50

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE

NIP TUCK
1

The bodycon silhouette is one that divides opinions in

fashion, and certainly one that is up for the modesty
debate here in Doha. In one camp, it is the ultimate
go-to for evening occasions to amp up the feminine
appeal, while in the other, it is a territory strictly
reserved for those with blessed figures. But we
believe that the celebration of the female form should
be for all sizes and shapes aim for darker colours
and geometric prints to highlight your best features
and camouflage the rest. Try experimenting with the
silhouette by using separates, like the versatile fitted
skirt or a cropped top paired with a loose bottom.
5

SPLURGE
1 Slit-detailed leather pants,

SAVE
1 Black flocked printed sheer bodysuit, QR218

2 Cream patterned sequined mini skirt, QR172

3 Web-motif leggings, QR172

4 Navy wrap cropped top, QR161

5 Bronze sequined maxi skirt, QR258

6 Black lace midi bodycon dress, QR287

All items available from River Island, Villaggio Mall.

QR18,033, Saint Laurent by Hedi

Slimane, Net-A-Porter.
Embellished leather bustier,
QR8,388, Moschino, Net-A-Porter.

3
Lace-jacquard peplum top,
QR4,116, Lela Rose, Net-A-Porter.
4 Halle embellished bandage dress,

QR12,706, Herv Lger, MyTheresa.

5 Mixed Media Jacquard Dress,

QR17,209, Prabal Gurung, StyleBop.

6 Print Peplum Pencil Skirt, QR3,215,

Tata Naka, BySymphony.

2

52

RUN
THE WORLD

There is one fast-track way to guarantee your entry into fashion

chicdom this season and the secret lies in the humble plimsoll.
Once relegated only to school gates and worn with inspirationkilling uniforms, this rubber-soled footwear is now on the
platforms of every designer collection. The key is to wear the
plimsoll with unexpected outfits, in fact, wear them with almost
any outfit you can think of, including evening ensembles and for
the boys, formal tuxedos. It is fashions way of rewarding you after
years of suffering in high-heels.

2 High-top Woven Sneakers, Cline, Villaggio Mall.

3 Silver Leopard Print Slip-On Shoes, QR2,531, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane.
1 Leather Fringe Slip On, Cline, Villaggio Mall.
4 Krista Slip-on Sneakers, QR1,150, MICHAEL by Michael Kors.
5 Keaton Camouflage-print Calf Hair Slip-on Sneakers, QR792, MICHAEL by Michael Kors.

6 Python Slip-On Skate Sneaker, QR3,623, Lanvin, Villaggio Mall.

7 BMX Slip-on Sneakers, QR1,198, Marc By Marc Jacobs, Villaggio Mall.
8 Lux Slip Ons, QR364, DKNY, Lagoona Mall.

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

DECEMBER 2014

AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

NOUF JEWELLERY
Designed by Qatari jewellery designer
Nouf Nasser Al-Meer, Nouf Jewellery
is an interpretation of luxury and the
leitmotif of the Oriental feminine
spirit. The pieces, which fuse Oriental
mystique and Western design, lean on
the avant-garde, incorporating unique
elements like the zipper detail. The
label is an artistic representation of the
designers inspirations: colours, nature,
her personal social interactions and her
country, Qatar. Nouf conceptualises and
designs each piece to be unique, cutting
edge and wearable, in precious material
including yellow and white gold pieces
and finishes off with intricate detailing,
colourful gems and internationally

B&OPLAY H6 SPECIAL EDITION

Headphones fashionable
enough to match our stylish
outfits? Yes, we say! B&O
PLAY has just released three
special editions of its BeoPlay
H6 that look swanky enough
just to be hung around our
necks as statement accessories.
Graphite Blush pairs a stormy
greyish brown with an almost
salmon-like red colour, while
Bronzed Hazel combines a
lush light brown colour with
bronzed elegance and Blue
Stone gives you a cool and
pale grey in unison with a

glittering light blue. Aesthetics

aside, the headphones are of
course, top of the line in sound
performance and usability.
Todays headphones are just
as much fashion accessories
as they are products used for
music listening and phone
conversations, says Henrik
Taudorf Lorensen, VP of
B&O PLAY, and with these
special editions, we yet again
emphasise the importance of
both style AND substance.
Try them on today at Fifty One
East, Lagoona Mall.

certified diamonds. I feel privileged to

present an authentic Qatari brand that
is inspired by the mystical femininity of
the region and is international in design
and craftsmanship. I feel confident
that Nouf will resonate with ladies who
dare to express their personal style
with originality and beauty. Through
my travels and interactions, I realised
that there is a growing appreciation for
artistry in jewellery that explores and
creatively interprets the many facets of
life surrounding us. This is my
inspiration and this is what makes
every piece unique. The collection
is now available at at Fifty One East,
Lagoona Mall.

