Hke East s your free gude to all the best that

Turkey has to ofer. Trek along some of the

most spectacular long-dstance trals on earth,
check out ancent runs and magnfcent
geologcal formatons, or explore huge and
endlessly fascnatng stanbul. Its all rght
here, ncludng countless dscounts and specal
opportuntes just for readers of Hke East!
Contents
How to Use This Guidebook
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Bar
Accommodation
Wi-Fi
nternet

Breakfast
Camping
Restaurant Ancient city
Dinner
Credit cards
accepted
Activities
Places a bit
more expensive
Wine house
Shopping
Turkey Map 7
10 Things Not To Mis 9
stanbul 10
Beyolu 12
Sultanahmet 24
Kadky 30
Islands 34
Around stanbul 36
znik 42
anakkale 44
Assos 48
Bozcaada 50
Gkeada 52
Ayvalk 54
Lesvos/Mytilini 56
zmir 60
eme 62
Foa 64
Bergama 66
Ephesus 68
irince 71
Kuadas 82
Denizli / Pamukkale 73
Mula
Gkova / Akyaka 76
Dalyan 78
Kyceiz 81
Data 82
Bodrum 84
Marmaris 86
Lycian Way 88
Fethiye 90
ldeniz 92
Kayaky 94
Faralya 98
Kabak 99
Xanthos Letoon 101
Pnara 102
Patara 103
Ka 104
Demre 108
Olympos 110
Kumluca / Adrasan 115
Antalya 117
Mersin / Kzkalesi 118
Ankara 120
Cappadocia / Greme 122
Nemrut 128
Diyarbakr 130
Mardin 132
Hatay 134
Van 135
Doubayazt 139
Black Sea 140
Safranbolu 141
Amasra Samsun Trabzon 143
Smela 144
Rize 145
Kakar Mountains 146
Georgia 148
Batumi 150
Tbilisi 152
Borjomi 155
Turkish-English Dictionary 157
more info: www.hikeast.com
Hike East is a free guidebook bringing tons of
great information about traveling in Turkey
right to your fingertips- including discounts on
all kinds of services throughout the country,
from hostel stays to drinks to extreme sports
experiences.
We provide an easy-to-understand, useful
and up-to-date guidebook to make your
travels in Turkey as memorable and affordable
as possible, and best of all, all this info is
completely on the house!
You can pick up a print version from any of the
awesome hostels, restaurants, and companies
featured in Hike East.
...did we mention its free?
Find us online at www.hikeast.com or on all
your favorite social networking sites.
Facebook: www.facebook.com/hikeast
Tumblr: www.hikeast.tumblr.com/
Twitter: www.twitter.com/hikeast
Promotions offered through Hike East are only
valid when you show up with the guidebook in
hand. To receive the discounts, make a direct
booking, not through third-party providers.
We hope that your travels in Turkey will be eye-opening and full of fantastic discoveries along
the way. Turkey is a major destination for travelers across the world, though, and the impact
of tourism on the environment has the potential to cause significant damage. Please be
responsible as you explore this beautiful country!
Read about the culture and customs of Turkey; always abide by the local laws
and etiquette!
Patronize local small businesses as much as possible
Get to know the friendly and welcoming Turkish people wherever you go
Do your best to learn some Turkish
Always be respectful. Wear appropriate clothing and ask before taking pictures
Dont litter!
Abide by posted signs
Turkey has some of the worlds most amazing hiking trails, and we know you cant wait to get
your boots on and get going. To make your experience the best it can be and minimize your
environmental impact, make sure to...
Trek in groups whenever possible
Follow maps and signs- dont take shortcuts!
Prepare appropriately. Bring enough supplies and plan ahead
Ask local guides for tips and information
Check into the current condition of the trails before leaving
Carry out all your trash with you
Leave the wildlife alone
Never light fires
Only camp where its permitted!
Responsible Travel
Trekking Tips
By air: Turkey is a big country, and flying is definitely the fastest way to get from place
to place, and can be quite cheap if you book in advance. Flights between major cities
depart frequently. The national carrier is Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) and
there are a number of budget providers such as Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com/en/) or
Sunexpress (www.sunexpress.com).
By bus: Long-distance buses are a common way to get around. Travel times are often
daunting, but the fares are cheap and the coaches are comfortable. Many of the long-
haul journeys are overnight. Check out carriers such as Varan (www.varan.com) and
Pamukkale (www.pamukkale.com.tr). Note that it can be difficult to book ahead; however, its
nearly always possible to buy a same-day ticket. Reputable companies include Ulusoy
(www.ulusoy.com.tr), Nilfer (www.nilufer.com.tr), and Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr).
By rail: Trains service fewer destinations than buses in Turkey and take longer to arrive,
but tend to be cheaper. TCDD is the government operator- their website can be found
at www.tcdd.gov.tr.
By boat: You can reach many places along the Mediterranean coast and the Sea of
Marmara by ferry; additionally, many lines run to Italy and Greece, as well as the Ukraine
(across the Black Sea). You can check the schedules online at www.ido.com.tr.
By car: Make sure you know how to drive a stick shift if youre planning on renting a car
in Turkey. Note that fuel is expensive and there are often tolls along major roads. You
drive on the right side.
Transport in cities: Buses, dolmues (shared taxis), private taxis, subways, and trams are all
common in Turkish cities; ask the locals for tips. Additionally, ferries are a common way of
crossing between Asian and European stanbul.
Transportation in Turkey
www.tourismturkey.org
The Ministry of Tourisms official site
www.turkishdailynews.com
English-language news about Turkey
www.mymerhaba.com
An expat website about everything Turkey
www.seat61.com/Turkey.htm
A great resource for train travel in Turkey
www.sehirrehberi.ibb.gov.tr/map.aspx
A useful Istanbul city map with roads and transportaition info
www.garaj.org
Find out about Turkish music and shows
www.bugday.org
Info about ecology and sustainability in Turkey
www.istanbulcycles.weebly.com
Alternative bicycle tour for stanbul.
www.gezegence.com
A travel site for Turks and foreigners. In Turkish
www.thegate.com
The website of one of Turkeys leading English magazines
www.turkishclass.com
Learn some Turkish!
www.artwalkistanbul.com
Guided Tours for contemporary art galleries
110 Fire
155 Police
112 Ambulance
156 Jandarma (local constables)
Useful Websites
Emergency Phone Numbers











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For the full schedule and line-up,
visit us at www.hikeast.com/music
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stanbul
Ankara
zmir
Eskiehir
Bursa
Antalya
Bodrum
1. Exploring the awesome and often-overlooked Basilica Cistern
2. Crossing between Europe and Asia on a ferry in stanbul
3. Losing yourself in the winding alleys of the Grand Bazaar
4. Going out for drinks and dancing near stiklal Street in Beyolu
5. Eating a kebab, a Turkish favorite
6. Taking in the spectacular ruins at Ephesus
7. Soaking in the natural hot springs at Pamukkale
8. Wandering through the incredible ghost town of Kayaky
9. Hiking the Lycian Way
10. Getting an eyeful of the amazing fairy chimneys in Cappadocia
Dont Miss These Ten Things!
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STANBUL
Turkeys largest city and the only one on earth to have been the capital of two different empires
(the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire), stanbul straddles Europe and Asia. The ages
have known stanbul by many different names- some of the most familiar being Byzantium
and Constantinople. Today, the city center is roughly divided into three parts by the Bosphorus
Strait: the comparatively quieter Asian side is dominated by the district of Kadky, while the
European side is home to historical Sultanahmet and, across a channel, the modern center of
Beyolu.
Nearly every visitor to Turkey will spend time in
stanbul at some point on their journey. You could
easily wile away weeks or months exploring all
the corners of this fascinating and lively city, but
if youre on a strict time budget, plan ahead
and make sure you have time to fit in all
the exploring you want to do. Full
of history and blended European-
Asian-Middle Eastern culture and
history, youre sure to find tons
to do!



STANBUL
12
STANBUL
Beyolu
Making up the northwestern sector of the
city center, Beyolu is among stanbuls most
modern districts; it started out as a Catholic
neighborhood across from the Muslim areas
of todays Asian side, and has historically
led the charge of Westernization in the city.
Theres plenty to see and do in Beyolu, both
in terms of sightseeing and just soaking in all
the culture and tradition stanbul has to offer.
The famous stiklal Street in central
Beyolu proceeds from Taksim Square at
one end to Tnel Square at the other, with
the tiny Galatasaray Square constituting the
midpoint. stiklal is roughly two kilometers
long and is first and foremost a pedestrian
street; certain types of service vehicles, such
as police cars and garbage trucks (as well
as the old-fashioned red tram which runs
from end to end), can be seen, but nearly all
the traffic along its length is on foot. stiklal
is known for fantastic shopping, awesome
nightlife, and maybe above all, unbeatable
people-watching. Its packed to the brim
with all kinds of folks, Turks and travelers, at
almost any hour of the day.
If any single spot can be called the heart
of stanbul, its Taksim Square. Full of
restaurants and upscale hotels, the square
is also a major transportation hub- you can
catch a dolmu or bus to anywhere in the
city from here. Take a look at the Republic
Monument which was erected in 1928. Also
make sure to head to Taksim Square if you
happen to be in stanbul during a holiday
or festival- chances are, thats where the
action is!
At the other end of stiklal youll find Tnel
Square, home to the second-oldest subway
line in the world, second only to the London
Underground. Its also one of the shortest at
just over 550 meters; take it from the Karaky
ferry dock up the hill to the end of the
pedestrian walkway.
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STANBUL
Beyolu
Beyolu
STANBUL
While in Beyolu, take an afternoon stroll through the relatively unknown neighborhood of
Cihangir. Considered to be modern stanbuls most bohemian area, Cihangir (down the hill
from Taksim Square, toward the waterfront) is a maze of small streets and cluttered little shops
selling everything from retro clothing to dusty antiques. Cihangir is heaven on earth for bargain
hunters and those in search of more alternative and unusual wares than stiklal has to offer.
You can spend your time here getting lost in the winding alleys, sitting at a cafe beside the
Bosphorus, or sorting through piles of second-hand clothes on the lookout for deals.
By Tnel Square at the other end of stiklal, see Galata Tower, built in 1348 by the Genoese.
Climb to the top of the tower for a spectacular view of the Bosphorus; this is one of the most
impressive panoramas youll find anywhere in stanbul.
Getting to Beyolu
If youre arriving at the airport, the most straightforward (although not the cheapest) way
to get to Beyolu is on one of the frequent HAVATA shuttles. Getting to Taksim Square with
HAVATA will set you back 13 TL from Sabiha Gken Airport on the Asian side, or 10 TL from
Atatrk International.
Alternately, you can get a bus to Taksim from just about anywhere. The 61B line runs from
Beyazt (near Sultanahmet), the 110 from Kadky, and the 96T from Atatrk Airport.
Dolmues are even more frequent, and depart from just about everywhere in stanbul to
Taksim. If you still hold an AKBL, be informed that you cannot use it any longer: they have
been replaced by the Istanbul Kart, which youll buy for 6 TL from most of the kiosks selling
newspapers around. This card works almost in all the public transports, and has to be loaded
according to the needs (considering that a normal fare is 1,95 TL per ride).
If youre coming from Kadky, the fastest way to reach the Galata area is by ferry (1,95 TL
with the card, 3,00 TL with jeton); head to the docks and simply look for a boat with the sign
Karaky.
Heading south to Taksim from Ayazaa or Levent, the subway is your best bet.
14
STANBUL
Beyolu
Chillout Cengo is among the
citys most popular and well-
know options for budget
traveler. It is centrally
located in the hearth of
Taksim, just minutes
away from busy
Istiklal Street and
a very short walk to Taksim
Square. Friday and Saturday
nights here are loud and
spirited affairs where you will
have no trouble making friends
to hit the bars with. All of the
best of Beyolu bars and
clubs are just beyond your front door. Dont
stress out about cutting your night short
since the reception is 24 hours a day and
theres a no-lock out policy.
Chillout Cengo employs some of the
friendliest staff members around. Theyre all
knowledgeable about the city and can help
you with just about anything- insider tips for
the best places to go on a rowdy Friday night,
the best routes to Sultanahmet for some
sightseeing, or restaurant recommendations
that wont break the bank. Youll also get a
free map of stanbul to help you explore the
city on your own. Dont forget to grab one,
because this city is huge!
There are 70 beds, so chances are that even
if you show up without a reservation at 3 am,
theyll have a place for you to sleep. Choose
from a private room (ensuite or with a shared
bathroom) or a 6, 8, 10, or 12-bed dorm. You
can get free tea all day, and theres a guest
kitchen if you want to prepare your own
meals. Otherwise, head to the Chillout cafe
next door.
The staff at Chillout Cengo pride themselves
on keeping the hostel clean- no worries
about nightmare bathrooms here. And of
course, youll be supplied
with fresh sheets, so theres
no need to lug around a
sleeping bag.
Hseyinaga Mah.
Atf Ylmaz Cad.
Halas St. No. 3, Beyolu
+90 212 251 31 48
cengohostel@gmail.com
www.cengohostelistanbul.com
Chillout Cengo Hostel

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Check in
as a
Guest,
Stay as a
Friend
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STANBUL
Beyolu
Beyolu
STANBUL
Rated by Hostelworld as Turkeys best hostel
in 2009, you really cant go wrong with
the stylish Chambers of the
Boheme. Its just about as close as
you can get to stiklal Street, and
perfectly situated for a wander
around ukurcuma or Cihangir. The
management at Chambers of the Boheme
knows that they have a majorly impressive
reputation to uphold, and they keep the
premises spotless. Safety
is also a top priority here;
there are safe-deposit
boxes inside, and the
24-hour reception is
always on the
ball to
make
sure that
your stay
in stanbul is
totally secure.
The friendly staff is multi -lingual so you can
take the opportunity to ask for precious tips
to wander around the city. They also offer
some tours around Turkey and they can
help you arranging your stay in other places
around the country. For any advice you might
need, ask to the owner. Youll love his stories
about the history of the building!
The four-bed mixed dorms are simple
and cozy, all coming with clean linens.
The bathrooms are shared, but tidy and
numerous. There are even separate showers
so you dont have to wait around for
someone to finish brushing their teeth before
you can hop in.Additionally, they offer a
discount of 10 percent for groups starting at
10 people.
Check out the game room and the barbecue
area!
Chambers Of The Boheme
Katip elebi Mh.
Kk Parmakkap St.
No:13 Beyolu
+90 212 251 09 31
chambersoftheboheme@hotmail.com
www.chambersoftheboheme.com

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photo: Bijoyeta Das
www.bijoyetadas.com

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STANBUL
Beyolu
Bunk Hostels represent a
meeting of two great things-
style and affordability. The
soon-to-be chain was started
by a group of five partners
from England Germany, and Turkey with a
common vision of classy accommodation in
one of the worlds liveliest and artsiest cities.
This is anything but your run of the mill,
damp-floored place to sling your bags; Bunk
prides itself on cleanliness and an upscale
feel at a completely affordable cost,
with touches like clean fluffy
towels, marble bathrooms, and
free lockers to make you feel like
an honored guest.
Located between the characteristic
neighborhood of Cihangir and Kabata,
the hostel is a good alternative for those
who wants to enjoy Istanbuls nightlife and
then have a good sleep once back to the
hostel. Also a very good location in terms of
transportation (tramway to Sultanahment,
ferry to the Asian side and the islands and
few steps away from Istiklal). Chilled
and friendly atmosphere and all kind of
accommodation options: private en-suite,
private shared bathroom, mixed dorms.
Amazing terrace with Bosphorous view,
where breakfast is served and spontaneous
among-guests parties are likely to take place.
Relax on the comfy couches or sunbathe
after a long day of getting pleasantly lost in
the big city. If your bones feel particularly
weary, you can hop into the rooftop jacuzzi
with a beer. Not tired? No problem! Bunks
cafe transforms into a bar after dark, so the
party never has to stop. The friendly staff also
understands that you may have a brimming
nightlife agenda, so theres no lockout here.
Bunk Hostel
Route 39
Balk St. No. 7,
Kamer Hatun Mah., Beyolu
+90 212 244 88 08
info@bunkhostels.com
www.bunkhostels.com
mer Avni Mh.
Mebusan Yokusu No: 39,
Findikli, Beyoglu
+90 212 249 19 01
route39house@gmail.com
www.route39istanbul.com

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STANBUL
Beyolu
Five years ago three close
friends have created
a place for cultural
conjunction in the hip
area of Istanbul, Galata.
Within this five years they
had many guests from
all over the world
which gave them the
courage and will to
make it a better hostel everyday. Rapunzel is
recently refurbished in 2014 by the idea of Do It
Yourself in a building which is over150 years old.
It has the perfect location anyone can ask for,
some steps away from Istiklal Street, but also easily
reachable to Sultanahmet with its diverse option of
room from single to 6-bed dorms.
They offer not only bright, spacious en-suite
rooms with AC but also terrace gatherings,
insider tips about concerts, festivals and
exhibitions. Wi-Fi, breakfast, maps and a lot
more is complementary at Rapunzel. It is a fairy
tale at the heart of the city, offering you a cozy
and comfortable base from which to explore the
unforgettable beauty of Istanbul. Check out the
terrace with a great view of theGolden Horn and
Galata Tower (a mere one minute walk away).
Rapunzel Hostel
Bereketzade Mah.
Bereketzade Camii St. No:3
Galata / Beyolu
+90 212 292 50 34
info@rapunzelistanbul.com
www.rapunzelistanbul.com
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Galata-Karaky
STANBUL
Caupo is a warm and
friendly Hostel that
is located in Karaky,
opposite the Galata
Tower between touristic
areas and great night life.
They have a wealth of experience in the industry
and know what guests value and need during
their stay.
You can relax in chilled out common room,
complete with a cup of coffee and satellite
TV, or catch up with friends and family over the
Internet. Wi-Fi Access is also available throughout
the hostel. Caupo has a communal kitchen, where
you can make yourself a hearty meal or quick
snack... Note to mention that most of the Caupos
services are free of charge like linens, lockers,
luggage storage, bookexchange and laundry is also
available with a reasonable price.
Here you can also find a wide variety of
room types according to your budget from
ensuite doubles to 8-bed dorms.
Caupo is located in the Heart of old city, a short
walk from Karaky Tram Station and quite close to
the attractions of Istanbul, including Dolmabahe
Palace, Galata Bridge, Egyptian Bazaar, Blue
Mosque, Beyazt-Grand Bazaar, and Taksim Square.
Although Istanbuls brilliant night life is on your
next door, you can still have a quite sleep after a
busy party night in Taksim.
Caupo Hostel
Maliye cad. elebi st.
No:3 34425 Karaky
+90 212 243 86 66
info@caupohostel.com
www.caupohostel.com

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18
Youll love the atmosphere of Beyolu, full of
small cafes, bars and restaurants.
Z-Books Cafe Store (Tosbaa St. No:11/A
Galatasaray) you can find the books you are
not looking for! Grap a delicious cup of coffee
and enjoy your discovery.
Seratonin Craft & Design (Turnacba St.
No:44/B), charming little place in ukurcuma
selling handicrafts and homemade dishes.
www.serotonincraft.com
Cafe 26A (Tel St. No:26/A), for fair trade
supporters, this place is run by a collective
an closer to the heart of Taksim. They
offer all sorts of homemade products
without concern for profit as a way of
counterbalancing the destructive influence of
major corporations. The cafe is run by a crew
of 30 volunteers and also functions as a social
space for workshops and screenings.
(www.kolektif26a.org)
Uunc Mevkii (ut St.), in one of the tiny
streets behind Istiklal, small locanta with
delicious homemade food. Dont wait for the
waiter. Pick the menu, paper and pen, send
down your order with the small lift, wait for
your food to come up.
Parsifal (Kurabiye St. No: 9/A) is a small
vegetarian restaurant with moderate prices
and alternative-friendly atmosphere.

Zencefil (Kurabiye St. No: 8-10) on the same
street, is another vegetarian restaurant, in
a nice colorful radical chic style and slightly
upper-range prices.
These are just few suggestions. If you crawl
around the small streets departing from
Istiklal (on both sides, particularly between
Taksim Square and Galatasaray), youll find
thousands of options for any taste. Every
corner is a treasure.
Cafes, Bars & Restaurants
STANBUL
Beyolu
19



STANBUL
Beyolu
The same streets that during daytime host cafes and small lokantas, become theater of one of
the most lively nightlife in Europe. stiklal and the adjoining streets are absolutely the places
to go in stanbul if youre looking for a night out. Mix with locals and grab yourself an Efes at a
chilled out bar, or head to a dance club if you want to get moving. A walk down the main street
any time after dark will get you excited to start the party- youll see people from all walks of
life dressed to the nines and ready for a night on the town. Its amazing how stiklal changes its
colors come dusk, and what you thought was a street full of shops and restaurants suddenly
becomes a line of bar after bar after bar... choose one and get drinking!
Ritim Roof & Pub (Balk Pazar St.), with its
cheap beers, is a meeting place of Erasmus
students and locals. They have downstairs table
on Balk Pazar and a wonderful terrace at the
last floor of the same building.
Ritim Galata (Galata Kulesi St. No: 3/C) has the
same owners of the Ritim Roof & Bar. This pub is
a little bit more chill-out, right in front of Galata
tower, a good place to have a seat and eat
something at a reasonable price or drink a beer
at night enjoing the view on the tower.
The Mekan (Atf Ylmaz Caddesi, No:17A) is a live music venue mostly hosting alternative
artists from all around Turkey, among which Luxus and Baba Zula.
Kara Kedi Alternative and cheap place, Kara Kedi (Black Cat) is a perfect cafe-bar for a beer in
stanbuls underground atmosphere. Mostly live performances after 21:00 and no enterance
fee ever! recently they are located in Asmalmescit area, but a change is probable, check out
their facebook page (facebook.com/Karakedistanbul).
Babylon Performance Hall (ehbender St. No: 3; www.babylon.com.tr), a bit closer to Galata,
is one of the major venues in Istanbul. Theres always something happening here, from happy
hour to live shows and theme nights! This is also where the major concerts in town are held.
Nightlife in Beyolu
Beyolu
STANBUL
Beyolu
STANBUL

20
This place is a taste of the real Istanbul. If
you were in Istanbul before, note that they
moved from Bekar st. to some floors below
on Mis St.. With frequent performances by
local bands and street musicians, as well as
rak nights on the regular, this is the place to
be if youre after a taste of authenticity and
liberalism. Check out their Facebook page to
see whats going on! To get there, reach Bo
Zamanlar and go to the forth floor. You may
see many of the artists who were playing
during the day on Istiklal performing on the
stage, or some new international amateur
band.
Leyla Terras is
the place for
the promising
underground artists
of Turkey and not
only.
Leyla Teras
ht. Muhtar Mh. Mis St. No: 6,
3rd floor; Beyolu
terasleyla@gmail.com
facebook.com/pages/Leyla-Teras
Counterculture slightly metal atmosphere
and terrace on the top with view on Istanbul.
Beers at affordable prices,rich menu of
cocktails and a a good place to meet with
young locals. This place is ideal to have a
quiet chat at sunset or enjoy the concert of
some beginner bands on weekends. Just be
careful not to miss it! Walk down on Mis st.,
look on your left until you reach Address
Restaurant Bab- Ali at number 15. This place
is actually a quite expensive restaurant but
don t be scared: youll enter there only to
take the lift and go up to Arsen Lupen on the
4th floor.
Arsen Lupen
ht. Muhtar Mh.
Mis St. No:15, top floor,
Beyolu
+90 0542 661 53 46
facebook.com/ArsenLupenTeras
STANBUL
Beyolu
21



Beyolu
STANBUL
Among one of the oldest places in
Beyolu, this tavern is very central (next to
Galatasaray) and at the same time far from
the noises and the crowd of Istiklal. Keep
your eyes open, this meyhane is not
easy to spot: it is in the basement.
Right place to taste some delicious
mezeler in a quiet and suggestive
atmosphere, accompanied by some
good rak! Do not try to contact them by
email, because they dont use it. Better to call
before showing up. They tend to fill all the
tables every night. A must to try: yaprak cier
(liver leaves!).
ukur Mey-Hane
ukur Meyhane
Turnacba Cad.
Kartal St. No: 1/A,
Galatasaray / Beyolu
+90 212 244 55 75
A newly open vintage-stylish pub with a vast
variety of of local and international beers (60
different types). If you prefer a cocktail, ask
the staff: they have some secret ones that are
not on the menu. A cozy environment perfect
for a chat with old and new friends. Dont
be shy, order your favorite beer and join a
table. Quite hard to find: when you reach the
third floor of the building you enter a place
called The Mekan. It is the door on the right
behind the curtain. The name of the Bar has
an interesting story: apparently the people
managing pubs and bars during the Ottoman
times were mainly Greeks or non-muslim.
So the guys delivering
the barrels of beers,
were non-muslims and
were generally called
in lingua franca barba,
probably because of
the latin meaning of it:
beard.
Barba
Mis St. No:6 2nd floor
Beyolu
+90 535 471 77 96
barbathepub@gmail.com
facebook.com/BarbaPub
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Althogh it is not too easy to find bookshops selling publications
in langugaes either than Turkish, on Istiklal Street and Beyolu
area youll find some if you really look for them. The classical
reads for travelers in Turkey are Elif Safak and Orhan Pamuk. If
you want to break the lines, ask to the bookshops to advise you
something new. For the ones who walk in with serious intentions,
with Ahmet Altan.
Bookshops in Istanbul
For avid book readers and bookshop lovers,
we suggest you to stop by Mehpisto, right on
Istiklal. Here you will find books, music CDs,
Movie DVDs, books in English and a very up-
to-date catalogue of Turkish books. On the
basement youll find all sorts of stationery
products and some nice gifts to bring back
home. What about an old map of Istanbul for
example? On the first floor, you can enjoy a
coffee or tea and spend some time observing
the frenetic life of Istiklal from above.
With a good offer of books in English, this
bookshop is particularly advisable for music
lovers, thanks to the great variety of Turkish
music CDs on sale: from folk music, through
pop, to jazz and classical music. If Tarkan is
the only Turkish star you know, it might be
a good idea to push your knowledge about
Turkish music a step further. Ask the staff;
they are really knowledgeable and they speak
English! You can listen to the CDs before
deciding which one to buy.
Are you thinking of learning Turkish? Well,
this is the right place to look for grammar
text books and good dictionaries. Youll find
also plenty of Guide Books in case you are
planning to travel from Turkey to somewhere
else.
The bookshop occasionally hosts authors for
book presentations and seminars.
Mephisto Bookshop & Cafe
stiklal Cad. No: 125,
Beyolu
+90 212 249 06 96
www.mephisto.com.tr
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Aponia is a very graphic business, brainchild
of designer Fatih Dal and co-founder Orun
etinkaya. It began life in 2009 located in the
heart of Istanbul.
Aponia caught the public eye in 2012 with
the release of the Istanbul - From Aponia
- With Love collection, which was warmly
received by visitors and locals alike. The
companys bestseller sees the citys most
recognisable features tangled up inside
a complex cats cradle, with the words
Istanbul. They call it chaos, we call it home
scrawled beneath it, and has become an
iconic Istanbul image.
Building on the success of this collection,
Aponia continues to create new graphics,
satisfying their appetite for surprising, and
amusing people. Check out their website
(www.aponiastore.com) for the new designs.
Aponia Store
Asmalmescit Mah.
Hazzo Pulo Pasaj. No: 108/4E
info@aponiastore.com
www.aponiastore.com
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Even if you didnt come to stanbul with the intention of
souvenir shopping, the ubiquitous bazaars and low prices will
change your mind in a hurry.
The alternative clothing shop Clandestino has four locations
throughout the city (including in Kadky and Beyolu; take a
look at their website at www.clandestino.com.tr for addresses
and a look at some of their products).
Another great choice for stylish and relaxed clothing is Tola Tola, located at Serdari Ekrem
Caddesi No. 15/B in Beyolu. Both men and women can find great deal on ethnically-
inspired and artful clothes and all kinds of cool accessories here. The latter section makes for
particularly good browsing- check out their handbags, hairbands, and gloves, among many
others. You can find their site at www.tolatola.com.tr.
If you want to dive into the heady experience of bazaar shopping, dont miss Terkos Pasaj,
famous for its dirt-cheap second-hand clothing. Find the passage on the right side of stiklal
Street as you walk toward Tnel from Taksim Square. You can spend a whole afternoon here
and leave with armfuls of shirts and such for mere liras apiece. Semt pazarlar (neighborhood
markets) are another local favorite. Held on various days across the city, these temporary
markets are great for buying fruits and vegetables, as well as a variety of other wares. One of
the best is the Tuesday and Friday market in Kadky, close to Hasanpaa; on the European
side, have a wander through Nzhetiye Street in Beikta on a Saturday.
Shopping in stanbul

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STANBUL
Sultanahmet
The oldest part of stanbul, Sultanahmet
is home to the majority of the citys most
well-known and impressive ancient sites.
The district is located on a peninsula across
a narrow body of water from Beyolu- you
can cross on a footbridge- and is bounded
by three bodies of water; from here, the
panorama takes in the Sea of Marmara,
the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn.
Sultanahmet is serviced by a tram line which
can take you all throughout the peninsula.
Arguably the most famous of stanbuls
sights, the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in
Turkish) is a magnificent sixth-century
basilica built by the Roman emperor Justinian
I and later converted to a mosque in the
fifteenth century by the Ottoman conquerers.
Only in the last century was it turned into a
museum, its present incarnation. Spectacular
enough from the outside, the inside of the
building is not to be missed either. Check out
the fantastic mosaics within.
Topkap Palace was used as a royal residence
by the Ottomans for two-thirds of their 624-
year reign. Today, it ranks up there as one of
stanbuls most-visited tourist destinations,
and houses such important Muslim relics as
the Prophet Mohammeds sword. There are
four separate courtyards to visit, each with a
different style and a wide variety of artifacts
to view. Linger over the arms collection in the
second courtyard or the extensive harem.
Built, like the Hagia Sophia, during the
reign of Justinian I, the Basilica Cistern
is a lesser-known but just as fascinating
facet of Sultanahmets historical legacy.
Originally constructed in order to ensure the
citys continued water supply in the event
of a siege, it was also used as a filtration
system for the palace. The slightly creepy
atmosphere of the cistern will make you feel
like youve stepped back to the sixth century;
wend your way through the pillars and take a
peek at the gigantic resident fish.
25



