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PAPUA NEW GUINEA

PROFILE

Independence: 16 September 1975


Government: constitutional, parliamentary democracy
Members in Parliament: 109 (20 provincial, 89 district)
Provinces: 19 plus the National Capital District (NCD)
Population: (1990) 3 761 954 - 52.7 per cent males, 47.3 per cent females; (1995 estimate) 4 186 236, based
on a 2.3 per cent growth rate.
Place of residence: 14.8 per cent urban; 85.2 per cent rural
Population density: 8.1 people per square km
Median age: 18 years
Life expectancy: females, 51 years; males, 49 years
Economic output: (1992) K4 139 600 000
Land area: 462 840 square km - 0.5 per cent beaches and ridges; 1.5 per cent mangroves; 11 per cent
swamps; 15 per cent other lowlands; 43 per cent foothills, mountains to 1000 m above sea level; 25 per cent
mountains 1000 - 3000 m; 4 per cent mountains above 3000 m
Highest point: mt wilhem - 4509m above sea level
Forests: 360 000 square km
Rivers: 10 940 km
Longest river: Fly - 1200 km
Biggest lake: Lake Murray - 647 square km
Coastline: (mainland and islands) 5152 km
Sea area: 1 900 000 square km
Deepest point: Solomon Sea - 8581 m below sea level
Reef area: (less than 30 m below sea level) 40 000 square km
Islands: more 1 400
Time zone: ten hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (London)
Map location: latitude: equator to 14 degrees south (1575 km) longitude: 141 degrees to 160 degrees east
(2100 km)
Neighboring countries: north - Federated States of Micronesia; east - Nauru and Solomon Islands; south Australia; west - Indonesia.

1. WESTERN
2. GULF
3. NATIONAL CAPITAL DISTRICT
4. CENTRAL
5. MILNE BAY
6. ORO
7. MOROBE
8. MADANG
9. EAST SEPIK
10. SANDAUN

11. SOUTHERN HIGHANDS


12. WESTERN HIGHLANDS
13. EASTERN HIGHLANDS
14. SIMBU
15. ENGA
16. MANUS
17. NEW IRELAND
18. EAST NEW BRITAIN
19. WEST NEW BRITAIN
20. NORTH SOLOMONS

1. WESTERN

Western is by far PNG's biggest province and it's most lightly-populated (less than one person per square km).
It gets the highest rainfall and holds PNG's biggest river (Fly) and biggest lake (Murray). Many areas are
either permanent or seasonal swamps, and for years Western was considered PNG's poorest province. The Ok
Tedi gold and copper mine has given the provincial government money for rural development. In 1984,
several thousand Irian Jayan refugees crossed into Western. The United Nations developed a 20 000-ha
settlement at East Awin for them and others relocated from Sandaun. The 1990 census counted 6872 Irian
Jayans at East Awin and in areas closer to the border.

SUMMARY
Population: 103 548 citizens and 6872 expatriates.
Land Area: 99 300 square km.
Members in Parliament: 4.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Balimo; 25 867; Gogodala, Bamu Kiwai, Ari-Waruna, Waia.
Daru; 23 302; Southern Kiwai, Wabuda, Bine, Gidra, Idi.
Kiunga; 22 032; Awol, Ninggirurn.
Nomad; 15 083; Biami, Nomad, Boazi, Pa, Zimakani.
Morehead; 7861; Suki, Idi, Nambu, Tonda, Lewanda.
Tabubil; 9403 ; Faiwol, Bimin.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people have lived in Western's northern mountains for more than 15 000 years but settled
the lowlands only over the past few thousand years. The Suki and Gogodala people of the lower Fly may
have settled and developed their culture in the past few hundred years. Many of the lowland people lived in
longhouses. These were cornmunal buildings up to 200 m long, built on posts 2 m off the ground. Men lived
in a central hallway. Women and children lived in separate family rooms on either side, with entrances
through the floor.
The British colonial government made Daru the headquarters of its western division in 1893. However, little
development occurred under British or later Australian rule. Gold and copper were discovered at Ok Tedi in
1968. In 1975, the people near Morehead established the 4800-square km Tonda Wildlife Management Area
to control the killing of deer, water birds, and other wildlife. It was PNG's first wildlife management area.

2. GULF

Gulf is a large, lightly populated province on the south coast, with little economic development. It has some
of PNG's heaviest rainfall, and its rivers and widespread swamps make communication and transportation
difficult. Timber, prawns, and copra are Gulf's main exports. One fourth of it's people have moved to other
provinces for work. The development of a proposed trans-island highway could open opportunities in the
eastern Gulf. Oil palm projects have been proposed in Baimuru and Ihu districts. Large oil and natural gas
deposits have been discovered, and Gulf's economic outlook will improve if they can be developed.

SUMMARY
Population: 68 610 citizens and 127 expatriates.
Land area: 34 500 square km.
Members in Parliament: 3.
Headquarters: Kerema.
Districts; population; and major languages:
Baimuru; 7 109; Purari, Pawaia.
Ihu; 9 739; Orokolo, Keuru.
Kaintiba; 14 654; Hamtai Kaintiba.
Kerema; 7 891; Uaripi.
Kikori; 9 430; North-eastern Kiwai, Kerewo, Podope, Porome.
Malalaua; 19 787; Toaripi, Hamtai Pmasa'a.

HISTORY
Scientists have found evidence that people used rock shelters in the Kikori-Kairi area 3000 years ago. Their
stone tools were made from raw materials from Tapini, Central, and the upper Kikori and Sirebi rivers. In
more recent times, coastal people traded cowrie and pearl shells to the Highlands for stone axes and adzes.
They also traded sago and logs for pots and shells from the Motu people of Central.
European settlement was slower than in most other lowland and island provinces. The London Missionary
Society (LMS) began contacts along the coast in 1884. Australia opened a district station at Kerema in 1906.
A short-lived gold rush occurred on the upper Lakekamu in 1910. Many Gulf men worked as carriers and
labourers during World War II. They helped build a 144 km road from Bulldog, in the old Lakekamu gold
country, to Wau, Morobe. Used only briefly, this is the closest PNG has come to having a trans-island road.
After the war, Gulf people began migrating to Port Moresby and other cities for work. The 1990 Census
showed that 23.1 per cent of those born in Gulf lived outside the province.