55

NATURALLY PLAYFUL, NATURALLY KENZO

KENZOs creative directors,
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon,
collaborated with Evian to release
a special edition bottle design for
the natural mineral water brand,
conveying their graphic, intimate
vision. The design takes a cue from
Kenzos AW2014 collection which
was inspired by the works of artist
and director David Lynch motifs
of broken floor patterns and shifting
of elements. The broken-floor
pattern is the perfect illustration
for the bottle as it both symbolises
our current identity and magnifies
the water by altering the notions of

FANTASY GIFTS
The ultimate gift for fashion lovers has
arrived. What if you could gift exactly
what your receiver wants at the exact
time that they want it, for a whole
year? Net-A-Porters Endless Shopping
Bag allows you to park unlimited store
credit for a year so that the receiver can
indulge in every fashion piece, along
with a dedicated personal shopper to
help with all their style needs, exclusive
previews and pre-order items.
Offered as part of the online retailers
The Holiday Shop, other fantasy

gifts include Shoes Every Week of

The Year for QR152,800, A Bag A
Month for the Year for QR105,780,
A Stylist for A Season for QR88,150
per season, and the Ultimate Beauty
Kit for QR11,760. Fantasy Gifts
are incredibly special; they are the
ultimate luxury for the woman who has
everything, says Sasha Sarokin, NAPs
buying manager. The curation of our
styling experts can open a woman to a
world of style and beauty that she may
not have considered before.

perspectives. The pattern is also a

smart reference to the mountains,
where Evians water takes its source.
The violet lines representing the
mountains and the lime line, a
stream, Carol and Humberto
explain. Offering a magnifying glass
effect when full, the bottles purple
fragmented pattern is penetrated
by a sole lime zig-zag, giving the
holder a distorted and skewed
view of its ultra-pure contents. The
bottles were revealed at the recent
Fashion Forward Dubai and are
now available throughout the region
in selected restaurants and retailers.

60
Beaded Bracelet, CH by
Carolina Herrera,
Villaggio Mall.
Ruby
Sunflower
Earrings,
Cindy Chao.

Feather-trimmed Hat,
Lanvin, Villaggio Mall.

Quatre Cuff in pink

gold, set with
diamonds, Boucheron,
Fifty One East.

LIFE OF

THE PARTY
Crystal Ring,
Saint Laurent by
Hedi Slimane,
Villaggio Mall.

Fur Sandals, Santoni, Porto Arabia.

WITH YEAR-END FESTIVITIES LOOMING, IT IS TIME

TO GIVE YOUR WARDROBE A PARTY MAKEOVER.
THE ECCENTRIC ACCESSORIES THAT MAKE UP A BIG
PART OF AW2014S COLLECTIONS ARE THE PERFECT
ADDITIONS TO BRIGHTEN UP YOUR ENSEMBLES
AND GET YOU IN THE MOOD FOR CELEBRATIONS.

Colour-block Pumps, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Ribbon Stilettos, Christian Dior, Etoile La Boutique.

TRENDS / 61

Fur Collar, Fendi, Villaggio Mall.

Fur Stole, Matthew Williamson,

The Gate Mall.

Sequinned Bow Tie, Saint Laurent by

Hedi Slimane, Villaggio Mall.

Leather Clutch, Nina Ricci,

Etoile La Boutique.

Velvet Bow Headband, Federica

Moretti, Etoile La Boutique.

Embellished Trio-Ring,
DSquared2.

Embellished Cuff,
Matthew Williamson,
The Gate Mall.

Cat Ear Cap, Federica

Moretti, Etoile La Boutique.

Fur Necklace, Max & Co.

Black Darell Pumps, Chlo, Porto Arabia.

Tassel Boots, DKNY, Lagoona Mall.

Ostrich Daria Sandals, Chlo, Porto Arabia.

62

Fur Tote,
Donna Karan.

High Five Shoulder

Bag, QR8,783,
Charlotte Olympia,
FarFetch

WHAT
A BAG

CLUTCHES ARE MADE

TO LOOK LIKE DCOR
PIECES WHILE SOME BAGS
TAKE ON A CUDDLY SOFT
TOY APPEARANCE. TAKE
COMFORT THAT AS LONG
IT WILL HOLD AT LEAST
YOUR CREDIT CARD AND A
LIPSTICK, IT IS STILL A BAG.

