Technoguide for Ampalaya Production Part 1

I. Introduction

Bittergourd (Momordica charantia Linn.), ampalaya in Tagalog or parya in
Iloko, is one of the most important commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in
the country because of its nutritive and medicinal value. The fruits contain
calcium, phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates, and vitamins A, B, and C.

Advanced commercial cultivation of ampalaya used to be concentrated in
Regions III (Central Luzon) and IV (Southern Tagalog). Although Ilocos Norte
had the 5th biggest harvested area in 2001 (BAS), production was largely
traditional yielding only about 6 tons per ha. Recent claims that ampalaya
helps cure diabetes have boosted market demand and encouraged many
Ilocano farmers to modernize its cultivation.

Two types of ampalaya are being grown locally. One is the long, dark green,
and less warty type; the other is the short and warty, and more bitter pinakbet
type. The crop can be planted anytime of the year. However, it is best to plant
in July and August (wet season) for better prices, and in October (dry season)
to take advantage of available soil moisture.

II. Varieties

It pays to select varieties which are high-yielding, early-maturing, tolerant to
pests and diseases, adapted to local climatic conditions, and easy-to-sell. The
following varieties were tested in Currimao, Ilocos Norte from wet season 2005
to dry season 2007:


Variety Maturity Fruit Characteristics Other
Characteristics
Galaxy
F1
45-50
DAS
dark green, 33 cm
long
tolerant to virus

Bonito
F1

40-45
DAS
improved native,
dark green, only
15 cm long
tolerant to virus, early-
maturing, high yielder,
best for pinakbet
Sta. Rita
55-60
DAS
light green, 28 cm
long
tolerant to downy
mildew
Sta. Fe
F1
48-53
DAS
light green, 34 cm
long
tolerant to downy
mildew
Makiling

55-60
DAS

light green, 33 cm
long
strongly tolerant to
downy mildew Mayon
F1

50-55
DAS

light green, 33 cm
long
tolerant to virus and
downy mildew
DAS Days after sowing




III. Land Preparation

Plow clayey and weedy elds at least twice to help eliminate weeds, hibernating
insect pests, and soil-borne diseases.

The best time to plow the eld is when a ball does not form when the soil is
squeezed by hand and only a thin lm of the soil sticks to the ngers and palm.
Plow at a depth of 15-20 cm.

Harrow twice to break the clods and level the eld. A well- pulverized soil
promotes good soil aeration and enhances root formation.

IV. Raising SeedlingsAmpalaya can be directly seeded or transplanted.
Transplanting is recommended for hybrid seeds, and for off-season planting to
minimize the exposure of young plants to unfavorable weather conditions and
reduce plant mortality.

Follow these steps in raising seedlings in plastic trays.

1. Pre-germinating the seeds:
The ampalaya seed coat is hard and waxy. It takes 7-8 days before the seed
germinates. Emergence can be hastened by pre-germinating the seeds. An area
of 1000 m2 (tenth of a hectare) requires about 120 g of seeds. One gram (g)
contains around 5 seeds.

Ampalaya seeds


a. Cut the longer tip of the seed with a nail cutter to facilitate absorption of
water.


cutting the seed tip

b. Soak the seeds in water for 30 minutes. soaking seeds.


soaking seeds

c. Spread the seeds in a wet, clean cotton cloth for a more uniform absorption
of moisture, and roll the cloth.


wrapping seeds

d. Incubate in a safe dark place until the radicles come out, which takes 2-3
days.

incubating seeds

e. Wash the seeds everyday to prevent fungal growth. Seeds germinate easily at
250C to 300C (normal room temperature); longer when temperature is low or
cold.

2. Preparing the sowing materials:

a. Prepare the following sowing medium.
2 parts rice straw compost
4 parts carbonized rice hull (CRH)
1 part processed chicken manure (PCM)

sowing materials

b. Mix the materials thoroughly.


mixing the medium using a garden shovel

c. Fill the holes of the tray with the medium, and slightly compact it using your
palm.


lling up seedling trays with the sowing medium

d. Use a seedling tray with 100 or 104 holes. The volume of medium in each
hole contains enough nutrients to sustain the seedling until transplanting
time.

seedling tray

3. Sowing:a. Sow one pre-germinated seed per hole of the plastic tray at a
depth of 1.5 cm.

Proper sowing of seeds
b. Cover the seed with enough medium.

covering trays


c. Water the seeds using a sprinkler with ne droplets.
d. Cover the tray with old newspaper, plastic sack, or rice straw to maintain
soil moisture and temperature.
e. Remove the cover as soon as the seeds have sprouted.