3. NATIONAL CAPITAL DISTRICT

National Capital District (NCD) includes Port Moresby and its widely scattered urban villages, government
centres, suburbs, and squatter settlements. They make up Melanesia's largest city (195 570 people) and by far
PNG's most heavily populated area (783 people per square km). The NCD has more people than 12 PNG
provinces. Five-ninths of the residents were born outside the NCD. It's original residents (Motu and Koitabu
people) make up less than one-tenth of the population. Their villages are centres of over crowding and
poverty. One-fourth of the NCD's residents live in squatter settlements. In contrast, the city also has PNG's
tallest buildings and most luxurious housing. The NCD is not connected by road with any other big town. It is
expensive to get to, expensive to live in, and expensive to leave.
Government is the NCDS's main activity. However, it is also has one-fourth of PNG's private sector jobs and
two-fifths of its private sector payroll. These job are at stores, factories, bank and business headquarters,
foreign embassies, air and water transport services, and tourist centres. The National Museum and Art Gallery
is one of the NCD's special attractions, as are the annual Port Moresby Show and Hiri Moale
festival.

SUMMARY
Population: 188 089 citizens and 7481 expatriates.
Land area: 240 square km.
Members in Parliament: 4.
Headquarters: Waigani.

HISTORY
Scientists believe Motu people settled in the NCD more than 400 years ago.
The land may have been vacant because of its harsh climate and poor soils.
The Motu started Pari and Badihagwa villages about 250 years ago, Hanuabada
(the Great Village) 130 years ago, Vabukori and Tatana more recently. The Motu built houses on stilts over
the sea. Bananas, yams, and fish were their basic foods. Sago was their main food from November to May,
between the yam seasons. The Motu used lakatois (big 2-hulled sailing canoes) to take pots and shells to Gulf
to trade for sago and canoe logs. The inland Koitabu people befriended the Motu and traded plants for fish.
The Koitabu built Baruni, Kilakila, and Korobosea villages on the coastal hills. They also settled at the edge
of Motu villages, and intermarriages brought the two people closer together.
In 1873, a British sea captain, John Moresby, surveyed the NCD's harbour. He named its two sections Fairfax
Harbour and Moresby Harbour to honour his father, Admiral Fairfax Moresby. (Port Moresby is a name
adopted through popular usage as the town developed in the 1880s.) In 1874, Rev. Williarn G. Lawes

established the London Missionary Society headquarters near Hanuabada. Port Moresby, the closest good
harbour to Australia, served as the colonial headquarters for Britain (1884-1906) and Australia (1906-75).
The Japanese bombed Port Moresby repeatedly in 1942, at the start of World War II. General Douglas
MacArthur, overall comander of the Allied forces, made his headquarters at Port Moresby for a time. Most
Motu and Koitabu men were enlisted as carriers, labourers, clerks, or medical orderlies. The women and
children moved to safety at villages far to the east and west. When the war ended in 1945, the Motu-Koitabu
found their villages either destroyed or run down. They built temporary shelters with abandoned war supplies.
In the late 1940s, Australia helped them rebuild Hanuabada.
The Badili industrial area was developed in the 1950s, the Hohola, Gordon, and
Six Mile areas in the 1960s. The University of Papua New Guinea opened in 1965. Development of the new
national government office centre at Waigani began in the 1970s. Port Moresby had an elected city council
from 1971 to 1980 , when the National Cabinet suspended it for financial mismanagement. The council had
21 members representing 7 wards. It ran markets and clinics and upgraded squatter settlements with water
supplies, toilets, foot paths, and other improvements. In May 1982, Parliament adopted an appointed
government system for the NCD while alternatives were studied. A government headed by 10 elected MotuKoitabu members, 4 national Parliamentarians, and 10 political appointees was adopted in 1991. It was
replaced by the current system in 1992.

4. CENTRAL

Central on the south coast has PNG's driest climate, some of its highest mountains, and among its lowest
population densities (5 people per square km). It is heavily effected by its neighbor, the National Capital
District (NCD). Central villagers sell fruit, vegetables, fish and betelnut in NCD markets. They benefit from
shops and services, health and transport systems based in the capital. Many work in government or business
there. Farther away from the NCD, subsistence farming and fishing are the main activities. Central's wage
levels are among PNG's lowest. Timber, rubber, and lobster tails are the province's main exports.

SUMMARY
Population:140 847 citizens and 348 expatriates.
Land area: 29 500 square km.
Members in Parliament: 5.
Headquarters: Konedobu, NCD.
Districts; citizen population; major languages:

Abau, hq at Kupiano; 31 088; Magi, Keapara, Daga, Sona.

Goilala, hq at Tapini; 22 073; Fuyuge, Taude, Kunimaipa.


Hiri, hq at Konedobu, NCD; 28 731; Motu, Koiari, Koita.
Kairuku, hq at Bereina; 29548; Roro, Nara, Mekeo, Kuni.
Rigo, hq at Kwikila; 29 407; Sinagoro, Keapara, Maria.

HISTORY
Scientists have found stone tools and other evidence that people lived at Kosipe in the Goilala mountains 26
000 years ago. However, coastal people from Cape Rodney westward are believed to have arrived in the last
2000 years. Two traditional trade networks existed along Central's coast. Both used big sailing canoes, which
relied on changes in seasonal winds to get them back and forth. In the'Hiri' trade, Motu people exchanged
Pots and shells for sago and logs from the Elema people of eastern Gulf Province. Sago, which can be stored
for long periods, was the main food late in the dry season around NCD. Mailu islanders in eastern Central
traded pots, axes, and shells with both the Motu and Milne Bay people.
The London Missionary Society began setting up missions along Central's coast in 1873. British rule began in
1884. In 1885, the Roman Catholic Mission of the Sacred Heart made its headquarters on Yule Is. It set up
many missions in the Kairuku and Goilala districts. The first PNG Catholic bishop, Louis Vangeke, was a
Mekeo from Beipa, Kairuku district. Europeans established rubber plantations in the Sogeri, Galley Reach,
and Kemp Welch River areas and coconut plantations along the coast. In 1908, Seventh-day Adventists set up
their first mission in PNG near Sogeri. A railway operated over 12 km of track between copper mines in the
Astrolabe Range and Bootless Inlet from 1922 to 1927.
During World War II, Japanese troops crossed the Owen Stanley Range and moved far along the Kokoda Trail
before Australian troops stopped them at Imita Ridge, near Sogeri , in September 1942. Many Central men
served as carriers or labourers for the Allied troops. After the war, army buildings at Sogeri were converted to
a training centre, where Michael Somare and many other national leaders received their secondary schooling.

