Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Volume 4 8 , No. 4
August-September 1984
ISSN 0194-3405
C O N T E N T S
MONUMENT VALLEY FRONT COVER Desert Staff
DESERT QUIZ 2 Desert Staff
MINE, MINER, MINUS-THE STORY OF HARQUA HALA 4 DW Grantham
THE GOLDEN TREASURE OF PADRE LA RUE 12 Dr. David Redd
PAISANO, THE DESERT'S CUCKOO BIRD 16 George Bradt
EXPLORING GHOST RAILROADS-THE MOJAVE MONORAIL 20 C.A. Keagle
EXPLORING THE UNKNOWN COLORADO (1826) 25 Desert Staff
THE PONY EXPRESS IN NEVADA 30 Bandini and Grantham
FORT OJO CALIENTE, NEW MEXICO 35 Desert Staff
CALENDAR OF WESTERN EVENTS 39 Desert Staff
BOOKS FOR DESERT READERS 40 The Desert Bookstore
JUST BETWEEN YOU AND ME 43 The Editor
RHYOLITE, NEVADA REAR COVER Desert Staff
8
The English company had
their own ideas about how to run
an American mine. In short suc-
cession, they: 1) fired the
Mexican miners and replaced
them with higher paid Anglo
Saxon miners, who frequently
became sick and lost valuable
time, 2) fired the experienced
mine forman, Charley Picken-
back, and replaced him with an
Englishman named Oxman, 3)
Lost most of the water pipeline
due to a sudden large rain, thus
necessitating expensive and
time consuming repairs, 4) were
forced to shut down the mill due
to a boiler accident, 5) were
forced to sink a new main shaft
which caused a three month
shutdown of the mine, 6) Harqua Hala's cemetary can be identi-
discovered that the rich upper fied by the piles of rock covering
level ores were playing out, 7) the graves.
discovered that only low grade
ore could be found on the lower
levels of the mine, 8) discovered
that the Golden Eagle Mine only
contained low grade ore valued
at from $2 to $12 a ton, and 9)
had their tax assessment raised
from $40,000 to $1,250,000 by
the County Board of
Equilization. Thus it became
obvious that the English com-
pany was in trouble.
In desperation, Jthey installed
cyanide vats and processed the
tailings. They even cut down the
pillars in the stopes and One of the abandoned mining buildings
processed the ore. This caused a
rests high on a hill.
great cave-in at Bonanza. The
hugh cavity created was named
"The Harqua Hala Glory Hole." -
Then in October 1895, the com-
pany announced that the ore
body was exhausted and
operations would cease. It has
been estimated that the English
company lost at least a million
dollars on their venture.
In the summer of 1899, the
mine was sold at auction. The
bidder-none other than Anth-
ony G. Hubbard, who repurch-
ased the mine for $7,000. He
held on to the mine and sold it
for $40,000 in May 1904. Since
then, several smaller attempts
have been made to mine the
property, but without much suc-
cess. But who really knows what
secrets the Harqua Hala Mount-
ains hold for the miner or The authors 5 year old son, Edward,
treasure seeker. points out an antique bottle.
Settling pans, like giant crucibles, lie below the clayey silt dump of what may have
been a flotation-type mill, no longer existing.
• • •
Martin Mountain (right) and the famous Harquahala glory hole which resulted
from the collapse of tunnels and stopes. Drifts honeycomb this once famous peak
following fabulously rich veins of almost pure gold.
10
Today, a visit to the district is
easy and can be done in a
passenger car. To get there,
travel to Salome, Arizona on
Highway 60. Turn South on the
road next to the Post Office. A
short distance beyond the La
Paz County Sheriffs station, the
road forks. To the left is Salome-
Buckeye Road. This road passes
the sites of Orville, Centennial,
and Harrisburg. To the right is
Harquahala Road which we
must follow to our destination.
The former townsite is approx-
imately 8 miles from the junc-
tion, over a mostly gravel and
rock road. The scenery is great
with vast stands of Ocotillo and
Saguaro.
At the townsite, only a few
buildings remain, ghostly
remainders of another era. A
graveyard on the north end of
the townsite next to the road,
with its piles of rock, is a visible
reminder of foregone times. The
mines are posted as private
property, so permission should The current facilities at Harqua Hala
be obtained before entering any town site.
posted area. Please be cautious
as there are open shafts in the
area and they are dangerous.
Rockhounds will find this area
very rewarding. While the
Harquahala Mountains consist
of crystalline rocks, mostly pre-
Cambrian but including some
Paleozoic strata, it has been
tilted in various directions and
intruded by dark-colored basic
dikes. Veinlets of quartz and
calcite are found throughout the
area. Ore shoots occupied zones
of shearing between a sediment-
ary series of limestone, shale,
and quartzite with the basal
granitic formation. Pyrite was
deposited along brecciated
zones that are now filled with
sericite. Some of the quartzite is
conglomerate. Many very at-
tractive samples of the colors of
rocks of the area can be picked
up around the dump sites. We
also found a trash dump and
were able to salvage some very
attractive old bottles. An overview of the Harqua Hala
Harqua Hala, with its peaceful mining district looking west.
and scenic location, is worth a Compare this to the picture on
visit, if for nothing else than to the previous page taken in 1940.
enjoy the rocky desert and its
beauty. It is an area we will look
forward to visiting again.
11
T H E G O L D E N T R E A S U R E O F
P A D R E L AR U E
BY DR. DAVID REDD
THE PADRE Leaned closer to the lips With these words the old man died.
of the dying man, so that he might hear The padre performed the Last rites in
the Lowspoken words. "In the Sierra de a thoughtful mood. Go. . . where the
Los Organos, there is gold! I have seen gold Lies buried. . .It seemed madness.
it with my own eyes. It is no good for Yet in a few months' time his people
me to know of it, now. Padre...our peo- would be dying from the drought and
pLe are starving...take them and go to proverty of this place. Where now were
the Organs. Surely they, too, will find his early dreams? He remembered the day
the gold." in France when he had been told that he
was one of ten lucky young priests to
Gold! The padre was still young e- be chosen for missionary work in the New
nough to feel an upward surge of desire World. He recalled the zealous thrill
and hope as he heard the words. The old with which he had faced the long trip
soldier surely couldn't be wrong,for he from France to this desolate little colony
had traveled over that whole wild north- of hardy souls in Northern Chihuahua.He
ern part of New Spain. Then, too,the in- had led his people wisely, becoming more
credible wealth of the Aztecs was still than a mere priest, more like a real fa-
remembered, for the year was only 1798. ther to his little family. And then the
Padre La Rue looked out through the win- meager stream that had irrigated the fer-
dow to where his little flock were try- tile fields in the valley slowly dwindled,
ing desperately to wrest a living from leavingthe crops to dry and burn in the
the drying fields of corn. Perhaps this desert sun. Something had to be done soon.
was the answer to his'prayers.
The man on the cot stirred and open- Resolutely Padre La Rue called his peo-
ed his tired eyes. ple together.
"This gold," the padre reminded him, "There are but two things we can do.It
"how can we find it? Where are these is impossible for us to remain here until
Organ Mountains?" the drought is passed. Certainly we would
all die of starvation. We either can go
"You must travel ten days until you back to Mexico and find homes among our
come to the place where the Rio Grande friends. . .or we can go to the Organ
cuts its way through the mountains.They Mountains. Perhaps we shall find the gold
call it El Paso del Norte. Two days' of our good friend. Perhaps we shall find
journey farther north and you will see nothing. Which shall it be?"
the stone pipes of the Organ Mountains.