4. Caring for and maintaining the seedlings:

a. Place the trays on the platforms of a simple nursery.
b. Roof the nursery with transparent plastic sheets during the rainy season;
plastic nets or chicken wire during the dry season. The nursery minimizes
exposure of the seedlings to extreme hot weather, heavy rains, and protects
them from stray animals.

seedling nursery

c. Water early in the morning and afternoon. Apply less water during rainy and
cloudy days. The seedlings weaken and elongate with too much water.

Ampalaya seedlings
Technoguide for Ampalaya Production Part 2
V. Construction of Planting Beds and Furrows

1. With plastic mulch

Construct two planting beds 0.5 m wide and 20 cm high each. Provide a 4.0 m
space between them for the trellis. Provide 0.5 m space between the two
adjacent beds (refer to Fig.1) to serve as canal for furrow irrigation, or drainage
for excess water during rainy season.

Fig.1 Field layout when using plastic mulch

2. Conventional method (no mulch)Construct a pair of furrows (dry months)
or ridges (rainy months) 4.0 m apart. Construct the succeeding pairs of
furrows/ ridges parallel to the rst, and provide a 0.5 m space between each
pair of furrows/ridges (refer to Figures 2 & 3).

Fig. 2 Field layout for conventional method using ridges


Fig. 3 Field layout for conventional method using furrows

VI. Fertilizer Application

Collect soil samples for analysis at the nearest Soils Laboratory. Apply
fertilizers based on the results of the analysis. Otherwise, use the following
recommended rates:

applying fertilizer
1. With plastic mulch

Basal

Apply the following fertilizers every 10 linear meters of the planting bed:
1 kg PCM or any commercial organic fertilizer
1 kg ammonium phosphate (16-20-0)
0.40 kg ammonium sulfate (21-0-0)
0.20 kg muriate of potash (0-0-60)
Cover the fertilizers with soil, or mix them thoroughly with the soil in the bed.

Sidedress

Drench 170 ml (1 small can of sardines) of fertilizer solution per hill. Prepare
the drenching solution by thoroughly dissolving the fertilizer in water. Refer to
the table below for the recommended schedule, and source and amount of
fertilizer to apply.

2. Conventional method (unmulched)

Basal

Apply every 10 linear meters:

1 kg PCM or any commercial organic fertilizer
1 kg 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate)

Cover the fertilizers with soil or mix them thoroughly with the soil in the bed.

Sidedress

Sidedress at two points 20 cm away from the base of the plant until 6 WAT. At
9 and 12 WAT, dibble the fertilizer at the midpoint (50 cm) between plants
along the rows. From 15 WAT onwards, broadcast the fertilizer between
adjacent furrows or ridges, then irrigate. Refer to the table below for the
recommended schedule and source and amount of fertilizer to apply.

For both mulched and unmulched ampalaya, apply at least 20 kg compost and
3 kg CRH/10 linear meters to improve soil fertility, aeration, and moisture
retention.

VII. Plastic Mulching

The use of plastic mulch to cover the beds is an improved technology for
ampalaya production. It controls weeds, preserves soil moisture, prevents soil
erosion, minimizes leaching of fertilizers, and reects sunlight to repel insect
pests hiding under the leaves.

The net income from ampalaya with plastic mulch of one farmer- partner in
Currimao, Ilocos Norte during wet season 2006 was higher by 30% than
unmulched ampalaya. Mulched plants had better crop stand and yielded
higher.

without plastic mulch with plastic mulch
1. Setting up the plastic mulch:a. Cut the material lengthwise to make 0.6 m
wide sheets.

setting up mulch
b. Stretch the plastic mulch over the planting bed, with the silver color on top.

fastening mulch
c. Fasten the edges of the plastic mulch to the soil with bamboo slats spaced 1
m apart.

If bamboo slats are not available, cover its edges with soil using a rake, or by
passing a moldboard plow near the edges.


