2 3

STUART ALANBECKER
stuart.becker@gmail.com
W
HEN young boys play
marbles, they choose
only the smooth,
shiny, perfectly round
tamarind seeds with which to play
and they discard any small or odd-
shaped seeds.
But when the rain comes,
Mandalay essayist U Phone points
out, the discarded seed starts to grow.
As time goes by that small odd seed
becomes a beautiful tree in the centre
of the village ofering shade to the
people.
While the big shady tamarind
stands over the village, U Phone says,
nobody remembers that it started
out as a seed that had been discarded
for being too small. But everyone
appreciates it even so, and benets
fromthe way it cools the mind and
body.
Such are U Phones observations
on the value of a self-made life that
challenges convention. Like those
seeds, only in the fullness of time
has he learned both the heavy cost
and high value of being true to ones
self. But he has come to know that
standing out fromthe rest is never
something to shy away from.
U Phone grew up in a big family
with many brothers and sisters. He
was particularly inuenced by a
favorite uncle, who was a thinker and
a chemistry teacher. Following in his
uncles footsteps, U Phone also became
a chemistry teacher.
I had a lot of students and the
opportunity to teach them. I was
happy at rst. Then I realized it
became a burden because it was like
holding a weight.
By way of illustration, U Phone,
sitting across the table holds up a glass
of beer in his hand.
It is like you are holding
something that weighs 2 pounds, a
stone or anything. In the rst few
minutes it is still 2 pounds, but after
you hold it for half an hour it becomes
diferent. It becomes heavier but the
weight never changes. There comes a
time when you have to put it down.
The realisation of this came with
age, as he matured through diferent
periods of his life.
When I was young at college, it
was about love. When I was working,
it was about money. Today it is about
beneting the world.
In order to do what he believed
in while he still had the chance, he
realised he was going to have to stop
teaching chemistry and start writing.
I started reading, and I shared
what I read with my students and
I became less satised talking only
to students. In print I knew I would
reach a larger audience of more people
and that compelled me.
He hasnt abandoned teaching
completely he now conducts a small
class at his home in order to provide
encouragement to students in person
but speeches are temporary and
transient, he says.
When you write it lasts for a long
time.
Since committing himself to the
literary life, U Phone has written 13
collections of essays. All are available
only in Myanmar language, though
translations are a possibility for the
future. His most popular book is called
Near or Far, published by the Lin
Lun Khin Sarpay Publishing House in
Yangon (2004).
In addition to his own volumes,
U Phones work has been published
in journals such as The First Weekly
and The First Music, and he has also
appeared on television and on radio.
Hes married but has no children
except two adopted nieces. Hes
now focussed on a new book: Soul
Tribunal, a collection of 100 essays.
Now I am55. I think I can work
for ten more years. I can work nearly
4000 more days in my life.
U Phone says some dont
understand his decision. People
usually wake up thinking about
making money and go to bed thinking
about making money, he says; very
few are doing what they believe in.
But for himits a simple choice.
Would you rather spend the rest of
your life doing things you dont believe
in or doing things that you believe in?
he asks. I chose the latter. The rst
thing I gave up was a lot of money.
The second was colleagues.
It is clear fromU Phones manner
of speaking that he like those seeds
he belongs to a diferent category than
most. He often answers questions with
parables, illustrating larger meanings
with simple examples to make them
easy to understand.
For instance: I see people as
buttons, he says at one point,
and one if button gets misplaced,
everything is wrong. Like the head of
a society if the leader is in the right
place, everything follows correctly.
Similarly, when explaining the
contributions that writers make to
society, U Phone turns to Mandalays
palace moat to state his case.
Everybody travels and lives around
the moat. But when you ask them, Do
you know of any rich person fromthe
kings time?, they dont know anyone.
When you ask them, Do you know
any writer or poet fromthe period?, of
course they know.
UPhone lists UBoya and A
Choketan Saya Pe as two of the
many important historical poets and
playwrights who have put Mandalay on
the nations literary and cultural map.
Like the nations respect for
these writers, his own commitment
to art has only increased with age.
Meanwhile, the self-awareness his
literary reections have led to has
also brought himto a broader, more
enlightened viewof society.
It would be nice to see a person
as a person and not judged by their
ethnicity, property or education,
whether they are a man or a woman,
Indian, Chinese, Burmese, Thai, Malay
and whatever property or education
they have Once you are able to see
a person as a person, you have inner
peace you have spiritual freedom.
In typical fashion, U Phone chooses
a metaphor to illustrate his point in
this case, the fact that people love
seeing balloons released. Think
like this: It is not just the balloon,
but also the string that is used to tie
the balloons that is released. Giving
freedomto one person would ofer
freedomto you.
So wouldnt that be great?
Balloons are lifeless, theyre just
things, and even we humans applaud.
And how about giving freedomto the
living people: Wouldnt it be great if
they were released? Wouldnt that be
happy?
Staff writers Khin Su Wai, Stuart Alan Becker, Si Thu Lwin,
Phyo Wai Kyaw, Maung Zaw, Mya Kay Khine, Kyaw Ko Ko,
Kyay Mohn Win
Guest editor Stuart Alan Becker
Editors Myo Lwin, Wade Guyitt
Sub editor Mya Kay Khine Soe
Photography Khin Su Wai, Stuart Alan Becker, Si Thu Lwin,
Phyo Wai Kyaw, Maung Zaw, Mya Kay Khine, Kyay Mohn Win,
Aung Htay Hlaing
Cover photo Aung Htay Hlaing
(Shwe Kyaung Gyi Monastery, Mandalay)
Cover design Ko Htway
Page layout Ko Khin Zaw
KHINSUWAI
jasminekhin@gmail.com
T
HE woman was shy, but
at the same time showed
excitement that I had
come round to look at
her beautiful golden embroideries.
The scene she was depicting was
a traditional one: novices, making
their ceremonial rounds. Her own
work is something of a tradition as
well: When I asked how long she had
worked in the shop making golden
embroidery, or shwe chi hto, she
replied it had been 20 years.
Tapestries like these start in
Mandalay shops. But they end up in
senior government buildings, such
as the Presidents Ofce and the
hluttaws, or in the homes of those
who display themproudly. They
are both works of art and symbols
of status and they are a symbol
of Myanmar culture, at home and
abroad.
One well-known tapestry artist,
U Sein Myint, explained the history
of such work. It is originated in
Myanmar about a thousand years
ago, he said, tracing the origins back
to the time of the Bagan dynasty.
While the tapestries resemble
Indias zarbozi, they have unique
ways of depicting characters, making
themdistinct.
Most tapestries show religious
scenes such as Buddhist histories,
nats, or the binding ties between
parents and children.
Such tapestries, which are framed
and hung on walls, cost between
K5000 to K50,000, with larger or
more elaborate pieces costing much,
much more. Some even request
customworks.
We are now sewing the tapestries
for a noviciation ceremony for a
wealthy family in Myawaddy, he said.
