As with our bathroom project, we believe in realism and although we didn't have a specific

contract to carry out this operation, we have made up a circuit board, using the actual fittings,
for you to view. Our project shows 2 wall lights added, but the same circuit can be used for an
additional ceiling light switched independently.

You will need:

1 x 20 amp junction box (3 terminal)

1 x 20amp junction box (4 terminal)
1 x 1 way switch
1 x single pattress box with grommet.
1.5mm cable to suit. (click, and see rules)
Earth sleeve........Red tape
Cable clips..........Screws
Wall conduit for 1.5mm cable.
We have used 20amp junction boxes to allow more room.

STEP 1. (Do not cut or remove any cables or wires

without first turning your power off and removing the fuse
from the circuit you are working on. If working with "trip
switches" put a large note on the consumer unit. You may
have turned the power off and be in the loft, when an
unknowing family member thinks the lights have tripped and
flicks the switch..!)
Think carefully about the position of your new light/s and
mark the wall, make your holes and chases, and all new
connections before making the final connections to the
existing circuit. That way you can keep the lights on as long
as possible.

(Click on any image to see a bigger picture)

Trace a lighting cable from the light point nearest to the position of your new light/s. (do not
disconnect or cut anything yet) You need a cable that does not go to a switch. Make sure you
have enough slack on your chosen cable to insert a junction box and be able to fix it securely
to a joist or rafter. You may have to insert a timber "noggin" to achieve this fixing. You need to
work out where this position is, in relation to the position you will install your new cables

according to the circuit you choose.

For this example you will need to mark the wall for your switch, and both wall lights. Make a
hole large enough in the wall to accept the switch box (pattress), mark and chase a slot in the
wall wide enough to accept your cable and its conduit container. Take this chase up the wall
to the ceiling and make a hole in the ceiling at the back of the chase. (when the chase is filled
you will not see the hole).
Make the same chase and hole for the wires to the wall lights.
Take out a "blanking piece" from the pattress box and insert a rubber grommet to stop the
cable chafing the metal.

Connect the box securely to the wall using the holes provided. Take a length of 1.5mm cable
and run it from the cable you have identified earlier, through the hole in the ceiling and down
to a) switch b) both wall lights. Allow sufficient cable for your connections at each end.

Thread the lower end of these cables into suitable

conduit, so the top end of the conduit just goes through
your ceiling or floor and the bottom end finishes at the end
of the chase. Fix this conduit to the back of the chase. We
have used cable clips in this diagram, but you could use
anything that will not rust to hold them in place until you
have plastered.
Now strip the switch wires, connecting the earth to the
earthing point in the pattress box, the red to the top terminal
of the switch, and the black, after applying a piece of red
tape, to the bottom terminal. Screw the switch plate on the
pattress box.
Connect your wall lights to manufacturers instructions.

Now we will be working on the level above, if you are in the loft, rig yourself up a suitable lead
light which you will be able to plug into an ordinary socket. This will still work when you switch
of the lighting circuit. It is as well to do this now to avoid too many trips up and down. Turn off
the power and remove the fuse.
Strip the ends of both wall light cables and fix them into a 4 terminal, 15amp junction box.
Leave an end terminal free and join both lives (red) in the other end terminal, then both
earths, then both neutrals (black). The earth wire will need a small piece of earth sleeving
over it. Fix this junction box securely to a joist or rafter.

Take a length of cable and strip the wires

from both ends, join the red (live) to the spare
terminal you have left in the first junction box.
The earth and neutral go to join the other
earths and neutrals in that same box. The
other end of this cable will go to the existing
circuit in a moment. Now take the end of the
switch wire and strip. Join the red to the single
red in what was the spare terminal, and the
black (after applying a piece of red tape), to
the other reds from your wall lights. This off
course means that both the black and red
wires to the switch are live, and you have
interrupted the live flow with the switch, which
when on, will complete the circuit.
[Left] Line drawing of circuitry photo 2.

The top right cable is the one which will go to the existing. Top left is a wall light cable. Bottom
left goes to the switch. Bottom right to the second wall light.

Now its time to connect up. Make absolutely sure your

lighting circuit is dead and cut the cable you first identified.
Strip the ends of all the wires, apply earthing sleeves and
join them up again in the junction box, while at the same
time including the wires from the cable in between the two
junction boxes. Red to red, black to black and earth to
earth. Keep the earth wires in one of the middle terminals
and the red and black as far apart as possible in the far two
terminals.
Top cables are existing, cut and joined. Bottom cable goes to second junction box.
Your complete circuit should look like this...only a bit more spread out !

The blue shaded area is your loft, or floor void, W = wall-lights & S = switch.
Now run through each connection, check it, fit the covers on junction boxes, insert the fuse
and switch on.
Complete the plaster-work before making a live connection, and make sure it is dry before
you do. Or check everything is working then turn it all off again to do the plasterwork waiting
until dry to turn on again.