"Exhausted, he again wearily closed his There was among his people only one an-
eyes, rousing only with an effort. "At swer, "Gold."
the north end there is a pass, and the It didn't take them long to prepare for
Spirit Springs.Nearby you will find the the journey. Their mean little hovels held
Cueva Vegas, Cave of the Meadows,at the few possessions. One fine morning the car-
foot of a high cliff.The gold is there. avan moved out of the village, leaving it
Go, padre...go where the gold lies buri- quiet and deserted. And the Camino Real,
ed. You can save. . . our . . . people . that Royal Highway between Santa Fe and
Mexico,was trod once more by a hopeful band
toiling slowly northward.
12
To you who would "Go—Where the Gold Lies Buried" this map is
not the key to your fortune. But it is as accurate as legend can make
it. The story of the golden treasure of Padre La Rue and his 18th
century colony in the Organ mountains is commonly known in
southern New Mexico—but you will hear a different version at each
street corner. For almost 250 years men have searched for the cave
of gold bullion. There are today men who have spent most of their
lives in a vain search. At least one man is certain he has definite
clues that he is on the right trail.
True to the old soldier's word, There were the Spirit Springs gush-
after 10 arduous days they came to ing frcr.-. the rocks, and there was the
a broad green valley with the tower- Cave of the Meadows. Now, where was
ing Organ Mountains on its eastern the gold? Eagerly, the men scattered
horizon. Here was the abundant water into the adjoining canyons, unmindful
of the Rio Grande, and the little of danger from lurking Apache Indians.
Indian Village of Tortugas traded Soon they stumbled onto chunks of milk
them precious food for the bits of white quartz with evident gold content.
finery which were remnants of better They had found the right place!
days.
"This is to be our home," Padre La
After a brief rest and a laying Rue told them after he had performed
in of food, they left the lush valley mass'." We must make it as safe as possi-
and continued up to the pass at the ble against attack from without, and
north end of the Organs. Again they strife from within. Gold is a good thing
were thankful to find that the old when it is used wisely. I ask you to re-
soldier's directions were accurate. member our proverty, and that we are here
13
by God's grace.To prevent trouble^i re- One Senor Maximo Milliano was sent
quest that all gold be brought to me. I north as a representative of the Church
shall buy all supplies and equipment we to find a solution to the puzzle. After
need from the valley settlements and a journey of many days he arrived at
from El Paso. We must keep this gold a the site of the colony to find only
secret. If others learn of it, many shall crumbling adobe walls and sand-drifted
aspire to possess it." barren fields. Senor Milliano was deep-
ly vexed. Finding his way to a nearby
Indian Village, he faced the danger of
Months passed . . .and years. The rich
bribing the natives to reveal their
vein of ore was found far back in the
knowledge of the colony. He received
canyon where they could tunnel into it
for an answer, "They go . . ."
without detection from prying eyes. A
high stone wall was erected about the
village, and a constant guard was kept After reporting back to Mexico City,
at the gate. Inside, the little houses Maximo Milliano, with the aid of the
of stone were beehives of activity and Church, organized an expedition to
contentment. Arrastras, or orecrushers, search for the whereabouts of this co-
were built and adobe smelters arose lony which had so strangely disappear-
where once the mountain goat had held ed. After searching for an entire year,
dominion. Steadily the gold bullion they stumbled, by chance, onto the
poured into Padre La Rue's treasure- Indian village of Tortugas. Here the
house the old Cove of the Meadows. Indians told Milliano of the colony in
the Organs—told him of the gql'd that
But, as he had once warned his peo- had been traded for their food. At the
ple, gold usually brought trouble. . . sight of some of this very gold,
Milliano's eyes widened in surprise.No
The first hint of disorder was caused wonder the Church had heard nothing
by Padre La Rue's own neglect of cleri- from Padre La Rue! Quickly, he travell-
cal duty. When he first had come to his ed to the colony.
colony in Chihuahua, he had wanted to
wait until his mission was well estab- Barred from entering the stone por-
lished before he reported to the Church tals of Spirit Springs, Milliano demand-
in Mexico City. But the drought came ed to see Padre La Rue.
and the climaxing knowledge of the gold.
In the excitement of preparing for the A few minutes later, with sinking
journey, the question of his report to heart, the good padre appeared on top
Mexico City was forgotten and when he of the wall near the gate.
did remember it, after reaching Spirit
Springs, he deemed it unwise to let the "Father La Rue, as representative of
Church know about their good fortune. the Church, I demand that you immediate-
The revelation of the gold would only ly deliver possession of the mine and
bring an avalanche of greedy treasure- all gold bullion on hand to the church,
seekers down upon their quiet village. to whom it belongs." The padre gazed
So the matter of his report gradually steadfastly down into the greedy face
was forgotten by Padre La Rue. below him.
But it wasn't forgotten in Mexico "Senor, the mine does not belong to
City. The Church was intensely inter- me. Consequently it cannot belong to the
ested in the progress of each of the Church. God led a dying soldier to dis-
promising young priests. Reports came close its existence to us and God has
in regularly from nine of the priests, helped us to develop it. It has been our
but from the tenth one in Chihuahua... only source of livelihood these years.
only silence! Since the gold belongs to my people, I
refuse to deliver over one small portion
to you or to the Church. I would sug- had been the village of Spirit Springs.
gest that you return to Mexico City The mine was gone, covered now by tons
and forget us." of rock and rubble. During the storm a
mighty stream had flowed through the
In anger, Maximo Milliano Left village, leaving only a few rock walls
Spirit Springs to return again to to show that man had once called it his
Mexico. Padre La Rue knew that his home. Padre La Rue's cave was hidden,
Little colony no longer would be safe its entrance covered with rubble, rock,
here in the shadow of the Organs. and stones that would take years to
Soon would come the throngs of gold remove. It was as if God decided to
seekers and the worldly. Corruption, handle the situation for the Padre and
greed, and growth would come and his decision was to obliterate the
destroy his colony. He sank to his colony. The colonists found little
bed that night with a heavy heart. satisfaction in that the storm had
He knew trouble would come and he probably saved them from the attacking
must now decide how to handle it. Indians. Filled with despair, the
refugees made their way down the valley.
But trouble came sooner than he had There, they were welcomed among the
anticipated. The wild Apaches' hatred Mexican people who had newly colonized
had been smouldering since the dese- along the banks of the Rio Grande. But
cration of their holy springs by the the gold was not forgotten
white men. One dark night soon after
Milliano's visit, when thunder was Each generation since has had its
booming over the peaks and lightning treasure seekers. Today this land is no
threw weird shadows on the canyon longer in Chihuahua, Mexico, but lies
walls, they swooped down upon the in Southern New Mexico. Like all legends,
unsuspecting village, showered it there must be a grain of truth in this
with deadly arrows, tossed firebrands story of Padre La Rue.
upon the thatched roofs, overcame the It is locally told that in 1907, a
guards, and rushed into the treasure prospector visited the mountain home of
house. Brave to the last, Padre La one Teso Aguirre, a descendant of one
Rue stood guard over the accumulated of the original Spirit Springs Colony,
treasure of gold. But he was soon and was shown the old cave and former
overcome and died in the room where site. But he was not shown the treasure,
he had guarded the gold for so, so nor was it discussed. And the area did
many years. not show any signs of mining activity nor
exploration. Again, Colonel A.J. Fountain
After the padre fell, those of the of Las Cruces, New Mexico, claimed to
colonists still alive fled to the have found an old record in either the
shelter of the canyons and the peaks. Mesilla Mission or the Dona Ana Mission
Rain poured down in mad torrents and describing the richest mine in the Spanish
the Indians soon found themselves Americas, located near the present town of
threatened by the water. The pursu- Organ, New Mexico.
ers became the pursued. The Indians At a later date, a band of Spanish re-
fled in all directions. Half-drowned fugees on their way from Mexico to Spain
people clung stubbornly to their stopped over in El Paso. They were report
rocky shelters and listened with ed to have found a church record in
fearful hearts to the tumbling waters Mexico City, giving the exact location of
that were flooding and dashing down the Spirit Springs mine. Could this have
the canyons. been Milliano's report of his discoverey
to his superiors??
