Diydtg

6/28/14 11:10 PM How-to: DIYDTG
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June 28, 2014
How-to: DIYDTG
June 6, 2010 By Jakob Griffith 123 Comments
For those unaware, the little acronym above stands for Do-It-Yourself-Direct-To-Garment printing. In laymans
terms, printing your own shirts and designs. Commercial DTGs can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $10,000
which for the hobbyist who only wants a few shirts is ridiculous. So you would think this field of technology
would be hacked to no end, but weve actually only seen one other fully finished and working DIYDTG. So we
took it upon ourselves to build a DIYDTG as cheaply and as successfully as possible.
We would like to take this moment to thank [makemygraphix] for his original designs, as ours is heavily based
off his. And Tshirt Forums, for their valuable input.
For your own DIYDTG youll need a few parts, (we honestly just used what we had lying around)
-3/4 inch particle board/plywood/MDF
-1/2 inch particle board/plywood/MDF
-1/4 inch plywood
-1 and 1/2inch wood screws
-24inch ball bearing drawer track
-scrap aluminum (1/16! thick)
-Epson printer (more on this below)
The printer you choose is the most absolutely crucial part of this hack. We took apart an HP DeskJet 3845,
Canon iP1500, Brother MFC420CN, Epson Stylus Photo 820 and an Epson Stylus c40. Why so many? We
literally purchased every printer the local thrift store had (at $6 a printer, its not that bad actually), that way the
reader wouldnt have to. Our findings were thus; the HP and the Canon both had rotary encoders on the paper
feed shaft and ended up being a total peta to try to align and get working, both not recommended. The Brother
was an all-in-one that would not function unless every part was connected, making it too large and bulky for our
needs. Both Epsons used stepper motors, were very easy to take apart, and only had one easy to manage paper
sensor. Go with Epson! (We ended up using the C40 because it had the 3 ink CYM system instead of the 5
CYMLCLM system the 820 did).
As for the ink you will be using in your printer, we found DTGinks.com to be a good resource.
For software for your Epson, we found the default drivers worked well enough. There is RIP software out there,
but we couldnt find any that supported the c40. We will recommend the SSC Utility program though. Allowing
you to quickly and easily lie to the printer about how much, what kind, and replaced ink cartridges (for Epson
only).
For tools we recommend the following
-measuring tape
-square
-pen/chalk line
-table saw
-circular saw
-jigsaw
-Dremel
-drill press/drill (and an assortment of bits)
-sand paper/file
We started off by taking apart the printers. Every printer is different, so we cant give you details but its
relatively simple process. By the end youll only need the head and its carriage, the paper feed motor and its
shaft, and the power supply.
Youll need to cut the wood as follows, (it should be noted, these are slightly different then what we actually
used)
For the 3/4 inch,
1 x 26inch by 11 and 1/2 inches.
1 x 26inch by 10 inches.
For the 1/2 inch,
2 x 26inch by 5inch,
2 x 26 inch by 1 and 3/4 inches.
First clamp the two 26!x5! boards together. Now 6! from the end and 2! and 3/8! from the bottom drill a 5/8!
hole through both boards at the same time. This is where your paper feed shaft will go.
Here is a tricky part, the metal track. We mounted the outer part 3/4! from the top on one of the 26!x5!(doesnt
matter which you choose) pieces and made the stop/back/end of the track flush with the end of the board (this
isnt very high priority) . And the inner part of the track goes 1! and 1/8! from the top on one of the 26!x1 and
3/4! pieces.
Normally we do recommend that you use metal L brackets to attach corners of wood, but as long as you pre-
drill a hole slightly smaller than your screws, youll be fine (we also counter sunk most of our screws, but thats
optional). Attach the two 26!x1 and 3/4! to the 26!x10!. Do the same with the two 26!x5! and the 26!x11 and
1/2! pieces.
All that was a little tricky, so here is a picture to help out. For those wondering, the top tray rolls towards you
in this image.
And a shot without the top tray, as you can see our shaft wasnt long enough, so a simple 2!x3! piece was put in
place. Make sure the shaft spins freely and without binding, with and without the top tray in.
The next interesting part is mounting the drive motor. It needs to be snug against the gear of the shaft, yet not
too tight to make it grind against the wood. It also needs to have a way of preventing the shaft from popping
out. We solved both problems relatively simply.