2. Making the planting holes:

a. Measure 1.0 m planting distance along the center of the plastic mulch and
mark the spots.
b. Make the holes following any of these three ways:
Using a serrated-lipped tin can: cut the lip of a 7-10 cm diameter tin can
with metal scissors to form 1-cm long saw- like edges. Push the can on
the marked planting spots of the plastic sheet, serrated side down.

making holes with serrated tin can
Using a hot tin can: punch small holes using a nail at the sides and
bottom of a 7-10 cm diameter tin can. Attach a wooden or bamboo
handle. Fill the can with burning charcoal. The small holes ventilate the
charcoal to keep it burning.

punching holes with a hot tin can
Using a cutter: cut intersecting lines 7-10 cm long to form + or x at the
marked planting spots. During transplanting, fold up the 4 aps to form
square planting holes.

making holes with a cutter
VIII. Transplanting

Flood the planting beds or furrows two days before transplanting to dissolve
the fertilizers applied and cooldown the soil under the plastic mulch.

1. Transplant 13 to 15 day- old seedlings, which should now have 2-3 true
leaves. Water thoroughly the seedlings in the trays to facilitate pulling and
avoid root injury.

Do not allow the seedlings to stay too long in the tray and overgrow. Old
seedlings will have poor root development.

seedlings for transplanting

2. Transplant only one seedling per hole preferably in the afternoon.

A 1000 m2 area (10th of a hectare) requires 500 seedlings, mulched or
unmulched.

In mulched beds, water the transplants with a seedlings for transplanting one
seedling per hole

sprinkler immediately after transplanting; in furrows and ridges, irrigate hill to
hill with an irrigation hose.

one seedling per hole
IX. Irrigation

Irrigate once a week during the dry season, and as needed during the wet
season. Irrigate every after fertilizer application.

X. Trellising

Ampalaya grows best with overhead trellis about 1.8 m high. The trellis must
be taller than the farmer to facilitate harvesting. Construct the trellis two
weeks after transplanting, as tendrils start to grow.

Erect madre de cacao or ipil-ipil posts at the 4 outer ends of the pair of
planting beds. Make the frame of the overhead trellis using bamboo poles.
Reinforce the structure with bamboo posts spaced 2-3 m along the length of
both sides of the trellis.

Tie strings, 45 cm apart, at the top and both sides of the structure parallel to
the length of the beds. Do the same across the structure to form the square
netting at the sides (vertical trellis) and on top (horizontal trellis) where the
plants will creep.

Use a nylon string that does not absorb too much heat and can be reused in
succeeding seasons.

ampalaya on trellis

ampalaya on vertical trellis

XI. Vine Training and Pruning

When the plants start to crawl, direct them toward the side (vertical) trellis. Tie
the vines to the vertical trellis until they reach the overhead (horizontal) trellis.

Prune all sideshoots or lateral vines that do not reach the horizontal trellis to
avoid overcrowding, favorable to nesting of pests. Also remove old and
unproductive vines.
Technoguide for Ampalaya Production Part 3
XII. Pests and their Management

1. Fruitfl y, Bactrocera cucurbitae (Coquillett), is the most damaging insect
pest of ampalaya causing 17% damage on fruits during WS 2006 in Batac,
Ilocos Norte. Farmers claimed more than 50% yield loss during the dry season
despite weekly spraying of chemical insecticide.

adult Bactrocera cucurbitae

The fruitfl y lays its eggs on young fruits which later hatch into small worms or
larvae that number 10-35 individuals per fruit. They bore into the fruits and
eat the fl esh and young seeds.

larvae feeding on ampalaya fruits
Symptoms of their presence include deformed fruits that turn orange or yellow
prematurely.

The fruitfl y is not easy to manage because the adult is a good fl yer and can
travel long distances.

unmarketable fruits infested with fru

The insect can be managed by removing regularly all damaged fruits every
harvesting time and burying them under the ground or decomposing them in
sealed plastic bags.

old and infested leaves and fruits decomposing in plastic bags

Wrap young fruits with old newspaper, plastic bags (ice bag), or used clothing
to prevent fruitfl ies from laying eggs on the fruits.

fruits wrapped in paper
2. Aphids, Aphis gossypii Glover, suck the sap of leaves. This results in
curling and yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, and even death of the whole
plant. More importantly, the aphid is a vector of the cucurbit aphid-borne
yellow virus (CABYV) which is similar to the namamarako disease in
ampalaya.

namamarako disease in ampalaya
The virus disease causes curling, thickening, and yellowing of leaves, signifi
cantly decreasing in female fl owers and consequently fruits. The virus disease
is managed by destroying infested plants to prevent further spread.