STANBUL
Sultanahmet
Sultanahmet
STANBUL
Archaeology enthusiasts will have the
time of their life checking out the massive
Museum of Archaeology located near
Topkap Palace. Divided into three parts- the
Archaeology Museum proper, the Museum of
Islamic Art, and the Museum of the Ancient
Orient, everything you can imagine related
to stanbuls dramatic history can be found
here. The collection related to Alexander the
Great is among the most striking- it includes
an adorned sarcophagus which was once
believed to belong to the conqueror himself.
Youll also find Sumerian tablets and a host of
marble statues.
Next to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia
Sophia, youll find the Hippodrome of
Constantinople, so named, of course,
because it was built during the Byzantine
period. For centuries, the Hippodrome was
used as a center of sporting events and social
life; unfortunately, the structure did not make
it to modern times unscathed, and today
there are only obelisks and sculptures still
standing. Nevertheless, its a must-see while
youre in Sultanahmet. Check out the German
Fountain in the adjacent square.
Another of the most famous landmarks in
stanbul, the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (usually
known as the Blue Mosque) is centrally
located on the peninsula. Unlike the Hagia
Sophia, its still used as a working mosque,
so youll have to cover up appropriately in
order to enter. The blue tiles inside lend the
building its colloquial title; there are more
than 20,000 handmade tiles decorating the
interior.
Called the worlds shopping oldest mall, the
Grand Bazaar is more than worth a visit
even if you dont have anything to buy. You
can find absolutely anything here, and spend
an afternoon or ten wandering the narrow
alleys. The bazaar is primarily known for
its spices and Turkish carpets, but jewelry,
clothing, and, well, pretty much everything
else on earth can be had here too. Time to
hone your bargaining skills!
Dont miss a hamam experience while youre
here- after a scrub and massage here, youll
feel like youre truly clean for the first time in
your life. emberlita is one of the best and
most famous in the area- give them a call at
+90 212 522 79 74 to book your experience.
If youre hungry, go straight to the famous
Sur Ocakba at tfaiye Caddesi No. 19,
probably the best place in the whole city to
get a kebab. Superbly fresh ingredients and a
friendly atmosphere!
26
STANBUL
Sultanahmet
The consistently award-winning Bahaus
Hostel in Sultanahmet is just a short walk
away from all the major attractions in the
area- you cant get more central than this!
Theyve got everything you need for an
exciting (and comfortable) stay- hairdryers
and free Internet, a DVD collection and free
use of the safe deposit boxes. You dont need
to worry about security while youre here,
because its a top priority for the staff to make
sure that you and your belongings are safe
and sound.
Which is convenient, because
youll be too busy partying
to have time to worry about
whether your valuables are
safe or not. Winter-time activities such as
free movie nights, karaoke nights, and belly
dancing nights give way in the summer to
good old fashioned drinking and dancing.
Theres no lockout, so stumble home anytime
you feel like it! Or if youd rather stay in to
drink, never fear- theres a bar in the hostel.
The dorms are all scrupulously cleaned and
extremely comfortable- theyve even thought
of some cool innovations of their own which
youll wish every hostel included, like privacy
curtains for the dorm beds! Theres also a
fantastic open-air rooftop terrace where you
can enjoy a meal at any time of the day or
night and take in the view all around you of
the Sea of Marmara and the spreading
panorama of Asian stanbul. Of course,
theyre always ready for a party at Bahaus, so
if you want to grab a drink in the moonlight
before hitting the town, you certainly wont
be alone!
Bahaus Hostel stanbul
Akbyk Cad.
Bayram Frn St. No. 11
+90 212 638 65 34
bahausguesthouse@yahoo.com
www.bahaushostelistanbul.com

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STANBUL
Sultanahmet
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Stylish yet simple, stanbul Hostel is a great
choice for budget travelers who value
accessibility and good service. With both
dorms and privates, stanbul Hostel is just a
short walk from the center of Sultanahmet,
ideally located for visiting all of the
monuments in historical
stanbul.
All the dorms have air
conditioning and heating
so you can sleep in comfort. The shared
bathrooms are clean and tidy, not your
typical grotty backpacker fare. Theres a
61-inch TV in the common room with movie
Constructed in a renovated police academy,
this cute pink building is everything youre
looking for if you like to be close to the action
and right in the thick of things. The location
couldnt be better for sightseers, who will
appreciate being just steps away from the
heart of old Istanbul. Youll also appreciate
the huge breakfasts (with more than ten
items available in a morning buffet) and the
attention to cleanliness which means you
wont have to deal with the grime plaguing
so many hostels.
Bring your inside voices and
positive vibes. Piya Hostel is
dedicated to maintaining an
atmosphere of respect without
discrimination on any grounds.
Dorms are available for 4, 6, or 8 people, as
well as one private room. You can also get
one of the two apartment rooms with ensuite
kitchen and bathroom. Tea and coffee are
free for all guests, as well as lockers to store
your valuables.
theater-quality sound, and they show all the
latest movies on a regular basis. Wireless is
available not only in the lobby but in the
rooms as well.
stanbul Hostel is all about comfort and
safety- you can feel at home here while
surrounded by all the fantastic mosques and
bazaars of old stanbul!
stanbul Hostel
Kutlugn St. No. 35
+90 212 516 93 80
info@istanbulhostel.net
www.istanbulhostel.net
Piya Hostel
Akbyk Camii St. No:22
+90 212 458 20 60
info@piyahostel.com
www.piyahostel.com

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The silhouette of Istanbul is a fantastic
accumulation of giant domes, glass roofs,
steel covers, antennas, rusty staircases, cupola,
terraces, laundry lines, wild top gardens
and thin minarets. When the sun falls, the
light turns the landscape horizon into an
extraordinary colour, between pink, orange,
purple and grey. At twilight, muezzins start
to sing.

Mosques are beautiful because as you take

of your shoes, you feel that you come into a
wonderful living-room, with softness of the
carpet, powdery light, lively blue ceramics,
horizontals suspended chandeliers, and
precise marketery on heavy doors. Dont
missRstempaa Camii, in Eminonu, with its
interior almost entirely covered by specifc Iznic
deep blue tiles. Columns, walls, porches, are
all carefully decorated, ceramics are detailed
with refnement and its horizontal ferforge
candelabrum gives an unsuspected volume to
the dome. Pass by the secret Sokullu Mehmet
Paa Camii, just behind Sultanhamet, for its
by Marion Howa
narrow size and neighbourhood atmosphere,
and enjoy the elegant relationship between
turquoise ceramics and havy stones and its
special soft light given by the stained glassed
windows.

Mosques are beautiful because their sharp

presence in the skyline gives an idea of how
the religious establishment have marked,
curved and settled its power in the cityscape,
since 15th century till now. Sleymaniye
Camiiis a relevant case study for its Kulliye,
name of an urban system invented in early
Ottoman Empire. The Kulliye is an organized
religious public space usually composed by
mosque, hamam, hospital, medresa (Coranic
School), kitchen, cemetery, fountain, mental
institution. By contrast with the efervescent
vitality of the streets, the architecture of the
Kulliye is precisely geometrical, wide, clean,
and it suggests how space is used a tool to
settle a political model of society. As Ottoman
establishment had to defy Byzantine times,
Mimar Sinan, chief Ottoman architect in the
Mosques of Istanbul
29

mid 15th century, during the reigns of the
sultan Sleyman the Magnifscent, Selim II and
Murad III, decided to built huge-scale mosques
and imposed its dominant position in the
Kulliye organization.

Mosques are beautiful because you sometimes

wonder how it stands.Sultanahmet Camii,
named also Blue Mosque, is a complex system
of domes and semidomes, which turns the
structure invisible thanks to precise knowledge
of weight. The domes do not stand on walls
anymore but on huge pillars, organized on
a geometrical plan (square, hexagon, or
octagon), that the visitor sometimes barely
guesses. As a consequence, Sinan and his
fellow students could open the walls with
windows, and let the natural light come
inside. He invented also a brilliant acoustic
dispositive through which, in order to absorb
the sound, he integrated some vases in the
walls. Although mosques became castles, their
skin has never been much decorated, and their
dominant presence has always been balanced
with the social institutions of the Kulliye. What
Ottoman establishment settled in Istanbul is
an intelligent demonstration of power: they
settled mightiness without exhibiting wealth.
Mosques are beautiful because they prove that
one can recycle old architecture, instead of
demolishing it.Kk Ayasofya Camiiworth
the trip, not only because of its design inspired
the great Ayasofya built few years later, but
also for its very economical transformation
from being one of the oldest Byzantine church
into a humble mosque. You feel that the stones,
sleeping under the turquoise carpet, have been
used by the time.

Today, Istanbul observes a return of religion

as the mosques are more and more included
in random city planning operations and
fnanced by the government. If architecture is
usually a tool of reproduction of a dominant
socio-political system, lets hope that some
alternative initiatives will live.
30
STANBUL
Kadky
A laid-back and artsy suburb on stanbuls Asian side, Kadky is far less touristy than Beyolu
or Sultanahmet. Jammed full of shops, restaurants, and bars, many stanbulites will tell you that
Kadky is their favorite part of the city. Take the ferry to get here from the European side; frequent
services depart from all the docks, notably Karaky, Beikta, and Eminn. Browse the lively sh
market located at the waterfront, where stall owners shout out prices and enticements for their
wares and you can fnd many a local searching for the best deal in town. Of course, everything is
fresher than fresh. If a restaurant is more up your alley, iya Sofras in Caferaa Mahallesi is a good
choice- they have great local dishes as well as more international fare. . Try Polka Cafe (Moda Cad.
Zuhal St. No:14/C)for an adorable little hole in the wall with kitsch and charm to spare.
In accordance with the more chilled out pace of the Asian side, you can start your visit with a walk
along the Bosphorus in the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Moda. Its one of the most pleasant
walks in stanbul- the area is upscale and pretty, with nice views across the water and numerous
parks and restaurants scattered along the promenade.
Kadkys nightlife has a diferent feel to it than the wilder and more international crowd youll fnd
near stiklal. Still, this side of the Bosphorus is vastly popular with locals, and youll fnd a number
of the citys insider bars and clubs here, most with a much more Turkish feel to them than the
expat-populated haunts across the water. Start your night at Kadife Sokak in central Kadky-
colloquially known as Bar Street, Kadife is bustling with innumerable bars, most of which feature
outdoor seating as well as indoor tables. In particular, look for Arka Oda, which is sure to come up
in just about any conversation with an stanbul-dweller when you broach the topic of their favorite
bars. There are frequent concerts, so check out their schedule of upcoming shows at www.arkaoda.
com.
While in Kadky, plan a stop at Sahaf 26A (Caferaa Mah. Sakz St. No:3/1). Run by the same
collective which manages Cafe 26A in Beyolu, Sahaf is a secondhand bookstore/cafe where proft
is irrelevant next to community, cooperation, art, and the organic spread of knowledge.
(www.kolektif26a.org)
Do not miss our favorite Komu Cafe (Uzun Hafz st. no 83A, Rasimpaa)
a collective cafe/workshop without a boss,
workers and even more interestingly no price !
31
STANBUL
Kadky
The first hostel to break new ground on
the Asian side of the city, Hush Hostel
Lounge is definitely where budget travelers
want to be for a taste of the real stanbul.
Hush is convenient to all kinds of public
transportation- the bus and dolmu stop is
a two-minute walk down the street, as well
as the ferry dock, and its by far the most
suitable option if you have a flight in or out
from Sabiha Gken airport. Even the famous
train station, Haydarpaa, is only a five-
minute walk away- from here you can catch
any east-bound train out of stanbul, to the
far reaches of Turkey and beyond.
Recently opened brand new smart hostel
in one of the best area of Kadky. You will
love Modas lifestyle, with its cute cafes,
home-made food places and view on the
Bosphorous. Also this hostel is just few
minutes walk away from the port, where you
can take the ferry to go to the
European side of the city.
If you had enough of
Sultanahmet, just enjoy the
view of the historical peninsula from the
rooftop terrace of the hostel and enjoy the
Convenience is far from
Hushs only benefit,
though. The building is
unique and attractive,
with a rooftop terrace
and a backyard garden where you can
smoke, read in the shade, or commune
with the resident pets (three turtles and a
number of cats). Although its close to all of
Kadkys best nightlife, Hush itself is more
of a travelers meeting point than a loud and
crazy party spot- youll be able to get a great
nights sleep here.
atmosphere of the Asian side of Istanbul. In
the evenings, the street is full of life, dont
miss it! Ah, did we mention full Turkish
breakfast included?
Hush Hostel Lounge
Hush Hostel Moda
Rhtm Cad.
skele St. No. 46
+90 216 450 43 63
lounge@hushhostelistanbul.com
www.hushhostelistanbul.com
Caferaa Mah.
Gneli Bahe Sok: 50/B
+90 216 330 11 22
+90 541 285 49 04
moda@hushhostelistanbul.com
www.hushhostelistanbul.com

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STANBUL
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Try Polka Cafe for an adorable little hole in
the wall with kitsch and charm to spare. In
this tiny and cute cafe youll find homemade
food, freshly baked cake, an exquisite variety
of teas and infusions and you can taste a
wonderful Irish Coffee during cold winters.
Also the right place to bring your own books
and read in silence during the day or if you
are looking for a quiet spot far from the noise
of the city.
Newly opened concerts place, it has already
become the major venue for this part of
the city. It gives space to a wide variety of
musical genres. Here you will find all the
leading alternative music bands of Turkey.
Also, emerging artists with original ideas
are given priority. So if you want to explore
contemporary Turkeys music scene you are
definitely in the right place.
Entrance is usually not free and it is advisable
to buy tickets in advance, either from the
Sahne or from Biletix (www.biletix.com),
which is the circuit through which you can
This cafe is also a meeting point of folk
musicians: whenever you pass by, youll
probably find someone trying to learn Saz
(traditional Turkish instrument) or playing
violin or improvising some folk Irish music.
Bring your instrument and join the band!
buy the entrance for all the main events in
Istanbul. Before and after the concert, usually
DJ sets take place: perfect opportunity to
mingle with the crowd.
Polka Cafe
Kadky Sahne
Moda Cad. Zuhal St.
No:14/C
+90 216 405 27 48
feridesofugil@hotmail.com
facebook.com/pages/POLKA-cafe
Osmanaa Mh. Osmanck St.
No: 25/E
+90 216 550 04 92
bilgi@kadikoysahne.com
www.kadikoysahne.com
STANBUL
Kadky
33
STANBUL
Kadky Festivals
TURKEY
Music
Akbank Jazz Festival (Istanbul-Ankara-Eskiehir and other cities) : One of the biggest jazz
festivals in the world sponsored by a major bank in Turkey. Usually between mid-October and
mid-November. www.akbanksanat.com
Rockn Coke (Istanbul): Major Popular rock/pop festival sponsored by Coca Cola , definitely
not alternative, but where you can see on the stage famous bands from all over the world.
Taking place in one of Istanbuls suburb in September, with camping option.
www.rockncoke.com
Efes One Love (Istanbul) : Choosen Europes best mid-size music festival. For more info:
www.efespilsenonelove.com
Rock-A ( zmir ) This alternative/non-commercial music festival, taking place in July, is
definetely our favorite. During the festival you can attend many workshops and listen
performances from local bands infront of the beautiful Aegean Sea. Check the website for
details www.rock-a.org
Cinema
Altn Portakal (Antalya): The Golden Orange (sort of Turkish Oscar Awards) is an
international film festival hosted in the city of Antalya, since 1964. Usually in the 2nd week of
October. More information can be found in the website: www.altinportakal.org.tr
stanbul Film Festivali ( Istanbul ): Between March and May , a huge international movie
festival with several venues all around the city. Please note day time sessions are quite cheap
but you need to buy the tickets in advance. www.film.iksv.org
Film Ekimi (istanbul): October Film Festival of Istanbul. The programme can be found at:
www.iksv.org
Traditional
Ahrkap Hdrellez enlikleri (Istanbul): Traditional welcome-spring festival mostly
celebrated by local Gipsys ( called Roman) , best to join the crowds down below Sultanahmet ,
near the sea side for music and fun. The Festival did not happen last year so check the website
to be sure that this year it will be back. www.hidrellez.org
Krkpnar (Edirne): 650 years of traditional oily wrestling games. Every year at the end of june
near the city of Edirne. www.kirkpinar.org
Yeil Yayla Festivali (Rize-Artvin): Usually taking place at the end of July in the beautiful
mountains of eastern black-sea region, a traditional festival full of food and music. Organized
by a non-profit organization called Gola. www.yaylafest.org
34
STANBUL
Islands
About twenty kilometers southeast of
stanbul in the Sea of Marmara lie nine
islands, dubbed the Princes Islands due
to the Byzantine practice of sending
problematic princes there to be taken care
of. Today, the islands are a popular weekend
destination for Turks, and many international
travelers make the trip as well in order to see
the old churches and refined summer homes
there. Except for specialty service vehicles, no
cars are allowed on the islands, which makes
for a pleasant walking environment- have
a stroll or a picnic, or go for a ride in one of
the horse-drawn carriages. The four largest
islands are served by the DO ferries around
ten times per day in the summer; Bykada
(Big Island) is the most popular destination.
Most of the ferries depart from the Kabata
dock, down the hill from Taksim Square.
The journey takes around 50 to 90 minutes,
depending on which boat you take, and a fixed
ticket will set you back 4 TL. Make sure you get
to the ferry terminal early if you want a seat
with a good view!
Take a look at the ferry schedule, which can
be found athttp://www.ido.com.tr. Take note
that the summer and winter schedules are
different, as are the schedules for weekends
and holidays. The easiest docks to catch a ferry
from are Bostanc and Kabata; the majority
of the boats stop at Bykada, with a smaller
percentage docking at the lesser islands (in
order, the stops are Knalada, Burgazada,
Heybeliada, and Bykada). The first
departure from Kabata on a typical morning is
at 6:50 and the last ferry back to stanbul from
the Big Island is at 22:40 (21:50 on weekends
and holidays).
35
STANBUL
Islands
Ylmaztrk Cad. No:15
Bykada
+90 216 382 41 43
info@ayanikolaotel.com
www.ayanikolaotel.com
Islands
STANBUL
Located right in the center of the Big Island,
Marine House has a fantastic view of the
surrounding Sea of Marmara- sit out on the
terrace and take in the scenic beauty all
around you. Still, you wont have far to walk
with your bags- its only about a hundred
meters from the pier, where you can catch
a ferry back to the center of stanbul if you
fancy a trip to the citys historical sites.
Marine House is kid-friendly, with
a whole corner devoted to keeping
your young ones occupied while you
indulge in more grown-up activities (sipping
a beer while you watch the sunset over the
water, maybe?). They have films and music for
everyones tastes.
Tea and coffee are free, so spend a while
hanging out in front of the fireplace with a
drink or surfing the Internet, which is free
here. There are no dorms, but the hotel has
thirty private rooms so there should be one
ready for you when you arrive. Still, call ahead
if possible, as Marine House is definitely a
favorite and the islands can be quite busy in
the summer high season!
Recep Ko Cad. No. 8 Bykada
+90 216 382 29 29
info@marinehousehotel.com
www.marinehousehotel.com
Marine House Boutique Hotel
Boasting some of the most romantic rooms
in Turkey, Aya Nikola is also among the best
located boutique hotels in the country.
The traditional carpets, wooden paneling,
and antique decorations recall a simpler
time, and the wide sun deck will
give you somewhere to enjoy the
feeling of getting back to nature.
Backpackers take note: this is more
of an upscale establishment- come
here if youre looking for something a cut
above the rest in the beautiful and out-of-
the-way setting of the Princes Islands, but
not if youre looking for a cheap place to sling
your pack and get partying.
Aya Nikola is open year-round. Each of the
private rooms is fully heated in the winter;
in summertime, enjoy the organic produce
grown on-site. Rooms are available with or
without a fireplace; book ahead, particularly
for the honeymoon suite!
Aya Nikola Boutique Hotel
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36
Istanbul is well known for its incredible historical heritage and old sites. For this reason, many
times it is forgotten to mention that the city is one of the best for young contemporary artists.
The vibrant Istiklal Street hosts several Contemporary Art galleries, among which the newly-
opened Salt, a no-profit organization funded by Garanti Bank hosted inside an imponent
six-story 19th century building, which has already become one of the most important
cultural complex in Istanbul. Older and more hidden is Msr Apartmant, which you will
find on your right side while walking from Galata towards Taksim. It is indeed apparently
a normal apartments building, except for the fact that each one is home of a different Art
Gallery, among which CDA Projects, Galeri Nev, and Pi Artworks. On the same street you
can visit Arter, (closer to Galata) and you will notice many other galleries hosted by the most
important Turkish banks.
If you feel like you didnt have enough, then walk down from Galatasaray Highschool towards
the Bosphorous along Boazkesen Caddesi and simply keep your eyes open: youll find plenty
of small and medium size galleries and....look up: some of them are not on the ground floor.
By the time youll get at the end of the street, you will be really close to Istanbul Modern,
the largest contemporary art museum of stanbul. You have no excuses, so just walk just
few hundreds meters on your left and pay a visit. Founded in 2004, the museum hosts
international and Turkish artists collections and temporary exhibitions. Advisable to check
the website before to see whats on. There is also an art book library and a wonderful cafe
facing the Bosphorous. Enjoy a tea there only if you are willing to break the backpackers
golden rule and pay 6 TL for it. It is expensive, but quite unique.
For all the artists and all the art lovers, guided
tours around the Istanbuls art galleries by
GriZine, a digital culture and art platform.
The meeting points are: Galatasaray
Highschool for routes in Galta
and Tophane; Milli Reasrans for
Nianta and Akareteler Center
Point for Akaretler. Meeting Time: 14:00
ArtWalk Istanbul
Yeni ar Cad: No: 9/3,
Galatasaray, Beyolu
+90 546 06 15 10
hello@artwalkistanbul.com
www.artwalkistanbul.com
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Contemporary Art
37

STANBUL
Contemporary Art
LGBTT
STANBUL
Although Turkish society can be quite conservative in some areas, stanbul has a range of great
options for gay and lesbian travelers. There are some excellent online resources for the LGBTT
community in Turkey, including www.lambdaistanbul.org (Turkish only) and www.turkeygay.net. We
suggest you to check them out before coming to see the last updates and events.
LGBTT stanbul
Need a rest from the sightseeing before going back to the hostel? Relax on one of the tables
outside Frapp. Cute and colorful small cafe bar right at the end of Istiklal, on Zambak Sokak.
Karaoke time on Thursdays and Sundays!
When at the entrance of the building you see some typical Turkish men drinking ay and
playing cards, dont walk away. You are indeed in the right place. Just climb few stairs and at
the second floor youll find the Chianti Bar, with live music three days a week. Dont miss the
Sanat Msik night (art music) and join the crowd singing along with the performers (Balo St.
No: 31/2).
One of stanbuls longest-running and most popular gay destinations, Tek Yn has a wide
customer base. The roomy interior allows for more comfortable dancing space, where you can
find great crowds (particularly on the weekends) and listen to a selection of mainly Turkish
music. Among Tek Yns most unique features is their no-women-allowed policy. Compared to
straight clubs the prices may seem a little expensive, but if youre willing to splash out a bit for
a fantastic and exclusive experience, this is where you want to be. Check it out for yourself at
Sraselviler Caddesi No: 63 / 1 in Beyolu. Only for gay men.
Gay and Lesbian cafe on Imam Adnan St. No: 7 on the third floor open from 10 am to
midnight. Cozy atmosphere in a slight retro style.
Frappe
Chianti
Tek Yn (One Way)
Mor Kedi
38
STANBUL
Tours
A professional guide can take straight you to stanbuls best-kept secrets. Many
companies operating out of the city also run tours to the rest of Turkey, so if you want
an insider view of the best the country has to offer, consider booking with one of them.
If you are still on the alternative side, check www.istanbulcycles.weebly.com, for a
different way to explore the city on two wheels.
Family-runned business offering a wide
variety of tours, appropriate for professional
travelers who want to find company for
their journey and at the same time avoid the
classic touristic tours. The two brothers of
Before Travel Turkey will guide you through
the beauties of this country, share all the
stories you need to hear about the places you
are visiting and helping you to get the
best prices all around the country.
You can ask for a customized tour or
join the pre-planned ones. In Istanbul
they offer Old City Tours, Bosphorous Tours,
visits to Istanbuls palaces and islands
during different time of the day.
In Turkey, you can rely on them
for trips to Troy, Capadocia,
Gallipoli, Ephesus,
Pamukkale and other special tours. Just
walk in their office or call them if you dont
find what you need on the website. Before
Travels brothers always have something new
to propose!
They also offer car rental service and
Capadocia balloons trips. In case you would
like to have a customized tour, just go to their
website and tick the places you want to visit,
choose your starting point, the
kind of accommodation and
transportation you want
and add any other special
requests you might have.
Great reviews on Trip
Advisor! Check them out!
Before Travel Turkey
Sultan Ahmet Mah. Akbyk Cad.
No: 96/A Sultanahmet
+90 212 638 08 06
info@beforetravelturkey.com
www.beforetravelturkey.com
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STANBUL
Tours
In operation since 1989, Tamzara has plenty
of experience bringing travelers to the
forgotten places of Turkey- they specialize in
getting you off the well-beaten tourist track
and instead on the path to adventure and
less-known spots of natural beauty.
Tamzara Tur
Yeniar Cad. Kalkan Han
No. 36/4
+90 212 251 98 64
bilgi@tamzaratur.com
www.tamzaratur.com
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Tours
STANBUL
Bonita offers some of the most well-planned
and professionally executed tours on the
market in Turkey. Theyre particularly
good at taking your interests and
translating them into an excursion that
youre guaranteed to love, and have
a number of pre-set packages which cater to
certain niches. For example, archaeological
tours will lay bare for you the past of this
Magnaura Tours has two of ces in stanbul, one in
each of the citys major tourist areas- Beyolu and
Sultanahmet, so you can easily drop by and
have a chat with one of the friendly and
professional operators.
fascinating country, while those with an
interest in religious history will love the Seven
Churches tour.
Bonita Tour
Magnaura Tours
Akbyk Cad. No:13, Sultanahmet
+90 212 638 52 76
info@tourbonita.com
www.tourbonita.com
Cankurtaran mah. Kutlugun st.
No:35 Sultanahmet
+90 212 258 28 55
www.magnauratours.com
info@magnauratours.com
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STANBUL
Around
The popular Bosphorus cruises departing
from the Eminn dock are an ideal way to
see stanbul from a unique vantage point.
Usually lasting about an hour and a half,
the cruises will take you north up the strait
and give you a terrific view of scores of the
citys most famous sights, including Topkap
Palace, the Maidens Tower, and Beylerbeyi
Palace.
engelky (meaning hook village) is a
pretty little neighborhood in the Asian
district of skdar. Well-known among the
locals for its charming coastline, engelky
boasts an array of waterside cafes and
restaurants, as well as alluring little teahouses
where you can wile away a long afternoon of
conversation. You can get here by taking the
ferry from Eminn or Beikta.
Located on the European side of the strait,
Arnavutky (meaning Albanian village)
is a today a classic neighborhood in the
modern district of Beikta. Originally a
Greek settlement, Arnavutky was actually
predominantly populated by Jewish settlers
throughout most of its history. Check out
the wooden mansions which date from the
Ottoman period, as well as the numerous fish
restaurants along the coast.
Another worthwhile daytrip takes you to
Polonezky, founded by Polish settlers in the
mid-nineteenth century. Currently there are
around a thousand permanent residents, of
which roughly forty speak Polish as their first
language. Investigate the Polish history all
around the village, including churches and an
interesting cemetery. One of the best stops
for those intrigued by the unique roots of the
place is the Memorial House of Zofia Rizi.
If youre keen to get a tan or go for a swim
without busing it all the way down to the
Mediterranean coast, have no fear: there are
some great beaches right near stanbul. Two
of the best are ile and Kilyos, both on the
Black Sea coast and accessible by bus or ferry
from the city center. Theyre liable to be a bit
crowded in the summer, but the beaches are
well-maintained and the water is perfect for a
refreshing dip.
41


STANBUL
Around
Up for a two-three days out of the noisy crowd of
Istanbul? From stanbuls Esenler Otogar hop on a
bus to Saray or Vize and then from there to Kyky,
a small fishing village on the coast of Black sea
around 160 Km north from Istanbul, embraced by
two rivers and facing the sea. Here you can enjoy the
typical old wooden houses and nice small beaches,
relaxing and quiet during low season, extremely
crowded in July and August and spring bank
holidays (so plan your trip according to this and
avoid it during high season). There are many small
home pensions that you will find once you are there. Enjoy your two days outside the big city
sunbathing and eating good fish. A good place to have a good fish dinner? Walk you way to
Erkinin yeri, near the harbor, a hut hosting a delicious fish restaurant. A hint? Try the shrimps
on butter casserole.
Cute restaurant and pension offering good
meze and fish. Open for breakfast, lunch and
dinner. The owners of the place are really
friendly: dont be intimidated by the fact that
they dont speak English and improvise
some Turkish! Enjoyed the dinner? Try the
breakfast!
Looking for a place to stay overnight in
this tiny village? Check out Ayanikola
Pansiyon, near the Aya Nikola Manastr,
which offers camping place and
colorful bungalows. There is also
a restaurant, with quite reasonable
prices. After your meal, chill out in
their big garden near the river and enjoy the
peacefulness. Nice friendly owners who dont
use email so youll have to ring them at their
mobile phone in case you need to contact
them.
Necip Usta
Ayanikola Pansiyon
Kmrluk Mevkii, Mesut St.
Kyky, Krklareli
+90 288 388 60 68
+90 535 689 88 08
facebook.com
groups/40328782546/
nfront of the Aya Nikola Manastr,
Kyky, Krklareli
+90 542 407 09 25
www.ayanikolapansiyon.com
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KIRKLAREL

42
znik
Iznik is an historical town, around 77
kilometres south from Bursa, famous for its
history and its traditional tiles production.
The town lays by the znik lake, surrounded
by fertile nature and hills, so it is a good
trip for both nature and cultural heritage
lovers. The history of znik goes back to the
Hellenic years. The old name of the town is
Nicaea, well known for the Frist and Second
Councils of Nicaea in the early years of the
Christian Church and for being the capital of
the omonimous empire and later the capital
of Seluk Empire. Nicea was also the interim
capital of the Byzantine Empire, of which it
still keep interesting ruins.
There is also an interesting Roman Theatre
under renovation and an old hamam which
is being renovated (with not too much touch)
and will be opened as a museum. It is also
worth to visit the city museum, where some
interesting pieces of history are kept. We also
suggest to just wonder around and have a
look at all the small mosques and medresses
around.
If you are visiting on summer, also enjoy the
lake side and give it a swim!
znik is reachable by bus from Bursa and
Yalova. If you are coming from Istanbul,
you can get to Yalova with the direct Deniz
Otobus from IDO company.
43