Some works end up still further
away. U Sein Myint has just nished
depictions of four of the most worthy
pilgramage sites, and the result will
be sent to a monastery in Moscow.
Flat panels are not the only
artworks made. Clothing for
traditional puppets is one use for
such embroidery. Clothing for
noviciations is another.
Originally shwe chi hto clothing
was reserved for royals. The earliest
recorded instances date to 800AD,
when Chinese chronicles describe the
costumes worn by Pyu-era artists and
musicians visiting China on a cultural
mission.
Another noteworthy example is a
wall frieze in Bagans Ananda Pagoda,
which depicts a scene fromthe birth
of the Buddha, and clearly shows his
mother wearing gold embroidery of
the same sort made today.
Daw Kyi Kyi Mar, of Daw Kont
Shwe Chi Hto, says her ancestors
served the royal family when they
lived in Mandalay. Her forebears were
responsible for the kings crown, a
crested headdress, and she inherited
the shwe chi hto art fromthem.
Today she sells and rents clothing
for noviciation ceremonies. Prices
depend on the elaborateness of the
sash, she says, but most are rented
rather than bought.
At the time of her ancestors, when
Mandalay served as the royal capital,
trade was further opened up to the
West and East, and shwe chi hto
technique become more advanced,
sometimes incorporating materials
imported fromthe West.
But the exile of King Thibaw and
the royal family created a shortage,
and consequently increased demand
in the subsequent decades.
So long as young boys and girls
follow Buddhist customand become
novices, U Sein Myint said, they will
wear shwe chi hto and the art will be
preserved.
But U Sein Myint started his shwe
chi hto business in 1985 and has been
around long enough to know that
mass product in recent years has led
to lower standards of quality. He says
there are only about ve businesses
left which do shwe chi hto properly.
He should know: One of his wall
hangings has been presented to the
UN by the Myanmar government and
now hangs in the UN building in New
York.
Whether enough dedicated artists
will remain to continue to export
Myanmars ne traditions in future is
uncertain.
Tapestry
The vast potential of
odd-shaped seeds
Do what you believe in and other insights from Mandalay writer U Phone
When you write it
lasts for a long time. Works in progress at U Sein Myint Art Gallery, 62nd Street; at left, Daw Moe Moe, U Sein Myints daughter. Photos: Khin Su Wai
Photo: Si Thu Lwin
JUST north of Mandalay, Monywa
serves as a hub for up-country
commerce, and much of the dealing,
at least for agriculture, takes place in
one building.
The Brokers, Merchants and
Millers of Mahar Bonkahtain
Association of Monywa, also known
as the Monywa Wholesale Commodity
Exchange Centre, is headquartered
in Monywas south ward, between
Bogyoke and Pyidaungsu streets near
a bus station compound. Here traders
buy and sell edible oil crops from
across Upper Myanmar, providing a
boost to the local economy.
Established in 1970, the association
began as a place for trading locally
grown crops. Later an executive was
established, and the body occupied its
present permanent ofce in 1990.
Today the centre sees average
transactions of around 120,000
tonnes of crops per year.
Monywa Wholesale Commodity
Exchange Centre is run on a non-
prot basis for crop transactions,
says chair U Thein Oo,with the
good intention of helping the towns
business activity to ourish and
establishing it as a well-organised
commercial hub.
U Thein Oo says every day sees
transactions of commodities brought
down to Monywa to be traded from
Sagaing and Magwe regions and Chin
State, with wheat, edible oil crops,
and beans and pulses most common.
Business is normally good in
harvest time fromJanuary to August,
says U Thein Oo. Prices are xed
based on the needs of the locale, in
line with other wholesale commodity
exchange centres in nearby cities.
The association has around 580
members, including more than 150
merchants, up to 240 wholesale
owners and brokers, and more than
180 millers. Elections of executive
members are held once every two
years.
The association also participates
in annual Kahtain robe-ofering
ceremonies, and has ofered food at
Monywas Su Taung Pyae Pagoda over
20 times. Members also band together
to support one another in occasions
of joy or grief, and to provide relief to
those afected by natural disaster.
Si Thu Lwin, translation by Zar Zar Soe
MONYWA
Trading centre brings prot Trading centre brings prot
PHYO WAI KYAW
pwkyaw@gmail.com
BOOMING Mandalay is nally
getting places worth shopping
in. Residents appetites for retail
therapy were rst whetted by
Zaygyodaw (since renovated),
Skywalk mall (which burned down in
2008), and 78 Centre (which closed
a few years back), but replacements
have been long in coming.
Until now. Yadanarbone Diamond
Plaza, launched in2011 onthe site of the
former Yadanarbone market, ofers an
Oceansuper-market, cinema, jewellery
show-rooms, cofee bars, restaurants,
beauty salons and fashionshops, and
brings inthe crowds withits attractive
architecture and interior and exterior
decor.
And Mingalar Mandalay, located
on 73
rd
Street in Chan Mya Tharsi
township, includes not only shops but
also ve-star hotels, condominiums
and detached houses.
The 47-acre project, started
in September 2012, was built
by CAD and New Star Light, in
collaboration with Mandalay City
Development Committee, connecting
the developing new town with the
established downtown and drawing
customers fromboth.
This project will change the
Mandalay lifestyle, said U Zin Min
Swe, managing director of CAD.
Bangkok and Singapore have their
night-life, and now we will have ours.
We plan to develop a night market
and three 3D cinemas in December.
Fashion, household goods and a food
court are also included in the project.
He added Ocean Super Center,
with its innovative design, will attract
customers with cofee bars, restaurants,
boutiques and shops.
And for those who fear Mandalays
trafc is heading in the same
direction as Yangons nowhere fast
Mingalar Mandalays ve-story car
park can accommodate hundreds
of vehicles as they watch the
entertainment in Art Platformand
Mingalar Mandalay Square.
Developers also plan a 350-
roomve-star hotel, an ofce tower,
condominiums and detached houses.
Translation by Thiri Min Htun
Shoppers converge on the full moon day of Thadingyut (October 8).
Photo: Phyo Wai Kyaw
Best spots
to shop
Photos: Stuart Alan Becker
Photo: Si Thu Lwin
For feedback and enquiries, please contact wadeguyitt@gmail.com, myolwin286@gmail.com
4 5
STUART ALANBECKER
stuart.becker@gmail.com
I
TS one day before the
full-moon celebration of
Thadingyut, and walking
into the pagoda compound
in Kyaukse, at the base of a hill
crowned with golden spires, you see
pairs of men on stage or rather,
you dont see them, for they are
concealed inside colourful elephant
costumes, and are imitating the
movements of the great amd noble
animals in an uncanny manner as
they circle the stage three times.
Motivated by the playful gymnasts
inside, a few of these brilliantly
decorated elephants rear up for
acrobatic stage dances. They stand on
hind legs, heads rotating side to side,
trunks swinging in the air.
The scene delights the locals, for
whomit never gets old, and thrills the
visitors as well, both those who have
come fromelsewhere in the country
and the smattering of foreigners from
abroad.
