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A Stacked 3-Element J-Pole
By Richard Morrow, K5CNF
fter reading the J-pole article written
in an earlier issue for antenneX by
Joel, KB1EG and the experiments run
by Old George, KC5MU, I decided to try
the Stacked J-Pole as an experiment to
see how it would work, using the
measurements that George arrived at
through his many experiments with J-Poles.
I went to a local building supply store and
bought two 10 foot, (3.05m) long 1/2-inch
(1.27cm) diameter hard drawn copper pipes
and nine 90-degree elbows, a T connector
and two pipe caps.
The pipes were cut into three 39-inch
(99.06cm) lengths to make up the vertical
radiators. Then the phasing lines were cut to
lengths of 19.5 inches (49.53cm.). When
cutting these sections, the long sections
were measured with an elbow on one end.
The cut length for the copper pipe was
determined by measuring from the outside
of the elbow to a point 39 inches down the
pipe. I subtracted the length of the elbow
from 39 inches and cut at that point so when
the elbow is soldered to the pipe, the total length will be correct. The top element must have a pipe
cap on it to keep water and bugs out.
Cutting the phasing lines is a little more difficult because the total length of the line must be 39 inches
long including the pipe at the bend at the middle of the line. The 1/4 wavelength matching section was
cut to the 20 inches (50.8cm) length. Spacing from the radiator is 3 inches (7.62cm).
Figure 1 shows the construction of the antenna. The components are color-coded. Red designates the
vertical radiators, light blues represent the 90-degree elbows and dark blue is the phasing lines. The
matching section is green. At the bottom of the antenna, the T-connector is purple and is where the
mast will go. For a mast I will use a 15-foot (4.6m) length of 3/4-inch (1.91cm) diameter copper pipe
that will be driven into the ground about 3 feet (.9m) deep. This should ground the antenna and
eliminate any static build up.
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Figures 2 and 3 show how the measurements should be made.

Now this is one big antenna, in case you have not figured this out by now. So to assemble this
one, at the office I made up the phasing lines first and then went outside to solder them together. I also
added the elbows and the cap to the top radiator and the elbows to all of the other radiators. Next, I
took all of these parts outside and did the final assembly of the antenna on the concrete sidewalk. I
soldered the antenna together with my torch. Now as anyone who has soldered with a torch knows,
when you get the torch adjusted correctly and the solder is flowing well, two things will happen: first,
the wind will die and the torch will instantly overheat the joint and the solder will run all over the
place, or Second, the torch will be blown out. Frustrating! Despite this, the antenna was built on a
windy day which is a normal day in Corpus Christi, Texas USA.

Photo 1 is a picture of the radiator end of phasing line and shows the plastic brace that will be slid up
to the connection to the radiators after the line is soldered into place. This is to give more mechanical
strength to the antenna. Before soldering the line, it is necessary to slide the plastic all the way out to
the joint of the phasing line to prevent melting. After the soldered joints are cool, the brace can be slid
to the proper spot and glued in place with hot glue or some form of RTV sliastic. Painting the antenna
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will prevent corrosion
and if a color gray or
light blue is used, it will
become invisible. Green
will accomplish the
same thing in an area
with lots of trees. I
mention this only if
there is a need to
disguise the antenna.
Photo 2 is the
completed antenna, less
the feed point
connection.
After the photos
were taken, the
antenna was
disassembled and taken
home for testing. I plan
to report about the test
results in the next
month issue for August
2000. My thanks to
Old George for the recipe! I hope Old George will share some more of his many archived files with
us! 30-
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Last modified: December 31, 2010
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