Take your assembly, remove the top shelf, and prop it on its side. Position your motor where it will be mounted
on top/inside the 26!x5! piece. Drop in the shaft, get everything aligned and draw a circle around the motors
base. Using a straight edge and tangent lines you can approximate the center of your circle.
Use a large hole saw cut it out (it doesnt have to be perfect). Sand/file it so the motor easily fits in without
bending any pins. We pop riveted a 1!x3! piece of aluminum to the motor to make mounting a little easier.
Drop in your shaft and make sure everything lines up. Finally, to prevent the shaft from slipping in, we used the
washers and C clamp from the extra printer parts (you didnt throw away, right?) on the other 26!x5! piece.
And to avoid the shaft from slipping out we took a 1!x10! piece of aluminum, bent it in a _n_ shape, drilled a
hole for the shaft, and used a cut up spring from the extra printer parts. A picture is worth 1000 words,
Bare with me, were almost done!
Youll need to modify the printer carriage now, simply cut off the slot that paper used to come through,
Youll want to mount it on-top of the two 26!x5! pieces about 6! back. We were lucky and found two of the
previous mounting screw holes on the carriage fit perfectly, however other printers you might need to bend or
make your own. (This picture taken before we made our nifty _n_ bracket).
Now we made our platen, this is the thing your shirt goes on. Its really up to you how its made, and were not
even totally happy with our design, so play around and find what works best. Ours is 24!x9 and 1/2! piece of
1/4! plywood mounted to the top of two 20!x2 and 7/8! pieces of 1/2! plywood. The height measurement
completely depends on the height of your head. For those wondering, we never got an answer for how far the
shirt should actually be from the head, but weve found about 1/8! works well enough. (The legs you see on
our platen were later taken off.)
Mount your power supply and solder it, alongside your motor, to the driver board.
Now there is one part weve neglected to mention until now. And that is the paper feed sensor (remember that
one sensor we mentioned earlier?). Well its because we spent 3 days trying to get that sucker to work with our
platen. We tried everything, different timings and positions of the platen, even programming an MCU to try to
trick the printer into thinking the platen was paper. In the end, we just broke it off.
By accident.
And it worked (no really!) It takes a little timing on our part but by hand to trigger the sensor, but weve never
had a misprint like we did with the platen. (Pictured below, one of our tape attempts at triggering the paper
feed sensor, this one worked about 1 out of 50 times).
Powered on,
Send a print job, hand trigger the paper feed sensor, and we have a print!
Here is just a short video if it in action, most notably you can see us hand triggering the paper feed sensor. The
orange was a test print, as you can see if your platen isnt 100% flat and level relative to the head, youll get
some smudging and general print errors. The white shirt was a perfect (well, test) print that we did a little
earlier.
(Yes, we know the video was blocked earlier. We have re-uploaded it, thank you for your patience; it should
work now.)
*Disclaimer, using tools without proper ear and eye protection can result in a visit to the hospital. And HaD is
in no way responsible for any damages. Be smart, be safe.*
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Filed Under: Featured, how-to Tagged With: aluminum, direct to garment, diy, dtg, how-to, jakob, motor,
paper, paper feed sensor, platen, print, printer, screws, shirt, wood
Comments
1. bencoder says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:06 am
The youtube video appears to have been blocked on copyright grounds. Perhaps a music track? Looks
like a great project though. good work.
Reply Report comment
2. Adrian says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:12 am
Looks very cool.
Great work!
3. Chris Muncy says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:19 am
this video contains content from mahalo.com, who has blocked it on copyright grounds
WTF?!?!?!?!
4. janin says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:28 am
The website which blocked the video are mostly spammers and content thieves. This is probably just
another way to get their name known.
I have a few questions about the build :
The tray rests on top of the paper feed roller and is moved back and forth only by friction? Did you
modify the roller to give it better traction?
Can you print also on dark colors? Is the ink opaque?
nash says:
May 2, 2013 at 11:24 pm
NO U CANT PRINT IN DARK T-SHIRT, AND THE INK IS NOT OPAQUE
SATovey says:
September 25, 2013 at 8:46 pm
You can but you need a printer that that you can replace a color with white pigment. Then
you need software that knows to print the white first and then the other colors second.
5. Psyc0bob says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:29 am
youtube FAIL
6. Eric W says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:35 am
What does people eating tasty animals have to do with selecting a printer?
7. Ryan Leach says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:04 am
peta????? or do you mean P.I.T.A
8. JohnSmith says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:05 am
Awesome. Does the ink wash out? This might go well with a print cartridge replacement hack.
