off to the Palms"), the broad basin which contains pavement and began the 18-mile drive
left; the place was occupied when I first the town of the same name. From here back to the border. The return trip was
came this way in 1969. After another until the settlement is reached some six far smoother and faster than the south-
mile we enter an attractive little valley miles ahead, the road is straight and ward journey had been, yet it lacked the
with the impressive Ranch El Carrizo level, but still rough over most of its intimacy of the more primitive route. For
("Re.ed Grass Ranch") at its far side. course. Soon we pass the picturesque all its twists and jolts, the dirt road to
The ranch buildings are enclosed by Rancho El Juncalito ("Little Patch of Valley of the Palms had offered some-
walls or fencing and shielded from the Rushes Ranch"), with its windmills and thing the paved highway could not—a
sun by\pepper and eucalyptus trees. A stone reservoir. Not far beyond the ranch lingering look at the still serene back-
metal gate set between red and white we draw even with a conical butte off to country of Baja California. •
pillars gives access to the grounds. Op-
posite the ranch a timeworn Automobile
Club of Southern California sign gives
mileages to Tecate (10), Valle de las
Palmas (10), and Ensenada (60). These
venerable diamond-shaped guideposts
have a certain nostalgia about them, es-
pecially now that they have become un-
common on the American side of the
border.
F:rom the valley of the Carrizo Ranch
there is a fine view northward to Tecate
Peak in the United States. This steep-
sided mountain topped by a fire lookout
tower is less than a mile from the inter-
national line. (Travelers wishing to loop
back to Highway 2—the Tecate-Tijuana
highway —may do so by turning right
[west] on a side road just before reaching
Rancho El Carrizo. This route strikes the
pavement after a little over three miles.)
Once past El Carrizo, the road climbs
for about one-half mile to another rancho
and a grove of olive trees. Then another
short uphill pull and we are atop a sun-
burned, mile-long flat with a view of the
Valle de las Palmas basin off to the
south. Physically, this country is cast in
the same mold as the region north of the
border: dry, chaparral-covered hills and The newer of the two schools in Valle de las Palmas, a small agricultural community
south of Tecate. Part of the valley of the same name is visible in background.
Desert/June 1976 15
by FREDS. COOK
. V
1
HE STORY of Carlsbad Caverns, in
1
southeastern New Mexico, has been Above:
told so often that it has become al- Crysta/ Spring
njiost a family byword. It is generally Dome, in
kiown that they were first discovered, at the Big Room.
least by white man, by a cowboy, Jim Right:
White, who was attracted to the site by "The Christmas
the flights of bats who painted a smoke- Tree" in
• • If
like cloud against the horizon as they New Cave.
"•iw
HALL'S CROSSING MARINA OFFERS: Gas and oil, live bait and lures, fishing gear, boat repair ed only by a light gate over the entrance.
facilities, cold beer, ICE, groceries, slips and buoys for rent. Overnight accommodations that This encouraged that peculiar type of
sleep two to eight persons. Write or call for reservations. At the general store: fresh milk, eggs,
dissolute human being known as the
butter, frozen meat, cold cuts and canned items for camping or picnicking. Take a boat trip.to
Rainbow Bridge in one day. 2, 3 and 4-day tours to various parts of the lake, camping and vandal to enter the cave and practice his
sleeping under the stars. Ferry service for travelers with light vehicles. All types of pleasure craft art. They managed to destroy many of
for rent, from 14-foot to houseboats. Airstrip is 4,000 feet with tiedown facilities available.
the natural beauties and to defile the
CARLSBAD
CAVERNS
Night and day fun awaits you when
you visit Carlsbad, New Mexico...
at the Caverns and the new Guadalupe
Mountains National Park.. .at the Living
Desert State Park where native
southwestern animals and 2,000
varieties of cacti live in a large mesa-
top setting.. .on our golf courses,
lighted tennis courts and at Lake
Carlsbad for water activities.. .at a
unique Western-Indian museum and our
many antique shops.. .at excellent hotel
and motel accommodations with fine GUADALUPE
food and lounge entertainment. NATIONAL
Desert/June 1976 19
Monq's
Volcanic
Wonderland photos by
Jerry
by MARY FRANCES STRONG
P
Strong OSSIBLY EVERYONE who has trav-
eled Highway 395 north to Reno has
noticed the Mono Craters in Pumice
Here, at the Valley south of Leevining, California.
southern end Their size and number make them hard
of a long chain to overlook. It is also quite possible that
of magmatic few of these highway travelers know
extrusions, is about the beautiful Inyo Crater Lakes
"Obsidian and the "Volcanic Wonderland" which
Dome." surround them.
Obsidian or Generally, we think of the Sierra Ne-
volcanic glass, vadas as a fine example of glaciation.
is a non- But here, on their eastern escarpment,,
crystalline volcanism has produced a number of
material fascinating geological formations. The
composed of Forestry Service has marked and provid-
minerals that ed access to many of these sites. From
cooled rapidly them, we can obtain an idea of the tre-
from the mendous forces which have been respon-
molten state. sible for many of our earth's landforms.
The same Happily, the Forest Service has also
mineral established several campgrounds among
composition, the stands of pine, fir and cedar in the
when cooling
:
• • • • • • • . • • . . . .
/395 $
Monds
S
Devil's 0
Punch- '"
bowl
Volcanic
Wonderland
Ld
Desert/June 1976
"Down the Canyon"
Oil, 24"x30"
WESTERN ART
COCHRAHl
OOTS
H E Sk
TROMTHEHi
A BRUS
Charles L.
Cochrane
A.I.C.A.