5. MILNE BAY

Milne Bay is at the eastern tip of New Guinea, but it is also PNG's biggest island province. More then 435
islands surround the mainland base. They give Milne Bay 2120 km of coastline-by far the most of any
province. Most Milne Bay people are seafarers. Their Kula Ring of ceremonial gift exchange and trade is one
of the richest cultural heritages in the Pacific. Poor transport and the lack of large blocks of high-grade
agricultural land have limited development. However, the new Milne Bay estates oil palm project near Alotau
and the gold and silver mine on Misima Is have given the province a new economic foundation.

SUMMARY

Population: 158 484 citizens and 296 expatriates.


Land area: 14 000 square km.
Members in Parliament: 5.
Headquarters: Alotau.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Alotau; 26 789; Kehelala, Taupota, Tavara, Bohutu, Wagawaga.
Bolubolu; 24 511; Iduna, Bwaidoka.
Esa'ala; 24 738; Dobu, Duau, Molima.
Losuia; 26 607; Kilivila, Muyuw.
Misima, hq at Bwagaoia; 20 706; Misima, Yele, Sud-est.
Rabaraba; 20 996; Gwedena, Dawawa, Gapapaiwa, Maiwa, Wedau.
Samarai; 14 137; Suau, Kehelala, Tubetube.

HISTORY
Ruins of stone temples are found on many of the Trobriand islands. Scientists believe they are related to
temples in Polynesia. Trade networks criss-crossed Milne Bay in early times. The Kula Ring is the best
known. On the mainland, coastal people traded fish to inlanders for garden and forest products. Pigs were
traded for stone axe blades. Axes and other tools made with unusual green stone from Muyua Is or volcanic
glass from Fergusson Is were traded from place to place until they reached far outside Milne Bay.
European settlement began in 1847, when Marist (Catholic) missionaries built a mission on Muyua. It lasted
only 8 years. The London Missionary Society (LMS) started missions along the south coast in the 1870s. In
1891, the Anglicans began a mission at Dogura and the Methodists a mission at Dobu. The Kwato Extension
Association, founded by Rev. Charles W. Abel in 1917, was the first mission in PNG to stress the training of
nationals for skilled trades. Self-reliant graduates of the trade schools at Kwato (near Samarai), their children,
and their grandchildren have been influential in PNG's development.
Two turning point battles of World War II were fought in Milne Bay in 1942. In the Battle of The Coral Sea,
5 - 8 May, the American and Australian navies turned back Japanese ships intent on invading Port Moresby.
On 7 September, Australian soldiers forced the Japanese off the Milne Bay mainland after 12 days of heavy
fighting in the Alotau area. It was the first Allied land victory in the Pacific. Villages and missions suffered
heavy damage.

6. ORO

Oro (formerly Northern) is a lightly-populated area of mountains and plains on the mainland north coast.
Well-drained, fertile soils of volcanic ash give the Popondetta-Ilimo-Kokoda region the largest area of prime
agricultutral land on the mainland. Resettlement schemes have attracted hundreds of families there to grow
rubber, oil palm, cocoa, copra, or cattle. The 9600-ha Higaturu oil palm project near Popondetta is the
biggest. There has been social unrest between Oro people and the settlers in recent years. The Queen
Alexandra birdwing butterfly, the biggest butterfly in the world, is found only in Oro.

SUMMARY
Population: 96 318 citizens and 173 expatriates.
Land area: 22 800 square km.
Members in Parliament: 3.
Headquarters: Popondetta.
Districts; citizens; and major languages:
Afore; 10 348; Managalasi, Yareba, Bauwaki.
Kira; 2359; Guhu-samane.
Ioma; 7781; Binandere, Aeka.
Kokoda; 11 966; Hunjara, Barai, Aomie, Mt Koiari.
Popondetta; 53 510; Orokaiva, Notu, Ambasi.
Tufi; 10 354; Korafe, Arifamia-Miniafia, Maisin, Baruga.

HISTORY
Before European contact, Oro people lived in small scattered villages and grew taro and yams as their main
food. Coastal people traded shells, lime, clay pots, wooden dishes, volcanic glass, and canoes. They traded
with inlanders for feathers, reptile skins, bark (tapa) cloth and betelnut.
Foreign gold miners moved into the Yodda-Kokoda Trough in 1895. The British
colonial government opened a station at Kokoda in 1898 because of trouble between local people and the
miners. Anglicans started a mission at Wanigela in 1898 and at Mamba, a mission a near Kokoda, in 1899. In
1904 government runners began carrying mail between Port Moresby and Oro over the rugged Kokoda Trail.
This service continued until october 1949.
Japanese troops invaded Oro, between Buna and Gona, on 21 July 1942, intent on crossing the Kokoda Trail
to attack Port Moresby. Fighting continued for months. Australian troops finally blocked the attack at Imita
Ridge, Central, in mid-September. They captured Kokoda on 2 November. Australian and Arnerican troops
forced the Japanese out of Oro on 23 January 1943. The famous photograph of Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel' Raphael
Oimbari, helping a wounded Australian soldier was taken near Buna on Christmas day 1942. Most villagers
fled from the fighting zone, but many Papua New Guineans who served as soldiers or carriers suffered
injuries or died of wounds, disease, or fatigue.
On 21 January 1951, a violent eruption of Mt Lamington killed 2942 people- the greatest natural disaster in
PNG's recored history. Hot gases and rock destroyed everything in a 175 square km area on the mountains
northen slope. This included district headquarters at Higaturu and Martyrs' Memorial School at Sangara
which the Anglicans had built in 1948 to honour priests killed by the Japanese. Australian Army engineers
quickly built streets and town buildings to make Popondetta the new district headquarters. Martyrs' School
was rebuilt at Agenahombo. Prince Charles attended it briefly in 1966. In October 1960, George Ambo, from
a village near Gona, was consecrated an Anglican bishop. He was the first Papua New Guinean Bishop.

7. MOROBE

Morobe has PNG's largest population and its most varied character. It has some of PNG's wettest climates
and some of its driest, some of its highest mountains and one of its biggest valleys. Lae (88 172 people) is
PNG's second largest city, a major manufacturing center and the hub of transport and trade for the Highlands.
Inland, however, some villages are 40 km from the nearest bush road. Airplanes are a vital transport link.
Morobe's cultures are as different as its 98 languages.

SUMMARY
Population: 377 756 citizens and 2361 expatriates
Land area: 34 500 square km.
Members in Parliament: 10.
Headquarters: Lae
Districts; citizens; and major languages:
Finschhafen; 47 177; Kate, Kube.
Garaina; 7 541; Guhu-Samane, Biaru-Waria, Gazili.
Kabwum; 38 685; Kimba, Timbe, Selepet.
Kaiapit, hq at Mutzing; 36 207; Adzera, Wantoat, Safeyoka.
Huon, hq at Lae; 149 591; Bukawac, Nabak, Wampar.
Menyamya; 41 711; Menya, Hamtai, Yagwoia.
Mumeng; 16 703; Mumeng, Mapos.
Siassi, hq at Semo; 10 103; Kovai, Mutu, Mangap.
Wau; 30 038; Hamtai, Biangi.