Lipstick Perspex Clutch,

QR2,030, Lulu Guinness,
Etoile La Boutique

Cinderella Clutch, QR1,638,

Sophia Webster, FarFetch

Mr Funktastic Shoulder Bag,

QR1,955, Moschino, FarFetch

Lipstick Handle Clutch,

QR1,425, Lulu Guinness,
Etoile La Boutique

Stone Embellished
Clutch, Philipp Plein.

TRENDS / 63

Luna Tarp Fergus

Crossbody, QR983, Marc
by Marc Jacobs.

Monster Baguette Tote,

QR8,010, Fendi

Rabbit Fur Crossbody, Max & Co.

SpongeBob Print
Shoulder Bag, QR1,595,
Moschino, FarFetch

Oh Roy! Clutch,
QR2,530, Pierre
Hardy, FarFetch

Ginger Metallic Patent

Leather Clutch, Charlotte
Olympia, The Outnet

Animal Coin
Purses, Loewe.
Kalifornia Bag,
QR2,710, Kenzo

64

Heidi Klum and Alessandra Ambrsio turn up the

heat in two sexy evening gowns from Versace.

TO THE NINES
EYE-CATCHING NUMBERS THAT WILL CROWN
YOU THE BELLE OF THE BALL.

Stretch Knit
Boxpleat Dress,
Azzedine Alaa.

Feather Pom Pom Embroidery

Silk Evening Gown, Matthew
Williamson, The Gate Mall.

Peplum Leather Dress,

CH Carolina Herrera,
Villaggio Mall.

Hollywood
Glamour Evening
Dress, Ingie Paris.

65

Ruby Red Belted Panel

Chiffon Evening
Gown, Donna Karan,
www.donnakaran.com

Embroidered Silk
Crpe Dress, Nina
Ricci, Luisa Via Roma.

Snake-print Canvas and

Silk-Satin Gown, Christopher
Kane, Etoile La Boutique.

Snake-print Jersey
Dress, Christopher Kane,
Etoile La Boutique.

Black Quilted
Nylon Dress, Dior,
Villaggio Mall.

Swirl Jacquard
Dress, M Missoni,
Porto Arabia.

T
TALE OF

TWO
CITIES
THE CITY OF LOVE AND THE
BIG BEN COME TOGETHER IN A
MAGICAL TALE THIS CHRISTMAS,
REIMAGINED BY THE ICONIC
PARISIAN STORE PRINTEMPS AND
BRITISH LABEL BURBERRY.

he Magical Christmas Journey is

the story of a child who dreams on
Christmas Eve, of travelling from
121 Regent Street (Burberrys flagship
store in London) to Printemps Coupole,
by floating on a Burberry umbrella.
The boy and his teddy bear float
through the night sky and along the
way, they meet different characters and
discover a realm of dreams where two
worlds merge; the reality mixed with the magical dreamlike
world of Christmas. The journey of the boy is brought to life
through a series of graphics illustrated by Tom Haugomat,
a Paris-based artist who published his first book, Marche
ou Reve in 2012. Tom is well-known for his childrens book
illustrations, and as an animated films creator, is a perfect
choice to narrate the story of the collaboration between
Printemps and Burberry.
The boy and his teddy bear will also be the main central
theme for the faade and dcor of the department store this
festive season. A 3D animated version of both characters,
along with architectural elements from London and Paris
will light up the store, while the window displays will feature
the boys journey in the twilight of winter through the snowy
English countryside. For the first time, the window displays
will feature an interactive element, allowing visitors to
explore their iconic festive scenes. Printemps is very
famous for raising visual merchandising to an art form and
its skill in this field has been internationally acknowledged.
I work with a team of 40 people on all this artistry. Together,
we start planning the concept more than one year in advance.
The whole design is created by our in-house team, says
Frank Banchet, artistic director at Printemps.
Burberry will also be launching an exclusive collection
for Printemps, bringing London icons to Paris with six Britishinspired themes across its ready-to-wear and accessory lines.
English Rose plays with honey tones, floral motifs and soft
textures. The Punk brings us black leather and metal studs,
and a mini Punk character charm. The Ribbon Knot theme
takes its inspiration from the Burberry Sandringham trench
coat belt knot. The Pillar Box leads to a range of stylised city
skylines of London and Paris in the distinctive glossy red of
Londons post boxes. Finally, the Grenadier theme references
the renowned hats of Buckingham Palaces guards. Pieces
inspired by the illustration of The Magical Christmas Journey
by Burberry and a snow globe featuring the little boy and his
bear sailing on an upturned Burberry umbrella, are special
gifts and collectors items.

