EsqBBB Aut Wint 2014

THE ESQUIRE BIG BLACK BOOK AUTUMN/WINTER 2014
THE STYLE MANUAL FOR SUCCESSFUL MEN
AN ITP LIFESTYLE PUBLICATION
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OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION.

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BY MASERATI.
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TO MASTER AN ART WITH PASSION, INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION, THIS IS MASERATI. EVER SINCE ITS FIRST INCARNATION,
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Kuwait, Al Zayani Trading Co.: 1808010 Ext. 111
KSA Jeddah, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 02 6835148
KSA Riyadh, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 01 4664748
Lebanon, G.A. Bazerji & Sons LLC.: 01 263111
Oman, Alfardan Motors LLC.: 024 523014
Qatar, Alfardan Sports Motors Co. S.O.C.: 044 208788
UAE Abu Dhabi, Premier Motors: 02 4935000
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T h i s Wa y I n
68
THE REALITY OF
G O O D TA S T E
How to take this seasons
runway looks into real life
18 THE ALMANAC
Everything you need know about whats new this season
29 THE ANNIVERSARIES
Dsquared2 and Lanvin Homme celebrate milestones this season
3 6 S O L E S WA P
What happens when you get Dubais coolest kids to swap their sneakers
for posh high tops?
4 0 T H E R E T U R N O F R AY
How John Ray is giving Dunhill a new lease of life
44 MAKE IT A DOUBLE
You will want these Zegna double-monk straps
2 8 S P OT L I G H T
45 GENTLEMANS CLUB
Dior Hommes Kris Van Assche has made spots cool.
Dont believe us? See for yourself.
10
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B I G B L AC K B O O K
Why gentlemen need to know about Tods exclusive JP club
BBB
T h i s Wa y I n
52 BRITISH END UP
46
B E YO N D B E S P O K E
Dolce & Gabbana launches its first
bespoke atlier for menswear
Esquire talks to quintessential British designer,

Jeremy Hackett
5 6 FA M I LY T R A D I T I O N
Craftsmanship handed down the generations
makes shoe brand Santoni a family affair
5 8 N O T E S A N D E S S AY S
Style thoughts and fashion musings from the
literary world
6 4 ST E E L YO U R S E L F
This seasons most desirable watch
66 THE RAG & B ONE MEN

Marcus Wainwright and David Nevilles brand is
currently making a stylish scene
84 SUITS AND TIES

Take note of two of the most important wardrobe
pieces to be investing in right now
124 CHERISHABLE GOODS

The bags, shoes and accessories thatll stick with
you for years to come
134 PICKNMIX
Update your wardrobe by mixing up your suits
with colourful accessories
94 T H E A / W C O L L ECT I O N S
What will you be wearing this season?
We have all the most important collections covered.
ESQUIRE
11
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T h i s Wa y I n
67
ET E R N A L
CLASSIC
No other bag has the staying power
of Tods Double Stripe bag
135 SCENT OF WINTER

The fashionable fragrances to invest in this season
136 THE NEW OUD

Comme des Garons Wonderoud will have you hooked
1 3 7 P L AY T H E F I E L D
These sporty scents are top of the scoring board
1 3 8 C U T T H R O AT
The prickly world of the disposable razor
144 MAKING A SPL ASH

Watches thatll love the water as much as you do
1 5 2 D I R ECTO RY
31 T H E A RC H I V I STS
The crew keeping fashions biggest houses in order
12
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1 5 4 T H I S WAY O U T
Burberry looks to Dubai for inspiration this season
BBB
T h i s Wa y I n
MIDDLE EAST
ITP LIFESTYLE PUBLISHING
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PO Box 500024, Dubai, UAE.
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DEPUTY EDITOR MATT POMROY
GROUP ART DIRECTOR CATE WARDE
STYLE EDITOR KATE HAZELL
ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDDIE TAYLOR
DIGITAL EDITOR TOM NORTON
CONTRIBUTORS
CHRIS ANDERSON, MALIHA BARI, MARTIN BECK,
DREW JONES, ELIZABETH STANLEY
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Contributors
words of wisdom
This way In
E D I T O R S L ETT E R
Winter is coming
UTUMN/WINTER, when living in a
warm Middle Eastern climate, can be
a tricky season for anyone who is
conscious about style choices. While the shops
are loaded with shiny leather jackets, thick,
sturdy sweaters and stiff woollen overcoats,
the ever-sunny weather can make us hesitant
to step out of our summer threads, let alone
embrace knitwear. To be honest, it feels like a
party that were just not invited to. We lack the
more pronounced seasonal changes that most of
the world benefits from; the change from very
hot to quite hot makes it hard for us to know
when to hang up those Havaianas.
But dont let that beating sun get the better
of you, because your wardrobe most likely still
needs an update. Its time to soup-up your style;
polish up your polo. This time of year really is
the best time to embrace your stylish side and
try out a few new looks. Sure, you cant layer up
overcoat, scarf, knitwear and shirt as they get to
do in London or New York. But at the same time,
embracing a winter wardrobe doesnt have to
leave you in a sweaty mess if you do it carefully.
And the following pages will tell you exactly how
it could be done.
Before you read on, here are a few tips to ease
you in. Layering a fine knit over a collared tee
will add instant smartness. Unless youre
travelling abroad (if thats the case, then you
need to know about Tods JP Club, on page 45,
and Dolce & Gabbanas Sartoria atelier, on page
46) dont waste your money on a heavy coat.
Instead, invest in a lightweight bomber jacket,
which, if anything, will serve much like a
cardigan casually thrown over a tee. Choose
textured accessories, like a crochet tie, to add
warmth to your wardrobe without adding heat.
Weve got some great ones on page 134.
So dont wait to feel a chill to refresh your
look. This issue marks the beginning of our
autumn/winter 2014 sojourn, and youre most
certainly invited to join us as we bravely step
into those balmy winter evenings. Lightweight
scarf: optional extra.
CHRIS ANDERSON
A London-based freelance writer and
former Dubai resident, Chris went to Italy
to explore the luxury brand Santoni. Learn
more about the accessories brand on
page 56. The best style advice I have ever
received? Never underestimate the power
of the pocket square it bestows instant
smartness to any outfit.
MARTIN BECK
EFRAIM EVIDOR
Filipino photographer Efraim captured the
majority of the still-life shoots in this issue,
including this seasons essential print from
Dior Homme on page 28. His weekend
wardrobe? You cant go wrong with a pair
of Dockers and a Lacoste polo.
16
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P H O T O G R A P H Y : EFRAIM EVIDOR
Scottish/South African photographer Martin

Beck captured some of Dubais urban
trailblazers in Sole Swap on page 36. I dont
necessarily follow trends; I just buy and wear
what I like, he says. But its always black
and usually from Diesel.
KATE HAZELL
STYLE EDITOR
BBB
The Essentials
COMPILED BY KATE HAZELL
TRAVEL IN STYLE
TripAdvisor is great, if you want to know what
everyone else in the world likes do to on their annual
holiday. But for those who have a more refined
palate when they travel, Louis Vuittons City Guides
really do dig out the cool and eclectic itinerary
essentials. This month, the French fashion house
is expanding its collection of travel guides for the
worlds urban explorers by adding Berlin, Istanbul,
Milan, Rio de Janeiro, Singapore and Shanghai to
the set. If youre looking for offbeat hideouts, cool
corner cafs, gourmet delis or even antique markets,
these pocket-sized tomes will make sure you have
every cool spot covered while youre away from
home. L O U I S V U I T T O N . C O M
Bottega
Veneta
A/W14
Not-so-brief encounter
Since the arrival of John Ray at Dunhill (for
more on him see page 50), the British fashion
brand has been enjoying something of a
revival. And when we say revival, what we
really mean is that Ray has been digging deep
into the archives to produce contemporary
classics that are being quickly snapped up by
fashions most dapper of gentlemen. Take the
Bourbon briefcase, an unstructured take on
the traditional briefcase with multiple interior
compartments and stainless steel hardware.
Available in bi-colour or block colour
(pictured above), each bag is constructed
from durable Italian cowhide and combines
complete functionality with a relaxed
aesthetic to business leather.
D U N H I L L .C O M
18
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Louis
Vuitton
A/W14
GONE HIKING
From Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton climbing across the Andes, or Dolce & Gabbana being
inspired by technicalmountaingear of the adventurers tacklingSicilianvolcano Etna, this
A/W14 season is all about outdoor adventure, making the hiking boot one of footwears
most fashionable choices. If youre still a little unsure of the rubber-soled practical boots,
Bottega Veneta has designed a classic take on the hiking gear (above right), giving the
boot a dapper make over in hand-stained rich leather. These can even be worn with a
wool suit, should your office be accessible only via across mountain terrain.
Dhs3,500, Dolce & Gabbana ( below left); Dhs3,562, Dsquared2 ( below right)
The Essentials
BBB
Blazer, Dhs2,750,
CH Carolina
Herrera; pink sock,
Dhs265, Alexander
McQueen; Green
sock, Dhs35, COS
THE PRINT
CH Carolina
Herrera
A/W14
This seasons designers have been inspired by Scotlands national

pattern, so embrace the traditional print in whatever way you like.
Want to incorporate it into your workwear wardrobe? Then stick
to a neutral-hued tartan, like this blazer from CH Carolina Herrera,
or a navy and black check thrown over black trousers and a white
cotton shirt. Too bold for you? Then just slip on a pair of brightly
coloured tartan socks, and youll be safe in the knowledge that
youre right on trend albeit in a more subtle fashion.
A r e t u r n to
t h e g lo ry days
While eclectic designer
Jeremy Scottshowcased
hisMoschinomenswear in
London in January, his debut
collection for the brand has now
arrived in stores. Brought in as
the new creative director to
revive the popular 90s brand,
Scott has certainly injected
his own sense of fun into the
Italian brand for A/W14. But for
anyone who remembers and
is nostalgic about Moschinos
glory days, fear not as Scott
has incorporated the brands
signature use of black and gold
into a range of urban streetinspired menswear, as well as
a handful of wearable denim
pieces into this debut collection
for the US designer.
Moschino is at The Dubai Mall,
+971 4 339 8079
THE NEW COLOUR

While navy and black have
had their fair amount of time
in the spotlight, take a hint
from the A/W14 runways
and consider camel (the
shade, not the animal) as a
suitable hue for the office
this season. Italo Zucchelli at
Calvin Klein sent down an army

of models in urban workwear
on his autumn runway, using
modern fabrics on the masculine
ideal, which work perfectly in
our sandy environs. Choose luxe,
wool or highly technical fabrics
(were not talking cotton chinos
here), and consider layering

different shades with a rich
camel-leather bomber to
finish (Louis Vuitton has a
great suede bomber in stores
this season). At the very least,
it makes a nice alternative to
the navy suit.
ESQUIRE
19
The Essentials
THE ALMANAC
C
Art work
You know those porcelain figurines your nan probably
ably has
on her shelves at home? Well, you probably didntt think
they could be cool, did you? Well we would have shared
hared
hat is.
your scepticism, until Paul Smith got involved, that
Lladro, known for making artistic stuff with porcelain,
elain,
has invited Paul Smith to design its sixth Guest series,
eries,
giving fashionable life to the collectable characters.
ters.
The British designer, famous for his use of bright colour,
dition
has stamped his character onto a pair of limited edition
cat and dog figurines and scattered them with confetti,
nfetti,
making them some of the more fashionable pieces you
could pop onto your mantelpiece.
Only 250 available

worldwide, Dhs10,879
(large), Dhs3,269 (small),
paulsmith.com
Lanvin Homme A/W14
FACE OFF
As Lanvin celebrates its 125 year anniversary this year, creative
director Lucas Ossendrijver has designed a range of jackets,
sweatshirts and tees with surrealist prints this season, much
like the faceless sculptures that the brands A/W14 show was
staged around at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in January. Using
two-dimensional satin appliques that are sewn on by hand, the
menswear designer has created graphics reminiscent of Matisse
or Picasso, but very much for 2014. Apparently Alber Elbaz,
creative director on the womenswear side, gave Ossendrijver
a hand designing each look to reflect the personality of each
runway model wearing the piece. The result is one of this
seasons most recognisable collections that is just on the right
side of novelty. Lanvin Homme is at The Dubai Mall, +971 4 330 8008
S H O ES : T H E S E A R C H S TO PS H E R E
If you havent heard of Cecilia Bringheli, then you should probably commit her name to memory, as the young Italian designer has pretty much
got your shoe collection covered. Bringheli launched her accessories label C.B Made in Italy in 2010 with the simple goal of producing the best
handmade, durable shoes money could buy. Fusing traditional Italian knowledge with contemporary technologies, Bringheli sticks to classic shapes
like the brogue, monk-strap, and Chelsea boot, producing them in tobacco suede, vintage brown leather and polished calfskin, but also reinterprets
them in every colour and material imaginable, just in case youre feeling a little adventurous with your next loafer purchase.
Available at Level Shoe District, The Dubai Mall, +971 4 501 6888
20
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The Essentials
BBB
EAST MEETS WEST

3.1 Phillip Lims Autumn/
Winter 2014 menswear runway
collection is now available in
the Middle East exclusively at
Bloomingdales Dubai. The US
designer, who is of Chinese
descent but grew up on the
West Coast, often designs his
collections around Western
archetypes like surfers or easyriders, and this season hes
turned to cowboys to tell his
story. Quite literally. Sweatshirts
and tees with a print of horseriding cowboys are highlights,
while jodhpur-cut leather lounge
pants and shirt-jackets in leather
and jersey also exude the spirit
of the West in wearable forms.
And now, for the first time, the
collection, which was shown in
Paris back in January, is now on
Dubais shelves.
Bloomingdales Dubai, The Dubai Mall,
+971 4 350 5333.
IN WITH THE NEW
The Capsule collection is available in

Loewe stores from this month, Loewe is
at The Dubai Mall, +971 4 3253754
REGIONAL FOCUS
Dubais own fashion week,
Fashion Forward, returns for
its fourth season this month,
running October 4 to 6 at
The Madinat Jumeirah. While
the showcase of regional
talent focuses primarily on
womenswear, UAE-born
menswear label The Emperor
1688, which recently won the
prestigious regional menswear

finals of the coveted International
Woolmark Prize (above), and
Velsvoir, launched by Dubai- and
London-based brothers Zac,
Zubair and Talha Timol in 2012,
will each be showcasing their
latest collections. It will be worth
going along to see why Esquire
loves both these brands so much.
fashionforward.ae
British designer Jonathan

Anderson has designed his first
collection for Loewe, arriving
in stores at the beginning of this
month. The Pre-Launch Capsule
collection shows how the 29-year
old has injected life into the
Spanish fashion house, which
was founded in 1846, after taking
over from Stuart Vevers last year.
Anderson, who also runs his
own JW Anderson label, has
produced a precise edit of bags,
accessories, menswear and home
items (think luxurious leather
cushions, lambswool blankets,
and a wood-and-leather chair
updated from the archives), all
reflecting the history of the brand
with a modern touch.
Our top pick? The houses
Amazona and Flamenco bags
have been revived, proving that
the simplicity and functionality of
the iconic unisex style is still very
much relevant today. If money is
no object, opt for the Flamenco in
croc (above left). Its Dhs136,975.
ESQUIRE
21
BBB
The Almanac
THE ALMANAC
M O ST WA N T E D
CHINOS
JEANS
CORDS
Cotton trousers (Dhs585) by Tommy

Hilfiger; leather jacket (Dhs5,858)
by Billy Reid; cotton chambray shirt
(Dhs323) by Bonobos; leather boots
(Dhs1,709) by Grenson.
Cotton jeans (Dhs1,085) by Rag & Bone;

wool jacket (Dhs1,818) by Bonobos;
leather shoes (Dhs6,060) by John Lobb.
Cotton corduroy trousers (Dhs470)

by Bonobos; wool sweater (Dhs294)
by J. Crew; suede shoes (Dhs515) by
Vince Camuto.
RESTOCK THE
OL PANTS DRAWER
ASSESS EXISTING INVENTORY. UPGRADE ACCORDINGLY
For chinos: There was a time when you had to
choose between a pair that fitted well and a
pair that was comfortable to wear. Today you
can just look for a pair with a little elastane or
polyurethane woven with the cotton. Theres
plenty of give without any bagginess.
For jeans: For all the fits and finishes available
in stores large and small, best to keep things
simple: Straight leg, medium blue, no logos, no

distressing. For now, forever.
For cords: Pick a bold colour any bold colour.
No cloth does more with colour than corduroy,
mostly because the wales allow for depth and
variegation that you cant get with a flat weave.
Just remember that the louder you go, the more
you should tone down the rest of your outfit.
Take a chance
You dont need to be

a celebrity to pull off
the all-button, no-tie
look. But you do need
to be comfortable
being the centre of
attention, because
people will notice and
they will comment and
youll have to enjoy it.
Otherwise, whats
the point?
22
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To celebrate 20 years in the

UAE, Emporio Armani Watches
has launched a special edition
timepiece especially for the
region. Only 300 numbered
pieces, which feature a bespoke
dial inspired by the UAE national
flag, have been produced (each
serial number is engraved on
the back of the case), making it a
collectors item for years to come.
Dhs2,000, available at
Emporio Armani, The Dubai Mall
The Almanac
BBB
PICK A BOMBER (ANY BOMBER)

Zip-up fronts, banded collars, elastic waist yup, these are
bomber jackets, and this autumn, the airmans staple is being
reinvented. The cut is flattering and the possibilities endless.
WOOL
Ovadia & Sons
Dhs4,799
CONSIDER THE SILK SCARF

Not an ascot. Not a cravat. Not
even a muffler. Its a silk scarf,
and its the best substitute for
a necktie or a pocket square
weve seen in a while. To avoid
any Thurston Howell III and/
or town crier cracks, choose a
dark colour with a subtle pattern
(like, say, polka dots) and

drape it around your neck
untied, so it hangs under
your lapels lending a subtle
update to your look. Silk scarf
(Dhs1,565), two-button wool
suit (Dhs4,756), and cotton shirt
(Dhs1,010) by Burberry London.
COTTON
McQ
Dhs3,830
CALLING ALL
COLLECTORS
Christies will be holding Dubais
biggest ever watch auction on
October 22 at Jumeirah Emirates
Towers. Over 150 timepieces
from the likes of Rolex, Cartier,
Corum and Harry Winston,
will go under the hammer, with
over Dhs8 million expected to
be raised by days end. Patek
Philippe is celebrating its 175th
anniversary in November, and
will also be showcasing iconic
timepieces, which will then go for
auction in Geneva next month.
The highlight? Save your dirhams
for one of the first ever Rolexes
with a date indicator the Oyster
Perpetual Datejust, designed
in 1945. The sale includes an
example from this series (left) in
18-carat gold, diamond-set and
with a green enamel dial, going
for an estimated Dhs55,000 to
Dhs91,000.
LEATHER
Reiss
Dhs2,555
SUEDE
Gant Rugger
Dhs4,958
NYLON
CH Carolina
Herrera,
Dhs1,675
christies.com
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23
BBB
The Almanac
BLAZER GLORY
MAKE LIKE THE ETERNAL DAPPER GENT, FRED ASTAIRE,
IN ONE OF THE NEW BREED OF BLAZERS
P H OTO S : T E R R Y O N E I L L /G E T T Y I A M G E S. E D I T E D B Y T E O VA N D E R B R O E K E .
Mr Fred Astaire looking

just as dapper at 82
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The Almanac
OR MANY YEARS, double-breasted

tailoring was the preserve of the
corpulent and the unfeasibly rich.
Perhaps they saw all the extra fabric
as signifying their wealth, or
perhaps the shrouding nature of a properly tailored,
double-breasted jacket would conceal their stomachs.
Either way, over the past few seasons, doublebreasted tailoring has worked its way back into
contemporary style. For A/W 14, Kim Jones at Louis
Vuitton layered perfectly tailored, double-breasted
jackets beneath parkas and voluminous overcoats,
Brunello Cucinelli cut his slim and waist-enhancing,
while Jason Basmajian at Gieves & Hawkes turned
double-breasted tailoring into an art form.
A great cut if youre tall and slim, a double-breasted
jacket will enhance the best bits of your physique,
affording you a waist, a bum and broader shoulders.
The key to making it work? Always ensure your jacket
is perfectly tailored anything baggy around the
middle will make you look like a 1980s politician.
Here are five of this seasons best double-breasted
blazers, and what to wear with them.
BBB
PINSTRIPE
Once confined to the bad taste
archive along with red braces
and contrast-collar shirts,
pinstripe tailoring is back.
Championed, over the past
few seasons, by designers such
as Kris Van Assche at Dior
Homme and Kim Jones at Louis
Vuitton, this navy wool take on
the style from Boss is slim-cut
and says you mean business.
Dhs3,899, by Boss
A double-breasted jacket can walk a fine line between sleek-elegant and Mafia boss. It should be slightly longer
than a single-breasted version andwell tailored as it should be kept buttoned.
JASON BASMAJIAN, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GIEVES & HAWKES
TWEED
Pinstripe is for town, tweed is for
country; for the latter, try this soft
red-brown wool checked tweed jacket
from Tiger of Sweden. Wear with
indigo denim jeans and brown chelsea
boots for a smart, off-duty look.
Dhs2,693, by Tiger of Sweden
OT H E R FA N S O F T H E
D O U B L E - B R E AST E D
SUIT
CHRIS
PINE
2013
JOSEPH
GORDONLEVITT
2012
CHECK
MICHA
MICHAEL
CAINE
1968
A close-cut, double-breasted jacket in

superfine wool is a wardrobe perennial.
This windowpane check option in dove
grey by DKNY features a flash of blue
for added depth. Good for bringing out
your eyes, too (as long as theyre blue).
Dhs2,490, by DKNY
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The Almanac
A LS O N E W T H I S M O N T H
OTHER CLOTHES THAT MAKE THE MAN
4
CLASSIC
Inspired by the nautical
blazers worn by naval
officers in the first half
of the 20th century, this
take from Savile Row
tailoring house Gieves &
Hawkes has been given a
slim-cut, contemporary
twist. Wear yours with
tapered white chinos and
tan loafers.
Dhs4,200, by Gieves &
Hawkes
SAU N D E RS TO T H E FO R E
W H AT TO B E S E E N I N O N T H E G R E E N
Darling of Londons fashion influencers, Jonathan Saunders is
regularly praised for both his mens and womenswear. Hes best
knownfor using colour, prints and experimental fabrics (if you need
an oversized, degrad orange overcoat in silk crepe, hes your man).
For A/W 14, he has teamed up with heritage Scottish golfwear
brand Lyle & Scott for a26-piece collection utilising bright patterns.
Our pick is the green fine-gauge polypropylene jumper with boldly
striped back and lined in pure cotton, teamed with the slick navy
cotton Harrington. Available at lyleandscott.com
There is some
truth in doublebreasted jackets
suiting taller,
slimmer men,
but not always,
particularly if
youre going
bespoke. Prince
Charles looks
great in doublebreasted. The
trick is to wear
something with
confidence.
RICHARD JAMES,
SAVILE ROW TAILOR
5
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OUTER
L AY E R
Okay, its a double-breasted jacket,
but cut from extra thick but super soft
wool. This sumptuous offering from
Berluti works just as well as a crossseasonal coat. Pop the collar and wrap
a scarf beneath for a chic, Parisianinspired look. Dhs14,075, by Berluti
W H I ST L E S W H I L E YO U WO R K
S H OW T H E L A D I ES W H O W E A R S T H E T RO U S E R S
For women, Whistles has long been an influential, creative name on
the high street. Good news: for A/W 14, the brand has unveiled its
first mens collection. Clean, minimal and high-quality, the collection
consists of tapered wool trousers, chunky roll-necks, oversized
double-breasted coats andsuede bomber jackets. Available at Mall of
the Emirates, +971 4 341 0951.
Grey wool coat, Dhs2,700; navy cotton/merino roll-neck, Dhs750;
black leather shoes, Dhs1,350, all by Whistles
The Almanac
BBB
Rick Owens at
Shopbop.com
Dhs5,331
WHAT YOU SHOULD BE