HISTORY
Scientists have found stone tools and other trace of human settlement 39 000 years old near Bobongara on the
north-east Huon coast. These are the earliest traces of human settlement in PNG or Australia. Vitiaz Strait
islands were the centre of a trade network between New Britain, Morobe, and Madang. Trade items include
shells, dogs' teeth, canoes, pots, and carved bowls. The peoples of the Huon Gulf coast and the Markham
Valley speak related Austronesian languages. They are believed to have settled in the last few thousand years.
Finschhafen served as capital of German New Guinea from 1885 to 1892. The Germans did little to develop
Morobe. However, German Lutheran priests started many missions, including the one at Lae in 1911. Lae
led the world in air cargo in the early 1930s, when mining companies used airplanes to fly dredges, electric
power generators, and other heavy equipment from there to the goldfields at Wau and Bulolo. An estimated

7000 soldiers and villagers were killed in Morobe during fighting between Japan and the Allies, from 1942 to
1944. A war memorial and cemetery are in the botanical gardens at Lae. Stone monuments mark many battle
sites. Lae entered a boom period in 1964, when a bridge over the Leron River (Markharn Valley) completed
the last link in the Highlands Highway.

8. MADANG

Madang has many of PNG's highest peaks, its most active island volcanoes, ands its biggest mix of
languages (175). Madang town is PNG's third biggest city (27 181 people) and one of it's beauty spots. The
province is PNG's second leading producer of copra and cattle, and third in cocoa. Ramu sugar and the
Jant/Gogol woodchip mill are among PNG's biggest employers. The new tuna cannery at Alexishafen will be
another major employer. Most areas are still far from transport and undeveloped.

SUMMARY
Population: 252 411 citizens and 784 expatriates.
Land area: 29 000 square km.
Members in Parliament: 7.
Headquarters: Madang.
Districts; citizens; and major languages:
Bogia; 51 468; Manam, Mikarew, Katiati, Tangu, Tani.
Karkar; 29 296; Takia, Waskia.
Madang; 87 700; Amele, Gedaged, Mugil, Garuh, Garus.
Middle Ramu, hq Aiome; 33 097; Kalam, Rao, Kobon, Maring.
Rai Coast, hq Saidor; 23 237; Nahu, Rawa, Mebu, Nankina.
Upper Ramu, hq Walium; 27 613; Gende, Girawa, Rawa, Sumau.

HISTORY
Scientists have found evidence of human settlernent 12 000 to 15 000 years ago near Simbai. More recently,
the Yabob and Bilbil people used big sailing canoes to trade their pots from Karkar Is to western Morobe.
They were part of the Vitiaz Strait trade network. Bundi was the centre of trade beween Astrolabe Bay and
the Highlands. Trade involved shells, salt, clay Pots, and wooden bowls from the lowlands and stone axes,
feathers, and women from the Asaro, Simbu, and Jimi valleys.

European contact began in 1871, when Russian biologist Nicolai Miklouho-Maclay explored the Rai Coast.
He introduced pineapples, mangoes, beans, pumpkins, and other new foods. Later, Germans built tobacco,
cotton, and coffee plantations at Bogia and around Astrolabe Bay. In 1886, Johannes Flierl started a Lutheran
mission at Simbang. Catholics (Divine Word) established missions at Bogia in 1901 and Alexishafen in 1904.
Japanese soldiers captured Madang town on 1 May 1942, early in World War II. Villagers near Japanese
installations suffered bombing by Allied planes, food shortages, and disease epidemics. Allied soldiers
recaptured Madang on 24 April 1944.
After the war, Madang people formed cooperatives to sell cash crops. Madang town became the hub for air
cargo going in and out of the Highlands. On 1 November 1970, an earthquake in the Adelbert Range caused
18 deaths and K 1 700 000 in damage.

9. EAST SEPIK

East Sepik is the second largest province in land area and one of the best known outside PNG. Sacred masks,
carvings, and pottery from East Sepik are in museums around the world. The people make these objects now
to sell to tourists and commercial buyers. Robusta coffee and cocoa are other cash earners. However, the
province is mostly underdeveloped. The Sepik river is the heart of province, but its flooding limits the use of
nearby flat land. Other areas are covered by infertile grasslands. Half the population is crowded in the hill
country north of the river. Malnutrition is a problem there. 13.7 per cent of the people born in the East Sepik
have moved to other provinces.

Summary
Population: 253 814 citizens and 557 expatriates.
Land area: 42 800 square km
Members in Parliament: 7
Head quarters: Wewak
Districts; citizen population; and major languages:
Ambunti; 31 223; Iwam, Kwoma, Manambu, Chambri.
Angoram; 48 394; Iatmul, Angorarn, Kambot, Banaro.
Maprik; 111 302; Abelam, (Abulas), Kwanga Southern Arapesh.
Wewak; 62 895; Boiken, Sawos, Mountain Arapesh, Kairiru.

HISTORY
Scientists believe the Sepik was a main route for migration into the Highlands for thousands of years. The
variety of languages in East Sepik suggests a series of migrations. Shells from the coast and axe blades from
Sandaun (West Sepik) were traded into the Highlands. The first outside trade probably was with Malay and
Chinese bird of paradise hunters.
Germany annexed the Sepik area in 1884 but did little to develop it. The Germans recruited labourers for
plantations in other places. Wewak began as a Catholic mission in 1912. Australian rule after 1914 brought
no new development.
Japanese troops took over East Sepik in March 1942, early in World War II. Fighting between Japanese and
Allied troops heavily damaged Wewak and Maprik districts between April 1944 and the Japanese surrender at
Cape Wom in September 1945. The Japanese killed most animals for food, and Allied bombing destroyed
villages and food trees. After the war, men who had been exposed to western ways created co-operative
societies and several cargo cults. The first co-ops were for processing and marketing rice. Later co-ops
dealing in Robusta coffee, cocoa, and other products have been more successful. Matias Yaliwan's Peli
Association, which began in Yangoru in 1971, is the largest of the area's cargo cults. East Sepik became a
separate district in 1966. Catholic and Evangelical Alliance missions lead in providing education and health
services,

10. SANDAUN

Sandaun (formerly West Sepik) is a large, underdeveloped province on PNG's northern border with Irian
Jaya. Settlement is heaviest in the Aitape area and the Torricelli mountains. Many other areas have no people
or scattered settlements. Sandaun has 95 local languages (an average of less than 1400 speakers per
language). Transport is very limited. Vanimo has PNG's largest single area of commercial timber. Logging
began in 1985 and has brought some side developments. Sandaun is the tok pisin word for sundown - the
place where the sun sets last in PNG.