Sahil Yolu (Coastal Road) znik
+90 224 757 13 62
info@iznik-camlikmotel.com
www.iznik-camlikmotel.com
znik
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znikpottery, named after the town in westernAnatoliawhere it was made, is a decorated ceramic that
was produced from the last quarter of the 15th century until the end of the 17th century. The town of znik
was an established centre for the production of simpleearthenwarepottery with an underglazedecoration
when in the last quarter of the 15th century, craftsmen in the town began to manufacture high quality
pottery with afritware body painted withcobalt blueunder a colourlessleadglaze. The meticulous
designs combined traditional Ottomanarabesquepatterns with Chinese elements.
The town became a major center with the creation of a local faencepottery-making industry during the
Ottoman period in the 17th century (known as theznik ini,inmeaningChina). Iznik tiles were used
to decorate many of the mosques inIstanbuldesigned byMimar Sinan. However, this industry declined
in the 18th century and znik became a mainly agricultural minor town in the area when a major railway
bypassed it in the 19th century. Currently the style of pottery referred to as theznik iniis to some extent
produced locally, but mainly inKtahya, where the quality which was in decline has been restored to its
former glory.
Wounderful place where to admire the amazing
Iznik tile art, called ini in Turkish. The founder of
this atelier, Eref, was the one who took back the
famous tradition of original porcellaine and tiles to
the town, thanks to the lessons of Faik Krml, the
last master of Iznik tiles.
This is were the very first workshop
after the disapperence around 300
years ago of the tradition took
place in 1985, and it is now an
important center of traning, carring
A good standard Hotel, but dipped in a pretty
pleasant setting: pine trees around, garden facing
the lakeside with wonderful view at sunset. The
beach is only 100m away. The hotel also hosts a
good restaurant serving traditional food
from the area. The must-try is the
catfish from the lake, bettwer when
enjoyed with some Rak. 24 en-suite
rooms ( very clean bathrooms, with
hot water and hairdryer), with AC,
around 200 workshops a year. As for now, here the
tiles are produced the traditional style in the only
wood-klin of its kind in the whole Turkey. Check out
their workshops on www.iznikcini.com.tr .
television and breakfast included. The hotel also
owns a decent sized olive garden, from which every
November olive oil is produced.
znik Tiles
Eref Erolu Atlyesi
amlk Motel Restaurant
Erefzade mh.
Eref Erolu st. No:26
+90 224 757 24 46
info@iznikcini.com.tr
www.iznikcini.com.tr
znik
44
anakkale / Troy
Originally settled around 3000 BC, anakkale
is the seat of millennia of human history.
Although numerous ancient civilizations
have occupied the region through the years,
the name most commonly associated with
its former inhabitants is Hellespont. Noting
the strategic location of the city on a map,
it should come as no surprise that this
area has been heavily contested; it stands
just on the seafront, guarding the narrow
passage toward the Sea of Marmara and on
to stanbul.
Many visitors arrive in anakkale for a sole
purpose: to tread in the footsteps of mythical
heroes like Achilles and Hector, the warriors
of Homers Iliad. anakkale is the closest
modern city to the position of legendary
Troy, and you can still make the 30-kilometer
trip south to see the ruins left behind by nine
destructions and reconstructions. Poorly-
executed archaeological digs in the late 19th
century caused some damage to the remains,
but theres still a ton left behind to fascinate
the visitor, including a section of a wall from
Troy IV, the stage in which historians suppose
the Trojan War may have taken place.
anakkale itself has taken advantage of the
booming Trojan War tourism by erecting a
massive wooden horse by the harbor. Feel
free to climb up the ladders underneath and
pretend youre about to sack a city!
As you would expect from such a historical
place, there are several museums for those
interested in getting a deeper understanding
of anakkales previous incarnations. The
Archaeological Museum on zmir Caddesi
is of particular note; study the prehistoric
pottery and relics, nearly all of which were
discovered in the surrounding countryside.
For a hearty meal to top off your exploring,
try the elegant seafront Maydos Restaurant
(Yal Cad. No:12). If you are looking for a
quiet place to have a rest, stop by Yal Han
(Yal Cad, No:59) and enjoy a coffee in a cute
relaxing atmosphere.
anakkale is well-connected with the rest of
Turkey; there are flights from stanbul three
times a week and buses are much more
frequent, most of them stopping to let off
passengers at the central ferry harbor.
45
Gallipoli
ANAKKALE
Brits, Aussies, and Kiwis will already be
familiar with the tragic history of Gallipoli.
During World War I, Allied forces attacked
this strategic location in the Battle of the
Dardanelles, so named because it took place
on the northern bank of the Dardanelles
Strait. The intention was to knock the Turkish
forces out of the war, but what resulted was
a staggering loss of life on both sides: a third
of the casualties were Turkish, the rest Allied
troops, with the total death toll exceeding
130,000.
The battle became one of the most important
in Turkish history, as well as for Australians
and New Zealanders, who celebrate ANZAC
Day on April 25th to memorialize the 1915
landings. Indeed, many Antipodeans make a
point of visiting the battlefields of Gallipoli
on this date in order to take part in the rituals
of remembrance at Anzac Cove, flanked by
hundreds of their countrymen.
The area is dotted with memorials erected
in honor of the soldiers on both sides of the
battle. There are separate cemeteries and
memorials for British and Australian troops,
French troops, New Zealand troops, and of
course the Turkish men who lost their lives
at Gallipoli. For a moving reflection on the
places bloody history, walk from Anzac
Cove to the Arburnu Coastal Memorial,
inscribed with Atatrks declaration that the
Allied soldiers who died on Turkish soil are
considered native sons as well.
To visit the battlefields, take the ferry from
anakkale across to Eceabat. From there, you
can ask for current dolmu routes or tour the
area on foot.
anakkale / Troy
46

anakkale
A founding member of the Turkish Youth
Hostel Organization, ANZAC House operates
with over 20 years of experience in the
hostelling business. The accommodation is
particularly geared toward budget travelers
who come to anakkale with the aim of
taking in the legacy of the
historic battles fought in
the surrounding land, and
as such, they specialize
in providing affordable,
simple rooms as well as a
wealth of information.
There are rooms for every style of shoestring
traveler here- dorms, singles, or doubles. You
can find all the facilities youll need to make
your stay comfortable and straightforward,
including Internet, heating, and international
phone services.
In association with ANZAC Hostel, Hassle Free
operates out of the same building, which
really couldnt get any more central- its
just by the harbor in downtown anakkale,
close to everything. The great majority of
tours offered by Hassle Free are focused on
Gallipoli and the World War I battlefields,
although they also run several tours to Troy.
Many travelers stop by in person and begin
their tour right from the
city, but there is also the
option to depart from
stanbul (the stanbul
office is located
Nakilbent Caddesi in
Sultanahmet).
If youre interested in World War I, you
shouldnt miss out on a trip with Hassle Free;
theyll take you on a unique excursion during
which youll approach the bay across the
strait north of anakkale just as the Allied
troops did. Making the same landing will be
moving enough for anyone with an interest
in the history of the war, but youll be extra
grateful for the presence of a professional
guide who can explain, with reference to the
geography, exactly what happened and why.
ANZAC House
Hassle Free Travel Agency
Cumhuriyet Meydan No: 61
+90 286 213 59 69
hasslefree@anzachouse.com
www.anzachouse.com
Cumhuriyet Meydan No: 61
+90 286 213 59 69
hasslefree@anzachouse.com
www.anzachouse.com

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anakkale
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anakkale
Yellow Rose Pension offers dorms, single or
double room option and is one of the better
budget accommodations in the area. It has
also an ideal location, just a minute or two
from the ferry port where the buses from
Istanbul drop you off.
This pension is simple and quite anonymous.
However, it has a spacious garden with tennis
table, luggage deposit and laundry service.
The area is actually interesting to visit with
a guide, since it is the best way to get
to know the history of the battles.
In case you feel like investing some
money in it, consider joining one
of the organized daily tours offered
by Yellow Rose to Gallipoli and Troy,
with visits to all the main archaeological sites
and the memorial museums in company of
professional English-speaking guides. Every
night, after the visit to Gallipoli, screening of
Gallipoli documentary and Gallipoli movie
with Mel Gibson in his young days.
The pension is usually closed in low
season and probably for this reason it has
no heating system. Bring with you some
warm clothes, as it could get quite chilly in
the spring nights.
Yellow Rose Pension
Kemalpaa Mh.
Aslan Abla St. N: 5
+90 286 217 33 43
yellowrosepenson@hotmail com
www.yellowrose.4mg.com
48
Assos faces the Greek island of Lesvos and lies roughly 20 kilometers off the anakkale-zmir
highway. The town is actually in two parts, and you may hear it referred to as either Assos or
Behramkale, both of which appear on road signs. The lower coastal section, which tends to be
exceedingly expensive, is connected with the older village at the top of the hill by a steep and
narrow road.
The upper village is characterized
by cobbled alleyways and old stone
buildings, lending it an antique charm.
For a taste of the towns ancient history,
walk to the top of the hill above the old
village and take a look at the Temple to
Athena, built in the sixth century BC.
Two kilometers east of
Behramkale, in the quieter
and more affordable town of
Kadrga Koyu, youll find the
Assos Kadrga Hotel. Its perfect for travelers
looking for a cheaper alternative to the
expensive lodgings in Assos, and provides
excellent access to some fantastic beaches.
The water here is quite cold and crystal clear,
ideal for a dip after sunbathing. Look out for
the huge tuna fish jumping out in the sea!
You can get some fantastic seafood at the
Assos Kadrga, freshly caught. Most dishes
are accompanied by organic vegetables
grown in the village.
While youre in the area, head 9 kilometers
from the main road to Babakale, the
westernmost point in mainland Asia.
Affordable accommodation is limited, but
its a great place to grab a bite to eat at one
of the many spectacular seafood cafes along
the water.
Assos Kadrga Hotel
Assos / Behramkale
Assos Kadrga Koyu
+90 286 721 70 41
rezervasyon@kadirgamotel.com
www.kadirgamotel.com
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Assos
49


Assos / Behramkale
ANAKKALE
Assos Assos
ANAKKALE
A hidden gem near Assos, Son Gemi is an
outdoorsy, welcoming place to kick off
your shoes and soak in the sunshine. Theyll
provide you with a place to pitch your tent
and offer you some tasty food from the
offbeat cafe, where you can put your feet
up and listen to some alternative tunes. The
waters perfect, bluer than blue and
always inviting for a swim or a
fishing trip; the managers of Son
Gemi can also help you to arrange
diving trips if you want to take a
look from under the waves! Or head
straight to the Rak Table with the aid of
your GPS; its located at 392800 261229.
Unfortunately, theres no public transport
to Sokakaz, but you can take the dolmu
running twice a day from Ayvalk to Glpnar;
get out at the turn for Koyunevi, and take
advantage of the free ride offered from
there by Son Gemi (call ahead for this
service). Take note that the dolmues run
less frequently during the winter months.
Son Gemi Camping
Sokakaz - Ayvack
+90 286 723 40 09
hakmata@gmail.com
www.songemicamping.com
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One of Turkeys two Aegean islands,
Bozcaada is a favorite holiday destination for
stanbullus looking to take a break from the
stress of the megalopolis. As a result, pretty
little hotels and boutiques are springing up
like wildflowers across the island, lending
a fresh charm to the antique houses and
cobblestone streets.
The forty square kilometer island (formerly
known as Tenedos, a name you still may
hear) is short on historical sights, apart from
the impressive and well-preserved castle
which was used by Venetians and Byzantines,
among others. No worries, though- that just
means that youll have more time to stroll
around the towns quaint alleys or sunbathe
on the beach. The water is cold by Aegean
standards, perfect for a cooling swim
which will refresh you doubly after a
morning of walking around in the sun.
The seafood restaurants by the harbor
are excellent but quite expensive; for
more modestly-priced meals, search
the back streets or hop a dolmu 20
minutes south to Ayazma Beach.
Bozcaada is justly famous for its wines, which
are locally produced and widely available.
The tradition of winemaking has been
in place for thousands of years;
ancient coins from the area, in
fact, depicted bunches of
grapes! As you might
expect, numerous winehouses and bars are
scattered across the island; try Corvus, Talay,
or amlba; the latter will give you a tractor
vineyard tour with the purchase of a large
bottle of wine. If you are looking for a good
restaurant and Turkish meze we suggest to
stop by iman Cafe & Restaurant (Sakarya
St. No:4).
To reach Bozcaada, youll need
to take the car-accessible ferry
from Geyikli Ykyeri Port, a little
south of anakkale. One-way
tickets arent sold, but the
return tickets are flexible, and
you arent required to settle
on a date for your voyage
back to anakkale.
You can find the
ferry schedule
at ;
ANAKKALE
Bozcaada
51



ANAKKALE
Bozcaada
Bozcaada
ANAKKALE
Bozcaada Camping is located five kilometers
south of the harbor, reachable by the
dolmues making the trip every twenty
minutes. Just a few hundred meters from the
islands sandy southern beaches, its a
sanctuary of peace and relaxation.
You can pitch your own tent or
hire one if youve come without.
Alternately, you can park
your RV (multiway plugs are
available) or opt for a bungalow.
Breakfast, snacks, and all
sorts of drinks- including
alcohol- are available for
purchase.
Tucked away down a pretty little street,
Mavi Boutique Otel is a picturesque and
welcoming little place. They have a total of
fifteen beds in seven rooms- a single, two
triples, and four doubles. Each room
is bright and clean, with the all-
important air conditioning and
24-hour hot water. When youre
finished wandering the town,
Nar Adaevi is in the center of Bozcaada,
hosted by an amazing Greek house located
in one of the most beautiful and historical
street of Republic Avenue also know as the
Greek district. The house is one of the most
beautiful example of architecture of
the island with the most beautiful
and popular restaurants and Art and
Painting exhibitions surrounding it.
you can head to the garden area, a beautiful
little spot with climbing vines and flowers,
perfect for relaxing with a good book.
Dont oversleep or youll risk skipping
the delicious breakfasts with fresh crops
of their Vineyard.
Bozcaada Camping
Mavi Boutique Otel
Nar Adaevi
Sulubahe, Eski KuleMevkii
+90 286 697 04 42
+90 535 43715 16
campingbozcaada@gmail.com
www.campingbozcaada.com
Alaybey Mahallesi
Murat Bey St. No: 19
+90 286 697 02 19
+90 507 741 05 76
info@mavibutikotel.com
www.mavibutikotel.com
Cumhuriyet Mah.
stiklal St. No: 13
+90 286 697 00 08
bilgi@narbozcaada.com
www.narbozcaada.com
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Turkeys largest island, stunning Gkeada
is a picturesque Aegean heaven close to
anakkale. It was originally called Imbros in
its former incarnation as an Athenian colony,
and although the island was ceded to Turkey
in 1923 as part of the Treaty of Lausanne,
some ethnic Greeks remain in their ancestral
homes and the local culture is tinged with
the customs of their neighbors to the west.
Gkeada is a paradise for divers, with
numerous scuba shops and companies
offering diving lessons as well as equipment.
In addition, the island is home to the
countrys first underwater park. Beaches,
too, are abundant; try the longest and
sandiest, Pnarba Beach, or Aydnck
Beach for bigger waves and better surfing.
After a long day of hitting the beaches, stop
by Yukar Kaleky for a coffee at a breezy
coffeehouse- try Mustafann Kayfesi (Yukar
Kaleky Kilise Meydan).
Camping is possible in many places on
Gkeada- just use common sense! However,
if youre looking for a comfortable bed,
Kalimerhaba Pension (Kaleky Barbaros
Cad. No:258) is a good bet. Breakfast is
included at this clean and tasteful budget
guesthouse, and better yet, youll get a 10%
discount with Hike East. For a more upscale
option, you can check out Zeytindal Hotel
(Zeytinli Village No:168), which offers a touch
of luxury as well as nice views.
As a popular tourist destination, its relatively
easy to reach Gkeada. If youre in a hurry,
you can catch a plane from stanbul to
the centrally located airport on the island.
Otherwise, ferries from anakkale or
Kabatepe will be a cheaper way to travel
to and from the mainland. Gesta (www.
gestasdenizulasim.com.tr) tends to be the
preferred ferry line. You will land roughly four
kilometers from the islands capital of Merkez;
if you dont have your own transportation,
minibuses are available to take you the rest
of the way.
ANAKKALE
Gkeada
53



Gkeada
ANAKKALE
Yakamoz boasts some of the best views in
all of Gkeada. The terrace restaurant in
particular is the ideal place to watch the sun
sinking after a busy day of splashing in the
waves or tanning on a sandy beach.
The motel features 20 rooms with a total
50-person capacity; choose from a double,
a triple, or a quadruple room, each with
hair dryers, air conditioning, and ensuite
bathrooms. Service with a smile is an
important tenet of Yakamozs success, and
all of the employees will be ready to help
you with anything that might make your
stay on Gkeada more pleasant, especially
recommendations for where to go and what
to see while youre in town.
The inspired dishes offered at the attached
restaurant commonly feature olive oil or
seafood, both locally harvested and lovingly
prepared. Youd be hard-pressed to find
fresher ingredients or a better view to enjoy
while taste-testing delicious Turkish mezes!
The Surf Eitim Merkezi (roughly translated
as Surf Education Center) is a terrific
one-stop-shop. They offer not only
windsurfing and kitesurfing services but also
accommodation (and, impressively, were
the first company in Turkey to provide the
combination), so you barely have to step out
of your room to start organizing your day
around some wave-filled adventures.
Newbies to surfing should consider taking
a lesson, which are offered in 1, 6, and 10
hour increments. But classes arent only for
beginners, and more experienced surfers may
also benefit from advanced lessons with Surf
Eitim Merkezis professional instructors. If
youd rather go it alone, you can still rent surf
equipment from the well-supplied shop.
The accommodation is rustic and natural,
with a fresh, pure charm. The stone
architecture and the sea views from
each room will endear you to the place
immediately, and the organic food served up
at the adjoining restaurant will further boost
your impression. Happy surfing!
Yakamoz Motel & Restaurant
Surf Eitim Merkezi
Yukar Kaleky - Gkeada
+90 286 887 20 57
yakamozselcuk@gmail.com
www.gokceadayakamoz.com
narl Mah. Aydnck Mevkii,
Gkeada
+90 286 898 10 22
surf@surfgokceada.com
www.surfgokceada.com
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on accommodation
during low season &
on weekly stays during high season
The little town of Ayvalk, facing the
Greek Aegean island of Lesvos, is a sleepy
seaside rest stop perfect for an afternoon
tour on foot or simply wiling away several
hours indulging in some thankfully tout-
free shopping. Its a picturesque location,
surrounded by rolling hills with pine and
olive tree groves- indeed, one of Ayvalks
biggest claims to fame is rooted in its
production of high-quality olive oil. Speaking
of local foods, dont leave without trying an
Ayvalk tostu, a pressed sandwich with sucuk,
cheese, sausage, and condiments.
Inhabited by Greeks until 1922, Ayvalk
became one of the many towns to participate
in the vast population exchange between
Greece and Turkey. Keep a sharp eye out and
you can spot vestiges of its lost heritage in
some of the crumbling buildings. Hike to
the Devils Banquet, an outcropping with
spectacular views of the town at sunset.
Visit Taksiyarhis Church, built in 1873, for
a view of the most important feature of the
towns religious landscape. The marble inside
makes a stunning backdrop for the reliefs
depicting the life of Jesus. If you have time
to spare, consider giving the Moonlight
Monastery and Saint Nicola Church a look
as well.
Ayvalk is also known for its world-class music
academy for violinists and cellists, as well
as for the Harvard-affiliated Ko University
summer program which brings students here
to study the Ottoman language.
54
BALIKESR
Ayvalk
55


Taksiyarhis is undoubtedly one of the most
beautiful pensions youre likely to come
across. On entering this 140-year old stone
and wooden building, youll feel as though
youve stepped into a special kind of paradise
on earth- the name Taksiyarhis, which comes
from a name given to archangels, is definitely
appropriate here. The three terraces and all of
the common spaces are tastefully decorated
with bright throws and comfy pillows;
stained-glass windows and whimsical wall
decorations complete the picture.
Theres a common kitchen
available for guest use if
you prefer to cook your
own food, although the
owners can prepare a
delicious breakfast for you for ten Turkish
lira if you prefer. Maybe youd like to sample
some of the dishes at the local restaurants
in Ayvalk- no problem, because Taksiyarhis
is centrally located, only 500 meters from
the main square, and the proprietors will be
only too happy to recommend their favorite
eateries. The central location also makes
it easy to reach the beaches nearby, and
catching a dolmu to Sarimsakli or some
of the closer shores is a straightforward
endeavor.
Choose from the dorm room or a range of
privates; all have shared bathrooms due to
the age of the building, but theyre spotless
and youll only have to share with one or two
other rooms. No matter where you choose
to sleep, youre guaranteed to have air
conditioning.
Taksiyarhis Pension
smetpaa Mah.
Maraal akmak Caddesi
No. 71
+90 266 312 14 94
info@taksiyarhispension.com
www.taksiyarhispension.com
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56
Lesvos / Mytilini
Birthday place of many poets and writers of the Ancient Greece, Lesvos (or Mytilini), the third
biggest Greek island, still maintain its cultural charm and the beauty of its fertile land. Olive
trees and pine forests cover most of the hills and crystal clear sea kisses the shore.
Lesvos, which history goes back to the third millennium B.C. has a population of around 80.000
thousands people and is built on the ruins of its ancient times. The island is very famous for its
Ouzo ( Greek liquor similar to the Turkish Rak), its ceramic and wood handcrafts.
Museums and Parks
Dont miss the Barbayanni, one of the famous factory of Ouzo Museum, in Plomari. Also
interesting is the Museum of olive oil in Gera Gulf, where you can see the way oil has been
produced along the history. Absolutely a must, for its uniqueness in Europe, is the Petrified
Forest: a spectacular natural phenomenon due to volcanic activity. The forest covers 15.000
hectares and is estimated to be 20.000.000 years old.
Around the island
Mytilene is the capital of the island, a moderately lively town with almost nothing left of the
old times, but still worth to visit. Molivos, north of the island, is the most interesting town in
terms of cultural attractions, with its traditional architecture and the Gattilusi Castle. To put up
your tent close to the town, head to Molivos Camping. If what you are looking for is some rest
on the beach, head to Skala Eressos, a small town hosting summer resorts but also isolated
beaches.
For the ones who were guided by the interest for the legendary school of Sappho, Eressos, her
birthplace, is the right place to go. Here, lesbians from all around the world are coming every
summer to enjoy the Greek sun.
To discover more about the ancient past of the island you can visit the Archeological Musem
of Mytilene. Towards the South, you may also admire interesting ruins in Epano Skala and
Agios Therapon.
Renting a car is a cheap and practical choice to travel around the island and to move freely
around. For car rental, hotel booking and tickets to other Greek island and Athens, call up
Fotis Tour or pass by their offices just in front of the harbor. Ask for Fatih, very helpful and
multilingual: speaks English, Greek and Turkish. Fatih: +30 69 40 77 5353
GREEK ISLAND
Lesvos/Mytilini
57



GREEK ISLAND
Lesvos/Mytilini
The island is served by an airport with international routes, but if you are coming from Turkey
and want to save some money youd better go by the sea. Lesvos is easily reachable through a
ferry from Ayvalk. Ferries are frequent during the high season, while in low season they are just
3 or 4 days per week.
If you are traveling from Turkey to Lesvos contact Jale Tour, just in front of Ayvalk port:
ferryboats service to the Greek island for 30 Euro round trip (1 and half hour each way). For
Turkish citizens, you can contact Jale Tours for easy visa.
Kouitou (Kuytu in Turkish hidden or canny,
used also in Greek language only in this
island) is a unique art hotel located on the
beautiful island of Lesvos, just a short walk to
the beautiful beaches of Skala Eressos. This
place is definitely our favorite in the island.
The Guesthouse is structured on two floors
facing a cute internal courtyard. Here you
can find also a nice Cafe with honest prices
and some good home-baked cakes. Each
and every of the 15 room is designed and
decorated with a different theme by Alex,
international graffiti and owner of the place
to together with Vaso. Despite
the very affordable rates, the
rooms are almost luxurious
for backpackers standards:
fridge, fan and en-suite
bathroom.
Kouitou Hotel
Skala Eresos
+30 225 305 33 11
kouitou.hotel@gmail.com
www.kouitouhotel.com
Jale Ferryboats
Ayvalk Port
+90 266 331 31 70
info@jaletur.com
www.jaletur.com
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Alibey Island
BALIKESR
The clean and affordable Aiyan Pension is
a great choice if youre looking for a fully
equipped yet no-frills place to stay, hassle-
free. Theres a washing machine, fridge, iron,
and stove for general use by guests, and the
rooms are much better equipped than the
majority of pensions- youll find a hairdryer,
a satellite TV, A/C, a mini-fridge, and an
ensuite bathroom. And if youre eager to
keep in touch or check the news,
never fear. Theres a strong
wireless signal so you can
use the Internet in your own
room as well as in any of the
common areas.
The manager can give you tips and directions
for anything you might want to see on
or around Cunda, including sights and
restaurants. While youre here, poke around
the fun gift shop, featuring a number of
products made from local olive oil- its a
great way to pick up a souvenir of the region
without having to deal with touts.
Aiyan Pansiyon
Ali etinkaya Meydan
No: 10
+90 266 327 19 25
osman@cundaasiyan.com
www.cundaasiyan.com
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Otherwise known as Cunda, Alibey Island
is connected to Lale Island and Ayvalk by
a road bridge. Accordingly, dolmues and
buses are available from the mainland if you
dont have your own transportation.
On the north edge of Cunda, look out over
Pordoselene Bay, which enjoyed a brief
interval of fame as the home of a dolphin
who saved a drowning boy. Another local
unmissable is the breathtaking Patria Bay,
where youll find abandoned Greek villages
ringed with wildflowers and herbs.
Shoppers should check out the weekly
market (the ky pazar) held on Thursdays-
keep your eyes open for good deals on
knockoff brand name goods and heaping
piles of locally-grown food for dirt-cheap
prices.
Definitely plan an afternoon around the
iconic Ta Kahve (Sahil Boyu No:20), the
islands most famous coffeehouse by a long
shot. The place has been around for decades
and has become something of a local
landmark.
Fancy some wine instead? Opt for Vino
arap Evi (Cumhuriyet Cad. No:8), where
you can enjoy amazing wine and meze in a
relaxed, beautiful atmosphere.
59


60
zmir
The modern city of zmir is characterized by
wide streets lined with designer boutiques
and massive, glass-fronted offices. As
Turkeys third-largest city, its a hub of both
transportation and business, and generally
speaking has a more contemporary,
commercial feel than other major urban areas
in the country. In fact, you may at times feel
that youre in Greece or southern Italy rather
than Turkey.
That vibe, however, owes a lot to the setting
as well. Ringed by picturesque mountain
ranges and nestled next to a spreading bay,
zmir is as Mediterranean as it gets. Palm
trees grow in abundance along the broad
boulevards of the city and cool sea breezes
are a welcome relief from the maddeningly
hot and humid summers which plague
travelers to the region. The spring and fall,
when the temperatures are more reasonable,
are nice times to visit zmir; winters, but
contrast, tend to be cold and rainy. Snow is
rare, although not unheard of.
zmir is an exceedingly old city. It was
founded more than 5000 years ago as the
Trojan city of Smyrna; Homer spent much
of his life here. Smyrna changed political
hands many times over the centuries,
belonging to not only the Greeks but also
the Persian empire, the Roman empire, the
Byzantines, the Ottoman empire, and (of
course) modern Turkey. Still, theres not as
much in the way physical history in the form
of ruins as you might as expect. zmirs had
a bit of a problem with natural disasters
throughout its past, and suffered through
several which destroyed large numbers of the
historical buildings. An earthquake around
200 AD erased much of the citys original
foundations, and- much more recently- a
devastating fire in the 1920s again leveled
a significant portion of zmirs historical
buildings.
Also make sure to plan a visit to one of zmirs
near-constant fairs - you may see signs saying
zmir Fuar. A multitude of events are staged
throughout the year, with themes such as
shoes, technology, agriculture, pets, and
much more. You can check out the schedule
online at www.izfas.com.tr.
Check out Kadifekale, an impressive castle
crowning a hill, as well as the asansr
(elevator) which was originally constructed
in 1907.
61


zmir
Mehur Tavac Recep Usta (also known as
Tavac), (Atatrk Cad. No:364 Kordon) is the
best South East Turkish Cuisine available in
town. Fish, grilled sea bass and mezes, usually
the fish is fresh and plenty in all seasons.
Kordon mitky Balks offers great deal
of fish in Alsancak.
Kumru, a warm sandwich, made with
a special bread with sesame seeds,
Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and
tomatoes, also a vegetarian version
is available without the sausage and
with the addition of green pepper. This
is something not to be missed while in
Izmir, because its almost impossible
to find it anywhere else in the country.
You can join the nightlife on Kbrs
ehitleri Caddesi in Alsancak, and
go find the Gazi Kadinlar Street. All pubs
and cafes in Kordon (Alsancaks waterfront)
are attractive in nice weather. 1448 St. at
Alsancak is full of bars and pubs from one
end to another.
zmir
zmir has a young population and a liberal
reputation, and you can probably guess
what that means when you put the two
together: a thriving nightlife scene, as well as
hundreds of hangouts for university students
and recent grads. The Alsancak district is
the place to be if youre looking for a rowdy
good time, with tons of rocking clubs and
bars which stay open- and packed- until the
wee hours of the morning. Try a midnight
walk along Kordon, the waterfront area of
Alsancak, and you wont be disappointed.
During the daytime, you can find tons of little
cafes here as well.
Accommodation options, too, are numerous.
A huge range of hotels to suit your budget
can be found within a short walk or bus ride
from the city center. Hotel Baylan (1299
St. No: 8)in Basmane is one recommended
option, with excellent international food
(including Chinese and Indian) and a pool
for guest use. Otherwise, you can try the
clean and welcoming Konak Saray Hotel
(Anafartalar Caddesi No: 635, ankaya),
featuring a terrace restaurant and set in a
restored Ottoman building from 1855. In
operation for over sixty years, Gzel zmir
Otel ( 1368 St. No: 8 ) is also a popular and
fairly well-known budget option in zmir.
Eat & Drink

62
This once-drab coastal town has been on
the upswing for several decades now, and
has transformed into a popular tourist
destination. Hordes of travelers descend on
its pretty streets and fountained gardens
come summer, and its always a good idea to
book ahead here to make sure you dont miss
out on anything.
The downtown area doubles as the old city,
with many of the buildings dating back
several centuries. Its definitely good for
an afternoon stroll, but the real attraction
of eme is the summer fun of plunging
The mountainous Greek island of Chios, lying
approximately seven kilometers away from
the Turkish coast, makes for a fantastic day
trip or (increasingly commonly) a fun and
convenient visa run for foreigners looking to
extend their three-month tourist stamps.
Ferries from the mainland are extremely
common, making the trip hasslefree for the
most part. They depart from eme harbor
and generally take around forty minutes
to complete the crossing. Consider renting
a bike once you arrive; its a great way to
explore the island without the burden of a
into the sea at one of the beaches or trying
your hand at windsurfing. One of the most
happening spots for a relaxing day on the
sand, a night out, or even a big-name concert
if your timings right is Babylon Aya Yorgi
(on Aya Yorgi Beach, as the name suggests).
They have a pub, a restaurant, and a packed
event schedule.
Also check out Alaat, roughly 8 km away
from eme. This tiny town is full of old Greek
houses and windmills, lending it an air of
unquantifiable charm. Windsurfers visit by
the ton.
car. The primary sight to be seen on Chios
(apart from the largest town, bearing the
same name and boasting an eye-catching
castle) is Neo Moni, a monastery from the
11th century which has been named a World
Heritage Site by UNESCO, right in the middle
of the island.
If you plan to stay overnight, consider Chios
Rooms in Chios (Leoforos Aigaiou 110, on the
harbor). Its a shady, pretty guesthouse run by
an international couple, Kiwi and Greek, with
a nice library and picturesque setting.
Getting To The Greek Islands
ZMR
eme
63



ZMR
eme
With the same bus for esmealt, ask the driver
to drop you off at Palm Bungalows Beach
Club. This place, recently opened and very
well organized, is unexpectedly
visited by tourists from all around
the world. Still they are the only
persons with which youll have
to share the private access to the
sea and the garden right next to
it. The Bungalows are new and they look more
like tiny fully furnished comfort apartments.
As the name suggests, the place also operates
as a beach club and beach parties on certain
days of the week with the performance of the
DJ brings the peak of
entertainment. Enjoy
the clean waters of
emealt, during the
day and at night, when
you can ask to be served
dinner right by the sea.
Palm Bungalows Beach Club
Mavi Plaj Cad. 223 St.
No:14 emealt
+90 232 755 10 15
info@palmbungalowsbeachclub.com
facebook.com/pages/Palm-
Bungalows-Beach-Club
During high season months, the area of
esme is packed with locals and tourists: it
is hard to find an empty spot on the beach
and when you do, youll still have to be so
close to your umbrella-neighbours that youll
feel like you have to share your packed lunch
with them.
If what you are looking for is a peaceful spot
away from the crowd and all sorts of tourists,
take a bus from eme to Urla, a tiny village
facing the sea. The word Urla (which is also
the name of the peninsula) comes from the
Greek word meaning marshlands. Although
not very well-known, the history of the
peninsula goes back to pre-Hellenistic times,
as recent excavations in Limantepe revealed.
Some of the pieces of art and sculpture
encountered during the research are now
exposed in Louvre.