Monitor the plants regularly for the initial infestation of aphids. Remove the
leaves or uproot the whole plant if necessary. Control aphids by spraying water
or chilli-soap solution at high pressure that will dislodge the pests from the
plant, disrupting their life cycle.

Control the ants that carry aphids to the plants by spraying them with any
green-label insecticide like methomyl or carbaryl. Do not use pyrethroids that
are purely contact insecticides with no fumigating effects, hence cannot reach
the aphids underneath the leaves. Read the label and follow strictly the
instructions to avoid contamination.

The growth of sooty molds is an indirect damage due to the honeydew secreted
by the aphids. Such growth hampers photosynthesis that fi nally kills the
plant.

3. The leafroller, Diaphania indica (Saunders), rolls young leaves when the
foliage is dense especially during the vegetative stage. Too much nitrogen
fertilizer results in very dense and green foliage that favors the prevalence of
the pest. Its larvae could feed on fruits, making them unmarketable. Removing
rolled leaves and crushing the larvae can help control the pest, especially if the
area planted is not too big. Apply only the needed nitrogen fertilizer. In wide-
scale planting, a biological insecticide or stomach poison, halt, can be
sprayed late in the afternoon to control up to 3rd instar larvae only. Bigger
larvae cannot be killed. If no chemical spraying is done, wasps can kill up to
92% of the larvae.

XIII. Harvest and Post-harvest Handling

harvestable ampalaya
Harvesting starts within 30-40 days after transplanting, and can be done twice
a week. Harvest fruits according to the demand of the market. Harvestable
fruits are shiny, preferably 9-14 days from pollination. For the pinakbet of the
Ilokanos, harvest younger fruits. Harvest fruits early in the morning and
protect them from the sun, rain, and mechanical damage. Remove damaged
fruits and sort according to market standards. Pack in plastic bags, carton or
plastic crates. Fruits can be kept fresh for 3-4 days under this condition.

ampalaya for sorting and packing


ampalaya packed in plastic bags
Why invest in agricultural inputs?
Production or trade of agricultural inputs can be a rewarding investment
provided that some basic requirements are observed. Agricultural inputs refer
to goods and services used for the production of agricultural products.
Examples of these in crop production are seeds/planting materials, fertilizer
(either inorganic or organic), and pesticides. In livestock, examples of inputs
are feeds and veterinary products. Labor is an integral input in any agricultural
enterprise so that provision of labor can be viable enterprise in itself. For
instance in mango production, there are businesses which train and maintain
fruit baggers and offer fruit bagging service to mango producers. Provision of
service with farm machines such as tractors and threshers has also become a
good source of income.
This investment brief serves as a guide in starting up an enterprise which
would supply the needs of farmers for certain agricultural inputs. It provides
general tips to consider before embarking on the business.