Unlike some festivals, the Kyaukse
Elephant Donation Festival is not a
wild or boozy event. This is a family
afair, where the whole town comes
out parents, children, older relatives
and everyone takes pride in and
enjoys the sights together.
For the performers, though, it
isnt only fun and games. There
are 57 groups competing in three
diferent categories: traditional
elephants, sequined elephants
and childrens elephants. Theyre
competing for prizes of up to
K5,000,000, for best elephant
and best performance, and their
composure and discipline in the
early morning sun is remarkable.
Every year on the day before
Thadingyut, in the seventh month
of the traditional calendar, people
converge on Kyaukse, a town about
an hours drive south of Mandalay
on the old highway to Yangon. They
watch the performers put on the
elephant dance, which happens in
precise sequence and requires both
people inside the costume to act in
perfect concert.
The following day, on the full
moon day, thousands of pilgrims
carry small paper elephants 900
feet (275 metres) uphill to the
pagoda on top of the Tha Lyaung
Mountain. They often dance or play
musical instruments. At the top,
they walk around the pagoda three
times clockwise and present their
donations.
As well as being an act of
Buddhist reverence, the oferings
commemorate the reign of King
Anawrahta, who started the tradition
by instructing his followers to ofer
food on the full moon day during the
month of Tabaung.
According to the story, King
Anawrahta sent a replica of one of the
Buddhas teeth on a white elephant.
The elephant climbed a number of
mountains and where it stopped
Kyaukses Tha Lyaung was built
Shwe Tha Lyaung Pagoda. The
elephant festival has been keeping
this memory alive ever since.
As one local teenager said, We
always have a wonderful time during
the festival, with the elephants
dancing. This festival makes the
people very happy and they dont
have to go to school and they dont
have to go to work. Every child of
Kyaukse loves the elephant dance.
Indeed, the day of play and
imagination seemed to have left all
the festivals visitors in a good mood
not even the mammoth-sized trafc
jamthat resulted as they headed back
to Mandalay seemed to cause themto
forget the fun theyd had.
Where elephants dance
KHINSUWAI
jasminekhin@gmail.com
F
OR a city with so much
history, its sometimes
surprising to remember that
Mandalay was only founded
in 1857. Before Mandalay took the
name Mandalay from Mandalay Hill,
in the early years of its existence the
city was ofcially called Yadanabon.
One event already established back
in those days drew visitors from
as far away as Thailand, and this
festival continues to give character to
the modern city today.
The festival is named the Thae
Pone Pagoda Festival, or in full the
Maha War Lu Ka Thae Pone Pagoda
Festival. It honours the Maha War Lu
Ka pagoda but this isnt the sort of
pagoda youd expect. In fact, its built
with sand (thae means sand; pone
means piling up).
Though not as grand as the Kyaut
Taw Gyi Pagoda Festival held at the
foot of the Mandalay Hill, the Thae
Pone Pagoda festival has its own
important history.
The story goes like this: When the
King of Innwa, Shin Pyu Min, defeated
the regions of Thailand in 1767 AD
(or 1129 in the Myanmar calendar),
the king of Thailand and his relatives
and followers were brought back to
Myanmar as prisoners. The Thais were
settled in diferent places according
to their social classes: royals in Min
Tharsu ward, advisers in Mont Tisu,
retinue in two other places.
Over time, as they settled in their
new homes, a spread of Thai heritage
resulted .
The Myanmar king approved
their request to build sand pagodas,
explained U Khin Mg Kyuu, chair
of the Mont Tisu Pagoda board of
trustees. They used their sand
[brought fromThailand] mixed with
local sand to build the sand pagodas
in the customof Buddhist worship.
In Mandalay, there were once four
thae pone festivals, but now there are
only two, because Dar Tan and Pale
Ngwe Yaung pagodas are now made
of brick.
Mont Tisu still follows the old
ways, says patron U Sein Kyi, 66.
After the full moon day of
Tabaung, we take back the umbrella
crown, so it is no longer a pagoda.
On the eigth day of Kasone, we start
to distribute water to the pagoda
compound that will cause the sand
pagoda to become softer so it is easier
to disassemble. And every 13th
day of
Kasone, we rebuild our sand pagoda
in a single day, said U Sein Kyi.
Every year, we rebuild the
pagoda, said U Myo Swe, trustee for
Min Tharsu. Sometimes we need to
buy new sand, but mostly we dont
need it.
U Sein Kyi, who remembers the
year of the pagodas 200
th
anniversary,
said residents made extra donations
that year, and also compiled a history
of the pagoda with the help of a
famous historian, U Mg Mg Tin (MA).
So does sand make for good
pagoda-building? Oil added to the
sand keeps it sticky and makes it
more consistent. And there are some
advantages to using such a malleable
medium, U Sein Kyi said.
When we depicted the Arnanda
[giant] sh that circles round the
bottom terraces, he said, we made
its skin wrongly. Later we amended
it. That was not hard, because it is
sand.
But some say that the skills of the
new generation of sand artists are not
as good as those of the olden days.
Nowthe generation cant make
the bargeboards of ogre decorations on
the pagoda, nor the sh, said UKhin
Mg Kyuu. If the art does not meet the
standards of the original art, it will
make pilgrims laugh. Thats why we
dont put this art on the pagoda.
Following tradition, only men
build the pagoda, while women take
a supporting role. The exercise is
believed to bring good merit. And
the festival involves many traditional
foods made by residents.
It is very enjoyable. For the past
ve years, we have provided the
participants with Thai mont ti, said
U Khin Mg Kyuu, whose grandfather
and father both served as chair for
the festival in their days.
Myanmar mont ti, he added,
evolved fromthe Thai snack and now
Mandalays version is especially good.
Just like the pagoda itself, the
traditions of thae pone pagodas are a
little bit Thai, a little bit Myanmar
and likely quite the opposite of what
Shin Pyu Min anticipated back when
he conquered his enemies.
Pagodas made of sand
How an ancient war between Myanmar and Thailand
led to a peaceful festival tradition
MYA KAY KHINE
mya.simpley@gmail.com
WHENEVER visitors travel to
Mandalay, theres one thing friends
and relatives are sure to ask them to
bring back: thanakha. The trees from
which thanakha paste is produced
grow best in tropical zones, and
the dry climate in the area around
Mandalay is well-suited for
producing the cosmetic traditionally
worn to keep cool in the hot season.
Pakokku and Shwebo were once
famous for thanakha, says U Kyaw
Win, who sells lengths of the cuttings
at Mandalays Mahamyatmuni
Pagoda. But their plants are being
renewed now. Currently, Ayadaw,
situated in east Monywa in Sagaing
Region, is best.
Traditionally thanakha trees arent
trimmed until the age of 35. But now
some are trimmed young, even at ve
or 10 years, because they are grown
more quickly using chemical fertiliser.
The younger cuttings, though, bring
less yield: If 50 years ago six inches
of thanakha could last two months
with twice-daily applications, now the
same length may last a month at best,
even if only applied once a day.
