New!

ANECALC Help Guide

ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to
assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn
product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread
Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will
need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on
producing.

You do not need to have any special software on your computer
because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft

Excel

spreadsheets.

The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the
bottom used for the following:
INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program.
New!
ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.
New!
WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been
combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This
also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread
cost using other thread combinations.
mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to
millimeters.

STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET
- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an
existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar
garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis
on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new
Spreadsheet.

WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH
- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is
important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of
the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic
ANECALC spreadsheets:
Light Weight 2 to 4 oz weight fabrics
Medium Weight 5 8 oz weight fabrics
Heavy Weight 9 15 oz weight fabrics

The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom
thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate
the amount of thread consumed.
- For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the
sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many
rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the
length of the seam.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS
- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the
average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on
the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases,
you will not have to change this if you are using the correct
spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.
SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE
- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you
can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.
- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing
or seam width before selection the stitch.
(Ex. 504 -1/8 3 Thd Overedge).
- It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because
this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making
the seam.

NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH
- Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the
seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the
number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the
number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous
column to make the seam.
- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch.
This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch.
Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on
either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is
being produced.
- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket
with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch
are being used.

SPI
- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the
number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.
- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim
would be 8 spi. See A&Es technical bulletin on Selecting the
Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&Es website.

LENGTH OF SEAM
- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length
including seam margins but does not include chain-off.
- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches &
yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper
sheet is normally dependent upon the international location
and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups.
To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert
from meters to yards divide by .91.
- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000
yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a
5,000 metre put-up.
Many sewing operations have mirror components on each
side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left
pocket, etc.
ANE CALC Instructions (continued)
New!
ANECALC Help Guide
ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to
assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn
product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread
Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will
need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on
producing.

You do not need to have any special software on your computer
because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft

Excel

spreadsheets.

The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the
bottom used for the following:
INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program.
New!
ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.
New!
WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been
combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This
also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread
cost using other thread combinations.
mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to
millimeters.

STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET
- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an
existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar
garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis
on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new
Spreadsheet.

WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH
- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is
important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of
the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic
ANECALC spreadsheets:
Light Weight 2 to 4 oz weight fabrics
Medium Weight 5 8 oz weight fabrics
Heavy Weight 9 15 oz weight fabrics

The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom
thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate
the amount of thread consumed.
- For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the
sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many
rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the
length of the seam.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS
- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the
average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on
the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases,
you will not have to change this if you are using the correct
spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.
SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE
- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you
can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.
- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing
or seam width before selection the stitch.
(Ex. 504 -1/8 3 Thd Overedge).
- It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because
this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making
the seam.

NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH
- Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the
seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the
number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the
number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous
column to make the seam.
- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch.
This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch.
Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on
either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is
being produced.
- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket
with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch
are being used.

SPI
- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the
number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.
- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim
would be 8 spi. See A&Es technical bulletin on Selecting the
Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&Es website.

LENGTH OF SEAM
- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length
including seam margins but does not include chain-off.
- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches &
yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper
sheet is normally dependent upon the international location
and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups.
To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert
from meters to yards divide by .91.
- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000
yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a
5,000 metre put-up.
Many sewing operations have mirror components on each
side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left
pocket, etc.
- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then
double the measurement for the seam length.
BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY
- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is
made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the
number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and 1
under SPI and 1 under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops
10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).

HIDING ROWS
- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50
operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.
- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the
Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand
margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just
above the Totals.




- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

INSERTING A NEW ROW
- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.















- Next, right click and select Copy.
- Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.
- You will now have two identical rows of one above the other.
- Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just
added.














- Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu.
- Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,
change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.
















ANE CALC Instructions (continued)
- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then
double the measurement for the seam length.
BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY
- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is
made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the
number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and 1
under SPI and 1 under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops
10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).

HIDING ROWS
- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50
operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.
- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the
Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand
margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just
above the Totals.




- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

INSERTING A NEW ROW
- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.















- Next, right click and select Copy.
- Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.
- You will now have two identical rows of one above the other.
- Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just
added.














- Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu.
- Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,
change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.
















- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information
in the New Row you just inserted.
- If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right
thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

New!
INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR
-
New!
To make ANECALC easier, we have added a section at
the top of the spreadsheet for putting the thread size / type
descriptions (column M). You can also change the Thread
Group Description rather than using Thread type #1, #2, etc.
(i.e., Topstitching #1, Looper threads, Serging threads)
-
New!
When you enter a thread Tex Size/Type/Clr (i.e, T-24
Perma Core - Clrs), you will see this same thread identification
to the right in column O. This can then be copied and pasted in
all operations using this particular SKU.
- For ANECALC to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the
Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to
the thread consumption calculation.
- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the
appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread
positions where there is any thread consumed. IF AT THE
BOTTOM OF THE SPREADSHEET UNDER TOTAL YARDS
YOU SEE THE SAME NUMBER REPEATED, YOU MISSED
AN CELL FOR THREAD SIZE & TYPE.
- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread
descriptions as mentioned above. Never type the same thread
Size / Type multiple cells at the top as ANECALC will double the
consumption.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU
- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must
be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the
worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed
copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the
spreadsheet.

CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT
- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread put-
up and price per cone. Example: 6,000 @ $6.00.
- Any currency can be used on ANECALC.

CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED
- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the
production requirement and ANECALC will calculate the number
of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.
- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more
thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on
the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number
of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line
to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not
calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when
there are coverage issues because there are too many
variables that can affect this calculation.
- Ask about ANECALC PLUS that can help calculate the total
cones required to thread up a sewing production line.
-
New!
If you have any questions, contact your local A&E
Technical Support Representative.

New!
COPYING A WORKSHEET TO COMPARE COSTS
USING A DIFFERENT THREAD COMBINATON

-
New!
To make a cost comparison using a different thread
combination in ANECALC, simply right click on the Workshop
Tab that you just completed, select Copy.


- Click on the Tab you want to copy and click the Create a Copy
button at the bottom and then click OK.



- You will now have an identical spreadsheet where you can
replace the thread types and sizes, etc. and see what impact
this change will have compared to your original spreadsheet.
- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information
in the New Row you just inserted.
- If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right
thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

New!
INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR
-
New!
To make ANECALC easier, we have added a section at
the top of the spreadsheet for putting the thread size / type
descriptions (column M). You can also change the Thread
Group Description rather than using Thread type #1, #2, etc.
(i.e., Topstitching #1, Looper threads, Serging threads)
-
New!
When you enter a thread Tex Size/Type/Clr (i.e, T-24
Perma Core - Clrs), you will see this same thread identification
to the right in column O. This can then be copied and pasted in
all operations using this particular SKU.
- For ANECALC to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the
Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to
the thread consumption calculation.
- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the
appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread
positions where there is any thread consumed. IF AT THE
BOTTOM OF THE SPREADSHEET UNDER TOTAL YARDS
YOU SEE THE SAME NUMBER REPEATED, YOU MISSED
AN CELL FOR THREAD SIZE & TYPE.
- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread
descriptions as mentioned above. Never type the same thread
Size / Type multiple cells at the top as ANECALC will double the
consumption.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU
- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must
be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the
worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed
copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the
spreadsheet.

CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT
- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread put-
up and price per cone. Example: 6,000 @ $6.00.
- Any currency can be used on ANECALC.

CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED
- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the
production requirement and ANECALC will calculate the number
of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.
- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more
thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on
the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number
of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line
to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not
calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when
there are coverage issues because there are too many
variables that can affect this calculation.
- Ask about ANECALC PLUS that can help calculate the total
cones required to thread up a sewing production line.
-
New!
If you have any questions, contact your local A&E
Technical Support Representative.

New!
COPYING A WORKSHEET TO COMPARE COSTS
USING A DIFFERENT THREAD COMBINATON

-
New!
To make a cost comparison using a different thread
combination in ANECALC, simply right click on the Workshop
Tab that you just completed, select Copy.


- Click on the Tab you want to copy and click the Create a Copy
button at the bottom and then click OK.