As morning dawned, the storm ended. Who really knows? But maybe someone,
Wearily, hopelessly, a small group of sometime will find the Padre's Golden
sullen colonists collected where once Treasure.
15
• I
Have you ever seen a small, two- The roadrunner's feeding and over the sandy cactus wastes as
legged cloud of dust racing down a nesting habits are quite as out- silently as a cat. Cautiously
desert road? Or a large feathered landish as his personal appear- sneaking up to within a few yards
lizard dashing through the desert ance. Practically omnivorous, his of his proposed victim he suddenly
thickets? If you have you've seen a diet consists of about everything makes a final, fatal sprint which
roadrunner. If not-you've missed from snakes and mice to tarantulas usually ends with the quarry held
the most fascinating bird of them and bird's eggs. Occasionally it is firmly in his stout beak. A little effi-
all. varied with insects, fruits and cient hammering on the hard
You probably won't believe the seeds. But whatever the fare it ground renders the captive-
first one you see. "There just ain't usually is swallowed whole. This unconscious, and the swallowing
no such b i r d . " He's half tail, half habit makes the ingestion of a process is begun.
body, and all of him about two feet snake or a lizard a lengthy and While a roadrunner's physical
long. His unbirdlike wings are spectacular process. A sworn appearance and food tastes may be
short and rounded, his pale blue enemy of desert reptiles the learned from a little quiet ob-
legs long and thin. Almost directly roadrunner accounts for many a servation beneath a shady
behind a pinocchiobeak are small but deadly rattler. But the mesquite, a knowledge of the
brilliant yellow-brown eyes story that he builds a cactus corral bird's nesting activities can be
surrounded by areas of naked blue about the unlucky vipers, wherein acquired only by considerable field
and orange skin. A dark, bristly they wear themselves out and fall work and much patience. This we
crest adorns his head. Brown, easy prey to their captor, is a pure
"yarn." learned after tramping many a
black, olive, purple and whitish sandy mile among the spiny yuccas.
feathers, all of a course quality, The roadrunner's strange meals
clothe his slim body. He looks like are captured on foot, for seldom During two desert nesting seasons
a bird whose mother had been does this fantastic bird take to the we discovered the occupied nests
badly frightened by a large striped air. He prefers to reamain on the of three pairs of these elusive
snake when he was but an egg. ground, to run about the desert on creatures. Since roadrunners range
his skinny legs, and save his from Kansas westward to northern
capable wings for instant flight in California and south into central
case of danger. He stalks his prey Mexico, our notes on their nesting
habits apply fairly generally to the
species wherever found.
16
Below left—Six large ivhite eggs lay ing out of a shell. Note tiny wings
on the nest's thin lining of dry and large foot typical of terrestrial
grasses. Right—It's hard work break- roadrnnner.
The discovery date of our first blood quills in wings and tail. They Although we watched for five long
nest was March 30. It was well were far from pretty babies but minutes not once did he take his
hidden among the prickly leaves of there was something appealing dark, unblinking eyes off ours. His
a low yucca about four feet above about them. Perhaps it was color pattern was an admirable
the desert floor. The rough struc- because they were so helpless and example of avian camouflage.
ture was made of small twigs, dead alone. The only protection they Thanks to his mottled plummage
leaves and rootlets. Six large white had from the enemies that roamed he lost all semblance of shape.
eggs lay close together on a thin the desert day and night was their Had we not known of his existence
lining of dry grasses. Hurriedly we home's secret location. I doubt if we could have seen him.
photographed the nest and left the Two days later we returned. Of Our last trip to the nest was
area to let the adults return to in- the six babies only one remained! made four days later, one month
cubate their precious roadrunners-to- Here was a pathetic example of the after the discovery of the eggs. Our
be. struggle for survival on the desert. little friend was now well fledged
So far from home was the nest and Another two days passed and we and about ready to leave home.
so rough part of the road, it was not again visited the baby roadrunner. When he saw us approaching this
until April 15 that we had an As on all previous visits we failed last time he didn't bother to hide in
yucca. So instead of the shiny to see an adult bird, however the nest but nimbly hopped out
white eggs the nest now contained quietly we approached.
Below left—Where white shining
a half dozen black-skinned baby On the 26th, we found the little eggs had been now black-skinned,
birds. They were probably about a fellow already sprouting soft white-haired baby roadrunners hud-
week old. Their pale blue-grey feet brown and white feathers on wings dled together. Single survivor of a
and legs were extremely weak, and tail. The moment he sighted us
he tried to hide by flattening him- desert tragedy. Well-feathered bird-
their eyes still were closed, their ling almost ready to leave nest.
oily-looking black skin naked ex- self in the nest and"freezing." Not
ceDt for stiff white hairs and a few a feather or muscle moved.
and landed in a feathery heap on
the sand. Apparently, slightly skep-
tical of the efficacy of camouflage
he had decided to trust to his long
legs instead. The moment he hit
the ground he scrambled to his feet
and disappeared headlong into the
mass of dead yucca leaves
surrounding the base of the plant.
Before endeavoring to retrieve
him we set up the camera. Then I
began to pull him backwards out
of his prickly hide-away by his thin
legs. Although he didn't struggle
much he did let out one harsh, rattly,
rasping sound of such unexpected
and startling nature that I almost
threw him bodily from me in my
eagerness to put as much desert as
possible between me and that
unearthly sound. I've handled
some funny things in my desert
wanderings but that was the first,
and I hope last, time I ever had
grabbed a noise covered with
Feathers. As he continued this
racket until he had been
redeposited in his nest we were
able to find out that he made the
Adult roadrnnner incubating. Beneath warm feathers the baby roadrunner the uncanny sound by rubbing his
author later photographed in the process of hatching lies ivell protected. hard mandibles together.
When we started to take his final
picture we faced a problem. So
well did his queer plummage blend
with his surroundings it would
have been a photographic impos-
sibility to have shown just where
roadrunner began and nest left off.
The problem was partially solved
by placing the bird on an old glove
to give the proper separation be-
tween subject and back-ground. As
soon as we had the picture we left
nest and birdling for the last time.
Although we returned a week later
for a final check and to look for
other nests we did not expect to
find the nest occupied. It wasn't.
This final trip did net us
another roadrunner nest however.
Not more than three miles from
the first we found this second one
also in a low yucca. It was com-
pletely hidden from view by the
plant's cruel leaves. We happened
to find it only because we flushed
an adult from the nest. Since the
only way to reach it was from the
ground directly below it was quite
impossible to photograph it
without first removing the greater
part of the protecting foliage. We
contented ourselves with a peek at
the nest and its occupants. It con-
tained one young bird almost fully
fledged and ready to leave the
nest, one tiny black baby, and one
un hatched egg. We had read about
Roadrunner tracks in the sand; can the staggering laying of the
roadrunners, but this was the first
you tell which way he was travelling? time we had seen an example of it.