Dont stay in Urla though, as there is not
much left to see unfortunately. Take an urban
bus to emealt, quiet fishermens village
and harbor. This area, quiet and relaxing
during the day, hosts a night-time cloth
market and lively local entertainment by the
sea, with traditional Turkish music and lots of
fish restaurants.
Urla
ZMR
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ZMR
Foa
Roughly 70 kilometers north of central zmir, the small municipality of Foa has a rich history
and some beautiful beaches- day-trip it or stop by on your way north. Dont be confused by the
names, though, as there are two towns called Foa. Yenifoa (New Foa) lies south of the one
you probably want to visit, Eskifoa (Old Foa), with the similarly-dubbed Phocaea in the middle
of the two.
The name of this originally Greek city comes from the word for seal (fok in Turkish) due to the
huge communities of the animals living in the nearby sea. There are tons of well-preserved
archaeological sites here, mostly stemming from the Greek period prior to the Persian invasion
in 546 BC, which effectively ended the golden age of Foa. One of the most impressive of these
is the Temple of Athena, which is still undergoing excavations. Also be sure to see the ancient
theater, as well as the numerous historical mosques from more recent periods. Foa is mostly
about sea, so Fokai Restaurant ( 121 St. No: 8 ) is an excellent choice for sea food, combined
with traditional Mediterranean mezes and rak . If you would like to continue on concentrating
Aegean Sea , check out Delphin Tour Boat ( Kkdeniz Liman ) for low-volume, relaxing and
not crowded (10 people limit) tours around Foa.
Since it lies quite some way outside the main center of zmir, getting to Foa used to be
a confusing and time-consuming affair. Fortunately, this is all changing this year with the
installation of a brand-new metro train throughout the whole of zmir which is projected to cut
travel times in half. From the airport, you can take the Aliaa train and reach Foa on a single
ticket; get off at Bierova and take a dolmu the last 3 kilometers to town.
Of course, you can still reach Eskifoa by other means as well. If you have your own car, take the
road north toward anakkale and turn after 39 kilometers, continuing 26 more kilometers until
you reach Foa. Otherwise, buses are also available from central zmir, running from six in the
morning until eleven at night- but the metro is likely to be the cheapest and least convoluted
method.
Getting to Foa
65
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Foa
Foa
ZMR
Siren Pension is a tidy and calm retreat
situated in the heart of Foa, just a short walk
from the beach. The managing family of the
pension has over twenty years of experience
running accommodation for locals and
international travelers alike; they speak
English and Turkish as well as German, and
are always ready to give you the lowdown on
the area or just chill out with you on
the terrace and have a chat.
Twelve rooms are available, with
options for two, three, or four
guests. Theyre closed in the winter (from
December to March), so the pension has a
permanently summery
feel to it. The balconies
found in most of the
rooms, as well as the
common terrace, get
plenty of sun and have awesome sea views,
great for tanning or just hanging out with a
drink in hand to reflect on your day.
Siren Pansiyon
smetpaa Mah.
161 St. No. 13
+90 232 812 26 60
info@sirenpansiyon.com
www.sirenpansiyon.com
If its character youre after in Foa, dont
hesitate: make your way directly to yon
Pension. The place is full of fun and bright
decorations and the staff is a joy as well,
with a terrific sense of humor and a mission
to make your stay memorable. Theyll insist
that you let them know if anything is amiss,
and they mean it- yon not just a business
but also a home. They go the extra mile
here, with friendly touches like delivering a
morning paper to your door if you request it!
The rooms are all spacious and well-
equipped. Wireless Internet is available, as
well as satellite TV and mini fridges in most of
them. You can even check out their website
beforehand and look at pictures so you can
reserve the room you like best (be warned
though, their English site is still under
construction).
Ask about car rentals and tours- the staff at
yon can get discounts for you!
yon Pansiyon
smetpaa Mah.
198 St. No. 8
+90 232 812 14 15
bilgi@iyonpansiyon.com
www.iyonpansiyon.com
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& free pick-up
within Foa

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Bergama
Bergamas Acropolis
Bergama, about two hours from zmir or
nearly ten from stanbul by bus, makes a
terrific hub for exploring the historical sites
around Turkeys north Mediterranean coast.
With 60,000 residents, its much smaller
than zmir and can be a pleasanter place
to to base yourself out of if youre not the
huge-metropolis type. Still, Bergama is large
enough to offer pretty much anything youre
looking for in a travel headquarters.
Bergama contains a number of truly awesome
historical sites; even if youre planning to
spend most of your time exploring nearby
towns and ruins, dont forget to budget
You can spot the magnificent acropolis,
towering over the eastern side of the city,
from anywhere in Bergama. You can walk or
drive up to the summit, some five kilometers
from the center of the city. There is an
admission fee, so make sure youve got some
lira on you when you make the hike.
The temples of Trajan and Athena are among
the most impressive buildings to be found
here. Both have been partially restored using
the original materials. The site of the Library
of Pergamum lies between the two; once
containing over 200,000 volumes, it was
famous for its size in ancient times.
some time for the gems contained in the
city proper. The temples and mosques are
of particular interest, and anybody with
an archaeological bent will appreciate the
archaeology museum displaying many of
the finest artifacts from around the area.
If youre on the hunt for souvenirs, consider
Bergamas booming carpet scene. Those on a
tighter budget should consider looking for a
bottle of homemade wine. Its made primarily
for and by locals, so dont feel like youre
getting tourist kitsch! If you are looking for
a hamam experience, check out Hac Hekim
Hamam ( Cumhuriyet Cad.)
Also well worth checking out is the majestic
Hellenic Theater behind the temples,
from which you can gaze out over the
breathtaking panorama of Bergama below.
When youre finished wandering up and
down the well-preserved steps of the theater,
take the promenade over to the Temple of
Dionysus.
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Bergamas Acropolis
The small settlement of Allanoi lies approximately 20 kilometers from Bergama; make it a
day-trip if youre basing yourself out of the city. Allanoi, famous for its natural spa, enjoyed the
height of its prominence around the second century AD under the Roman empire. Curiously,
there is only one known mention of the site in ancient documents; Aelius Aristides made a note
of it in his discussion of the healing sciences around 100 AD.
Unfortunately, a plan laid by the Turkish State Hydraulic Works in the 1990s calls for
necessitated damming the lya River in order to increase the efficacy of agriculture around
Bergama. Despite heated protests from UNESCO and the European Union (among others), the
dam has recently been completed and much of Allanoi now lies under a thick layer of sand.
Allanoi
Bankalar Cad. No: 71
+90 232 633 38 22
Bergama
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Odyssey Guest House is a book-
lovers paradise! Rumored to be
the largest in all of Turkey (okay,
its an unconfirmed rumor, but
if its not the biggest then its
certainly close), their book exchange ranks
up there as a must-see in Bergama. Grab
a novel or head to the reference section if
youre trying to put together a plan for your
next few days; they have offerings in tons of
different languages.
Stay in one of their eleven rooms, all of which
have AC and most of which also feature
private bathrooms. Theres hot water 24/7, so
your showers will always be nice and steamy.
The kitchen is available for guests to use- try
your hand at Turkish cooking and then take
your meal up to the scenic terrace or down to
the spacious common room. Laundry service
and breakfast are available for an extra fee.
Odyssey Guest House
Talatpaa Mah.
Abachan St. No. 13
Tel: +90 232 631 35 01
info@odysseyguesthouse.com
www.odysseyguesthouse.com
Genuinely cooked Turkish food. The friendly
owners Ertan and Volkan are well famous in
town and in the area of Izmir for their Kfte
(Turkish meatballs), so dont forget to order
at least one portion!! We suggest you to try
also the Kaymakl Kemalpaa dessert,too.
ieksever Kebap Salonu
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Ephesus is one of Turkeys foremost archaeological sites: and no wonder, as it has a long and
varied history which left behind some of the countrys most stunning ruins anywhere. Located
about four kilometers from Seluk, its possible to walk to the site; otherwise, you can take one
of the dolmues from the town center, which depart every fifteen minutes. Ephesus is known in
Turkish as Efes, which, if youve been here for a while, youll probably instantly recognize as the
name of the most popular brand of beer in Turkey!
Ephesus was originally founded by the Greeks and enjoyed a prominent status as one of the
twelve cities of the Ionian League. After it was conquered, it was for many years the second
largest city in the entire Roman empire, after Rome itself. In fact, in the first century BC, Ephesus
was the second-largest city not only of the empire but of the world.
The famous Temple of Artemis, known for being one of the seven wonders of the ancient
world, was located here. Sadly, it was destroyed in 401 AD by an angry multitude and the only
part which can be seen today is a lone column. Still, archaeology enthusiasts will be far from
disappointed by the remarkable ruins still in abundance here.
Dont miss the Library of Celsus, with its grand entrance, which once housed over 12,000
volumes and had reading rooms constructed particularly
to take advantage of natural light. Also see the
temples of Hadrian and Domitian, in
various stages of reconstruction, which
feature wonderful reliefs. Also check
out the recently-discovered gladiator
graveyard.
You can see many artifacts from
Ephesus in the archaeological
museum in nearby Seluk,
although a large percentage of
the finds have been relocated
to the British Museum and the
Ephesos Museum in Austria.
Ephesus
ZMR
Ephesus
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Ephesus
ZMR
Ephesus
Ephesus
ZMR
If you normally shy away from organized
tours but still wish you could reap the
rewards of being shown around by a
professional, No Frills is for you. Unlike many
other tour companies, they recognize that
youd rather spend your time seeing the
sights and learning about the fascinating
history of Ephesus than being dragged into
yet another gift shop. No Frills promises just
that- an informative and fun experience
without the hassle of shopping stops.
They offer a range of different
tours to fit your schedule
and your budget. Among the
more popular options are
the Ephesus tour (half day or full day) and
the perennial favorite, the ANZAC tour,
of particular interest to Kiwis, Brits, and
Aussies. A tour with No Frills is an interactive
experience starting from right when you
book- make sure to let them know if youd
like to see something which isnt on the
normal route, or if you have any special
needs youd like them to accommodate.
No Frills Ephesus Tours
Atatrk Mah. Sen Jean Cad.
No: 3A, Seluk
+90 232 892 88 28
max@seaspirittravel.com
www.nofrillsephesustours.com
Another obvious favorite with traveling
Aussies and Kiwis, ANZ Guesthouse is
colorfully decorated in the Turkish style with
couches and kilims galore. Kick off your boots
and head to the rooftop terrace for
nice views and good company.
Theres a book exchange so you can
plan out the next leg of your trip- of
course, dont hesitate to pose your questions
to the staff, also, since theyre full of
recommendations and great advice. Theres
no bar here, but feel free to head to the store
and bring back your own beers if you want to
relax with a cold one in the afternoon or save
some money by working on a bit of a buzz
before you hit the town at night.
Private rooms can house between one and
four people, and there are also dorms for
12-15 if you want to stretch your budget a
little farther.
ANZ Guesthouse
1064 St. No. 10,
Seluk
+90 232 892 60 50
info@anzguesthouse.com
www.anzguesthouse.com
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Free copy of
Ephesus
guidebook
70
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Ephesus
Run by a hospitable English-speaking
family, Boomerang Guest House is an
affordable and chilled out place to
sling your bags and have some fun.
Anybody is welcome at Boomerang, but
as the name suggests, Aussies will feel
particularly at home here- from Down
Under-themed decor to the complimentary
Vegemite on offer at breakfast-time, this
guest house is packed with little touches to
make backpackers feel like theyre back in the
southern hemisphere.
But dont get too comfortable lounging
around, because Boomerang has got a
perfect location for exploring the ancient
wonders of the area. Its just a short walk from
the archaeological museum if youre dying
to check out some of the artifacts found
at nearby Ephesus. If youre in more of an
outdoorsy mood and want to head straight
to the site itself, no worries. Boomerang
can help you arrange transport to Ephesus.
Theyll also organize tours for you to nearby
irince, Pamukkale, or to the Greek islands to
the west.
Take your pick between
singles, doubles, triples, or
dorm rooms with ensuite
bathrooms; all of them
come standard with clean
linens and a traditional Turkish breakfast
included in the price.
If youre looking for a change of pace and
a different way to explore Seluk, consider
hiring one of the bicycles offered by
Boomerang.The staff can also arrange airport
transfers or help you with a broad spectrum
of other travel matters- tours, car rental, plane
tickets, and bus schedules, to name just a few.
Also check out the affiliated Boomerang
Restaurant and Bar, where all kinds of
food is served, from Turkish-style grills and
other local favorites to salads and more
international fare for those of you battling a
little homesickness. Its right next door the
the hostel in a renovated historical building
with a beautiful garden.
Boomerang Guest House
Atatrk Mah. Sevgi Yolu
1047 St. No. 10 Seluk
+90 232 892 48 79
boomerangguesthouse@hotmail.com
www.boomerangguesthouse.com

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Ephesus irince
ZMR
The tiny village of irince was populated by Greeks until the population exchange which took place in 1923;
since then, Muslim Turks have made it their home. Only eight kilometers from Seluk, irince is an easy day-
trip. Taking the dolmu to get there is a hassle-free experience, and theres one departing in either direction
every hour.
Today, irince is primarily known as a producer of fine fruit wines. Perhaps surprisingly, this is a recent
development, and the shift toward wine tourism has come only in the last several decades after a German
man named Helmut Hermann Krauss fell in love with the town and decided to start producing wine there.
After teaming up with a local and establishing the Artemis irince restaurant, he pioneered a line of
delicious and aromatic fruit wines- take an afternoon and sample them for yourself! It all started with the
blueberry variety, so you might want to begin with that one as well.
irince isnt just about wine, though, and
there are plenty of alternative experiences to
be had here. One of the coolest is certainly
a visit to Simyac handicrafts center, where
they specialize in egg painting. Eggs are
symbolic in the pagan traditions of hundreds
of cultures worldwide, and Turkey is no
exception; theyll give you a guide to the
symbolism so you can work out what each
one means for yourself!
Pagan Egg Painting at Simyac
irince Village
+90 232 898 32 64
yumart@gmail.com
Dereli Kaplankaya Wines is one of irinces
most esteemed wine houses. Theyve been
in operation since 1999 and have built
a solid reputation for themselves as one
of the classiest establishments in town-
stop by and see the shop yourself, all
dark wood and fancy kilims. They use
the natural flavors of the fruits without
artificial flavoring.
Dereli Kaplankaya Wines
irince Village
+90 232 898 32 28
info@sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com
www.sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com
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Based in a restored 200-year old building,
Dionysos is a stylish homestead with an old-
fashioned vibe. Dont be deceived, though-
all the modern amenities you want to make
your stay comfortable are, of course, available
here, including air conditioning and wi-fi and
ensuite bathrooms in all of the rooms.
Dionysos Houses
irince Village
+90 532 217 87 05
info@dionysospension.com
www.dionysospension.com

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Kuadas
Kuadas (Bird Island, referring to the small
Pigeon Island just off the mainland) is a resort
town popular with international visitors and
Turks alike. With roughly 50,000 permanent
residents, Kuadas spends the winters in
relative silence, growing significantly
in the high summer season with
the influx of tourists. The modern
town center and harbor area is
lined with shops and small cafes,
where you can find good deals on carpets
and other souvenirs with some patience
and a little skill at
the age-old art of
haggling.
Accommodation options are numerous here,
but one of the most highly-recommended is
without a doubt Sezgin Hotel, which offers
single, double, or triple rooms. The owner is a
former traveler himself, and has gone out of
his way to furnish the place with everything
you might need for your life on the road.
Theres an Internet cafe if you dont have your
own laptop along (and wi-fi for those of you
who do); log on here for a bit and smoke a
water pipe, locally known as nargile.
Theres an outdoor swimming pool and a
book exchange as well, the latter featuring a
number of guidebooks to the region so youll
have no trouble planning out the next leg of
your journey. If its recommendations youre
after, though, another awesome resource is
the staff themselves, who have done their
share of traveling around Turkey and have
tons of ideas ready to offer you in English,
German, Korean, or Japanese. Also check out
the restaurant and barbecue in their beautiful
garden! Breakfast is a buffet, included in the
price, so youre sure to start each day with a
full stomach.
Getting to Kuadas is usually a pretty
straightforward affair; catch a bus from most
cities in Turkey. A stay in Kuadas is also a
great opportunity to take a brief sojourn
in Greek territory, as there are daily ferry
services to the Greek island of Samos.
Sezgin Hotel & Guest House
Aslanlar Cad. No. 68
+90 256 614 42 25
sezginhotel@hotmail.com
www.sezginhotel.com

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Pamukkale
DENZL
Used as a spa since antiquity, Pamukkale is one
of the countrys most famous destinations for
tourists and Turks alike. Pamukkale has been
famous for its natural spa since at least the
second century BC, when it was a thriving Greco-
Roman locality believed to heal bathers of a
wide variety of ills, including rheumatism, heart,
stomach, and skin diseases, and even high blood
pressure. The hot waters flow from the white
geological formations, known as travertines,
which give the town its name (Pamukkale means
cotton castle in Turkish).
While youre in the region, also check out the
ancient city of Hierapolis (founded, as the
name suggests, by the Greeks). Traditionally the
jumping-off point for visitors to the hot springs,
Hierapolis houses a number of impressive relics
from its early days.
Youll most likely pass through the larger nearby
city of Denizli before continuing on to Pamukkale
and Hierapolis, as the majority of buses and
trains stop here. If youre coming in by air, the
closest airport is also in Denizli and is an hour
distant.

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DENZL
Pamukkale
With both dorms and private rooms available,
theres something for everyone here. Or if you
really want to get back to nature, consider
pitching a tent in the camping area which is
opened for the high season.
Enjoy the huge buffet breakfast
served every morning and
included in the price of your
room, go for a swim in the pool, or take in the
view of the travertines... youll find a pleasant
and welcoming atmosphere at this family-
run pension, and all the help you need with
further bookings. The food is fantastic, and
youll love the atmosphere too. In summer,
you can take your meals on the rooftop
terrace and watch the the slow pace of village
life as the locals go about their day far below
you; in winter, you might prefer to eat by
the fireplace and warm up as you fill your
stomach with tasty Turkish cuisine including
meatballs, kebabs, and vegetarian dishes, all
made on-site and filled with healthy, organic
ingredients. Everyone loves a barbecue,
especially the staff at Artemis Yrk, so put
on your shades and gather around the grill!
Tea is free all day- choose from an assortment
of blends.
For world-weary travelers, ask about the
Turkish baths, the sauna, and the professional
staff masseuse. Or just pick out a book from
the book exchange and relax for a while!
When youve caught your breath, you can
take a gander at the travel desk and get some
advice on your next port of call.
Artemis Yrk Hotel
Pamukkale Kasabas
Atatrk Cad. No. 48 / A
+90 258 272 26 74
info@artemisyorukhotel.com
www.artemisyorukhotel.com

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The closest accommodation to the Hierapolis
entrance gate, Mustafa Pension could not
be more conveniently located. As you
would expect at a hostel close to one of the
countrys foremost symbols of relaxation, this
is a calm and laid-back kind of place where
you can chill out and have a tea or coffee
(free all day, including apple
tea!) and share a water pipe with
friends if the mood strikes you.
Located just in front of the affiliated Artemis
Yrk Guesthouse, Hermosa is a relatively
new company brimming with personality and
enthusiasm. In partnership with Go Holiday
Turkey, they offer a bursting package of
cool trips and unique tours
to bring your trip to the next
level. Turkish cultural tours
are a mainstay, allowing you a
look into the heart of modern
society in this fascinating
country, or if history is more up your alley
you can opt for a more traditional guided
tour bringing you to all the hotspots, from
Cappadocia to Gallipoli.
Dream cruises are organized at Hermosa as
well, if youve got a bit of a craving to be
out on the open blue sea. Or if youre more
into sweeping views, you can sign up for a
hot air balloon flight over the Cappadocian
moonscape. Both standard and customized
tours are available, and Hermosa will work
with you to figure out a great itinerary
according to what you and your group most
want to see during your stay.
The staff is full of interesting history
and travelers tales which will spark your
inspiration for the next leg of your journey.
Dont hesitate to ask them any questions
you may have! Dorms and private rooms are
available.
Mustafa Pension
Hermosa Tours
Kale Mah. Atatrk St. No. 22
+90 258 272 22 40
info@mustafahostel.com
Kale Mah. Atatrk Cad. 5/A
+90 258 272 26 66
info@hermosatoursturkey.com
www.hermosatoursturkey.com
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DENZL
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After a while on the road, most travelers
succumb to the fatigue of days spent in
buses and indistinguishable dorm rooms... if
that sounds familiar, you cant afford to miss
Maysevi. Their whole philosophy revolves
around the idea that everyone
needs to get back to nature now
and then. Youll feel like youre in
Eden here. Anyone who shares
Maysevis appreciation for nature
will love the homegrown organic food and
the beautiful garden; theres also a common
kitchen so you can prepare your own meals
if cooking is your forte.
Maysevi
nidibi Mah.
Barzalar St.ak
+90 252 243 44 36
mayisevi@gmail.com
www.mayisevi.com
Rzgar is absolutely a one-stop shop for
everything you need in Gkova. Theres
a waterfront cafe and bar where you can
grab a drink and chill out in the sun while
you decide what to do
next- and youll find that
youre in exactly the right
place to be making that
decision! Apart from the
food-and-drink
side of things, Rzgar specializes
in hooking you up with any and all
activities that can be found here in
Gkova. Take your pick and spend
a day trying your hand at any of them; dont
miss Rzgars equipment shop, where
you can stock up on all the top-of-
the-line watersports gear youll need
to start an illustrious career as a
professional fun-haver.
Rzgar Cafe & Bar
Salih St. No. 2
Akyaka
+90 252 243 42 17
info@gokovaruzgar.com
www.gokovaruzgar.com
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Gkova/Akyaka
The tiny town of Gkova, with only about 1500 inhabitants in the off-season, has been growing in
popularity with holiday-goers since the 1970s. These days, it enjoys a modest popularity during the
summer high season, and youll find it busy, though not overrun, in June and July.
Despite being an ancient settlement, Gkova has no ruins of any major significance. Most visitors
come for the natural beauty to be found here, due to the towns location on the scenic Plain of
Heaven, as well as the wide variety of wildlife thriving in the wetlands nearby. Otters, flamingos,
pelicans, and herons are all relatively common, and if youre lucky you might see all of them;
increase your chances of a sighting by coming in the wintertime.
If bird-watching is too low-key for you, consider paragliding from the nearby Akyaka, a sport which
has been growing in recent years.
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Gkova/Akyaka
MULA
This travel company is a particularly good
choice for organizing outdoorsy activities.
They offer an intersting variety of tours:
from getting your adrenaline pumping with
hiking and biking trips to cooking lessons
and daily yoga walks. Caria Pan Travel is
a tour operator established in Outdoor
Tourism, providing year-round
guided tours to many different
locations throughout Turkey
and Greece.
The company also owns a pension,
perfect for those who want to be far away
from the crowded Tourismus beaches, The
pension is Situated at the village Akapnar in
the Gkova Valley. A design mixture of many
Artists gave these place a incredible taste.
Many of our Multi activity tours will be based
here. ts on the routes Carian and dyma and
just 10 minutes away from the Kiteboard base
Gkova.
Caria Pan Travel
Karanfil St. No: 25/1
+90 252 243 53 20
info@cariapan.com
www.cariapantravel.com/en
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Budget travelers rejoice- Akyaka has finally
become the proud owner of its first hostel.
Recently opened under the umbrella of Nova
Aparts, its the first dorm in the area and by
that alone is sure to attract a chill young
crowd looking for a deal in the blue-green
paradise of Akyaka. Six beds are up
for grabs, and the dorm features
a common kitchen as well as free
lockers.
Should you be looking for a longer
stay to catch your breath and get to know
the rhythms of life in town, the apartments
for which Nova
is named will
be right up
your alley. They all come standard with AC,
a mini fridge, a phone, 24 hour hot water,
and a wi-fi connection in your room. Each
apartment has a bathroom, of course, as
well as an American-style kitchen stocked
with basic cooking supplies. Youll be only
70 meters from the Azmak River and beach,
so definitely dont forget your swimsuit and
your sunscreen. Between the sun, sand, and
the pleasure of having an apartment all to
yourself, Nova will start feeling like your
true home away from home before you even
know it.
Nova Apart & Hostel
Sefa St. No:4 - Akyaka
+90 252 243 53 54
info@novaaparts.com
www.novaaparts.com
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Dalyan
Beautiful Dalyan is located in an
environmentally protected area and is home
to many species of wildlife which flourish
in the mixed salt and fresh waters of the
wetlands. Its a bird-watchers paradise, but
theres also a ton for history buffs to sink
their teeth into here. Highlights of the town
include the turtle beach nearby and the
magnificent rock tombs.
Dalyan is the site of the ancient city of
Caunos, which was settled around 200 AD;
a number of the ruins are well-preserved
and can be reached by boat from the town
proper. Look out for the acropolis, the
Byzantine basilica, and the Roman baths
in particular, although the sites here are
numerous and you can lose yourself in the
cobbled streets leading between walls and
temples.
Along the peaceful pathway Love Road in
Dalyan, at the coolest spot with a breeze,
Riverside Cafe (www.cafe.riversidehouses.
net) is waiting for your visit with wide ranged
menu including chilling feasts and drinks.
Even more locally famous, however, is ztuzu
Beach. Home to many loggerhead turtles
who crawl up on the shore every June and
July to lay their eggs, ztuzu is a well-known
tourist destination for wildlife lovers. Of
course, its crucial to avoid disturbing the
turtles; make sure to abide by all posted
signs and warnings, especially between May
and October, when the entire area lies under
environmental protection for the sake of the
loggerheads. The beach lies southwest of the
mouth of the Dalyan ay, the river which
connects the Kyceiz Lake with the sea.
To reach Dalyan, hop on a dolmu from
Fethiye or Marmaris. Alternately, you can fly
into Dalaman Airport, which is roughly 40
minutes away from the town. Taxis and public
transport are both available.
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Dalyan
MULA
In the shade of the mountains and
ringed by orchards of pomegranate,
orange, and lemon, Bahaus Hostel
is a beautiful and sprawling resort
where you can find a note of
harmony near the sea. Bahaus is a
well-known and much-respected
franchise in Turkey, and
travelers throughout the
country know that the
brand stands for safety,
fun, and excitement.
Tons of accommodation
options are available for any style and any
budget. There are single, double, triple,
and quadruple rooms as well as dorms and
camping facilities. The rooms come with
some of the most extensive facilities in
Turkey, including hairdryers, LCD TVs, AC,
mini-fridges, and pool towels. The wi-fi signal
is strong throughout the whole area, and you
can connect from anywhere.
The outdoor facilities are, if anything, even
better. Two pool tables, a swimming pool,
two jacuzzis, a huge bar, ping-pong tables...
youll never be bored staying at Bahaus.
And thats only a partial list- if none of those
options strike your fancy, maybe youd prefer
a game of foosball or backgammon? A bike
trip? Some exercise at the gym? Smoking a
water pipe? Pretty much anything you can
think of is right here.
Of course, the food isnt neglected! Bahaus
uses organic products for most of their
dishes- a ton of ingredients come from the
on-site farm. Breakfast is included in the price
of your room, and you can get lunch and
dinner (as well as snacks) throughout the day.
Bahaus Resort
ztuzu Yolu No. 25 Ortaca
+90 252 284 50 50
bahausdalyan@yahoo.com
www.bahausresort.com