Editor's note: Using pure pigments 'M ALWAYS a little hesitant to talk humility that fourteenbroken bones,
and a distinctive style, Charles about myself or my paintings. I feel poverty and four battles in WWII can
Cochrane brings the Old West alive ! the message is on the canvas; if you teach a person. Anyway, on with some
on his canvases. Not liking the in- like it, you'll buy it and won't be sorry. If facts.
terview approach, Charles tells in the first person approach sounds a little To begin with, there was no " e " on
his own words how it came about. vain, let me assure you I have all the the end of my last name when I was born
24 Desert/June 1976
in the hill country of Missouri in 1923. It grandfathers made whiskey for medicine From this busy environment, we
was added legally when the "Cochran" and for sale; (3) all grandmothers and moved to St. Joseph, Missouri, the home
name became too popular in the local mothers were the backbone of the clan of the Pony Express and stamping
newspapers. As a pre-schooler, I firmly and the only true side of the law, and (5) grounds for J esse J ames and the
believed (1) men with guns and good, fast horses were more important Younger brothers. It was here that my
bloodhounds chased everybody; (2) all than Sunday clothes. father rebelled against all the quiet and
Desert/ June 1976 25
left us to chase some dream of his own.
My first paying job, as near as I can
remember, was weaning calves at a
dollar fifty a week, then riding them as
yearlings for entertainment. At age
fourteen, I went to work for a
construction company (stretching the
truth about my age). Then at fifteen I
joined up with a fight promoter and
boxed professionally, if you can call five
dollars a night "professional."
This kept me pretty busy until a local
Catholic priest decided this was no way
~::. .i. for a young man to grow up and made
arrangements for me to work out my
tuition at a Catholic high school. I will
always be grateful to those dedicated
teachers who taught me with kindness,
patience and, occasionally with their
fists, that there was a whole lot more to
life than what I seen up 'til then.
They also taught me the many facets of
honesty and human dignity.
When WWII started, I joined the
Marine Corps and served with the First
'Turning the Herd"
Oil, 30"x40" Marine Parachute Regiment and the
Third Amphibious Corps, serving
twenty-eight months overseas in the
'The Banditos" Oil, 24"x30" Courtesy Mr. & Mrs. Robert Lenski, Bel Air, Calif.
South and Central Pacific.
After the war, I returned to Missouri
to attend the Moran School of
Commercial Art and the Kansas City Art
Institute. In 1958 I moved to the West
Coast where I now devote all my time to
my family, my painting and a Cerman
Shepherd dog named "Marlene."
I recently completed a book for Mr.
Walter T. Foster's series of art books
entitled "Water and Weather." In
Arizona, my paintings are in galleries in
Sedona and Prescott. In California, you
can find them in San Diego, La Jolla,
Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Long
Beach, San Pedro, Morro Bay and
Palm Desert.
From the beginning, I have "signed"
my paintings in a rough print manner.
Not too long ago when a gallery asked
me to stylize my signature, I had to
refuse out of fairness to my early patrons
from all walks of life. This explains why a
youngster who was studying my
"The Trackers"
signature on a painting at one time asked Oil, 24"x30"
his mother, "How come he can paint,
but can't write?"
"Training the Buffalo Horse"
Oil, 24"x36"
A SQUIRREL
I
IKE SALT AND PEPPER, Abert's the end of his plume-like tail-balancer,
squirrel and the ponderosa pine go he's got it: curved nails on his feet for
together. How it came about that this good gripping and sure-footed traction,
especially handsome squirrel with the skeletal modifications for climbing and
fancy ear tassels selected this yellow jumping, the muscles specialized for the
pine for both home sweet home and work, an eye for accurate distance-
provider of provender, nobody knows. judging, and a marvelous sense of
But somewhere back in time the Abert balance.
clan set up housekeeping in the ponde- Strictly a daytime fellow, the Abert
rosas, and they have been enjoying the squirrel is an early riser, being up be-
trees' hospitality ever since. fore sunrise and at his day's affairs
Maybe the fact that the ponderosas of carried on by himself for himself, since,
the Southwest like a reasonable sort of as are most tree squirrels, he is solitary
environment themselves had something by nature. A typical day in the off-social
to do with it. Big, gorgeous pines that lift seasons, therefore, consists mainly in
their spire-shaped crowns over 200 feet dining, lolling around on a limb resting,
into the air, they are to be found growing building a new or refurbishing the old
in that cool dry transition zone that lies nest, and keeping an eye out for
between the pinyon-juniper belt of the marauding red-tailed hawks.
desert foothills and the Douglas fir for- Foodwise, the ponderosas do spread a
ests of the higher elevations. Under good table, offering a menu bound to
normal conditions, the ponderosas occur please their bucktoothed tenants. Being
in pure stands, their massive trunks mostly confined to these pines, as Bi-
perhaps measuring eight feet in di- ologist James Keith points out in his irn^
ameter, the bark of which is reddish portant study of the Aberts residing
brown to high yellow in color. The long around Flagstaff, Arizona, the squirrels
graceful needles grow two or three to a are highly dependent on them for food,
cluster. and have naturally developed ways of
Ponderosa cones, green until ripe, utilizing this good source during every
turn brown as they mature, and tucked season of the year.
under each cone scale are two seeds, Apparently considered choicest are
winged for riding the wind. When ready, the seeds, which the squirrels begin
the cones turn downward, the scales eating as early as May when the cones
spread apart and the seeds, freed at last, are developing. In the fall when the
are on their way. Borne by the wind, seeds have dispersed, they search the
they may travel a thousand feet from the ground for them. Unlike other squirrels being required to replenish its food re-
parent tree before landing, hopefully, on who accumulate piles of food, the Aberts serves before the next bumper crop is
a spot favorable for growth. Like the bury a single cone or seed in a shallow undertaken.