WEARING THIS A/W14
APC
at Shopbop.com
Dhs711
MARIO EIMUTH, CEO AND FOUNDER OF STYLEBOP.COM AND

HIS FOUNDING PARTNER (AND BROTHER), THORSTEN EIMUTH,
CELEBRATE THEIR 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY BY SHARING THEIR
TOP TIPS FOR ONLINE SHOPPING THIS SEASON
What three things will you be buying this

A/W season?
MARIO EIMUTH: Ill be looking for a camel

coat (Burberry is a favourite), a black leather
jacket from Balmain and a streamlined, navy
APC pullover.
THORSTEN EIMUTH: I plan to invest in
luxury basics. A Jil Sander alpaca and wool
coat, a Rick Owens cashmere hoodie and a
pair of DSquared2 jeans are on all my list.
Which new designer are you most excited
by this season?
MARIO EIMUTH: We have picked up the

menswear lines from a couple of designers,
which until now we have only carried for
women including 3.1 Phillip Lim, JW
Anderson and Rick Owens. All are great in
their own way and worth taking a look at.
THORSTEN EIMUTH: I am looking
forward to Rick Owens and Jil Sanders new
collections this fall. Rick Owens is edgy, but
in a more relaxed, wearable way. Jil Sander is
perennially cool great for day-to-evening.
What advice would you give to men hesitant
to shop online?
MARIO EIMUTH: Shopping online is

incredibly easy, with door-to-door delivery,
stress-free shopping and an incredible variety
of styles and designers to choose from all
of which you can browse from the comfort of
home. Take advantage of it!
THORSTEN EIMUTH: Take the plunge.
Try it and have someone from customer
service guide you through your first order in
case you have any questions. Its easier than
you think.
What do you know now, in your business,
that you wish youd known 10 years ago?
MARIO EIMUTH: The e-commerce

business model is still rather new and
constantly evolving. Youre learning

something every day. We have no regrets.
Instead, we are embracing everything that
lies ahead.
THORSTEN EIMUTH: We couldnt have
anticipated it at the time, but I wish I had
known the extent to which e-commerce has
the power to change the world. We now have
a truly global platform for getting a really
diverse array of exceptional products to
anyone, anywhere in the world.
Whats the best style advice that youve
ever received?
Balmain
at Shopbop.com
Dhs14,287
Burberry Brit
at Shopbop.com
Dhs829
MARIO EIMUTH: Never disguise stay

true to yourself!
THORSTEN EIMUTH: Wearing either
straight or slim jeans can make a big
difference. The cut looks much better.
OTHER ONLINE SITES

TO BOOKMARK
Do you have a failsafe outfit for business

meetings when you want to impress?
Set up by Rashid Alabbar, click onto

Dubai-based SIVVI.com to browse
among 60 international high-street labels
including American Apparel (the first time
the brand has been available in the Middle
East). Plus they offer free, same-day
delivery options for UAE residents.
How handy is that?
MARIO EIMUTH: A tailored suit from

Neil Barrett: contemporary and slim cut, it is
timeless yet stylish and comfortable to move
around in, which is essential for when I am
on the go from morning to night.
THORSTEN EIMUTH: Im generally
wearing a suit and a white or blue shirt, no tie.
Depending upon the situation, I either pair it
with sneakers or leather boots.
How have you seen mens shopping habits
change over the last 10 years?
MARIO EIMUTH: Lately we have seen men

become increasingly interested in fashion and
also gravitating towards a number of trends.
THORSTEN EIMUTH: I think its all about
consistency when it comes to mens shopping
habits. When they find something that they
like, they tend to stick with it. Everyone
I know who started shopping online has
become addicted.
S I V V I .C O M
M ATC H E S FAS H I O N .C O M
While adding 180-plus pieces every week,
we head here for top-end designer musthaves from Tods, Balenciaga, Bottega
Veneta and Brioni, among others.
O P U M O.C O M
Footwear and accessories from brands
you might not have heard of, but wish you
had earlier. Head here for cool sneakers
from Common Projects, Buttero and ETQ
Amsterdam.
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27
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The Essentials
IN THE
SPOT
LIGHT
Bag, Dhs15,500,
and shoes, Dhs5,400,
both Dior Homme.
Speaker available from
marshallheadphones.
com
polka dot print is usually reserved for the more kookier, loud dresser, but this season Kris Van Assche has made them quietly cool. The Dior
Homme designer embroidered fine dots all over jackets, trousers, shirts, bags and shoes for A/W14, but without it looking in the least slight
wacky. Our top picks are these buckled brogues, which when worn with slim black jeans and a black tee, are more dapper than dandy. The
print also appeared on pin-stripe, three-piece suits in Dior Hommes current collection, giving formalwear a more urban feel. If that sounds a bit too
much, opt for the spotted briefcase instead. Itll make a quieter stylish sound, like Marshalls new mini Stanmore bluetooth speaker.
Dior Homme is at Mall of the Emirates, +971 4 323 5322
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ST Y L I N G A N D W O R D S B Y K AT E H A Z E L L
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EFRAIM EVIDOR
POLKA DOTS GET A COOL

UPDATE AND ARE MAKING
A NOISE THIS SEASON
The Essentials
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THE ANNIVERSARIES
TWO OF MENSWEARS MOST EXCITING BRANDS, LANVIN AND DSQUARED2, CELEBRATE MILESTONES THIS YEAR
WORDS BY KATE HAZELL
LANVIN
Jeanne Lanvin, born in 1867, set up a shop in 1889
marking the beginnings of Lanvin. Esquire looks at the
luxury brand 125 years on
BAG
Lanvin,
price on request
While the French fashion house

marks its 125th anniversary
this year, it wasnt until
1926 that a bespoke tailorshirtmaker range was created
by Jeanne Lanvin. Maurice
Lanvin, one of her nephews
(pictured here with a rather
dapper moustache that would
undoubtedly put anyone
supporting Movember to
shame), took over management
of 15 rue du Faubourg SaintHonor, Lanvins current
address and the only fashion
house back then to offer both

mens and womenwear. The
high collars of the beginning
of the century, eventually gave
way to the large lapels of the
1930 and 1940s and today?
Well, men have more leeway
in terms of personal style but
if you want to get it right this
season, stick to a short collar
buttoned up to the neck and
omit the tie, just as Lanvin
Homme creative director
Lucas Ossendrijver (pictured)
has done for A/W14.
SHOES
Lanvin,
price on request
HAT
Lanvin,
price on request
DSQUARED2
Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten celebrate Saks Fifth
Avenue Dubais 10 year anniverary by sharing 10 style rules
1 Big on travel? Our Classic
Collection offers different
fits depending on the city on
which the look is inspired! Each
look fits different bodies and
personalities so choose your city
and then match your style.
2 Dont be afraid to mix and
match casual and elegant items,
like a sharp blazer with denim.
3 This season focus on a cool
coat and elegant shoes. Theyll
completely make the difference
with any outfit.
4 Never completely close shirt
cuffs, even if youre wearing
cufflinks.
5 Differentiate your fragrance,
one for day and another for
night. Wear them wisely. In
Canada, we say that the man
should come into the room first,
and then his perfume.

6 If you wear glasses, choose
your frames carefully because
they give a personal touch and
add an intellectual aspect to
your look. Take your time so you
buy the perfect pair.
7 Make your stylepersonal by
wearing accessories like
pins for ties, cufflinks
etc. The small details
are important and say
a lot about you.
8 Choose eclectic
colours and patterns
on ties and bow ties.
9 Even if youre not
wearing an elegant suit, wear
your clothes with pride and youll
exude sophistication.
10 Have fun and be brave with
your style.
BAG
Dsquared2 at
Saks Fifth Ave,
around Dhs5,000
BOOT
Dsquared2 at
Saks Fifth Ave,
Dhs3,562
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The Essentials
BBB
THE
ARCHIVISTS
THE MEN AND WOMEN SAFEGUARDING THE HERITAGE OFTHE
WORLDS FINEST FASHION HOUSES
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOFFER RUDQUIST
M A RT I N W I S E AT T U R N B U L L & ASS E R
Creating the archive for a heritage shirtmaker entering its 110th year was never
going to be easy, especially when the
majority of its back stock had been stored
in boxes for most of its life. But Turnbull
& Assers Martin Wise the labels newly
retired marketing director in its tie division
wasnt going to allow a challenge like that
to beat him. After making enquiries as to

what software would suit, and undertaking
training, I was ready to begin, he explains.
The archive contains documents ranging
from accounts to daybooks, letters from
presidents and movie stars, photographs,
books, old advertisements, as well as its
illustrious shirt and tie patterns. Recently,
a customer sent back two shirts, bought

60 years ago, that he thought wed be
interested in, Wise says. The styles are
very different from our shirts made today, so
they found a place in the archive. How many
people have 60-year-old shirts? For a brand
established in 1885, there are plenty more
surprises to come. T U R N B U L L A N D A S S E R . C O . U K
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The Essentials
J U L I E A N N O RS I N I
AT TO M FO R D
A typical day for Julie Ann Orsini can
be anything from photographing and
condition-reporting armfuls of priceless
garments to deciding the bestway for
said pieces to be stored. Its a job that
came along by chance. The former
fashion journalist was offered the
opportunity to work with Tom Ford
after completing an MA in the History
of Fashion and Textiles in New York.
It is a privilege to be the steward of
Mr Fords work, Orsini says. That said,
people hear fashion archive and think
it sounds glamorous. The truth is Im
often alone in a warehouse, packing
and moving heavy boxes. Mr Ford is
rightly highly regarded for his exacting
standards and the meticulous craft he
puts into each garment a process
that often starts at the archive. Design
teams pull from archives more than
any other source; its an amazing tool
for referencing a brands DNA, Orsini
explains. No photo is a replacement
for feeling the fabric or seeing the
construction and colours in person.
TO M F O R D.C O M
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The Essentials
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A N N A Z EG N A AT E R M E N EG I L D O Z EG N A
Working with the Ermenegildo Zegna
brand was in the blood for the designers
granddaughter Anna. But she does far
more than just your average nine-to-five
on the family lot. Since the 2000 launch of
its Fondazione Zegna in Trivero, Italy, she
has become president of the charity, which
funds projects in co-operation with non-
profit organisations across the world.

She has also taken the reigns of its archive
Casa Zegna, in the familys picturesque
former home. And if this wasnt enough,
Anna is responsible for Oasi Zegna, the
towns open-air laboratory, and ZegnArt,
focusing on collaboration in the arts.
My grandfather left us a collection of fabric
samples that date back to 1910 when the

company was founded, she says of the
archive quaking under documents, images,
personal correspondence and notebooks
from Ermenegildo. Personally, Id love an
even greater selection from his private
wardrobe he was such an incredible man,
so more would be wonderful. Z E G N A . C O M
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The Essentials
AU ST I N M U T T I - M E WS E AT H A R DY A M I E S
Hardy Amies archivist Austin Mutti-Mewse
has an unusual claim to fame as a teen,
he and his twin brother Howard became pen
pals with a legion of Hollywood legends,
including James Stewart and Elizabeth Taylor.
The Queens couturier itself has no less an
esteemed history: its the brand that staged
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the first menswear catwalk show in Britain in

1961, and Mutti-Mewse uses his knowledge
of the past to foresee how it can influence
the future. The archive on Savile Row is
also home to sketches from the 1930s and
correspondence between Sir Hardy and the
Queen, as well as drawings for the costumes
Amies designed for 2001: A Space Odyssey.

An exhibition of these drawings in LA last
year attracted big crowds. Jack Nicholson
and Steven Spielberg were impressed with
Amies futuristic yet timeless creations, says
Mutti-Mewse. Igot a kick out of that.
H A R DYA M I E S.C O M
The Essentials
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ST E FA N I A R I C C I
AT SA LVATO R E
F E R R AGA M O
As an art historian who learned all
about Salvatore Ferragamos legacy
of sophisticated yet innovative
shoes during her time working on its
retrospective at the Palazzo Strozzi in
1985, Stefania Ricci was the companys
only choice to help open its museum in
Florence in 1995. Its enormous archive
now houses an almost unparalleled
14,000 pairs of shoes, 5,000 items of
clothing, 3,500 bags and 7,000 small
accessories and scarves, as well as over
a million articles across both mens and
womenswear and Ricci realises the
significance of every piece she looks
after. At the start of each collection,
the Ferragamo designers meet in the
archive for inspiration from the past,
she explains. And its not just in-house
staff who come looking for motivation
for their next project or design. When
we open new exhibitions, the first visitors
are designers of other brands. The
following seasons, we can see the result
in their collections. F E R R A G A M O . C O M
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The Essentials
Hussain Moloobhoy
Age: 34
Nationality: British
Sneaker lowdown:
I have an obsessive relationship
with sneakers. I refer to them as
my kids; I couldnt possibly pick
one favourite pair. I like these
Berlutis as theyve got a touch of
urban elegance about them.
SOLE SWAP
KNOWN FOR CONTRIBUTING TO A STREET CULTURE IN A CITY
WITH VERY FEW WALKABLE STREETS, THE GUYS BEHIND SOLE DXB
SWAP THEIR SNEAKERS FOR BERLUTIS HIGH-FASHION HIGH TOPS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTIN BECK / STYLING BY KATE HAZELL
36
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The Essentials
BBB
Joshua Cox
Age: 29
Nationality: Australian
Sneaker lowdown:
Ive become really picky about
which sneakers I buy, and treat it
in a similar way to buying jewellery
or a watch; I put a lot of thought
into it. The sneaker scene in Dubai
is growing, which I think is a result
of the developing culture. My
favourite pair is usually the last
pair Ive bought, and Ill wear them
with everything jeans, shorts,
even a suit. In fact, the details and
materials on these Berluti sneakers
are exceptional, which makes them
more flexible to wear every day or in
a formal setting.
Joshua wears trousers, Dhs1,400,

McQ; denim shirt, Dhs970, Sandro;
and trainers, Dhs5,850, Berluti.
Hussain wears trousers, Dhs1,750,
Dolce & Gabbana at Harvey Nichols;
cashmere turtleneck, Dhs3,150,
Gucci; and sneakers, Dhs5,850,
Berluti
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37
The Essentials
BBB
Hussain wears vest, Dhs1,700, and trousers, Dhs1,750, both Dolce & Gabbana at
Harvey Nichols; shirt, Dhs2,450, Gucci; and sneakers, Dhs5,850, Berluti
Joshua wears bomber, Dhs2,470, Sandro; tee, Dhs1,650, Valentino at Harvey Nichols;
check trousers, Dhs2,450, Gucci; and sneakers, Dhs5,850, Berluti
S H OT O N LO C AT I O N AT TO KO D U B A I , TO KO - D U B A I .C O M
Diary
Date
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Mark November 14 and 15 in your diaries, as this is when Sole DXB, a trade fair for urban and street wear names ran by these
guys, will take place at the D3 (Dubai Design District). The two-day event will allow the city to engage with fashion, music,
art and the other influences on urban culture.
For more visit soledxb.com.
The Essentials
BBB
Christian Frealdsson
Age: 34
Nationality: Swedish
Sneaker lowdown:
I got my first pair of sneakers when
I was five years-old. They were
a pair of HightopConverse, and
since then Ive wornsneakers every
day. Im not a hardcore sneaker
collector, I just love the look and
feel of them, but my favourite pair
is a pair of full whiteNike Airmax 1.
I can wear them with anything. The
craftsmanship behind these Berluti
sneakers, though, is amazing; you
can tell just by holding them. A lot
of time and love has been spent
making these shoes.
Christian wears tee,

Dhs2,300, Gucci; his
own jeans; and sneakers,
Dhs5,850, Berluti
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The Interview
The
R et u r n
o f R ay
THE CHANCE TO REINVENT BRITISH TAILORING
BRAND DUNHILL WAS ENOUGH TO PULL JOHN RAY
OUT OF RETIREMENT.
INTERVIEW BY JEREMY LAWRENCE

UNHILL IS A PERENNIAL FAVOURITE of Esquire,
thanks to its values of classic British tailoring, quality
and heritage. But if were honest, the brand had drifted
slightly ever since Kim Jones jumped ship for Louis
Vuitton in 2010. It was John Ray who eventually got
the nod as creative director three years later and that was something of
a surprise move. The Scottish-born designer has a fine track-record
having work with, and then succeeded, Tom Ford as menswear
designer at Gucci. But hed been effectively retired for almost a decade
and, when he did join Dunhill, found the company in a period of
transition and awaiting a new CEO. But now they have a man at the top
Fabrizio Cardinali, who previously worked at Lancel and Dolce &
Gabbana and an autumn/winter line that stays true to everything
that Dunhill represents, but puts it firmly in a contemporary and
relevant space. Esquire caught up with John Ray at London Collections:
Men to find out more about his plans for the brand and what exactly he
did with his time off.
I absolutely love your collection and Im sure everyone else today

has been saying the same.
Yes they have, but theyre always going to say that [laughs].
Obviously youve gone back to the archives, and thats fantastic,
but youve done something thats really contemporary with it.
Yes thats whats important contemporary. Archives are great

because you have them and you can plunder them but its a bit of
a clich to say, Ive gone back to the archives. But theyre there,
so you cant avoid them. Its important for me to make a contemporary
collection, otherwise it would look like a BBC costume drama, which
I hate. So its important that people want to wear this stuff.
Ive had plenty of time to go through all the outfits this morning.
I loved the washable jackets, the different cuts, the way youve
used the fabrics, the way its themed from going from the beach to
after the beach and then into evening wear. But what I really want
to know from you is this: having stepped out from the game for a
while, what did that do for you in terms of your creative process?
Probably, if anything, its made me more creative in a way because

Ive been out of it for so long. So you come back with renewed energy.
I didnt really have to come back or want to come back, but I did it
because I thought it would be an interesting challenge, something that
I could really relate to. I think its important when youre doing some
40
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The Interview
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Above: A/W14 accessories from Dunhill.