General tips
Identify the investment opportunities in the area
Agricultural inputs support the production of certain agricultural outputs. It is
then important to first identify what are the major agricultural outputs in the
locality. This information can easily be obtained from the Municipal
Agricultural Office (MAO). In general, an agricultural input enterprise is more
profitable and sustainable if it supplies to the input needs of the major
agricultural products in the area.
Determine the current gaps in supply and demand
Potential demand for inputs in your locality can easily be estimated for certain
agricultural products. For instance, if you want to estimate the total fertilizer
requirement (e.g., 14-14-14) for palay in your municipality, you simply get the
information on total palay hectarage in your municipality and the average
number of bags of complete fertilizer applied per cropping. This information
can easily be obtained from the MAO. If total hectarage is 5,000 and the
average application of complete fertilizer is 4 bags/ha, then your municipality
needs at least 20,000 bags of complete fertilizer per cropping or 40,000 bags
per year assuming two croppings per year. The same estimation can be done
for other commodities which need complete fertilizer.
Supply can easily be estimated by discretely interviewing the current suppliers
of agricultural inputs in your municipality. Agricultural input traders (e.g.,
stores selling fertilizer, chemicals, feeds,veterinary supplies, etc.) are normally
located in the main municipal market or town capital. Absence of input traders
in your municipality clearly indicates that farmers are buying their inputs from
other towns. This means that putting up one in your municipality could be a
lucrative venture. However, when there are existing input traders, you have to
determine how much they are supplying and compare this to the estimated
demand. If the supply is less than the demand, there is a supply-demand gap.
This means that the existing market can still accommodate a new entrant.
Diversify your product lines
Have as many product lines as possible so that your business can serve as a
sort of a one-stop-shop for agricultural inputs. Farmers normally need several
types of inputs and they would prefer to purchase from a store where all their
needs can be met, both for convenience and to minimize their transportation
cost. Deciding on the proper mix of products can be guided by your estimates
of supply and demand gaps for each input. For instance, if certain chemical
insecticides that are commonly used in your municipality are in deficit then
you can have more of these products in your product lines.
Aim for consignment basis with your suppliers
It is common for input suppliers (i.e., companies and distributors) to agree on
consignment basis provided you are able to maintain good credit standing.
Consignment is highly advantageous since this will allow you to minimize risk
of losses associated with unwanted stocks. It may also enable you to have
many different products with minimum capital requirement.
Locate your business nearest the majority of your clients
The choice of location is crucial and can often define success or failure of your
enterprise. Most input traders are located in the town's center of commerce,
usually the main public market. Such location is usually critical, but not
always. As a general rule, it is more important to set up your business nearest
the majority of your clients for greater accessibility. It is also advisable to
choose a site nearest the terminal of the main means of transportation (e.g.,
tricycles or jeepneys) in your locality.
Aim for greater sales volume than high mark-up per product
One common fault in input trading is the tendency of traders to charge high
prices to maximize profit Actually, this practice leads to lower total profit
because total volume of sales decreases over time. It is always a better strategy
to keep the mark-up per product as low as possible to encourage clients to
patronize your products and achieve high sales volume.
Checklist for Cultural Management of Ampalaya with Mulch


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Planting Calendar for Ampalaya Cultivation with Mulch

Checklist for Cultural Management of Ampalaya without Mulch


Planting Calendar for Ampalaya Cultivation w/o Mulch



Amargoso (Ampalaya) Production
1 HECTARE
Item Quantity Unit Rate /Unit Value(P)
I. Gross income
Production
yield
30,000 kg PHP 23.00
PHP
690,000.00

TOTAL
PHP
690,000.00

I. Expenses
A. Operating
expenses

1.)Labor
Land
preparation

Plowing 5 MAD PHP 500.00
PHP
2,500.00

Harrowing
4 MAD PHP 500.00
PHP
2,000.00
Trellis
installation
60 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
12,000.00
Seed
sowing
10 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
2,000.00
Weeding 80 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
16,000.00

Cultivation
3 MAD PHP 500.00
PHP
1,500.00
Spraying 60 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
12,000.00

Irrigation
50 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
10,000.00

Harvesting and
Hauling
120 MD PHP 200.00
PHP
24,000.00

TOTAL LABOR
COSTS

PHP
82,000.00

2.)Material
Inputs

Seeds 4 kg PHP1,340/100g
PHP
53,600.00
Fertilizer

Ammonium
Sulfate
12 bag PHP 720.00
PHP
8,250.00
14-14-
14
16 bag PHP 1,120.00
PHP
4,480.00
16-20-
0
12 bag PHP 1,000.00
PHP
12,000.00

Chicken manure
10 ton PHP 500.00
PHP
5,000.00
Organic
Fertilizer
67 bag PHP 250.00
PHP
16,750.00
Foliar
Fertilizer
10 liter PHP 350.00
PHP
3,500.00

Chemicals
Decis-R 5 liter PHP 700.00
PHP
3,500.00
Methyl
ugenol
100 ml PHP 45.00
PHP
4,500.00
Cuprous
Oxide
1 kg PHP 2,100.00
PHP
2,100.00