18
The third nest of our study was
discovered last spring. Late one
afternoon in April, I received a On reaching the shed we peered After a short siesta he fell to
message from my bird-conscious around one corner to try to find work again. Before he stopped a
friends. In the form of a short note the nest without flushing the adult. second time he secceeded in
left for me, it read: "we've a hawk It took some few minutes to ac- poking his blunt beak through the
nest for y o u . " custom our eyes to the semi- shell. Then appeared in rapid suc-
While hiking on a nearby mesa darkness within, and a few more to cession the rest of his blind, scantily-
they had found the nest. As they locate the nest. Little more than a haired head, one shoulder, a tiny
approached it a dark bird had platform of course sticks wedged claw-like wing, thigh, leg, and
hopped to the ground nearby. between a couple of old beams, it bluish foot. This maneuver ac-
Apparently in an effort to lure the lay only a few inches below the counted for the better part of half an
visitors away it feigned mortal in- sun-baked roof. On it say a large hour. The shell was hard and the
jury. But they were not to be dark bird--an adult roadrunner. protecting membranous lining tough.
fooled and went on to the nest While the brooding bird had seen At this point I gently lifted the little
which contained four white eggs. us long before we had discovered fellow out of the nest and placed him
it, we approached to within six feet on my hand. I shot his picture,
Except for the mention of the replaced him, and left the shed to
bird's strange actions near the nest of the nest before it hopped off
and dispappeared through a hole arrange for photographing a parent
it did sound as if they really might bird.
have found a hawk's nest. But in the back of the shed. The nest
when I asked if the nest were in a contained three eggs and one baby In the sketchy shade of an old
yucca and received for an answer, roadrunner. Since it was impos- mesquite we watched the under-
" N o , it's in an old shed near a sible to photograph the nest's brush about the windmill, shed and
windmill," I knew something was occupants because of it inacces- tank for signs of an adult roadrunner.
queer. A hawk's nest in a covered sible position we decided to con- Two hours passed before our vigil
building was something I had to centrate on a picture of an adult was rewarded with a distant view of
see for myself. To be certain of bird at a later date. To get it we an approaching "Paisano," as he is
locating this eighth wonder of the would need our remote control affectionately known in northern
bird world I obtained a detailed set-up plus a good many free Mexico. Over the hot sands he raced,
map of the area complete with in- daylight hours in the vicinity. his head and tail held low in a
tersections, cattle-guards, arroyos Sunday, May 2, found us again straight line with the rest of his body.
and other landmarks. at the nest-shed. When we arrived A few yards from the windmill he
we crept in quietly to get another halted and carefully reconnoitered
The nest had been discovered the little strip of no-man's-land be-
April 23. Six days later we drove to look at the incubating parent. But
neither adult was to be seen. In the tween him and his shed. Compared
the old roadrunner area late in the with his reptilian appearance while
afternoon and managed to nest now were two baby road-
runners, and two unhatched eggs. running he now looked like a totally
decipher the map sufficiently to different bird. His head was held
find the shed and windmill. At the No wonder the adults were not on
the nest. Hungry infants such as high and the course feathers of his
base of the whirring mill was a crest stood on end like the plumes of
large iron tank into which water these had to be fed often and
necessary lizards were to be found an ancient helmet. Every second or
was pumped for the cattle that fre- two he flicked his long tail, while
quented the country roundabout. only far afield. For a few minutes
we watched the little black holding it at a rakish angle.
The little shed, old and well-
weathered by desert winds and creataures stretch their thin necks, Satisfied that no enemy lurked in
sand, was covred with a rusted open pink mouths, and cry un- his path, he lowered head and tail
corrugated iron roof, and housed a availingly for food. and dashed for the shed. As the
small pump. Just before we left to set up our camera was focused to include
camera equipment a faint ticking only a brooding bird we were forced
As we approached the shed we
sound riveted our attention on the to wait until the feeding was com-
noticed two strange sets of tracks
nest. A second later a thin black pleted before releasing the shutter.
in the sand. Each print resembled a
crack appeared in one of the But as soon as the adult settled onto
small letter " x " . (See photograph
remaining eggs. Fascinated, we the nest we shot the picture.
accompanying this artricle). It was
impossible to tell from looking at watched the crack iengthen and This wound up our business with
the impressions the direction their widen until we were able to see the the roadrunner family. Knowing that
maker had been traveling. From naked birdling within. At this point by late afternoon the adults would
his foot-prints you couldn't tell the little prisoner took time o u t - have three babies to feed we left the
whether he was coming or going. it's hard work breaking out of a area to give them a free hand. If they
They were the yoke-toed feet of an shell, especially if you're no were going to capture enough food
adult roadrunner. His four toes are stronger than a baby roadrunner. for their hungry offspring they would
paired—two point forward, two have little time for cameras.
backward.
19
You might say Thunder and
Lightning are responsible for it—
that is, the curiosity of travelers
in the Mojave desert when thgy
come upon the stilt-like ruins of a
road bed east of Trona where an
"elevated" has no right to be. But
when Thunder and Lightning,
Prospector Joe's two burros, dis-
covered the healing qualities of
the white dust near their camp-
site they inadvertently started
the Epsom salts mining industry
over beyond Wingate pass, with
the consequent building of the
elevated mono rail which served
to haul the salts out of the desert
mountains. Now only the skel-
eton of the road bed remains, to
evoke questions from those who
pass along that way.
Like a great thousand legged worm the mono rail road crawls up through Layton
canyon. View of construction work taken by unknown photographer.
The hot September sun hung low ment along the trail for over 50 "Witness: None. It was too cold
over the jagged peaks and canyons years. His letters were addressed in tut. Coldest day I ever saw and
of the Slate range to the west. It cast rimes that were sometimes imbar- vind enough to run all the real
a coppery pink glow over the dusty rassing to the recipient. His claim state mills in Los Angeles."
desert spaces of Panamint valley. stakes bore such rimes as: Another of his filing notices
Joe Ward, prospector, poet and lescribed the locator as: "Joseph
singer of desert songs, was "Move on, my friend, Vard, Explorer. Partner to ColunibuJ
migrating from the north to spend This claim is mine, As the trio plodded on and ap-
the winter in Death Valley. The I drove this stake iroached Wingate pass, Thunder
sparrows might wait for the frost to In 1909." ind Lightning pricked up their
yellow the leaves before starting lusty ears. They evidently remem-
south but Thunder and Lightning, His filing notices in the recorder's >ered a favorite camping place near
Joe's two frisky young burros, had office at San Bernardino bear these i little spring. They had been
no wings and Joe had to allow for comments and many more: vithout water all day and it still was
their step-by-step progress. The lure "Witness: God or nobody, unless lot on the Mojave desert in the Mo-
of the desert and the search for its the other fellow was there in the lave desert in September. Just over
precious minerals led him over the volcano. he pass Joe led the way south to the
vast spaces of California, Nevada "Witness: Two fools and another >ld campsite. The spring was a mere
and Arizona but the Mojave desert one, myself, a crook. Also Jan >oze at this season but Joe, experi-
claimed most of his time. Smuts of Joburg and other nutts :nced in camp lore, used a rusty tin
His desert songs and salty rimes and a few sick Communists, also •an for a shovel and soon had a little
were favorite quotations among from Joburg, S.A. •eservoir into which the water
fellow prospectors and miners. He trickled. The burros drank thirstily.
left bits of poetry or caustic com-
20
Cars and locomotive operating on the mono rail carrying timber for the extension
of the elevated road bed. Thos. H. Wright, founder and president of American
Magnesium company, is fifth from left, in black suit.
Joe pulled the pack saddles off their Joe remembered that on previous
backs and left them to their own treks the burros had gone to the
devices while he gathered same spot to roll, so with a pros-
greasewood for his campfire and pector's curiosity he walked over
put the coffee on to boil. and took a sample of the white dust
As soon as the packs were off, which he sent to an assayer in Los
Thunder and Lightning ambled over Angeles. It proved to be magnesium
to a whitish deposit on the hill slope sulphate or, in plain words, Epsom
and rolled in the chalky dust to salts. The burros hadn't heard of
sooth their sweaty backs. After the healing properties of the spas at
rolling, grunting and kicking to Epsom, England; but they knew the
their hearts' content they struggled white dust healed-and cooled their
to their feet and wandered back to sore backs. Joe told other pros-
the campfire, looking in the twilight pectors that the white patch was
-"" «f w.~> R»;\ like two burro ghosts. They were nothing but plain Epsom salts, then
white all over except where their with his burros passed on down the
dark eyes peered out from under steep eastern slope of the pass.
fluffy white pompadours.