Left: A look from Dunhills A/W14 readyto-wear collection.
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41
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The Interview
Left: A full look from Dunhills

A/W14 ready-to-wear collection.
Below: Accessories from Dunhills
A/W14 collection
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The Interview
BBB
creative work that you feel yourself in it, because otherwise if youre
guessing what a brand should look like then its hard, but if you feel it,
you understand it; it comes from inside. And with Dunhill there are
these different levels and different ages.
What were you doing with you time off? How long has it been?
Eight to 10 years. I cant even remember. I ran away, thinking it would

be six months in Scotland, and came back eight years later.
Did being in Scotland influence you?
I dont really know if it had an influence. It was nice to have all that
free time, because I was decorating my house. So I still had this
creative kind of thing going on, and living in Edinburgh is great
because its got a lot of culture. So youre never really devoid of things
to keep you interested. So I guess I became more informed about
painting and stuff because I had a lot of time to look around galleries.
It was a good step away from fashion.
How do you think your style changed over that period? Can you see
a shift in your approach?
Its hard to say because I do think that youve kind of defined your
own style when youre a young man. By the time youre 25, you more
or less know what youre about. You know what suits you; you know
what you like. I guess that just evolves as you get older. What I like
about Dunhill is that Gucci was very showy, very flash, but here I
want a quieter approach; more subtle and bit more restraint and
that is a challenge, because its hard to find balance. I love traditional
clothes but youve got to re-proportion them, use additional fabrics to
lighten them up. So I dont want to reinvent menswear. I dont want to
reinvent the wheel or whatever. Its just nice to make some beautiful
clothes that men want to wear.
The fabrics in this collection are fantastic for the Middle Eastern
climate. Theyre so light, wearable and practical. For instance, the
off-white jacket that you can wash and drip dry overnight is so useful
because in our hot climate that would get grimy pretty quickly.
See, thats what clever about this fabric. You can take it on holiday,
wash and hang it overnight and have it pressed and then wear it again
the next day. I think thats modern, isnt it? The other ones are more
structured but I like that because its more British isnt it? Sometimes
you need that structure to maintain the form. It can hide a lot of good
living! [laughs]
I guess its important from the British perspective but we stick to
our strengths. We cant all pretend to be Italian can we?
Exactly, I think thats what is good about the British. The specific
shape: the little skirt on the back of the jacket, the trousers not too
tight youve got a taper on them the slightly high waist. I think
it just looks British, and the only thing we can be is British. You cant
pretend to be anyone else, you might as well go to the roots. And I want
to offer this internationally. Its a good arena to play in.
Does it feel exciting to be part of the personnel at Dunhill?
Its great. You know, to be honest, when I came I struggled for the
first six months, because jumping from Gucci, which was a well-oiled
machine, into Dunhill, which was kind of sleepy, without being rude,
and it was very difficult for one man to make any changes. But now
weve got a CEO, Fabrizio Cardinali, who has brought in a whole
bunch of people that really know the industry and can support me.
I can really feel now that with that sort of backing, we can make a big
change to the brand. I want to just get it right; Im not in any hurry to
flip it. I think it just needs to grow and keep the essence of the brand
and move slowly.
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The Essentials
Object Of Desire
MAKE IT A DOUBLE
SPEND WISELY AND INVEST IN THESE ZEGNA COUTURE DOUBLE MONK-STRAP SHOES
hen Stefano Pilati was announced as the new head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture in 2012, menswear experts were united in
their approval. Skilfully combining the tailoring houses established sartorial sensibility and the beautiful fabrics Zegna produces
with his own flair for design, Pilati has not put a foot wrong. Appropriately, you can see that in Zegnas shoes. These double monk-straps
from Pilatis autumn/winter 14 collection (his second for the label) are a case in point. Made with a French calf-skin upper and completed with
elegant brogue detailing, the shoes also feature a thick, Goodyear-welted leather sole, which comes finished underneath with three hand-stitched
crosses, inspired by the stitching used by Zegnas tailors in the brands beautiful handmade Su Misura suits. zegna.com
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W O R D S B Y T E O VA N D E N B R O E K E , P H OTO G R A P H B Y A L E X A N D E R K E N T
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
COUTURE DOUBLE
MONK-STRAP SHOES
FROM DHS5,435
The Essentials
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GENTLEMANS CLUB
THE TRAVELLING MAN NEEDS TO KNOW ABOUT TODS EXCLUSIVE JP CLUBS IN MILAN AND L.A.
ods sartorial collection, introduced exactly a year ago, is the

Italian brands exceptional range of hand-constructed leather
goods made from the most exquisite materials money can
buy. Using age-old techniques that have been passed down over the past
94 years that Tods has been around, the Sartorial Collection, consisting
of six styles of shoe from the classic lace-up Goodyear to refined loaders
and a few variations of the Double Stripe bag, has redefined Tods
commitment to excellence. The custom-made pieces are currently only
available in Tods boutiques in Milan, Paris, Shanghai, Tokyo and Los
Angeles Dubai is on the waiting list; well be sure to let you know first
when it happens but should you be in Italy or the US, both stores have
now opened exclusive JP Tods clubs, a separate space exclusively for
this collection, available to only the most dapper of gentlemen.
Set on its own floor, and home to everything to do with the Sartorial
Collection, the clubs focus in on personal service, much like visiting
a tailor. A sales associate is available to each and every man that walks
into the space, taking him though the entire collection in as much depth
as needed, while a customisation service is also available for every
piece purchased, should you want your shoes or bags embossed with
your initials. Decked out in vintage furniture from the 1950s and 1970s
and with valuable artworks on the walls, you can even mull over your
shopping with a livener, much like a gentlemans club. Take your time
while you go through their selection of leathers and designs, before you
start the made-to-order process, all part of the Tods JP service. After all,
time is of the essence when youre choosing a future heirloom thatll be
passed down generations. And its a good excuse for a single malt, if ever
weve heard one.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: C O U R T E S Y T O D S .
The Tods Sartorial Collection starts from Dhs5,335,

visit tods.com for more information.
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The Interview
B E Y O N D
BESPOKE
DOLCE & GABBANA LAUNCHES A BESPOKE TAILORING SERVICE
THATS SET TO CHANGE THE FACE OF MENSWEAR
HERE ARENT MANY DESIGNERS

AS WELL-KNOWN AS DOLCE
& GABBANA. The Sicilian duo,
Domenico Dolce and Stefano
Gabbana, have been churning
out clothes since 1985 and are now
one of the biggest fashion houses
in the world with currently over
250 boutiques around the globe.
They banked around Dhs4.77 billion
last year, despite being one of the
worlds most counterfeited labels, but dont take themselves too
seriously. Gabbana likes to regram the funniest fake odes to their
brand on his Instagram account, @stefanogabbana, followed by a
string of hysterically laughing emoticons.
But back to the clothes. If you see a dapper gent on the red carpet,
chances are hell be wearing a D&G suit. Liam Hemsworth, Matthew
McConaughey and Channing Tatum are all fans of the duos razor
sharp suits. But this season the Italian designers have decided to focus
on making all men look as sharp as the screen stars, and not just those
with chiselled arms, toned abs and round-the-clock personal trainers.
Theyre doing this by launching their first atelier for bespoke
menswear, Dolce & Gabbana Sartoria.
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The Interview
Dolce & Gabbana

held an exclusive
runway show in
June in their new
Sartoria space
to showcase the
bespoke service
he service, which could change the face of designer

menswear altogether, is housed in a 16th-century
palazzo on the corner of Corso Venezia and Via della
Spiga in Milans Quadrilatero dOro shopping quarter.
Next door is Dolce & Gabbanas mens shoe boutique,
womens accessories boutique, the companys multibrand Spiga 2 store, plus its Barbiere barbershop,
Beauty Farm spa, and Martini Bar and Bistrot (where the duo watched
Italys World Cup games this summer with their mates).
The location itself is impressive enough just being in Italy helps
but inside it gets even better. Iconic mid-century modern and neoclassic
furniture sits on polished marble and parquet flooring. Venetian glass
chandeliers from influential glassware designer, Ercole Barovier, hang
from high ceilings. A 140-bulb Palmengarten light fixture frames the
centre room, while more rooms are filled with works by Italian architect
and designer Gio Ponti.
Dolce & Gabbana

Sartoria, on Milans
Quadriliatero dOro
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All of this impressive dcor sets the scene for the exceptional tailoring
service, which not only allows men to choose an impeccably cut and
perfectly-portioned suit from their own choice of fabric, but encourages
each gent to embrace his own creative flair by allowing even the smallest
of minute detail to be customised. This is no average tailoring service.
As well as traditional suits, tuxedos and morning suits, men can also
opt for a bespoke Sicilian three-piece suit, coat, overcoat, cashmere scarf,
shirts, T-shirts and even polo-shirts, all handmade to perfection. Dolce &
Gabbana Sartoria is about the creating the perfect bespoke wardrobe, and
nothing is left behind.
Every man lives in a world of his own, with completely different
characteristics to anyone else, says Stefano Gabbana, explaining why
their team of tailors meticulously measure each client. Our suits
enhance the strong points of the male body. This is only possible
thanks to our knowledge of the human body, which is based on a near
anatomical study that is crucial for creating garments that fall perfectly.
BBB
OUR SUITS ENHANCE A

MANS STRONG POINTS,
ONLY POSSIBLE THANKS
TO KNOWLEDGE OF THE
HUMAN BODY. ITS BASED
ON AN ANATOMICAL
STUDY CRUCIAL FOR
CREATING GARMENTS
THAT FALL PERFECTLY.
STEFANO GABBANA
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The Interview
A 140-light buld
chandelier by
Palmengarten hangs
in the central room
Each suit jacket alone takes 25 hours of work, using traditional

tailoring techniques passed down through the decades as well as from the
fathers of both designers. Even the cut of the fabric is a well-thought-out
starting point: the weave and texture of the material are cut by hand with
the upmost impeccable precision. Cutting fabrics has always been an
obsession of mine, admits Domenico Dolce. I remember watching my
father when I was young and how he was able to transform the body with
a suit. Only many years later, I discovered the master workmanship and
expertise that was behind his work and how it all began with the cut of
the fabric.
The next step in the bespoke jacket process is the making of the inside
canvas, made from wool and horsehair and used on the inside of the chest
and lapels. In some areas the canvas is reinforced with camel hair, which,
rather than using actual camels (dont worry!), is made from combining
sheep hair with twisted thread. When my father taught me how to make
a jacket I saw it almost as a revelation, continues Dolce. Thats when I
discovered the hidden world inside it, made of stitches, horsehair canvas,
padding and much more. Its an invisible world beneath the lining.
The armhole, shoulders and internal lining are also all sewn by hand,
as well as the cut on the sleeve. The collar, the under collar patch,
and the jackets lapels are fixed using cross-stitching, while the trousers
and waistcoat are made using the half stitch technique, also by hand.
Our trousers have always been characterised by a slim fit. What changes
is the height of the crotch, which can create different styles and fits,
explains Dolce, which will comfort any gent not entirely comfortable
with Dolce & Gabbanas typically slim leg.
Finally, when having a suit made, clients are encouraged to get
creative with their buttonholes, which are made at the atelier using an
antique method that has again been passed on through the generations.
Each one is created individually, cut one by one, directly on the fabric
of the suit, and then hand-finished. The quality of a dress is achieved
by the various techniques, but at the end of the day it all comes down to
unique details, Gabbana says simply, before giving an example of this
approach. When talking about a mans jacket, one of the most important
of these details are the buttonholes.
Its a far cry from their A/W14 collection, which was officially
inspired by Sicilian history and the Romans. This led journalists to
liken it to the Game of Thrones costumes, even though both designers
have never seen the show. Although to be fair to the press, sweatshirts
adorned with images of Norman kings (who invaded Sicily in the 11th
Century) and a print of their suits of armour decorating a spectacular
shearling were both reminiscent of George R. R Martins fantasy tale.
That show, held in Milan last January, was closed by bearded model,
Tony Ward, who, at 51-years-old, is the same age as Gabbana (Dolce is
four years older). As the duo approach their 30th year in the industry,
they have managed to ensure that they are relevant for men of every age.
When I sketch, I think about what I want to wear, but mostly I think
about fashion, explains Gabbana. Our prints in the A/W14 collection
are for younger men and they look great. But there are things that now,
at 51, I cannot wear. I prefer to stick to a perfect polo.
Which is where a bespoke service comes in extremely handy.
D O LC E & GA B BA N A SA RTO R I A : T H E P RO C E S S I N P I CT U R E S
Traditional trailoring techniques, handed down over generations, are used when creating a piece as part of Dolce & Gabbanas Sartoria service.
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Iconic mid-century
furniture fills the
space, including
chairs by Ponti for
Reguitti
Each button hole is created individually, cut directly onto the suit and finished by hand.
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The Interview
KEEPING
THE BRITISH
END UP
JEREMY HACKETT, FOUNDER OF THE HACKETT
BRAND, ON BRITISH STYLE, MANUFACTURING, RED
TROUSERS, MODS AND THE BASIC RULES OF STYLE
BY M AT T P O M ROY
STRUGGLE WITH POCKET SQUARES because I am

conscious it looks as though Ive made too much
effort, Jeremy Hackett says. Right there, in that one
line, is all you need to know about Mr Hackett and his
brand. Its the most English of sentences. And in many
ways its the reason the brand has been a huge success with men,
regular men who want to look good but dont want to look like theyre
trying too hard or, as Michael Caine said in Alfie, too poncified.
That dandy look that was seemingly everywhere for the last few
seasons is falling out of fashion now. Once again, were returning to a
more relaxed look. I prefer to keep it simple, Hackett tells Esquire
from the front seat of the car as we drive down Kings Road in Chelsea,
London, and past where he started out. This is where I used to have my
shops, he says, excitedly breaking off from a sentence and pointing at an
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The flagship store in

Regent Street, with full
season range. For the
four UAE locations,
see hackett.com
BBB
upcoming crossroads. One shop on that corner, then one the other side
of the road the cab drivers used to refer to this spot as Hacketts Cross.
And that pub over there, The White Horse, that was our local it was
known as the Sloany Pony, he chuckles and then lets us in on a secret:
he was responsible for that red trousers trend that was so cherished by
certain types and derided by pretty much everyone else. We used to sell
red trousers and lots of the Sloane types used to come in and buy them,
and it just spread from there, he says, before hastily adding, Id never
wear them though.
Red trousers aside, the Hackett brand has established itself as one
of the key international torchbearers of a British style that is largely
cherished around the world. Everywhere I go, people are talking about
it he says. Theres a real appetite for the look and we always have this
British ambiance about the brand. But abroad its appreciated more than
in England. The French are Anglophiles, much as theyd like to deny
it. In Spain, they have those department stores called El Corte Ingls
[The English Cut] and the Italians love the whole idea of the English
gentleman. As for the Americans, youve only got to say Downton Abbey
to them, and in Scandinavia they are absolutely mad about Midsomer
Murders. Theres this romantic notion of the English gentleman and
everything that surrounds it. So the market, for us, is certainly worth
playing up to.
While they certainly do play up to the notion of Britishness, the
downside, is that while that look and style is desirable, the British
manufacturing industry in 2014 is struggling. Its tough, he sighs.
I said in an interview with The Times newspaper that there was very
little manufacturing left in Britain and I was castigated for it. But to be
honest, there is very little and although its coming back, thats more at
an artisan level rather than serious manufacturing.
The Times did concede that between 2000 and 2009, production
of textiles slumped by nearly 45 percent as British fashion houses
increasingly outsourced their production operations. Some people ask
why dont I get involved in manufacturing, but Im a retailer and thats
what Im good at, says Hackett of this slump. Back when I started,
95 percent of everything I sold was made in England but now theres
competition from Italy, Portugal, Germany, Turkey and so on. I have one
manufacturer I use in England who is really good, but I had to sell the
suits he made for 1,500 [Dhs8,980] and I mostly need to be selling a suit
for 600 [Dhs3,600] to 800 [Dhs4,800]. Once you get to 1,500, its a
different customer.
So, despite the obvious love for British style, are people not prepared
to pay a little extra to know that it not only looks British but was made
there too and its truly authentic? People like the idea of Made in Britain
but its a tough call, he says. I think theres a point where people will
question if its worth the extra money. Say, for instance, you have to choose
between two shirts: one is made in Italy and costs 90 [Dhs540] and the
other is English and is 120 [Dhs720]... its going to be a tough sell.
Much like his UK compatriot, Paul Smith, Hackett is a man who
worked his way up through the trade from the shopfloor rather than
via air kisses and the catwalk. Hes earned his right to be here and is a
businessman as much as a figurehead of the brand that much is clear
when he talks about margins and outsourcing. But at heart hes still
hugely passionate about clothing. As with many of the elder statesmen
of British style, this can be traced back to having been a member of
that most tastefully forward-thinking of tribes, the Mods. Oh sure,
I was a Mod when I was 16, he grins. It was towards the end of that
era, and I liked the style because it was neat and tailored. That look is
still something I warm to. The late-Mod, early-Skinhead thing, what
Id term a Suedehead, thats a good image. It was that slightly French
influence: the neat trousers, short sweater, button-down shirt, probably
Ben Sherman, which I used to sell by the truckload when I was 16. Young
guys of 16 or 17 would come in on a Friday to the shop I was working in
with their pay, in cash of course, all wanting a new Ben Sherman.
Its in this reverie that Hackett perhaps reveals where his sartorial
heart lies. Was this the key era when British style was at its peak?
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The Interview
At the Oxford-versusCambridge Boat Race
Overall, the British style was probably best in the 1950s and 1960s
when things were a less global and identities were less diluted, he says,
before explaining how fashion is now a bit mid-Atlantic thanks to
people having the opportunity to travel more and see different cultures,
which influences the way they put clothes together. Americans always
look to the more classical end of British fashion, but its done in a softer
way than it was done in England. And again because of travelling weve
become more American, so its a marrying of the two looks. He doesnt
claim to be immune to this trend. Hey, I love a lot of the American stuff
Im wearing a pair of 25-year old Brooks Brothers cordovan loafers as
we speak, he says.
A look back at the Hackett archives testifies to this gradual change in
style. When I look back at old photographs of what we were doing 30
years ago, the shift looks quite dramatic, but it has simply evolved across
three decades and the tailoring has become much softer and lighter from
what we use to do, so its generally more relaxed now.
Softer, lighter, ever-evolving... its a positive change, though still
theres a fine line between getting the Brit look wrong and looking like
an office drone on the daily commute, or pulling it off to look like one
of the cast of The Avengers. The Hackett range does it nicely indeed,
the bowler hat and crossed umbrellas of the Mayfair range is inspired
by John Steed of the iconic 60s spy series. That Mayfair range is a
gentle side door from the high street of seasonal fashion; one that leads
to a more timeless look that you wont have to spend a fortune on. As a
further bonus, you wont look like yesterdays man before youve paid off
the credit card bill.
The basic rules, however, are still pretty clear. The biggest mistake
men make, he says, is either that theyre not making enough effort or
theyre making too much effort. For me its about owning your clothes.
Dressed but not dressed up. Simplicity is the key and making sure that
things fit well when you buy.
Theres this whole dandified thing and I keep seeing these street
photographs with everyone trying to get in front of the camera with this
dandified look and gawd, its horrible. Just make sure that things fit
well when you buy them and wear them properly. He leans in, slightly
conspiratorially. I see people wearing jackets where the sleeves are far
too long and theyre wearing them with all three buttons done up. He
laughs and shakes his head, still the 16-year-old Mod at heart, somewhat
exasperated by the others getting it wrong.
The British manufacturing industry may be a fraction of what it was,
but in terms of style and design its as popular as ever. Jeremy Hackett is
one of those men who give it every reason to be optimistic, and if youre
ever unsure when shopping, hes a reliable sartorial compass. Just keep it
simple. Make sure it fits. Dress for yourself not others and, for goodness
sake dont do up all three buttons on your suit jacket.
Our car pulls into Putney, down by the Thames river, through the
wandering crowds (including several pairs of red trousers) and up to The
London Rowing Club boathouse, sponsored by Hackett for todays 160th
Oxford-versus-Cambridge boat race. Its an event as British as they come,
sponsored by a brand that celebrates this exact spirit. As we get out, he
smiles, looks up at a leaden sky and cheerily says, Yknow, I think the
rains going to hold off well be fine.
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JEREMY HACKET T
AS THE FOUNDER AND CHAIRMAN OF BRITISH
MENSWEAR COMPANY HACKETT LONDON, IT
WOULD BE FAIR TO ASSUME THAT JEREMY
HACKETT IS A MAN OF GOOD TASTE
This list of life essentials doesnt disappoint
TOOL
Watch 1963 RolexExplorer.
Subscription Esquire!
Bike Hackett Cooper.
Pencil Assorted hotel
pencils.
Paper The Wren
Pressstationery.
Knife Swiss Army
byVictorinox.
Pen Caran dAche pen.
GROOMING
Toothpaste DR Harris.
Cologne Vetiver, by Creed.
Shaving foam Nivea.
Moisturiser Kiehls.
Face wash Almond oil
soapbyDRHarris.
Shower gel Kiehls.
Shampoo Truefitt & Hill.
Towels White, by Peter
Jones.
The Interview
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Items for the new season

STYLE
Jeans Levis 505.
Shoes Cordovan loafers,
by Alden. Golf shoes, by JM
Weston. Bespoke, by George
Cleverley.
Suit Hackett bespoke.
Sunglasses Randolph or
Hackett.
Tie Drakes.
Boxer shorts Derek Rose.
Socks Long.
Sneakers Sperry.
Wallet Cypris Japan.
Hat Panama.
PEOPLE
HOME
Fashion world icon

My tailor.
Real world icon
DavidHockney.
Fictional style icon
Sherlock Holmes.
Chair Twenties plantation

deckchair.
Lamp Fifties palm tree lamp.
Bed linen White by Peter
Jones.
Desk Thirties limed-oak,
Heals.
Sofa Hackett tweed-covered
Chesterfield.
TR AVEL
TECHNOLOGY
FOOD AND DRINK
Shop United Arrows, Tokyo.