SUMMARY
Population: 139 011 citizens and 906 expatriates.
Land area: 36 300 square km.
Members in Parliament: 5.
Headquarters: Vanirno.
Districts; citizens; major languages:

Aitape; 24 750; Sissano, Olo, Warapu, Mountain Arapesh.


Amanab; 21 848; Abau, Amanab, Waris, Anggor.
Lumi; 28 162; Olo, An, Namie.
Nuku; 25 583; Kwanga, Mehek, Au, Yil.
Telefomin; 21 319; Oksapmin, Telefol, Tifal, Mianmin.
Vanimo; 17 349; Fas, Kilmeri, Vanimo.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people began entering PNG along the Sandaun (West Sepik) coast more than 40 000 years
ago. The variety of languages suggests many waves of settlement. Newcomers pushed earlier people inland.
The coastal people had contact with Chinese and Malay traders hundreds of years ago. Om in the Lumi
district was a regional source of stone axe and adze blades.
Catholic (Divine Word) missionaries built a mission on Tumleo Is near Aitape in 1896. German and
Australian colonial governments provided little development. Labour recruiters hired Sandaun men to work
on copra plantations in other areas.
Japanese soldiers took over Sandaun (then West Sepik) in 1942, early in World War II. Allied soldiers landed
at Aitape on 22 April 1944 in a move that trapped the Japanese army in its retreat from defeats farther east.
The Japanese went inland, and intense fighting continued until the final Japanese surrender in September
1945. Most villagers fled, but the fighting caused heavy property damage as well as killing more than 8000
soldiers.
Catholic (Franciscan) and Baptist missionaries started new missions after the war. In 1966, Sandaun became
a separate district. In 1984, thousands of Irian Jayan people crossed into the province to get away from
fighting between Indonesian soldiers and members of the anti-government OPM group. The refugees were
placed in camps. In 1986, the national government asked the United Nations to take responsibility for the
refugees. Most of them were moved to Western or went home.

11. SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS

Southern Highlands is a rugged, remote, heavily populated province with little economic development.
Subsistence agriculture is the basic way of life. Traditions, including tribal fighting, remain strong. Southern

Highlands has the lowest levels of education, literacy and participation in the cash economy and wage
employment. The economy depends heavily on government wages and purchases. Many men migrate to
other provinces for work. Heavy rainfall and high freight costs have been the biggest barriers to
development. The Kutubu oil project in southern Nipa district and the Hydes gas field near Tari have brought
jobs and community development to the area.

SUMMARY
Population: 316 987 citizens and 450 expatriates.
Land area: 23 800 square km.
Members in Parliament: 9.
Headquarters: Mendi.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Ialibu; 30 093; Kewa, Imbong'gu, Wiru.
Kagua; 45 496; Kewa, Sau, Wiru, Podopa.
Koroba; 40 108; Duna, Huli, Hewa.
Mendi; 57 102; Angal (Mendi).
Nipa; 65 453; Angal, Foi, Fasu.
Pangia; 24 459; Wiru.
Tari; 54 276; Huli, Kaluli.

HISTORY
Scientists assume Southern Highlands, like the nearby Highlands, has been settled by humans for more than
20 000 years. They have found stone tools near Mendi which were probably used to grind taro into a food
paste. Taro has not been prepared that way in recent times. Some of these tools have come to be regarded as
magic stones. Southern Highlanders were the middlemen in trade between Gulf of Papua (shells) and the
Highlands (salt, axe heads). Lake Kutubu area people added oils from tigasso trees to this trade. The oil is
used by Highlanders to beautify their bodies.
The first major Australian colonial patrols reached Southern Highlands in the mid-1930s. In 1951, Southern
Highlands became a district, with Mendi as its headquarters. New boundaries were set in 1973. In 1972,
widespread famines occurred after severe frosts above 1500 m, where most people live. The Australian Army
Engineering Unit has built most of the province's roads and bridges since 1971 under an unusual international
co-operation agreement. In 1974, the Highlands Highway reached Mendi. It reached Koroba in 1981, linking
Mendi with the more densely-populated western areas. Evangelical Alliance, Catholic, United, and Lutheran
missions have been prominent in education and health services.

12. WESTERN HIGHLANDS

Western Highlands has PNG's most highest mountains and some of its biggest valleys. Rich volcanic ash
soils make the broad, 80-km-long Wahgi Valley one of PNG's most productive agricultural areas. The
province produces two-fifths of PNG's coffee exports and all of its tea. It also produces vegetables for
urban supermarkets. Mount Hagen is the transport and commercial centre for the 3 western Highlands
provinces. Western Highland people have been growing food for 9000 years, Making them among the worlds
oldest farmers. They have the highest population density of any province - about 37 people per square km.
Most of them live in the main valleys 1500 to 1800 m above sea level. Tribal fighting occurs frequently in
the Mount Hagen-Baiyer-Nebilyer area.

SUMMARY
Population: 335 592 citizens and 586 expatriates.
Land area: 8500 square km.
Members in Parliament: 8.
Headquarters: Mount Hagen.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Hagen Central, hq at Mount Hagen;108 629; Melpa, Gawigl.
Hagen North, hq at Muglamp; 86 134; Melpa, Enga Kayaka.
Jimi, hq at Tabibuga; 33 354; Ganja, Narak, Maring, Kalam.
Tarnbul; 28 374; Gawigl.
Wahgi, hq at Minj; 79 101; Wahgi.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people lived at Kuk swamp near Mount Hagen 20 000 years ago. They were gardening
9000 years ago. Hunters and gatherers lived in caves at Yuku near the Baiyer River 12 000 years ago. They
were eating pigs from 1 0 000 years ago and had become farmers and traders 6500 years ago. At Ruti in the
lower Jimi valley, farming drainage ditches and mounds date back 3400 years. This is the earliest evidence of
farming in lowland areas.
The first Australian patrol, led by kiap Jim Taylor and the Leahy brothers, entered Western Highlands in
1933. Father William Ross led Catholic missionaries to the Mount Hagen area in 1934, but their activities
were limited by the government until the mid-1940s. Expatriates began planting coffee in the early 1950s.
Crops had to be transported to Madang by airplane until the early 1960s, when the Highlands Highway to Lae

was improved enough for commercial use. Tea plantations began near Minj in 1964. Since then, there has
been large-scale reclamation of the Wahgi swamplands for this crop. In 1970, villagers completed a road
linking the Jimi Valley with the Wahgi Valley at Banz.