TO
21
Remains of mono rail road bed east oj Searles lake, showing type o\ earth surface
over which it was constructed.
22
Construction must have The first propelling power valley it never had seem-
began as soon as the pa- which was used during part of ed more beautiful, with
tent was issued, for En- the construction period, was desert sunflowers carpet-
gineering News, September a battery driven motor. This ing great patches and
27, 1923, has this item: failed to deliver enough pow- the sand reflecting the
"A magnesium sulphate de- er and was replaced by a blue of the sky. But
posit, owned by the Ameri- Fordson motored locomotive there was a threat of
can Magnesium Company and built on the same general summer heat in the air
Located near the Death Val- plan. At first the power was and it was time to mi-
ley Desert in Southern Cali- transmitted by rigid rods but grate north.
fornia, is to be tapped by a these were twisted on the
monorail railroad twenty - As they followed the
sharp curves and were soon
eight miles long, extending trail around the brow of
replaced by chain drives on
over the Slate Range to the the hill Joe paused in
both front and rear wheels,
Panamint Range. Of this amazement. It was his
This Fordson engine was used
line about sixteen miles has first glimpse of the
during the latter part of the
been completed and is carry- monorail writhing through
construction and for sometime
ing construction trains the pass like a monster
afterward but many locomotive
which are delivering materi- thousand-legged worm. At
difficulties were encountered.
als for continuing the road. the old campsite were
The braking system was a- buildings and a bustle of
"Although detailed costs nother headache on the steep activity. Around the camp-
are not available, the type grades. An engineer in a re- fire that night Joe told
of construction selected , cent letter about the mono- how Thunder and Lightning
which was chosen because of rail says,"I had one ride on first discovered the
the fact that it would re- the monorail as far as Win- Epsom salts.
quire very little grading gate Pass and was rather re-
and would permit sharp lieved to get back with a Early the next morning
curves, is estimated to cost safe skin, keeping a watch- when Joe had loaded the
about $7,000 per mile in ful eye on the braking burros and started on his
rough, mountainous country arrangements all the time." way, one of the workers
and about $5,000 in the de- picked up an old envelope
sert with no rock work or As the elevated road bed on the trail addressed:
sharp curves involved. crept out across the desert "This letter goes to
from the east side of Searles Harvey West,
"The construction con- Lake bed, timbers cut to the
sists of standard 6"x8" ties, A miner with gravy
proper lengths to conform to on his vest,
8 ft. long, placed on 8 ft. the contour of the land were
centers and braced on either He's living now,
carried on the cars and to escape the law,
side. The plumb posts carry lashed to the side of the
a 6"x8" stringer, which in At Little Rock,
engine. There were 10 per- in Arkansaw."
turn supports the single 50 cent grades and 40-percent
Ib. steel rail. There are curves so only five tons of The American Magnesium
also two side rails of tim- timber could be carried at a Company had hoped to haul
ber, carried by the braces, time. A cottage for the su- long strings of cars in
which act as guide rails, perintendent and a laboratory order to work a refinery
their vertical faces making were built at the mine site at full capacity.But the
contact with rollers on and the corporation began motors developed only e-
either side. operations. nough power to pull three
loaded cars. This diffi-
"The engine and cars are In the spring of 1924 Joe culty led to a contract
designed like pack saddles Ward, followed by Thunder and with A.U. Harrison, of
and are suspended on two Lightning, now sedate old Los Angeles, an automo-
wheels from the single rail, burros, climbed the western tive engineer, who plann-
motorcycle fashion. Equili- slope of Death Valley. The ed a gas-electric train,
brium is maintained by the old prospector had wandered consisting of an engine
rollers on either side which over Arizona and Nevada then and a generator to supply
contact with the timber spent the winter in the val- driving power for both
guide rails." ley. As he looked back on the the engine and the cars.
23
By the time the gas-
electric train, a heavy af-
The monorail line was a- ANSWERS TO THE DESERT QUIZ
bandoned and the timbers be-
fair, was completed the gan to feed the campfires of
desert heat had splintered prospectors. Junk men carri- 1. Anywhere on earth.
the timbers and loosened ed off the steel rails and
the bolts of the elevated 2. Laguna pueblo is on the
part of the stretch through bank of the San Jose
road bed. The wheels on Layton Canyon was carried a-
the wooden guide rails had River.
way by a cloudburst. The
worn them to shreds. The buildings at the mine be- 3. Quartzsite
structure would not carry came headquarters for the
the weight of the newly- 4. Skin of newly hatched
hunters of wild burros who
assembled train, And the Roadrunners is oily-
shot the burros, dried the
old locomotive would not carcasses and shipped them black, with a few stiff
furnish enough power to to fox farms all over the white hairs.
haul paying loads. country. These burros were 5. On a plateau northwest
the descendants of animals of Flagstaff.
Down at the Wilmington turned loose when prospec-
plant they found that the tors adopted automobiles as 6. Silicate of copper
deposit was nearly 50 per- a quicker means of transpor- 7. "Apartment house" con-
cent sand, debris and tation. This practice was structed by unknown
other salts, not then de- soon outlawed. Indians of the South-
sired. As the product was west .
refined and made into bath A few of the directors
salts the debris piled up kept the taxes paid in the 8. It is a translation
around the plant. The city hope that the government of their Indian name
authorities stepped in and might become interested in (Papah-oo-tam).
objected to the accumula- the magnesium sulphate and
tion of waste inside the 9. Coal Deposits
in some deposits of alumi-
city Limits. num sulphate from which a- 10. The Colorado River
There were legal trou- lum is made. San Bernardino 11. False. Lowest eleva-
bles as well. The mineral County records show that tion is at Badwater
claims in the Panamints the taxes were reduced from in Death Valley.
had been extended to cover $3000 annually to $28 in the
early 1930's. 12. True
1440 acres. These claims
were a source of disputes, 13. True
suits and counter suits. In Layton Canyon few of
Slick promoters had obtain- the upright timbers, which 14. True
ed control of much of the once supported the mono- 15. False. First to come
stock. Although more than rail, still are standing. were "Mountain Men"
a million dollars had been Bolts and nuts scattered who were mainly trap-
invested, it became evident along the route are gathei— pers. Some came as
that the mine could not be ed as souvenirs by trophy early as 1820's, long
operated at a profit. The hunters. If Joe Ward and before the discovery
promoters and directors who Thunder and Lightning could of gold.
had heavily invested them- come back to their old
selves, made every effort campsite now they could
to salvage something for camp for weeks without be-
the stockholders. But there ing disturbed. Thus the
were too many factors a- first monorail to be built
gainst them. Operations in California quietly pass-
were suspended early in ed from the scene. It was
1928. The property was of- Technology that defeated
fered for bids April 28, the monorail—the use of
1928. There were no buyers. wood that cannot withstand
Mr. Wright turned his in- the desert extremes along
terests over to the com- with an engine that was not
pany. tested before construction.
Adventures Along the
Unknown Colorado
(1826) by the Desert Staff
25
Map Hardy drew of the Colorado
River mouth. His "Rio Gila" is
the east or main channel of the
river today. West channel was
named Rio Hardy in his honor.