seed dispersal of all windborne plants, hole dug in a moist spot, covering it Seeds are not the only thing on the
the ponderosa's system is both chancey carefully. During the winter some of squirrel menu. Always to be had is a thin
and wasteful. Yet some of the seeds these are retrieved and eaten. Many are layer of inner bark on the twigs. Succu-
successfully make it to full tree maturity, not. Hence in his way the Abert is a kind lent, sweet and highly nutritious, it is
withstanding the ravages of time to boot of bushy-tailed conservationist, a planter eaten all year, and is indeed the main
— a tall one being perhaps 350-500 years of ponderosas of the future. Any seed source of food for the squirrels during
old. thus safely put underground and re- the winter months. It takes but a
Now running around some 200 feet up maining there is a definite plus particu- moment for the squirrel to cut off a small
such a tree is nothing for the Abert larly since as botanist C.A. Pearson twig and discard the needle cluster at its
squirrel number since, as is true of all found, the ponderosa only has a good end. Then, comfortably ensconced on a
his tribe, he is well-endowed with tree- cone crop about every three or four limb and holding the twig carefully be-
going equipment. Beginning with his years. It takes a lot out of a tree to tween his paws, he sits back and pro-
touch-news whiskers, all the way back to produce seeds, a period of recuperation ceeds to dine, first chewing off the tough
28 Desert/Juno 1Q7R
AND A TREE
Text and Illustration
by K. L. BOYNTON
©1976
her tails, she's ready to come down her- For detailed brochure, reservations or
exact departure times, write or call the
self now — to frolic off through the forest CANYONLANDS BY NIGHT office at:
with one of the "subordinates" — the SLICKROCK COUNTRY CAMPGROUND
squirrel she's had an eye on all the time. One-half mile north of Moab
Mailing address: P.O.Box 328D,
Gestation takes about 40 days, the Moab, Utah 84532
three to four youngsters arriving with (801) 259-5261
Canyon walls come to life under 40,000 WELTONB. WINN,
their eyes and ears shut up tight and watts of controlled illumination. General Manager
quite naked except for face whiskers. By
the time they are six weeks old they have
a decent pelage, their eyes are open and
their ears, which up to now have been
ANOTHER OUTSTANDING
draping about their faces, begin to stand FULL COLOR PRESENTATION
up Abert squirrel fashion. The seventh
week sees a big change and what with ON THE CULTURE OF
mushrooms and inner bark of twigs now
being added to their milk diet, the THE SOUTHWEST
squirrels grow fast, finally to be weaned
at about 10 weeks. Jewelry
By October or November, the young- Pottery
sters are on their own, each seeking that Baskets
particular ponderosa that seems to be Rugs
waiting for a brand new Abert squirre Kachinas
tenant. • Indian Art
Sandpain tings
RESTAURANT $7.95
Tombstone's Finest Dining Soft Cover
1880's Atmosphere
Order From
LUNCH - DINNER
SUNDAY SMORGASBORD
Visit Our Museum Bar
Corner 4th and Fremont Tombstone, Ariz.
Desert Magazine Book Shop
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
Please add 25 cents for postage & handling Calif, residents please add 6% state sales tax
An overall view
of one of the compartments
at Utah's Recapture Pocket.
32 Desert/June 1976
re
cket
by ALVIN S.REINER
Two spires
shoot skyward
as a yucca
tries to outgrow
a distant monolith.
The Pocket was formed, as the other The cliffs around the town of Bluff,
features in the region, by the actions of and on the way to Recapture, are of the
wind and water on the easily-erodable Bluff Sandstone member of the Morrison
rock formation. The various balanced Formation. Bluff Sandstone is white to
and table-like rocks are the result of the gray-brown, and thick or cross-bedded.
harder, and thus more durable shales It is impregnated with quartz aggre-
eroding more slowly than the soft gates, clay balls and mudstones.
sandstone layers beneath them. During my visits to the Pocket, I have
Desert/June 1976 33
U.S. HIGHWAY 163
TO BLAHDING
JECAPTURE
OCKET
ST. CHRISTOPHER'S
MISSIONN. 4. \.
LEGEND
PAVED ROADS
DIRT ROADS
WASHES
CLIFFS *"" ****
DISTANCE BETWEEN
XS.3CS POINTS X 1.5 X
At/IP 61
346-8113
MOTOR
LODGE
75-188 Highway 111, Indian Wells, California 92260
Stalwart
stone
sentinels
brace
THE DESERT'S for an *
MOST FAMOUS BISTRO approaching %
summer
346-2314 storm.
34 Desert/June 1976
As with any scenic area, the photogra- eyes peeled for a turnoff to the left. This
pher should take plenty of film. On my is the most critical turn, and it is easy to
first visit to Recapture Pocket, I was un- bypass if one is not observant. There is a [Now...
aware of the great beauty and the variety flat, fenced-off area on the left where an ' Good things \ W
of landforms I would find there, and con- exploratory oil well once stood. If you dip Iff' are happening at...
sequently ran out of film. into a wash shortly after making the
The best times to photograph the Poc-
ket, especially in the summer, are early
turn, you're headed in the right direc-
tion, and after another 1.5 miles you'll
Death Valley
morning and late afternoon. These times
of the day bring out the maximum tex-
ture of the stone surfaces, as well as
be at the Pocket.
A few words of caution: The road has
several blind curves and dips, so a speed
Junction
create a feeling of depth to the Pocket as not exceeding 25 m.p.h. is advisable. Stay at the historic
a whole. In the winter, the time of day AMARGOSA HOTEL
Since the road is dirt, and several
isn't as critical as the sun is never direct- washes are traversed, it might be wise to
ly overhead. This lovely 50-year-old hotel is
check the local weather report before
being restored. 20 rooms open
It is advisable to use an exposure heading to the Pocket. If you are in the year 'round. All carpeted. All
meter, and don't be surprised by an in- Pocket, and a storm starts to build up, it beautifully furnished. Electric
flated reading. If the exposure guide would be a good idea to head back to heat and air conditioning. Make
supplied with the film is employed, the Bluff, or you may have a longer than an- the Amargosa Hotel your head-
reading for snow or beach scenes should ticipated visit. quarters while in the Death
be used to avoid overexposure. For those who aren't adventurous, or I, Valley area.
Although considered an out-of-the- would prefer an interpretive guide to Re- You can now dine in the restor-
way place, Recapture Pocket can readily capture Pocket, as well as other points of ed DINING ROOM in the Hotel.
be reached in the family car. Just north A separate banquet facility is
interest, a leisurely tour, featuring a
of Bluff, a paved road heads east from available for groups.
hearty outdoor breakfast, can be arrang-
U.S. Highway 163, and passes St. Chris- Telephone Death Valley Junc-
ed by writing to, or inquiring at the tion #1 for information or reser-
topher's Episcopal Mission, at which Recapture Lodge in Bluff, Utah. vations.
point the road becomes graded dirt. Although not much larger than most
At the first fork, keep to the left. municipal parks, Recapture Pocket of- Visit Marta Becket's famous
Several small caves can be seen in the fers the serenity and aesthetics no city AMARGOSA OPERA HOUSE.
base of the nearby cliff at this juncture. engineer could incorporate into his plan. You've read about this beautiful
Continue for another two miles, passing So whether one intends to spend an and unique attraction in Desert
under a power line, until the road splits hour or two of browsing through the vis- and National Geographic. See
again. Keep to the right or you'll end up ual delights, or a whole day of explora- Marta Becket's program of
at the small oil field, which is visible at tion, Recapture Pocket is well worth a dance-mimes. See her fabulous
this point. About a mile later, keep your murals inside the Opera House. <
short side trip.