- You will now have an identical spreadsheet where you can
replace the thread types and sizes, etc. and see what impact
this change will have compared to your original spreadsheet.
ISO 4915 STITCH MATRIX
ANE CALC
Avg. Seam Thickness
Fill in the information highlighted in "yellow"
Thread Description (ex. Tex Size /
Brand)
Copy & Paste from column "M" to
Column "O"
1.9 mm
Company Name: T-40 Perma Core = T-40 Perma Core
T-27 Perma Spun = T-27 Perma Spun
=
Garment Description: =
Men's Chino Pant
=
=
=
=
Cost Per Garment = =
US$ =
Rows Seam Needle Needle Bobbin Bobbin Looper Looper / Cover Total
Oper ISO of Length Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread Metres /
# Name of Operation Stitch Stitch SPI CM Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Oper.
FRONTS DEPT.
1 Serge Left Fly Facing 301 6 6.04 1 9 20 0.51 0.49 0.62 T-40 Perma Core 0.59 T-27 Perma Spun 1.21
2 Attach Zipper Tape to Lft Fly 7 4.79 2 8 20 0.55 0.45 1.06 T-40 Perma Core 0.86 T-27 Perma Spun 1.92
3 Serge bottom of Lft Fly 18 12.36 1 7 6 0.22 0.78 0.15 T-40 Perma Core 0.54 T-27 Perma Spun 0.69
4 Face Front Pockets 3 3.20 1 8 117 0.51 0.49 1.91 T-40 Perma Core 1.83 T-40 Perma Core 3.74
5 Bag Front Pockets 18 13.41 1 8 35 0.22 0.78 1.03 T-40 Perma Core 3.64 T-27 Perma Spun 4.67
6 Topstitch Bag Pkt 3 3.20 1 8 35 0.51 0.49 0.57 T-40 Perma Core 0.55 T-40 Perma Core 1.11
7 Serge Left Front at Fly 18 12.36 1 7 30 0.22 0.78 0.82 T-40 Perma Core 2.91 T-27 Perma Spun 3.74
8 Form Front Pleats 3 3.20 1 8 15 0.51 0.49 0.25 T-40 Perma Core 0.24 T-40 Perma Core 0.50
9 Set & Topstitch Front Pockets 3 3.20 1 8 70 0.51 0.49 1.13 T-40 Perma Core 1.09 T-40 Perma Core 2.22
10 Bartack Front Pockets 31 17.00 4 1 1 0.77 0.23 0.52 T-40 Perma Core 0.16 T-40 Perma Core 0.68
11 Set Left Fly to Front 3 3.20 1 8 23 0.51 0.49 0.37 T-40 Perma Core 0.36 T-40 Perma Core 0.73
12 "J" Stitch Left Fly 3 3.35 1 9 26 0.51 0.49 0.44 T-40 Perma Core 0.42 T-40 Perma Core 0.86
13 Serge on Right Fly 18 13.41 1 8 20 0.22 0.78 0.59 T-40 Perma Core 2.10 T-27 Perma Spun 2.69
14 Topstitch Right Fly 3 3.35 1 9 20 0.51 0.49 0.34 T-40 Perma Core 0.33 T-40 Perma Core 0.67
15 Crotch Seam 3 3.35 1 9 26 0.51 0.49 0.44 T-40 Perma Core 0.42 T-40 Perma Core 0.86
16 Bartack Fly (2) 31 17.00 2 1 1 0.77 0.23 0.26 T-40 Perma Core 0.08 T-40 Perma Core 0.34
BACKS DEPT. T-40 Perma Core
17 Sew Back Darts 3 3.35 1 9 16 0.51 0.49 0.27 T-40 Perma Core 0.25 T-40 Perma Core 0.52
18 Face Back Pockets 3 3.20 1 8 76 0.51 0.49 1.24 T-40 Perma Core 1.19 T-40 Perma Core 2.43
19 Set & Topstitch Pkt Welts 3 3.35 2 9 61 0.51 0.49 2.09 T-40 Perma Core 2.01 T-40 Perma Core 4.10
20 Bartack Back Pockets 32 22.00 4 1 1 0.77 0.23 0.68 T-40 Perma Core 0.20 T-40 Perma Core 0.88
21 Close Back Pockets 3 3.35 1 9 30 0.51 0.49 0.52 T-40 Perma Core 0.50 T-40 Perma Core 1.01