TRENDS / 67
The Pillar Box
Kensington trench
coat in red patent
leather, QR10,915

Pillar Box
umbrella key
charm in red
perspex, QR387

The Punk
Sandringham trench
coat in studded black
leather, QR14,106

Grenadier teddy bear in

stone shearling, QR 5,902

Constable print
white cotton
T-shirt, QR569

Punk key charm in

black leather and
perspex, QR843

Grenadier print
white cotton
T-shirt, QR569

English Rose peep-toe

ankle boots in honey floral
print deerskin, QR6,358

Grenadier tassel
key charm in fur,
leather and red
perspex, QR1,071

Pillar Box London and Paris cityscape large

beauty wallet in black leather and suede,
QR1,344

70

ANNIVERSARY / 71

TAKE 5 WITH

KARL
LAGERFELD
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

KARL LAGERFELDS EPONYMOUS LABEL IS ONE THAT IS CLOSEST

TO HIS HEART AND WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE DESIGNER FOR A
QUICK CHAT ON WHAT DEFINES THE KARL LAGERFELD WOMAN.
Theres a very definitive monochrome look to the Karl
Lagerfeld brand, much like your own look. Whats
the design philosophy behind the brand, and is it an
extension of your own style?
A brand has to be the reflection of the personality
of the designer the person representing the brand
and giving the image. If not, it is not real and only
marketing. It IS my very personal style and taste.
Who is the Karl Lagerfeld woman?
There was once a famous movie called The Third
Man, KARL LAGERFELDs style is my image of
a third woman near to my personal style and taste.
Its a proposition many women can identify without
being part of a special category.
A crossover of menswear into the womenswear realm
and sleek activewear has been one of the themes in
your recent collections. What do you think about these
forms as flattering options for women?
That is a simple question of style, look and attitude.
Some women look great that way other women look
better in a more feminine look.

Do you think fashion is going through a cycle of

nonchalance?
I would say a cycle of ease nonchalance can be
the door open to what the French call ngligence
or laisser aller I am very much against that!!
Coming into the Arab market, what are your thoughts
and impressions on Arab women? What or who from
the Arab world has inspired your work or formed
significant memories for you?
Looks and styles have to adapt to countries where
they are presented. I love the look and style of
Arab women. This look is often very stylish on
them but not on women from other cultures,
however, Arab women can look very smart in
other looks too. I love the old Arab culture, what
we call in Europe, Orientalisme. I like the
writing, it is so graphic, and the stylised designs
of ceramics and tiles. It is very inspiring, modern
and timeless.
Karl Lagerfeld boutique is coming soon to Lagoona Mall.

94

Dar Naseem
AlAndalos

Dar Naseem
AlAndalos

Debaj

OM Fiore

Dar Naseem
AlAndalos

Omaymah
Azzouz of
OM Fiore
Debaj

Debaj
Dar Naseem
AlAndalos
Dar Naseem
AlAndalos

NEW HEIGHTS
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

IN A GRAVITY-DEFYING FEAT, MODEL AND FASHION

ENTREPRENEUR JESSICA MINH ANH, HEADLINED AN
EDITORIAL SHOOT ON THE ICONIC EIFFEL TOWER, WEARING
EVENING CREATIONS FROM INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS.

FASHION / 95

he billowing dresses set against

the skyline of Paris were
complemented by jewellery
from Montblanc and Italian
powerhouse Buccellati; a
coming together of emerging
fashion labels from different parts of
the world by established names. The
editorial preceded the J Autumn Fashion
Show, held at the same venue the eighth
showcase by Jessica in presenting catwalk
shows at global iconic landmarks, to
promote the rise of a new generation of
creative leaders.
This season, Qatars abaya label Debaj,
Saudi Arabias OM Fiore and Bahrains
Dar Naseem AlAndalos made up the
roster of designers who presented their
creations at the expansive two-tiered

outdoor catwalk on the Eiffel Tower. An

ardent supporter of emerging fashion
from different regions, Jessica selected
Debaj for the labels ability to transform
abayas into pieces of art by infusing a
Parisian vibe in their collection. Debaj
combines class and elegance. I think the
future is bright for abaya designers in the
international fashion scene, Jessica says.
The abaya label presented a selection of
its SS15 collection along with specially
designed pieces for the showcase, that
were inspired by the Parisian philosophy
of Joy of Life. I feel that there has
always been an Arabian influence in
the global fashion scene. We are simply
stepping up the game and showing every
woman the possibility is endless with an
abaya, says Huda Debaj.