Performances Friday, Saturday
and Monday Through April.
Saturdays only in May, Septem-
ber. 8:15; doors open at 7:45.
Illi Telephone Death Valley Junc-
Vl^tion #8 for reservations. Tours!,
welcomed.
Desert/June 1976
Adventuring in
the Jacumbas by WALTER FORD
Above: Early day travelers rest at Mountain Springs. Old stone corrals may be seen
I S YOU wander through Southern
against foot of the hill in background. Old stage station is at right. Historical Collec-
jh California's Jacumba Mountains
tion Title Insurance & Trust Co., San Diego, California.
I I south of Highway 8 today, it's hard to
Footprints of a long vanished race found on what was once a muddy beach of reced- believe they were once a haven for cattle
ing Lake Cahuilla. Down through the centuries the forepart of each footprint has
rustlers, smugglers, bandits and out-
eroded to the degree that only the imprint of the large toe remains. The footprint
casts from Mexico. But the lawless ele-
shown on the right was approximately 8.8 inches long and 3.5 inches wide at the in-
ment eventually found other areas safer
step. The footprint shown on the left was slightly longer.
for their mode of living and with their
moving on the Jacumba region began to
take on an air of respectability. More and
more desert travelers are now discover-
ing the many recreational opportunities
it has to offer.
Extinct volcanoes, cave dwellings and
petroglyphs of a vanished race, an old-
time army post and stage station and in-
triguing lost treasure legends —all are
there for your enjoyment. But if you re-
quire only a place to escape the stress of
city living, Davies Valley should fill that
need. The only sounds that are likely to
disturb your slumbers are the faint hoot-
ing of owls and the barking of distant
coyotes.
A dirt road to Davies Valley leads to
the right from the highway to Calexico
2.5 miles east of Highway 8, then con-
36 \^,«-v_l/ • j n-T
linues about two miles into the valley. In
their Interim Critical Management Pro-
gram, the Bureau of Land Management
describes Davies Valley as " a scenic
valley containing good wildlife habitat,
unique vegetation and known archeolog-
gical values," which seems to apply
more correctly to adjacent Pinto Canyon.
The vegetation in Davies Valley consists
mainly of ocotillo and creosote plants
and if archeological values exist there
they are not visible to the untrained eye.
There is a small dry-lake bed near the
southern end of Davies Valley, deeply
fissured and partially ringed by mes-
quite and ironwood trees. Harry Phillips,
a mining engineer who owned some
tungsten claims in Davies Valley, told
me that about 30 years ago an oldtimer
at nearby Ocotillo claimed he remember-
ed when the lake was full of water and
well stocked with fish. Then an earth-
quake hit the area, causing the lake to
drain and the fish to perish. When first
heard the tale is likely to be classified as
just another " f i s h " story, but when Motorists gather near Mountain Springs in 7972 to dedicate the completion of a road
available facts and theories are consider- through Jacumba Mountains which opened the first through transportation route
ed the Ocotillo resident's account sounds between San Diego and Imperial Valley. Photo courtesy Historical Collection, Title
somewhat credible. Insurance Co., San Diego, California.
Henry E. Wilson, the perennial Peg- for freshwater clams and mussels. Von climb isn't difficult and when you reach
leg Mine hunter, told me there were Werlhof told me that they photographed the top there is an additional attraction
small fish in pools at Fish Springs when about 60 footprints of adults, adoles- of impressive views of the Yuha Desert
the present Salton Sea was a dry-lake cents, children and at least one dog. The and the mountains of Baja California.
bed, and prior to 1916 when they were footprints which were formed originally The road through Davies Valley makes
flooded out, fish could be found in pools by a cement-like mixture of water and a right turn to a streambed near the
along Fish Creek near the Imperial sand are now somewhat like brittle con- south end of the valley, continues ahead
County line. He believed the fish in both cretions. Von Werlhof said that many of about 150 feet, then makes a left turn to
areas evolved from Lake Cahuilla. But the footprints had been crushed by ve- the Mexican Border a few hundred feet
the Davies Valley lake's 1200-foot eleva- hicle travel through the area, so he will away. A locked cable across the stream-
tion rules out the possibility of it being not reveal its location until the site can bed that was installed by the Border Pa-
part of the ancient inland sea. be protected. trol marks the end of unauthorized ve-
However, geologists say that an un- There is evidence of violent volcanic hicle travel. Hikers bound for Pinto Can-
dergound flow could have supplied the action in the Jacumba Mountain area yon usually park their cars on the mesa
lake with water, and the Indian inhabit- which geologists believe occurred during south of the cable and begin their jour-
ants of the area could have stocked it the late Tertiary period, millions of years ney from there. The entrance to Pinto
with fish from nearby Lake Cahuilla, ago. Harold W. Fairbanks, a prominent Canyon begins approximately one-half
either directly or by trading with another geologist of the time, stated in "The mile to the west.
tribe of Dieguenos known as the Kamey- Report of the State Minerologist, 1893," Pinto Canyon consists of a boulder
aay. That tribe is believed to have lived that he found layers of bedded lava near- strewn wash bordered on both sides by
along the shores of Lake Cahuilla 500 ly 300 feet thick near the eastern slope of mountains rising to 2,000 or more feet.