22 Bag Back Pockets 3 3.35 1 9 127 0.51 0.49 2.17 T-40 Perma Core 2.09 T-40 Perma Core 4.26
23 Seat Seam 22 4.79 1 8 49 0.55 0.45 1.28 T-40 Perma Core 1.05 T-27 Perma Spun 2.32
24 Overedge 23 13.41 1 8 49 0.22 0.78 1.43 T-40 Perma Core 5.07 T-27 Perma Spun 6.51
25 Topstitch Seat Seam 7 4.79 1 8 49 0.55 0.45 1.28 T-40 Perma Core 1.05 T-27 Perma Spun 2.32
Size: 36 X 32 Photo
American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Medium Wt. Fabrics
ABC Mfg. Company
OK to change below (i.e., Topstitching #1
Needle & Bobbins
Looper Threads
Page 11 of 12
Rows Seam Needle Needle Bobbin Bobbin Looper Looper / Cover Total
Oper ISO of Length Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread Metres /
# Name of Operation Stitch Stitch SPI CM Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Oper.
ASSEMBLY DEPT. T-40 Perma Core
26 Safetystitch Sideseam 22 4.79 1 8 239 0.55 0.45 6.29 T-40 Perma Core 5.14 T-27 Perma Spun 11.43
27 Overedge 23 13.41 1 8 239 0.22 0.78 7.04 T-40 Perma Core 24.97 T-27 Perma Spun 32.02
28 Topstitch Sideseam 7 4.79 1 8 239 0.55 0.45 6.29 T-40 Perma Core 5.14 T-27 Perma Spun 11.43
29 Safetystitch inseam 22 4.79 1 8 180 0.55 0.45 4.74 T-40 Perma Core 3.88 T-27 Perma Spun 8.62
30 Overedge 23 13.41 1 8 180 0.22 0.78 5.31 T-40 Perma Core 18.84 T-27 Perma Spun 24.15
31 Pipe Waistband 3 3.05 1 7 102 0.51 0.49 1.58 T-40 Perma Core 1.52 T-40 Perma Core 3.10
32 Topstitch Waistband 7 4.79 1 8 221 0.55 0.45 5.83 T-40 Perma Core 4.77 T-27 Perma Spun 10.59
33 Finish Band Ends 3 3.35 1 9 26 0.51 0.49 0.44 T-40 Perma Core 0.42 T-40 Perma Core 0.86
34 Buttonsew Fly & Hip Pocket 34 8.00 2 1 1 0.75 0.25 0.12 T-40 Perma Core 0.04 T-40 Perma Core 0.16
35 Buttonhole Fly & Hip Pocket 36 30.00 2 1 1 0.77 0.23 0.46 T-40 Perma Core 0.14 T-40 Perma Core 0.60
36 Make Belt Loops (7) 11 13.39 1 8 81 0.45 0.55 4.85 T-40 Perma Core 5.93 T-27 Perma Spun 10.78
37 Bartack Belt Loops 31 17.00 14 1 1 0.77 0.23 1.83 T-40 Perma Core 0.55 T-40 Perma Core 2.38
38 Hem Bottom 3 3.20 1 8 97 0.51 0.49 1.58 T-40 Perma Core 1.52 T-40 Perma Core 3.09
39 Spot Tack Hem 3 3.50 1 10 3 0.51 0.49 0.05 T-40 Perma Core 0.04 T-40 Perma Core 0.09
#N/A #N/A #N/A
SUBTOTALS 67.86 16.53 85.89 TOTALS 170.28
170.28 Total Metres/Garment Consumed
10% 17.03 Metres/Garment - Waste
187.31 Total Metres/Garment w Waste
Program Sz (units)
Copy & Paste Thread SKU's TOTAL Put-Up Price Thread Price Thread Price 10,000
From Above METRES (5000M) Per Metre Per Garment # of Cones needed
1 T-40 Perma Core 92.17
2 T-27 Perma Spun 94.48
3 0.65
4 0.65
Currency
191.88 Total Metres/Garment w Waste - $ US$
Per Garment
Prices are for comparative purpose only. Contact your A&E Representative for you exact prices.
ANECALC THREAD COST ANALYSIS
Percent Waste
Page 12 of 12