Dar Naseem Alandalos upped the

ante by presenting its AW2014 couture
pieces a fusion of Moroccan and French
influences, while OM Fiore focused
on winter abayas and Gulf-centric
dresses crafted with European fabrics.
I always seek for exchange of cultures
and incorporation of our Hijazi heritage.
On this runway, we are like a global
federation. Designers are influenced by
the mystic Far East, the vibrant African
colours, the rich Arabic culture and the
simplicity of the West. We are united in
forgetting world turmoil for the moment,
says Omaymah Azzouz, the designer
behind Om Fiore.
With panoramic views of the Trocadro,
and the Champ de Mars, the models
ended each walk over the thrilling seethrough glass floor a new tourist feature
of the Eiffel Tower. I see a strong
connection between fashion and the best
of locations. With an iconic landmark in
mind, the designer is inspired to come up
with phenomenal dresses, and seeing their
designs beautifully presented at those
venues inspires them further for the next
collection. It is an ideal circle, Jessica
says. In addition to the Arabian designers,
the fashion show also highlighted
the works from Indias Shilpa Reddy,
Denmarks Soul Made Faroe Islands,
Canadas Sho Sho Esquiro, Americas Kate
Walz and Vietnams haute couture star
Hoang Hai.
The fashion entrepreneur has come far
in proving a point, that you do not have
to be privileged to make your mark in the
world. As a young student in London,
Jessica would often admire Londons
Tower Bridge but never dreamt that one
day she would have pulled off organising a
catwalk show at the iconic landmark. After
the success of Londons show in 2011, she
has gone on to turn unique locations into
catwalks including the Grand Canyon
Skywalk, the One World Trade Center
in New York, the Petronas Twin Towers
Skybridge and the Costa Atlantica. I
realized this was the path I wanted to
pursue, to bring dreams closer to reality
and to be bold and unconventional. I
want to showcase fashion from various
cultures at the most unique places in the
world, somewhere exciting and almost
unattainable, she explains.

96

FASHION IN THE

SKY

Model: Jessica Minh Anh

Photographer: John Oakley
Hair: Freire Everton
Make Up: Celia Beaumatin
Designers: Dar Naseem AlAndalos,
Shilpa Reddy, Hoang Hai
Jewellers: Montblanc, Buccellati

FASHION / 97

Jessica Minh Anh

wears Hoang Hai,
Buccellati, and
Montblanc on the
Eiffel Tower

98 \ FASHION

FASHION / 99

Jessica Minh Anh

wears Shilpa Reddy

100 \ FASHION

FASHION / 101

Jessica Minh Anh

wears Hoang Hai

102 \ FASHION

FASHION / 103

Jessica Minh Anh

wears Hoang Hai

104

Fashion Talks by Franca Sozzani

and hosted by JJ Martin.

THE FASHION
PLATFORM
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FRANCA SOZZANI FINDS PARALLELS BETWEEN DUBAI AND NEW YORK - THE
DESERT CITY PROVIDES THE SAME COSMOPOLITAN VIBE BUT IS ENRICHED WITH
THE NATURAL LANDSCAPE OF SAND AND SEA WHERE CURIOUS VISITORS COME
FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD TO PARTAKE IN THE CITYS REVELRIES.

hen Franca first met Mohamed Alabbar

the enigmatic entrepreneur extraordinaire
who chairs Emaar Properties, she was a little
stunned when he told her the record number
of visitors that passes through Dubai Mall
each year. Wait a minute, you have millions
of audience, and I have millions of ideas. Lets work together!
she told him, and thus the first edition of the Vogue Fashion Dubai
Experience (VFDE) came alive in 2013. Gathering emerging
designers from Vogue Italias stable of fashion doyens-in-making,
the first event made headlines and opened up new markets to the
participating labels. Not just any market, but a crossroad that is a
convergence for developed and emerging markets from Europe,
Russia and China. The location is strategic. It is not about
creating a new fashion capital; we have too many of that already.
It is about finding new ways to improve visibility for designers,
Franca says.
The 2014 edition flew its flag for three days with additional
elements to further strengthen the interaction between designers
and the public. The International Talents Showcase brought
together 20 budding labels from around the world, while the
main fashion show featured eight designers selected for the
runway spotlight. The showcase ran for two days; an intimate
and engaging atmosphere for the labels to meet media (more
than 120 press representatives attended), buyers and clients. The
talents were scouted through VIs ongoing effort in finding and
promoting new designers; a process by the magazine in organising
design contests that have gone on for more than a decade. The
new generation is something that Franca is passionate about, and
acutely aware of the need for a momentum. Sometimes I wonder,
how do we know (that this designer is the one)? We launch
many initiatives and many have been successful so I guess we
are on the right track, she explains. Nicholas Kirkwood, Simone
Rocha and Esme Vie are the new wave of powerhouse labels that
have benefitted from Vogue Italias tutoring, and Franca is quick
to remind that none of those names are Italian. It doesnt matter
where you come from. It is about creativity, the willingness to
work and learn.
Joining the main fashion show roster for VFDE 2014 were
Jackie JS Lee and Stella Jean - two designers who have become
familiar names with the fashion crowd, much thanks to the
mentoring by VI. I learnt about the need to have proper
representation, facilitating the buying process and the production
of my collections, Stella says on the support from the magazine.
For Jackie, the close proximity between Milan and London also
factored into the continuous support. They are very eager to help
designers do things on an international level, the South Korean
designer says. Stella, an Italian designer with Haitian roots, is
a strong reference point for Franca when discussing emerging
labels from places with deep sartorially cultural traditions, like the
Middle East and Africa. Though Stellas collection deeply echoes
Caribbean prints and colours, the silhouettes are contemporary,
a key point in going global for emerging labels. I see so many
talents from these places but they dont have any possibility to
become an international brand because its too ethnic. You may
visit the place and buy it when you are there but after that, are you
going to wear it while riding the underground tube in London?
Franca comments. Make your culture global! Interpret it to be
wearable globally and for modern women to be able to relate it in