years ago. During December, 1974, Jay Jacumba Valley. There is an interesting During the spring months of a season of
Von Werlhof, archeologistfor the Imper- example of a smaller geological distur- normal rainfall its wildflower display
ial Valley College Museum, and a group bance on a lava-covered mountain at the well justifies BLM's description of
of students made a discovery that tends south end of Davies Valley. No opening " u n i q u e v e g e t a t i o n . " Palm-dotted
to confirm that belief. or vent is visible on top of the mountain washes lead back from the main canyon
The archeologist found an area along now, so the lava may have flowed to dwelling sites of the Dieguenos who
the ancient beach line that contained through fissures like Fairbanks found at once lived there, where bits of pottery
numerous solidified footprints of the other locations. But regardless of the and occasionally grinding stones may be
former inhabitants as they followed the lava's origin, it's a good place to get a seen.
receding waters, presumably searching close-up look at an extinct volcano. The To continue your exploration of this
Desert/June 1976 37
fascinating country, back-track to the Clashes between Indians and the cavalry points was completed in 1912 by blasting
westbound lane of Highway 8 and con- were frequent. Carl Woellwerts, report- a route through the Jacumba Mountains
tinue approximately five miles up the er for Jacumba's newspaper, The Moun- by way of Mountain Springs. But the
grade to the Mountain Springs under- taineer, told me about U.S. cavalry new road did not ensure a trouble-free
pass. Turn off and park your car below. troops being " t r e e d " by Indians in a journey. Burned-out bearings were fre-
Mountain Springs are approximately nearby area where I.D. tags of the troops quent casualties of the steep boulder-lin-
one-half mile west. There are stone cor- could be dug up for many years after. ed climb. The McDonalds stocked a
rals still standing near the springs which The ruins of the station which served supply of bearings and they would usual-
local tradition says were used by General the various stage lines that passed ly show the hapless traveler how to make
Stephen Kearney's cavalry during the through Mountain Springs may still be the necessary repairs. Tire blowouts
1880s, but history records General Kear- seen near the rock corrals. A visit to the were numerous, too, but these they re-
ney passing away in 1848. However, tra- old station by George Wharton James paired along the way. In a newspaper in-
dition could be correct about the years back in 1906 when he was writing, "The terview in 1969, Phillip McDonald of
troops were quartered there. Wonders of the Colorado Desert," re- Phoenix told about a motorist arriving at
During the years following the Civil called some vivid memories. " H e r e , " he their Mountain Springs garage and
War the flow of travel through Mountain wrote, " i n the old days high carnivals boasting about having only 20 flat tires
Springs increased daily and with the and revels were held. Whiskey, cards, in the 36-mile drive from El Centre
growing number of travelers, so rose the singing and such revelry as rude and For the first 12 years business was
Indian attacks against them and those al- wild men enjoy, saw the hours pass. For good in the little community, then pro-
ready settled along the westward trail. here teamsters, prospectors, miners and gress intervened and it began to decline.
other desert wayfarers used to meet In 1927, a paved road that passed be-
where there were no restraints but their tween the store and garage was complet-
own appetites and passions." ed. This increased the flow of traffic but
Unique lawn decoration. Turns in Author James was more charitable to- with better roads and improved automo-
s l i g h t e s t breeze. A d d s rustic biles, there was little need for travelers
charm. 4V2 ft., 8 ft. & 10 ft. sizes. ward the man who made the revelry pos-
OXED. Free Color Literature. Send
sible: "The former owner of this desert to stop. The final blow came in 1940
to Ornamental W i n d m i l l Sales, 10336
DeSoto, Chatsworth, Calif. 91311. whiskey hell is now a peaceful, useful when a new highway was rerouted away
213-341-2672.
member of society, an earnest worker for from the village. Today, in spite of the
the Salvation Army in one of the cities of nearby freeway, the little oasis is a
the Pacific Coast." peaceful haven where you may let your
CATALOG thoughts drift backward half a century to
If you continue southward through the
FUN t PROFIT underpass a few hundred feet after leav- a serene way of living that might have
WITH existed there.
METAL DETECTORS ing the springs you will reach the little
settlement of Mountain Springs. Desert- At the top of Mountain Springs grade
COMPASS, GOLDAK, MYTY-MYTE
From $59.95 to $299.50
ed now, except for an occasional care- a road leads to the right past the In-Ko-
For the Prospector & Treasure Hunters. taker, it stands just about the way it was Pah County Park to Desert View Tower,
We have Gold Pans, Books, Topo Maps,
Dredges, and many other Related Supplies. back in 1914 when the McDonald family a landmark that grew from one man's
Mortar & Pestle — Vi Pt. size Cast
Iron — Postpaid $6.50. opened a garage and store there to meet daydream nearly 69 years ago. In 1907,
the traveler's needs. Bert L. Vaughn of Jacumba envisioned a
JACOBSEN SUPPLIERS huge stone observation tower as a monu-
9322 California Am., South Gate, Calif. The first through road for automobiles
Phon* (21J) 569-1041 90210 between San Diego and Imperial Valley ment to the hardy teamsters and stage
drivers who opened the transportation
routes to Southern California. But it took
.,
43 years and the help of two other men to
WRITE FOR OUR TRIP BRO£H«UR fulfill that dream.
.0.19X14 The first to arrive was W.T. Ratcliffe,
DESERT T.CALIFQ who apparently was more of a sculptor
than a stone mason. How much he con-
EXPEHIXO tributed to Vaughn's uncompleted tower
is not known, but the lifelike animals and
reptiles he chiseled out of granite boul-
ders are ample proof of his ability as an
artist.
In 1929, Dennis Newman, the present
owner, bought the tower but World War
II prevented his finishing and opening it
to the public until 1950. During his ser-
vice in the war as a flier, Newman travel-
ed all over the world and was able to col-
lect artifacts and souvenirs from many
Desert/June 1976
A FAMILY VACATION
lands. These he has assembled in the
tower to make a fascinating international
display which, combined with the desert
artifacts he has collected, make his mu-
Cwilse
seum a particularly rewarding place to
visit. There is a small charge to visit the
Lake roweii
top of the tower and the stone mena- as . . .Captain, First Mate and
gerie, but admission to the first floor and Crew of a twin-engine 43'
use of the picnic tables are free. Luxuriously equipped Boatel Unmatched Beauty with clean air,
The early history of Jacumba is laced Aqua Sports Paradise! sunny days, and starlit nights.
with tales about contraband arms, smug- A Change of Pace! FREE BROCHURES
gled aliens, bandit loot and violence.