Hometown London.
Destination Savannah/
Melbourne.
Suitcase Globetrotter.
Hotel The Imperial, Delhi.
Car Range Rover.

Camera Panasonic GF1.
Phone Vintage Nokia.
Tablet iPad.
Laptop MacBook Pro.
Wine Sauvignon blanc.

Spirit Beefeater 24 Gin.
Dish Duck salad at
LeCaprice.
Snack Scrambled eggs on
toast.
Club Mortons.
Restaurant Scotts.
Local Hot Stuff curry house
in Vauxhall.
Slim-fit Mayfair
shirt, Dhs537
Weekender bag,
Dhs597
Brushed check
shirt, Dhs537
Striped webbing
belt, Dhs358
Knitted tie,
Dhs537
Flannel trousers,
Dhs1,190
Casual shirt,
Dhs567
Hip flask,
Dhs1,790
Logo cufflinks,
Dhs388
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The Interview
Family
Tradition
THE CEO OF ITALIAN SHOE BRAND SANTONI
REVEALS THAT, DESPITE INCREASED GROWTH AND
TURNOVER, THIS IS STILL A FAMILY BUSINESS WITH
TRADITIONAL VALUES AT ITS CORE
INTERVIEW BY CHRIS ANDERSON

IUSEPPE SANTONI has been CEO of the company bearing
his surname since 1990. Clearly, you do not hold a position for
that long unless things are going well in Santonis case that
means selling lots of shoes. So what is Giuseppes secret? I will give you
one word, he says, speaking from his office at the company headquarters in Marche, on the Adriatic coast of Italy. Quality. Its that
simple. We strive for quality in the production, the design and the
comfort of our shoes, as well as the workmanship and the environment.
This is our brand philosophy.
If you were to take a look under Giuseppes desk, you would probably
find him wearing a prototype pair of the latest Santoni footwear, as each
is personally tested by him before heading to the production line. This
is his assurance that quality is being maintained. The company was
started by my father in 1975, and when I joined he allowed me to bring a
fresh perspective, to adopt this philosophy, but keeping and respecting
the old traditions, he reveals. One of the ways we do that is to have
young designers, aged 22-35, and then an older generation making the
shoes. The younger people bring the fresh ideas, while those involved in
the construction apply them to the traditional system. That is how we
maintain the quality.
According to Giuseppe, a typical Santoni design is not old or boring,
but will have a contemporary feel, sparked perhaps by the colour,
the trademark orange interior or sole, or one of the brands high-end
collaborators, such as AMG, IWC watches or Rubelli fabrics. The
attention to detail applied to the construction then matches the values
that his father, Andrea, was so fond of, from the quality of the leather to
the hand-stitching, and even the coloured finish, painstakingly crafted
by a team of painters, toiling for hours with their brushes. Different price
levels of shoes can be chosen, from ready-to-wear to bespoke, the latter
shaped exactly to the customers foot.
It is this ingenuity that has helped the company to grow. Santoni is
far bigger in 2014 than when Giuseppe took over (20 people in 1990
compared to 500 now, he informs us). For me, this is natural, he admits.
In 1975 when it started, we lived upstairs in our house, and downstairs
in the garage was the factory. I grew up around it, and I would work
there after school. I learned to make shoes on the line, so when I started
full time at the age of 20, I already knew about the product. I handled
all of the orders from America, as I was the only one who spoke English,
and I would talk on the phone and send faxes. Soon I started to travel to
develop the brand overseas, and when you know about the product to the
level that I did, youre passionate and people listen to you. From there,
becoming CEO was a natural development.
Giuseppe admits that such in-depth knowledge does not make him
afraid to speak out, sometimes asking for the colour of a particular
model to be changed minutes before a new line is set to be unveiled, for
example. Yes, I am well known for that, he laughs, When you know
how to do it, you know what is possible. But to be able to ask for a change
at that stage, you need to have control, and the respect that comes from
believing in the company and showing that you are capable. I always say
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Right: The Santoni

headquarters in
Marche, on the
Adriatic coast
of Italy. Left: A
craftsman working
on leather soon
to become a pair
of Santoni shoes.
Far left: Giuseppe
Santoni, CEO of
Santoni.
WITH ITALIAN FAMILY

BUSINESSES, ITS VERY INFORMAL.
IF YOU HAVE TO MAKE A
DECISION, YOU DONT CALL THE
SHAREHOLDERS; YOU DISCUSS IT
AT LUNCH OR DINNER INSTEAD,
BECAUSE THIS IS WHERE THE
FAMILY GETS TOGETHER.
GIUSEPPE SANTONI
that the best shoes we can do are the next shoes, not the ones we have
done. We dont sit on our success and believe that we are the best.
Im very pushy, definitely.
There is clearly a degree of confidence that has built within
Giuseppe in line with the growth of Santoni, helping him to handle
tough decisions. When we started making ladies shoes and built
the factory, we knew it would be a nightmare, he says, referring to a
project that started six years ago. Making mens shoes and womens
shoes are different jobs like comparing a surgeon to a dentist, as both
are doctors, but with very different skills. We had to hire new people
throughout. Mens shoes must be strong, heavy and good quality, but
ladies shoes must be very light. The only thing in common is the brand
name and our philosophy. Opening that factory was a big change, and
in the beginning it wasnt easy, but it was the right thing to do, and now
I have the confirmation that we did well. A lot of time, effort and money
were needed to get there.
Giuseppe identifies his decision to tackle the womens market as a
time that his parents tried to persuade him it was a gamble not worth
taking, but where he knew it was necessary for the company to succeed.
They are still actively involved in Santoni, with Andrea often seen
touring the factories and chatting with the workers. With Italian family
businesses, its very informal, Giuseppe describes. If you have to make
a decision, you dont call the shareholders or whoever; you discuss it
during lunch or dinner instead, because this is where the family gets
together. Were a bigger company now, but we still talk within the family.
For me, its a natural way to manage.
But Giuseppe understands that being a CEO also carries a degree of
responsibility, doing what others cannot, such as boosting Santonis green
credentials. This is a part of the quality process, he reveals. I could
run the factories cheaply without bothering with all of that, but when
you become someone who can make decisions, you need to consider
the consequences. I could build the factory with no respect for the
environment, without using recyclable materials, solar panels or safer air
conditioning, but instead I went for it and I am very proud that I did.
There seems to be only one question we have left for Giuseppe
where can we buy Santoni shoes in the Middle East? At the moment, we
are not a mature brand there, he admits. We started just a few seasons
ago, but its promising. The market there wants quality, and
we are definitely a quality company, with great design, materials and
high standards. Giuseppe tells us that with a dedicated boutique on
the Pearl-Qatar in Doha, and with distribution through branches of
Rodeo Drive in Dubai, Santoni is beginning to carve itself a presence.
He reveals that a few important UAE dignitaries have already purchased
shoes, even having dinner with Giuseppe to learn more. Did anything
catch their eye in particular? Our winter line has been out since June,
he concludes. As ever, we want to come in at a more affordable level
than our rivals, but with a higher quality. Its a good deal, when you see
something that impresses you and when the price is fair. That is what is
happening with Santoni. M O R E I N F O A T S A N T O N I S H O E S . C O M
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The Essentials
NOTES
&
ESSAYS
M U S I N G S, M E M O R I E S A N D A TO U C H
O F N OSTA LG I A . W R I T E RS S H A R E T H E I R
T H O U G H TS O N M E N S ST Y L E TO DAY
J O S H UA F E R R I S
THE YEAR-AFTER EFFECT

S I M O N GA R F I E L D
CONVERSE PERVERSE
CA RO L I N E E VA N S
FREUDS COAT
G B RU C E B OY E R
A QUESTION OF POCKETS
J O S E P H ON E I L L
FATHER TO SON
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LES JEANCLODE
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envy the ape. He comes down the chute of the womb,

and once he dries in the sun, hes ready to go. Hell
need to keep his coat clean of bloodsuckers and duck
the dung, but hell never have to shop for a shirt, or
coordinate colours, or debate the mirror to a draw. His
couture is God-given and above reproach.
Man, on the other hand, lofty and superior man, has
so much to figure out. Not just his place in the world, his
ambitions, his moral bearing. He has to decide what to wear.
Cords or denim? Tank top or T-shirt? Polo or bow tie? Are
you a cardigan man? Can you pull off floral? Are you naked
behind the trend, or is there some unique thread, an essence of
you, expressed by what you choose to wear? Do you have vision?
Because fashion is not just a matter of plaid or paisley, boxers
or briefs. What you sport on your back says something, in
however oblique and imperfect a way, of what you bear in your
heart. Make fashion honest, and the flash gives way to mettle.
Were talking about character. Who you are, what makes you
you. Which is why the question of what to wear is no casual
matter. Its fraught, unsettling, existentially turbulent.
Let me tell you about a shirt of mine. I bought it at a highend mens boutique not too long ago. It was a pretty baby-blue
button-down, delicately patterned with blackbirds. It was
one of the most beautiful pieces of clothing Id ever seen. As
I approached it on the rack, as I held it skyward and angels sang,
it was love at first sight. I said to myself, this shirts for me. It is
me, vis--vis shirts. Elegant. Distinguished. Ill set a birds-onshirt trend. Women will tremble, and men will writhe.
I wore that shirt on every special occasion. I hosted things
in it. Time passed, and the shirt hung, reverentially, in my closet.
A few months later, I took it out and put it on again.
I looked like an a**hole! What are those, birds? Who wears
birds like that out in public? At enough distance, they didnt
even look like birds. They were more like irregular polka dots,
or thumb smudges, or turds free-falling one after another. That
baby blue I loved so much now looked effete and childish. And
how had I not noticed how long it was? It practically came down
to my knees! That bird shirt was like a beautiful sundress!
So, yeah, I have vision. It just happens to be of the hindsight
variety, merciless and without flaw.
My life in fashion is ruled over by the Year-After Effect.
A year after I buy something, and wear it frequently, I realise
how bad it is. Not always. Just too often for comfort. And when
its bad, its bad. Its ill-fitting, its out-of-style: its corny. And an
entire year must pass before my eyes resolve into focus, during
which time I move blithely through the world in clown suits,
bellboy tunics, ahoy-ye hats, dickies, pantaloons, leotards all
while feeling most masculine and proud.
Its made me paranoid. I cant trust myself to act in my own
best interest. I wander around a shop attracted to extraordinary
things, wondering how they will betray me in a years time.
I freeze up approaching the counter, back away, return
everything to the rack, and leave the store empty-handed.
And though I might be convinced that by now Ive learned my
lesson, that I cant possibly make any more fashion gaffes, past
experience reminds me that Im myopic and prone to delusion.
There was a time in college when I wore a beloved wristwatch until a girlfriend of mine infinitely more beloved
asked me why I had an attachment to a womans watch.
It wasnt a womans watch! It just had a really small face.
Another woman I dated asked me if I could not wear those
orange jeans anymore. And I had a pair of blue and grey plaid
pants that I wore often, but always with the only shirt I had to
complement them a thrift-store golf shirt. There was nothing
wrong with the pants, but the golf shirt was a golf shirt. I wore
The Essentials
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N O .1
J O S H UA F E R R I S
THE YEAR-AFTER EFFECT

THE FASHION TREACHERY OF MY FUTURE SELF
those two together for an entire year, family members yelling Fore!
whenever I turned my back.
What was I thinking? And what was I saying about myself? If, as
Polonius advises Laertes, the apparel oft proclaims the man, and if Im
removed by a years time from any accurate assessment of how my
clothes proclaim me, then who am I?
The ape is free of all wonder and doubt. I hate that little b*****d.
People will tell you, But isnt it better to be a man than a beast?
Sometimes Im not so sure. So what we can laugh? Who cares we can
think? We have to dress ourselves. The ape, as the lesser animal, should
be saddled with that oppression. Ive only touched upon the treachery
of our so-called evolution. I dress at my peril, knowing that a day of
reckoning is ever upon me, when a simple recalibration of personal
taste leads to an existential crisis.
But the alternative is to not give a damn. And you know that type.
They tuck sweaters into jeans. They accept hand-me-downs from dead
uncles. Even their posture suggests the primitive. Maybe theyve been
married too long, or theyre clinically depressed, or theyre just missing
a crucial gene. Whatever the cause, they cant clean up. They are
hardwired to unimpress.
That type of man is immune from the Year-After Effect. He is, in
fact, more beast than man unchanging, unseeing. Thats a worse
fate than the uncertainty of your present wardrobe. A man, a proper
man, a man in full, makes himself vulnerable vulnerable to revision
and regret, to retrospection and reinvention. He knows his future self,
looking back, may be mortified by his proudest day. But in the end, he
knows, he will discover what works and what doesnt. By risking, by
trying, hell improve. He will outpace his lesser self something the
ape can never do.
A mans evolution along the scale of fashion mimics the species
as it climbs to greater heights. Who knows, maybe some day I will
know myself in the round, never to err and never to rue. In the
meantime, I muddle through, in splashy socks and a smart new blazer,
cocksure, uncertain, announcing my hope and my estrangement in
equal measure.
Joshua Ferris is an award-winning novelist
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The Essentials
NO.2
S I M O N GA R F I E L D
CONVERSE PERVERSE
THE SHOES THAT STILL HOLD COURT A CENTURY ON
hat is wrong with me? I like to think Ive grown up

a lot in the last decade. Ive got a divorce, had a lot
of good sex, married a brilliant woman, seen my
kids become young adults, improved my writing and
income, seen my hair turn silvery (ie, grey), read
more good books, learnt the value of things. And yet theres one thing
that hasnt changed, and may continue to betray me. Its on my feet:
Converse All Stars.
The ones Im wearing now are ankle-cut, have a leather upper,
charcoal, slightly battered but not yet disgraceful, not too stinky at all,
and yet I still feel slightly embarrassed that Im wearing the same shoes
I see four-year-olds wearing. And it feels slightly perverse to be sporting
essentially the same pair of shoes for almost 40 years.
I first knew something was wrong during my divorce. My soon-to-beex scored big points during a marriage-guidance session by suggesting
that my shoes at that stage probably some grey and purple high-tops
with a double tongue were a sign of immaturity, an inability to accept
the realities of life. I had no counter to that, and for the next session
I probably wore something else. But years later, and years older, Im back
in the old groove.
Actually, I probably did have an answer at the time: Theyre just
a pair of shoes Who was I kidding? Just a pair of shoes does not
survive a century of fierce competition to remain the irrepressible
slackerwear of choice for generations of youth. And while I am neither
a slacker nor young, I still wear them. They do not go into the cupboard
with the rest at the end of the day, but sleep out, waiting for action.
I should perhaps explain that I do wear shoes that are not Converse. I
do wear heavy boots when walking the dog on the muddy heath.
I wear a sort of desert boot when its wet. And I have open-toe sandals
when its scorchio. But the rest of the time, Im reliant on something that
established its reputation on a basketball court. (Im tall, 6ft 2in, but was
never much good at basketball. But then again I dont think the shoe was
much good for basketball, either. Theres no air in it, or no Air. Theres
not much padding to soften a leap to the hoop a fact that does not
appear to trouble the majority of wearers.)
The first pair I bought were industry standard: black. I was 14,
and matched them effortlessly with, cough, loon pants and a purple
velvet jacket I wore on Saturday outings with my unkissable Catholic
girlfriend an outfit best described as snazzy. I thought I was It.
I was 18 and on my first trip to New York when I saw a customised pair:
a black-and-white check, swiftly followed by bright colours. The
Converse variations seemed to mirror the Swatch ones, but theres only
one brand I can still wear. A couple of decades later, I was back in NYC
when I saw kids wearing Converse without laces, a trend Ive proudly
resisted (it just looks stupid). And Ive never gone for anything blingysparkly or Simpsons. I do not wear them with suits.
It is not easy to trace the fashion arc that has taken this shoe from the
locker room to the catwalk, but it is safe to say it was the first piece of
footwear to make the transition with such sneaky ease (and well before
those hip-hop boys did the same with Puma and Adidas). The thin black
line along the side of the sole, the star, an occasional chevron all these
came later. The shoe company began in 1908, with the Converse All Star
appearing nine years later. But hipness was only bestowed in 1921, when
basketball star Charlie Chuck Taylor bought a pair. And for about 30
years after that, hardly anyone but hoop players were seen in them.
The move towards streetwear began on the American campuses
in the late 1950s, from where the shoe slowly joined Levis 501s as
indestructible and affordable items of mild rebellion: you put them on,
you like yourself a little bit more. And the scuzzier the better.
The Converse has been much copied, of course, to the point where
anything with a hemisphere of thin white rubber at the toe reminds us
of the original. Converse says anti-establishment in the gentlest of ways:
a mild bohemian image that even survived the corporate takeover by
Nike a decade ago (the company may have sold out; its customers believe
they never will). And when Converse brought out a new, tougher pair
of basketball shoes for the modern game and called them The Weapon,
I dont think anyone ducked for cover. There was still a way to go before
they were Dr Martens or motorcycle boots.
I dont usually wear things that grown men shouldnt, like leather
trousers or baseball caps. My wardrobe has definitely smartened itself
up in the last 20 years. Occasionally, I even indulge in what may be the
ultimate sign of maturity: the ruthless clear-out. Recently, I got rid of
half of my clothes those shirts that were too baggy or too Boden,
several pairs of cords, loads of shapeless T-shirts. I ditched five
pairs of shoes, too, including a couple of pairs of Converse; merely
an excuse to get a new pair.
But why do I like them, really? Nothing feels as
comfortable (or comforting). Nothing is as easy to put on;
the tightness of the lacing reflecting ones approach to the
day. No one really looks twice, even at a 53-year-old in
them, apart from my ex-wife and perhaps friends
of my parents (and I should add that my ex-wife,
with whom I now have a very good relationship,
has probably long since stopped caring). So I
may wear them until Im 80, and think of myself
as an ever-vital Henry Miller/Jackson Pollock
type, and kids down my street will either regard
me as super-hip or someone to cross the street
to avoid. Ill console myself with a simple fact:
at least theyre not Kickers.
Simon Garfield is an award-winning non-fiction
authorandjournalist
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The Essentials
NO.3
CA RO L I N E E VA N S
FREUDS COAT
HOW CLOTHES REIGNITE MEMORIES OF
THE DEPARTED
An aged man is but a paltry thing,
A tattered coat upon a stick
William Butler Yeats, Sailing to Byzantium
n 1938, Sigmund Freud, founding father of psychoanalysis,

fled Nazi Vienna for London with his family. Elderly
and frail, the white-bearded man travelled in
a three-piece tweed suit, a tweed cap, and a
green loden overcoat acquired especially for the
journey: a conventional, bourgeois overcoat which
was, ironically, typical of the society whose political
ideology he was escaping. On the morning of June 5,
the party arrived at Londons Victoria station where
the 82-year-old, who had begun his journey in a
wheelchair, insisted on walking to a waiting taxi.
It had nevertheless been an arduous voyage for
Freud, who for many years had suffered from the
debilitating effects of the cancer of the mouth that
would later kill him.
Just over a year later, on September 23, 1939,
Freud died in his new home at 20 Maresfield Gardens,
Hampstead, surounded by his family and his collection of
books and antiquities. His youngest daughter, Anna, had
nursed him throughout his final illness; on his death,
she wrapped herself in his overcoat. Partly this can
be explained as a form of grieving. But perhaps
it also signified an ambition on the part of the
younger Freud, who was herself to acquire a
reputation as a distinguished psychoanalyst, to
assume the mantle of her father. And, indeed,
Anna continued to wear her fathers overcoat in
later life. In the Sixties, she donated his tweed
cap to the Freud Museum in Vienna, where
it hung with his walking stick on a coat rack
in the hall, as they had when he lived there.
Some 10 years later, the cap was briefly stolen
by an admiring fan, who occasionally wore
it, but who felt so guilty, and so disturbed by
the physical proximity to the great man which
the hat afforded, that, after discussing things with a
psychoanalyst, he returned it.
Death activates clothing in peculiar ways, as
if the garment takes over from the person. The
academic Peter Stallybrass has described feeling
overwhelmed by a physical sense of loss as he gave
a lecture dressed in the jacket of his recently deceased
friend and colleague Allon White. If I wore the
jacket, Allon wore me, he recalled. Above
all, he was there in the smell. And in
The Impossible Wardrobe, a 2012
collaboration between the fashion
curator Olivier Saillard and the
actress Tilda Swinton, the actress
held up the formal dress coat of
Napoleon Bonaparte to her nose.
Im certain I could detect a human
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smell, she later announced. In this improvised performance in a Paris