RUNWAY REPORT / 105

Franca Sozzani

Jackie JS Lee from

South Korea

Stella Maria Novarino for

Stella Jean from Italy

their daily lives.

VI has also helped open doors by putting designers in touch
with investors, as in the case of the new hip Italian brand MSGM
that has reported a $35 million turnover in just four seasons,
with the financial backing to expand globally. The designer and
the business team have a great relationship. Thats the crucial
moment when you are expanding, you need people to invest in you
and the truth is, there arent many people who want to invest in
young designers, Franca says. This collaboration between Emaar
Properties and VI goes beyond just finding design talent, but is
a directional effort to elevate the fashion industry as a whole in
this region; helping to cultivate the standards of stylists, retailers,
and fashion journalists. The expert panel talks, as part of VFDE
this year, opened various dialogues on fashion including business,
image branding and heritage, by personalities such as Roberto
Cavalli, Peter Dundas and Sarah Maino. Craftsmanship and
manufacturing also had the spotlight through a special exhibition
Who is on Next? to highlight the stories that happen when
producing beautiful fashion pieces. And for that final cherry to
top it all off, the gala night for the event this year saw appearances
by Ciara, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Miraslova
Duma, and benefitted the World Food Programme, which Franca
is an ambassador of. In the words of Franca herself, Through
fashion, you can talk to anybody. Be it good or bad, it is a really a
good medium to communicate with people.

DESIGNER FOCUS

SS15 PREVIEWS

PICCIONE-PICCIONE
I use embroidery to give 3D dimensions to the prints in my work; it is
like empowering the print beyond just beyond a flat fabric, says
Salvatore Piccione, the man behind the label Piccione-Piccione. This
is the fifth collection for the designer, who graduated in 2008 from
Romes European Institute of Design and moved to the UK to work for
print-queen Mary Katrantzou. After four seasons in London, he started
doing work for Cline and the high-street label, Hobbs. I am grateful
for the opportunity of working for both luxury and high-street brands
because it has helped me understand the best of both worlds.

RUNWAY REPORT / 107

ASUDARI
Saudi designer Lamia Asudari presents her most feminine
collection yet, Come Undone, an exploration of the bow
knot print. I explored the bow in different forms; tying and
untying it and putting prints and textures into the bows. Ive
got feathers, geometry and basically different elements that
could be incorporated into the print, Lamia explains. The
designer, who is London-based, goes deeper into the significance
of the bow print, believing in yourself to unravel things that
have bound you in the past. The pieces, though feminine,
retain the edgy rocker feel that is a signature of the designer.

108

CHRISTOPHER ESBER
After winning the Australian Woolmark Prize last year
and representing his home country in Milan for the
international edition, Christopher Esber had remained on
the radar of Vogue Italia. A short visit to the designers
Australian studio got him invited to VFDE. I was excited! I
had heard so much about last years edition, he says. The
eponymous label has been fast-rising in the four years
since its inception, with Christophers work receiving much
media support and legions of fans. This collection is
inspired by fluidity looking at things that are both
loose-form and structured and bringing them together. The
brand has always been about an ease of luxury like making
women feel confident without the severity, he says.