Materials

for trellis
construction
Bocaue
poles
2,000 pc PHP 10.00
PHP
20,000.00
Wires
G.I.
wire #14
300 kg PHP 100.00
PHP
30,000.00
G.I.
wire # 18
100 kg PHP 100.00
PHP
10,000.00

Plastic string
100 kg PHP 90.00
PHP
9,000.00

Abaca string
10 sack PHP 600.00
PHP
6,000.00

TOTAL
MATERIAL
INPUT COSTS

PHP
188,680.00

3.)Irrigation
expense
P2,415.00

TOTAL
OPERATING
EXPENSES

PHP
270,680.00

B. Overhead
expense

Land
charge

PHP
10,350.00

Interest on
capital

PHP
37,796.00

TOTAL
OVERHEAD
EXPENSES

PHP
48,146.00

I. TOTAL
EXPENSES
PHP 318,826.00
II. NET
INCOME
PHP 371,174.00
III. RETURN
ABOVE
VARIABLE COST
PHP 381,524.00
IV. RETURN ON
TOTAL
EXPENSES (%)
116.42%
V. AVERAGE
PRODUCTION
COST(P/KG)
P10.60/kg
VI. BREAKEVEN
YIELD (KG)
13,822 kg

Abbreviations:

MD - man day, number of days that a man would require to
complete the operation in one growing season
MAD - man animal day, number of days a man and his animal
to complete the operation in one growing season

For more information, comments and
suggestions, please contact:


Prof. Abner C. Quiambao
Bryan R. Cruz
Institute of Agriculture Systems and Technology
DEPARTMENT OF ECONOMICS AND MANAGEMENT
Pampanga Agricultural College, Magalang, Pampanga 2012
Mobile number: 0916-358-5300
Landline: 3434-397
Email address: abnercq@yahoo.com


