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09 INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC CONFERENCE

20 – 21 November 2009, GABROVO

OPTIMIZATION OF DESIGN WORK FLOW

Danijela Paunovic
The College of Textile-Design, Technology and Management, Belgrade

Gordana Colovic Maksimović Nikola, Vesna Marić

The College of Textile-Design The College of Textile-Design
Technology and Management, Belgrade Technology and Management, Belgrade

Abstract:
Modern design in conditions of JIT, QRS and LEAN concepts requires an optimal time when designing and
redesigning the clothes. On example of sports pants optimization is made for time spent on designing, pattern making
and virtual sewing, The parameters of the textile surfaces which are simulated on sports pants modules provide in a
short time interval unlimited number of variations. Change of fashion trends require flexibility of design work flow, and
its optimization in each segment allows for a multiple increase in productivity, as well as the possibility of entering the
contemporary fashion market.

Keywords: design, pattern making, 3D, optimization

INTRODUCTION communication and environment in order to

Apparel technology has experienced radical
changes caused by technological development,
automation of production processes, computer
applications and the occurrence of competitive
international garment producers (China, India ...).
In the production of textiles, which are
inevitably moved to the east of the country,
clothing industry still exists as a specific,
dominant and leading European fashion
industry (Paris, Milan, Rome ...). In the EU
there is a clear commitment to achieve
primacy not released, and a prerequisite for the
full satisfaction of all customers from the
standpoint of quality clothing products with an
increasing emphasis on design as an important
component of quality.
In the modern fashion industry's most
successful manufacturers are those that have
organized professional teams for the design
and marketing, as dictated by the cycle of
current fashion and easily introduce new
fashion designs, thus surprising the
competition.
Design is an interdisciplinary integration of
art and technology to create products,
meet human needs [1]. The influence of
fashion dictated by fashion designers
everywhere in the world is very important for
the design of apparel products. Process design
would not be necessary that there is no need
for the product and its sale. Without the
successful design, as important components of
quality garment products, he would not have
found its place in the market.
The research process of creating new
designs and quality clothing products includes
determining the actual needs of customers.
The process of creative designers improve the
concept of research interest includes design,
customers and profits and Contemporary
design tends line geometric form and
aerodynamic surfaces loaded requirements and
mass production. This is not the case with the
fashion industry dictates that a large number of
different styles and models with unlimited
structural parameters of the textile surface are
made of wear. On one side are producers who
want to achieve greater productivity and
standardization of products, and to
simultaneously meet the needs of consumers in

Международна научна конференция “УНИТЕХ’09” – Габрово

terms of quality and diversity of products, and
the other side of the designers that their
designs and creativity to adapt and substitute
in the overall product quality. Designer’s
flows through activities gradually came to the
idea of the product and creating products and
thus they and their ideas materialize. Design
components are part of the overall product
quality, and it is crucial features of creativity
and overall design activity.
Design components that participate in the
research and creation of products can be
grouped and divided into:
• Research - design,
• Technical - functional,
• Aesthetic,
• Economic and Ergonomic.
Design, as a thought process involves the
creation of products and begins with the idea,
intuition and reason. The reality is complex
and elaborate structure activities, which
include:
• Identification of needs,
• The initial concept of how to meet those
needs,
• Development of initial concept,
• Analysis to determine whether the concept
and the extent to which meets requirements,
• Preliminary prototype form,
• Construction of forms,
• Implementation of various quality control
procedures,
• Sale of its value to the consumer,
• Provision of feedback from users.
because the quality garment creating objects
based on the successful fashion brand and
reputation in the market. Permanent changes to
the modules include creativity creative design
team.
Responsiveness to the frequent changes in
fashion trends (4 seasons) have led to changes
in marketing philosophy with the
manufacturers of fashion apparel. Different
methods of marketing research services to the
needs and desires of consumers, and creating
new products with designer names and certain
establishment fashion brand have become
imperative for manufacturers of clothing.
GARMENT PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
FROM THE ASPECT OF INDUSTRIAL
DESIGN
Good clothing products from the aspect of
production and consumption based on the
creative discipline - design.
The role of design as a creative discipline
and as a component of quality product is
contained in the fact that most products can
not be created without his action.
The paper based on the given basic tailored
women's pants in one day made virtual
prototypes of new models 8 jeans. We used a
3D software program Potties Company.

