Dhaulagiri (5)

Climbing history[edit]
1954 J. O. M. Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa climb Putha Hiunchuli, first major summit
ascent in the range.
[22]

1955 Dh.II attempted by J. O. M Roberts and others
[23]

1959
1. Pre-monsoon
[24]
and post-monsoon
[25]
reconnaissances of Dh.II by Japanese expeditions.
2. Hangde 6556m in Mukut section attempted.
[26]

1962
1. Churen attempt from north by Japanese Nihon University expedition. Climbed Hangde
(~6600m), Tongu (~6250m), P6265 during approach/acclimation through Hidden Valley;
also Kantokal (~6500m) north of Putha Hiunchili.
[27]

2. Churen and Dh.VI attempt from south by J. O. M. Roberts, thinking he was on Dh.IV due to
inaccurate maps. Climbed a lower peak (6,529m) near Gurja, naming itGhustang after the
stream draining the cirque they climbed in.
[28]

1963
1. Dh.II attempt by Austrian expedition, reaching 7,000m
[29]

2. Dh.III attempt
[30]

1965
1. Japanese expedition to Dh.II delayed two months by heavy snow in approach passes. Lost
two porters to avalanche, then another porter was injured in a fall and needed evacuation.
This left too little food to continue.
[31]

2. J. O. M. Roberts leads British R.A.F. expedition to Dh.VI, still believing it was Dh.IV.
Defeated by late monsoon, then early winter storms creating excessive avalanche risk.
[32]

1969
1. Dh.IV attempt by Austrian Alpine Club. Five Austrians and one Nepali disappear, may have
summited.
[33]

2. Gurja climbed by Japanese expedition.
[34]

3. First authorized ascents of Tukuche 6920m and Tukuche West 6800m.
[35]

1970
1. Japan's Kansai Mountaineering Club unsuccessful on Dh.IV in April but climbed Dh.VI
[36]
and
False Junction Peak.
[37]

2. Korean expedition claims they summited Churen East on April 29. Questioned by same year
Japanese expedition, see next.
3. Japanese expedition climbs Churen Central and Churen West on October 24.
[38]

1971
1. First ascent of Dh.II on May 18 by German expedition.
[39]

2. Dh.IV attempt
[40]

3. Dh.V attempted by pre- and post-monsoon Japanese expeditions. Both ended by fatal
accidents.
[41]

1972 Dh.IV attempted twice by Japanese expeditions. First attempt abandoned when a
climber fell ill and died at 6200m. Second expedition climbed via crest from west, found route too
long at high elevation (7,000m+). Climbed Dh.VI and Junction Peak.
[42]

1973
1. first ascent of Dh.III on October 20 by German expedition.
[43]

2. Dh.IV attempted by Austrians who reached 7250m on N face, then by British who quit after
two deaths.
[44]

1974
1. Dh.IV attempt by British R.A.F. expedition abandoned after three Sherpas killed by falling
ice.
[45]

2. In Mukut section: ascents of Parbat Rinchen 6200m, Parbat Talpari 6248m, West
Himparkhal 6248m, East Himparkhal 6227m, Tashi Kang III 6157m
[46]

1975
1. Dh.IV climbed May 9 by S. Kawazu and E. Yusuda, who died on descent, bringing death toll
on Dh.IV to 14. (Compared with 13 deaths on Mount Everest before it was successfully
climbed in 1953.) Another Japanese expedition in October puts ten on summit without loss
of life.
[47]

2. Dh.V climbed by M. Morioka and Pembu Tsering Sherpa on Japanese expedition.
[48]

1979 Japanese traverse Dh.II, III and V along 7,150m+ crest. Expedition led by a woman.
[49]

2013 First ascent of Hiunchuli Patan (known locally as Sisne or Murkatta Himal). Nepalese
expedition led by Man Bahadur Khatri.
[50]