Ground against a stone, the bark
and wood of thanakha releases a
pasty uid, either white or brown-
coloured. Spread on the skin, both
types are trumpeted by those who use
themas being able to produce lighter,
smoother skin, and prevent and even
cure, heat-related skin problems.
Some say that a face smeared
consistently for 40 years will always
look more youthful than a face
treated with other cosmetics instead.
Thanakha in its raw form is
sorted into three categories to be
sold: third (normal), second (better)
and rst (best). Lengths of the best
plants can be worth over K15000
each, while second-class can fetch
K8000-K10,000. The normal category
goes for K2000 to K10,000 for a 18-
inch (46-centimetre) length.
When I visited Mandalay in 2012, I
found it a thanakha haven, with many
places to shop, fromZay Cho market
to Mahamyatmuni Pagoda.
But my friend advised me that
the cheapest and best place was in
Sagaing, 10 miles (16 kilometres) away
and specically on the platformof
KaunghmudawPagoda. NowI nd
thats the only thanakha I prefer.
During pagoda festivals and other
periods of high demand, I sell nearly
K1,000,000 worth a day, and during a
normal period I sell K300,000, said
May Thet Oo, owner of Silver Moon
Thanakha shop, one of 35 thanakha
shops around Kaunghmudaw Pagoda.
There are over 70 other kinds
of shops, but thanakha vendors are
particularly common here, especially
on the north stairway. May Thet Oo
says visitors may come and buy a few
sticks for themselves and their friends,
but that the majority of their business
comes wholesale, meaning the pagoda
grounds have become a favourite spot
for area vendors to stock up.
We built these shops and have
allowed themto sell on the at
ground around the pagoda since
three years ago, said U Than Saung
of the pagoda administration. Rent
costs only K2000 a month, so prot
margins are high.
If youre shopping for thanakha,
remember that the best segments
are straight, with no irregularities on
the surfaces. Curved lengths cant be
ground properly, leading to waste.
Check also to see if the length gives
of a sweet smell on the cut surface.
If it is not fragrant, it means it is a
young plant, and the surface can peel
and wont last as long.
Mandalay make-up
The face of Myanmar is thanakha, and some
of the best is on sale just outside the royal city
AS well as beauty, jade ofers
considerable possibility for return on
investment. After all, in what other
industry could you get started with a
mere K100,000? And possibly turn a
prot on your very rst day?
In 2012, a friend of mine who is
not a jade trader had K2 million and
bought some bracelet-shape jade,
recalls experienced Mandalay jade
broker U Myo Lwin.
He had to spend K1.8 million
for the precious stones. Three days
later, a customer fromChina bought
themfromhim, paying K2.3 million.
That is exactly what we call luck!
Even experienced jade traders
usually dont earn K500,000 in
just a couple of days, U Myo Lwin
added. On the other hand, such
sudden gains are a sign of a volatile
industry, and the same factors that
allow unexpected prots can bring
unexpected losses.
The jade pieces being bought
and sold at the Mandalay market
can be broken down into ve
categories: nished products
(jewellery); raw stones; bracelets;
beads; and carvings. The rst three
categories require a more substantial
investment. But beads and carved
sculptures are generally priced lower,
and make a good starting point for
those looking to enter the trade.
Rosary-bead-shaped jade is a
low-risk bet for most, who later
move up to blossom- and plate-
shaped pieces.
As with any business, though,
its not just a matter of having
the right stock. Success with jade
requires social skills, cleverness
and luck a rare combination.
Jade deals usually involve
three parties: a buyer, a seller and
a broker as intermediary. Some
brokers, however, have their own
prots rst in mind, U Myo Lwin
said. Fortunately it has been a
long time since he has heard of
any egregious swindles in which
brokers were found to be lying to
the buyer, the seller or both, though
it has happened in the past.
Jade means big money, and
Mandalay is well-situated to
capitalise on it, especially given
Myanmars resources and the
citys easy proximity to China,
where eager buyers wait. (Gold is
valuable, jade is priceless, goes one
Chinese saying).
That philosophy is a boon
for Myanmar: A 2013 report
by Harvards Ash Centre for
Democratic Governance and
Innovation estimated 2011 output
at around $7.8 billion though
at least $3.4 of that was through
unauthorised channels.
Total trade at the Mandalay
market alone reaches around K100
million a day, estimates Ko Gu Gu,
a trader though the days when
buyers from China are in town
there are heaps of cash everywhere.
When stone traders fromChina
come to buy, this [average] amount
can be much higher, Ko Gu Gu says.
Dividing these spoils are
brokers, jade crafters, jade rms
and young apprentices who are
learning the trade. Ko Gu Gu said
there are also a few businesspeople
handling large trades who no
longer come to the market but
work out of their residences.
One lesson Ko Gu Gu has learned
is that traders of an ethnic Chinese
background are willing to hold on
to stones longer, while Myanmar
traders who he says have fewer
nancial resources are more often
looking for a faster ip.
They often sell the stones as
soon as they are ofered a higher
price than what they bought at.
They do not give prot enough
time to grow, Ko Gu Gu says.
One student of jade, Ko Myo
Min, said the life-changing
possibilities are why he is taking
up this career. The quickest way
to riches here is through the jade
business, he says, adding that luck
does play a role but that jade is
still the best bet for bringing great
change in life. It attracted me to
jump in and swim in this ocean of
the jade business.
Translation by Lun Min Mang
Visiting Mandalays jade market, MTs
Maung Zaw fnds auspicious possibilities
Every child of
Kyaukse loves the
elephant dance.
They used their
sand mixed with
local sand to build
the sand pagodas.
Look behind you! A child gets caught up in the action in Kyaukse.
Photo: Stuart Alan Becker
Traders at Mandalays jade market compare wares. Photo: Maung Zaw
Men cook food for donating, Mont Tisu ward, 85th St, Mandalay. Photo: Khin Su Wai
Photo: Khin Su Wai
Thanakha is big business at Kaunghmudaw Pagoda in Sagaing Region, 16 kilometres from Mandalay. Photo: Mya Kay Khine
KYAUKSE
Photo: Stuart Alan Becker
KAUNGHMUDAW
Your road to Mandalay
MMIDs Myotha Industrial Park (MIP) and
Semeikhon Port (SMP) begin to attract investors
STUART ALANBECKER
W
hen you drive toward the airport from Mandalay, about
three-quarters of the way you take a right turn at the
roundabout near Tada U, and proceed southeast on
Highway 18 to the town of Myotha, which has been
growing since the project has been under development. Past Myotha
about 7 miles (11 kilometres) is the entrance to the Mandalay Myotha
Industrial Park, where workers are busy on the stonework gate that marks
the entry to the 11,000-acre site that covers a total of 45 square kilometres.
Managing director Dr Tun Tun Aung, the third son of well-known
Mandalay businessman U Aung Win Khaing, receives visitors from
around the world at the sites showroom where a detailed model of the
development shows the construction works both planned and under way.