13. EASTERN HIGHLANDS

Eastern Highlands is the most developed highlands province. Eastern Highlanders have a life expectancy of
53.1 years, the highest in the highlands and fourth highest in PNG. Coffee is the biggest cash crop. A number
of magor institutions are based in Goroka. Ramu hydro power at Yonki creates electricity for Eastern
Highlands and 6 other provinces.

SUMMARY
Population: 298 502 citizens and 2146 expatriates.
Land area: 11 200 square km.
Members in Parliament: 9.
Headquarters: Goroka.
Districts; citizen population; and major languages:
Goroka; 98 790; Gahuku-Asaro, Benabena, Siane.
Henganofi; 37 671; Kamano.
Kainantu; 80 838; Gadsup, Agarabi, Tairora.
Lufa; 30 485; Kamano-Yagaria, Gimi.
Marawaka; 11 814; Baruya, Sirnbari, Yagwoia.
Okapa; 38 904; Fore, Gimi, Auyana.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people lived in rock shelters in the Lamari valley 18 000 years ago and at Kafiavana in the
Asaro valley south of Goroka 11 000 years ago. These were hunting and gathering people, not farmers. The
people at Kafiavana had trade links with the coast as long as 9000 years ago.
Lutheran missionaries explored the Asaro and Bena Bena valleys in 1927. Australian gold prospectors and
kiaps arrived in the 1930s. Contact with Europeans generally was peaceful. In 1935, Pastor Buko Usemo, a
Lutheran evangelist from Finschhafen, became the first settler in Goroka.

During World War II (1942-45), many villagers worked as carriers or labourers for the Allies, building
airstrips and anti-aircraft gun emplacements in Eastern Highlands. The Japanese bombed Goroka several
times during late 1943. Eastern Highlands also served as a rest centre for Allied troops and a source of fresh
vegetables.
In 1946, Goroka became the administrative centre for the Highlands and its main air link with Madang, the
closest port. The first road linking Goroka with Lae was completed in the early 1950s. Expatriates began
growing arabica coffee on good land in the Kaintantu and Goroka areas, developing the market for what is
now PNG's top cash crop.

14. SIMBU

Simbu (also known as Chimbu) is a small mountainous area in the middle of PNG's highlands. It is the third
leading producer of coffee, all from small holders. Simbu are known for their ability to grow subsistence
crops on steep mountain sides. Simbu is the second most densely populated province. There are 31 people
per square km (4 times the national average). Overcrowding and the lack of opportunities have caused onefifth of the people born in Simbu to move out. Its population growth rate (0.3 per cent a year) is the lowest in
PNG. The median age is the highest.

SUMMARY
Population: 183 649 citizens and 200 expatriates.
Land area: 6181 square km.
Members in Parliament: 7.
Headquarters: Kundiawa.
Districts; citizens; major languages; (Simbu language dialects):
Chuave; 31 241; Elimbari, Chuave, Siane-Komunku, Lambau
Gembogl; 17 048; (Kuman, Nagane).
Gumine; 32 858; (Golin, Salt-Yui, Yuri, Kia, Keri, Era), Nomane
Karimui; 12 204; Mikaru Daribi, Pawaia, Bomai
Kerowagi; 36 251; (Kuman, Kombugl).
Kindiawa; 36 537; (Kuman, Dom), Naur, Narku, Nongumugl.
Sinasina; hq at Kamtai; 17 510; (Tabare, Guna).

HISTORY
Scientists believe that people lived at Nombe, near Chuave, 24 000 years ago. They also have dated pigs' teeth
found near Chuave as 10 000 years old. This is the earliest evidence of pigs in PNG. Ancient burial caves are
located in Mt Elimbari near Chuave. Europeans first entered Sirnbu in April 1933. Catholic and Lutheran
missions were set up in the northern valleys in 1934. In 1935, Lutherans built the first airstrip, near
Kundiawa. In 1953, the Highlands Highway over Daulo Pass was completed, connecting Simbu with the
north coast at Lae. Local government councils were established in the 1960s. They helped to develop schools,
aid posts, and roads. Simbu, which had been part of Eastern Highlands, became a separate district in 1966.

15. ENGA

Enga is PNG's highest, coldest, least developed province. A gold rush at Mt Kare in 1988 and the opening of
the big gold mine at Porgera in 1990 have given the province a taste of wealth. The Porgera mine has
provided jobs, modern housing, community development and infrastructure in the area. However, most
people still live subsistence lifestyles. Some earn cash growing coffee, pyrethrum, or european cold weather
crops. Severe frosts every few years take heavy tolls in crops and lives. The population is dense, and there
are frequent tribal fights over land, valued trees, or payback.

SUMMARY
Population: 235 233 citizens and 328 expatriates.
Land area: 12 800 square km.
Members in Parliament: 6.
Headquarters: Wabag.
Districts; population; and major languages (Enga dialects):
Kandep; 41 961; Enga (Kandepe), Katinja.
Kompiam; 22 852; Enga (Sau, Kopona), Wapi, Lembena
Lagaip, at Laiagarn; 50 973; Enga (Tayato, Yandapo), Nete
Porgera; 16 385; Ipili, Hewa.
Wabag; 59 698; Enga (Mai, Kaina, Malamuni).
Wapenamanda; 43 364; Enga (Layapo, Kopona).

HISTORY
Scientists have evidence that hunting and gathering people lived in caves at Yuku/Baiyer river on Enga's
eastern border 12 100 years ago. They used tools similar to those found at Kosipe, Central, and believed to be

27 000 years old. Yuku people were eating pigs from 10 000 years ago. They had become farmers and
traders from 6500 years ago. In other areas, evidence of forest clearance, probably for crops, dates back 4000
years. Scientists believe Enga's soils were enriched by clouds of ash from a big volcanic eruption on Long
Island, Madang, about 250 years ago.
In 1938, the first Australian patrols in Enga reported a well-developed network of tracks and grounds for Te
(pig exchange) ceremonies. They described vigorous gardening and trade. Salt from springs at Sirunki was
exchanged for shells, body oils, axe blades, and bird plumes. Wabag was founded in 1939 as an airstrip for
supplies and aerial surveys in that region. It became a patrol post in 1941. Frosts destroyed gardens and
caused severe famines in 1941 and 1972 in the Kandep, Laiagam, and Porgera areas. Catholic and Gutnius
Lutheran missionaries arrived in 1947, Seventh-day Adventists in 1949. In 1948, a minor gold rush occurred
at Porgera. In 1973, Enga district was created from the western half of the Western Highlands and a piece of
the Southern Highlands.