Desert/June 1976 39
... Kii ng ©
eser r
Text and Illustrations
by FRANK O'NEILL
Hocks
Type E Only..
sary depends on the size of the crys-
PLUS POSTAGE.
tals, but large ones are made in a few
Send for FREE Brochure Showing days at most.
Other Models to Fit Any Vehicle The growth times above are not true
DEALER for all minerals, and it is perhaps con-
INQUIRIES by ceivable that some minerals might take
INVITED GLENN and years to form crystals, but if so, this
MARTHA VARGAS would be the exception.
1141 WiltseyRd.,SE
Salem, Oregon 97302 There is another side to the thought of
time and crystal growth. We can re-
member a statement made by an official
MINERALS:
GIANT BINOCULARS! Are They Being Formed Today? connected with the first American un-
derground atomic bomb explosion. To
These large-aperture binoculars are superb! Designed by \IH lit ion
li'isls. to be the finest at any price, they equal or surpass models selling
for UP TO TEN TIMES MORE! The I l i E ARE often asked two questions: newsmen, he told a story of rubies, em-
incomparable instrument (or long-
jAiare minerals being formed today, eralds and other gems being formed at
distance or night time use they
are endorsed by the world's I I and does it take millions of years for the time of the blast. To us, it was very
loremost experts. Astron-
omers, big-game hunters, crystals to grow? The answer to the first fanciful, for no mineral forms crystals of
ornithologists, yachtsmen,
four-wheelers — all agree question is yes; the second is somewhat any appreciable size in such a short time.
— you must own a pair.
qualified, but ususally is no. For minerals to grow crystals, they
9x65 binoculars $109.95 ppd
Let us explore the second question must have relatively stable conditions in
10x70 binoculars 119.95ppd
llxMbinoculars 149.95ppd irst, for by understanding crystal the liquid or vapor from which they form.
20x80 binoculars 159.95 ppd
growth, we can more easily understand When conditions reach the point where
e send check
>nt!y order to:
what is happening at the moment. Many crystals will grow, the conditions must
Novatron; Box 531-D, Big Bear City, Calif. 92314 minerals grow very rapidly. A saturated not change rapidly. If they did, the opti-
salt solution, placed in a shallow pan, mum point for one mineral might quickly
TREASURE HUNTERS will reveal crystals around its edges pass, and then approach that of another.
PROSPECTORS within only a day or two, if the air is rela- Thus, such things as cooling, evapora-
Metal-Mineral Detectors tively dry. Sugar is not considered a min- tion, pressure, or whatever condition is
DREDGES eral, but it behaves much like one. Many necessary for a mineral to form, must
DRY WASHERS MAPS a housewife, that has canned fruit, has have only small changes over periods of
BOOKS TOOLS ASSAY KIT
set aside a small amount of syrup left time. If the time is short, small, or very
SLUICE BOXES MINERAL LIGHTS
LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT over from the process. If it was forgotten few crystals will form. If the time is long,
Send 25c for catalog to: for a few weeks, the jar contained unique many large crystals, or a few very large
AURORA crystals. The old fashioned rock candy is crystals may grow. It is these variables
6286 BEACH BLVD. that gives the idea that crystal growth
BUENA PARK, CALIF. 90620
the result of such a process. Strings are
[714)521-6321 suspended in a strong sugar solution, can be instantaneous or take millions of
COE PROSPECTOR SUPPLY and it is forced to evaporate. The making years.
9264KATELLA of long strings of sugar crystals takes Obviously, it is not easy to determine
ANAHEIM, CALIF. 92804 place in a matter of minutes. the growth time of a mineral crystal that
[7141995-1703
Quartz, the most common mineral, is dug out of the tunnel face of a mine.
JEWELRY CRAFTS CATA100 has been synthesized for the manu- Much study might be needed, and even
facture of crystal wafers to control elec- then the answer might elude the re-
FREE!
trical frequency for radios. These are searcher. Nevertheless, we have had
made in an ingenious tank where the some interesting experiences concerning
temperature is carefully controlled. At old mines.
the bottom of the tank, where the raw A few months ago, an article appeared
Lapidary — rockhounding
ifwelry making ... add up to quartz lies, the temperature is just above in the magazine Earth Science. The
a fascinating creative art!
the point where it will dissolve in water article described excellent large groups
SEND FOR FREE CATALOG
BIGGEST I World's largest selection - over 10,000 itemi (about 500 deg. Celsius). of selenite (gypsum) crystals that were
1 offered...imports from all parti of the world.
JTONIS—jiwmr MATIIIALS- MOUNTINGS
The quartz in solution is carried, by found encrusting ladders, pipes, and
IOOKI-CMFT TOOll-MACHINilr —SUPflllS—ITC. convection, upward in the tank, but other articles in an abandoned mine.
GRIEGER'S, INC. DePt. 52 H H I while doing so, the water cools. When it They were not there when the mine was
y900 So. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, CA 91 1 0 9 /
42
abandoned 40 years earlier. amount of rain, and some of the water eral crystals and other easily seen
One of the mines in the vicinity of ran down into and filled some of the old foreign materials. At least in part, these
Jerome, Arizona (now a ghost town) was tunnels. When it had finally seeped and can be the result of changing conditions
gutted by fire. Investigation following dried away, those who investigated during crystal growth. This can then be
the fire disclosed some new minerals found pipes, mine rail tracks, and tunnel looked upon as an increase of time, from
never found before. These had formed walls covered with many perfect crystals which we may conclude that—the longer
during and following the fire which had of borax. These were taken out carefully, the time, the greater the chance for ab-
burned for many days. as borax crystals are not common. Some normality. When we look on a fine, per-
If we come home to our desert, the were in huge slabs weighing many fectly clear, well-formed crystal of any
well-known d/y lake is an excellent ex- pounds. These were studded with mineral, we are forced to conclude that it
ample of the natural formation of crystals up to three and four inches long, grew in a hurry. •
mineral crystals. These "lakes" are the and an inch in width.