fashion museum, Swinton recounted how the clothes of the dead come
alive in the archive. One day, fashion, like life, stops. And the garment
takes on a new meaning.
Yet it can only do so because, throughout our lifetimes, it accumulates
the marks of lived experience. Our bodily imprint settles into the seams;
the DNA of our gestures moulds the garment into a ghostly negative
of ourselves. These ideas are based on what Stallybrass has called the
material mnemonics of clothing its power to invoke the body and
summon up the past. He describes how, in the 19th-century technical
jargon of sewing, the wrinkles in the elbow of a jacket were called
memories because they recorded the body that had inhabited the
garment. Is it fanciful to suggest that Freuds coat brought Vienna to
London, both as a transitional object and as an embodied memory?
His possessions followed later, including the famous couch, and the
Viennese study interior was recreated in Hampstead.
In the 1950s, the psychoanalyst Jacques Lacan
compared the ego to a series of overcoats taken from
the props cupboard. It doesnt take a shrink, however,
to know that clothing, identity and home are linked.
An overcoat is many things: armour, second skin, cocoon.
It provides an interface between the self and society, as
well as being a practical means of facing the world. Karl
Marx opened Das Kapital with a description of the coat
as a quintessential commodity whose use value could be
traced back to its labour value. But for the impoverished
Marx, living in London in the 1850s, his own overcoat had
a more practical function. He periodically pawned it in
order to raise cash for his young family. Yet, like Freuds
coat, Marxs was a vital symbol of respectability, and while
it was in hock, Marx was unable to gain entry to the British
Museum reading rooms to do the research required to
complete Das Kapital. Instead of going to the library, he was
forced to work at home in bed.
Marxs body is buried at Highgate Cemetery, while Freuds
ashes are at Golders Green Crematorium, both in north
London. The feckless Marxs coat is long gone, but that of
Freud, the good family man, survives. Today, it can be seen
in his London home, now the Freud Museum, where it has
its own glass showcase in the hall: at once a mini-museum and
a mausoleum, the showcase powerfully evokes both his physical
presence and his ideas. Freuds coat, like his life, was conventional,
though his theories were radical. The coat seems tiny, yet his
intellectual impact was immense. His polished boots,
nearby on the floor, are surprisingly large by contrast
with the coat. His personal effects, including
his notebook and wallet, their well-worn
leather buffed by contact with pockets and
fingers, sit in the same showcase. These
are poignant objects. Which of us does not
have a close relationship to such minutiae?
They bear the imprint of the everyday, and
are among the objects with which we have
the most intimate, if unreflective, rapport.
Psychoanalysis, the method Freud pioneered,
is often called the talking cure, and is
based on recovering lost memories, including
memories of the ostensibly trivial and
quotidian. Like the psychoanalytic method,
Freuds coat and his personal effects give
a clue to the complex narratives of a life,
their worn traces evoking absent bodies
and forgotten histories.
Caroline Evans is professor of fashion
history andtheoryatCentral Saint
Martins, London
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The Essentials
NO.4
G B RU C E B OY E R
A QUESTION
OF POCKETS
SO MANY, YOURE GOING TO NEED
A FILING SYSTEM
ere nuts about pockets! It hit

me the other day as I was idly
flipping through the latest batch
of catalogues that had come in the post.
Every one seemed full of parkas, coats,
vests, mackinaws and jackets, all chock-a-block with
pockets. Pockets inside, outside, on the sleeves,
in the collar, inside pockets. There were money
and pen pockets, passport pockets, pockets for
phones, binoculars, cameras, notepads, glasses,
flashlights. One jacket had bellowed cargo
pockets plus fleece-lined hand-warmers. Another,
two expandable double-divider cargo pockets with two-finger snap
closure on back. Several had game pockets.
One snappy item I spied was called a photographers jacket and
contained pockets with flaps, bellows, snaps, zippers and Velcro tabs
over the entire surface of the garment. It looked as though it was actually
constructed by sewing pockets together. Another garment, a travellers
vest, had no less than 17 pockets! My mind exploded. Huge bellows
pockets and teeny zippered pockets and hand-warmer pockets and
hidden pockets and game pockets. What the hell would I do with a game
pocket? Carry around a dead rabbit in Manhattan?
It got me thinking: sitting here in my redoubtable but rumpled
three-piece worsted, Ive got more than a few pockets myself. I began to
investigate. I like a waistcoat with a single-breasted town suit, and I find
mine has four pockets, with flaps on the bottom two. Waistcoat pockets
dont seem to be all that functional; the better fitted the waistcoat, the
less functional the pockets seem. Can they hold more than a car-park
stub? Eyeglasses, wallet, diary, tissues, Swiss army knife all make
silhouette-disrupting bulges, causing the coat lapels to buckle, or adding
another inch or two to the waistline. Which I cannot afford.
Turning out my waistcoat pockets, I find nothing but a paper clip and
a bit of napkin with an unfamiliar phone number on it.
My coats these days seem to have several pockets of various sizes:
three on the inside and four on the surface. I use the inside right chest
pocket for my wallet. I learned that from watching old crime films.
Pickpockets always go for the inside-right pocket, which led me to
understand thats where the wallet is supposed to be kept. The inside
left one I use for my pen and odd bits of paper like train schedules, or
flyers handed to me on the street that Im too embarrassed to refuse.
Usually, these flyers are promoting either a dry-cleaner, some new
religion, a takeout restaurant, or an all-nude review, which is even more
embarrassing when, back home, you finally get around to looking at it.
Below, I find Ive got a pocket just large enough to put two fingers
three-quarters down, an inch from the bottom. Im not sure what this
pocket is for. Im told and this is hearsay, you understand its to be
used for business cards, a comb, even condoms. I keep asking other men,
and I find most of them didnt even know they had a pocket there. I keep
forgetting to ask the tailor what its for.
Back on the outside of my jacket, Ive got four pockets; only two of
them are symmetrically placed. The two lower ones on each side at hip
level are convenient catch-alls for anything that will fit: a notebook,
paperback, iPhone, or half a bagel. I usually just use these side pockets
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for my hands; sometimes I hook my thumb over the

edge for that extra bit of nonchalant cachet. While
stuffing the right-side one, I usually catch my thumb
on an ingenious little pouch within. This hidden
pocket Ive found makes a great place to store a
few paper clips or a bit of napkin with a phone
number on it.
About three inches above the right-side lower
pocket is an identical but miniature one. Im led to
understand that this is called a ticket or change
pocket. Im sure its good for both of those, but its
really a perfect place to keep aspirin, for those special
moments when prayer doesnt seem to have the
more immediate effect one wants in a particularly
trying situation.
Then theres the left-side chest pocket. Id prefer to use this
pocket for my sunglasses, but usually the pocket is either too
deep or not deep enough note to self: must tell tailor
about this so they either slither down and make
an angular sort of bulge at my waist, which looks
rather like a surgeon had left an instrument in me,
or the glasses jut out before falling out entirely.
So I just use that pocket for a show handkerchief.
Of the trouser pockets, Ive got six. Two in the rear,
the right-side one open for the use of a functional handkerchief, and the
left-side one buttoned and empty. I experimented with a handkerchief
in the buttoned pocket, but came to the conclusion there was almost no
need to protect a cotton handkerchief from pickpockets and switched it
back to the right.
As with the jacket pockets, I often use the side trouser pockets for
my hands, and perhaps a few dollar bills. Deep in the right pocket is
an additional little pouch, a duplicate of the one in the right-side coat
pocket, and on which I usually catch my thumb, too. This little pouch
has been brilliantly engineered to hold small change without having it
roll out on the floor at inopportune moments. My personal opinion is that
the tailor who first devised this little container deserves a paragraph in
The Book of Inventions.
And finally, I discovered one day Id got a secret two-inch slit at the
waistband midway between fly and right-side pocket. Since I carry my
small change in the small change pouch in the right trouser pocket, I use
this secret small change pocket for my door key. Theres only so much
small change you can carry
It seems an incredible amount of pockets for three garments 17 in
all! and calls for a filing or inventory system worthy of a decent app.
Youve noticed, of course, the fellow on the train platform shaking his
head while patting himself down and finally turning all these little cotton
bags out in the hope of finding something. Talk of love all you want; real
ecstasy is discovering your keys in your pocket after all.
There is some universal law which states in effect that objects
accumulate slightly ahead of the available space in which to store them.
I found it more and more difficult trying to distribute a growing number
of necessaries about my person, and, too embarrassed to ask my tailor for
yet another pocket, took to carrying a bag. Over the years a mere wallet,
some cash, a handkerchief, and a pen have evolved into several pounds
of paraphernalia. My pockets have long since proved inadequate to the
challenge. I wanted something unmistakably masculine. An old fishing
creel worked for a while, as did a shotgun shell bag, but eventually I
settled on a slightly smaller-than-average leather briefcase that resembles
something in which a plumber might carry his best wrench. Its got a
handle and simple flap closure, and a divided inside pocket. About a week
after I started using it, I also noticed there was a small zip compartment
inside. I only wish Id have acquired the larger size bag now this ones
already at the rupture point, and I havent even squeezed in the calculator
and travel umbrella.
G Bruce Boyer is a style journalist and author
The Essentials
NO.5
J O S E P H ON E I L L
FATHER TO SON
THE WARDROBE CONNECTS ME TO MY
DAPPER OLD SELF
ne day, not long now, my sons will explore their fathers

wardrobe in the hope of finding something interesting.
I did the same when I was 15. In my fathers, I spotted a
skinny little silver silk tie from the 1950s very alluring
to me, in 1979 but not much else. Austin Reed shirts
and sports jackets of the kind Dustin Hoffman rocked in Kramer vs
Kramer were not my thing. My boys are also in for a let-down. They will
find a gloomy little cave with these sullen inhabitants: eight pairs of
socks, eight undershorts, two not-cool suits, one jacket, three 10-yearold collared shirts and a pile of fading T-shirts. Oh, and a few trousers,
of course way too large at the waist for the boys and, at this rate, way
too short; useless, unless they want to be clowns. Man hands down
misery to man. It deepens like an Ikea shelf. (My wardrobe is a onedoor Swede named Pax.)
Because they accurately see me as an unshaven, housebound oaf,
the boys are unlikely to be taken aback. They would be surprised as
I was, when I saw a photograph of my twentysomething father as a
pipe-smoking hat-sporter to learn that there was an epoch, somewhat
exotic and baffling in retrospect, when I dressed like a character in an
Hercule Poirot TV mystery. Im talking about my years as a student at
Cambridge, which Im now able to view with anthropological curiosity.
Ill bet that quite a few men of my generation those pushing 50 will
recognise this sartorial trajectory and, as they shuffle around in their
sneakers, will emotionally recall the brogues of their youth.
I had a skewed introduction to English fashion. I grew up in the
Netherlands, in The Hague, and belonged to a football and cricket club
that by chance was populated by haute bourgeois or would-be posh
types. As far as I could tell, sweaters meant Benetton sleeveless sweaters
with diamond patterns; socks meant Burlingtons, also
with diamond patterns; and shirts, in summer, of course
meant Lacoste shirts. Beige Ralph Lauren trousers were
big back then. Loafers were huge. The underlying dream
wasnt American preppy but mythic Britannic le style
Anglais, as our bon chic, bon genre French counterparts
put it.
This myth was fortified by my sister. She went to
boarding school in England and returned home with
secret knowledge about how to eat and what nouns to
use and what to wear; from her I learned that shoes were
crucial, and that I should instruct our mother to buy
me boxers, not Y-fronts. (The Sloane Ranger Handbook
would soon make public much of my sisters advice.)
But the decisive influence was the TV mini-series
Brideshead Revisited, which aired just before I went
up to Cambridge. I recently tried to re-watch it and was
dumbfounded by how camp it is and how unconsciously
flamboyant I must have been. Aged 17, I somehow missed
that aspect, maybe because I was too focused on the tweed
jackets Jeremy Irons wore, which had cuff buttons that
actually unbuttoned. Corduroy trousers, cufflinks, bright
jumpers thrown around the shoulders and knotted by the
sleeves, paisley ties under woolly V-necks: so it was all
true, that was how they dressed in England.
I bought my first tweed jacket at Billy Higgins, in
Limerick: a gentlemens outfitters apparently staffed by
prime ministers. The jacket was a Donegal tweed green
BBB
check. It was soft; it had cashmere in it (cashmere was really big). I wore
my jacket during my first week at Cambridge, with my brogues; and, just
as Id been led to believe, many of the other boys dressed the same way.
It was an okay, in-its-way urbane look, and sometimes a Japanese tourist
took your picture. The girls seemed not to mind: maybe theyd seen
Brideshead, too, and believed that inside a second-hand Hackett suit
there might be a straight Sebastian Flyte.
I wasnt a millionaire aristocrat, unfortunately; my father was a
construction manager from Cork, and my mother a French teacher
from Turkey. That wasnt fatal to the project of dressing up, because the
point wasnt to pass oneself off as a member of the English upper class
an unsustainable misrepresentation for 90 percent of the chaps in
dinner jackets, white linen suits and daytime bow ties (oh yes; you even
saw cravats).
What was the point, though? Its not easy to say. Id love to lay claim to
an intelligent, programmatic, subversive dandyism, but I just wasnt that
well-dressed. Nor was I ideologically sophisticated; not many of us were.
We may have voted Labour, supported the striking miners, boycotted
Barclays Bank over South Africa, and listened to The Smiths, The
Birthday Party and The The; we may have not been invited to join the
Pitt Club or go to hunt balls; but we did drink Pimms at garden parties;
we even played croquet, for f***s sake. When we graduated, most of us
became lawyers and bankers and management consultants. As a barrister,
I wore Thomas Pink shirts, court attire by Ede & Ravenscroft, and suits
made by an itinerant tailor from Yorkshire named Dale Rhodes. You dont
need to belong to the Frankfurt School to figure out that Cambridge did
its job.
Dale would drop by my chambers in the Temple, measure me up, and
hand-deliver five weeks later. Those are Dale Rhodes suits hanging in
my Ikea wardrobe. They have a boxy, baggy cut that isnt likely to come
into fashion soon. But they connect me, through the upheaval of decades,
to the last hurrah of a dapper self. The connection isnt embarrassing, not
any more, and in any case doesnt bear much examination. He was just a
kid, that guy who I was, not much older than my boys.
Joseph ONeill is an award-winning novelist and author
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BBB
The Essentials
ESQUIRE
APPROVES
Patek Philippe
Ref 5960/1A-001,
Dhs240,390
STEEL YOURSELF
TEST YOUR METTLE WITH PATEK PHILIPPES SPECTACULAR NEW TIMEPIECE
OULD YOU PAY a tad over Dhs12 million for a

stainless steel watch? (By tad we mean another
Dhs187,000.) In 2008, someone did, making his
Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Patek Philippe the secondhighest-priced wristwatch ever sold at auction.
While platinum or gold usually encase the worlds most
valuable timepieces, any collector will tell you that rarity is king,
and complicated steel Patek Philippes are astoundingly rare.
Even after the company introduced its sporty Nautilus in steel
in the 1970s its blunt slogan, One of the worlds most
expensive watches is made of steel its still big news when
Patek deigns to clad its more elaborate, multi-functional pieces
in functional metal.
It therefore comes as no surprise that watch lovers the world
over are going weak at the knees for this years Ref 5960/1A
(the A standing for acier steel in French). It replaces
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the outgoing rose gold and platinum models and retails at

Dhs240,390. With the new rose-gold version pitched some
Dhs84,845 northwards of that, this watch represents a fair
old price drop, even with gold prices hovering where they are.
Add the X factor of steel Pateks, and youre left with nothing
short of horological fireworks.
It contains the brands first proprietary self-winding
chronograph, originally launched in 2006, bolstered by an
annual calendar that only needs adjusting every leap year.
The chronographs bullseye monocounter displays minutes
and hours in a forehead-slappingly simple consolidated form
no subdials here and the sporty associations of steel are aided
by a new teardrop bracelet and racy colourway.
We cant promise that one of these will fetch you a couple of
mill at Christies in years to come, but if you can afford a Patek
like this, you wont regret it. patek.com
AUTUMN
2014 ISSUE
The
BIG WATCH BOOK

ON SALE NOW!
BBB
The Essentials
MEET THE RAG

& BONE MEN
TWO ENGLISHMEN IN NEW YORK MAKE
AMERICAN CLASSICS WITH A VERY
BRITISH SENSIBILITY
A MISCONCEPTION that
the fashion label Rag &
Bone is American. Sure, it
started out in New York, and the
brands urban aesthetic is in tune
with that city, but managing partners
David Neville and Marcus
Wainwright are both very British, and
met at a Berkshire boarding school.
The label was started in 2002,
producing exemplary denim.
Now their designs are coveted by
fashion industry insiders. All Rag
Its
& Bones clothes are beautifully

cut and constructed with an acute
attention to detail. Strong this season
are cotton twill worker suits, chunky
waffle-knit jumpers and slim-cut
overcoats in moody shades.
Rag & Bone is available in the
UAE in Harvey Nichols Dubai,
Bloomingdales Dubai and Boutique 1
(you wont leave empty-handed) and
is planning to expand soon. Below,
Neville and Wainwright describe
their favourite bits from A/W14.
KEMP II JACKET,
DHS2,089
A great, waxed cottonjacket
inspired by a classic caf racer;
a timeless piece everyone
should have.
BLACK SETH LEATHER JACKET

Dhs6,020
BLACK GR APHIC
T-SHIRT, DHS575
This style is in our signature calfskin leather and is

astripped-down, timeless piece.
Inspired by 1950s bowling and

work shirts; the graphic chain
stitching is verycool.
PIXEL RED/BLACK
PLAID SCARF,
DHS877
U.S. classics feature inthe
collection and we played with a
traditional buffalo check. It will
get a lot of wear this winter.
CAMOUFLAGE
JAMES TROUSERS,
DHS1,330
HEATHER GR APHIC
SWEATER
NAV Y GROSVENOR
WAISTCOAT
Dhs1,179
Dhs1,485
This is what a sweatshirt should be;

in Japanese terry [towelling] with
chain-stitch embroidery.
An iconic Rag & Bone style in

our trademark pinstripe wool
with contrasting lining.
BLACK KINGSLEY
JACKET
BLACK MARSDON
TUX TROUSERS
Inspired by vintage work

chinos. We madeit in a
Crye camo fabric, the result
of a partnership with Crye
Precision, a Brooklynbased company who
manufacture apparel for the
armed forces.
TAN ROWAN
BOOTS,DHS2,240
Modelled on authentic U.S.
work boots and Goodyearwelted so theyll last forever.
A classic style; we also make
them in suede.
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Dhs3,785
Dhs1,785
This is versatile: the detachable fur

collar is handy for warm days and
the pull tabs on the waistband are
ideal for layering. The large pockets
and custom zipper make for great
distinctive detailing.
A twist on the tux pant, made

in traditional barathea tux fabric
from [UK woollen mill] Abraham
Moon. The subtle dropping
of the crotch and added
articulation make it modern.
The Essentials
BBB
ETERNAL CLASSICS
ST Y L I N G A N D W O R D S B Y K AT E H A Z E L L . P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y E F R A I M E V I D O R .
THE NEW TODS BAG IS SET TO STICK AROUND
1956, Charles and Ray Eames wanted to make an updated version of the old English club chair, and went on to set new standards by
designing the now iconic Lounge Chair and Ottoman. Such a simple and classical design, yet the chair is still as relevant, not to
mention stylish, today. Which is how we feel about Tods Double Stripe bag. Launched in Spring 2013, the accessory has become a
contemporary classic that has set new standards when it comes to mens bags. This season, the Italian fashion house has added a new Script bag,
pictured here, to the Double Stripe collection; a roomy, non-fussy tote with a clean design. Available in 12 colours (and can be monogrammed with
your initials too, if you so wish), the spacious Script bag has two pairs of grips that allow the removal of an inner folder that can be used as a
separate bag. Handy if youre travelling for business and need only carry essentials to your meeting and want to leave the bulk of your goods back
at the hotel. Either way, the Double Stripe is here to stay, and worth investing in now if you want the best return on your money.
Available in The Dubai Mall, Galleries Lafayette Ground Floor, +971 4 382 7327. Leather Script bag, Dhs6,040, and suede Script bag, Dhs5,440, both
by Tods. Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman available in the UAE through ikonhouse, Dhs38,000, ikonhouse.com
In
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The
REALITY
of
GOOD
TASTE
Often, the magic and the fantasy of fashion result in
pieces that seem better suited to the catwalk than your
closet. But that neednt be the case. Here we take looks
straight from the shows and translate them into your
life, right now.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DELVIN XIAN

STYLING AND WORDS BY JASON LIM
ART DIRECTION BY REBECCA CHEW
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DIOR HOMME
Spotted jacket, Dhs14,500; spotted trousers, Dhs7,000;
tie, Dhs750; white shirt, Dhs2,300,
all Dior Homme
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CANALI
Wool suit, around Dhs5,999;
cashmere city over coat, Dhs5,999;
tie, Dhs570, and shirt, Dhs1,195, all
Canali
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ERMENEGILDO
ZEGNA COUTURE
Shirt, Dhs2,900, and green cardigan,
price on request, both
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
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LOUIS VUITTON
Double-breasted suit and wool coat, prices- on
request, both Louis Vuitton
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GUCCI
Jumper, Dhs4,150, Gucci
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BOTTEGA VENETA
Coat, Dhs5,250; zip-up top, Dhs3,550;
jersey trousers, Dhs3,250; boots,
Dhs3,599, all Bottega Veneta
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VERSACE
Roll neck, Dhs2,225, and coat, Dhs10,892, both Versace
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ALFRED DUNHILL
Blazer, Dhs6,907; knit v-neck,
Dhs2,185; shirt, Dhs1,710; tie,
Dhs844; corduroy trousers, Dhs2,169,
all Dunhill. Shoes, Dhs455, Vans
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PRADA
Cashmere top, around Dh3,000, and
blazer, around Dhs8,000, both Prada
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SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO
Jacket, from Dhs7,000; mohair trousers,
Dhs2,330; cardigan, Dhs4,621; pocket
square, Dhs533, and shoes, Dhs3,850, all
Salvatore Ferragamo
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PHOTOGRAPHS PRODUCED BY IMAGEROM.