Timing *• IfW.
published by Arrowsmith of London, boiling up a full 18 inches above the had reached its peak of cultural
to guide him. The mapmakers, surface, and roaring like the rapids greatness and strength some SO
Arrowsmith, were unfamiliar with of Canada." years earlier. In 1775, they numbered
the northern Gulf and sketched in The BRUJA was caught in the about 3000, but by 1826, they were
that area from information supplied Colorado's tidal bore. This in steady decline. These tribesmen
to them by Indian pearl divers. phenomenon, only known to a few chiefly subsisted on a diet of corn,
However, this information was not rivers in the world, took Lt. Hardy melons, pumpkins, and beans,
verified. by surprise. He let the BRUJA drift which they cultivated. They were
A few miles upstream, the tide while all hands attempted a last thought to be less warlike than their
caught the BRUJA and swept it desperate effort to secure the rudder. cousins to the north, the Yumas, but
along "like an arrow at the rate of The vessel went fast aground, and when the occasion called for it, they
nine miles an hour. Ten yards from before he could order his men to turned into savage fighters.
the bank the helmsman took fright, pole the ship off the sand, the tide The morning after the ship had
the vessel smashed into a sand bank fell just as rapidly as it had risen. been caught in a gale, Lt. Hardy saw
and, with a tremendous crash the The BRUJA was left 200 yards from before him what he supposed
rudder was carried away. They had the water's edge. to be the mouth of the great River.
to work fast. A new storm fell upon All was made ready to ride out the Boldly he sailed forward-only to
them, and in a slashing rain, Lt. next tide, but to Lt. Hardy's great find a bay on the coast of Sonora.
Hardy ordered the ship secured in amazement, high water found them The lieutenant had served in the
the middle of the channel. A new still 150 yards from the river. They Royal Navy from 1806 to 1815, and
rudder was quickly constructed and would have to wait for a full moon his training as a British officer left
Hardy tied a rope around his chest and its crest tide. He considered him with excellent qualifications for
and dove under the ship to examine abandoning the ship, but decided making and recording scientific ob-
the damage. against it for he did not want some servations. He mapped the area and
"We waited . . . in the hope that, future explorer to encounter such a named it "Adair Bay "-the name it
at slack water, we might be able to "monument to our misfortune as bears to this day.
ship our rudder, but, in the Rio our abandoned vessel would have Two days later, after bucking a
Colorado, there is no such thing as presented." new storm, the Bruja found the Rio
slack water." However, the worst Now the BRUJA'S crew prepared Colorado's delta. Lt. Hardy reported:
was yet to come. for a danger equal to that of the Rio ". . . we saw an opening ahead,
"Before the ebb had finished Colorado: Indians. They were in which appeared to be the mouth of
running, the flood commenced, Cocopa territory. This small tribe the river; and both seas were
26
covered with a delicate green,
arising from the herbage growing on
the banks . . . the river had clearly
two, if not three mouths, and the
land on either side was very low . . .
having now lost all apprehension of
danger, we were proceeding forward
carelessly, when, to our astonish-
ment, we observed breakers close
under our bow. We immediately
hauled our wind on the starboard
tack, and, having cleared this new
danger, we again bore up, and
reached the entrance to the Rio
Colorado . . . here we came to an
anchor for the n i g h t . . . "
27
Indians, Lt. Hardy knew, almost Before the party departed, Lt. The interpreter answered that the
always welcomed traders. When a Hardy shot off a cannon, hoping it Capitan had made a "war speech"
trader was killed, it was years before would leave a lasting impression on to his people, reminding them that
another dared bring the esteemed the curious visitors-one that they the Great Spirit had given the care
wonders of the white man's world to would convey to their Capitan of the nation to the safe keeping of
the tribesmen. Grande. its chiefs; and that these were the
Next day, two Indians approached A few hours later another party leaders around whom the Indians
"One of them had also a small appeared. They explained that the should assemble with submission
quantity of raw cotton in a basket, Capitan had dispatched them to and a fixed determination to abide
which I presume he brought as a manifest his expressions of by their counsels.
present, as he gave it to me without welcome, and to embrace the As the Capitan was taking his
seeming to expect any return. I visitors and to offer to them the bows, Lt. Hardy ordered his men to
made signs to him to bring down great Capitan's protection. The begin trading. Commerce erased
cattle, but as he did not understand cannon shot had not been wasted. some of the tension. That night, Lt.
what I meant, I drew a cow with a One of the Indians, whom Lt. Hardy suggested that the Capitan
stick in the sand, which seemed to Hardy recognized as having been on and his interpreter remain on board,
convey my meaning, for he nodded the ship earlier, came forward and under the charge of sentinels.
his head in token of assent, pointing conversed with them in Spanish. Next day, the Capitan did Lt.
at the same time to the road by "This circumstance," Lt. Hardy, Hardy one better. Instead of
which he had come." wrote, "awakened a little suspicion, making war speeches, he held a
So far, so good. The word was and I determined to be very cautious council of war on the BRUJA's
out that Lt. Hardy was a trader. As in my future dealings with his deck with several of his sub-chiefs.
soon as the Indians were out of tribe." During the afternoon hundreds of
sight, he ordered a tightening of the The next day brought an incred- Indians swam across from the other
BRUJA's rather absurd defensive ible scene to the BRUJA'S side of the river. Several more sub-
position. An extra quantity of grape Lt. Hardy, the cultured English chiefs and an old woman joined the
was introduced into the cannon- gentleman stranded 200 yards from council.
ades, which could only be fired once the raging Colorado, was host to the "Her age could not, I think, have
because of the deck's angle of in- powerful Capitan Grande—who been less than 120, and her body
cline. The matches were lighted and used the tiny craft as a speaker's was more shriveled than I had sup-
placed in their proper situations, platform to address the hundreds of posed possible in a living creature.
and the crew's muskets carefully Indians who sat in the sand com- Her face was painted yellow . . . "
examined and "three buck shot pletely encircling the vessel. The deliberation gained impetus
added to their present charge." The After the talk, Lt. Hardy casually when the chief-of-chiefs, the great
boarding net was extended around inquired as to the import of the and powerful Cacique, joined it. Lt.
the vessel. oration just delivered. Hardy had to move fast. He trained
Next morning 13 Indians visited two blunderbusses on the warriors.
the ship. After making sure they
were unarmed, they were allowed Fishing village of San Felipe on
aboard. They showed great curiosity the east coast of Baja California.
in the ship's hull, masts and rigging. Hardy's charts indicate he sailed
At noon more Indians arrived and his small vessel near this beach.
the first 13 were ordered to
depart.One of the newly arrived In-
dians, whom Lt. Hardy judged to be
a sub-chief, cried out lustily,
"Bueno, bueno," as he approached
the vessel.
More Spanish than this, however,
he did not understand, but as soon
as he cast his eyes upon our diver,
also an Indian, he addressed him, as
as I afterwards learned, in his vern-
acular language, which is the
Yuma. We had thus, unexpectedly,
an interpreter . . . In reply to my
questions, he said there were no
horned cattle in his country, and
only a few horses. Melons, zandias,
pumpkins and maize, he said the
Capitan Grande would send down,
as soon as the true objects of our
visits were explained to him."