final dumping ground of flood waters At the time of removal from the tun-
RIVERSIDE COUNTY'S LARGEST
that rise in the surrounding hills during a nel, the crystals were often perfectly
4-WHEEL-DRIVE HEADQUARTERS
flash flood following a thunder storm. clear, ranging from colorless to slightly
During the trip of the water down the yellow. Borax is not a stable mineral, Accessories for All Makes
hillsides, it dissolves some of the solu- and usually alters to another mineral
able minerals in its path. Most of these
are what the chemist and the mineralo-
called tincalconite. The borax looses
water through dehydration to become VI Jeep
gist call salts. The most common of these the new mineral, which is snow white. JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER, INC
is ordinary table salt (halite), but there Many mineral collectors now have fine 7590 Cypress [at Van Buren]
are others. Many of these minerals are specimens of tincalconite after borax (a P.O. Box 4277
those that give "hardness" to water. pseudomorph), but few of them realize Riverside, California 92504
Telephone [714] 785-1330
When the water reaches the surface of that in a sense they were partially made
the dry lake, it floods it for a depth of through the efforts of man.
anywhere between a fraction of an inch, If we ignore water-soluble minerals,
to many feet. This will depend upon the we then must talk of the minerals that
amount of water in the flood, and the are formed at least fairly deep in the 48 YEARS BEFORE
size of the lake. If the flooding produces earth as a result of thermal activities. "CHOPSUEY"
a water depth of a number of inches, any Under these conditions, super-heated WAS CONCOCTED
salts that were previously lying on the steam will dissolve many minerals and [in New York City],
surface are redissolved and mix with later deposit them in cooler areas closer Covington manufactured hand & foot powered grinders
for Gem Coral & Sea Shells - never losing their
those that were brought in. to the surface. leadership. They now offer a selection of over 200
modern pieces of Lapidary Equipment & Accessories.
As evaporation takes place, the op- Volcanic action melts minerals during
timum point for one of the minerals the stage before and during an eruption. Deluxe Gem Tumbler
finally appears, and crystals begin to When these are spewed out onto the sur- Rugged, compact for pros
& beginners. Mod. 250D,
form. When the lake eventually becomes face, minerals, either the same ones first Sh.WMSIbs.
dry once more, it may be studded with melted, or new ones, will crystalize when
crystals of these salts, perched on humps the lava cools.
8" & 10" Koolerant Kontrolled
and ridges on the hard lake surface. The Volcanologists often make dangerous
Trim Saws Heavy duty
humps and ridges are the result of the trips to the crater rims of active vol- throughout. Complete with Power
Feed & Cut-Out. Switch & Motor.
rapid growth of the crystals in the very canoes to find unusual crystals that form Mod. 157d-10",
Sh. Wt. 45 lbs. $283.55
shallow water. One of the finest during eruptions. One of these is salam-
examples of these that we know of is moniac, usually found only as crystals Ultra-sonic Drill
Bristol Dry Lake, a short distance south within the steam-bathed area of the Drill the hardest stones in seconds
with 20,000 pulses per second.
of the town of Amboy, California, just off crater rim. After the eruption is over, the Uses ordinary silicon carbide grit.
Interstate 40 between Barstow and crystals are dissolved by rain and No soldering. No retuning, Ameri-
can made. Ship wt. 47*.
Needles. washed down into the side of the Model
638D. $1,885.00
One of the most unique instances of volcano.
the formation of mineral crystals also Obviously, we cannot visit many of
took place in our desert. The town of these thermal areas to view and study
' C O V I N G T O N Slnce
I Box 35, Dept. p., Redlands, CA 92373
Boron, California, east of Los Angeles, is the formation of mineral crystals. Those I Please accept my order for the following items, |
?nd ship at once: J ,.__ T ._,,.:
the site of one of our largest borax that we can watch, however, tell us that I Enclosed is my:
Gem Tumbler
Drill
Free
mines. In the earlier history of the the process is definitely going on. How I P Check
f l Money Order
Trim Saw
Catalog
I
mines, located on an old dry lake, the long it may take in each case is Nature's
work was underground, in tunnels. carefully guarded secret. We highly Name.
Later, these were abandoned, and an suspect that not much time is wasted in Address.
open pit formed. any of the crystal growth processes.
ICIty.
During the early stages of the open pit.
operation, the area received a huge
We occasionally find mineral crystals
that have inclusions of mud, other min- (state. .Zip. I
Be tun to enclose postage. Calll. Buyers^Add Tax. I
DRY FLY ASSORTMENT, 20 for $6.98. Check or OLD COINS, STAMPS TREASURE FINDERS
MO. Calif, add 6%. Shasta House, 306 Ida,
Dept. D6, Mt. Shasta, California 96067.
SILVER DOLLARS, UNCIRCULATED 1880-81 BURIED TREASURE — Locate up to quarter
S. 1883-84-85 O mint $10.00 each. Catalogue mile away with ultra-sensitive Directional Loca-
50c. Schultz, Box 746, Salt Lake City, Utah 84110 tor. Send for free, informative phamplet. Re-
GEMS search Products, Box 13441-BUC, Tampa, Fla.
33611.
SHAMROCK ROCK SHOP, 593 West La Ca- OLD U.S. SILVER and Gold Coins in all denom-
dena Dr., Riverside, California92501. Parallel to inations, 1809-1964. Many in mint condition.
Order by mail and save. List 25c. Bodie, Box WILL YOU GAMBLE $4.00 to save $200? Build
Riverside Freeway. Phone 686-3956. Come in one of several detectors from our 20-page book
and browse; jewelry mountings, chains, sup- 428, Ridgecrest, California 93555.
"Build Transistor Treasure Detectors." Easily
plies, minerals, slabs, rough material, equip- followed instructions, $4.00. Trionics, Box 164D,
ment, black lights, metal detectors, maps, rock Brewer, Maine 04412.
and bottle books. HOW TO PLACE YOUR AD
Mail your copy and first-insertion remittance
to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, Palm POWERFUL METROTECH locators detect
GEM SHOP WEST. Mineral specimens, custom Desert, Calif. 92260. Classified rates are 25c gold, silver, coins, relics. Moneyback guarantee.
jewelry, gem identification, slabbing. 72-042 per word, $5.00 minimum per insertion. Terms, free information. Underground Explora-
Highway 111, Rancho Mirage, Calif. 92270. Deadline for Classified Ads is 10th of second tions, Dept. 3A, Box 793, Menlo Park, Calif.