9. Ryan Leach says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:10 am
also have you tried washing the shirts yet? would love to see if it washes out smudges ruins everything
else in the load etc.
10. julz says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:18 am
How permanent is this ink? Is setting it as simple as ironing the shirt afterwards or is it best to never wash
it? Eew.
Great How-To. Thanks guys
11. Gordon Brown says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:34 am
Lovely =)
12. jeffmhopkins says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:46 am
Anyone have a link to that HAD logo on the shirt?
13. EdZ says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:48 am
Another mark in favour of (some) Epson printers is the use Piezoelectric print heads rather than thermal
bubble-jet heads. These are somewhat more accepting of alternate inks (or other fluids) than thermal
heads.
Melanie says:
January 22, 2013 at 8:38 pm
Where do you find these heads to fit the epson?
14. mcmasterp says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:53 am
I second Janins questions. also what is the thing you stretch the tshirt onto and place on the platen?
15. notahack says:
June 6, 2010 at 8:47 am
ive done some screen printing and that seems a lot easier than this. especially for one color printing
16. bobo says:
June 6, 2010 at 8:54 am
lol cant you buy USB kits for like $300?
17. Mj says:
June 6, 2010 at 9:09 am
What a co-incidence !!!
I am on my way building a DTG printer using an Epson Stylus C90.
The internals are exact same to the one youve used.
18. Doug says:
June 6, 2010 at 9:12 am
*Disclaimer, using tools without proper ear and eye protection can result in a visit to the hospital. And
HaD is in no way responsible for any damages. Be smart, be safe.*
oh come on, this is not a dangerous project.
19. steven says:
June 6, 2010 at 9:13 am
Hacks arent necessarily elegant. Just something quick and dirty to see what you can do. This seems like a
good beer fueled weekend with my buddies.I think its a nice proof of concept. Repurpose a printer into
printing cute lil pitchures on dem dere shirts.
20. Fuzzy says:
June 6, 2010 at 9:44 am
I love it. I have like 8 Epson printers out in the shop. As soon as I get the fortyleven projects I am
currently working on out of the way I think this will be the next one in the queue. It will be a great way to
P.O.C. shirts this fall.
21. Tiny says:
June 6, 2010 at 9:55 am
Having worked in the DTG printing machine industry, I can confirm that many use an Epson printer as
their base printer.
The advantage of DTG over screenprinting is the detail and vibrancy of colors. You dont waste it doing
vector images, or compressed images, simple logos. Leave that to airbrushes or screen printers.
Anyway, there is a reason for (some of) the cost. For one thing, custom ink. It took years of back and
forth with the DuPont ink guys. Another thing is multiple passes. Also, DTG printers often use multiple
passes of the same image. Both of these are to prevent one thing: Quick fade out. Screenprinting cracks
after multiple washes. The aim of the DTG industry is to produce garments that fades no faster than the
garment itself. Dunno if they are there yet.
Oh yea, our paper feed was wired to a button as well. An important tip: If you plan on doing bulkier items
like sweatshirts, put in a laser sensor to stop the machine if something is high enough to hit the head.
Those bigger items are harder to get completely flat, and you DO NOT want to have to waste time
cleaning the heads by hand of fabric.
22. Bob says:
June 6, 2010 at 10:18 am
and ended up being a total peta to try to align
Lol! Did you guys use voice recognition to write this post?
Looks like a great deal of fun to make, and reminds me that someone needs to set up a database of what
parts can be scavenged out of what printers.
23. YNH says:
June 6, 2010 at 10:38 am
Where can I get that most awesome logo with the wings?
24. Sasha says:
June 6, 2010 at 11:19 am
Schweet! So badly wanna do this!
But two questions: will a wash wipe/smudge off the ink, and will this work if I tear a part a Epson Stylus
C64 printer?
25. bothersaidpooh says:
June 6, 2010 at 11:34 am
epson printers also have very nice steppers, hps have those cheap dc motors with optical positioners.
Both can be used for makerbots/repraps/etc as well as for any project requiring high accuracy and
repeatability.
26. Jakob Griffith says:
June 6, 2010 at 12:14 pm
Ill answer a few questions, (keep them coming!)
@janin: Yep, simply friction. We were tempted to add some non-slick grip tape but found it unnecessary.
The darkest weve tried was a marine blue, it didnt show up as well as we like. Well be sticking with
light colored shirts.
@Eric W: Everything.