28
This had a "magic effect" on them, Lt. Hardy, suppressing a great
for the council immediately broke desire to laugh out in astonishment,
up. The Cacique departed with all replied with calmness:
except Capitan Grande, the inter- "I desired the interpreter to tell
preter, and the old woman. the Great Chief that I wished him
"Soon after this I ordered dinner every success in expedition against
on deck, and invited the remaining the Yumas; but that I could not
party." suffer the assemblage of armed men
An Indian whom he had met near our vessel; and that if such a
some days earlier, joined them. measure were attempted, I should The Englishman Hardy, one
" . . . finding his friends seated consider their intentions as hostile of ihe earliest explorers of the
round a tablecloth, and quietly toward myself, and should certainly upper Gulf of California and
devouring the good things which fire upon them." the mouth of the Colorado
had been laid upon it, he thought he Lt. Hardy's answer obviously River, left an invaluable record
too might look out for a spare berth, disappointed the Great Chief. of his New World adventures
which he attempted to do in the first Sulking, he departed from the ship. in a book published in 1829, the
place, by putting his foot, which That night no one aboard the year after he returned to Lon-
BRUJA dared sleep. Next day the don. Clear thinking and capa-
was still covered with mud, on the ble, Hardy twice escaped dis-
middle of our table." Indians assembled as usual, and "so
great was their number that they ex- aster on the Colorado: from the
This enraged Lt. Hardy, but his river itself, and from the Coco-
guests went on eating as if nothing tended along the banks of Ithe river pas who dwelled on its banks.
had happened. nearly £s far as the eye could reach .
Soon after the meal, all the In- . . "Tlie great CACIQUE did not
dians who had departed earlier make his appearance, but the
returned, the great majority of them CAPITAN and his interpreter were
still unarmed as ordered by Lt. busily forming plans" to lure Lt.
Hardy. Hardy away from the ship.
Capitan Grande pointed out to Lt. Hardy ordered the Indians out
his colleagues that they outnumbered of the area, and also suspended
the white men 500 to 1; that it would trade for six days. He needed this An armed youth stepped in. front
be a simple matter to drive the time, for his calculations told him of the departing woman and pre-
foreigners into the ship's cabin un- that the crest tide would be in then. sented her with his arrows.
der a hail of arrows; and once in The old woman who had been a "She gazed at him an instant'
that position, the Indians could dinner guest on the BRUJA, began then seizing the proffered arms, she
enter the vessel at its stern and shaking a leather rattle, accom- muttered something between her
secure the prisoners. panying this sound with a low hum. teeth, and threw them on the ground
The great Cacique grunted his Hearing her song, the despairing with the violence, apparently to the
approval to Capitan Grande's plan Indians became excited. They were great chagrin of all the Indians."
and called for the interpreter. being lulled into a war spirit! Their strategy spent, the Cocopas
And now, for the trap: It seemed, Lt. Hardy acted quickly. He fixed retired.
he told Lt. Hardy, that a neigh- his guns on the medicine woman The tide was steadily rising, and on
boring nation of Indians had at- and the CAPITAN, and sternly July 29,1826 (Lt. Hardy entered the
tacked the tribe the preceding ordered them to leave. Colorado on the 20th), the ship
evening, and besides killing a great As the old woman turned to go, moved into deep water.
number of men, had carried away Lt. Hardy, the diplomat, gave her The commercial consequences of
several women and children. To four leaves of tobacco and a narrow Lt. Hardy's explorations were
revenge this outrage, the great chief strip of red cloth which she immedi- fruitless. He found neither rich
was determined to march all his ately tied around her head to bind pearl waters, sunken vessels or
warriors against the aggressors. But, together her muddy hair. precious metals. His journal is the
before he started he had a favor to Apparently, the gifts touched the real treasure to come from this ad-
ask of Lt. Hardy: could the Indians aged woman. venture.
please assemble, equipped with their " . . . with the expression of a sort
arms, in front of the vessel? In that of smile on her haggard counten-
way, he hastened to add, they could ance, she took my hand, and said,
make a formal and friendly farewell "Adios, adios!"
to the BRUJA and its crew.
29
The Pony Express in
Nevada by Desert Staff
30
STATION
\VAUBURN
r1 ^ost. Joseph i L
M0.\ i
ATTLE MOUNTAIN
i f c V SCHILL CREE
'imvADAm^h
UTAH'
31
DAYTON
Town originally called
Chinatown. Station was located
first at Spafford Hall's Station.
Later moved to site of Union
Hotel. No ruins remain.
MILLER'STATION
Later known as Reed's
Station. No ruins remain but site
is approximately 8 miles from
Dayton along the old river road.
FORT CHURCHILL
Site now a state park. See
DESERT, October 1983. No ruins
remain from the Pony. Located 8
miles south of Silver Springs.
Fort Churchill as it
appeared in 1984.
32
BUCKLAND'S STATION
Only a mile from Fort
Churchill. Used prior to the
opening of the Fort. Site now
known as Weeks. No Pony ruins
remain.
CARSON SINK
Named for the area where the
waters of the Carson River
"sink" into the ground. Was a
large station with 4 or 5
buildings. Very little remains
today-outlines of walls are *.->.-
barely visible. » ,•,-,,*
SALT WELLS The Meadow by the Carson
A station maybe. Listed in River at Buckland's Station.
research by Nell Murberger, but
not by others. Site was east of
Fallon approximately where
Highway 50 and the Pony route
join.
SAND SPRINGS
Named for the drifting
mounds of Sand located there.
Sited location is unknown but is
suspected to be just off High-
way 50 at the Sand Mountain
turnoff.
MIDDLE GATE
Another possible station.
Again listed by Nell Murburger.
Located midway between Sand
Springs and Cold Springs. Actu-
al site unknown.
COLD SPRINGS
Located about 1'/» miles east
of Highway 50 at a point 59
miles east of Fallon. Some ruins
remain-a rock one 55' x 135'
with 2 foot thick walls, corral,
etc.
33
RUBY VALLEY
< JmMi No ruins remain at sites.
Station was moved to Elko for
use in a museum display.
MOUNTAIN SPRING(S)
Not an original Pony Express
Station. Built around July 1861
for the Overland Stage. Used by
the Pony for only 4 months. No
ruins remain and site is on
SAND SPRINGS "FAIRVIEW private property.
BUTTE STATION
Site is on the east side of the
Butte Mountains overlooking
Butte Mountain. Some stone
foundations remain and the
ruins of a large fireplace that
"QUARTZ " •••>.„.
served the station.
MOUNTAIN
37
could have been the tar- Years later, an old However, in the 1920's,
get range. Indian came to the valley cowboys reported finding
of Ojo Caliente. He six old Mexican pack
White the fort deter- claimed he had been raised saddles in a cave near
iorated rapidly after its with Geronimo, had known the fort. Many area re-
official abandonment in of the Apache Gold Mine, sidents believe a for-
1882(?) several buildings and now, after the pass- tune in gold still lies
were repaired and used by ing of Geronimo and most buried in that cave
families for living quart- of his band, had return- or in the immediate vi-
ers around the turn of the ed to find it. The old cinity. Who really
century. By the early Indian described the en- knows? Fort Ojo Caliente
1920's, these squatters trance to the mine tun- is silent now, her se-
left and Fort Ojo Caliente, nel as being under a crets slowly disappearing
now plain Ojo Caliente, white rock that looked into the soil and sand
became the social center like a white cow stand- of New Mexico and the
of the area. Ranchers and ing in the brush of a history books of another
their families would hillside. He searched time.
gather there for weekly for several years, but
square dances. never found the lost
Apache Gold Mine.
During the depression
days of the early 1930's, Another legend has it
residents of the valley that a missing fortune
stripped lumber from the of gold lies buried near
fort building's roofs to Water Witching
the fort six mule No Water . . . No Charge
repair their homes and loads of gold buried by Also, we Dowse
ranch buildings. The old Mexican vaqueros. In for Minerals and Oil
fort was a good source the early 1800's, so
of free lumber as people the legend goes, the CHARLES W.
didn't have enough money
to buy building materials
Mexicans were packing SHAW
the gold from Santa Fe
in those depressed times. (619) 262-2260
to Sonora when they were
1205 46th St., San Diego, CA 92102
attached by Apaches.