Mandalay Myotha Industrial Development Public Company Ltd. (MMID) is the
Myanmar public company developing the Myotha Industrial Park (MIP) and
the Semeikhon Port (SMP).
MMID Project Director Bruce Reynolds said MMID selected fallow land that
would, most likely, never have otherwise been developed.
One of our major goals for the project is to help alleviate poverty within the
Mandalay Region, Reynolds said. Our three key projects the industrial park,
the port link road and the port facility will be the catalysts that will jumpstart
development in the Myotha area. MMID is very condent about that.
Reynolds, 62, who has spent the last 23 years managing projects in Southeast
Asia, China and the Middle East, says people in his profession dont often get a
chance to work on a project of this scale.
More importantly, we are doing something that can change the lives of local
people in a positive manner. I amvery appreciative for this opportunity.
Reynolds said companies which are interested in Myanmar but not yet pre-
pared to make a long-termcommitment will have the option of renting ready-
made factories and warehouses.
Natural logistics hub
MMIDFACTFILE
. MMIDis a Myanmar Public Company with more than 1200 shareholders
including farmers and other local residents
. 11,000-acre, 45-sq-kmsite development 36 miles fromMandalay and
28 miles fromMandalay Internationa Airport
. Linked to Ayeyarwady River with 200-foot-wide port link road
. 380-acre Semeikhon Port Facility is located 13.6 miles fromMyotha
Industrial Park
. 1500metres of jetty at SemeikhonPort master plancompletedJanuary 2014
. General Cargo Ramp and set-down area scheduled to be operational rst
quarter 2015
. Full investment privileges fromMyanmar Investment Commission (MIC)
available to clients
. 18-hole golf course and master-planned housing estate on 1700 acres
. 8000-yard championship golf course developed by American Schmidt-
Curley Design
. Golf courseconstructionstartedMay18, 2014, scheduledforcompletionDec2015
Chairman U Aung Win Khaing (left) shares a laugh with Project Director
Bruce Reynolds (right) and I.T. Manager KyawNaing Oo
MMID Managing Director Dr Tun Tun Aung
Myotha Industrial Park: Artists concept
The port link road that connects the industrial park with the Semeikhon port
Entrance to the Myotha Industrial Park (MIP)
For more information please visit our website at www.mmidproject.com
Sponsored advertising section
Your road to Mandalay
MMIDs Myotha Industrial Park (MIP) and
Semeikhon Port (SMP) begin to attract investors
Leading a tour of the site, project director Bruce Reynolds explained that
U Aung Win Khaing and his family saw the potential for a signicant
industrial development near Mandalay several years ago and engaged in
conversations with the Mandalay Region Government for a suitable site.
Those conversations led to a joint-venture agreement whereby MMID
became the master developer and the Mandalay Region Government
provided the property for the industrial park.
As of October 2014, MMID has constructed buildings, warehouses, a
central visitor centre plus staf quarters and a canteen, along with a river
port link road, signicant works on the river port facility as well as design
on a championship golf course, as an increasing number of international
visitors and potential investors from Japan, Korea, Thailand, India,
Singapore and China continue to visit the site.
The golf course
One of the inspired features of the Myotha Industrial Park is the 18-hole golf
course that has been under construction since May 2014 with American designers
Schmidt-Curley.
The golf course begins and ends at a clubhouse compound, also under
construction. Pleased with Schmidt-Curleys work, MMID managers retained the
rm to carry out the master plan for the housing estate which is scheduled for
completion before the end of November 2014.
The integration of the golf course into the entire development constitutes a
recognition that international factory owners often enjoy the game of golf, as well
as the fact that the presence of the golf course enhances the attractiveness of the
adjacent housing estate and provides recreation for the residents.
The person in charge of construction of the golf course, which is currently well
under way, is American Blayne Hull of Green Dynasty, who seems to be enjoying
the work of building an entire brand-new golf course on the rolling landscape on
the edges of the Ayeyarwady River valley.
SEMEIKHONPORT
Located 13.6 kilometres (8.45 miles) fromthe Myotha Industrial Park
Located on a 380-acre port site with a 1500-metre jetty
Fully master-planned site capable of processing general cargo, roll-on/
roll-of (RORO)
Capable of handling containers and bulk materials
Areas provided for liquid bulk storage facilities
The Myotha National Golf Club
Myotha Industrial Park (MIP) and Semeikhon Port (SMP): A logistics hub within Mandalay Region
For more information please visit our website at www.mmidproject.com
The general cargo ramp at Semeikhon Port (SMP)
The general set-down area at Semeikhon Port (SMP)
Sponsored advertising section
8 9
W
HEN
Renato Buhlmann
rst came to Myanmar,
it was to work in the kitchen at
Yangons famous Strand Hotel. Since
then, hes participated in a number
of culinary ventures. Fortunately for
those in Mandalay, the latest of these
is Bistro@82
nd
, which opened in the
city centre on August 1.
Buhlmann was born in the Italian
part of Switzerland but grew up in the
northeast region where his father was
in the agriculture business.
He never liked school but was
drawn to the kitchen, partly because
his mother was a good cook. Soon
he realised his love of cuisine could
translate into an exciting career.
I was interested in foreign
products like sh and meats and I
knew I would be able to travel the
world with that profession, he said.
At age 16, Buhlmann served a
culinary apprenticeship at the Schai
Wangi in Thurgau, Switzerland. At a
small hotel, with a small staf, he learned
the importance of timing and efciency.
We hadtobe responsible andwe had
tobe able todoseveral things at once.
Later he worked as a commis
chef in the kitchen at a place
called Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz in
Switzerland. That position led to other
opportunities in 5-star hotels around
Europe and in Hawaii, and nally
brought hima job in Bangkok as
executive sous chef at Swissotel.
It was The Aman Group that hired
himto work at The Strand in Yangon
in 1994 when he was 28. Hes proud to
have been part of the culinary scene
here since his arrival, having founded
the Myanmar Chefs Association
together with a few other key chefs.
We had to do a bit of pioneering
work back then in the mid-1990s. It
was very challenging to get up to
international standards.
One break came when, instead of
having to bring in whole containers
of imported food, he found a source
of good fresh meats in Yangon. I was
very lucky, he said.
Since then, Buhlmann has seen an
evolution in outlook among his local
culinary peers.
When I asked people if they had a
ve-year goal in the early days, no one
could answer. Now young people have
goals which is good to see.
After ve years in Yangon
and several stints elsewhere
including Jackson Hole,
Wyoming, and Marrakech, Morocco
he has been drawn back to Southeast
Asia.
These days, in partnership with a
few others, he is busy with a company
called Culinary and Co, which he
describes as a service and consulting
company, mainly in hospitality and
food service.
Bistro@82nd
is part of that, he
says. We have a local partner here in
Mandalay. My business partner Chad
Van Den Hoek and myself are involved
in the operation as long as we are
needed.
To get to Bistro@82
nd
, Buhlmann
says the best way fromthe city centre
is to go straight west on 26
th
Street,
adjacent to the Palace Moat, until
you hit 82
nd
. Then take a left, heading
south on 82
nd
until you nd it on your
left, between 30
th
and 31
st
streets.