Phone 346-2812. month preceding cover date. 94025.
44 Desert/June 1Q7R
MISCELLANEOUS
MAPS!
ROADMAP TO CALIFORNIA'S PIONEER
TOWNS,GHOST TOWNS AND MINING
PROFESSIONAL ART BY MAIL—The only one CAMPS
of its kind you have been looking for. Courses Compiled by Varna Enterprises, 38"x25" and
approved by California Dept. of Education. V.A. scaled Southern California on one side and
Approved. Send for Free Brochure. Roy Keister Northern California on the other. Contains de-
College of Fine Arts, 15800 Highland Dr., San DESERT O V E R V I E W MAPS tailed location of place names, many of which
Jose, California 95121. Using topographic maps as basic underlays, are are not on regular maps $3.50
two excellently detailed maps for back country
explorers of Ihe Mojave and Colorado Deserts MAP OF PIONEER TRAILS
Maps show highways, gravel roads, jeep trails,
JULIAN EPITAPH —weekly publication from old Compiled by Varna Enterprises, this is their new
plus historic routes and sites, old wells, which
mountain gold mining town. History, humor, large map on pioneer trails blazed from 1541
are not on modern-day maps, plus ghost towns.
through 1867 in the western United States Su-
small town news. Unique gift item. Yearly, Indian sites, elc. Mojave Desert Overview perimposed in red on black and white, 3 7 " x 4 5 " .
$10.00. Box 764, Julian, California 92036. covers from U S 395 at Little Lake lo Boulder
$4.00
City, Nevada, to Parker Dam to Victorville. Colo-
rado Desert Overview covers from the Mexican
COIN INVESTMENTS For Retirement and border to Joshua Tree National Monument to ROADMAP TO CALIFORNIA'S LOST MINES
Banning to the Arizona side of the Colorado Riv- AND BURIED TREASURES
Profits! Complete Information included in our er Be certain to state which map when o r d e n n g .
Detailed Publication! $2.00 Postpaid. Coins, Box Compiled by Varna Enterprises, 38"x25" and
$3.00 Each scaled Southern California on one side and
1377-D, LaCrosse, Wisconsin 54601.
Northern California on the other. Contains de-
ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK tailed location of place names, many of which
TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS are not on regular maps $4.00
NATURAL STONE HOUSE detailed building in- A set of 7 maps covering the An^a-Borrego Des-
structions . . . illustrated! 156 pages . . . $4.95 ert State Park, 8V? " x 1 1 " ' format, bound $5.50 Order maps today from
postpaid. Guaranteed! Glenn Smith Enterprises,
Box 1513, Dept. 69, Akron, Ohio 44309.
FREE GIFT CATALOG! Low, low priced gifts. ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION • RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION
Write Gifts for All Occasions, MD1, Box 77,
Queenstown Road, Severn, Maryland 21144.
NAME
ADDRESS
Clyde Forsythe's Famous . . .
Series
Four Mining Camp Scenes
NAME
ADDRESS
All In 4-Color
Sign Gift Darrl- "From
Each 1 4 " x l 7 " with white margins
on high quality paper suitable for iI SEND GIFT SUBSCRIPTION TO:
framing.
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Postage & Tax included One Year $6.00 [] PAYMENT ENCLOSED • BILL ME LATER
Send Check or Money Order ro
Two Years $11.00 • ALSO SEND DESERT'S 12-ISSUE
Desert Magazine Book Shop, (Or 2 One Years) HANDSOME BROWN VINYL BINDER FOR
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 $4.50 (Includes tax and postage)
Three Years $16.00
No Charges Please. (Or Three One Years) Date Binder(s) with Year(s) D Undated
45
Desert/June 1976
Desert
Shopper Flexi-fire Multi-use Torch
This handy torch will be the answer to
many problems for the hobbyist and home
craftsman. Especially applicable for sil-
versmithing when using a pin point tip.
CR-23 Converter
Now any automobile A M radio can be-
New Features include exclusive UP-FRONT
flame control valve, four foot flexible hose
lets you work in hard-to-reach areas,
operates in any position, pencil point tip
come a Citizens Band (CB) Receiver.
Sperry Systems, Inc., has introduced an
inexpensive totally unique 23 channel CB
Receiver that provides CB reception on
any automobile A M radio. Sperry's CR-23
and for general purpose work, specially de-
signed wire legs support propane cylinder
to assure proper gas flow (also can be used
to hook propane cylinder to ladder, work-
bench, etc.), molded hand grip reduces
features wide dynamic signal reception
with high sensitivity. The CR-23 permits
monitoring of all 23 Citizens Band (CB)
channels by simply tuning the A M dial to
interesting fatique, all brass thread adapter lets you
use both universal metric or standard
threaded tips when required, assorted ac-
cessory tips let you select right flame size
the desired channel. This remarkable
compact system can be installed in less
than a minute and does not require tools
or a special antenna. A convenient switch
enables the user to easily select either A M
products for each job. Do-it-yourself uses include
auto body repair, metal sculpture, burning
off paint, soldering copper tubing, remov-
ing nuts, bolts, damaged screws, repair-
ing household and farm utensils, thawing
reception or CB reception. Now any mo- frozen pipes, burning weeds, drying spark
torist can benefit from the CB traffic con- plugs, anneal and case harden metals
ditions, accident reports and hear all inter- Items appearing in this column Hundreds of uses for home, garage, farm,
vehicular conversations. are not paid advertisements laboratory, hobby, boat, etc.
For information, write to Sperry Systems, Available for only $15.95 from Jacobsen
Inc., 129-31 Broadway, Dept. D, Melrose Suppliers, 9322 California Avenue, Dept.
Park, Illinois 60160. D, South Gate, California 90280.
,0 \
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10 - 4 weekdays
10-3 Saturday
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by appointment
DESERT MAGAZINE
ART GALLERY
Located at
Highway 111 and
Deep Canyon Road
in Palm Desert,
California
An original
oil painting,
"The Lonely Road"
18"x24"
by Charles L. Cochrane