@JohnSmith: We tried printing with regular printer inks, and as recommended DTG shirt inks. The
regular washes out and leaves a lovely green stain. The DTG has yet to come out from wash! (We heat
pressed both.)
If we get enough demand, well write up a tutorial on how we replaced the inks in our cartridges. Its
different for every printer though
@mcmasterp: The white thing is just 1/8th inch thick cardboard because we miss-measured the legs of
our platen. It helps put the shirt closer to the print head.
@notahack: We can print in full color.
@Doug: We lost a leg during the mod, we found it promptly later, but still be safe.
For the winged HaD logo, you can thank Asyrum,
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a335/asyrum/wordpress/hackaday-asyrum-3.png
Jakob Griffith
HackaDay Team
27. Heliostat hippy says:
June 6, 2010 at 12:23 pm
Does the ink stick?
28. jjshortcut says:
June 6, 2010 at 12:59 pm
To make the list of printers more complete, its also possible with a Lexmark 605z. For the printerfeed it
has a steppermotor (without encoder) Ive made one for printing on canvas and shirts (and PCBs):
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/01/25/dear-printer/
29. JAdams says:
June 6, 2010 at 1:32 pm
How about printing with a bleach mixture to create a controlled pattern on dark fabrics? (weaker mixtures
for less fading)
30. Fluffy says:
June 6, 2010 at 2:06 pm
Just casting my vote for a how-to on filling the ink cartridges. Even if its just a link to a good one.
31. Simon says:
June 6, 2010 at 2:40 pm
Would be very happy with a detailed tutorial for the ink cartridge and more on this one. =D
How hard would you say this hack is?
Could a beginner handle it with some common sense and teh right epson printer?
32. Rick says:
June 6, 2010 at 3:20 pm
Does standard Epson ink (for paper) resist PCB etchant?
Does the fabric ink resist etchant?
A direct-print hack for printing masks for PCB etching would be a great boon to the Maker community.
33. Daniel says:
June 6, 2010 at 3:39 pm
@Rick
Have you heard of press and peel. All you need is a Laser printer, and some sheets of this blue stuff and
you iron it on to the PCB.
Check it out:
http://www.techniks.com/
34. DrA says:
June 6, 2010 at 3:41 pm
I noticed the DIY DTG you took a lot of the plans off of couldnt print white ink for some weird reason.
Have you guys tested white ink on black shirts yet with this?
35. BioToxxx says:
June 6, 2010 at 3:45 pm
Could consider filling your ink carts with createx airbrush colors paint. it should be thin enough, and can
be thinned further of course. Its for fabric and just needs a heat treat with an iron afterward to be
permanent. Not sure if it would fry the heads or not but worth a shot.
36. Aaron says:
June 6, 2010 at 4:13 pm
How do you get the DTG inks into the right kind of cartridge? Looks like they supply ink for genuine
DTG printers which I think have different cartridges.
37. TruckeeDave says:
June 6, 2010 at 4:48 pm
An EPSON Ink refilling hack would be much appreciated!
38. Randall says:
June 6, 2010 at 5:09 pm
Regarding printing light colours on dark fabrics: If you can get DTG ink in white (and I imagine you can)
one way to do this would be to fill a black cartridge with white ink and print a negative of your image.
In other words, if your logo is white invert the colours using GIMP (or whatever program you use) so
that it appears black and print the image with the white ink in the black ink cartridge.
Theoretically you should be able to get lighter gradients of colours using this method as well.
Of course, this is only half a solution as you wouldnt be able to print ANY shades of colour requiring
blacks. Would work for solid whites and some lighter colours though.
39. Frank says:
June 6, 2010 at 5:12 pm
Awesome stuff, but I really, really wish you Americans went over to the metric system once and for all
SATovey says:
September 25, 2013 at 9:02 pm
Hey, Its an American thing! :-)
40. cjl says:
June 6, 2010 at 5:22 pm
Yes to the ink cartridge tutorial!
And when you say heat-pressed, do you mean you ironed it or does this refer to a specific technique?
Thanks!
41. Richard says:
June 6, 2010 at 5:49 pm
Any idea on metallic or white inks? As I only like dark coloured cloths, that would be a necessity before I
would get any use out of this.
42. EdZ says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:37 pm
@Rick
Check http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbetch.htm for info on direct-to-PCB printing.
43. chris says:
June 6, 2010 at 6:59 pm
EDIT.If i may..to fix links
Exactly how durable is inkjet printed fabric?