Since opening August 1, Buhlmann
says the business has been 95 percent
Mandalay residents.
He describes the fare as European
comfort food and says the overriding
philosophy is that people need to
be happy. Thats all you need. They
should be satised and they may come
again.
During our lunch, Chef Nyunt
Win served a grilled pork steak with
trufe-scented mashed potato, glazed
vegetables and garnished with a char-
broiled milk curd.
Despite the sophisticated dishes,
Bistro@82
nd
is not a stufy place.
People come in shirts and shorts.
This is an easy casual meeting place
for food and glass of good wine,
uncomplicated, with good honest
service and food. This is somewhere
you feel comfortable.
So why Mandalay? Buhlmann
compared it to its neighbouring
second city, Chiang Mai in Thailand:
strong on culture, light on congestion.
Theres a lot to see. You have the
palace moat, you have Sagaing and
all kinds of things nearby that are
fantastic to wander through and the
trafc is still better than Yangon.
On the menu...
KYAY MOHNWIN
kyaymonewin@gmail.com
My Caf
Food Express
78
th
Street, near rail station
7am-10pm
Red Chilli Restaurant
58
th
Street, between 27
th
and 28
th

9am-10pm
Daung Lan Gyi
Myanmar traditional
restaurant
68
th
Street, between33
rd
and34
th
Caf JJ
73
rd
Street,
between32
nd
and33
rd
9:30amto 10pm
A hot spot for fast food, with fried chicken, burgers and fries as well as a coffee
selection and ice creammade fromreal fruit. The building also features SP Bakery,
so people who like bread and cake will be delighted. If Europeans not to your tastes,
the sour-spicey fried rice and tomyumnoodle are also recommended. Open breakfast
through dinner, and you can also call for delivery if you fancy a quiet night in.
For a spacious family dining experience, seek out Red Chilli, as the frey dishes
go down perfectly in the cool weather. Chinese and the usual fried rice offerings
are available, but for a special crowdpleaser try a sakaw meal, served on a large
bamboo tray with enough food for six or eight people.
The pwe taw sar (kings lunch) makes Daung Lan Gyi restaurants reputation. Decorations
and service here is all lacquerware, making the meal a rewarding visual experience.
Popular with locals and foreigners, its also a good option if you dont like your food
tasting rich the range of traditional salads use little oil. Arrive early to get your favourite
dishes, as the shop is always busy.
Credited with introducing coffee culture to Mandalay, Caf JJ opened in 2004 on 73
rd

Street, and now has a second location, formerly on 78
th
Street and now at corner of 65
th

and 26
th
streets. In spite of the move, devoted customers have followed, so it is clear that
the chain gives good service and a quality menu to match. The Wi-Fi is free.
Koffee Korner
27
th
and 70
th
streets
Perfect for people who like European food but arent sticklers for proper English spelling.
As the name suggests, this is a place to get your fx of expensive strong coffee. But you
can also dine in as well: Word has it the mutton and beef options are particularly popular
amongst foreigners, and the fsh has a good reputation as well as does the free Wi-Fi.
Suzuki Drink and
Thai Food
76
th
Street
If you always wanted to try ear, tongue and intestine but were rightly scared of doing so
while sitting on a plastic stool on the street, this is the place for you. Thai steamed pork,
similar to Myanmar pork-on-a-stick, is the most popular choice, but theres also no need
for everyone to be in the mood for skewers as Suzuki offers a range of other Thai options
as well as Eastern and Western dishes. You can get a private roomfor family and friends
if you want to escape the crowd noise (or make lots of your own).
Photos by Kyay Mohn Win, translation by Thae Thae Htwe
With the curfew lifted and cool season upon us at last, theres no time like the present to get out and enjoy what
the city is serving up. Here is a taster of what Mandalay has on offer right now
KYAW KO KO
THE mighty Ayeyarwady may ow
southward past Mandalay, but
that other mighty current that
of foreign investment seems so
far to be avoiding the royal city.
While Mandalay has seen a boom
in tourism commensurate with
numbers nationwide, hoteliers
say the vast majority of foreign
investment in the hospitality
industry is being routed to other
year-round draws, such as Yangon,
Nay Pyi Taw or tourist-draw Inle.
Many hotels in Yangon are
run by foreign investors but most
hotels in Mandalay are operated by
local entrepreneurs, said Ko Latt,
general manager of Dingar Hotel in
Mandalay.
Yangon has sustainable growth
in tourist number throughout the
year compared with Mandalay
where the only hopes are for peak
season. Thats why foreign investors
have been more interested in
Yangons hospitality market.
Nonetheless, the surge in
visitors to Mandalay means hotel-
room prices have risen accordingly,
and to counter the trend of some
visitors being disappointed with
the value theyre getting, since the
beginning of 2013 some Mandalay
hotels have been trying out unique
services such as entertaining
customers with traditional music,
dance and marionette shows to
enhance the stay and attract still
more foreign tourists.
Foreigners, especially French
and German, are delighted to
receive a reception of cultural
traditions. For example, when a
group of foreign visitors arrives
at the hotel, our staf give a
welcome with traditional musical
instruments such as oh-si [an
open-ended drum with a long
body] and doe-pat [short drum],
Ko Latt said.
They are very pleased with
it, though we dont need a lot of
efort for it. It is a kind of customer
service as well as a preservation of
cultural traditions, he added.
While pushing for better service,
the industry also nds itself
seeking out more trained staf due
to rapid expansion.
Dr Yin Mon Maung Maung,
managing director of newcomer
Night Sweet Hotel, says it has
properly arranged to ofer good
services for customers.
In terms of hospitality, we have
to provide customers with superior
services like international hotels.
Thats why Night Sweet Hotel
is working its strengths. We will
continue to manage the hotel
ofering superior accommodation
and food with traditional
entertainments.
Some hotels are playing
up traditional interior design
features and staf uniforms to set
themselves apart from the more
generic-looking internationally
backed hospitality behemoths
which are setting up elsewhere.
We want our hotel to be
diferent from others, said a
spokesperson from Bagan King
Hotel. If we visit other countries,
wed like to know about their
cultures. So we constructed our
hotel with traditional design
features as an introduction to our
cultural traditions.
Bagan King Hotel promises
good service and friendly staf
dressed in traditional outts,
and also is planning to provide
traditional entertainment to guests
in future.
Translation by Zar Zar Soe
Homegrown hospitality
European
comfort
food
downtown
Photo: Stuart Alan Becker
STUART ALAN BECKER
Foreigners are
delighted to receive
a reception of
cultural traditions.