GROOMING BY SHAWN GOH. STYLIST ASSISTED
BY IAN LOH AND PETER LIM.
MODEL: MARCELO/ANDREWS MODELS.
WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO THE CURIOSITY SHOP.
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EMPORIO ARMANI
Hooded jacket, around Dhs7,255,
Emporio Armani
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Style Rule
No.1
THE GHOST TIE

THE ABSENCE OF THE EXPECTED NECKTIE
CAN BE JUST AS POWERFUL AS THE
PRESENCE OF ONE, SINCE THEY KNOW
THAT YOU KNOW THAT ITS SUPPOSED TO
BE THERE AND YOURE GOING WITHOUT
ONE ANYWAY. ITS SUBVERSION AT ITS MOST
STYLISH, ESPECIALLY WHEN EXECUTED
WITH A CRISP WHITE SHIRT WITH A
STRUCTURED, STAND -UP COLLAR.
Wool coat (Dhs16,510), double-breasted
wool jacket (Dhs13,940), cotton shirt (Dhs2,555), wool
trousers (Dhs4,409), and silk scarf (Dhs1,565) by Ermenegildo
Zegna Couture.
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BROKEN
SUITS
& GHOST
TIES
WHAT WE TALK ABOUT WHEN
WE TALK ABOUT DRESSING UP
THIS AUTUMN/WINTER
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y
JENNY GAGE AND
TO M B E T T E R TO N
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85
Cashmere-and-cupro coat (Dhs4,759), two-button wool-and-viscose

jacket (Dhs2,920), cotton shirt (Dhs1,285), and wool-and-viscose
trousers (Dhs1,655) by Calvin Klein Collection; silk tie (Dhs606) by
Burberry London; leather shoes (Dhs2,865) by Churchs.
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Style Rule
No.2
THE BULLETPROOF JACKET

UNLIKE THE TYPICAL EIGHT TO
NINE INCHES OF SHIRT AND TIE
FRONTAGE, A DOUBLE-BREASTED
JACKET WITH AN EXCEPTIONALLY
HIGH BUTTON STANCE REVEALS
YOUR SHIRT COLLAR, YOUR TIE
KNOT, AND NOT MUCH ELSE, AND
THE EFFECT IS STREAMLINED
AND SCULPTURAL MILITARY
MEETS THE MATRIX AND ALL BUT
BULLETPROOF.
Double-breasted wool jacket (Dhs7,988), cotton
shirt (Dhs1,744) and wool trousers (Dhs3,030), by
Giorgio Armani; silk tie (Dhs550) by Etro.
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Style Rule
No.3
THE
NECK SAVER
HERE AT ESQUIRE STYLE HQ, WE
HAVE A RUNNING DEBATE ABOUT
WHETHER TO CALL THIS MANS
SWEATER A ROLLNECK (AS PER THE
BRITS) OR A TURTLENECK (AS PER
THE MERICANS). BUT WHY DONT
WE JUST CALL IT WHAT IT REALLY
IS A NECK-SAVER THAT SWAPS
IN EASILY FOR A COLLARED SHIRT
AND MAKES EVERYONE LOOK FIVE
POUNDS LIGHTER?
Two-button wool jacket (Dhs6,428) and wool
trousers (Dhs2,167) by Gucci; cashmere-and-silk
sweater (Dhs4,665) by Brunello Cucinelli; leather
shoes (Dhs3,489) by DiBianco.
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Two-button wool-and-mohair jacket (Dhs8,925),

cotton shirt (Dhs1,028), and wool-and-mohair
trousers (Dhs3,269) by Salvatore Ferragamo; silk tie
(Dhs275) by J. Crew; leather monk-straps (Dhs2,534)
by Fratelli Rossetti.
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Wool coat (Dhs9,898) and wool trousers (part of suit,

Dhs7,327) by Ralph Lauren Black Label; cotton shirt
(Dhs1,540) by Ralph Lauren Purple Label; leather shoes
(Dhs2,865) by Churchs.
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Style Rule
No.4
THE
BROKEN SUIT
THE JACKET AND TROUSERS DONT
MATCH NOT EXACTLY AND THE
SUBTLE CONTRAST IN TEXTURE
AND COLOUR PROVIDES ALL THE
FORMALITY OF A SUIT WITHOUT
THE (OCCASIONALLY) TIRESOME
SAMENESS.
Double-breasted silk jacket (Dhs7,254), cotton
shirt (Dhs1,744), and silk trousers (Dhs16,253) by
Dolce & Gabbana; wool tie (Dhs975) by Brunello
Cucinelli.
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Two-button wool suit (Dhs10,835), cotton shirt (Dhs2,258), and

silk tie (Dhs697) by Prada; leather shoes (Dhs2,497) by Fratelli
Rossetti; leather belt (Dhs918) by Ermenegildo Zegna.
GROOMING BY ENRICO MARIOTTI FOR SEE MANAGEMENT. LOCAL

PRODUCTION BY KARLIE MORASH. PHOTOGRAPHED AT TWO HULLS
HOUSE, MACKAY-LYONS SWEETAPPLE ARCHITECTS LIMITED. THANKS TO
THE NOVA SCOTIA TOURISM AGENCY.
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Style Rule
No.5
THE BIG,
BOLD COAT
WITH WIDE PEAK LAPELS THAT COULD
SWALLOW AN OCEAN AND A HEM THAT
BOTTOMS OUT AT OR BELOW THE KNEE,
ITS WARM ENOUGH FOR COME WHAT
MAY WHEN TRAVELLING THIS WINTER,
AND ITS DRAPES, FOLDS, AND CURVES
KEEP THINGS INTERESTING.
Camel-hair coat (Dhs13,590), two-button wool jacket
(Dhs13,149), cotton shirt (Dhs2,424), wool trousers
(Dhs3,856), and silk tie (Dhs789) by Louis Vuitton; leather
shoes (Dhs2,552) by Santoni.
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D O LC E & G A B B A N A
Dark brown double-breasted wool three-piece suit,
Dhs13,649; brown cotton shirt with key print, Dhs2,199;
red silk printed tie, Dhs829, all by Dolce & Gabbana
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A U T U M N
W I N T E R
2 0 1 4
THE
MENS
COLLECTIONS
P H O T O G R A P H S BY
TOMO BREJC
FA S H I O N B Y
GARETH SCOURFIELD
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95
B U R B E R RY
Multi-coloured wool jumper, Dhs2,135, by Burberry Brit. Floral-print cotton shirt, Dhs2,135; grey wool trousers, Dhs3,015, both by Burberry Prorsum
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J O H N VA R VATO S
Grey wool coat with leather detail, Dhs7,555; grey/blue textured wool
trousers, Dhs2,135, both by John Varvatos. Black felt fedora hat, Dhs700,
by Christys at Liberty (liberty.co.uk)
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B E LS TA F F
Olive cotton hooded jacket with leather detail,
Dhs4,235; grey cashmere jumper, Dhs2,499;
brown leather trousers, Dhs1,705, all by Belstaff.
Brown leather boots, Dhs1,096, by Timberland
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CO R N E L I A N I
Black Watch checked wool pea coat,
Dhs7,810; navy cotton jumper, Dhs2,085; white
cotton shirt, Dhs1,066; navy cotton trousers,
Dhs1,979, all by Corneliani
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ALFRED DUNHILL
Navy/red checked wool three-piece suit, Dhs10,665; blue/white striped cotton shirt, Dhs1,066;
paisley silk tie, Dhs578, all by Alfred Dunhill. Black Cotton Socks, Dhs75, by Falke
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LANVIN
Black wool double-breasted coat, Dhs18,979;
grey mixed wool scarf, Dhs1,005; turqouise wool
jumper, Dhs4,449; grey herringbone jogging
pants, Dhs7,919, all by Lanvin
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MONCLER
Grey quilted cotton bomber jacket, Dhs7,615; navy/white/red mohair
jumper, Dhs3,169, both by Moncler Gamme Bleu. Navy quilted cotton
trousers, Dhs2,745, by Moncler. Yellow cotton socks, Dhs121, by pantherella.
com. Burgundy leather brogues, Dhs3,015, by Burberry
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GIORGIO ARMANI
Grey patterned jersey jacket, Dhs8,285; grey patterned jersey waistcoat, Dhs3,777; Black cashmere
jumper, Dhs7,280; grey patterned jersey trousers, Dhs3,809, all by Giorgio Armani
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DIOR HOMME
Green cotton parka with shearling-lined hood,
Dhs25,589; blue denim shirt, Dhs3,777; black
wool pinstripe trousers (part of suit), Dhs3,777,
all by Dior Homme
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S A LVATO R E F E R R A G A M O
Beige wool/mohair coat, Dhs35,060; brown/gold wool/mohair jumper, Dhs5,270; navy wool trousers, Dhs2,491, all by Salvatore Ferragamo
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B OT T E G A V E N E TA
Brown/black checked wool coat, Dhs11,422;
grey cashmere sweater, Dhs5,330; grey flannel
jogging pants, Dhs3,667; brown leather boots,
Dhs3,930, all by Bottega Veneta
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RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

Green/purple checked cashmere three-piece suit, Dhs20,685; purple cashmere roll-neck, Dhs4,845,
both by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Tan leather brogues, Dhs3,049, by Ralph Lauren
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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
CO U T U R E
Blue/Grey dogtooth wool coat, Dhs33,455;
burgundy mixed wool roll-neck, Dhs6,885;
Navy/grey checked wool trousers, Dhs5,909,
all by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
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BRIONI
Grey cashmere coat, Dhs29,245; brown windowpane check mixed-wool suit, Dhs23,455; green cashmere roll-neck, Dhs3,945, all by Brioni
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B A L LY
White wool cable-knit roll-neck, Dhs2,745; black wool trousers, Dhs2,745, both by Bally
112
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B O SS
Grey herringbone wool coat with fur collar,
Dhs6,095; green/blue wool pinstripe suit,
Dhs3,535; white cotton shirt, Dhs665; black
silk tie, Dhs360, all by Boss
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LO U I S V U I T TO N
Blue/grey textured mixed cashmere coat, Dhs18,279;
navy wool trousers, Dhs5,485, both by Louis Vuitton
114
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115
H E R M S
Brown leather/sheepskin reversible bomber
jacket, Dhs53,000; green cashmere jumper,
Dhs6,459; green cotton trousers, Dhs2,255,
all by Herms
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ETRO
Brown/orange checked wool jacket, Dhs5,086; multicoloured checked wool waistcoat, Dhs3,840; blue cotton shirt, Dhs2,215; brown silk Prince of Wales
check tie, Dhs579; brown/orange checked wool trousers, Dhs1,705, all by Etro. Brown felt fedora hat, Dhs1,370, by Lock & Co
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PRADA
Blue wool jacket, Dhs7,435; multicoloured
cashmere knitted scarf, Dhs2,165; pink silk
shirt with contrast collar, Dhs3,259; blue
wool trousers, Dhs3,689; tan leather holdall,
Dhs14,316, all by Prada. Black cotton socks,
Dhs75, by Falke. Burgundy leather brogues,
Dhs3,505, by Jimmy Choo
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PA U L S M I T H
Grey wool coat, Dhs7,915; grey wool jumper,
Dhs1,888, both by Paul Smith
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G U CC I
Turquoise wool/cashmere jacket, Dhs7,495;
olive wool jumper, Dhs2,255; navy mixed
cashmere shirt, Dhs2,254; brown wool trousers,
Dhs2,865, all by Gucci
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121
VERSACE
Brown/grey checked wool blazer, from Dhs6,455; brown cotton roll-neck, from Dhs2,305; brown/grey checked wool trousers,
from Dhs2,255, all by Versace. Brown felt fedora hat, Dhs1,347, by Lock & Co
Photographers Assistant: Ben Parks | Fashion Assistant:

Stephanie Crain | Digital Operator: Jem Rigby I Production
Manager: Anna Gibson at Lo and Behold Production I Grooming:
Gary Gill for Emotive using Wella Professionals SP for Men &
MAC PRO I Model: Noah Huntley at Next Models I Winnebago:
George Dunkley | Shot on Location at Ogmore-by-Sea, Vale of
Glamorgan | see stockists page for details
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TO M M Y H I L F I G E R
Navy/pale blue wool roll-neck, Dhs885;
blue/grey checked wool trousers, Dhs945, both
by Tommy Hilfiger
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Cherishable
GOODS
THIS SEASONS MOST LUXURIOUS SHOES, BAGS, BELTS AND ACCESSORIES
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON PIETRA / FASHION BY GARETH SCOURFIELD
Brown leather
loafers, Dhs8,225;
navy leather
loafers, Dhs8,225,
both by Berluti
124
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Brown leather
tote, Dhs6,825;
navy flannel/
leather iPad case,
Dhs2,409, both
by Alfred Dunhill
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125
Green leather
holdall,
Dhs7,585; green
floral print
silk tie, Dhs725;
green boatprint silk tie,
Dhs725; green
fish print silk
tie, Dhs725, all
by Salvatore
Ferragamo
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Navy leather
weekend bag,
Dhs27,940;
burgundy
suede brogues,
Dhs5,575; navy
crocodile belt,
Dhs3,109, all by
Brioni
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127
Burgundy
leather oxfords,
Dhs3,445; brown
leather belt,
Dhs2,010, both by
JM Weston
128
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Blue suede loafers

with white sole,
Dhs1,950; navy
leather bag,
Dhs2,510; darkgreen-framed
sunglasses,
Dhs1,285, all by
Tods
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129
Brown/beige
leather/suede
weekend bag,
Dhs4,265; sand
suede brogues,
Dhs1,705, both
by Boss
130
ESQUIRE
Grey Damierchecked
leather bag,
Dhs45,685; navy
leather/suede
shoes, Dhs4,599;
purple silk tie,
Dhs1,465,
all by Louis
Vuitton
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Navy/burgundy leather
briefcase, Dhs13,470;
navy/burgundy
trainers,
Dhs2,755; burgundy
leather round-framed
sunglasses, Dhs3,332,
all by Dior Homme
132
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Burgundy leather
document case,
Dhs22,395; navy
leather gloves,
Dhs2,845; red/
white/blue
pattered silk tie,
Dhs810,
all by Herms
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BBB
The Accessories
PICKNMIX
UPDATE YOUR SUIT BY PLAYING WITH PLAYFUL ACCESSORIES
TOP ROW (FROM LEFT): Tie, Dhs800, Dolce & Gabbana at Saks Fifth Ave; Teal crochet tie, Dhs345, Ted Baker; Silver tie, Dhs475, Saint Laurent at Saks
Fifth Ave; Blue printed tie, Dhs440, Fendi at Saks Fifth Ave; Red crochet tie, Dhs345, Ted Baker. SECOND ROW (FROM LEFT): HTC One (M8) phones,
Dhs2,399 each, HTC THIRD ROW (FROM LEFT): Orange bow tie, Dhs355, Dsquared2 at Saks Fifth Avenue; Red polka dot tie, Dhs525, Saint Laurent at
Saks Fifth Ave; Navy bow tie, Dhs425, Saint Laurent at Saks Fifth Ave. FOURTH ROW (FROM LEFT): Spotted socks, Dhs65, Happy Socks; Pink socks,
Dhs95, Ted Baker; Spotted socks, Dhs65, Happy Socks; Blue socks, Dhs95, Ted Baker.
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ST Y L I N G A N D W O R D S B Y K AT E H A Z E L L P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y E F R A I M E V I D O R
Once youve got the navy suit nailed, its only your accessories that separate you
from the next guy, making them some of the most important wardrobe pieces you
can spend your money on. Choose ties with texture and depth, rather than punch
or print, and take time practicing knotting the knitted tie (the stretch makes it a bit
tricky at first). Seeing as most of us have a phone attached to our ear most of the day,
make it a good one. We love HTCs new One (M8) phones, which come in different
colours to suit the mood or man. Bow ties, whether bright, playful or plain, still add
fun to any formal occasion, but for the more reserved gent, just add colour with your
socks. Hardly anyone need know.
Grooming
BBB
THE SCENT OF WINTER

ITS TIME TO UPDATE MORE THAN YOUR WARDROBE FOR A/W14.
ESQUIRE SNIFFS OUT THE COMPLEMENTARY FRAGRANCES
F R ES H
TERRE DHERMS
EAU TRS FR ACHE
Most fragrance experts (not to mention perfumers
a tricky bunch) would find very little to fault
with Herms classic Terre dHerms, an incredible
synthesis of bright orange, woody vetiver and spicy
peppercorn. The latest take on the scent, Eau Trs
Frache, is equally impressive, containing added
water notes and bright strains of geranium.
Dhs469 for 125ml
S P I CY
W O O DY
EMBLEM
BY MONTBLANC
WONDEROUD BY COMME DES GARONS

An even woodier take on Commes 2010 fragrance
Wonderwood, Wonderoud is focused solely on the sweet,
woody, balsamic note of oud (the sap produced when a
particular fungus attacks the heartwood of gyrinops trees).
One to go for if youre feeling particularly bold or looking to
feel like more of a Middle East native.
Dhs410 for 100ml at Paris Gallery
PHOTOGRAPH BY WILL THOM 99
Packaged in a beautiful Bundt

cake-shaped bottle, Montblancs
latest has spicy undertones created
by the addition of cinnamon,
cardamom and tonka bean. Wear
this one on the slopes.
Dhs379 for 100ml
A Q U AT I C
F R ES H
C I T RUS
ACQUA ESSENZIALE BLU

BY SALVATORE FERR AGAMO
LORPHELINE
BY SERGE LUTENS
BLEU DE CHANEL
BY CHANEL
An oceanic update on Ferragamos

Acqua Essenziale, launched last year,
Blu is a bold fragrance built around
citrus notes of bergamot, spicy sweet
cardamom, soft lavender and edible
tonka bean. Its an aquatic fragrance
suited to the winter months.
Dhs365 for 100ml
Yes, you read that correctly The

Orphan. Sad. Inspired by his childhood
as an orphan in France, Serge Lutens
autobiographically personal scent is a
somber, elegant fragrance with stony,
softly spicy accords. Wear if youre
feeling dangerously perky.
Dhs535 for 50ml
Chanel has launched a stronger,

winter version of its 2010 citrusy,
woody scent Bleu. Containing
a higher concentration of the
fragrance essence and added
notes of velvety amber, this is
more intense and lasts longer.
Dhs485 for 100ml
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Grooming
THE NEW OUD