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Dalyan
Kaunos Tours was opened in 1993 as
a rental company for various types of
transportation around the Dalyan area, and
has since expanded to include all kinds of
tours and activities. Of course, you can still
rent cars from Kaunos (as well as bicycles
and motorbikes, if thats more your style),
but dont settle on something too quickly,
because you might be pleasantly surprised
by the sheer vastness of the spectrum of
activities they can help you out with.
Before you make your decision, theres
something you should know about Kaunos,
and thats the fact that theyre a long
way from your typical tour company. The
staff here are hired particularly for their
knowledge of and experience in the region,
and they are carefully trained to be able to
answer any question you may have. They
want you to come away from your experience
with them not only remembering your time
with Kaunos as the best aspect of your stay in
Dalyan, but also with a deeper understanding
of the culture and traditions underlying it
all. The very first detailed map of the Dalyan
area came about as a direct result of Kaunoss
exploratory mountain bike tours in 1995, so
you know theyre good.
Anyway, down to business. All Kaunos tours
come with free transfer from your hostel
or hotel, so no worries about missing the
boat (so to speak). Cruises, trekking, and sea
kayaking are among your options here, and
of course they still specialize in mountain
biking tours if youre feeling the need to get
your adrenaline pumping. Or maybe Jeep
safaris or canyoning are more up your alley?
Kaunos can also arrange airport transfers
for those of you flying into Dalaman Airport.
Transfer directly to their office and then keep
your independence from public transport by
renting a car to explore the area!
Kaunos Tours
Sarsu St. Binlik Pasaj
No. 1/A
+90 252 284 28 16
bookings@kaunostours.com
www.kaunostours.com
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Kyceiz
MULA
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Originally settled in 3400 BC, Kyceiz
has a long and rich history during which,
like most towns in Turkey, it changed
hands numerous times. Nearby historical
sites, including the impressive rock
tombs, represent the influence of many
civilizations.
Kyceiz is a quiet haven, with a much more
traditional feel than the larger cities which
surround it. Check out the market held
every Monday, mainly frequented by locals
although some travelers show up to do some
shopping the old-fashioned way as well.
You should really stay a few nights to
properly appreciate the tranquility of
Kyceiz, and theres no better place to do
it than at Tango Pension. This laid-back little
place has singles, doubles, and triples, all
with their own balconies from which you can
admire great views of the mountains and the
lake. If youd rather socialize while you watch
the sunset, head up to the rooftop balcony
and have a chat with your hosts or your
fellow travelers over a delicious home-cooked
meal in the traditional Turkish style.
Tango offers laundry service, Internet
facilities, and the opportunity to make
international phone calls to your friends back
home. Get to know the place right away as
you enjoy your free coffee or tea as soon as
you walk in the door!
Sami and ahin, the two brothers who jointly
run Tango, are friendly as they come and will
do everything under the sun to make sure
your stay is filled with fun and good vibes.
They know all the best spots in town and can
fix you up with a huge range of activities. You
might be surprised at the things they can
organize for you, actually- everything from
moonlight boat rides to mudbaths, campfire
nights, crabbing, trekking, canyoning,
sojourns to Turtle Beach... the list goes on.
Tango Hostel
Ali hsan Kalmaz Cad.
+90 252 262 25 01
tangopension@tangopension.com
www.tangohostel.com

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MULA
Data
Data is located halfway out on a narrow
peninsula of the same name, which itself
sticks out from the mainland halfway
between zmir and Antalya. The eastern half
of the peninsula is fertile in sections, while
the western end, more mountainous and
sparsely inhabited, may once have been the
site of the ancient settlement of Knidos.
Interestingly, both Data itself and the
numerous smaller villages around it are built
some distance from the water, a practice
stemming from the inhabitants fear of pirate
attacks throughout antiquity and continuing
through the end of the Ottoman Empire.
However, the coast holds significant interest
for visitors in the form of pretty coves and
small bays which can be found along its
length. Travelers should also make a point
of sampling the local cuisine, particularly
a certain dessert made from almonds and
dried figs.
Most travelers arrive via Marmaris, which lies
some 75 kilometers to the east and makes a
convenient transfer point for those coming
by bus.
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Ilca Camping is ideal for anyone keen on
enjoying the summer sunshine which is so
abundant in Data. If youd rather not be
cooped up in a hotel room, why not save
some money and spend your time camping
or RVing instead? Ilca has the best location
around, just on the seafront, and with tons of
facilities set up just so you can get the most
out of it.
Ilca Camping
skele Mah. Talk Plaj
+90 252 712 34 00
ilicacamping@hotmail.com
www.datcailicacamping.com
Open until October 29



Data
MULA
From the same owners of Polka Cafe
who are frequent travelers in this area, a
colorful cafe-restaurant just opened less
then a year ago in Data, exactly with the
purpose of creating a space to relax and
hang out with friends. Breakfasts are highly
recommended: abundant and with fresh
locally grown products. The menu offers also
special bratwurst made in Fethiye, sangria,
homemade ice tea and ice tea and much
more to come. If what was missing in Data
was a cute alternative place to hang out, here
we have it now. In a nice spacious garden,
comfortable couches and few tables are
waiting for you! Polka Data has just opened,
but it is already popular among the locals.
The restaurant offers breakfasts, lunches
and dinners with Turkish, Greek and
Mediterranean specialties. If
you are a big group, you can
call to book, it is also a perfect
place for a special party. The
cafe has all kinds of coffee
(including Irish coffee), home-made cold
drinks and home made snacks!
Polka Data
Ambarac Cad. No: 9
+90 555 731 25 07
facebook.com/PolkaDatca
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MULA
Bodrum
The pretty resort town of Bodrum is located on a peninsula not far from Mula, easily reachable
by bus. It was once the site of the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven
Wonders of the Ancient World; you can see the foundations a short way from the marina.
Bodrum Castle is considered the towns foremost landmark, and has been extraordinarily
preserved. A more unusual stop is the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the best
museum in the region and one of the finest in all of Turkey.
Bodrums fantastic nightlife is definitely a major factor in its continuing tourist appeal, and youll
find bars and clubs open at all hours if you want to join the crowds for drinks and dancing. Try
Kule Bar (Cumhuriyet Cad. Dr Alim Bey Bedesteni No:55) for a terrific rock scene, or if youre
after a high-class night on the town, head to Mandalin Bar (ar Mah. Dr Alim Bey Cad 1025
St. The best beaches are found to the northwest- make your way along the peninsulas northern
coast to Glky, Trkbk, Gndoan, and Yalkayak.
Bodrum has a variety of sleeping options, though many of them tend toward the expensive
side. Some safe choices are Okyanus Otel (+90 252 316 73 15; Atatrk Cad. Eski Adliye St. No:
40) and Hotel Kalender (+90 252 319 33 10; Gumber Mah. Ayaz Cad. No:50).
You might have come to Bodrum for the
party atmosphere and the sandy beaches, but
after a while you may find yourself craving a
bit of a more low-key environment
(maybe after a big night out?).
If you want a break from all
the tourists, theres no better
way to escape the crowds than
a meal at Hanende Restaurant.
Its geared mainly toward locals, so its an
ideal spot to skip out from the bustle of
Bodrums resort feel and get a taste of the
real culture- no pun intended. The fare is
primarily traditional Turkish dishes garnering
high reviews from residents, and all of the
Hanende Restaurant
ar Mah. Talk St.
+90 252 316 06 12
facebook.com/hanende.bodrum
food is made in the Turkish ev yemek- home
food- style.
Whats more, you can plan your day while
youre eating! Hanende has an affiliated tour
boat company which can take you out on
the blue waters of the Mediterranean. Theres
definitely no nicer way to relax than the
combination of great organic food followed
by an outing on the sea!
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85
11. st. No:6 Kadkalesi
Turgutreis-Bodrum
+90 507 631 87 20
hello@puretourism.co.uk
www.alfaapart.com
MULA
Bodrum

Bodrum
MULA
Alfa Apart Location, location, location!
Just 150 metres to the sandy beach and
surrounded by a lush green garden to chill
out in. The apartments are in a little village
called Kadikalesi, which has kept its village
charm and yet is within easy reach of the
busier resorts of Turgutreis, Gumusluk and
Bodrum.
When you enter Alfa Apart you
will be hit by the peaceful feel
of the place, the quirky garden
furniture and the friendliness of the staff.
They have a range of rooms available from
shared dorms to private air-con or non air-
con apartments. Each apartment has its own
private bathroom, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi and
patio or terrace overlooking the garden.
In the garden there are plenty of chairs,
cushions and hammocks, perfect for relaxing,
making friends and outdoor meals. They
also have a selection of games, books and a
great table tennis table for you to play on!
Their partner hotel nearby has kindly agreed
for Alfa Apart guests to have the use of
their swimming pool.There are local shops
selling your everyday essentials and two
local restaurants within 3 minutes walking
distance.
Alfa Apart
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Kemeralt Mh. 66 St. No:11
+90 252 412 77 61
ozcanpansiontonmarmaris@
hotmail.com
Kemeralt Mh. 66 St. No: 9
+90 252 412 16 29
www.maltepepansiyon.com
Atatrk Cad., 66St. No:10
+90 252 413 06 52
barismotel@hotmail.com
www.barismotel.com

MULA
Marmaris
The pretty beachside town of Marmaris is
a seriously happening destination, due to
the simple fact that theres something for
everyone here. Partiers will have a ball in
the techy clubs and smoky bars on the bar
street close to the open market, as Marmaris
is justly known for having a solid nightlife
scene bursting with dancing and drinking
until the early hours of the morning.
Those with a more low-key style, though, will
not go wanting. There are plenty of activities
to keep you occupied during your time in
Marmaris, starting with the popular cruises
which depart from the picturesque, yacht-
lined harbor. Shopping is also great fun, and
youll doubtless come across hundreds of
quirky little shops calling your name, not to
mention the bazaar, where you can stumble
onto convincing knockoffs of every brand
you can think of. To top it off, Marmaris is
home to two waterparks.
The closest international airport is located in
Dalaman, roughly 100 kilometers away. From
there, its easy enough to catch one of the
frequent bus transfers, which take an hour
and a half to reach Marmaris. To get around
in town or for daytrips in the area, you can
rely on the omnipresent dolmues.
zcan Pansiyon Maltepe Pansiyon
Bar Motel &
Pansiyon
Get you travel questions answered at
Check out the details at www.hikeast.com/travel-stories
Send us
your TRAVEL STORIES
and
win a free trip
in T
urkey!
88
Lycian Way
Turkeys southern Mediterranean coast is dotted with
ancient ruins and sleepy seaside towns, many of which
are reachable by the standard methods of dolmu and
bus transport. But for anybody seeking a more personal
and intense encounter with all that the region has to
offer, the 500-odd kilometer Lycian Way presents the
ideal experience for taking it all in.
Stretching from Fethiye to Antalya, the Lycian Way
(Likya Yolu in Turkish) is a winding and mountainous
walking path primarily following the coastline. Kate
Clow, who spearheaded the project to construct the
trail in the late 1990s, intentionally designed the route to hit as many major archaeological
sites as possible. Yet the real allure of the trek is found in the less-known and less-appreciated
elements along the way: chatting with villagers while goats mill around unchecked, listening
to the sounds of nature while gazing down into a lush and untouched valley, coming across a
thousand year old Lycian tomb covered in moss.
If you dont have the time or energy to tackle the entire route, you can pick and choose smaller
sections to walk and pick up the trail from other towns along the way. If you plan to attempt
the full hike, allow a month to 45 days and be sure to pick up Kate Clows original and highly
detailed guide entitled, unsurprisingly, The Lycian Way. The entire path is waymarked with
distinctive red and white markers found on rocks and trees, but at times they can be hard to
spot and you should stay safe by never taking shortcuts or deviating from the path if possible.
Anybody with a penchant for trekking and a love of history should make the Lycian Way (or at
least parts of it!) a priority in a visit to the southern coast. Wandering the trail is the surest way
of feeling instantly miles away from the rush and frenzy of stanbul or Antalya and experiencing
first-hand the slow pace and irresistible allure of rural Turkey.
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LYCIAN WAY
Fethiye
Fethiye & Around
The mid-size town of Fethiye is easy to reach from anywhere in Turkey, with a busy otogar and
frequent connections from the hour-distant Dalaman airport. Whether youre out to hike the
Lycian Way, indulge in some adrenaline-pumping extreme sports, or simply relax on southern
Turkeys sandy beaches, youre likely to pass through Fethiye at some point. The towns streets
are crowded with international visitors, particularly during the high season, but for good reason;
it makes an ideal starting point for visiting local Lycian ruins, soaking up sun, and getting active
in the thriving paragliding or sea canoeing scenes. Go hunting for the sarcophagii which can
be found around in several streets around town and take a day-trip to the cave tombs just
outside of southern Fethiye. And if youre ready to party at the end of a busy day, youll feel right
at home here, where locals and travelers alike meet in pulsing discos and dance until the early
hours of the morning.
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Yanklar Ky, Fethiye
+90 252 633 66 27
info@pastoralvadi.com
www.pastoralvalley.com
Pastoral Valley EcoFarm, several kilometers
outside of Fethiye proper, is definitely not
your typical camping or pension experience.
Devoted to a relaxed, communal, and natural
lifestyle, Pastoral Valley is more of a second
home than the type of accommodation
youre probably used to on the road.
Most people who stay at the
ecofarm live there for an
extended period of time and
typically volunteer their time
to help out with cooking or
other daily chores. Theres plenty
to do on this 42,000 square meter plot of
fertile fields and orchards, but of course
theres plenty of time for relaxation, too! You
can spend your afternoons lounging in one of
the many gazebos around the central kitchen
or splashing in the river which constitutes
one of the borders of the farms land.
As the manifesto of the ecofarm is based
on communal participation and communal
enjoyment of everyones labor, everything
grown or produced on the farm is free- this
includes coffee, tea, oranges and lemons,
and fresh Mediterranean food. Youll see
the environmental focus everywhere at the
ecofarm, including the activities youll find on
offer. Spend your downtime horseback riding
through the stunning valley, participating in
one of the numerous handicrafts workshops
on offer, taking yoga classes, or going on a
nature trek.
Pastoral Valley

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LYCIAN WAY
Fethiye
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1. Karagzler, Fevzi akmak Cad.
No:57 Fethiye
+90 252 612 27 11
info@fethiyeguesthouse.com
www.fethiyeguesthouse.com
The Fethiye Guesthouse is a small guesthouse
with a friendly atmosphere. Its location
is one of the best in town, within a short
few minutes walking distance of the main
shopping, restaurant and entertainment
district, as well as many of the historical sites
and the main harbour.
It is a peaceful little
establishment with 15 rooms,
all of which include a private
bathroom, shower, as well as
air-conditioning. Dorm rooms
are also available. The crew are
very friendly and welcoming, and
the complimentary breakfast is delicious.
Fethiye Guesthouse also provides unique
in-house travel and tour information and will
be pleased to help you organise local tours
around Fethiye and surrounding areas, as well
as travel and accommodation arrangements
around Turkey. The qualified staff will be able
to tailor an itinerary that fits your time and
budget requirements.
Fethiye Guesthouse makes your stay in
Fethiye easy!
Fethiye Guesthouse
Fethiye
LYCIAN WAY
Founded in
2004, Alaturka
was originally
a one-yacht company specialising in gulet
tours from Fethiye to Olympos Gradually,
as their customer base expanded and they
found increasing success as leaders in the
Mediterranean travel industry, they expanded
their company to offer more tours all over
the country.

Nowadays, Alaturka operates these tours in
all kinds of places from Istanbul to Dalyan
to Mount Nemrut. Still, their specialty
down along the coast is their gulet cruises.
You wont find a more fun loving and
knowledgeable team anywhere.
Travel from Fethiye to your next destination,
the ever-popular Olympos or Marmaris, in
style aboard one of the cabin cruises, or even
charter a private yacht. If youre not going
anywhere in particular but still want to get a
taste of sea life along this pristine coastline
that Turkey offers, then hop on board one of
these popular gullet trips. Sure to be a
highlight of your Turkey experience.

Alaturka can organise anything from your
hotel accommodation to your transfers to
your bus tickets. Not to mention Greek Ferry
connections. Check out their websites:
www.alaturkaturkey.com
Alaturka Tours & Cruises
Karagozler Mahallesi,
Fevzi Cakmak Caddesi
Tombak Apart, No: 29/B Fethiye
+90 252 612 54 23
info@ alaturkacruises.com
www.alaturkacruises.com
92
ldeniz
Looking for a little place to unwind? Ready
to put your feet up for a day or two and
chill out? Sugar Beach is where you want
to be. Right on a sunny, sandy beach, the
blue waters of the Mediterranean are your
playground. After youve gone for a morning
swim, sprawl out on a sunbed and keep an
eye out for the resident loggerhead turtles
which can sometimes be spotted on the
shore. If youre in a sporty mood, get your
basketball on or head to the
volleyball court.
If you want to stay overnight,
choose from a bungalow,
a caravan parking spot (for
those of you on a roadtrip), or a tent pitch.
Housekeeping and laundry service are
available so you can lay back and enjoy
yourself- no more worrying about the
stink rising from those dirty socks in your
backpack.
ldeniz (meaning dead sea in Turkish, so-called for the
stillness of the waters at its much-photographed Blue
Lagoon), is a busy tourist town to the southeast of Fethiye
and easily reachable by dolmu. While its neighbors Faralya
and Kabak will be more up your alley if youre looking to
get away from it all, ldeniz is great for paragliding or
sailing over the Mediterranean- or even just stocking up on
supplies before you make your way to rougher territory.
for
bungalows
Sugar Beach also features a great kitchen
and restaurant where you can dine on
Mediterranean cuisine or hit up Happy Hour
(between 3 pm and 7 pm) for some creative
cocktails. If youre after something simpler,
you can just head to the minimart right on-
site and pick up a few supplies you forgot to
buy in ldeniz.
Sugar Beach Club
ldeniz Cad. No. 20
+90 252 617 00 48
info@thesugarbeachclub.com
www.thesugarbeachclub.com
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ldeniz
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ldeniz
LYCIAN WAY
Lykia World
+90 252 617 02 83
info@escape.com.tr
www.escape.com.tr
Looking for an amazing extreme sports
experience in ldeniz? Look no further. The
staff members at Escape Adventures know
and love their profession, and
they make safety their number
one priority.
Its normal to be nervous while
mentally preparing yourself to
go paragliding- floating thousands of feet
above the ground? Yeah, that can be scary.
Not to fear, though. The instructors at Escape
Adventures are selected with the utmost
care and are required to have five years of
experience and 2,000 flight hours under their
belts before signing on. Full insurance for
every passenger is a company policy- that
includes before, during, and after your flight.
So where do you paraglide from? Babada
(Father Mountain in English), which is the
highest altitude for tandem paragliding
Smack in the center of ldeniz, Sky Sports
Paragliding offers a convenient alternative for
your flying experience. Theyll brief you on
everything you need to know pre-trip, and
their knowledgeable instructors can answer
any questions you have about the how or
the what of paragliding. Four flights run
daily, but as with any paragliding company,
definitely dont book it for the last day of
flights... in the world. Escape Adventures
knows that they have a stellar reputation to
uphold, and they work hard to keep their
customers happy. Theyll gladly tailor the
experience to your preferences, and can-
for example- book you in for a morning or
evening flight for better pictures. If youre
here on honeymoon, they can even give you
cake and champagne midflight!
Escape Adventures doesnt only operate
in the air, though. Check out their variety
of water sports, including power boating,
jet skis, water skis, parasailing, and
wakeboarding.
your trip, as its highly
weather-dependent and
you dont want to be left
flightless if its raining!
Escape Adventures
Sky Sports
ar Cad. Tonoz Otel Alt
+90 252 617 05 11
info@skysports-turkey.com
www.skysports-turkey.com
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When you think of ghost towns, you might be picturing empty saloons in the American Wild
West. Kayaky is every bit as dramatic and imposing as anything you can conjure up, and looms
over the modern village below with a haunting grandeur.
Kayaky (previously known as Levissi) was a Greek town until 1923, when a population
exchange between Greece and Turkey sent its inhabitants westward. The Greek Macedonian
Muslims who were settled in their place didnt stay for long; theories abound as to why
(some a bit on the tin-foil-hat side, such as the one suggesting that the previous population
poisoned the towns water supply upon departing), but the most likely explanation is that the
Macedonians were simply unused to such rough land and moved on when they found it difficult
to cultivate.
Years of sitting empty lend the collapsing buildings an air of melancholy poetry, helped along
by the 1957 earthquake which further leveled the town. Now it sits deserted and crumbling...
and a little bit creepy. Travelers with a taste for the bizarre and surprising can spend hours
exploring the site to their hearts content. Make sure to visit the two churches and the village
fountain; also take in the Mediterranean view from the chapel at Kayakys highest point.
The entire area of the town has been declared a museum by the Turkish state. As such, an
entrance fee is charged during peak hours; if you have an open schedule and wish to avoid this,
simply show up in the early morning or the evening and have the place to yourself... for free.
A small modern town has been built at the foot of the hills, packed full of restaurants and
wine houses despite its diminutive size. To reach Kayaky, just hop on a dolmu from
Fethiye or l Deniz. Alternatively,
you can make the 8-kilometer
hike from Fethiye and
arrive on foot.
Kayaky
LYCIAN WAY
Kayaky
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Kayaky
LYCIAN WAY
Kaya Sanat Kamp (in English, Kaya Art Camp)
is an alternative travelers paradise. Just
down the road from unmissable Kayaky,
the Art Camp is a maze of
gazebos, greenery, and
sculptures peeking out from
flower bushes and adorning
fountains.
The camp offers weekly
workshops, and guests generally stay for
at least one of them; as such, its less of a
crash-for-the-night hostel setting and more
of a place to unpack for a bit, settle in, get
to know the artsy owners, and make friends
from all over the world. Check out their
schedule of workshops in advance and find
one which interests you- typical examples
include rhythm drumming, salsa dancing, and
ceramics. The workshops appeal to beginners
as well as advanced craftsmen. Dont worry
if you dont have experience- just bring your
enthusiasm! Theres something for everyone
in a creative state of mind, so have a wander
when you arrive and take a gander at the
theater, the mini climbing wall, and the relics
of past workshops which adorn the many
winding paths through the camp. It would be
difficult not to be inspired at Kaya.
After the morning workshop sessions, you
have time to relax. Hang out with fellow
artisans and travelers or go for a stroll
through town. If youre full of energy, take
advantage of the bikes or the volleyball court
offered by the camp, or head out to one of
the local bars.
Three meals a day are served at the camp,
all made from organic produce. Most of it is
grown on-site, and agriculture enthusiasts
can take a peek out back toward the garden.
If youre arriving on a Sunday, two free
shuttles are provided from Fethiye.
Otherwise, youll find it straightforward to get
on the dolmu and make your own way there.
Get ready for the artistic experience of a
lifetime, shared with like-minded people and
all taking place in one of the most stimulating
settings anywhere!
Kaya Sanat Kamp
+90 533 763 62 73
kayaartcamp@gmail.com
www.sanatkampi.com

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The laid-back and welcoming Village Garden
Pension, close to the main street of modern
Kayaky, is a warm haven for travelers trying
to relax and recover from a hectic time in
Fethiye or ldeniz. Family-owned and
operated, cozy and comfortable are both
keywords here. The homely style and smiley
owners just may make you feel that youre
stepping back in time to a less stressful era
when people would drop by their neighbors
house for a cup of sugar.
Enjoy the spacious rooms and the
simple, well-kept outdoor seating
Stylish Levissi Wine House occupies a
400-year old stone building on the main
corner of modern Kayaky village. It would
be difficult to describe the place without
superlatives- just for one, it boasts the largest
vineyards in southwestern Turkey, and an
absolutely stunning collection of fine wines,
the majority of them local. Dont be in a big
hurry to choose, though; they offer free wine
tasting, so feel free to have a sample or three
before making your final choice.
area (not to mention the magnificent views
ubiquitous in this part of Turkey!) and sip
some ay while you practice your Turkish with
the locals wandering in and out to say hello
to the pensions managers. Theres a blazing
fireplace in the winter, so dont hesitate to
book a stay even in the off season!
The restaurant has a wide
selection of delicious local
food- ask the staff for help
choosing the right wine
for your food, if youre so
inclined. Levissi Wine House is pure class
and a visit here is the perfect way to feel as
though youre returning to civilization after a
long day exploring the ruined city.
Village Garden
Levissi Garden Restaurant & Wine House
Knal Mah. Gemiler Yolu
+90 533 767 28 35
temelkiryaman@hotmail.com
www.villagegardenturkey.com
Kayaky
+90 533 247 59 34
info@levissigarden.com
www.levissigarden.com

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Kayaky
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Kayaky
LYCIAN WAY
Within the impressive atmosphere of
Kayaky, soaked in the green, this camping
site is something very close to paradise . The
place has been constantly renewed in the last
years, and it has reached at the present very
high quality infrastructure. From bungalows
to camping, they are offering different
kind of accommodation, friendly
environment and great facilities.
Rooms in the village house
and all the wooden houses
have en-suite bathrooms
(with shower and bath), air
conditioning. Wooden houses also have small
enjoyable terracces in front. The complex
includes a bar, a huge garden with fruit trees
and a swimming pool right in front of the
historical village. The distinctive point of Han
Camping is attention to details and you will
notice it.
Perfect place to relax, enjoy the nature and
the suggestive atmosphere of Kayaky, at
the same time perfect starting point for all
sorts of excursions in the are. You can choose
to join some of the popular activities such
as the mandatory visit to the village, boat
trips, paragliding, diving, jeep safari, trekking
along the Lycian Way... or you can chill out
at their swimming pool enjoying the view.
In the evening, there is nothing better than
a bonfire and some cold beers in company
of the other guests, far away from the noisy
nightlife of ldeniz.
If you need any other advice about what to
do in Fethiye or where to go next, ask the
owners, they are very helpful and more than
available to suggest you the best way to
enjoy Turkey.
Han Camping
Kayaky
+90 252 618 02 03
han@hancamping.com
www.hancamping.com

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The first thing youll notice about George
House is the stunning view. Right smack at
the top of the path down to Butterfly Valley,
you can gaze down at the sea far below or
dizzy yourself staring up at the stars. Breezes
and, of course, butterflies are in abundance
here, without a mosquito to be found in high
season!
Theres an option for everyone at George
House, and you can choose from bungalows,
tree houses, camping, or larger ensuite
rooms according to your budget and your
preferences. If youve hiked from Fethiye or
ldeniz, staying at George House is almost
Tiny Faralya is just a dot on the map, but nature lovers will find its scenic beauty nothing short
of enchanting. You can hike through the mountains from Ovack some 16 km north or simply
take a dolmu from ldeniz- although the hairpin turns all along the cliffside coastal road may
leave you just as breathless as if youd opted for the trek! Save some energy to navigate the
steep path down to Butterfly Valley, whose namesakes flutter in abundance around the rocks.
The roundtrip takes around 45 minutes, but dont rush- the path can be dangerous, especially
when wet.
a requirement; their delicious (and included
in the price!) breakfasts and dinners are
carb-laden to pump you up for another day
of trekking, or load up your plate with fresh
and tasty vegetables. Theyll do lunch too,
if you just cant get enough- ask for a picnic
lunch to take with you on a trek up the road
or down to the valley, and theyll pack it up
for you. Relax in the common room, strewn
with comfy pillows, or take a good book from
their shelves down to the swimming pool and
follow up a cool-down swim with a chapter
or two.
Airport transfers can be
arranged from Dalaman if
youre in a hurry to get here
and want to skip the hike.
George House
Tel: +90 252 642 11 02
faralya17@hotmail.com
www.georgehousefaralya.com

Faralya
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Faralya
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Kabak
LYCIAN WAY
The dolmu from ldeniz or Fethiye will drop you off in Kabak village, from which point its up
to you to follow the red-and-white Lycian Way markers down into the spectacular valley below.
If you like bonfires, hammocks, flowers, and impossibly blue skies, youll feel right at home
here. Spend your days chilling out with hikers and some of the most laid-back folks to be found
anywhere, and youll soon see why many people who stop by for a night end up still sunning
themselves on Kabaks beach three weeks later. Make sure to walk or swim out to the cave a
short way out from the shore.
Olive Gardens motto is our heart, your
home, and the outgoing managers will make
certain that your stay lives up to these words.
Its built in the village proper at the top of
the hill, so staying at Olive Garden will spare
you the walk down (and more exhaustingly,
up) the steep trails to the valley, and even
better, the views from the top are completely
unbeatable. You can wile away an entire day
watching gulls soaring overhead or allowing
yourself to be mesmerized by the impossibly
blue waters of the sea. Tranquility is a way of
life here.
Olive Garden has a reputation
for providing, bar none, the
best food for miles around.
Their local and professional
chefs passion for cooking is obvious in his
traditional Turkish dishes; Fatihs name is a
byword for deliciousness in these parts. In
fact, Turks as well as travelers come from far
and wide for a taste of his specialties. The
scents of spices and vegetables in the air will
keep your mouth watering all day.
The environmentally-friendly bungalows are
clean and comfortable, sleeping two people
each. Hot water is available all the time, so
wash off the grime with a shower and then
head out to the terrace lounge where you can
take in the panorama at sunset.
If youre arriving from Dalaman, take the
dolmu to Kabak village and youll find signs
directing you toward the (very) brief path to
Olive Garden from the center.
Olive Garden
Tel: +90 252 642 10 83
info@olivegardenkabak.com
www.olivegardenkabak.com
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Kabak
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LYCIAN WAY
Kabak
The fourth camp established in Kabak
and still a favorite with seasonal travelers,
Reflections is a wonderfully laid-back and
relaxed niche in the sunlit and remote-
feeling forest of the valley. Its emphasis on
environmentally-friendly practices will win
over your ecological sympathies in a hurry.
The dedication to green living is more than
skin deep, and Reflections is one of the very
few camps in Kabak which sort their trash for
recycling.
Youll feel like a druid or an
artist in Reflections natural
bungalows and treehouses,
surrounded by crafts lovingly
created by the chilled-out staff
Latcho Camp is located on the headland
of Kabak Valley, lying back on the green
mountains and crossing its legs towards the
turquoise sea. Latcho is a camp respectful to
the unique Kabak Valley, its habitat and spirit.
The camp embraces the stars in
the night with its crystal-clear sky.
As its guests say, it shines out with
super-delicious organic foods and
the unique valley scene. It is just a
stones throw away from the beach and has
a live music stage which welcomes many
musicians and travellers. There are bungalows
and a wide tent area . In the camp area, you
and past generations of travelers. Check out
the amazing fireplace, the mosaics, and the
wood sculptures found in nooks and crannies
all around you.
If youre ready to get your tan on, head to the
beach- its less than a ten-minute walk down
to the cove.
Take the opportunity to solicit local
information from the staff- great English is
spoken here!
can put up with your own tent or one can
be provided for you. The bungalows are
furnished with a double bed, bed net,
cloth-shelf and a carpet. Daily cost per
person also includes breakfast and dinner.
Reflections Camping
Latcho Camp
Uzunyurt Ky, Kabak
+90 252 642 10 20
contact@reflectionscamp.com
www.reflectionscamp.com
Uzunyurt Ky, Kabak
+90 252 652 11 70
camplatcho@gmail.com
www.latchocamp.com