Market research should obtain the right

information on customer satisfaction and their
reactions to the proposed garments, in order to
obtain a basis for business in the future, define
the objectives and strategy of a company.
Phenomena and laws of modern production
line - the market must be kept under control.
The result should produce only those
products that the customer wants to buy and
pay. In the apparel you need to satisfy the
individual tastes of buyers, design and fashion
trends, ensuring individuality, resolve
questions durability, endurance and comfort, Figure 1 Virtual collection No1

Международна научна конференция “УНИТЕХ’09” – Габрово

 collection is shown in Figure 1 and 2 allow a
potential buyer of pre-defined desired product.

Previous product design

Previous product design actually means

developing the best design based on the best
new product idea solution. If the preliminary
design of the new product is approved, access
to prototyping or prototypes for the following
analysis. Often a conflict of interest occurs
when shaping the product arising from the
requirements of quality, costs and deadlines,
and products that should be on the market to
be competitive. In this case, eliminating the
time prototyping virtual sewing Figure 3.

Figure 2 Virtual collection No2

Creating ideas

Ideas arise in two ways:

(1) Due to information coming market
research, customer needs, or
(2) A consequence of new technologies.

Ideas arise as the market s response to

customer needs clothing products.
Identification of market needs can then lead to
the development of new technologies and new
products to meet customer needs. Ideas can be
conditioned by existing or new technology.
Various textile materials (water-repellent,
made with the help of nanotechnology, with
embedded chips, etc...) or a material that wants
a buyer or customer model is a source of ideas
for the development of new apparel products.
In this way, eliminate stocks of products.
Product Selection
Figure 3 Virtual sewing No1
Prototyping
He most commonly made several forms in
classical prototypes production in the period
from 7 to 14 days.
In contemporary design work flow this
procedure with trained engineers lasts shorter,
because the "needle" of the whole collection of
CAD system can do for 1 working day.

All ideas are not accepted as new products.

They must meet several tests, namely:

• Market potential;
• Financial feasibility and
• Product compatibility.

Analysis of choice of products can

sometimes be subjective in nature and based
on limited number information. Therefore, this Figure 4 Virtual sewing No2