16. MANUS

Manus has 208 islands scattered over 220 000 square km of sea. Manus has the smallest land area and
population of any province. Its people are fishermen and subsistence farmers. Most live in isolation from
other people of the province. Timber, copra, and cocoa are the main commercial exports. However, Manus top
export has been well-educated young people who get jobs outside the province and send money home. Manus
people hold a large number of top government posts, far more then their share based on population.

SUMMARY
Population: 32 713 citizens and 127 expatriates.
Land area: 2100 square km.
Headquarters: Lorengau
Members in Parliament: 2

HISTORY
Scientists believe Melanesian people settled the Admiralties more than 10 000 years ago. Micronesians from
the north settled many of the Western islands. Volcanic glass from Lou Is was traded widely in the southwest
Pacific for use in spears, scrapers, and other sharp tools.
Manus was part of the area annexed by Germany in 1884. Germans developed coconut plantations on many
islands. They also carried dysentery and other diseases that killed many people on the islands. Lutherans
founded missions in 1914. Catholics started missions in 1920, Seventh-day Adventists in the 1930s.

Japanese troops took Manus Is without a fight in April 1942. Villages suffered heavy damage when Allied
troops recaptured the islands after 6 weeks of fighting in early 1944. Seeadler Lombrum then served as the
staging base of America's invasion of the Philippines. The wartime exposure to outside influences spurred an
interest in education in Manus. It also led to cargo cult movements, most notably a religious cult known as
the New Way, associated with Paliau Maloat.

17. NEW IRELAND

New Ireland has 149 islands spread over 230 000 square km of sea. It is a leading exporter of timber and
copra. Tuna and gold are other important resources. Lihr is has one of the largest undeveloped gold mines in
the world. Gold has been found on nearby islands too.

SUMMARY
Population: 86 741 citizens and 258 expatriates.
Land area: 9600 square km.
Members in Parliament: 3.
Headquarters: Kavieng.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Kavieng; 23 937; Tigak, Nalik, Kara.
Konos; 13 508; Madak, Tabar, Notsi.
Lihir; hq at Potzlaka; 6805; Lihir.
Mussau Emira; hq at Palakau; 3234; Emira-Mussau.
Namatanai; 26 925; Tangga, Patpatar.
New Hanover, hq at Taskul; 12 332; Tungak.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people lived on New Ireland at least 30 000 years ago. This idea is based on remains in
rock shelters near Namatanai. There is evidence of trade 12 000 years ago. Lapita pottery 3700 years old has
been found on Eloaua Is, near Mussau.
Methodists started a mission at Kalili in 1875. Also in the 1870s, many New Irelanders were taken to work
plantations in Queensland and Samoa. Pressure from church leaders and traders stopped this 'blackbirding'.
During German rule (1884-1914), most mountain people were required to move to the coast. In the early
1900s, Germans built PNG's first major road (the Boluminski Highway) to connect plantations on the east
coast with Kavieng, the only good port. Catholic missions began in 1901.

Japanese soldiers captured Kavieng on 23 January 1942, at the beginning of World War II. They made it a
major port and aircraft base. Allied bombing killed many villagers as well as Japanese. But the Allies never
invaded. They accepted Japan's surrender at Namatanai on 19 September 1945.

18. EAST NEW BRITAIN

East New Britain has been PNG's top producer of copra cocoa, and a leader in timber. This was disrupted by
destructive volcanic eruptions at Rabaul, the commercial center, in September 1994. The setback seemed
likely to be only temporary. The Gazelle Peninsula benefits from rich volcanic soils, one of the best natural
harbours in the South Pacific, and a good road network. However, a high population growth rate is causing
land pressures and social tensions. Pomio district in the southern half of the province is underdeveloped. Big
mountains, heavy rainfall, and poor soils are limitations. The provincial government is developing roads,
housing, and cash crops. However, many Pomio people want to form a separate province.

SUMMARY
Population: 184 364 citizens and 1095 expatriates.
Land area: 15 500 square km.
Members in Parliament: 5.
Headquarters: Rabaul.
Districts; citizen population; and major languages:
Kokopo; 46696; Kuanua Baining.
Pomio; 28 870; Mengen, Mamusi, Kol, Baining.
Rabaul; 108 798; Kuanua, Duke of York, Baining.

HISTORY
Scientists believe people settled New Britain at least 12 000 years ago. Trade occurred at least 2500 years
ago, according to the dating of volcanic glass found on Watom Is. It had come from Talasea in West New
Britain. The Tolais, who comprise two-thirds of East New Britain's population, invaded the Gazelle Peninsula
from New Ireland several hundred years ago. They drove the Baining and Sulka people into the mountains.
Germans began the permanent European settlement of East New Britain with copra trading posts at Mioko,
Duke of York Is, in 1874 and Matupit Island, Blanche Bay, in 1876. Rev. George Brown started a Methodist
mission at Port Hunter, Duke of Yorks, in 1875. Catholic (Sacred Heart) priests began work on the coast north
of Rabaul in 1882. In 1883, the first expatriate coconut plantation was founded near Kokopo and Catholics
began the Vunapope mission. Kokopo was headquarters of German New Guinea from 1899 to 1910, when a
new town and headquarters were built at Rabaul because of its better harbour. The Germans got title to more

than one-third of the Tolai lands for plantations before Australia took control in 1914 at the outset of World
War I. The Seventh-day Adventist Church began missions in 1929. In May 1937, Rabaul's Vulcan and
Tavurvur volcanoes erupted violently. Rock and ash killed 507 people and caused much damage.
Japanese troops captured Rabaul on 23 January 1942 and made it their main base for the South Pacific during
World War II. They built 580 km of tunnels in Rabaul and the northern Gazelle to protect troops, supplies,
and equipment. The Allies bombed the area heavily but did not try to recapture Rabaul. The Japanese
surrendered in September 1945.
In the 1950s, the Tolai Cocoa Project got the Gazelle Peninsula off to a lead in that industry. In 1966, New
Britain was divided into east and west districts. In 1984, many people left Rabaul and businesses closed after
a series of earthquakes and warnings by scientists that volcanic eruptions seemed likely. New eruptions of
Tavurvur and Vulcan volcanoes in September 1994 killed 5 people and forced more than 50 000 from their
homes. A warning/evacuation plan developed in 1984 helped keep the death toll down.