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Xanthos - Letoon
LYCIAN WAY
Letoons sister-site and administrative capital, as
well as Lycias largest city, the ruins at Xanthos
are a must-see. The phrase fiercely independent
gets thrown around a lot with regard to
Mediterranean city-states, but the first-century
BC inhabitants of Xanthos take the cake. Several
centuries after a near-suicidal attempt to hold off
Persian forces, its inhabitants went a step further
and actually committed mass suicide rather than
see their city taken by the invading Romans.
Today, Xanthos is a sprawling site boasting pillar
tombs, basilicas, stone buildings, and ancient
roads aplenty, and a French team of excavators is
still hard at work unearthing more. An entrance
fee is charged for a stroll around the sites
principal ruins, but you can explore the current
excavation area for free. Xanthos can be reached
via the well-signposted road from nearby Knk.
Letoon, a joint UNESCO World Heritage Site with Xanthos, is perhaps the most romantic of the
surviving Lycian sites. Temples devoted to the three most central deities in the Lycian religion
(Leto, from whom the complex owes its name, and her children Apollo and Artemis), rise eerily
from green and often flooded fields, deserted for 1400 years. Yet cult goddess-worship is just
one side to Letoons significance. Also discovered at the site was the Trilingual Stele, akin to
the Rosetta Stone, which contributed to the decipherment of the Lycian language. Letoon lies
approximately 5 km from the village of Knk and can easily be reached on an afternoon jaunt
from Fethiye or Ka. Detailed maps of the area are sold at the ticket booth, and may be worth
picking up if you plan to visit more out-of-the-way ruins.
Xanthos
Letoon
102
Most travelers visiting Leton and Xanthos
move on to Ka to crash for the night, but
if youre keen to be one of the few staying
put a bit farther from the crowds, stop by
zlen Pension in small and highly authentic
village of Karadere. The family-run restaurant
features organic food, much of
which is grown on-site (ask for a
quick tour of their impressive
tomato and cucumber
greenhouses!). Take a walk to
the beach for a splash or just
Pnara holds the intriguing distinction
of being one of the least-visited yet most
impressive archaeological sites along
Turkeys southern coast. Six kilometers
from the main road, two of which snake
precariously up a dirt track from the
village of Minare, youll find yourself
facing an immense cliffside punctuated by
honeycomb tombs cut into the rock and
a well-preserved amphitheater ringed by
wildflowers. Visitors are free to wander as
they wish and discover for themselves the numerous graves and temples scattered between the
mountain and the valley. The sheer scope of the site is a clue to its historical importance; Pnara
was one of the six largest Lycian cities until it was deserted in the 9th century AD. Bring your
camera for some spectacular panoramas taking in the architecture and the view!
hang out and practice your Turkish next to
the river. Situated right off the Lycian Way,
zlen is also a calm and friendly place for
hikers to kick back for a bit and recover some
steam; camp for free if youve brought your
own tent.
zlen Restaurant & Pension
Pnara
Karadere
Bkceyiz Mah.
+90 252 677 76 35
www.ozlenpansiyon.com

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Patara
LYCIAN WAY
Akay Pension is erupting with color-
everything from the furnishings to the
flowers adoring the terrace and dining area
will make you feel like youve stepped into a
bright dream world.
Twelve rooms are available,
each of which features
a balcony and a private
bathroom. The facilities are
all cozy and tidy, but the real highlight of
the place is the friendly family who owns
and runs it. Aye is in charge of the cooking,
and can prepare all kinds of tasty Turkish
cuisine to your personal preferences. Even
better, breakfast is available all day long,
Visitors to Patara are usually after two things: ruins and
beaches. Dont be put off by its small size, because Patara
has both in abundance. Another of ancient Lycias six
largest cities, along with Xanthos and Pnara, it was the
civilizations primary sea port; this strategic importance
led to its early annexation by Roman forces. In slightly
more recent history, Patara gained recognition for being
the birthplace of Nicholas of Myra (better known as Santa
Claus) around 300 AD, although the man in red spent most
of his life in nearby Demre. Take a look at the ancient theater and temple just outside the city,
and then go for a stroll on the beach- unless youre bursting with energy, though, dont try to
make it all the way to the end. At 18 uninterrupted kilometers, this is one of the longest beaches
in the world!
a rarity in Turkey! That combined with the
tea, apple tea, and coffee which are all free
from morning to night will keep you planted
on the terrace for long hours, sipping and
snacking to your hearts content.
If youre up for a bit of partying and want
to head out to check out the local nightlife,
dont worry: reception is 24 hours and theres
no lockout here.
Akay Pension
Patara
Merkez Patara
+90 242 843 50 55
info@pataraakaypension.com
www.pataraakaypension.com

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The mid-sized town of Ka makes a perfect base for travelers looking to explore the treasures
of Mediterranean Turkey without succumbing to the tourist frenzy of the larger cities closer to
the regions airports. Its surging with character and everything from budget options to luxury
shopping are on offer here. In particular, try Chez Evy (Terzi St. No:4) for some mouthwatering
French cuisine in an upscale setting. Most everything is within walking distance, so take an
afternoon or- why not?- a full week and investigate the shops and the seaside on foot. If youre
looking for some authentic Turkish souvenirs such as jewelry or handmade carpets, Ka is
definitely the right place to be.
The gregarious and helpful owners of Ate
Pension, located on a picturesque little back
street, are always ready to help you practice
your Turkish or give you directions around
the city. The upstairs reception and common
area is stocked with absolutely
everything you could ask for in
a hostel. One of the biggest
book exchanges this side of
Antalya offers novels, travel
guides, and references books
in a variety of languages, and the
comfortable raised couch/chill-out spot has
numerous nargiles (water pipes) at your
disposal if youre in the mood to partake in
this most Turkish of smoking traditions.
Ate Pension has a great restaurant on the
terrace and long tables where you can chat
with your new and old friends- and youll get
a free drink on arrival to make you feel right
at home starting the minute you walk in the
front door. Theyve got alcohol at the bar as
well if you need a little something extra to
help you relax and unwind.
Ate Pension is just minutes from the beach
and a short stroll from the bustling center of
town. The bus station isnt much farther, but
you can call ahead and theyll come pick you
up if youve got heavy bags and would prefer
not to make the walk.
Ate Pansiyon
Yeni Camii Cad. No. 3
+90 242 836 13 93
atespension@gmail.com
www.atespension.com

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Ka
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Ka
LYCIAN WAY
Kuytu Ke (name stands for sheltered
corner) is a hidden gem in the very center
of Ka. Definetely one of the friendliest
places in Ka which specializes in welcoming
guests with a big smile. Having the same
owners of Kuytu cafe (on the opposite
corner), staff is helpful in any kind
of questions. Newly renovated old
house offers comfortable and cozy
accomodations with specious design
rooms. You can also have
your breakfast(strongly
suggested) on the terrace
with the complete view of
the town.
Kuytu Ke Pension
Merkez Mahallesi.
lkokul St. No:1
+90 533 661 31 54
facebook.com/kuytukosepansiyon
Perfect for hikers and budget travelers, Ka
Camping occupies a perfect location on
the seafront, ideal for watching the sunset
over the water or taking advantage of the
many water sports arranged here. Pretty
little bungalows are scattered throughout
the gardens which decorate
the camp, or you can choose
to pitch a tent if camping is
more your style. Furthermore,
RV parking areas are available
for those of you with your own
transportation.
Water and electricity are available throughout
the camp. Check out the bar and restaurant
right by the water and dont forget to inquire
about sundiving, Ka Campings own style
of diving!
Ka Camping
Hastane Cad. No. 3
+90 242 836 10 50
info@kascamping.com
www.kascamping.com
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Have you just passed by a colorful cafe full of
flowers and plants? Then we suggest you to
stop and go back! You are in Kuytu Cafe Bar,
the right place to enjoy some homemade
food or a drink. This place, very well
decorated, relaxed, shadowed,
green, offers breakfasts, lunches
and dinner. The menu is suitable
for every taste: pastas, salads,
Turkish food, snacks and all sorts
of beverages. Occasional acoustic concerts
are held in its cozy atmosphere. Try kuytu ay
and enjoy the music...
Kuytu Cafe Bar
Merkez Mah.
lkokul St. No: 1
+90 242 836 24 88
facebook.com/KuytuCafeBar
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az is a pretty little fishing village close to Ka and can be reached by dolmu or on one of
the numerous boat tours offered from more popular destinations around the area. The name
means three mouths in Turkish, referring to the trio of rivers which flow into the sea here.
The Turkish government declared the town and surrounding region a protected area in early
1990. At the time, az was little-visited and even smaller than it was today, lacking even
a passable road. While now, just over 20 years later, the road is definitely navigable by public
transportation or in your own rented car, its still a 19-kilometer precariously snaking passage
and you may be tempted to arrive the old-fashioned way: by boat. The government has since
relaxed the restrictions placed on diving and building in the area, but some limitations remain
and the town has fortunately not lost its quaint charm.
Seafood lovers will want to unpack their things and settle down in az. As a fishing town,
there are all the toothsome Mediterranean dishes you could hope for here and numerous fish
restaurants near the port. One local favorite, Hassan Restaurant, is run by (who else?) Hassan
himself, who speaks English and German. Frequented by sailors, this character-rich eatery
features momentos left behind by previous travelers and serves up all kinds of seafood as well
as a selection of grills. Keep an eye out for Hassans smiling face on posters around town!
A stroll around the hilly but kaleidoscopic town
center will reveal several Lycian tombs nestled
in between the ubiquitous old stone houses.
Cross your fingers that the current building
restrictions will continue for at least
several years to come... in
the meantime, hurry
here while the
small-town
vibe in
az
remains!
LYCIAN WAY
Kekova / az
107
LYCIAN WAY
Kekova / az
Most visitors to Kekova and az come with the primary goal of checking out the spectacular
sunken city of Simena. Once a thriving Lycian city composed of an island and a mainland area
(now known as Kaleky, castle village), an earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused a large
section of the residential area to slide underwater. Now, 19 centuries later, it remains partly
submerged and can be explored from the surface or underwater; thanks to special protection
from the Turkish government since 1990, it remains exceedingly well-preserved and has not
been much damaged by the tourism boom of the last several decades.
The above-water ruins are no less fascinating and include a necropolis and numerous
sarcophagi, as well as Kalekys namesake castle built by the Knights of Rhodes on the ancient
foundations, but if youve made the trip out here its probably the underwater part youre
mainly looking to see. Check out the bizarre spectacle of staircases leading into the sea and
windows half above, half below the waves.
This charming pension in central az is
one of the few places to drop your bags in
town if youre planning to stay the night here.
Covered in flowers and climbing vines, the
two-story building in which youll be staying
sometimes seems like its frequented more by
locals than by international travelers. Indeed,
theres a homey feel here, and a stay at Likya
Pension will have you imagining that youve
lived in town all your life.
Its nearly a one-stop shop for everything you
might be after. The carpet shop next door
is affiliated with the pension, so stop by if
you want to pick up some textiles. Inquire
about the free boat trip youre entitled to for
staying in Likya as well! After feeling the sea
breezes in your hair
and peering down into
the blue waters of the
Mediterranean for an
afternoon, you may
just decide to extend
your stay.
Likya Pension
az Ky
+90 242 874 20 90
gokkaya07@mynet.net
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Simena
Simena
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Although he was born in the nearby village of Patara, Demre is where Santa Claus spent most
of his life. Of course, the historical figure hadnt yet taken on his modern form as a bearded,
present-delivering man dressed all in red and white, but the legend of Saint Nicholas is still very
much present in the town today. Youll find the very cool 11-century Church of Saint Nicholas
here, which used to house his bones, although they were carried off by thieves on the hunt for
holy remains.
Famous as he may be, Demre isnt all about the local saint. Crowning the hill about the town is
an imposing ruin, Andriake, only recently discovered in 2009 and currently under excavation by
students from Akdeniz (Mediterranean) University.
The main building to be seen is a Roman synagogue dating back to about 500 AD, identified as
such by the Latin inscriptions as well as a marble slab depicting a menorah and other symbols
of Judaism. Besides that, the view is fantastic, particularly at dusk when you can watch the
sun sinking over the port to the west. Wildflowers grow in abundance. Youll most likely have
the place to yourself, especially in early morning or late afternoon, as Andriake is not yet well-
known in guidebooks. Now is your chance to be one of the first visitors!
The road to the site is poorly signposted, so you may have to ask around for directions; as a
starting point, head toward the harbor from the center of town and look out for a left-hand turn
taking you up the mountains. If you have your own transportation, you can park in an open
gravel lot just before the yellow sign announcing the path to the ruins.
Demre
Andriake
LYCIAN WAY
Demre / Andriake
109
Andriake Camping is perfect for travelers
keen to be among the first to check out the
Roman ruins visible up on the cliffside or
for Lycian Way hikers searching for a spot to
sling down their backpacks and sprawl out
for a while.
Run for most of the year by
an animated and outgoing
friendly people, youll find
yourself deep in conversation
before youve even sat down
for a steaming cup of tea at the cafe picnic
table. The managers are always ready to help
you out with anything you need (such as
directions to the elusive ruins!), and they can
set you up with local activities including boat
tours to Kekova, fishing, sea kayaking, and
guided walking on the nearby Lycian Way,
among a plethora of other options.
You can choose your preferred style of rustic
accommodation here; take your pick of a
parking spot for your mobile home, a place to
pitch your own tent, or large and dorm-like,
jazzy, gypsy-style yurts provided by the camp.
Wireless internet is provided, alongside other
helpful services such as laundry, electricity
plugs to keep you wired in, board games, and
a great book exchange in several languages.
They can pick you up from Demre, Myra, or
Zeytin if youd prefer not to find your own
way to the camps metaphorical doorstep:
youll arrive in style and all set to enjoy the
upbeat music coming from the restaurants
speakers, along with a nap or a stroll along
the harbor. And dont worry, you wont go
hungry. You can get breakfast here in the
mornings, a traditional Turkish spread made
from all local ingredients; a barbecue dinner
is prepared every evening with a varied and
delicious selection of meat and vegetables.
Andriake Camping & Cafe
Andriake Harbor
+90 242 871 31 30
baris@andiake.com
www.andriake.com
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Olympos
You probably recognize the name Olympos
from your school-days classes in Greek
and Roman mythology: the home of the
gods, it boasts a number of incredible
ruins, as you may well expect. You wont be
disappointed by multifarious ancient sites
to be found here, although those in search
of solitude should take heed. Olympos is
major stop on southern Turkeys beaten
tourist track, and you may be put off by
the crowds, especially in the peak summer
months from June to August.
Also see the Chimaera, named for the mythical fire-spitting monster (part-lion, part-goat,
part-snake) of Roman folklore. Today the term refers to the eternal flames which burn from the
mountain-side above Olympos. Youll be amazed by the unique natural phenomenon of the
fires- caused by methane gas leaking out from the earth, they will reignite themselves if you
attempt to put one out. Dont forget to bring a flashlight with you on the walk up- youll want to
go at night for maximum effect, and some of the trails can be treacherous in the dark.
As the town of Olympos is under government protection which severely limits modern
construction, facilities are limited. Fortunately, the owners of the many pensions here recognize
this and will cater for most of your needs, including food and alcohol. Theres an ATM and a
small supermarket, but plan ahead by bringing the majority of the supplies youll need from Ka
or Antalya.
Take a bus from Antalya (some 70 kilometers to the north) or south from Kumluca or Ka. The
larger buses wont take you all the way down to Olympos proper and will instead leave you
roughly 10 kilometers outside of town at a junction featuring a great view and a cafe. Dolmues
from this point are frequent, so you shouldnt have any trouble completing the trip into the
valley.
LYCIAN WAY
Olympos
111


Olympos
+90 242 892 12 50
info@kadirstreethouses.com
www.kadirstreehouses.com
This place really makes you feel as if you
are lost in nowheres land. Only difference
from the island of Robinson Crusoe is that
your company might be quite numerous.
The ground of the camp can host up to 300
people at the same time! The perfect place if
you are looking for travel mates for the rest
of your trip.
Have you ever stayed in a tree house? Well,
we suggest you to try it at this place. On
pine trees, they accommodate from 1 up
to 5 people each. Dont expect an en-suite
toilet up there. If you are looking for more
comfort, you can still opt for the bungalows
(with or without air-conditioning) or dorms.
Obviously you can also set up your own tent.
This place has expanded quite surprisingly
during six years and they now have 100
bungalows, 15 cabins, 10 dorms and camping
ground. Breakfast and dinner is included in
the price of night stay. The breakfast is served
in five different options while dinner consists
of a buffet with five-six different dishes. Kadir
is mainly vegetarian or with chicken and red
meat is served only two times in a week.
In Kadir youll find three bars with plenty of
ares to relax and places to organize bonfires
outside, a seafood restaurant and other
facilities (laundry, volley ball, tennis tables).
You can also rent a scooter or a bike or
arrange with the travel agency activities such
as scuba diving, rock climbing, bike tours, sea
kayaking, hiking, cable car tour, boat trips
and many others.
Kadirs Tree Houses
Olympos
LYCIAN WAY
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Leisure is a way of life at this chilled-out to
the max dive. In Olympos, Bayrams has
pretty much become a synonym for... well,
everything from fun to relaxation to
partying. Youre sure to find hordes of like-
minded travelers congregating here for a chat
or a beer, and everyone from the outgoing
international bar staff to visitors from other
camps drawn by the bouncy music will be
sprawled out on the pillow-strewn platforms
or trading travel stories across the courtyards
many picnic tables until the early hours of the
morning. The motto in camp is come for a
day, stay for a week... and despite your best-
laid plans, you probably will.
Dorms and private bungalows with ensuite
bathrooms are both offered here- included
in the price are both dinner and a massive
buffet breakfast every morning to help you
get some caffeine and carbs in your system
to recover from last night. Chill in a hammock
while you eat and then challenge someone
to a game of that old Turkish favorite,
backgammon. Or maybe nargile is more your
style; Bayrams will supply you with a water
pipe so you can relax and puff away all day
long in the orange grove.
Bayrams isnt just about lazing around in
the sun with a cold Efes, though. They do
trips to the eternal flame every night and
can hook you up with some even more
adventurous activities like rock jumping and
kayaking if youre so inclined. Theres also an
in-house travel agency to help you plan your
next stop; they do cruises as well, so if you
want to get up close and personal with the
Mediterranean, take a look.
Also offered are a laundry service, a book
exchange, safe-deposit boxes to store your
valuables, and international phone calls.
Bayrams Tree House
+90 242 892 12 43
olympos@bayrams.com
www.bayrams.com

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Olympos
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Olympos
LYCIAN WAY
Sheriff (sometimes seen as
the Turkish transliteration,
erif ) is a little piece of heaven
nestled in the valley, with a
laid-back vibe competing with
what feels like an everpresent
party waiting to burst through. Youll sleep
in a charming bungalow between groves
of orange and pomegranate trees, feeling
like a figure from some mythical story- until
you stroll out to to the outdoor common
area ringed with greenery and full of other
travelers, and then youll just want to put
your party hat on and make some new
buddies.
Each of the forty bungalows has a shower,
bathroom, and the extremely important air
conditioning to keep you cool in the hot
summer months; if youre on a budget, spring
for one of the seven slightly more rustic
rooms without ensuite facilities.
It wont take you long to realize how
passionate the staff at erif is about the
magic of Olympos. Theyd be more than
happy to sit down with you and tell you
about the region (particularly the Chimaera
and the Lycian Way), or even just to share
stories about the more than twenty years
theyve been operating. At night, things
heat up around the bar with world music in
the summer and the pleasant hum of Efes-
fueled conversation. When you look up at
the stars and listen to the rhythmic beat of
international bands, youll want nothing more
than to stay here forever.
Discounts are available for children under
the age of 12, and there are frequent outings
after seven pm.
Sheriff Pension
Olympos
+90 242 892 13 01
info@olympos.biz
www.olympospansiyon.com

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Plenty of people come to Olympos with partying
on the mind, as the place s reputation most
definitely precedes it.
If youre among their number, its hard to top the
fun, hip Eski Yeni (meaning Old New in Turkish).
Its closed in the winter months, but in summer,
theres pretty much a nonstop party happening
here, with live concerts featuring the hottest
alternative bands. But wait, it gets better- theres
no entrance fee, ever. Just grab some friends, get
a drink, and enjoy the music in the garden.One
of the first things youll notice about Olympos is
that its a sprawling place. Fortunately, the owners
of Eski Yeni have planned ahead for this, and now
offer shuttles from the various pensions.
Eski Yeni
Kiliseyakas No:116
Olympos/Kumluca
+90 242 892 13 42
info@eskiyeni.com.tr
www.eskiyeni.com.tr
Kiliseyakas No:116
Olympos/Kumluca
+90 242 892 13 42
info@eskiyeni.com.tr info@eskiyeni.com.tr
www.eskiyeni.com.tr
If youre among their number, its hard to top the
fun, hip Eski Yeni (meaning Old New in Turkish).
Its closed in the winter months, but in summer,
theres pretty much a nonstop party happening
here, with live concerts featuring the hottest
alternative bands. But wait, it gets better- theres
Plenty of people come to Olympos with partying Plenty of people come to Olympos with partying
LYCIAN WAY
Olympos
Eski Yeni is a bit far from the sprawling crowd
of Olymposs center, though mostly prefered by
nature lovers. the facility has spread over 4 acres
of land in which there are more then 700 trees.
This quite, peaceful and friendly pension also has
a swimming pool, playground for
kids, parking area and a restaurant.
Many types of accomodation
options (adobe houses, wooden
houses and big tents) all include
bathrooms, breakfast and dinner.
Although its relaxing and quite atmosphere,
pension is just next door to Eski Yeni Bar, where
you can find one of the craziest dancing night with
live music.
Eski Yeni Holiday Houses
Kiliseyakas No:116
Olympos/Kumluca
+90 242 892 13 41
info@eskiyenitatilevi.com
www.eskiyenitatilevi.com
It never takes anyone long to get into the chilled-
out yet party-friendly and nature-oriented vibe
omnipresent in Olympos; Cafe Cactus embraces all
three aspects of this unique place to their fullest
extent. Its one of the few places here you can
pitch your own tent- they have raised wooden
platforms for the purpose so you wont run the
risk of getting wet. Breakfast and a
tasty, massive dinner are included
in the price.
The main attraction of Cafe
Cactus, though, is the live music,
primarily reggae, funk, and pop. All it will take
for you to kick off your shoes and rearrange your
itinerary so you can stay here longer is one night
sitting under the lemon trees, rocking out to the
beats, and sipping an ice-cold beer from the bar.
Try it for yourself!
Cafe Cactus and Camping
Yazr Ky Olympos Mevkii
+90 242 892 19 55
cactus@olymposcactus.com
www.olymposcactus.com
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Kumluca / Adrasan
LYCIAN WAY
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Free
welcomedrink

Kumluca / Adrasan
The Street Cafe occupies a fantastic location
on the north end of Adrasan Bay, great for
watching the sun set and the moon rise. This
is absolutely the place to be for enjoying lifes
simple pleasures- sun, sand, and sea. The
welcoming managers (Ramazan, Birgit, and
their son Timur) speak English, Turkish, and
German.
Book a bungalow here if you
fancy a longer stay- you can get
a small one designed for 2-4 people, or a
larger one which sleeps up to eight if youre
traveling in a group. Escape the heat in
your air-conditioned room before heading
outside again in the cool of twilight! Being
a family-oriented type of place, the Street
Cafe and Pension offers all kinds of facilities
you wont find elsewhere and should be your
first choice if you have young ones with you.
Everything from baby monitors to cribs can
be had- all you have to do is ask.
You can tell by the name that this is one place
which takes its food seriously. Restaurant by
day and bar by night, youll discover all sorts
of local dishes and drinks here. Take care to
try the cheesecake and cappucinos, both
house specialties.
Ask about the nearby vegetable and spice
market which takes place on Sundays!
Street Cafe & Pension
Deniz Mah. Deniz Cad.
+90 242 883 13 54
contact@streetcafe-adrasan.de
www.streetcafe-adrasan.de
12 kilometers beyond the wealthy town of Kumluca, youll come to the a pretty bay- this
is Adrasan, a perfect place to stop for the afternoon and take in the view from the beach.
Development is quite slow here due to the government protection over the entire park region,
but it is proceeding despite the regulations and you can find a number of modern buildings
catering to the traveler crowd here.
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Jungle Bells Hostel, open all year long, has
an alternative aura and unique position, with
natures great green and seas perfect blue
seen behind the beach way (only 7 minutes
away). The hostel gives services as guidance
for activities and trip, free wi-fi connection
in community areas, transfer to Airport, Bus
station and nearest town centers, free private
beach, sun beds and umbrellas, free laundry
service. Pets are also welcome to the camp.
Here you can choose among several
accommodations options: tree houses,
bungalows, dorms or tent and caravan sites.
Breakfast and dinner are included in the price
for those staying in the houses, bungalows
and dorms. For any other needs, Jungle Bar
is open for snacks and drinks (both alcoholic
and non).
The offer of activities is really stunning.
Among the pre-organized ones, tours to
Adrasan, Olympos, Kekova and the Sunken
City. You can also join the trips to the eternal
flames (fires produced by the gas boiling up
from the mountain, which has been burning
for over 100 years), fishing trip, canyoning
tours (not available in winter) or club
crawling! The options are many, just follow
your mood! If you are in a big
group you can also create your
own itinerary for a full day of
adventures.
Staff is extremely friendly and
helpful, in case you need advices or
assistance during your stay.
Jungle Bells
Adrasan beach
+90 242 883 14 24
info@junglebells.com
www.junglebellshostel.com
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Kumluca / Adrasan
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Kaleii
ANTALYA
Kaleii / Antalya
The 2200 year old city of Antalya, founded by the Greeks and originally known as Attalia, is
nowadays one of the largest ports on Turkeys southern coast. Many travelers to the region
either start or end their Mediterranean explorations here, and it has become hugely important
on Turkeys tourism scene; millions of people visit every year. Grab a map and check out the
Aspendos Theater, still standing from Roman times, as well as the impressive archaeology
museum, the best in the area.
Dont miss Kaleii (which roughly translates to inside the castle). Passing through the
historical Hadrians Gate, you can go for a leisurely stroll down cobbled streets taking you past
ancient buildings and ruins; the area is under government protection, and efforts are being
taken to preserve the classical elements present in Antalyas old district. Kaleii may remind
you of western Europes old towns, with its narrow alleys and imposing stone walls. If you are
looking for some fun nights, check-out Simurg Cafe&Bar (Tabakhane st. no:7) or for more live
events Simurg Temple (Hamam St. no:2).
Sabah Pension is the first family-owned
guesthouse in the whole of the old city,
so they have both the experience and the
welcoming vibe to make you feel right at
home. Nearly 25 years old, Sabah has had
plenty of time to get everything in order- and
they have, as evidenced by the hordes of
guidebooks and travelers who recommend
this place with outspoken enthusiasm. Its
more than just a hostel- its a meeting point
for backpackers of all nationalities.
With small dorms, a breezy
garden, a restaurant and bar,
and a swimming pool, youll
find everything you need here.
Of course, the owners are ready to help you
organize tours, airport transfers, and activities
if you like. The pension is highly English-
friendly, with fluent staff and daily English
newspapers available for your perusal if you
want to keep up with the news from home
(for more personal updates, take advantage
of the wi-fi).
Sabah Pansiyon
Kaleii Klnaslan Mh.
Hesapc St. No. 60
+90 242 247 53 45
sabahpansiyon@yahoo.com
www.sabahpansiyon.com
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MERSN
Kzkalesi
Once an ancient Anatolian city known as Corycus
(sometimes spelled Korykos), Kzkalesi is a
somewhat foreboding, though undoubtedly
beautiful, castle sitting on a tiny island close to
shore. The name, which means Maidens Castle
in English, refers to a legend in which a girl
was cursed by an evil magician and sent by her
father to live in this isolated castle in a desperate
attempt to prevent the enchantment from coming true. It turns out, however, that the island
on which it sits used to be connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, so- gasp- the
legend probably had no basis in fact.
A group of nearby caves are well worth checking out- known as
the Heaven and Hell, these interconnected passages go more
than 20 meters underground. Stop for a visit at the little church
built by Saint Paulus in antiquity.
30 kilometers north of Silifke lies another unmissable
destination. Uzuncaburc, as it is now known, consists of an
expanse of breathtaking ruins, remarkably well-preserved.
The height of the citys prominence lasted from Roman
times through the Byzantine era, and you can see remnants
of both in the theater, grave markers, and temple devoted
to Zeus.
The Adam Rocks, located in Devil Valley (roughly 8
kilometers distant from Kzkalesi), probably date back to the
Roman era. The carved figures display men, women, and
children in a visibly antiquated style.
Getting to Kzkalesi is generally a breeze, with frequent
dolmues running from Silifke and the more distant Mersin
(60 kilometers away).