10 11
Lewe
Pyinmana
Nay Pyi Taw
Tatkon
Yamethin
Pyawbwe
Thazi
Meiktila
Wundwin
Mahlaing
Kyaukpadaung
Chauk
Seikphyu
Bagan
Ngathayouk
Nyaung-U
Pakokku
Taungtha
Natogyi Myittha
Kyaukse
Sintgaing
Myitnge
PyinOoLwin
Mandalay
Madaya
Singu
Kyauk
Myaung
Thabeikkyin
Mogok
Takaung
Amarapura
Ngazun
Myinmu
Myaung
Sagaing
Myingyan
ACCORDING to Kurt Brueschweiler,
general manager of The Hotel @
Tharabar Gate, the best way to
approach Bagan is to go out and
get lost among the old Buddhist
monuments.
The career Swiss hotelier says
Bagan also serves as the gateway
to the Chin Mountains, including
Mount Victoria, the third-highest
mountain in Myanmar. He says the
trip to the mountains is well worth
it, to see the huge pine trees, wild
orchids, the wild Guar a sort of
water bufalo and most notably the
Chin women sporting facial tattoos.
But the biggest attractions in
the area, of course, are right here.
For a glimpse of Bagans grandeur,
Brueschweiler recommends a climb
to the top of one of the temples
or, if youve got the budget for it,
a US$350, 45-minute balloon ride.
That works out to a hefty $7.70 per
minute, but the memories stay with
you ever after, he says.
Ive done it twice and it is
denitely on a bucket list of things to
do once in a lifetime, he said. One
lady customer said she was afraid of
heights and complained that it was
so expensive, but when she came
back smiling, she said it was worth
every cent.
The best time is sunrise or sunset
and the high season is from October
to March. Brueschweiler estimates
Bagan saw more than 250,000
visitors during 2013, and more than
16,000 of these took the opportunity
to y high for an aerial view of
the scene with one of the three
companies now ofering balloon
rides in Bagan.
While foreigners visit Bagan to
experience that deep feeling of wonder
in the worlds most astonishing
riverside plain of Buddhist temples,
many Myanmar people have another
agenda, looking to worship as well
as sightsee, and often visit more
recent temples as well as Mount Popa,
Brueschweiler says.
The average visitor stays in Bagan
in three to four nights, he says.
Usually people will go for a half-
day excursion up to Mount Popa and
get the feel of the land. The visitors
enjoy buying the lacquerware from
the local market and the laid-back
villages. This is a dry area and thats
why it is so good for lacquerware.
Brueschweiler recommends
coming in January for the Ananda
Pagoda Festival. Last year he
witnessed 1300 monks lined up to
receive alms from the villages of the
surrounding area with common
prayers for a good harvest.
Under the jurisdiction of the
Ministry of Culture, Bagan is
currently served by about 70 hotels
and guest houses, along with 50 new
projects under way to cater to the
growing visitor numbers.
People are coming to Bagan
to experience a diferent lifestyle,
Brueschweiler says. Besides the
4000 temples, people experience
the land and the country. In ve
minutes you can be in a local village
of bamboo huts.
While local people ride around
on gasoline-powered motorcycles,
visitors are allowed to rent electric
bikes. Be warned, though they have
a habit of running out of juice at
inopportune moments, so dont stray
too far of the beaten path.
If youre staying at The Hotel @
Tharabar Gate, of course, you may
nd you dont even need to leave the
hotel to enjoy yourself. Brueshweiler
says care has been taken to have
the rooms reect Bagans charm:
Simple but tastefully done. Hes
also proud of the hotels bakery
which produces about 300 croissants
per day during the high season.
We have wood-red pizza, Asian
food and a great bakery even with
sourdough bread.
As well as great pizzas, the pizza
oven serves up something else:
evidence that some things remain
constant in Bagan, even after a
thousand years: When Brueschweiler
needed a brick pizza oven for the
hotel, local bricklayers made one for
him beautifully, from scratch, in a
smooth dome shape.
Stuart Alan Becker
STUART ALAN BECKER
T
ODAY Bagan seems shrouded
in the past, but at one time its
40 square miles (104 square
kilometres) was a thriving
cosmopolitan centre for religious and
secular learning, with monks coming from
India, Sri Lanka and the Khmer Empire of
what is today Cambodia.
Bagan was founded in the latter part of
the 9
th
century and ourished over the next
few centuries, which reportedly saw the
construction of more than 10,000 religious
sites, out of which there were at least
1000 stupas and 3000 monasteries. The
religiosity of Bagan rolled in from the earlier
Pyu culture, encompassing Theravada
Buddhism, Mahayana Buddhistm, Tantric
Buddhism and various Hindu schools along
with local native or nat animist traditions.
The Bagan kingdom collapsed in
1287, however, as the result of repeated
Mongol invasions, although it has yet to be
determined whether Mongol armies actually
ever reached Bagan itself. At its peak it
numbered as many as 200,000 people before
being replaced by the rise of the Myinsaing
kingdom.
By the 15
th
century, the citys temples
had begun to fall into disrepair, and the city
became a pilgrimage site.
In the Konbaung period (1752-1885),
a series of renovations took place, some
of them reputed to be less than tasteful
compared to the original constructions built
600 or 700 years earlier.
Times efects are hastened by the fact that
Bagan is located in an earthquake zone. The
area has experienced more than 400 recorded
seismic events between 1904 and 1975, the
year of the most recent major earthquake.
On July 8, many temples were damaged in a
severe quake, which caused great damage to
the Bupaya Pagoda especially.
Eforts made by the Tatmadaw during
the 1990s to repair the temples and
promote them as a tourist destination
backred, however, drawing international
criticism. Some experts alleged not
enough attention was paid to original
architectural styles and that too many
modern materials were used in the
repairs, making for more garish, less
authentic restorations. It is these repairs
which have hindered eforts to have the
area designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site.
The efort to turn Bagan into a tourist
site has paid of, however though really,
how could you miss? With attractions like
these, its no wonder Bagan is among the
countrys top destinations, and considered a
must-see for rst-time visitors.
During my own forays around Bagan on
an e-bike, I found the place wonderful in
its peace and tranquility a place to let the
imagination work overtime about must have
transpired during the long-ago ages when
the great monuments to Buddhism were
being built and this place was the seat of a
thriving kingdom.
Highly recommended for foreigners and
locals alike, Bagan is easy to access, by air,
bus or along the mighty Ayeyarwady from
nearby Mandalay.
STUART ALANBECKER
stuart.becker@gmail.com
I
T was 5:30am when we all met
in the lobby of the Irrawaddy
River Hotel, right on the
Strand, Mandalays busy and
sometimes confusing waterfront
area that stretches for several
kilometres.
According to reconnaissance
conducted by my visitor-associates
the previous day, the Gawwein Jetty
fromwhich the RV Shwe Keinnery
was scheduled to disembark was
within easy walking distance of the
hotel, so six of us lumbered down
the waterfront road past the bustling
morning activity.
After hoong more than a
kilometre one of our group found
a taxi driver washing his car. We
all crammed in and he took us the
remaining 800 metres to the jetty.
Right on time at 6:30, the MV
Shwe Keinnery pulled away and
spun around in the current and
before we knew it we were in the
dining area with cofee, tea, eggs
and toast. Sagaings golden pagoda
towers came into view, and we
passed under the triple-arched
Sagaing Bridge before we had even
nished our breakfast.