I have heard of this stuff being used to set inkjet inks:
http://www.bryerpatch.com/faq/bjs.htm
For the hackers the homebrew version:
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=129537.0
44. BioToxxx says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:07 pm
@cjl
As far as createx paints go when painting on fabric, after the paint has air dried for a few minutes
Heat Gun: apply heat at a low to mid-temperature setting no more than 300F. Keep air moving to avoid
blistering. Apply heat until paint is warm to the touch.
Shirt Press: 325F for 15 20 seconds.
Iron: With a protective cloth over paint, set on high/ cotton setting and iron for @ 2 minutes. A shirt press
or iron is recommended for curing t-shirt artwork intended for washing.
Again using createx paints is just an idea I had as an artist that uses them to airbrush. They come pretty
thin already, as they are meant to be sprayed through a .5 mm tip @ 40psi. I do thin them for my .2 tip
and I, of course, have no idea the size or manner that a printer head uses to expel its juices or if it could
even throw paint rather than ink but @ about 4$ for 2 ounces of paint that is meant for fabric it would
be a good thing if we could get it applied this way. The pigment is very fine and I think it would be very
possible.
The only downside I can think of is tip dry where the paint dries on the tip of my brush, or print head in
this case, requiring a wet brush wiping the dried paint off now and then. Though I only have to clean the
tip a few times during a whole helmet painting and I figure it could make it through a tshirt graphic
without problem but a wipe of the heads after its done would probably be in order. Then again tip dry
occurs because of the air pushing and drying the paint as its expelled and again I have no idea how a
print head spits but I know its not compressed air so it may not tip dry at all.
As for light colors on dark fabric; reversing and printing a negative is a great idea of course. But if the
printer could indeed throw this paint one could very simply fill their black cart with white paint (or
anything) and just let it spit the white onto the black shirt as if it were full of black.
Well, Im rambling lol thats just my input =)
45. Jakob Griffith says:
June 6, 2010 at 7:43 pm
Round two of question answer time! (keep them coming!)
@JAdams: Thats a good idea (in theory)! From all the lovely stains weve gained from doing the
laundry. What usually turns out is black + bleach = green. Orange + bleach left a weird blue once too
Plus, we hear you shouldnt run water (and especially bleach) through a print head due to rust.
@Simon: The hardest part was the wood work (well, and the paper feed sensor). There is no
programming, very little soldering. With that, I wouldnt say its beginner, but its not anything too
majorly difficult. If you have all the parts (or can get them cheaply) its at least worth a shot.
@DRa (and everyone asking about white): We have not tested white ink on black shirts, but from what
weve read. By pre-treating the shirt, and using DTG white ink, you can print light on dark.
For those wanting to try, follow Randalls model. Hes on the right track.
@Aaron: The website we ordered our ink off of supplied it in a small bottle. To all those asking, well see
if the big boss man will let us minions give you guys a quick tutorial on replacing ink in Epson cartridges.
@Randall: Exactly.
@cjl: Iron for a couple of seconds.
@BioToxxx: Thank you for introducing us to Createx. Sadly, typical print head nozzle size is between 30
and 10 microns (from what we read, at least). And you mentioned it drys on your tip, not good for
printers.
Jakob Griffith
HackaDay Team
46. Ryan says:
June 6, 2010 at 8:09 pm
I have a Dell 720 printer, does anyone know what type of motor it has?
47. Paul says:
June 6, 2010 at 8:41 pm
First off, this looks awesome, and Im keen to give it a go (once you get an ink replacement tutorial up).
Before I do, though which size bottle(s) did you get, and how many single-colour shirts would you
expect to get out of a single bottle of ink?
48. woutervddn says:
June 7, 2010 at 12:27 am
this video contains content from mahalo.com, who has blocked it on copyright grounds
Mahalo? lol, isnt that the answers.hackaday service? Little Fed up if they are going to control stuff now
xD
Anyways, nice hack.. really love it.. and indeed a cartridge hack would be appreciated. I might just build
one myself this summer (if I pass my exams). Now I think about it, it must be fairly easy to use this to
print on.. everything (if you have the right ink)!
49. Rmg says:
June 7, 2010 at 12:48 am
Nice basis for building a direct to pcb printer :Y
50. DrA says:
June 7, 2010 at 4:17 am
@Jakob Griffith: If, for some reason, you cant post a tutorial on filling the cartridges, can you email a
tutorial? This AWESOME DIY project seems a little incomplete without one, am I right? Its like selling
a car without the keys!
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