Международна научна конференция “УНИТЕХ’09” – Габрово

 Testing
Market research usually lasts from 6
months to two years, and often geographically
limited (especially related to the
anthropological characteristics of the target
group). The purpose of market research new
product is to collect quantitative and
qualitative data on how consumers accept it.
The qualitative indicators are: particular
aesthetic, functional and ergonomic features.
The period of testing before the launch of the
collection is possible through the virtual
catalogue.
The final product design
The product to be quickly introduced to the
market need to design new products and
design processes takes place simultaneously.
INTRODUCING NEW PRODUCTS
TO MARKET
Decisions about the management of new
products are strategic, long-term investment
and character. The success of the introduction
of new products depends on several factors:
the idea of innovation, exorbitance market
competition activities. Stages of development
and introduction of new products are:
-collection and selection of ideas,
-evaluation of the concept of products,
-feasibility studies-business analysis,
-development of prototype products, test-
market mass-production
- preparing bids,
- launch and commercialization.
Stages of development of new products are
mutually dependent in the sense that, if future
new product does not meet the criteria for
justification of development at any stage, the
next phase of not going. Wind acceptance of
new products depends on:
-type products, the degree of visibility of
innovation, and the time of acceptance of
innovation.
It is significant to attract as many early
acceptors, especially those who are influential
and who follow fashion innovation.
Международна научна конференция “УНИТЕХ’09” – Габрово
According to "Vision and Influence"-the
study of corporate design group of IDC's
Industrial Design Society of America, came to
the following results in which the design:
- Product cost increases by 24%,
- Increase product sales by 47%,
- Increase the selling price by 32%.
The development of the domestic textile
industry influence fashion and modern design
apparel products, with a number of difficulties
such as small production series, numerous
trends with a variety of colour patterns, non-
standard size, too short delivery terms,
fragmented work orders, high quality, little
preparation time, or low price apparel
products.
In garment industry especially in the
fashion product, theoretically you could if
your product is different from the others, so he
just brings additional value to the selected
market segment. Although company is trying
to find what the customer wants, we often
refer to customers as a homogeneous and
essentially passive crowd. Products are not the
buyers, the main star (marketing) program, and
success is measured by sales volume or market
share.
Marketing of our most productive
organizations, and international organizations
that placed the technological and ecological
outdated products (the stores are placed
tailored clothing products obsolete, with poor
quality way of making) that should not and can
not pay, ranging from production.
Everything is directed to fulfilling the
business plan - Volume of sales and planned
participation in a particular market. Over time,
develop mutual dependence: the customer
becomes dependent on the retailer, which
gives information about the product, parts and
service, it allows selection of available
products, and provides satisfactory products in
the future, the seller depends on the customer
to buy just its products. Continuous mutual
relationship brings mutual benefit, particularly
vendor: cost is the cost-effective to keep
existing customers, rather than seek new ones.
The Japanese are such a complete quality
strategy following concept is actually
implemented TQM on marketing - permanent,
time-unlimited quality improvement:
 1. No time limit for the return link with
customers,
2. No time limit to improve the products,
3. No time limit for purchase (JIT),
4. No time limit for the preparation of
production,
5. No errors - zero defects.
Consumer needs are the focal point in
business. Marketing tends to be a product
available in the right place at the right time
and at a price affordable for the customer.
While the sale of concentrate to the needs of
vendors, marketing deals with the needs of the
customer, the seller needs to your product into
money, marketing thinking to meet the needs
and desires of customers through the products.
PPS must accurately define customer needs
from the perspective of the customer, not from
his standpoint.
The key to maintaining customer
satisfaction with its product or service, as
satisfied customers:
1. Re-buys,
2. Commendable tells others about the
product and organization,
3. Speaks less attention to competing
brands and their EPP,
4. Purchase other products from the same
organization.
There are great problems in our textile
industry in connection with the market survey,
keeping up with competitors, investments in
its own development, creating original designs
and scientific approach to the introduction of
new products to the market. Therefore the first
step is the survey of consumers, learning the
facts about the sale and the estimate of fashion
trends. It is also necessary to establish size and
consumers' purchasing power, how suitable the
garments are for our market, to eliminate
weaknesses in sale channels, distribution and
promotional activities. [2]
The coordination of fashion designers'
solution of ideas, possibilities to prepare
construction, objective analysis of technical-
technological possibilities of firms and
management teams gives a chance to get to the
strategy that will bring expecting placement
and sale of goods on a fashion market for a
long time in merciless competition that exist in
fashion industry.
Международна научна конференция “УНИТЕХ’09” – Габрово
CONCLUSION
Based on the results and conclusions of
individual can be stated justification of
investment in new software packages that
allow:
•Humane, easier and faster operation.
•Reduce employee fatigue.
•Increase production of quality garments.
• Reduce delays, errors and failures.
•Shortening the time of making clothes.
•Reduced cost per unit of product
In addition to automation of production
processes and reduce costs in the market
perceived the advantages of CAD and other
technologies:
- Improved flexibility accelerates the
construction preparation and implementation
of modular production system.
- Reduces the time development of
technical documentation.
- Eliminate the need for creating multiple
models. The process of preparation chronic
components accelerates accuracy increases of
work.
- Reduces the repair and finishing during
the manufacturing process. Standardize
products and permanently stored.
- Increased sales due to shortening delivery
time.
- The labour force is reduced up to 40%.
- Image of the company is increasing due to
use of CAD technology.
- Optimization of design work flow is the
possibility for success.
- Application of CAD-systems is also
contributing to the development of intelligent
manufacturing process of clothing.
REFERENCE
[1] Пауновић, Д., Ђуричић, М., Савановић., Г.,
2007., Утицај моде и дизајна на савремене
производне системе у одевној индустрији,
ЈУМПА, јун, Златибор
[2] Paunović D., Čolović G., 2005., The
application of swot analysis in designing of
garments, Meanagament, issue 37, Year X,
June
[3] Stylios, G.K., 1995., Intelligent textile and
garment manufacture, International Jurnal o
Clothing Science and Tehnology , volume 7,
No 4
[4] www:http//www.optitex.com