An hour or two downriver we
swung alongside a village where two
women threw bananas onboard and
then hollered for K1000 and K2000
to be thrown back. One passenger
who caught the tossed bananas was
unable or unwilling to toss down
some folded banknotes in return,
and was roundly scolded by the
ladies who grimaced and gestured,
fromknee-deep in the Ayeyarwady.
With the rmgesture of an
extended index nger, one of
the women verbally recruited a
deckhand on-board to retrieve
money fromthe banana-catching
passenger who was none too
impressed with the exchange.
They threw up the bananas, I
caught themand they started asking
for money, he said. It would be
like going to a grocery store and
somebody putting things into your
hand and then demanding that you
pay for it.
After that brief altercation we
carried on comfortably, motoring
down the wide, light-brown river
with the ships bow ag rippling in
the wind. Trees and villages came to
life on both sides of us: The passing
scenes of people and livestock gave
an authenticity to the vastness of the
Ayeyarwady River Valley. We could
easily imagine boats of antiquity
moving up and down the river for
various purposes.
The north-south Ayeyarwady
the Irrawaddy, in former days has
played a key role in the countrys
history. Fromthe headwaters near
Myitkyina to the delta below Yangon
in the south, it has always been used
as a main artery for invasions, life
and commercial activities during the
thousands of years since humans
rst inhabited this area.
A trip down the river that
denes the heart of Myanmar, from
the cultural headquarters of
Mandalay to Bagan, city of
thousands of Buddhist
pagodas, is entirely
appropriate for
somebody who seeks
to stab at the essence
of this still-unfolding national
story.
At the same time, the
splendours of the past also
got me thinking about what is to
come. It was clear that whatever
is going to happen in Myanmar is
already happening fast. The inux of
tourists including those who had
braved the chaos along the Mandalay
waterfront for this Monday morning
late-September passage will bring
enough cash that local people
can aford to build new, desirable
facilities. There will be ever higher
standards, ever newer vehicles
and vessels, ever more variety in
restaurants, hotels and attractions.
Fromour viewpoint, the past
seemed only a bend behind us,
while the inevitable future was just
ahead, unlimited in scope, wide and
everlasting as the river itself.
As we oated along, the foreigners
stretched out and slept on deck chairs
and cabin seats on the three levels
of the vessel. Some read books while
others played on computers. In the
dining roomladies served cofee and
drinks to followbreakfast.
By the early afternoon, following
a nap of my own across three of the
enclosed lower deck seats, I was
pleased to nd a noodle, vegetable
and egg lunch being ofered in the
dining room, my favorite place to be
up front, with the window partially
open, hair tossed by the breeze in
the sun.
In dramatic fashion, with the
light reecting of the choppy brown
river, the clifside pagodas of Bagan
come into view in late afternoon, as
more and more passengers began to
join me in the bow for a better look.
Then we arrived: The boat
swung up along the waterfront and
taxi drivers crowded the plank to
meet us as we disembarked.
With the Ayeyarwady behind us,
we prepared ourselves for a new
landscape: the spread-out environs
of Bagan.
In one way, however, they
werent so diferent: Both forced
us to reconcile the real past the
stirring resonance of thousands of
monuments to Buddhist worship left
behind fromhundreds of years ago
fromwhat has only recently been
plastered on in a poorly designed
attempt at restoration.
But just like the Ayeyarwady, we
found we had to accept Baganas it
came, not just as a museumto the past
but as a monument to moderntimes
as well.
After negotiating a ride straight to
The Hotel @Tharabar Gate, we soon
found ourselves making anunexpected
but apparently compulsory stop.
Surrounded by booksellers hawking
pirated copies of George Orwells
Burmese Days, we like all foreigners
who come here to sample Bagans
majesties found ourselves coughing
up $15, or K15,000, as anarrival fee to
enter the zone. After all, if the banana
comes to you, youhave to catchit.
Mandalay to
Bagan down the Ayeyarwady
The splendours of the past also got me
thinking about what is to come.
History calling
Bagan for
beginners
BAGAN
Better
& better
A PILOT project by the Myanmar
Hotelier Association aims to
create a special Bagan Zone of
cooperation to benet visitors, says
the general manager of one of the
participating hotels.
U Ohn Thwin, general manager
of Amazing Bagan Resort a 66-
roomboutique hotel with adjacent
golf course said the program
grouped Bagan hoteliers into an
association with the idea of making
a master plan for tourismin Bagan.
Nowin its nal stages and soon
to be sent to the president and
parliament for approval, the plan
was organised by the Myanmar
Minister for Hotels and Tourismand
is also supported by JICA, Japan
International Co-operation Agency.
It will also help those in the tourist
industry speak with one voice.
After that, Bagan is going to get
better and better, U Ohn Thwin said.
Located off the beaten path on
the airport side and approached by
tree-covered rural roads, Amazing
Bagan Resort attracts primarily
European visitors, U Ohn Thwin said,
who account for 95 percent of the
hotels business during peak season
fromNovember to February.
We get a lot of French people,
Spanish, Italians, Germans and
people fromthe United Kingdom.
One drawfor visitors is the golf
course, which lets visitors tee off less
than 100 metres fromthe hotel.
But thats not why U Ohn Thwin
loves working here so much. Though
he has worked in several different
hotels around the country, he says
Bagan is special.
Bagan is our heart. We can all
take pride as Myanmar people in
protecting Bagan.
While the standard roomrate
is $75 a night at Amazing Bagan
Resort, visitors can often get lower
prices by using such services as
Agoda.com. In addition to the golf
course, Amazing Bagan resort has
an extensive massage facility, a
swimming pool, a large outdoor
breakfast area and an evening
dining room.
It also boasts helpful staff. When
my own stay was cut short abruptly
by an urgent call to Yangon, the
staff purchased an air ticket on my
behalf and then, to help me get the
most out of the fewhours I had left
to explore, ordered an electronic
bike so I could see as much of the
surroundings as I could.
U Ohn Thwin said Amazing
Bagan Resort won a Trip Advisor
hotel excellence award in 2014,
as well as an award fromHoliday
Check in Europe.
With the hospitality industry
booming in Bagan, many hotels are
nding staff retention a problem. Not
so for Amazing, though.
U Ohn Thwin says the hotel
provides nancial support to staff
who are getting married or who
experience family tragedies.
There is no need for themto
pay back this money, he said.
Corporate Social Responsibility is
very important to us. We donate
to hospitals and have helped fund
road construction.
Stuart Alan Becker
Photos: Stuart Alan Becker
Photo: Aung Htay Hlaing
Photo: Stuart Alan Becker
Kurt Brueschweiler. Photo: Stuart Alan Becker
12
Above, workers pluck lotus petals on Sunyegyi Lake in Mandalay; at left, monks walk past Kuthodaw
Pagoda, Mandalay; below, a man herds ducks beneath U Bein Bridge at Amarapura township, near Mandalay.
Photos: Aung Htay Hlaing
Focus on: Moments of stillness