RUNWAY REPORT / 109

MIUNIKU
Though young in age, both the designers and the label (just
three seasons in), have not stopped the accolades from pouring
in for Miuniku. The summer of 2013 saw sisters Nikita and Tina
Sutradhar pick up the London College of Fashions Fashion
Innovation Award and the ISKO Denim Diffusion Award, and
this year, they clinched the semi-final placing of the H&M Design
Awards and won a prestigious Special Award at the LVMH Prize
for Young Fashion Designers. The label, named after the
nicknames of the sisters, Miu for Tina and Niku for Nikita, is a
unique play of minimal and maximal. Minimal in our designs
and maximal in colour and graphics, says Tina. Theres also much
innovation in extending minimalism in the use of fabrics, our
entire SS15 collection only weighs eight kilograms, Tina says.

110

NO 3 DESIGNS
Emirati design duo Bushra Badri and Amira Al Khaja go back to basics with a label
that is founded on the elements of a cultural garment, the bisht. We were always very
fascinated by the form of the bisht something that is inherent in our culture, and we
want to extract the interesting elements of it and incorporate it in our designs, Bushra
says. The name of the label comes from the duos design process, we design garments
in threes or multiples of the number, and it revolves around the philosophy of less is
more. Working with a neutral and earthy palette, the label always goes back to the
context of giving an international touch to the cultural garment. We want people around
the world to be able to wear it as an outfit, perhaps like a trench, Bushra explains.

RUNWAY REPORT / 111

Highlights from
International
Talent Showcase

COLIAC
The attention-grabbing and entirely
comfortable (we choose to believe)
shoe collection by Coliac is designed by
Italian Martina Grasselli. Having worked
with giants such as Stella McCartney,
Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian
Louboutin, Martina has also dabbled in
designs of furnishing accessories and
collections of objects. Coliac came to
life in 2009, first as a costume jewellery
label that experiments with different
materials and has since evolved into a
full-fledged shoe brand.

HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA
Theres never mistaking the designer behind Heaven Tanudiredjas
pieces because frankly, theres just nobody like this in the market
right now. Drawing from fantasy, sci-fi and always robotic,
Heaven merges strong sculptural geometric elements into
jewellery that are meant to be worn as conversation-starters.
The Indonesian designer was trained at the prestigious Antwerp
Royal Academy and cut his teeth while working with some of the
industrys biggest technical masters, including Dries Van Noten.

OMELYA
Ukrainian designer Kotsya Omelya is
one to watch a favourite at the
annual Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion
Days, he has won commendations
from industry insiders with his
minimalistic and sporty aesthetics. His
SS15 collection evokes a state of total
relaxation and absolute comfort by
using the oversized fit pieces that
are basic in silhouette but highlighted
with creative accents and trimming.

116

GAME
CHANGER
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FUN, INTERACTIVE AND OPEN FOR ALL, PER LEI COUTURE

SPARKS A NEW GLIMMER FOR SHOPPING IN QATAR.

SPOTLIGHT / 117

Osman presented a private trunk show as

part of the boutiques official opening night.

hough knowledgeable and

progressive in trends and
style, fashion shoppers in
Doha remain an unpredictable
and sometimes, fickle market.
The boom in multi-brand
boutiques in recent years has helped
increased designer visibility and put
the city on the radar of international
buyers, but sustainability seems to be
the brick wall that needs to be overcome
to establish a more successful market.
While some have tried and failed, the new
Per Lei Couture boutique is fast gaining
ground attracting even the pickiest of
shoppers to its generous space at The
Pearl Qatar.
Per Lei opened its doors early this year,
quietly courting the press, bloggers and
fashion influencers to experience its
offerings and share their thoughts. The

Piano clutch from Les Petits Joueurs.

low-key operation was wise, allowing the

build-up of hype through social media
and giving time for the team to fine-tune
the vision of the boutique. But one thing
that everyone agreed on was the freshness
of the collections emerging and cult
designers being available in Qatar for
the first time, the likes of Fyodor Golan,
Andrew GN, and Holly Fulton. And of
course, the Italian designer Benedetta
Bruzziches with her Magic Mirror clutch
that became almost a poster item for the
boutique.
In a few short months, Per Lei has
become the go-to for the something
special be it classic evening dresses from
Antonio Berardi or a quirky clutch from
Olympia Le-Tan, so it was no surprise that
when the boutique finally swung open
its doors in an official launch, the best
of Doha came to town. British designer,

Top handle bag from Holly Fulton.

Emerging and
cult designers like
Fyodor Golan and
Holly Fulton are
now available for
the first time in
Doha.