Ojo Caliente also has After a running battle,
its share of legends the Mexicans temporari-
stories that are hard to ly eluded their pursuers CLASSIFIED ADS
prove or disprove. One and buried the treasure
tale concerns Geronimo in a shallow cave in a * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
while he was a prisoner canyon near the ruins of
at the Fort awaiting WESTERN & Latin Americana
an Indian pueblo. They Sepd $1.00 for rare book
transfer back to Arizona. turned their mules loose catalogue.
The Apache leader report- and fled on foot. Jane Zwisohn
524 Solano Drive NE
edly offered to fill a Albuquerque, New Mex.
Only one of the va-
room at the fort with 87108
gueros lived to read
gold within 24 hours in
Socorro, north of the **************
exchange for his free-
fort, and on the east
dom. The Indians knew MAGAZINES FOR SALE:
side of the San Mateo Desert, Treasure, Western
of a rich mine some-
Mountains. Before he rare back issues for sale.
where close by and could Send want list to:
died of his wounds, he
reward anyone who would Harold Moody
gave a map of the trea- Box 803
give them their freedom.
sure site to a man named Project City, Cal. 9607°
No one knew these hills
Flores who searched many * * * * * * * * * * * * *
and mountains as well as
years for the cached
the Apache and they told
gold, without success.
their secrets to no out-
sider.
38
Calendar of Western Events
AUGUST 11, 1984 AUGUST 31-SEPT. 3, 1984
The Colorado State Gold Panning Coconino County Fair, Ft. Tuthill,
Championship, sponsored by Gold Arizona.
Prospectors of Colorado will be held
along with a mining fair and exhibits SEPTEMBER 1-3, 1984
at Fairplay, Colorado.
Wildwest Days, Tombstone, Arizona.
AUGUST 11-12, 1984
Goldfield Treasure Days, Goldfield,
Nevada; Parade, Silver and gold hunt, Sourdough Days Fair, Sutter Hill,
much more. California. (Just north of Martel,
California); Arts and Crafts show,
AUGUST 17-19,1984 a tour of the famous Kennedy (Gold)
Churchill County Fair, FalIon,Nevadat Mine in Jackson, more.
Features pig races, mucking contest,
tractor pull, more.
39
DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP
DEATH VALLEY'S VICTIMS A PECULIAR PIECE OF DESERT
by by
Daniel Cronkhite Lulu Rasmussen 0'Neal
A descriptive chronology of The only history we know of that
the deaths, disasters, etc. of covers the story of California's
the Death Valley region from Morongo Basin and towns of Morongo
1849-1980. Has a photographic Valley, Yucca Valley, 29 Palms, etc.
section with some graphic ill- Has chapter on the mines, geology,
ustrations of the harsh results flora and fauna, much more.
of a mistake in Death Valley
and a good number of photo's of Paperback 208 pages $12.00
Death Valley personalities
Scotty, Dad Fairbanks, Shorty PLACE NAMES OF THE
Harris, etc. DEATH VALLEY REGION
77 pages, paperback $10.00 by
THE 20 MOLE TEAM AND ITS T.S. Palmer
FAMOUS DRIVER, BORAX BILL A paperback reprint of a very
A reprint of an original book- scarse book. The original print-
let (4%" x 6-) by the Pacific ing was limited to 200 copies.
Coast Borax Company. Feature a Lists names of people, places,
picture of Borax Bill, 20 Mule things, etc. for the region, gives
Team in Death Valley. location, origin of name, earliest
known source. A valuable reference
Shipping on this booklet only 75* work for the Death Valley fan.
$1.50
$7.50
ARIZONA ADVENTURE
by
Marshall Trimble
An action packed collection of
true tales of early Arizona includ-
ing lost mines, history, cowboys
and much more.- Desert Magazine Book Shop
A Gift of Books Will Be Remembered Long After
$5.00 the Occasion is Forgotten.
| Name
| Address .
CALIFORNIA FAVORITES COOKBOOK I City -State- -Zip-
I enclose $_ _(check, money order or charge)
Compiled by
MY CHARGE- D
Al and Mildred Fischer
Credit Card No.
A collection of more than 400 Expiration Date MasterChnrge [
California inspiral recipes Month A'ear Z Interbank No. I
covering such topics as Fruits, Signature
Early California, Sea Foods, Wine (charge not valid unless signed)
Cooking and more. *~ ,.«
ARIZONA COOKBOOK
Compiled by
is add 6% sales tax
Al and Mildred Fischer Postage/handling Sl.SO
TOTAL
A collection of over 350 authentic Ordering Injonnation
Arizona recipes including Indian Cooking, t i e the CMNvnwnc order fiirm Print all information
Si w p w u « and handim* pn order, NOT « k
Vimiallv
«n
* e ship within *8 hours of recemnK sour order
Cactus, and Outdoor cooking. reijuinnu j deliven address and NOT a box number
Ml orders shippeu in padded containers or canons \ d d
California residents please add h".. vales las Prices are
'uniec! lo change and supplies limitd 10 available stock
1938
1939
$80.00
80.00
Rock Shorty
of Death Valley
1940 75.00
"There comes that dude pros- to start a chicken ranch over on
1941 75.00 pector again," remarked Hard Eight Ball crick. Bill bought
Rock Shorty as a shiny new one o' them incubators an' a
Model T stopped in front of the lotta eggs an' soon had several
1942 75.00 Inferno store and the driver ap- hundred chicks in the pen he
proached the lean-to porch where built for 'em. Then one night
1943 75.00 Shorty and a couple of other old- them snakes found a hole in the
timers were taking turns reading fence—an' the next mornin' Bill
1944 70.00 a three-week-old newspaper. wuz outta the chicken business.
The newcomer was decked out "But Bill is a stubborn cuss
in a plaid shirt, well-creased rid- and he figgered he would out-
1945 70.00 ing breeches and polished leather smart them snakes. He ordered
puttees. a couple a hundred more eggs,
1946 60.00 "I thought Death Valley was but fergot to put a fence around
full of snakes," the visitor greeted the incubator, an' the next morn-
1947 60.00 them, "but I haven't seen one in' the eggs wuz gone.
yet. What's become of them?" "That made Bill plenty mad.
Obviously the question was 'I'll fix them consarned reptiles,'
1948 60.00 directed to Hard Rock. "Ain't he exclaimed. So his next order
seen one for years!" Shorty re- wuz fer a big batch o' them china
1949 50.00 marked without looking up from nest eggs.
his newspaper. "He put 'em in some nests in
1950 42.00 But the dude was curious. the pen, an' then fixed the hole
"What kind of snakes were they? in the fence so it wuz barely big
Were there any sidewinders? enough fer a snake to squeeze
1951 35.00 What became of them?" the vis- through. An' the next morning
itor persisted. there wuz 43 big rattlesnakes in
1952 35.00 Shorty paid no attention at the pen, each with a bulge in the
first, but when the stranger kept middle o' him. Them snakes'd
prodding him he finally laid down swallered the eggs and couldn't
1953 30.00 his newspaper in disgust. digest 'em—an' the bulge wuz
"Sure, I'll tell yu what hap- too big to go through the hole.
1954 28.00 pened to 'em," he said. "Bill caught so many snakes
"Death Valley usta be over- that way he lost count — and
1955 28.00 run with big rattlers. Millions skinned 'em and sold their hides
of 'em. An' they wuz big fightin' fer making fancy belts an' pocket-
reptiles. They'd come right in books. 'Fore the summer was
1956 25.00 the house an' take grub off the over he'd made more money
dinin' table. They wuz always sellin' snake skins than he coulda
1957 25.00 hungry. made outta raisin' chickens.
"That's the way it wuz back "An he'd be doin' it yet, only
in '15 when Pisgah Bill decided he ran outta snakes."
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