COMME DES GARONS NEW SCENT, WONDEROUD, WONT SMACK YOU IN THE FACE
uilt as a variation of
Comme de Garons
Wonderwood, which was
released in 2010, Wonderoud is a
subtle incarnation of woods blending
patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and
guaiac wood around the rich
character of oud. But while the
ingredient, which comes from the
wood of the tropical Gyrinops tree,
has the tendency to overpower
anything within its reach,
Wonderoud is a well-rounded subtle
scent that might just convince even
the most ardent of oud sceptics to
give it a spritz.
Comme Des Garons doesnt do
fragrances that interrupt the aura of
somebody else, you know? explains
Comme CEO Adrian Joffe to
Esquire. Your fragrance is for you,
not for anyone else, which is the
beauty of Wonderoud. Why would
you want to push your fragrance in
everyone elses face when youre the
one wearing it?
The key to the new scent is
its tricky composition, layering
the wood notes around the heart,
instead of the bottom, like most
woody chypre perfumes. The
secret is the balance that we tried
to get, with oud being the ultimate
incarnation; the gold of wood if you
like, explains Joffre. Its not in
your face, and Id like to think itll
convert any oud-shy scent wearers
out there.
Dhs410, available at
Paris Gallery
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W O R D S A N D ST Y L I N G B Y K AT E H A Z E L L . P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y E F R A I M E V I D O R .
Grooming
BBB
PLAY THEFIELD
STRAY FROM YOUR EVERYDAY SCENT WITH ASPORTY LITTLE NUMBER
Loewe Pour
Homme, Dhs379
for 100ml
7 Loewe Sport,
Dhs370 for 100ml
Loewe Esencia
Sport, Dhs450
for 100ml
Solo Loewe
Sport, Dhs370
for 75ml
adrid-based luxury brand Loewe (pronounced low-ayvay) turned heads last year after it appointed celebrated
British fashion designer JW Anderson to be its new
creative director. Loewes fragrances have also had a refresh with
the relaunch of four signature scents woody Loewe Pour Homme,
spicy Solo, green Esencia and vibrant 7 in four sporty new guises.
Wisely maintaining the smart original bottle shapes, the new sport
editions are unified by the rich metallic shade, with aquatic and
citrus notes, to invigorate and make the prospect of the treadmill
that little bit more bearable. loewe.com
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Grooming
Grooming
A
CUT-THROAT
BUSINESS
ATOMIC MICROSCOPES,
LAWSUITS, SECRET
RESEARCH FACILITIES,
HIPSTERS, MORE
LAWSUITS, A FRANKLY
RIDICULOUS NUMBER
OFBLADES, YOUTUBE
SPOOFS AND EVEN
ROCKET SCIENTISTS.
JOHNNY DAVIS
INVESTIGATES THE
REMARKABLE DHS124BN
GLOBAL MARKET FOR
SAFETY RAZORS
GILLETTE BLUE II
I N T RO D U C E D 1 976
This twin blade with fixed

head is sold in multipacks.
The cheapest Gillette razor
(Dhs1.5), it fits the current
company policy ofhaving a
razor atevery price point.
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EAVE THE M4 MOTORWAY

from London at Junction 11,
follow signs to the Madejski
Stadium and a mile down
the road youll come to the
Reading Innovation Centre:
8,500sqm of redbrick
industrial space, it was
established in 1959 by Gillette
to better understand the way men shave. Go through
swishy double doors and past reception and inside
youll find a maze of strip-lit corridors and individually
numbered laboratories, all populated by men and women
in white coats studying computers, collating data and
scientifically analysing the results. Around 120 chemists,
biologists, pharmacists and aeronautical engineers
work here, employees of Gillettes huge multinational
parent company, Procter & Gamble, in the research and
development of safety razors.
Every day at 7.45am, up to 80 volunteers pass
through these doors, members of the public who swap
their individual pin code for a red plastic tray containing
a new prototype razor and some shaving cream. Then
they go behind a white curtain, line up in cubicles in
front of two-way mirrors and shave. From this point,
every one of their actions from the time spent
prepping their faces to the angle and the frequency of
each razor stroke, and even their grip on the handle
are recorded by banks of monitors and cameras, some
that track the shave at up to a quarter of a million frames
per second. Sometimes more cameras, really tiny ones,
are mounted in the backs of the razor cartridges.
Afterwards, these Daily Test Shavers are asked to
rate their experience, ticking off 70 different attributes
(amount of razor drag, ease of rinsing and so on) and
record
their findings on a diagrammatical face map.
r
Then
theyre interviewed about the results. After that
T
there
might be another round of tests to assess the
t
impact
on their skin, using powerful microscopes. The
i
results
allow Gillettes engineers to go back and tweak
r
whatever
conceptual drawings theyre working on and
w
render
new razors using rapid polymer prototyping
r
3D printers that the company had to design and
build
itself.
b
People say shaving isnt rocket science, but it is,
Dr
D Kristina Vanoosthuyze, one of Gillettes principal
scientists,
tells me. We had a rocket scientist who came
s
to
t us from British Aerospace. Gillette has introduced
just
j two new razor lines in the last 14 years: Mach 3
(1998)
and Fusion (2006). On each they spent around
(
Dhs2,754m
in research and development costs.
D
hen you think about it (although theres

no particular reason why you should have
thought about it), the safety-razor business
iis pretty weird. Indeed, the safety razor itself is pretty
weird. Theres nothing else in the consumer goods
w
ssector like it. On the one hand, its a prosaic piece of
plastic and metal designed to be thrown in the bin as
p
ssoon as its life is over. On the other, it represents the
vvery apex of precision engineering and medical knowhow, literally cutting-edge science. Take Gillettes
h
Fusion ProGlide Power Razor. It contains more than 60
F
Grooming
different parts. Its so complicated there are only two

factories in the world that can make it. Each of its six
blades are spot-welded 13 times thats 78 welds per
cartridge. (Gillette does more welding than many car
manufacturers.) Those six blades are now so thin far
thinner than, say, a surgeons scalpel that scientists
have to examine them using atomic microscopes, the
same ones Nasa uses. At their tips, they measure 25
nanometres, narrower than the wave of visible light.
Then theres all the other add-on tricks that come with
todays safety razors. The battery-powered ProGlide
Power Razor contains a voltage controller to regulate
its vibration and a microchip that knows when its being
used. Accidentally leave it switched on in your wash bag
and after eight minutes it will turn itself off.
Little wonder Gillettes Innovation Centre is
something to behold. At least, Im sure it would be if I
was allowed to see it. The truth is that outsiders, let alone
journalists, are seldom allowed in. Dr Vanoosthuyze, an
enthusiastic and entertaining speaker with Belgian roots,
talked me through all the above in a hotel bar recently,
using photos and videos shed bought along with her
on her laptop. Its not easy to get in, she explained.
Theres a lot of intellectual property there, we are quite
protective of that.
Indeed, the shaving industry is unlike any other
consumer goods sector in other ways, too. The level
of secrecy easily outstrips anything Ive come across
reporting on the car industry, the space industry, the
movie business or Google. Presumably thats because
theres even more money at stake. Procter & Gamble,
who own 300 consumer brands including Crest
toothpaste, Duracell batteries and Head & Shoulders
shampoo, say their products are used by 4.2bn of the
6.5bn people alive today. They also control 60 percent of
the planets Dhs124bn shaving market, having acquired
Gillette nine years ago in a blockbuster deal worth
Dhs209bn in cash and shares.
This explains why for the first hour of our
conversation, Vanoosthuyze is open and animated
before suddenly becoming rather agitated, dropping
her voice to a whisper and tilting her laptop screen
shut. Eventually, I twig why: two men have joined us on
the other side of the bar. Theyre certainly doing a good
impression of colleagues whod knocked off work early
on a Friday for a quick drink before home. But who
knows? They could work for Wilkinson Sword. The
two companies have been at each others throats for
years, locked in a long-running series of disputes over
razor patents and advertising claims. Gillettes nearest
rivals claim 18 percent of the shaving market, with
brands like Bic and newcomers such as King of Shaves
owning the rest.
I had hoped to speak to Wilkinson Sword for this
story. At first they agreed, saying that though a visit to
their High Wycombe HQ or an interview with one of
their scientists wouldnt be possible, I could speak with
its product manager, Hayley Napier. Then I was told
Napier would only respond to questions by email. Then
that her answers needed to be approved by Wilkinson
Swords lawyers. Then that there were delays with the
answers. And finally, that the lawyers approval wouldnt
be ready by the time Esquire went to press. So instead I
BBB
asked the softest question I could think of: What makes

Wilkinson Sword razors so great?
The Wilkinson Sword product range meets the
needs of the everyday man, they eventually wrote back.
Wilkinson Sword is confident it has something for all
types of facial hair.
n attack of nerves and shaving should never go

together. But the shaving industry is currently
having an attack of nerves like never before.
For the first time since 1901, when the disposable blade
was invented by King C Gillette (a travelling salesman
with a Philadelphia bottling company who figured that
there might be money made elsewhere from a business
where people kept hold of his bottles but had to
replace the corks with every few uses), its sales are in
decline. For the reasons why, we must look to hipsters
and their beards. Despite sounding like something
thats come straight off the pages of satirical news
website The Onion, the rise of the hipster beard has
genuinely been acknowledged as one reason why razor
companies are having a tough time of it. (Last year,
Gillette took the unprecedented step of launching a
moustache and beard trimmer, the ProGlide Styler.
And its presumably what Wilkinson Sword are
addressing with their comment that it has something
for all types of facial hair razors for men who dont
like to shave.) Other factors include a more relaxed
dress code in the office and high unemployment in
Southern Europe, which has left jobless men with less
reason to shave. Then theres George Clooney, Brad
Pitt, David Beckham and all the other celebrities who
have at some point recently abandoned the cleanshaven look.
If you look at magazines in Western Europe,
all the male models have beards or stubble, Nicole
Tyrimou says, an analyst at the market intelligence firm
Euromonitor, who forecast the UK shaving market will
shrink by 0.8 percent this year.
What would have been described as the yuppie
look very smooth-skinned is so unfashionable
now, says Mark Tungate, author of Branded Male:
Marketing To Men and other books on the business of
grooming and fashion. Its cooler now to be creative
than it is to be wealthy. Nobody wants to look like a
banker anymore.
And if the razor companies might be tempted to
brush off the European hipster beard as a fad, in the US
theyre facing irritations that could be harder to ignore
long-term. There, razor subscription services like Dollar
Shave Club, a company who manufacture basic but
functional razors in Asia and sell them directly through
their online site at a significant discount, are on the rise.
Sign up and a years supply of 60 twin-blade cartridges
is yours for Dhs3.6 a month. Dollar Shave Club say
they had 12,000 customers within 48 hours of launch.
By the end of their first year, theyd made Dhs36.7m.
Its something thats brought genuine disruption to the
market, to use the marketing parlance.
Dollar Shave Club is the idea of a journalist and
advertising video producer called Michael Dubin and
his mates fiances retail-savvy dad. What the pair
lacked in Gillette or Wilkinson Swords multi-billion-
GILLETTE SLIM
ADJUSTABLE
P RO D U C E D 1 9 61 86
Held a double-edged razor

blade with a twist-to-open
feature, then considered
technologically advanced.
James Bond shaves with one
on Goldfingers plane in the
1964 movie, before removing
a tracking device from the
handle.
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Grooming
BBB
GILLETTE MACH3
I N T RO D U C E D 1 998
The first three-blade

razorwith five microfins,
spring-loaded blades
and pivoting head cost
Dhs2,754m to develop.
Its blue lube strip faded
with use, encouraging
cartridge replacements.
dirham marketing budgets and endorsements from

razor online then they will. All the research shows that
Roger Federer, Thierry Henry or Tiger Woods they
men buying grooming products online is on the up, and
made up for with clever use of social media. A YouTube
theres good reason for that.
video in which Dubin, who also happens to be an improv
Obviously, the razor-blade companies, like any
comic, variously rides a forklift, plays tennis and dances
company, have to keep persuading you to buy new
with a bear, proclaiming Our blades are f***ing great!,
products or else they havent got a business. And where
became a viral hit. At the time of writing, its been
the beauty industry, particularly the female beauty
watched 15 million times. Another American start-up,
industry, traditionally market their latest wares on
Harrys, entered the market last
science telling customers that a
March, and by January had raised
new tub of white cream is better
enough money to buy a razor factory
than their current tub of white
in Eisfeld, Germany. In the US, it
cream because theyve enriched it
FOR THE FIRST TIME
sells its preppily named, retrowith peptides, marine extracts and
SINCE 1901 WHEN
branded traditional razor kits The
coenzymes and given it a sciencey
THE DISPOSABLE
Truman Set and The Winston Set,
sounding French name razor
BLADE WAS INVENTED
through J Crew and The Standard
blades are marketed to men on
boutique hotels.
performance. The closest, most
BY PHILADELPHIA
Men tend to buy stuff that
comfortable shave the best a
TRAVELLING SALESMAN
looks good on the shelf, so when it
man can get. Traditionally, thats
KING CGILLETTE
came to the design of razors it used
meant adding another blade. Youll
to be How can we make a razor
recall the slogan that most famously
ITS SALES ARE
that looks like a Porsche? Mark
trumpeted the advantages of
INDECLINE
Tungate says. Now were in the
multiple blades: the first blade lifts
middle of a retro trend so theres
the hair, the second cuts it and the
a whole demographic that doesnt
third cuts it even closer
want a razor that looks like a Porsche, they want a razor
It was Gillette that first added a second blade in 1971
that looks like a vintage Morgan. Theres also a vogue for
with its Trac II. Then in 1998, it introduced the threestraight and cut-throat razors and old-fashioned safety
blade Mach3, accompanied by a Dhs1,001m marketing
razors, like your grandad used. But razor companies
campaign and adverts that showed a fighter jet breaking
have always been in the business of selling you the
through the sound barrier. (As the jet broke through
future, so where does that leave them? Because they
Mach 3, the pilot morphed into a man in the bathroom,
cant go back. They cant say, Actually, you dont need
where a razor flew into his hand.) Wilkinson Sword
five blades, you just need one really sharp one.
fought back with the Quattro four blades in 2003.
Never buy overpriced razors again, advises
Then the injunctions started flying: within hours of the
Harrys website. Or as Michael Dubin says in the Dollar
Quattros announcement, Gillette filed a Dhs73m patent
Shave Club video: Do you think your razor needs a
infringement claiming theyd illegally incorporated
vibrating handle, a flashlight, a back-scratcher and 10
elements of Mach3 blade technology. Though Gillettes
blades? Do you like spending Dhs73 a month on brandpatent referred to three blades, their lawyer said it
name razors?
applied to any three blades similarly aligned, regardless
of whether they were part of a four-, five- or 20-blade
razor. (The court dismissed Gillettes claim.)
h yes, the price. The fact that the big razor
The following year, it was Wilkinson Swords turn
companies make their money from selling
to attack Gillette. A new battery-powered version
you a relatively cheap handle that only fits
of Gillettes Mach3, the M3 Power, was marketed as
one kind of expensive blade isnt news. Its the same
shaving closer than any other blade on the market.
business model thats since been adopted by makers
Wilkinson Sword disagreed. In court, Gillettes claim
of pens and their refills, inkjet printers and their
was proven to be technically right tests showed
cartridges and coffee machines and their pods. No man
an advantage of 0.0143mm. Though, since that
likes walking into Boots to buy new razor cartridges
measurement was neither visible nor noticeable
because not only is there the faff of getting the staff
to the consumer, it was deemed misleading. Gillette
to unlock those security protected perspex boxes,
were served with a cease-and-desist claim and made to
which automatically makes you feel like a criminal
pay Dhs6.79m fees.
its difficult to shake the idea youre being ripped off.
Then in 2006, the first five-blade razor, the Gillette
(One of the weird stipulations of Wilkinson Sword
Fusion, arrived. Its actually a six-blade razor if you
agreeing to be in this article at all was that I didnt
include the one on the back designed for tricky places
mention the price of any of their products. Most
like under the nose and sideburns. Wilkinson Sword
brands get upset if you dont mention the price of their
launched their own five-blade razor, the Hydro 5
products, magazines like this one being at least partly a
Power Select the only powered razor with three
glossy advert for new things.)
vibration settings, giving you the ultimate shave
In fact, lets be honest, no man really likes walking
comfort in 2012.
into Boots, full stop.
Along the way, both companies have added any
If men can avoid shopping for intimate personal
number of lubricating strips, micro-fins, anti-friction
items, they will do so, Tungate says. Going into Boots is
blades, spring-loaded blades, low-resistance titanium
not an ideal fun thing for them. So if they can get a cheap
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Grooming
coatings, pivoting heads, ergonomic rubberised

grips, streamlined comfort guards, micro-combs,
flip trimmers, hydrating gel reservoirs and vibrating
handles. The newest version of Gillettes Fusion
operates by sending out something called soothing
micro-pulses designed to improve razor glide. It turns
shaving into gliding, claim the adverts.
Naturally, all this has been ripe for parody: Will
Ferrell has a skit about a Platinum Mach14, while
Australian TV viewers are familiar with a joke advert for
a razor featuring 16 blades and 75 lubricating strips: The
first blade distracts the hair, while the second and third
blades sneak up behind it F*** Everything, Were
Doing Five Blades was a headline that actually did run
in The Onion less than two years before five blades
became a reality. In 2011, Gillette even spoofed itself,
producing a clip for the 80-blade MagmaCore Extreme
that featured a lot of fire and a shirtless man impressing
a lady by forging a piece of steel on an anvil. (To find
out more about our actual new razor, visit facebook.
com/gillette) Sadly, none of these observations were
particularly original. The very first episode of the
American TV institution Saturday Night Live featured a
spoof advert for the Triple Trac Razor. And that was
shortly after a two-blade cartridge had first appeared, in
the Seventies.
Now its unlikely we will ever see a seven or eightblade razor. The limitations of space have started to
kick in. The science behind adding blades is based on
something called progressive geometry or what Gillette
has trademarked the hysteresis effect, where the
blades work in concert to pull whiskers out from the
skin as they slice into them. Second and subsequent
blades engage hair further down the hair shaft, so that
each passing blade cuts closer than the one before
(The first blade lifts the hair etc). By the time a fifth
blade comes along, the hair is actually cut a little below
the skins surface. Shaving with a five-blade razor is
equivalent to shaving five times with a single blade, but
only if you get the spacing just right between the blades
(were talking microns).
If you add blades but keep them at the same
distance, you cause too much friction, Dr Vanoosthuyze
says. Its a bit like the principal of the fakir who lies
on a bed of nails. If he lies down and there are many
nails close together, then hes alright. But if theres a
couple of nails here and there so the weight is not evenly
distributed, theres discomfort. So you probably wont
see a seventh or an eighth blade because theres a limit to
how big you can make that razor. You still have to get it
under your nose. But, of course, we have tried a sixth and
a seventh. Of course we tried that.
For the foreseeable future, Gillette plans to stick with
the five-blade (plus the one on the back) Fusion cartridge
system it introduced in 2006. That doesnt mean its run
out of new things to sell us. Instead of bringing a new
cartridge to market, it is about to do something that
upends the business model based on cheap handles and
expensive blades. Its launching an expensive handle.
The ProGlide FlexBall was developed in Reading and
came out in the US in April. It is expected to go on sale
in the UK this autumn (Gillette wont comment on
launch dates). Retailing in the US for a record Dhs69
(Dhs76 for the battery-powered version), the FlexBall

is reminiscent of a Dyson vacuum cleaner in that it
features a swivelling ball-hinge so that the cartridge
pivots, allowing it to move forward and back, and left
and right but in a controlled manner. Gillette say that
means the blades miss 20 percent fewer hairs with each
pass, and cut each whisker 23 microns shorter about
a quarter of the width of an average human hair. They
plan to sell Dhs690m worth of them in the first year,
and are deploying a Dhs734m marketing budget to help
do so. By this point, you might reasonably ask how close
a shave you actually need. Twenty-three more microns.
I mean, could you, let alone anybody youre actually
bothering to shave for, really tell? Arent we back to
measurements that are neither visible nor noticeable
to the consumer?
Indeed, the ProGlide FlexBall has already been met
with what might politely be called a mixed reaction.
Theres been a fair amount of lampoonery. Others are
actually angry. One magazine went as far as to call it
everything thats wrong with American innovation
suggesting that market-driven myopia is being put
before investment in other areas of engineering, and
pointing out that while Procter & Gamble was engaged
in its latest absurdity, China was busy 3D-printing
houses. Of course, the suggestion that the razor
companies are spending a hair-raising amount of money
on first developing and then selling us something we
dont really need is one theyve heard before.
Before we launch something, our research and
development department have to prove to the company
that something like [the ProGlide FlexBall] outperforms
the previous generation in a way that is significant,
measurable and meaningful, Dr Vanoosthuyze says.
Usually by 2:1. Everything [on the razor] is there for a
reason and everything is there because guys have told
us that it brings a significant benefit to the quality of
the shave. Only then will the company sign something
off and invest in the machines to produce the razors,
which, again, can take years and hundreds of millions of
dollars of investment.
Vanoosthuyze points out that theyd actually
developed the hysteresis effect and multiple-blade
spacing in the Seventies. It took them until the 1990s
to work out how to make the cartridges.
having is more complicated than you might

think. When you imagine hair growing out of
skin, you perhaps imagine a biology-textbook
diagram of a follicle shooting out of a solid cube, like
a sapling rising out of the ground. Thats quite an
oversimplification. Hair is embedded in the skin, and
skin isnt flat like a sheet of paper. Its a soft matrix
that has a texture to it, and undulates. Beard hairs
are incredibly tough. They have the same strength as
copper wire. For a razor to work effectively, it has to
cut as easily as possible through hair with minimum
force and as close as is achievable to the skin without
catching the skin. Whats more, everyones face
is different; everyones hair growth patterns are
different. Even if you think youre shaving with the
grain of the hair, the reality is a razor blade needs to
tackle hairs from all different angles. Also, skin is
BBB
WILKINSON SWORD
QUATTRO
I N T RO D U C E D 2 0 03
The first four-blade razor

drew a losing Dhs73m
patent infringement
from Gillette, who said
it used Mach3 blade
technology. Fiveversions
followed: Wilkinson
Sword Quattro: Quattro
Midnight; Quattro
Titanium; Quattro Power;
Quattro Titanium Power;
andQuattro for Women.
ESQUIRE
141
Grooming
BBB
GILLETTE FUSION
I N T RO D U C E D 2 0 0 6
Five blades on the front, one

on the back for tricky sideburn
trimming. Its marketing
campaign was fronted by Roger
Federer, Tiger Woods and
Thierry Henry. Gillette aims to
keep the Fusion cartridge for
the next five to 10 years.
KING OF SHAVES
HYPERGLIDE
I N T RO D U C E D 2 0 1 4
First razor to eschew

shaving foam, it features a
self-lubricating cartridge
that activates with water.
Also includes a Bendology
Technology Active-Flex hinge
the harder you push, the
closer you shave. Took four
years and Dhs30m to develop.
142
ESQUIRE
irregular. Cheek skin tends to be a lot flatter than neck