118

Osman Yousefzada flew in for the event

with a private trunk show of his Resort
2015 collection that sealed the boutiques
status as a bona fide serious player on
the retail scene. The crowd-pleasing
factor that has encouraged the boutiques
success lies in inclusivity in exclusivity
it is merchandising that appeals to a wider
range of buying power as opposed to many
boutiques in town that often only zero in
on high-end luxury. Sure, we have top of
the line bespoke evening dresses but we
also have unique, quirky and affordable
stylish pieces for every level of the market.
It is a place for all fashion lovers, says
Aysha Al-Suwaidi, the founder of Per Lei.
ith highly soughtafter collections from
Delpozo, Sandra
Mansour and worldexclusive pieces from
Sophia Webster,
Teatum Jones and Simone Rocha in their
hands, the boutique is on a vision to carve
a unique niche of its own. For Spring/
Summer 2015, Qatar is privileged as the
boutique will be among the first to carry
Giambattista Vallis newly launched

Simone Rochas
floral applique pieces.

SPOTLIGHT / 119

Embellished clutch
from Thale Blanc.

Karen Harries and Reem

Abbar form the buying
team for the boutique.

diffusion line, Giamba. The idea has

always been to create an environment that
has very unique and unexpected offerings.
It is a breakthrough in these times where
many multi-brand stores are beginning
to look very repetitive even in cities like
London, explains Karen Harries, the head
buyer for Per Lei. We want customers
to be comfortable in their own individual
style, to create their own signature.
Theres a lot of breaking down of
stereotypes at play too. While many buyers
for stores in Qatar still adhere to a certain
type of Khaleeji-esque styles, Per Lei is
instead focused on pushing new ideas.
Yes, we are very directional for the Qatari
market, but there have been so many
women coming in here and telling us that
this merchandising is what they have been
waiting for. This is a sign of the times, isnt
it? Karen comments. Women are now
into creating looks and less focused on just
buying brands. And the effort is made so
much easier with the eclectic range of eye
candy at the boutique; Sophia Websters
winged stilettos, Anna-Karin Karlssons
leopard sunglasses, and Thale Blancs
ornamental clutches. Even if you are only

We want customers
to be comfortable
in their own individual
style, to create
their own signature.
looking to buy a simple black dress, that
doesnt mean you have to go to a store
that only sells black dresses. What will
grab your attention? A window full of plain
dresses or a colourful and vibrant window?
And the possibility of discovering new
designers? Karen asks.

Per Lei Couture is located at La Croisette 18,

Porto Arabia. Go online to www.glamqatar.
com and check out our previous interviews
with designers Osman Yousefzada and Teatum
Jones as well as a special fashion editorial
featuring exclusive items from Per Lei.

Sophia Webster
winged stilettos are
exclusive to the
boutique.

120

ON
THE

IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR AN IT BAG TO REPRESENT

THE BEST OF THE ARAB REGION, MONI & J HAS GOT
THAT DOWN WITH ITS SIGNATURE MARSHAL PIECES.

he little gold tips that adorn the bags have become an

instant hit, adding an extra touch to the classicallyshaped tote. The Marshal, which was launched
in 2012, was picked up as a finalist in this years
Independent Handbag Designer Awards in New York,
and this Fall, we see updated versions of the bag in
new colours and materials. The AW2014 season also marks the
introduction of the new Grip Bag which takes centre stage in the
labels campaign that was shot in the Big Apple.

The designer behind the label, Manar Laktineh, takes a handson approach in the research and design process trying out all
new pieces for daily use to gauge for practicality and style factor.
The collection, made from materials sourced in Europe, embodies
the spirit of the brand to bring a refreshing touch to classic bags.
The handbag is the most important piece in any womans
wardrobe and thats why its an investment. It should be a highquality piece in terms of finishing and materials, so you would
be able to wear it for a long time with different outfits, Manar

S POTLIGHT / 121

says. The Kuwait-based Syrian designer named the label after her
childhood nickname, Moni and the initial J for the name of her
husband and her children.
The philosophy of our brand is very much reflected in the
unique design of the bags. We are different, and very dedicated
to bringing new concepts to the world of handbags, Manar says.
The endearing story behind the name of the label also embodies
Manars creative work handbags are very much an extension
of her life. On social media, the designer shares tips and advice

on how to pair outfits with her bags. Dont be afraid of wearing

handbags with metal parts during the day. It will add the fun
factor to a casual jean and flats outfit. Moni & J pieces are made to
be worn from day to night, with straps of different length to match
different looks, Manar says. The Moni & J collection is available
at Per Lei Couture boutique.
The campaign was photographed by Justin Ifill- Forbes,
styled by Sankara, and features the model Kelsey Adams.