Ampalaya Production in the Philippines
Introduction
Ampalaya, amargoso or bitter gourd (Momordica Charantia Linn) is one of
the most important commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in the
country today. It has both nutritive and medicinal use. The fruit and
leaves of which are used as vegetable and the latter are further used as a
laxative for new born babies while the stem and roots as antidotes for
fever. They are rich in calcium, phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates and
vitamin B. It is also known to cure diabetes, arthritis, rheumatism,
asthma, warts, and ulcer.
The commercial cultivation of the crop is concentrated to Region II and
IV. Generally two types are being grown the Sta. Rita type, which is long,
dark green and less warty and the Pinakbet type which is short and warty
and much bitter in flavor.
Varieties
Variety Maturity (DAP)* Remarks
Sta. Rita strains 70-75 OP
Makiling 65-70 OP
Sta. Isabel 70-75 OP
Jade star (A, L,
XL)
60-70 F1 hybrids
Mayon 65-70 F1 hybrids
Million Green 65-75 F1 hybrids
Galaxy 65-75 F1 hybrids
* Days after planting
Climatic and Soil Requirement
Ampalaya thrives well in all types of climates but high yield can be
obtained during the cooler months because of more flower setting and
bigger fruits. It grows in low elevation area anytime of the year. The crops
grow well in any types of soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5. Higher yield however is
attained on sandy loam soil. Soil analysis is a must for commercial
planting.
Land Preparation
A good land preparation is very important in ampalaya culture. The field
should be well prepared, plowed and harrowed twice to remove weeds and
other plant debris in the field. Furrows are then made 3 meter apart.
Organic fertilizer is applied at the rate of 5 tons per hectare during land
preparation or a week before planting.
Plastic Mulching
An improved technology in the Philippines for ampalaya production is the
use of plastic mulch to cover the beds. Planting holes are bored into the
plastic sheet base on the planting distance. It offers number of advantage,
its control weeds, preserve soil moisture, prevent soil erosion and
leaching of fertilizers and reflect light, serving as repellant to insect
which hide under the leaves.
To use the plastic mulch, stretch it over the planting beds, with edges
held down by thin bamboo slats, staple well into the soil every 20 cm.
Punch holes at 50 cm between plants in the row and 3 meters between
rows.
Planting
Ampalaya can be direct seeded or transplanted. Direct seeding is most
common, a hectare of production area requires 2.5 to 3.0 kilograms of
seeds, Seeds are soak in water overnight or wrap in cheesecloth to
facilitate water absorption. Seeds are planted the following day or as the
radicle break. Transplanting can also be done specially when the seeds are
scarce and during off-season planting. Seeds are planted in small plastic
bags (1 seed/bag with soil mixture of 1:1 garden soil and
sand/compost/carbonized rice hull) and transplanted to the field when
the vine starts to grow. Pre- germinated seeds result in good seedling and
an even crop establishment.
Time of Planting
Early planting in some areas is usually done during the months of October
to December and the late planting are during the month of January to
February.
Rate of Planting
The rate and distance of planting use by most farmers is three meters
between furrows and 0.5 meters between hills with 3 seeds line at 4
inches apart. Other recommended spacing are: 30 m x 30 m with 1
plant/hill and 2.0 m x 0.5 m with 2 plants/hill.
Trellising
Bitter gourd or ampalaya grows best with overhead (balag type) trellis
about 6 ft high. A lining of bamboo poles with abaca twine as lateral
supports is done three weeks after germination. Lateral support of
bamboo poles are spaced three meters between furrows and two meters
between hills and the side support is place after the bamboo poles are
constructed. The horizontal support of abaca twine is place before the
vine reaches the top with a 6-inch mesh.
Abaca twine is use as a lateral and horizontal support because it does not
absorb too much heat however it is not reusable for the next cropping
season.
For plantation, the use of big wooden posts (kakawate or ipil-ipil) are dug
into the soil about 1.5 to 2 ft at the four corners of the field and the posts
are interconnected with G.I. wire stronger enough as main frame. The side
support is used to prevent breaking down of the trellis.
Vine Training and Pruning
Train the vines on the vertical trellis regularly by tying the vines to the
trellis. Lateral shoot/vine may be pruned every 4-5 days, leaving only the
main stem. Initial pruning should be done one month after planting or
when lateral vines appeared. Remove all lateral vines from ground level up
to the top of the trellis and all ineffective lateral vines above the trellis at
15 to 20 days interval.
Remove all female flowers below the overhead trellis. Allow branching and
fruiting on the overhead trellis. Fruits may also be allowed to form just
above the 10th node.
Water and Weeding Management
Ampalaya is a plant that requires an abundant supply of moisture for
vegetative and reproductive development to maintain a good crop stand
in the dry season. Furrow irrigation is done twice a week during
vegetative stage and once a week during the reproductive stage or before
each application of fertilizer. Weeding is done when need arises.
Fertilization
The use of organic fertilizer such as manure or compost about 5 to 10
tons per hectare with inorganic fertilizer is recommended. Apply basal
fertilizer at about 25 grams/hill of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) or 5 bags
per hectare. During dry season, sidedress 10-20 grams/hill of (urea 46-0-0)
and muriate of potash (0-0-60) once a month. However during wet season,
side dress 5-10 grams/hill of urea and muriate of potash every week.
Pests and Diseases Control
Powdery Mildew- It is cause by a fungus that appears as white powdery
growth on leaves. Crown leaves are affected first and may wither and die.
The fungus may be introduced on greenhouse grown plants or wind from
areas infected with the diseases. Disease development is favor by high
temperature.
Downy Mildew-A irregular shaped yellowish to brown spots appears on
upper side of the leaves, usually at the center of plants. Under moist
condition, a purplish mildew develops on the underside of the leaf spots.
Leaves die as spots increase it size. Spread is rapid from the crown toward
new growth. Moist condition favors the development of the disease.
Bacterial Wilt -The disease is characterized initially by wilting and drying
of individual leaves, which also exhibit cucumber beetle injury. Later,
leaves on one or more laterals or entire plants wilts. Wilted parts may
appear to recover at night, but they wilt on successive sunny days and
finally die.
Several kinds of leaf diseases attack the plant and can cause yield
reduction. Most often, the old leaves are affected; spraying of Fungicide is
a preventive measure. You can consult your local inputs dealer on how
and what fungicide to use. However crop rotation, field sanitation, and
the use of resistant varieties is also highly recommended.
Fruitfly- The fruitfly is one of the major insect pests of ampalaya. Adults
lay it eggs on the young fruits. The eggs later hatch into small worms that
starts feeding inside the fruits. Symptoms are deformed fruits, fruits with
holes that turn orange or yellow prematurely. The insect can be control
by removing all damage fruits from the field. Spray only after the removal
of the damage fruits with insecticides recommended by your pesticide
dealer. Wrapping young fruits with newspaper or plastic bags prevent the
fruit fly from laying eggs on the fruits. Wrapping reduce the use of
pesticides.
Thrips- it is a very small crawling insect on that stays on the lower side of
the leaves. It is recommended to spray during nighttime 2 t0 3
consecutive nights if infestation is severed. This was found to be very
effective time to spray. The pest hides during daytime and cannot be
control using contact insecticides. Neighboring plantation should also be
sprayed at the same time. Consult your input dealer on what pesticides to
use in controlling this pest.
Harvesting
Harvest when the fruits are green. Harvesting starts 45 to 50 days after
seedling. It can be done twice a week. Harvest early in the morning to
protect harvested fruits against rain, sun, and mechanical damage. Sort
fruits according to marketable standards, and remove damage fruits. Pack
in plastic or bamboo crates line with newspaper or bamboo leaves. Fruits
can be stored for 2-3 days under this condition.
Cost and Return Analysis Per Hectare
Activity Quantity Unit
Amount/Unit
(P)
Total
Amount (P)
Land preparation
A. Labor cost (200/MD)
Plowing 10 MD 200 2,000.00
Harrowing (2x) 8 MD 200 1,600.00
Bedding 8 MD 200 1,600.00
Manure
application
5 MD 200 1,000.00
Planting 2 MD 200 400.00
Mulching 6 MD 200 1,200.00
Fertilizer
application
Basal 3 MD 200 600.00
Side-dress 10 MD 200 2,000.00
Irrigation 40 MD 200 8,000.00
Trellising 50 MD 200 10,000.00
Vine
training/pruning
30 MD 200 6,000.00
Weeding 20 MD 200 4,000.00
Spraying 30 MD 200 6,000.00
Harvesting 60 MD 200 12,000.00
Miscellaneous 20 MD 200 4,000.00
Sub-total