skin, for example, so neck hairs tend to grow at a lower
angle, with many of the hairs not fully protruded and
trapped under the skin. Thats why the neck tends to
be a bit of a torture area for redness and irritation. You
can significantly improve matters by having a shower
before you shave, rather than the other way round.
Thats because hair is made out of the protein keratin,
and proteins have a high affinity with water. Once the
hair takes on water, it becomes much easier to cut. The
next problem for the razor companies is that no two
people shave in the same way. The pressure we put on
razors can typically vary from 50 grams all the way up
to two kilograms. Some people take 30 strokes to shave,
some take 700. Dr Vanoosthuyz showed me footage
speeded up of one of Gillettes Daily Test Shavers
who took 24 minutes to complete his shave. He stopped
to lather up four separate times. It was like he was
performing a ritual. Very slowly.
Its not like he looked better groomed afterwards,
Dr Vanoosthuyz said. Its just that for some guys
shaving is key. Its the main thing in their grooming.
To design one product that deals with all of that is
pretty hard. Which is partly why Gillette, with all their
millions of dollars of investment and top-level scientists
and engineers and their fancy research centre have
such a hold on the market. But that hasnt stopped other
people trying.
he offices of King of Shaves are in the market

town of Beaconsfield, 25 miles outside London.
They sit above a Waitrose, next to the police
station. It was a particularly nice morning when
I visited recently and the local library had left its doors
open. You could hear schoolchildren inside singing
nursery rhymes. I waited for the companys founder,
Will King, in a meeting room adjacent to their offices.
Inside, there was a trophy cabinet displaying a number
of awards including one for Entrepreneur of the Year
and an outsized white throne, a promotional King of
Shaves gimmick. Including their founder, the company
employs a total of 17 people.
King, who hails from the UKs Suffolk, is one of the
original dot-com entrepreneurs, buying the url shave.
com for Dhs212 in 1995 and setting up business shortly
afterwards. Initially, he sold shaving oil, after he realised
his girlfriends bath oil stopped him getting razor
burn. In 2008, he launched his first razor, the Azor. It
featured four blades and a flexible hinge and, together
with the Azor 5 launched in 2011, eventually sold well
enough for King of Shaves to claim three percent of
the market. Earlier this year, he launched a new razor.
The Hyperglide took four years and Dhs30m worth of
development and its USP is to do away with as many
fancy extras as possible, including the need for shaving
gel or oil. Instead, the whole cartridge is coated in a
water-activated lubricant.
King turned out to be a British entrepreneur in
the classic eccentric mould. Manic, chatty and with a
penchant for Richard Branson-style stunts (he once
promoted his products using a megaphone at Hyde
Parks Speakers Corner), he bounded in wearing his
trademark black drainpipe jeans, leather coat and
Converse boots. The way King sees it, the shaving

market has been ripe for disruption for some time.
Were a challenger brand, and part of what people
like us and Dollar Shave Club are trying to do is to get
the big guys to behave more I dont know honestly,
he said. Theyve accepted that the blade-count arms
race is pointless, because now everyone can deride it
on Twitter. Its all about the customer now. The world
has shifted from brand broadcast, Heres our ad, its on
the TV, consume it and buy it, to a transparent world of
social media and customer care and everybody sharing
their opinion. Those big brands need to try and become
loved again. At the moment, they arent. (King is big
on Twitter. He handles his companys account himself,
and enjoys responding to comments both positive
and negative about his products.)
Kings number one business inspiration is Apple.
His packaging looks more like an iPhones than a razors
and he likes to place adverts in Wired magazine not
necessarily the first place youd expect to find grooming
products. Thats the sort of guy I want to engage with
the product, he says. The one percent who are future
tech innovators.
He points out that before the iPhone launched in
2007, Nokia owned 60 percent of the mobile phone
market. Within five years, Apple had taken out not just
Nokia but BlackBerry too, and opened the door for
Samsung. They did that, King says, by simplifying the
experience which is what hes trying to do.
King is a keen sailor and the idea for Hyperglide
came to him after he happened across some sprays used
to make boats go faster. You can get superhydrophobic
and superhydrophilic sprays, he explained.
Superhydrophobic means super-water-hating. Nissan
have just used superhydrophobic paint. You can drive a
car through any amount of mud and s*** and its clean
because its pushing away the water. Theres also a
start-up out of MIT who are trying to coat the inside
of ketchup bottles, so they repel the ketchup. Thats
something Heinz may or may not have a vested interest
in backing, but the consumer will. Superhydrophilic
means super-water-loving. As soon as water goes
anywhere near, it will flatten the contact angle to absorb
it. It absolutely loves it.
The science had already been successfully used in
medicine to coat stents and catheters, so that theres
minimal invasive friction going into arteries. My guys
found this tech and surmised, if you can coat a straw,
could you coat a razor cartridge? The Hyperglide had
been on sale for three months when we met. Its 12
weeks out of the blocks, King said. My sales are lower
than I would have liked, but given the competition, Im
relaxed about that. Were in 500 Tescos, 500 Boots,
100 Asdas and 300 Sainsburys. And weve launched in
America, both in-store and online.
I wondered if he knew what his competitors thought
of King of Shaves. They dismiss us, he said. We did
attract a letter from the P&G legal department within
two weeks of our first launch. They were concerned
with some of the things we were claiming. We wrote
back on February 14 and said, Happy Valentines Day.
King estimates there are 20,000 patents active in
the razor market. King of Shaves has eight. Last year,
Grooming
new King of Shaves product, one that was

he spent over Dhs6m on legal fees to
due to be launched soon in the US. The
patent his new product and protect his
Azor SD is a four-blade razor with at least
existing razors.
one feature that was immediately familiar.
There are patents around the interAt its centre was a hinge that allowed the
blade spacing, around the beard bumper,
cartridge to pivot in multiple directions.
around the ejection of the cartridge
Like Gillettes FlexBall, in other words.
mechanism, the trimming blade on the
Its all patented, King grinned.
back he sighed. Its a patent minefield.
Gillette think theyve spent five years
The Hyperglide has a bendy hinge;
developing this technology! Were about
its how you eject the razor. One of his
to have this go onto the market as well.
competitors hes not allowed to say
A study recently published in the
who made six attempts to block the
journal Biology Letters suggested that we
patent to allow them to use it. They went
The cut and thrust:
may have reached peak beard. That the
back to court six times, he tuts. They
insideGillettes Reading
overwhelming popularity of facial hair
failed at their final appeal in February, in
Innovation Centre, where
thelatest inrazortechnology
means that the beard is no longer unusual
Frankfurt. A few years ago, King says he
is put throughits paces.
enough to be considered attractive (in
spotted a particularly nasty patent filing
Testsincourt showed that
Gillette hadthe advantage
other words, the beard has been subject
from Gillette. They were trying to patent
overWilkinson Sword
to the same forces as any other trend).
the inter-space gaps in the razor. Think
by0.0143mm
In June, the razor brand Schick the
of stubble washing out of the back. They
name Wilkinson Sword trades under
were trying to patent this wash-through
in the US, Australasia, Russia and Asia ran a New
ability, which, had they succeeded, would have pretty
Zealand advertising campaign featuring photos of
much stopped anyone else doing a razor. At least, one
men with particularly full and lustrous facial hair. On
you could rinse the stubble out of. (Kings says he
closer inspection, their beards turned out to be various
flashed it up to a few people around the world and it
types of rodent clinging to their faces. Lets face it, this
got kicked out.)
beards gone feral ran the strapline.
I said something about all this hassle being avoidable
If peak beard spells good news for the razor
if only someone would invent a razor that didnt need
companies, then happy days. But its not like theyve
replacing. I was joking, but King said he was already on
been sitting about idly waiting for the beard trend
the case.
to peter out. Towards the end of my meeting with
Over the last five years, weve looked at a lot of
Dr Kristina Vanoosthuyze, she produced a piece of
things to do with cartridge blade longevity, he said. We
promotional material for a new line that Gillette has
spent two years looking at ceramic, trying to perfect
just launched in the US. With an advertising campaign
a ceramic blade that would be sharp enough to slice a
fronted by Kate Upton, Gillette Body is a new razor
human hair. That was because Id bought some ceramic
built for the terrain of a mans body.
kitchen knives from Tokyo. They looked really cool:
Its a big trend now, guys are shaving their bodies,
white ceramic knife, chop your orange carrots But you
Vanoosthuyze said. Its evolved. Maybe it resided in
cant get the edge thin enough at the tip, to slice a human
the gay community but now it has gone completely
hair. The polycrystalline matrix starts to break up.
mainstream. In Germany, half the guys shave their
Wouldnt such a blade put everyone out of business?
body, their underarms, their groin. Its mega-trendy.
If we could have got a single-blade ceramic razor
She cast around for another example to illustrate her
in a cartridge with a Hyperglide surround, that, for me,
point. I mean, at the end of a football match when
would be pretty nirvanic, King said. He thought about
they take their shirt off, hardly anyone has a hairy
it a bit more. Instead of it being Dhs60, you might say
chest anymore.
its Dhs600. In contrast with his competitors, King
The Gillette Body razor comes with three
was only too happy to talk about ideas for where the
lubricating strips, a front-loaded pivot and a rounded
company might go next. He had loads of them.
and convex cartridge design. We know men do not
We filed IP [intellectual property] patents in the
want to use the same razor on the body as on their
area of hairbrushes, to do with detangling, he said. I
face, Dr Vanoosthuyze said. If it has been in certain
thought, This Hyperglide technology, this is all quite
areas they dont want to put it back on their face. So
clever. I wonder what it would be like if you put it on a
this is a different tool with a roundness and an absence
hairbrush, to detangle hair? It will also work for pets
of any sharp corners. It dawned on me what part of
dog hair, cat hair.
mens bodies Dr Vanoosthuyze and I were really talking
Then theres his XM range: Exotic Materials. Which
about now. The skin is very thin there. Its not very
is basically the Azor with a middle made out of carbon,
taught, of course, she continued. Its a sensitive area,
titanium and platinum. Were going to 3D-print that and
so guys like to see what they are doing.
sell it. It will be a premium product. A bit [luxury mobile
Ha ha, I said, imagine that razor being tested by the
phone company] Vertu. Some crazy people will buy a
Daily Test Shavers in Reading!
platinum phone at Dhs11,000. Who knows? Maybe sell a
But once again my joke was misplaced. It had been.
few in the Middle East or China.
Absolutely, Dr Vanoosthuyze said. Why not? I
As I got up to leave, King dithered. He seemed to
mean, there is a need. The many faces of shaving, eh?
be debating whether he should tell me something else.
Not just faces, I said.
Then he disappeared, and came back holding a brand
BBB
GILLETTE FUSION
PROGLIDE WITH FLEXBALL
TECHNOLOGY
I N T RO D U C E D 2 0 1 4
Gillettes latest has a handle

that pivots on your face,
thanks to a swivelling ballhinge. Claims to miss20
percent fewer hairs per
stroke. The most expensive
razor ever launched, Gillette
plans tosell Dhs690m-worth
in thefirst year.
ESQUIRE
143
CA RT I E R
CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER
Pink-gold case with a bezel and black PVD. Black dial
with Super-LumiNova Roman numeral hour markers,
gold hands coated with Super-LumiNova, and a
small seconds at six oclock. Manufacture automatic
mechanical movement.
144
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WILD
B LU E
YO N D E R
Dont descend to the depths without one of these
stylish companions, which make for the perfect
scuba-diving partners
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAHMUN / STYLING BY SARAH SAW / WORDS BY LEONG WONG
ESQUIRE
145
H U BL OT
OCEANOGR APHIC 1000
Black dial with blue markings as an indicator
for oxygen left in your tank. Continuous
seconds sub-dial at nine oclock; while the
other counters are indicated on the flange. Its
case and bezel are both in titanium. Automatic
chronograph mechanical movement.
146
ESQUIRE
JA EGE R-L ECOU LT R E

DEEP SEA CHRONOGR APH
Cermet titanium alloy case with black bezel, and matte-black
dial with luminescent numerals and hour markers. Three subdials and luminous skeleton hour and minute hands. Automatic
mechanical movement.
ESQUIRE
147
BA L L WATC H
ENGINEER HYDROCARBON
NEDU
Titanium case with a luminous ceramic
bezel. Appliqu hour makers with glowin-the-dark micro-gas tubes, repeated on
the hour and minute hands. Continuous
seconds at six oclock. Automatic
mechanical chronograph movement.
148
ESQUIRE
L ONGI N E S
HYDROCONQUEST
Stainless steel case with black bezel. Black
dial with Super-LumiNova Arabic numeral
hour markers. Two chrono sub-dials and
a continuous seconds counter at nine
oclock. Silver hands coated with SuperLumiNova. Automatic mechanical column
wheel chronograph movement.
ESQUIRE
149
OM EGA
PLOPROF
Stainless steel case with Super-LumiNova
white bezel. White dial with appliqu
Super-LumiNova hour indexes, and SuperLumiNova steel hour and seconds hand,
with an orange minute hand also in SuperLumiNova. Crown on the left, while the
helium escape valve in orange is on the
right. Automatic mechanical movement.
150
ESQUIRE
ESQUIRE
151
BBB
Directory
DIRECTORY
SEEN SOMETHING YOU LIKE? HERES WHERE TO GET IT
ABC
ACNE at Boutique1, mrporter.com
AGENT PROVOCATEUR +971 (0) 4 339 9570
AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS +971 ( 0) 4 339 8881
AlFRED DUNHILL +971 ( 0) 4 434 0403
AMI mrporter.com
ARMANI +971 (0) 4 339 8121
ARTIOLI +971 (0) 4 222 7171
AVENUE AT ETIHAD TOWERS 800 384 4238
BALENCIAGA at Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai +971 (0) 4 501 2700
BAUME & MERCIER +971 (0) 4 339 8880
BILLIONAIRE +971 (0) 4 434 1223
BIN HENDI +971 (0) 4 348 6361
BLANCPAIN +971 (0) 4 339 8304
BLOOMINGDALES DUBAI +971 (0) 4 350 5333
BOGGI +971 (0) 4 325 3422
BOUTIQUE 1 boutique1.com
BOTTEGA VENETA +971 (0) 4 325 3981
BREGUET +971 (0) 4 339 8756
BREITLING +971 (0) 4 341 1165
BRIONI +971 (0) 4 434 1418
BULGARI +971 (0) 4 330 8834
BURBERRY PRORSUM +971 (0) 4 339 8357
BURJUMAN +971 (0) 4 352 0222
CALVIN KLEIN +971 (0) 4 340 3448
CARTIER +971 (0) 4 434 0434
CARVEN at mrporter.com
C H CAROLINA HERRERA +971 (0) 4 395 1483
CHOPARD +971 (0) 4 339 8333
CHURCHS church-footwear.com
DEF
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA +971 (0) 4 339 8749
ETRO +971 (0) 4 330 8774, and at Paris Gallery
DIESEL BLACK GOLD +971 (0) 4 341 1395
DIOR HOMME +971 (0) 4 330 8739
DOLCE & GABBANA +971 (0) 4 341 0626
DSQUARED +971 (0) 4 339 8709
DUBAI MALL, THE +971 (0) 4 362 7500
DUNHILL +971 (0) 4 434 0403
FINS at Saks Fifth Avenue +971 (0) 4 501 2700
GHI
GALERIES LAFAYETTE +971 (0) 4 339 9933
GARRARD +971 (0) 4 339 8386
GIORGIO ARMANI +971 (0) 4 330 0447
GIVENCHY +971 (0) 4 330 8282
GLASHTTE +971 (0) 4 339 8262
GRENSON at Boutique 1 and mywardrobe.com
GUCCI +971 (0) 4 339 8712
HARRY WINSTON at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
HARVEY NICHOLS +971 (0) 4 409 8888
HERMS +971 (0) 4 330 8385
HUGO BOSS +971 (0) 4 434 1400
HOGAN +971 (0) 4 341 3144
IWC +971 (0) 4 339 8111
JKL
J.LINDEBERG at Boutique 1
JAEGER-LECOULTRE +971 (0) 4 339 8769
JAMES JEANS asos.com
JAQUET DROZ +971 (0) 4 330 0455
JOHN LOBB +971 (0) 4 330 8244
152
ESQUIRE
JOHN VARVATOS at johnvarvatos.com

KENZO +971 (0) 4 434 0472 and Saks Fifth Avenue
LANVIN +971 (0) 4 330 8008
LEVEL SHOE DISTRICT +971 (0) 4 501 6888
LONGCHAMP +971 (0) 4 339 8460
LORO PIANA +971 (0) 4 330 0546
LOUIS VUITTON +971 (0) 4 330 8060
MNO
MALL OF THE EMIRATES +971 (0) 4 409 9000
MARC BY MARC JACOBS at Saks Fifth Avenue
MARC JACOBS at Saks Fifth Avenue
MARNI at Harvey Nichols
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA at Harvey Nichols
MIRDIF CITY CENTRE +971 800 6422
MISSONI Boutique 1
MONTBLANC +971 (0) 4 3414451
MONCLER at Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdales
MR HARE at Level Shoe District
NEIL BARRETT at Harvey Nichols and Saks Fifth Avenue
OMEGA +971 (0) 4 339 830
PQR
PANERAI +971 (0) 4 339 8444
PARIS GALLERY +971 (0) 4 237 2222
PATEK PHILIPPE +971 (0) 339 8999
PAUL & SHARK +971 (0) 4 434 1412
PAUL SMITH +971 (0) 4 359 0099
PERSOL at +971 (0) 4 227 5775
PHILIPP PLEIN at +971 (0) 339 8262
PRADA +971 (0) 4 501 2870
RALPH LAUREN +971 (0) 4 330 8005
RIVOLI +971 (0) 4 339 8496
ROLEX +971 (0) 4 339 8000
ST
SAINT LAURENT BY HEDIN SLIMANE +971 (0) 4 341 0113
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE +971 (0) 4 351 5551
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO +971 (0) 4 330 8590
TAG HEUER +971 (0) 4 339 8555
THOMAS PINK +971 (0) 4 339 8598
THOM BROWNE mrporter.com
TIFFANY & CO +971 (0) 4 339 8256
TODS +971 (0) 4 341 3033
TOM FORD +971 (0) 4 330 8300
TOM FORD EYEWEAR at Tom Ford
TOM FORD FRAGRANCES at Tom Ford
TUMI +971 (0) 4 339 8536
UVW
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS +971 (0) 4 339 8001
VERSACE +971 (0) 4 339 8285
WAFI +971 (0) 4 324 4555
XYZ
Y3 at Boutique 1
YVES SAINT LAURENT +971 (0) 4 341 0113
Z ZEGNA +971 (0) 4 339 8749
ZILLI +971 (0) 4 434 1406
123
3.1 PHILIP LIM at Harvey Nichols and Boutique 1
Directory
BBB
Lanvin bag
Burberry scarf
cb Made in Italy loafers
Tartan is in, so check it off your wish

list with this soft and roomy holdall.
Price on request
The scarf is the perfect A/W bridge to

when its cool enough for a coat.
Dhs1,595
These loafers are made of Loden,

a thick, water resistant wool that is
perfect for winter. Dhs1,809
Alexander McQueen tee
Mulberry suitcase
Prada eyeglasses
The McQueen skull never goes out of

date, so invest in this tee.
Dhs976
Made from Scotchgrain, which combines

durability with water resistance to endure
tough travel. Dhs4,478
A touch of tortoiseshell adds a vintage

feel to your frames. Dhs1,185
Dolce & Gabbana boots
Armani Exchange shirt
Jean Paul Gaultier watch
If youre going to buy one thing this

season, make it these hiking boots.
Dhs3,500
This shirt is about the only acceptable

camo you should have in your wardrobe.
Dhs250
Update your wardrobe with accessories

that make a statement.
Dhs3,750 at Paris Gallery
Dior Homme sunglasses
COS sweater
Saint Laurent backpack
Add a shot of khaki green to your winter

wardrobe with these sleek sunglasses.
Dhs2,190
The turtle neck still reigns and adds a

tinformal twist to work wear.
Dhs420
Think youre too cool for school?

This backpack is a stylish update on a
practical classic. Dhs10,569
ESQUIRE
153
T h i s Wa y O u t
BBB
MOST WANTED
DUBAIS SKYLINE ADORNS THIS SEASONS ESSENTIAL ACCESSORY
youre going to buy one thing this season, make it the Burberry St Ives Dubai bag. Inspired by of the late St Ives-based
artists, Ben Nicholson and Christopher Wood, who created abstract interpretations of the Cornish countryside in the
south west corner of England, this roomy holdall features the Dubai skyline, laser-cut into bridie leather and suede. Plus,
this beaute has soft leather handles at the top and along the side, so it can be carried in either landscape or portrait orientation.
If
154
ESQUIRE
W O R D S A N D ST Y L I N G B Y K AT E H A Z E L L . P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y E F R A I M E V I D O R .
Dhs17,995, available at
Burberry in The Dubai Mall,
+971 4 339 8357

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THE ESQUIRE BIG BLACK BOOK AUTUMN/WINTER 2014

THE STYLE MANUAL FOR SUCCESSFUL MEN

AN ITP LIFESTYLE PUBLICATION

AUTUMN / WINTER 2014

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