19. WEST NEW BRITAIN

West New Britain is PNG's volcano, oil palm, and timber centre. It is also among the leaders in copra
production. The province has 5 active volcanoes and the craters of 16 dormant or extinct ones. The rich
volcanic soils of the north-east coastal plain are PNG's leading source of timber and palm oil. Many people
have come to West New Britain as plantation labourers or settlers on oil palm estates. One-fourth of the
population was born outside the province. Conflicts have grown between settlers and villagers. The provincial
government announced plans to repatriate 4800 illegal settlers and villagers. West New Britain
also has a
high birth rate, which is creating land shortages and tribal conflict in some areas. The south coast, with heavy
rainfall, rougher terrain, and poorer soils, has less population and development.

SUMMARY
Population: 129 664 citizens and 526 expatriates.
Land area: 24 575 square km.
Members in Parliament: 3.
Headquarters: Kimbe.
Districts; citizens; major languages:
Bialla; 25 720; Nakanai, Melamela.

Gloucester; 12 009; Kaliai, Mok-Aria- Bibling, Kilenge.


Kandrian; 21 630; Arawe, Moewehafen, Pulie, Rauto.
Kirnbe; 70 305; Bali-Witu, Bola, Kove-Kaliai, Mok-Aria.

HISTORY

Scientists believe 'mokmok', the traditional money of the inland Kaulong people, was in use 20 000 years
ago. Volcanic glass from Talasea was traded 12 000 years ago. It and Lapita pottery were traded as far away
as Samoa and Borneo 4000 years ago. There is evidence of human activity 10 000 years ago in Misisil cave,
inland from Kandrian. People along both coasts were part of the extensive Vitiaz trade and exchange
network. Shells, pots, canoes, and carvings moved between New Britain and Morobe and Madang on the
mainland.
West New Britain became a separate administrative district in 1966, after 80 years of German and Australian
colonial rule from Rabaul. Little development occurred during the colonial period, except the scattered
development of coconut plantations. Catholics started missions in the early 1900s.
Japanese troops took over all of New Britain in January 1942, at the start of World War II. Allied troops
invaded Arawe and Cape Gloucester in December 1943. They controlled most of West New Britain when
Japan surrendered in September 1945.
In the 1960s, the government bought big areas of fertile, unused land between the Willaumez Peninsula and
Open Bay for resettlement schemes and agricultural development. Two major nucleus estate-smallholder oil
palm projects have been developed: 10 000 ha at Hoskins and 6000 ha at Bialla. In May 1985, earthquakes
caused more than K1 million damage near Bialla.

20. NORTH SOLOMONS

North Solomons had PNG's most productive economy and one of its most effective government and
education systems before a seccsionist uprising disrupted it in 1989. Restoration programs since 1991 have
been aimed at bringing the province back to those levels. By 1992 North Solomons ranked second in cocoa
exports and fifth in copra. It led in cocoa and was second in copra before the disruptions. The big copper/gold
mine at Panguna has enough ore reserves to warrant re-opening. Whether that would happen, and who would
do it remained in question.

SUMMARY
Population: 154 000 (estimate).
Land area: 9300 square km.
Members in Parliament: 4
Headquarters: Arawa
District; citizens; major languages:

Buin; 45 048 (estimate); Buin, Siwai, Nagovisi, Banoni.


Buka, hq Buka Passage; 50 713 (estimate); Halia, Teop, Solos, Nehen.
Kieta; 58 239 (estimate); Nasioi, Rotokas, Eivo.

HISTORY
Recent discoveries indicate that people lived on Buka for at least 28 000 years. The German New Guinea
Company began trading with North Solomons people in the late 1800s. It recruited men for its plantations
and its police force in other areas. Catholics (Marists) started a mission at Kieta in 1901. Methodists started
at Siwai in 1920 and Seventh-day Adventists at Lavelai in 1924.
Japanese soldiers took over North Solomons early in 1942, at the outset of World War II. American troops
recaptured Torokina on 1 November 1943. They used it as an air base to bomb Japan's headquarters at
Rabaul.
North Solomons was the centre of movements to break away from Australian control in the 1960s and early
1970s. These movements came to a head in disputes over land for the BCL mine (Panguna) and harbour
(Loloho) and the landowners' right to a share of the rnine's profits. Compromises were reached and the mine
went ahead.
In 1974, North Solomons leaders won the right to set up a provincial government which would share in the
mine's benefits. In 1975, another secession threat arose after the House of Assembly failed to make provincial
government part of PNG's Constitution. On 1 September-only 2 weeks before Independence-rebels raised a
flag of the Republic of North Solomons at Kieta. The government ignored this act, and Parliament quickly
added provincial government as the first amendment to the Constitution.
Between 1972 and 1989, the Panguna mine contributed close to K1 000 000 000 in taxes and dividends to the
national government. It gave the province high wage levels and opened up many other jobs in service
industries. However, Panguna landowners remained angry about the disruptions caused by the mine and their
relatively small share (K23 000 000) of its benefits.
Rebellion and restoration: militants led by Francis Ona waged a campaign of sabotage and killing, which
forced BCL to close the mine on 15 May 1989. Ona demanded independence, permanent closure of the mine,
and K1 OOO OOO OOO in compensation. His actions were supported by some church leaders and
expatriates who had been critical of environmental damage and social disruptions caused by the mine. Ona's
Bougainville Revolutionary Army (BRA) attracted supporters from outside the mine area. These included
people who
were angry about the success of businessmen and/or plantation workers from outside the province; a religious
cult; and criminal elements who had been the target of a police curfew operation in western Bougainville. In
June 1989, the government broke precedent and sent soldiers to fight the rebels. A ceasefire was signed by
the government and the BRA in March 1990. All police, soldiers, and government services were withdrawn
from Buka and Bougainville. The BRA declared independence and the formation of the Republic of
Meekamui on 17 May 1990. Other nations did not recognise the republic. Government troops landed on
Buka on 13 September 1990 at the request of local chiefs. They made their first landing on Bougainville on
13 April 1991. Volunteer resistance fighters helped the army. The restoration program progressed as the army

regained territory. Interim authorities were established. Villagers fled from BRA-controlled areas and sought
security and shelter in government care centres. At the peak, 60 000 people-more than one-third of the
population-lived in centres.
The restoration program was directed by Interim Administrator Sam Tulo, a former MP. Priorities included
the re-establishment of law and order; care for displaced persons (still 33 000 in early 1994); restoration of a
functioning community and district government system, schools, and health care; and the rebuilding of roads,
airports, and other infrastructure. By 1994, 85 community schools and 6 high schools had opened. Rural
Development Bank offered a special loan scheme to encourage new businesses.

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