MERSN
Kzkalesi
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Kzkalesi
MERSN
Rain Hotel is a top pick for accommodation
in Kzkalesi. Opened in 1997, they have 18
rooms with a total of 40 beds, each featuring
stylish wooden architecture and a clean,
airy ambience. Telephones, showers, and
wi-fi come standard, as well as the slightly
more unusual feature of orthopedic beds,
a travelers best friend. Rain is open year
round and has split air conditioning so you
can crank up the AC in the summer and
blast some heat in the winter; theres even a
fireplace where you can toast your hands.
The service is definitely a cut above most
budget accommodation here- the rooms are
cleaned daily, and you can get room service
24 hours a day, including alcoholic drinks. You
can arrange to have your laundry done, and
the front desk can hold onto valuable items
to give you some peace of mind.
Every travelers hub needs
a quiet place to sit and plan
out your next move. Rains
comes in the form of a pleasant
cafe on a parallel street serving
hot beverages and local dishes, great for
satisfying your appetite and working out your
where-to at the same time. If you prefer not
to figure it all out alone, head next door to
Oztops Rain Travel Agency, including outings
to the caves, Uzuncaburc, the Adam Rocks,
and more. In addition
to all the great daytrips in the area, they offer
services such as transfers, flight reservations,
and hotel bookings. They also offer a 10%
discount to travelers who show up with a
copy of Hike East. You can find their website
at www.oztoprain.com.
Rain Hotel
33790 Kzkalesi - Mersin
+90 324 523 27 82
rain.hotel@hotmail.com
www.rainhotel.com
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Ankara
Turkeys capital city since the
early 1920s, Ankara is also
the countrys second
largest metropolis
after stanbul. You
may have been told
to steer clear and
spend your travel
time elsewhere,
but dont be misled;
Ankaras reputation for
being boring is greatly
overstated and both party-
goers and cultural history
buffs will find plenty to occupy
them. On top of that, its an attractive
city; many of the shops and restaurants
in central Ulus are built in reconstructed
buildings from time gone by. Youll find
leather, spices, and other goods for sale in its
winding alleys.
The Atatrk memorial, Antkabir, features
huge collections of memorabilia belonging
to Turkeys most celebrated leader and is
well worth a visit even if you arent typically
a museum enthusiast. Take in his extensive
sword collection, his impressive library,
several of his cars, and even his favorite dog
(taxidermied, of course).
You can easily spend a day or three visiting
Ankaras many museums, from the METU
Science and Technology
Museum to the Museum of
Anatolian Civilizations. If
monumental architecture
is more your thing, head
up to Ulus and explore
the twisting alleys of
Ankaras hilltop castle,
filled with small shops
and surprises.
If youre in search of a
good cafe or a stiffer drink,
youll want to head to the central
district of Kzlay. Bars and teahouses
abound here, and many locations
transform into booming clubs after dark. In
particular, check out Nefes Bar located at
Yeniehir Postanesi Kars (+90 312 433 02
80), a spacious spot with a restaurant and live
music nearly every night.
Being central in terms of both geographical
location and political importance, Ankara
is easy to reach from anywhere in the
country and makes a great hub for further
explorations of Turkey and beyond. Arriving
by air, youll come in 28 kilometers northwest
of the city proper. If buses are more your
style, youll find yourself at the terminal
locally known as AT, connected to the
central districts by a metro line.
121 Ankara
Ata 2 St. No:46 - Kzlay
+90 312 213 63 38
info@deepshostelankara.com
www.deepshostelankara.com
Mithatpaa Cad. Tp Geit Yan
No: 25/A
(Yeniehir Postanesi Kars)
Kzlay
+90 312 433 02 80
www.nefesbar.com
Smack in the middle of Ankara and only
five minutes from the city center and right
next to Kolej Metro Station, Deeps is the
citys first backpacker-style hostel. The walls
are brightly-painted and the atmosphere is
welcoming, the whole place geared towards
budget travelers and world-wandering
students. Youre sure to be among
friends at Deeps.
They have private rooms for up
to four people, all with shared
bathrooms, or you can opt for a bed in one
of the six or eight-person mixed dormitories.
Theres a pretty garden, a lounge area, and a
common kitchen well-stocked with utensils
Nefes is a popular venue with young people,
not only at night but also any time hunger
strikes. With an outside patio attached to the
well-known restaurant, youll fnd Nefes Bar
buzzing with activity any time you happen to
stop by. The grills are particularly excellent and
the free roka salads which come with them are
no less delicious. Try one of their interesting
ice-cream mix, with liquors and fresh fruit.
At night, the alcohol comes out and locals
throng to the Nefes Bar performance hall,
hosting all sorts of fun shows including local
Deeps Hostel
Nefes Bar
and appliances. If you stay longer than five
days, you can use the laundry facilities for
free!
Being a city hostel, dont expect to have
silent nights. The traffic noise is part of the
city life!
rock bands, alternative music, and cover bands.
You can check out the schedule of events (as
well as a menu) online to choose what best fts
your taste: reggae, blues, rock&roll, Latin, Greek,
Balkan or..?
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Cappadocia
A visit to Cappadocia, situated in the heart of Anatolia, may be the closest any of us will ever
get to being on the moon. The regions famous fairy chimneys stretch for miles in every
direction, looking like something out of the more mythical side of Turkeys history. You may be
startled and bemused by the sight of all these spooky and highly memorable formations at first,
but a few days in the territory will make you feel like a regular cave-dweller yourself.
The unusual earth architecture initially appears to be folkloric, perhaps created by some
ancient Greek god. In reality, Cappadocias strange formations are the result of volcanic activity
from three local peaks (Erciyes, Hasan, and Melendiz), which spread the soft material called
tuff across the landscape approximately 30 million years ago. The unique combination of tuff
and volcanic ash, along with millennia of erosion by wind and water left behind the stunning
chimneys you can see today. Equally mind-blowing are the innumerable caves cut into the rock
by early inhabitants which are still used today for everything from houses to restaurants to
storerooms; plan a trip to Greme if youre keen on seeing these dwellings still in common use.
If youre curious about the historical inhabitants of the area, definitely make a visit to the
underground cities a priority. Here, youll find a striking early religious influence, created
during the Roman period when Christians attempting to escape government persecution
took shelter under the earth. They built houses and cathedrals on plans featuring up to eight
subterranean stories and kilometer upon kilometer of tunnels.
Although frequent buses and dolmues run between the main sites of tourist interest here, the
roads are often poor quality and the sites are quite spread out. If youre on a tight schedule and
money isnt an obstacle, you might want to look into renting a car for the duration of your stay
in Cappadocia.
Cappadocia
CAPPADOCIA
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CAPPADOCIA
Greme
The small but vibrant town of Greme makes an excellent base for seeing the highlights of
Cappadocia. A 30-minute bus trip from the much larger Nevehir, Greme is tiny enough that
you wont get lost and in all likelihood your hostel will be mere steps from the very central
otogar. Dont let its small size deceive you, though! Gremes packed with things to see and do,
and is the only place in Cappadocia where locals still live in the dug-out caves at the base of the
fairy chimneys.
Cappadocia is as scenic as it comes, and hikers will be in paradise. Be sure not to miss the
gorgeous treks through Pigeon Valley and Rose Valley, both of which guarantee panoramas
youll not soon forget; pick up a free map from the bus station, as the trails are sometimes
poorly signposted.
By the time you end up in Greme, youll probably have heard travelers from all over raving
about the Open-Air Museum, a short walk from the city center. Its haunting caves and towering
chimneys are more than fascinating enough by themselves, but the Dark Church inside is also
well worth checking out.
If its partying youre after, head to Fat Boys Bar & Restaurant, 30 seconds walk from the
otogar, for a lively game of pool and a few cold glasses of Efes. Youll find plenty of thirsty locals
and travelers alike at this chilled-out hangout.
In particular, try Silk Road Restaurant ( Mze Caddesi ) for some traditionally cooked local
tastes. A note of caution to Greme-bound travelers: the recent tourism boom here has taken
a serious toll on the regions ecosystems. Water shortages are common, and trash can be seen
all too often on the otherwise
majestic lookout points. Please
do your best to ensure that
your visit not only is amazing
for you but also leaves the
town just as spectacular for
the next people to come
along!
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horse rides or sightseeing tours if youre
feeling adventurous. Also take a gander at
the specials advertised on-line as well as
in-house- often youll be able to score a free
Turkish coffee or other treats.
Cappadocia
Holiday Cave has something for everyone,
from jacuzzi-equipped suites to twenty-one
clean and simple private rooms to two mixed
dorm rooms, all provided with the all-
important air conditioning. Shampoo, soap,
towels, slippers, and hair dryers can also be
supplied if you find youve forgotten yours.
Although its only a short walk from the
otogar, Holiday Cave feels far away from the
bustle of Gremes main streets; its an ideal
place to stay if youre looking for a game of
pool in the common room, a leisurely swim,
or just a place to relax with a drink from the
bar.
Dont forget to ask the staff whats in season
from the garden out back! In fact, the
employees at Holiday Cave are a big part of
the places charm, and a chat with them is
just as good a way to spend the afternoon
as any. They can also help you to arrange
Holiday Cave Hotel
Orta Mah. Masat St. - Greme
+90 384 271 25 55
info@holidaycave.com
www.holidaycave.com
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Orta Mah. Adnan Kahveci Cad.
No:12 Greme
+90 384 271 21 00
info@andromedatour.com
www.andromedatour.com
Cappadocia
Andromeda Tour & Travel Service has been
operating in the travel business since 2005,
as a specialist handling agent in Turkey. They
have been awarded by the Turkish Ministry
of Tourism and Turkish Travel Agencies
Associations recently for their high quality
of service, but fortunately high quality
doesnt come with high budgets for them.
Andromeda is specialized in Tailor Made
Tours, whatever you want from your trip they
can use their detailed knowledge to plan
your ideal itinerary. The great thing about
Tailor Made Tours is that your complete trip is
designed around your interests and budget,
so you can explore at your own pace and
select accommodation that best suits you.
They do not only book your Turkey tours but
also they can provide you with assistance
of local suggestions, hotel bookings, flight
tickets, car rentals and transfers.
Andromeda Tours
Turgut zal Street,
(Bus Station)No:11- Greme
+ 90 384 271 27 89
info@katpatukatour.com
www.katpatukatour.com
The Katpatuka partners are a unique blend
of 3 native Anatolian men and an Australian
woman with tourism and management
expertise. They offer exclusive services for
the discerning traveller, group tours for those
who desire an informal experience, as
well as brief tours for time limited
travellers.
As Katpatuka is based on
Cappadocia, they can offer every
possible activity from horseback riding
to Balloon tours, from amazing valleys to
hidden churches with different budget
option. Although they are specialized about
Cappadocia, they have interesting itineraries
throughout Turkey including; Pamukkale,
Ephesus, Troy, Nemrut and even stanbul.
Katpatuka Tour
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Cappadocia
A lot of pensions claim that their guests
are treated like close relatives, but Halils
takes it to another level entirely- the
accommodations are located inside the
familys home. Close to the center of the
town, its incredibly convenient
for exploring Gzelyurt, but
you may find yourself wanting
to just hang out in the bright
kitchen with the owners
instead. Youll never get sick of
their famous restaurant, utilizing vegetables
grown in the outdoor garden and lovingly
prepared each day- partake in a shared
meal with your hosts. The building itself is
spotless and bright, more so than you might
be expecting from a 140-year old Greek
house. If youre too full
to move after one of
the generous meals,
consider just sprawling
out and taking in the
view of the Gzelyurt
lake.
Halil Pension
Yukar Mahalle
Ama St. No: 35
Gzelyurt / Aksaray
+90 382 451 27 07
fatihsakin58@gmail.com
www.halilspension.com

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avuin Ky, Avanos
(1 km to Greme)
+90 384 532 72 25
info@muskaracavehotel.com
www.muskaracavehotel.com
Ideal for adventurers, Muskara Cave Hotel
is located just outside Greme, in direct
proximity to a balloon launch area. If you
like peace and quiet, this is the place to be
rather than the somewhat over-touristed
town center. And no need to worry about
how to get here, as they offer free shuttle
transfers from any bus station in
Cappadocia, 24 hours a day.
The spacious, comfortable
rooms will be a welcome sight
after hours on a cramped bus,
but dont spend too much time there. The
terraces are unmissable (a description which
can safely be applied to the tasty food served
at the terrace restaurant as well!) and theres
a tour desk to make sure you dont get bored
during your stay- they can help you out with
trekking routes, cultural nights, and more.
Muskara Cave Hotel

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Nemrut

Nemrut
Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Da in Turkish) is among Turkeys most iconic and well-known
destinations. You may have seen images of the gigantic stone heads scattered across the area
on tourist brochures or books concerning ancient civilizations; even if you havent, youre sure
to find the site breathtaking and a sure highlight of your trip to Turkey.
Built by slaves in the Kingdom of Commagene, the massive statues which now adorn the
summit were commissioned by King Antiochus in the first century BC as a grandiose and
ultimately narcissistic tribute to... himself. The complex served as a tomb and temple sanctuary,
and many of the decapitated heads which lie strewn across the mountain represent Greek gods
or the rulers of the kingdom (including, of course, Antiochus). The eastern temple still stands as
well, along with an altar made of sandstone and used for ritual sacrifice. Interestingly, the marks
on the stone heads, particularly the noses, are seemingly uniform and suggest the destructive
work of later iconoclasts.
Many people take pains to arrive at the peak of Mount Nemrut at dawn, in order to see the ruins
by the light of the rising sun. Its a truly impressive sight, but going later in the day will spare
you the crowds as well as the necessity of waking up well before first light in order to make it
to the relatively remote site by daybreak. If youd prefer to stay overnight, try the Gne Hotel,
close to the summit and relatively cheap.
Numerous tours to the mountain are available out of stanbul or nearer cities such as Malatya;
alternately, take a dolmu or rent your own car. Regardless of how you get there, youll need to
walk the last half kilometer on your own.
Take note: Mount Nemrut can only be visited from March to October due to its high
altitude and the heavy snows which fall here in the winters.
Mount Nemrut
129



Nemrut
On the way from Nemrut to Adiyanman, stop by a village called Eski Kahta (Old Kahta), before
getting to Kahta town. The old village was once the capital of the district; with an amazing but
(probably still) under renovation, Kahta Yeni Kale, a castle build by Memlks as a palace and
then converted to a castle by Seluks. The area is also full of historical brigdes on the way and
unexplored ruins.
Old Kahta
Eski Kahta, Kahta,
Adyaman Region.
+90212 594 28 02
info@caferomee.com
www.caferomee.com
Although it is not much to do except visiting
the castle and old bridges around, in this
little village, you can have a break with
original Eastern-Turkey village life way far
from tourism. This cafe restaurant and small
pension all combined inside an old village
house and a nice small garden is your only
choice, but definetely not a bad one. .With
wi-fi and air conditionn in the rooms, basic
and cheap, with breakfast included in the
price.
Ask for Menengi Kahvesi, a kind of coffe with
milk, done from wild pistache trees , special
to the area.
Cafe Romee
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Diyarbakr
Despite not being in the top-list of touristic destinations, this city is extremely interesting from
the historical and architectural point of view.Diyarbakr areas history goes back to the stone
age. The remains of the Neolithic settlements are to be found in the Diyarbakir Museum. The city
was then occupied by many different civilizations among which the Assyrians, the Seleucids, the
Persians, the Romans and of course the Ottomans.
The city is still surrounded by the old city walls, which were restored by the Romans. Recently,
a very well-kept park has been developed along the walls, allowing a very pleasant walk for
the tourists. The four gates which constituted the only entrances to the city are also still intact:
Dakap, Mardinkap, Urfakap, ve Yenikap. Also the towers are worth to see, particularly Nur
Burcu, Yedi Karde Burcu and Malikah Burcu. The Kale ( inside castle), which is unfortunately
under constant reconstruction, you can still have a great view on the Tigris.
If you have only a day, we suggest you at least a visit to Ulu Camii, very central, the Orthodox
Syrian Christian Meyrem Ana Kilesi (Church of the Virgin Mary) and the Armenian Surpaab
Kilisesi. Not to be missed is also the Mala Dengbeja, very close to Meyrem Ana Kilesi, meeting
place of traditional singers-storytellers of the area: sit with them in the patio and you will hear
their very peculiar way of singing.
If you ask where to have some nice food, everyone will tell you to go to Onur Ocakba (from
Gazi Cad. turn on S.Nazif st. No:6), in the historical center of the city. And they are right! Follow
the advice of the locals and go and eat a great kebab!
Getting to Diyarbakr by land from Istanbul is quite time consuming, while it is more
reasonable if you are coming from Ankara or somewhere closer in Turkey. Anyhow there are
buses and trains. Pegasus Airlines however offers very affordable prices for flights to and from
Diyarbakr, especially if booked in advance.

Diyarbakr
131



Diyarbakr
Kibris Cad. No:23
+90 412 224 70 96
www.diyarbakiraslanotel.com
Dagkap,
Hz Suleyman Cad. No: 19
+90 412 228 10 14
info@hotelsurkent.com.tr
www.hotelsurkent.com.tr
Ofis Dilce St.
(in front of Saray Market)
+90 505 431 94 95
mahyakahvesievi@gmail.com
facebook.com/mahyakahveevi
Newly renovated, simple but clean hotel,
well located and with reasonable prices. You
can choose between rooms en-suite or with
shared toilets. Breakfast is included in the
price, wireless connection is available and
so are few computers in the dining room. All
rooms have TV, Air condition (is a must if you
are visiting on summer time) and refrigerator
inside.
Surkent Hotel is the cheapest hotel of the
city. The atmosphere is comparable to the
one of a hostel, with friendly (non-English-
speaking) receptionists and
colorful rooms (slightly
kitsch). The rooms are very
clean, but average, breakfast
is not included in the prices.
In the lively district of Ofis, Mahya Kahve
Evi is cozy cafe with more than 10 different
kind of coffee, meeting place for travelers,
musicians, street artists and locals. The owner
of the place is an interesting man who knows
the area really well and is very friendly. If
Diyarbakir is your first destination in Turkey,
or if you are thinking about where to go
next, step by the coffee shop and have a
chat with Hasan.
If you need a guide, ask for Omer, a very
helpful guy who is happy to show people
around of a reasonable price.
Aslan Otel
Surkent Hotel
Mahya Kahve Evi
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Mardin
With its picturesque old buildings spilling down the hillside on which the city was built, Mardin is
a beautiful and often-overlooked stop on the route through southeastern Turkey. Although it used
to have a bad reputation as a hotbed of PKK activity, Mardin is slowly gaining back cred as a travel
destination, and nowadays is very safe. The view from the hill on the Syrian border it is simply stunning
and the whole old town, Eski Mardin, is full of interesting atelier, artisans, home-made wine shops and
amazing old buildings.
Dont miss the bazaar or the Krklar Kilesesi (Forty Martyrs Church, ), both in the old city. However,
the real attraction of Mardin is the fascinating blend of cultures- Turkish, Kurdish, Assyrian, and Arab-
which can be observed throughout the entire town.
Hasankeyf
This magnificent and historical little town, ringed by prehistoric caves and infused with centuries of
Seljuk, Kurdish, and Arab history, is reachable by dolmu from Batman. Its magnificent rock formations
and evocative ruins would be worth a visit under any circumstances, but as it is, you should make
it Hasankeyf a top priority; there are controversial plans in place to construct a dam nearby which
would leave much of the area underwater and destroy countless important sites, as well as displace
thousands of inhabitants. The town was added to the World Monuments Fund Watch List in 2008 and
there has been a major outcry against the proposed construction, but it may not be enough. Get there
while you can!

Mardin
1. Cad. No: 230
+904822121870
gabrielcilli@hotmail.com
www.suryanisarapcilik.com
This shop should be your first stop at the
beginning of your stay and the last one
before leaving. Oktay is an extremely helpful
English speaking gold and silver artisan. The
shop looks indeed just like all the others,
but walk him ask to taste his home made
wine! Sryani Wine is a special taste from the
region and the tradition is coming from ages
even before Christianity.
Mardin Sryani arap Evi
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Mardin
ehidiye Mah. 39.St. No:13
+90 482 212 32 72
info@darakonagi.com
www.darakonagi.com
Yeni St. 29,No: 3
(Next to Sabanci Museum)
+90 482 213 72 02
bilgi@merlinkonagi.com
www.merlinkonagi.com
1 Cad. 246 St. No:10
(In front of Erdoba Osmanl Kona)
+904822132300
bilgi@sahmeranpansiyon.com
www.sahmeranpansiyon.com
The mansion bears witness to 800 years of
history in the legendary city of Mardin. The
building and grounds have been restored
with the original structure and spirit in mind,
so guests will feel the hospitality and warmth
of an ancient Mesopotamia
savannah. Stones that were
handcrafted 800 years ago stand
firm against the erosion of time
while speaking softly to you of a
time long past.
Recently opened restaurant-cafe spread on
three different floors of an old building, with
a wonderful view on Mesopotamia valley.
The mansion offers an incredible
atmosphere for your night in
Mardin. Service is perfect and
very friendly, but with very poor
English.
Nice and cozy pension with different kinds
of accommodations: dorms, single and
private rooms, some of which in the old
building (which means very chilly
also during summer!). The hotel
has a lovely patio in the middle,
common living room with TV and
common kitchen.
The name of each room represents a
civilization that shaped Madins history.
There are 2 single, 5 double, 1 triple and
2 suite rooms in the mansion. Please note
the terrace used for breakfast has a nice
view overlooking to the beautiful city and
surroundings.
Dara Kona
Merlin Kona
ahmeran Butik Otel
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134
Hatay
The Hatay, a wedge of Turkey cutting into the northwestern border of Syria, is a bit of a world
apart from the rest of the country. The regions largest town, Antakya, has seen empires come
and go but now seems almost more Arab than Turkish; indeed, Syrian Arabic is the mother
tongue of the majority of inhabitants, although Turkish is almost universally understood. The
influence of the areas southern neighbor doesnt end there, and can be seen in everything from
the desserts (try knefe) to the ancient Christian ruins dating back to when the city was called
Antioch. Check out the teahouses in Byk Antakya Park as well as the classical mosaics
found in the Archaeological Museum.
At the moment, we suggest you to avoid getting close to the Syrian border,
due to the ongoing unrest in the country. We hope that for the next edition the
situation will be better and we will be able to offer you a different advice.
Hatay
Onward to Syria!
If you want something central, look no farther
than Mosaik. As you can probably guess from
the name, much of the hotel is decorated
with interesting patterns on the walls,
including some of the large and generously-
furnished rooms. Theres a jacuzzi and room
service, so its a great place to relax in the
heart of Antakya. Cable TV, a mini-bar, and
wi-fi are all available as well.
A slightly cheaper but still worthwhile
option is the Hotel Saray (meaning palace
in Turkish). Its nice and clean with fans
available for you to cool off in the summer,
although theres no air conditioning. Its a
little rough around the edges but nothing
that adventurous travelers wont enjoy. Saray
is definitely good value for the price- many of
the rooms have balconies with nice views, as
well as TVs.
Mozaik Otel
Hotel Saray
stiklal Cad. No:18 -
Antakya
+90 326 215 50 20
reservasyon@mozaikotel.com
www.mozaikotel.com
Hrriyet Cad. No:3 - Antakya
+90 326 214 90 01
135


Van
136
Van
Located on the eastern shore of Lake Van, the
largest lake in Turkey, Van is a small city steeped in
history. Archaeological finds dating back to 5000
BC have been encountered here, although the city
proper is presumed to have been an important
capital of the Urartian Kingdom starting in the 9th
century BC. Van is famous for its white cats with
one green eye and one blue, who- unusually- enjoy
swimming.
Check out Tuba, Vans old city. The spectacular palace complex of the Urartian Kingdom still
stands, and visitors will find numerous points of interest- the double hamam is particularly cool.
Van Castle, unsurprisingly, is the focal point of Tuba, and includes burial chambers and temple
foundations. Take a look at the inscriptions which can be found all around the complex. Akdamar
Church (also known as the Church of the Holy Cross) is also well worth a visit. The interior of
the church is famous for its beautiful carvings depicting a range of Biblical scenes, as well as the
impressive animal-adorned border running all the way around the building.
Along with its bizarre cats and its incredible setting, theres another big thing
Van is justly famous for: its breakfasts. Breakfast halls are still are tradition
here, where people gather for the most important meal of the day and
choose from a huge spread of dishes to get them going in the morning.
St Fevzi Kahvalt Salonu (Kahvaltcilar St. No:9) is one of the local
favorites, popular with both travelers and the citys inhabitants themselves.
The elegant yet simple Aiyan Ev Yemekleri
(Kazm Karabekir Cad.) boasts hands down
some of the best food youll find in Van,
about any kind of traditional Turkish food you
can name here- and, more than likely, a huge
selection of ones you cant! Dont miss the
pilav, mant, and karnyark- all home-cooked
in the local style, as with everything on the
menu here. But Aiyan is most well-known for
its succulent desserts. Try some old favorites like
baklava, or get a little more adventurous and try
the kays tatls (an apricot-based sweet dish).
Van & Around
137


Van
Located in the far eastern reaches of Turkey, Van is a long way away from stanbul. Buses and
trains do run there relatively frequently, but youre in for a grueling journey (roughly 24 to 28
hours from stanbul by bus, or 20 hours from Ankara). The bus station is a few kilometers outside
of town; free shuttles run into central Van, but remember to allow some extra time for this if you
have a schedule to keep.
You can take a train from Haydarpaa in stanbul to Tatvan, across Lake Van, on Mondays and
Fridays. The trip takes 40 hours. From there, get on the four-hour ferry to cross the lake.
If you want to save some time, catch a plane to Van Airport from any of the major western cities.
Its a few kilometers outside of town, so youll need to either hire a taxi or walk to the main road
and get a dolmu.
Getting to Van
In business for over 25 years, Akdamar
Restaurant is undoubtedly a top choice for
sampling eastern Turkish cuisine. Situated
right on the edge of Lake Van, you can dine
in style with a view of the water,
watching the ships crossing to the
harbor. Sit on the outside terrace
for the best atmosphere- there
are shade canopies to shield you
from the sun, and the bright colors
and plentiful greenery will make you feel
relaxed and welcome. Choose from a variety
of traditional or more international dishes;
the house specialties include a delicious pilav
and the famous Van breakfast spread.
Theres more to Akdamar than the food,
though: you can pitch your tent for free here,
and pay the same price (nothing!) for a
hot shower at the end of the day. Weary
travelers will feel right at home here, and
the friendly owner will do everything in his
power to keep you feeling that way.
Akdamar Camping & Restaurant
Akdamar Adas Kars,
Geva
+90 432 214 34 79
ibrahimakdamar@hotmail.com
www.akdamarrestaurant.net

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138
Zbeyde Hanm Cad. No:26
+90 432 215 00 05
bilgi@mavituanahotel.com
www.mavituanahotel.com
Shke Cad. No:5
+90 432 216 62 65
harun6580@hotmail.com
www.otelside.com
Van
Mavi Tuana has single, double and triple
en-suited rooms with TV, AC and wireless. An
abundant breakfast is included in
the price, quite safe and clean,
although seems like a big hotel;
prices are reasonable.
Hotel Side is a simple hotel, with 24-hour
front desk service. As in this area you will
struggle to find budget hotels, it is a good
value one. The rooms of Side
Hotel include a flat-screen
TV with satellite channels,
heating and a minibar. Each
room has a private bathroom
with a hairdryer. Check out the view from the
terrace while making your breakfast(included
in the price).
Mavi Tuana Otel
Otel Side
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To truly experience the vastness and calm
of Turkeys largest lake, embark on a boat
tour to one of its many islands. Grand Deniz
Turizm can organize trips to a number of
islands including Ahtamara and arpanak,
where you will experience
the laid-back pace of life in
the eastern region and the
soothing harmony of nature,
where the green shore meets
the blue of the water.
Grand Deniz also has a traditional restaurant
serving three meals a day, but most especially
the Van breakfast which the area is famous
for. If you fancy a lakefront picnic, their
location is unbeatable- take your food right
down to the waterside!
Grand Deniz Turizm
Next to Seluklu Cemetery
+90 432 612 40 38
granddeniz@gmail.com
www.granddeniz.com

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139

Doubeyazt
Next to Ishak Paa Palace
+905424373699
mt.arat@hotmail.com
www.muratcamping.com
The history of Doubeyazt/Doubayazt goes back to more than 2700 years ago, when it
was part of the Kingdom of Urartu. It was lately conquered by Persians, Romans, Arabs, and
Byzantines, before then becoming part of the Ottoman Empire in 1514. It then went through
the Turko-Persian war, the Russian-Turkish War and the First World War.
The town, surrounded by the highest mountain in Turkey, is located around 15 km southwest
of Mount Ararat, 93 km east of the city of Ar and 35 km from the Iranian border. It is an ideal
location for an alternative view on Turkey and to visit around some interesting not well-known
attractions: go and see the beautiful Ishak Pasha Palace, climb Mount Ararat and wander
around some interesting ruins on Giriktepe Hill.
The impressive shak Paa Saray is a relatively modern palace built in the seventeenth century
by the reigning Ottoman Empire. Famous for its Ottoman art and its stunning location on a
valley slope (5 kms outside of Doubeyazt), the palace is actually an entire complex rather than
a single building. Be on the lookout for Quranic inscriptions praising the pashas.
Murat camping is located on the way to
shak Paa Palaceand there you will find a
welcoming campground, 10 rooms and a nice
restaurantwith an amazing view. The friendly
staff also organizes tours around Dou
Beyazt. Ask for tour options and culture tours
and climbing to the Mt. Ararat
(foreigners need a permission
from Turkish government.
Contact them they manage to
take it in one or two days. )
Their tours contains airport transfer from 5
airports around 5 different cities. Climbing
package includes accommodation, food, tour
guide and permission. Otherwise you can go
also for the only guide-permission option to
make it cheaper! Check out araratexpeditions.
com for further information.
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141


Safranbolu
BLACK SEA
Located in the Western Black Sea region, Safranbolu is a charming little town retaining much
of its Ottoman character from previous centuries. In fact, its known for being perhaps the
most Ottoman city in all of Turkey; due to its historical architecture, Safranbolu has been
named to the UNESCO World Heritage List. Particularly interesting to history enthusiasts is
the Kaymakamlar Evi, which features separate courtyards with windows from the harem
quarters as well as the mens rooms (known as selamlk). If you want to catch a view of the
entire old town from a height, make your way to Hdrlk Tepesi.
Cooks and eager shoppers should keep an eye out for saffron, the spice for which Safronbolu
was named. Alternately, sample some in the local cooking at Taev (Hdrlk Yokuu 14), also
featuring a gallery and an impressive collection of wines.
Safranbolu is roughly six hours outside of stanbul by bus and makes a fantastic waypoint
for travelers heading east to Samsun, Trabzon, or Georgia. Most intercity buses will drop you
in the modern town; to reach the much more picturesque old town (Eski Safranbolu), hop
on a dolmu. Numerous great daytrips are possible- hop on a dolmu and get exploring! In
particular, check out the old towns of Hadranoupolis (Eskipazar) and about 10 km away.
Also reachable from Safranbolu at a distance of 8 km is the countrys fourth largest cave,
known as Bulak Cavern (Mencilis Maaras in Turkish).