60,400.00
B. Materials
Seeds 3.0 Kilograms 3,500.00 10,500.00
Animal manure 5 Tons 1,200 6,000.00
Fertilizers

14-14-14 5 Bags 700 3,500.00
46-0-0 8 Bags 800 6,400.00
0-0-60 2 Bags 700 1,400.00
Trellis

Bamboo post 2
uses
1,200 pcs 10 12,000.00
GI wire 4 uses 300 Kilograms 10 3,000.00
Abaca twine 200 Roll 50 10,000.00
Pesticides

5,000.00 5,000.00
Fuel and oil

6,000.00 6,000.00
Miscellaneous

5,000.00 5,000.00
Sub-total

67,800.00
II.Fixed Cost
Land rentals

7,500.00
Depreciation

Scythe (2 yrs) 5 pcs 12 63.00
Hoe (3 yrs) 3 pcs 125 375.00
Knapsack
sprayer (5 yrs)
2 pcs 800 1,600.00
Sub-total

9,538.00
Total Cost

137,738.00
Marketable yield of 10 to 15 tons hectare at
P15 per kilogram
Gross Income at 15
tons/hectare
225,000.00
Total Cost of Production 137,738.00
Net Income 87,262.00
References
Ampalaya Growing Guide, Agriculture Monthly Magazine. April 2001
Ampalaya Production Guide, Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forest
and Natural Resources. Department of Science and Technology.
Information Bulletin No. 156 / 2000
Estimated Cost and Return of Production of Fresh Vegetable for 2001.
Bureau of Plant Industry. Crop Production division.
M.E.C. Reyes. B.H. Gildemacher and G.J Jansen. PROSEA Vegetables.
Plant Resources of Southeast Asia. Siemonsma J.S. and Kasem Piluek
(Editors) Bogor Indonesia. 1994. pp 206-210
TECSON, AMELITA B., D.C. Reyes and R.T. Donato.1994. The effect of
Pruning on the Production of Marketable Fruits of Ampalaya and Upo. The
Philippine Journal of Plant Industry. Vol. 59., No. 3. Bureau of Plant
Industry, Manila. pp 29-36
Posted by System at 1:22 PM
Labels: Tips and Techniques, Vegetables