142
avu Mah. Kayadibi St. 8
+90 370 725 26 88
info@backpackerspension.com
www.backpackerspension.com
BLACK SEA
Safranbolu
Efe Guesthouse was recently remodeled in
2006, but the original look and feel of the
180-year old building lingers on, giving
guests the illusion of stepping back in time.
With reasonable prices and
a friendly smile waiting for
anyone who walks through
the front door, Efes is a great
choice tucked away in one
of Safranbolus charming streets.
The owners and staff are genuinely eager
to please and will happily give you service
with a smile if you have any questions to
ask of them. To the same end, Efes provides
a transfer from the bus station so you dont
have to lug your bags around searching for
a sign.
There are eight rooms with
a total 30-person capacity;
dorms as well as singles and
doubles are available. There is a lounge and
a kitchen for common use, along with an
incredible terrace with some of the best
views youve probably ever seen in a hotel!
Efe Backpackers Pension & Guesthouse

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For a bit of a splash-out upscale option,
you cant do better than the Cinci Han. The
architecture is one of the big draws of the
place, and you wont be disappointed- its
hard not to be awed by the solid stone
rooms dating back to the 17th century
and once used as a Silk Road stopover. The
staff is similarly excellent and most have
a professional background in tourism and
hospitality education, so you know the
service will be superlative. Choose from 22
standard rooms or one of two suites.
If youre eager to check out the historical
building but arent feeling like being a big
spender, a cheaper alternative is to simply sit
down for a meal in the attached restaurant.
Its constructed in the area where weary
travelers would once leave their pack animals,
but you wouldnt guess that today. Its clean
and welcoming, a great place to cast off your
own burden and sip a cup of tea. If youre in
a hurry, though, you can tour the building for
an admission fee of 1 TL.
Cinci Han Hotel
Eski arsi esme Cinci Han
+90 370 712 06 90
info@cincihan.com
www.cincihan.com

143

Black Sea
Featuring prominently in the 20th century history of the Turkish Republic as well as being
an important sea port throughout the years, Samsun is nevertheless short on areas of
touristic interest. The main exceptions are the two museums in town. The first of these is the
Archaeological Museum, displaying an impressive mosaic salvaged from the old settlement of
Karasamsun, while the second, the Gazi Museum, is dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatrk, the
founder of the modern republic.
Heading east from Samsun, take a drive along the scenic Yason Burnu (Cape Jason), so named
for the famous Argonaut. An ancient temple dedicated to the hero is said to have once stood
here; now, it has been replaced by a quaint church, well worth a visit.
Just two hours from Safranbolu by bus, the sleepy coastal town of Amasra is a historical
goldmine minus the crowds youre likely to find in the Black Sea regions larger cities. With quiet
beaches, two islands for exploration, and a history stretching back to ancient times, Amasra will
keep nature-lovers and architecture buffs alike enthralled. The impressive Amasra Castle dates
back to Roman rule and owes its eclectic appearance to numerous additions and improvements
by various occupiers throughout history. Take some time to visit the Church Mosque as well,
which, as the name suggests, has been used for both Christian and Muslim worship in the past.
To reach Amasra, you can take a bus from Bartn, the most convenient local hub 10 kilometers to
the south. From there, its an easy connection to Safranbolu. The roads are somewhat run-down
in this region, but look at it in a positive light- you might just have the place all to yourself.
Founded by the Greeks in the eighth century BC, Trabzon has a long and rich history spanning
numerous civilizations and accumulating, over the centuries, wide and varied influences.
Trabzon even boasts an ex-church museum called, familiarly, the Hagia Sophia (or Aya Sofya).
For reasonably-priced accommodation, stay at the Anl Otel (skenderpaa Mah; 0462 326 72
82) or T.S Park Otel (Atatrk Alan Meydan Cad. 5).
For spectacular views, you take take a dolmu up to the pleasant district of Boztepe, situated on
a hill. There are plans to construct a high-end hotel at the top, but for now, you can enjoy lunch
at the hilltop restaurant while checking out the view.
A second must-do excursion from Trabzon is Uzungl, 45 km outside the town of aykara. The
beautiful scenery is best viewed from a mountain bike, which you can hire at one of the many
shops and teahouses on its edges.
Trabzon is well-connected on public transportation routes and thus is relatively easy to reach.
The bus station is served by minibuses, and is closer to town than the airport (about three
kilometers).
Samsun
Amasra
Trabzon
144
Tnel k, Maka
+90 462 512 23 18
info@kayadibisaklibahce.com
www.kayadibisaklibahce.com
Take a taxi or catch a tour to Smela Monastery, roughly 48 km southeast of the city. Built
in Byzantine times after the Greek monk Barnabas discovered a holy icon here, it hugs
the cliffside in a remarkable feat of engineering. The monastery is currently undergoing
restorations, but fortunately, they dont interfere with visitation and Smela remains a
heavily trafficked pilgrimage site. Although you may notice some of the wear and tear which
prompted the Turkish governments restoration plans (most prominently on the frescoes),
much of the building is intact and in relatively good shape. Check out the aqueduct at the
entrance and the Rock Church, as well as the numerous small monastic cells and assorted
chambers lining the passageways.
If youre planning a visit to Smela, chances are youll find yourself in the nearby town of
Maka at some point during your excursion. Aside from the breathtaking natural scenery
(think: more cliffs of the Smela variety), theres not terribly much to do or see here, but it
does make a refreshing and uncrowded stop.
Smela / Trabzon
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Hands down one of the best-kept secrets
of the area, dont miss the hidden Kayadibi
Saklbahe Restaurant. You can find it on
your way to Smela Monastery, just before
entering Maka- its located
immediately after a tunnel.
The location couldnt be
better, and youll definitely
enjoy the peaceful garden and
pleasant views. But of course youre really
coming for the food! Most of the menu here
is local fare served in generous portions.
Youll recognize the traditional Turkish dishes
youve probably eaten elsewhere such as
grilled meat plates and pilav, but youll also
find specialty regional foods. Try the stuffed
grape leaves and the local black cabbage
soup.
Kayadibi Saklbahe Restaurant
BLACK SEA
Trabzon
145


The mid-sized city of Rize is the last semi-major city on Turkeys west-to-east Black Sea coastal
route toward Georgia. Somewhat lacking in tourist attractions but definitely not in charm, Rize
offers a museum (on Ulubatl St.) displaying traditional costumes in an old Ottoman building,
as well as a Genoese castle overlooking the town. Snack like a king at the conveniently-located
cafe in the castle, and take in the views of the city afforded by the places prime location. Rize is
a great place to learn about the history of the local Laz people as well- the museum will get you
started.
Rizes fame, however, comes from its prominence in Turkeys tea industry; east of Trabzon, the
climate is ideal for its production. You can see the tea bushes growing all over the area at low
altitudes as you enter the city. Once inside, shop around for local varieties to take home or have
a wander through the tea garden known as Ziraat, where you can enjoy a cup of ay when you
visit. Not only for tea, the gardens have a variety of pretty plants.
Connoisseurs of fine food and drink would do well to make the 10-kilometer trip outside
Rize to ayeli, where youll find one of Turkeys three Hsrev Restaurants (ayeli k Hopa
stikameti). All sorts of local food is available, but be sure to try one of their famous bean dishes
in particular.
The Maahel Valley is truly one of Turkeys untouched gems- so much so that international
visitors require a special permit to access the 23 villages scattered along the Machakhlistskali
River. The area was under Georgian control until it fell to the Ottoman empire in 1479; even
today, however, the way of life in the valleys tiny settlements seems to consist of an alluring
mix of Turkish and Georgian tradition. The village life isnt the only attraction here, though, and
youre sure to keep busy with trekking and snapping photographs of the incredible views all
around you.
To organize a tourism permit, contact Kenan Kahya at +90 532 652 41 96. Kenan also manages
a highly-recommended pension in the valley called Bunbulay Pansiyon and is generous about
sharing his extensive knowledge of the area.
Rize
Rize
BLACK SEA

146
Aa amlca Yolu Sapa 1km.
amlhemin
+90 464 651 77 87
info@turkutour.com
www.ekodanitap.com
Rize makes an excellent jumping-off point to visit the spectacular Kakar Mountains. Part
of northern Turkeys Pontic range, the area has been a national park since 1994 and features
some of the most unspoiled and rugged terrain anywhere in the country. Nature-lovers will
be in paradise; endless trekking opportunities are available, taking you past waterfalls and
lush mountains pastures known as yaylalar. You can even summit Mount Kakar, the fourth-
highest peak in Turkey.
One of the most important and heavily-trafficked (relatively speaking, of course!) access
points to the Kakar region is the little town of amlhemin. Famous for its lush forests and
rolling hills, amlhemin is worth a visit year round, although you may want to make a
special effort to visit if you happen to be in the area in the autumn; the foliage is impressive.
Kakar Mountains
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Ekodanitap is, quite simply, unmissable. The
setting is straight out of some rustic fairy
tale, encompassing rivers and mountains
and deep forests, all conspiring to bring you
back into contact with nature.
The owner, a transplant
from big-city Istanbul,
makes his dedication to
environmentalism and
sustainable living apparent from
the get-go (the hotels name is a play on
the word Kodanitap, meaning flat place in
Armenian), and that positive, natural attitude
is what youll find here in abundance.
Ekodanitap has just about everything you
could ask for in such a remote location. The
manager is also a local guide who knows all
there is to know and more about the region;
should you get a hankering to go exploring,
he can take you on a tour of the mountains.
The views are amazing, of course, and the
food is organic (breakfast and dinner are
included). The range of homegrown products
is incredible- try their wine, liquors, tea,
and fruit. If you find that you just cant tear
yourself away, Ekodanitap is often looking for
volunteers to help out around the place.
Luckily but perhaps surprisingly given the
remote location, the lodge is open all year
round. Find it just before amlhemin on
the right; youll have to walk for about ten
minutes, but its signposted.
Ekodanitap
BLACK SEA
Kakar Mountains
147



Ayder Yaylas Turizm Merkezi
+90 464 657 20 35
ayder@naturaotel.com
www.naturaotel.com
Aa Ambarlk Mevkii
+90 464 657 21 23
liligumpansiyon@gmail.com
www.ayderliligum.com
The countryside around Rize and the Kakars is ripe for exploring and riddled with tiny villages
living a lifestyle which seems centuries removed. The little mountain town of Ayder is one of
these hidden gems. To see its natural thermal springs for yourself, just hop a dolmu from the
town of Pazar, which is in turn accessible by minibus from Rize. Nature lovers will be in ecstasy at
this summer paradise, surrounded by waterfalls, lakes and mountain pastures; culture enthusiasts
should keep an eye out for the bagpipes which are commonly played in the region.
Ayder / Kakar Mountains
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Hikers intent on getting an early start in the
Kakars may want to stay in one of the trail-
head villages for a night before setting out.
The clean Natura Lodge flls the need perfectly,
with 21 rooms and ofering great scenery with
a rustic feel. They can set up a variety
of Kakar tours for you, designed
to cover all of the regions most
majestic highlights while under the
supervision of a trained guide.
Open year round, Natura Lodge (as the name
suggests!) is committed to keeping things
green. Everything about the place feels clean
Fresh strawberries. Fields of wildflowers. A
peaceful haven, ringed by waterfalls, just
steps from the boundless wilderness of the
Kakars. Sound good? Then Liligum is the
place for you. This family-run place
is all about the little touches
which make you feel at home-
newly-cut flowers adorning your
room, homegrown vegetables in
the delicious local-styled cooking, evening
teatime together while you admire the view.
and unspoiled, from the tasteful wooden
building to the fresh meals prepared in the
lodge restaurant. A selection of tours and
activities can be arranged, including rafting and
swimming, and youre sure not to go wanting
for things to keep you busy outdoors in this
spectacular natural paradise.
The wood-furnished rooms are equipped
with ensuite bathrooms and hot water is
a guarantee 24 hours a day. Just one note
of caution: Liligum is only open in the
summertime, so check availability if youre
planning a trip for one of the shoulder
seasons.
Natura Lodge
Liligum Mountain House
Kakar Mountains
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148
149

If you want to hop over to Georgia for a bit or continue your adventures in the neighboring
country, Rize makes a good starting point. You can catch a bus to Batumi (five hours) or the
capital city of Tblisi (eleven hours) from the otogar about a kilometer to the west of town;
generally five or six buses cross the border daily. From Rize, the journey will take you to Sarp, a
border town which has become the primary crossing point between Turkey and Georgia since
the end of the Cold War. The last stop before the border is Hopa, from which point you can
easily walk across into Georgia. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, as they are throughout Georgia;
the trip to Batumi is around 25 kilometers and should run you 20-25 lari (roughly 20 TL). Most
taxi drivers speak good Turkish. Make sure you have the proper visas and documents; citizens of
Australia and New Zealand currently require visas (although EU and US citizens do not).
Although Georgia, like Turkey, stands at a geographical crossroads between east and west, its
culture and history are very much its own. Centuries of invasion and occupation have left their
marks on the Georgian landscape, but the Georgian people, unrelated to either the Turks or
the Russians, are absolutely unique. Georgia has been a predominantly Christian nation since
roughly the fourth century AD and boasts hundreds of ancient churches and monasteries
scattered throughout its picturesque mountain ranges and mirrored lakes. The Georgian people,
who value friendship above all else, are known for being open and hospitable. The warm spirit
of the locals is just one of the many reasons to visit this small and beautiful country.
The importance of both food and drink to Georgian culture is best observed during a feast, or
supra, when a huge assortment of dishes is prepared, always accompanied by large amounts of
wine, and dinner can last for hours. In a Georgian feast, the role of the tamada (toastmaster) is
an important and honored position.
Georgian dishes draw inspiration from the cuisines of its geographical neighbors. Youll find
many local foods which closely mirror popular Turkish meals as well as some, such as shashlik
(shish kebabs), which are common in central Asia. Among the vast variety of delicious dishes to
try are tkemali, a plum sauce, and kharcho, a traditional soup made with beef and rice.
Getting to Georgia
Culture and History
Food
Georgia


150
Dumbadze Street 12/14
(on Europe Square)
+995 93 33 14 99
levanikhujadze@gmail.com
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Georgias prime coast is right here- look no further. Located on the Black Sea, Batumi is a
thriving party city where travelers, businessmen, locals, and students of all nationalities come
to unwind and let down their hair on the pebbly beaches and in the crowded nightclubs. Its a
popular destination for vacationing Turks, with its convenient location just a few hours from the
border, and makes a great first stop for anyone heading east from Rize.
Partiers will find endless entertainment in Batumi, from the
countless bars and clubs to the Turkish casinos which have
sprung up here due to the illegality of gambling back across
the border. Eredelis Bar (Baratashvilit Street 1) is one fun
venue with frequent live shows. Due to the tourism boom in
the area, there is no shortage of accommodation options; Sky
Hostel (Inasadridze Street 16/59) and Globus Hostel (Mazniashvili Street 54) are both good
choices, or read on for more detailed recommendations! Petri Rashi (or White Horse, located
at Gorgiladze Street 2) is a great stop for those with rumbling stomachs, serving big portions of
delicious local food.
Getting to and from Batumi is generally a hassle-free undertaking. An airport services the city
from 2 kilometers south, and numerous buses run to various locations daily, including Trabzon
in Turkey and the Georgian capital of Tbilisi, 6 hours distant. If you prefer the freedom of driving
your own vehicle, Acara Rent A Car, with an office at the airport, is recommended.
Vinyl is Batumis original alternative cafe.
Despite its name, the ownership of Vinyl
Bar emphasizes that this is not a place
to come looking for fancy cocktails, but
rather a welcoming gathering place for
friends and artists, a place for conversation
and relaxation. With the focus squarely on
mingling and chilling out, you know youll
receive a warm welcome here.
Food is served along with drinks- definitely
try the sandwiches, which are locally famous
with Georgians and expats alike. Youll often
find live shows on the terrace in the summer,
making Vinyl the place to sit back and meet
new friends after a long day of
Vinyl Bar
GEORGIA
Batumi
151



Gulnasis Guesthouse is a very cool little place
which is seasonal for the most interesting
reason weve yet come across- in the winter,
it functions as a schoolhouse! You can stay
here during the local kids vacation, which
runs roughly from mid-June to
mid-September. The hostel is
run by a Georgian family (with
English-speaking children), so
you can be sure of getting a
warm welcome.
Gen. Mazhiashvili 13,
Old Batumi
+995 555 50 77 05
batumihostel@hotmail.com
Lermatov Street 24A
+995 599 79 72 24
homestay@mail.ru
facebook.com/pages/Gulnasis-Guesthouse
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A new hostel with a recently changed address,
Batumi Hostel is a chilled out place run by a
young couple. Its located in the middle of the
Old Town and has the distinct advantage of
being close to... well, just about everything, so
you wont have to worry about arranging local
transport when you wake up groggy
from a night out on the town.
The hostel (constructed in an old
house) has two dorms and two
private rooms, all at prices which are
quite reasonable by local standards. Although
the place is only open in summertime, youll
fnd that its rarely packed to the gills like some
of the wilder hostels in town. Come expecting
to relax, not necessarily to continue the party
after you get home. To that end, there are
great balconies throughout the building and
strong showers with nice hot water to rinse
of the traveling grime. Sit back afterwards
in one of the comfortable leather couches in
the common room, or check out the quirky
decorations. Laundry service is available, wi-f
is free, and youll love the common kitchen if
youre the type who likes to save money by
hitting up the grocery stores. Take cash when
you check in, though, as credit cards are not
accepted.
Batumi Hostel
Gulnasis Guesthouse
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There are 20 rooms with shared bathrooms
and a common kitchen. The building is
wheelchair accessible and airport transfers,
as well as tours, can be arranged. Last but
definitely not least, tea and coffee are free
all day!
Batumi
GEORGIA

152
Georgias capital and largest city, Tbilisi is located in the countrys east-
central region, nestled in the low hills around the Trialeti mountains. The
citys name comes from the word for warm (tbili), a toponym referring to
its mythical origins. According to legend, Tbilisi was founded by a fifth-
century king who chose the site after he came across a magical hot spring
while pheasant-hunting.
Tbilisi is packed with things to do. Museum enthusiasts are spoiled for choice here; choose from
the Numismatic Museum (showcasing old coins, and located at G. Leonidze 3/5), the Museum
of Art (L. Gudiashvili 1), the Puppet Museum (Shavteli 17A), the Janashia Museum with its
spectacular archaeological collections (Rustaveli Av. 3), and many others. Architecture buffs
will love a wander through the well-preserved Old Town or a visit to any of the dozens of old
churches and mosques hidden in Tbilisis alleyways, while hikers will appreciate the picturesque
lakes just outside of town and the steep walk up to Narikala Fortress, which offers incredible
panoramic views. The sulfur baths, Georgias answer to Turkeys invigorating hamams, are also
well worth the experience, although you may not be able to get service in English. Head to the
district of Abanotubani if youre interested. If it all seems a bit overwhelming, check out the
terrific Explore Outdoor (Machabeli St. 7), which offers free city tours.
Tbilisi is a shoppers paradise, with open-air bazaars and curious little shops seemingly
everywhere you look. The Saturday market near the river (also known as the Dry Bridge
Market) has everything under the sun and you can often snag fascinating curios for dirt-cheap
prices. The slightly more mundane daily marketplace near Didube has an equally broad but
more everyday selection of goods.
Food and accommodation are rarely an issue in Tbilisi. A range of popular establishments are
available in both categories, such as the central and ever-thriving Boombully Rooms & Hostel
(Rustaveli Avenue 24) and the chain restaurant 24/24 (Leselidze Street 26).
As central as it is, Tbilisi has the added advantage of being extremely easy to reach and depart
from. Buses run constantly to and from the rest of Georgia and beyond, and the international
airport 17 km southeast of town is reachable by bus or taxi.
Tbilisi
GEORGIA
Tbilisi

153


Located in a two-storey house with a balcony
and a garden shaded with vines, Tbilisi
Hostel has great views of the ancient fortress
and mountains above the city. Relax in the
hammocks and bean-bags during the day
or party in the garden at night
with plenty of Georgian-style
drinking, or plan out your next
day of sightseeing with help
from the multilingual owner,
Rauf. Its located in an authentic traditional
neighbourhood, two minutes walk from a
farmers market, bakeries and supermarkets
and just ten minutes walk from the Old Town.
Iashvili Street 23, Tbilisi
+995 598 16 17 71
nesthosteltbilisi@gmail.com
Avlabari, Makhati
Shesakhvevi 22, Tbilisi
+995 322 74 76 68
tbilisi.hostel@gmail.com
www.tbilisihostel.com
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Nest Hostel is a colorful and incredibly well-
equipped hangout slash home-away-from-
home where you can fnd all kinds of fun
characters night and day. The place was opened
after Tbilisi bar owners noticed the endless
streams of foreign travelers trading stories in
their watering hole; nowadays, they divide their
time between hostel management and running
the af liated bar, Nest Bar (or BUDE Bar).
Theyve worked hard to make Nest
Hostel a place where hardcore
partiers and their more chilled out
compatriots alike can have a great
time. The foremost policy is do not
disturb, meaning that everyone is encouraged
to do their own thing so long as they dont
infringe on anyone elses fun!
All those amenities we mentioned? Free cofee
and tea all day, space for storing your luggage,
free maps, free towels, free book exchange,
a common kitchen, a computer available for
guest use, all kinds of local tips and information,
and of course, a smile every time you walk in
the door. Both dorms and privates are available.
Nest Hostel
Tbilisi Hostel
Great for partying, Tbilisi Hostel has a great
common garden, a common kitchen, and a
barbecue. Theres nowhere better to be in the
summertime! With a 30-person capacity, most
of the beds here are dorm-style. If you want
the one private room, make sure to book
ahead in summer.

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statues, prayer fags, and
rare musical instruments
are only the beginning.
The alcohol is cheap
and plentiful, so bring
your friends and grab a
seat. Youll feel the travel
stories start fowing out
of you. Dont forget to
the check the schedule
of events before you head over, because
Canudos is constantly hosting some fantastic
parties like the Naked Party, the Irish Party, the
Valentines Day Beer Pong Tournament, and
tons more.
A quiet happy hour followed by an increasing
volume level throughout the evening,
culminating in a crazy party when the sun
goes down. Sound good? Then youre in the
right place. With all kinds of music, great
DJs, and a clientele composed of artists and
musicians, Cafe Gallery is a tiptop place to
hang out with a beer in your hand or get a
bit wild. Friday and Saturday, as you might
imagine, are the big nights here. See whats
on tap!
Javakhishvili St,
Samaia Garden, Tbilisi
+995 591 91 13 11
canudosbar@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/canudos
48 Rustaveli Ave. / 34
Griboedov Str. Tbilisi
+995 322 99 57 47
www.cafe-gallery.info-tbilisi.com
Canudos Ethnic Bar is more
than just a place to get your
drink on, its a meeting place
and crossroads for all kinds of
artistic, political, and fun-
loving people from all over the earth. Theres
a very chilled out, live and let live vibe which
you will defnitely appreciate after a long day of
international exploration.
Named after an ancient city in Brazil which,
according to legend, was home to only the
pure-hearted, Canudos is efortlessly intriguing.
The walls are covered with
odds and ends from all corners
of the globe, esoterica ranging
from concert tickets, calling
cards, and paper money
to photographs, boarding
passes, and everything else
you can imagine. The artsy feel is carried over
into the rest of the bars decorations, which
range from quirky to fascinating- Buddha
Canudos Ethnic Bar
Cafe Gallery
The garden is great and
theres a gallery, as the name
suggests, which sometimes
hosts cool exhibitions.
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The town of Borjomi, which has existed in its modern incarnation
since the early 19th century, is located in south-central Georgia. It
has enjoyed increasing popularity in recent decades as a result of its
natural mineral water, which is commonly believed to contain healing
properties. The water, which is salty and volcanic, has its source in the
spring in Borjomi Gorge. If youre feeling a bit under the weather, you
can test its curative powers yourself with a dip in the natural hot pool 2 km down the river.
For more particular directions (as well as any other assistance you might require), ask Artur at
the fantastic tourism information center on the towns main street (+995 599 30 25 13).
Most of Borjomis attractions are in some way related to the springs. The
largest ecological theme park in the Caucasus is here, as well as a terrific
national park called Borjomi Kharagauli. You can get a day pass for free at
the head office, located a bit west of the town center on Meskheti Street.
Borjomis more diminutive size makes accommodation a bit harder to come by than in
metropolises like Tbilisi. Still, you shouldnt have too much trouble finding somewhere to
drop your bags. Try the seasonal Borjomi Hostel (Kostava Street 17) if youre around in
the summer, or if a homestay is more your style, give Marina a call at +995 367 22 01 70.
Restaurants can be found all over, and even the train station has delicious eats.
Buses and minibuses can get you in and out of Borjomi. Services run every hour from Tbilisi
and cost 8 lari. If youre coming from Batumi, take the morning bus costing 17 lari.
Borjomi
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156
2pm is usually open day for the new students.
Drop them an email or show up 15
min before if you feel like giving
it a try!
Asmalt Mescit Cad. No: 3,
4th floor, Beyolu
+90 212 251 35 34
info@turkceatolyesi.com
www.turkceatolyesi.com
nn Cad.
Prof. Tark Zafer Tunaya St.
No: 16
+90 212 292 96 96
dilmer@dilmer.com
www.dilmer.com
Katp elebi Mah. Tel St.
No: 47 (Taksim)
+90 212 249 16 48-49
istanbul@tomer.ankara.edu.tr
www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr
Classes of maximum 8-10 people this small
school ofers a very good alternative to the
classical language schools, for a more family-
like learning experience. Equipped with
the latest technology and combined with
the fexible schedule and in-house made
studying material, their method is much more
conversational-oriented compares to the usual
grammar-approach. When you go visit them,
accept the tea and sit on their spacious terrace
with view on Sultanahmet! On Saturday at
DLMER is arguably the most famous of the
stanbul-based language schools and ofers
both four-week (intensive) and eight-week
courses for a wide variety of levels.
Associated with Ankara University, TMER
gives Turkish courses which generally last three
weeks. They have branches across the country-
not just in stanbul- so you can learn some
Turkish no matter where you end up.
TURKE ATOLYES
DLMER Language Teaching Center
TMER
Turkish Language Courses
If youre planning on staying in the country for a while, a Turkish course is a great investment.
Learn how to chat with the locals!
Turkish isnt closely related to Romance or Germanic languages, so you wont get a lot of
freebies unless you speak Persian or Arabic, and the structure might seem strange to you
at first. Fortunately, Turkish is very logical and you dont have to learn a new alphabet. If
you have a few weeks to spare in stanbul, check out the best-of-the-best language schools
listed below and take some lessons which will have you reading and speaking conversational
Turkish in no time!
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Dictionary
157



Hello: Merhaba/Selam
Goodbye (See you): Grrz
Take care: Kendine iyi bak
Good morning: Gnaydn
Good afternoon/Good day: yi gnler
Good evening: yi akamlar
Good night: yi geceler
Yes/No: Evet/Hayr
Please: Ltfen
Thank you/Thanks: Teekkr ederim/Teekkrler
Youre welcome: Bir ey deil/Rica ederim
Excuse me: Afedersiniz/Pardon
Good/Bad: yi/Kt
There is/There isnt: Var/Yok
Do you speak English?: ngilizce konuuyor musunuz?
How much is it?: Ne kadar?/Ka para?
What is your name?: Adnz ne?/sminiz ne?
My name is ______: (Benim) adm________/(Benim) ismim ________
Nice to meet you: Memnun oldum
Nice to meet you too: Ben de memnun oldum
Pronunciation
Pronunciation in Turkish language is fairly simple, since most of the time, the words are pronounced
just like they are written. Although, the language does contain some letters that are special to it.
Here are the examples::
C/c: Like J in Jar /: Like Ch in Church
I/: Like e in Oven J/j: Like the g in Huge
/: Like the u in lurch /S: Like the sh in short
/: Like the ew in mew /: This letter has no sound of its own, but prolongs the
preceding vowel
Basics
Dictionary
Turkish is not an Indo-European language, therefore it does not share that much of vocabulary
with European languages. However, there are many French words that were adopted in the last
century and in most of the touristic places people will understand basic English. Turkish people
are very proud and they love their language. Any effort to express yourself with it will be more
than appreciated and might also be rewarded with further discount or special treatment!
158
Dictionary
Left: Sol Right: Sa Up: Yukar Down: Aa
Straight: Dz Ahead: lerde Behind: Arkada

Directions
Getting Around
Hotel: Otel
Pension: Pansiyon
Campground: Kamping
Is there a free room?: Bo oda var m?
One night: Bir gece
Two nights: ki gece
Is breakfast included?: Kahvalt dahil mi?

Accommodation
What time does the next _______ leave/arrive?: Sonraki _______ ne zaman kalkyor/varyor?
Ferry: Vapur
Bus: Otobs
Shared taxi: Dolmu
One-way/With return: Tek yn/Gidi-dn
Ticket: Bilet
Bus station: Otogar
Taxi stop: Taksi dura
Where is _____?: _____ nerede?
Near/Far: Yakn/Uzak
Can you forward this money?: u paray ne uzatabilir misiniz?
May I get off?: nebilir miyim?
Can you drop me o at the suitable spot?: Msait bir yerde brakabilir misiniz?
1, 2, 3, 4, 5: Bir, iki, , drt, be
6, 7, 8, 9, 10: Alt, yedi, sekiz, dokuz, on
159


Left: Sol Right: Sa Up: Yukar Down: Aa
Straight: Dz Ahead: lerde Behind: Arkada

Directions
Getting Around
Accommodation
Useful expressions

Dictionary
Ayran: Salty yogurt drink
Balk: Fish
Et: Meat
Tavuk: Chiken
Bira: Beer
Brek: Rich pastry
ay: Tea
i kfte: Raw meatballs
Kfte: Meatballs
orba: Soup
Dondurma: Ice cream
Drm: Pita like roll used to wrap food
Dner: Turkish kebab
Elma: Apple
Et: meat (this definition might not include
chicken sometimes)
Fndk: Hazelnuts
Kahve: Coffee
Kokore: Grilled and spicy sheep intestines
Menemen: Omlet-like dish with tomatoes and
various ingredients
Midye: Mussels
Patlcan: Eggplant/Aubergine
Peynir: Cheese
Pide: Turkish pizza-like dish
Rak: Strong alcoholic ansiseed drink
arap: Wine
eftali: Peach
Yumurta: Egg
Zeytin: Olive
Ya: Oil/Fat
Turkish Food & Drink
Kolay gelsin: May it come easy (Said to any person involved in some kind of work)
Elinize salk: Health to your hands (Said to the person who made/created something. Most
often to the cook)
ok yaayn: Bless you (Said to the sneezing person. The reply is: Siz de grn)
Afiyet olsun: Bon appetite/Enjoy your meal
erefe: Cheers
Gemi olsun: Get well soon
Hayrl olsun: Let it serve you well (Said as a compliment to a person who got somethng new)
Hayrl iler: Wishing a rewarding work upon someone
yi anslar: Good luck
yi yolculuklar: Have a nice trip
yi tatiller: Have a nice holiday
Doum gnn kutlu olsun: Happy birthday
Tebrikler: Congratulations
Arranged by Trke Atlyesi
Fourth edition, May 2014
Free distribution
Thanks to everyone who made Hike East
possible, especially to all of the awesome Hike
East partners throughout Turkey and Georgia
who have offered discounts to our readers!
The contents of this guide have been
assembled in good faith and with every
possible attempt at accuracy. We apologize for
any accidental errors contained in its pages.
All rights reserved.
Contact the Hike East team!
Asmalmescit St. No. 29 / 4, Beyolu, stanbul
+90 212 245 09 88
info@hikeast.com
www.hikeast.com
Credits
lker Bayraktar (Project Manager)
Sierra Hunt, Isadora Bilancino (Content Writer)
aatay Apaydn (Graphic Design)
Lityum Ltd. (Web Design)
Special Thank To
Celal Akata
Marion Howa
Julia Kotowski
Cevdet Ouz
Chillout Hostels
Ali R. Aassi
ESN Turkey
OZA
To take the discounts in this
booklet, please make sure
your copy is signed by the
partner you take it or at least
partners name written on the
back cover!
Hke East s your free gude to all the best that
Turkey has to ofer. Trek along some of the
most spectacular long-dstance trals on earth,
check out ancent runs and magnfcent
geologcal formatons, or explore huge and
endlessly fascnatng stanbul. Its all rght
here, ncludng countless dscounts and specal
opportuntes just for readers of Hke East!