Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
TWO
PAST PHOTOS
THREE
COLOR STUDY
FOUR-FIVE
PRIORITY MODES
SIX-SEVEN
EIGHT
NINE
TEN-ELEVEN
T W E LV E - T H I R T E E N
FOURTEEN-FIFTEEN
SIXTEEN-SEVENTEEN
CAMERA RAW
LIGHTROOM
PORTRAITS
BANNACK
TASTEFUL TYPOGRAPHY
PERSPECTIVE OF 12
EIGHTEEN
REFLECTORS
NINETEEN
FLEXIBLE EDITS
TWENTY
PROFESSIONAL PAGE
Past Photos
Color Study
Priority Modes
The Process
The priority modes that we focused on were shallow and deep depth of field,
and blurred and frozen motion. Depth of field is useful when you are trying to
focus on a specific object close or far away. What youre focused on will be
sharp and clear while the other objects in the image will be blurry and have
bokeh. Blurry and frozen motion are useful when you are trying to show a
motion frozen, clear, and focused; it could be a person jumping or leaves
falling. Or you can show something blurry like a waterfall or a stream to show
that its moving and gives the image a more surreal look.
With each of these priority modes, your camera needs to be on the right
settings. On a Canon Rebel t3i, to get deep or shallow depth of field you have
to hold down the zoom in button on the top right and rotate the dial on the
top of the camera while youre holding down the button. You will see when
you look through your lense a red dot rotating around the different focal
points. When you stop rotating the dial you will choose the focal point that you
want. In this image on the right, I chose the focal point to be on the far right so
the leaf would be in focus, and the temple is out of focus.
To adjust how much blur you will get in your image you have to play with the
shutter speed, f-stop, and your ISO. The longer the shutter speed, the more
blurry your image will be, but keep in mind you will need a lower ISO and
f-stop because youre letting a lot more light into the camera than you would
at a slower shutter speed. For frozen motion, the opposite applies: low shutter
speed, high ISO and f-stop.
Camera Raw
Lightroom
Portraits
Bannack
Typography
I took these series of photos at the nature park, in Rexburg, Idaho, to
get all of the different aspects of earth. So in this book the air and
water images portray this idea. I took both of these images and
edited them by adjusting the shadows, the sharpness of the tree and
the duck, and the saturation to make the images look a little bit more
blue. Then I added text and adjusted the opacity of the text a little bit.
On the image with the duck, I wanted the word water to look like it was
rippling with the water in the image, so I used the smudge tool to make
it look more rippled and blend in with the water.
For the FIne Art Template on the left, I opened a new document: 18 in.
wide x 12 in. high in Photoshop. I drew a black rectangle on the left,
held Option-Cmd-T to bring up the Free Transform options, held shift
and drug the rectangle to one side. I pressed enter to lock it and held
Shift-Option-Cmd-T three more times until I had five rectangles total. I
selected the background layer, held shift and select the squares layer.
I clicked the Align Horizontal Center icon in the Menu Bar at the top.
I added my name then inserted a scan of my signature behind and
reduced the opacity. I opened an image and went to Image-Image
size and changed the size/resolution to match the template. I drug the
image on top of the template and created a clipping mask.
Perspective of 12
Reflectors
Flexible Edits
BLACK
The subject stood in the sun so the reflector
could completely black out the sun using the
black side. As shown in the before and after
photos, the black reflector completely blocks
out the sun and makes it appear as if the
subject is standing in the shade.
GOLD
The gold side of the reflector creates a nice
warm feel on the subjects face. Because the
day was very sunny, we had her sit in the shade
and the trick is, to bend the reflector so the gold
isnt such a harsh and bright reflection.
DIFFUSER
The subject stood in the sun and a diffuser was
held up to shadow the subject. The diffuser
makes the sunlight a lot less harsh. But, it is
different from the black side of the reflector
because more sunlight comes through the
diffuser. This is a much softer look.
BEFORE
AFTER
Dodge and Burn is created
by holding OPTION (ALT) and
clicking on new layer. Rename
the layer Dodge and Burn. Pick
the color to be gray. Choose
the overlay blending mode and
check the box and press OK.
Then, select the brush tool and
adjust the opacity to be low
(between 5-15) and make sure
you toggle the brush by pressing
X so the white color is being
used. If you Dodge too much
then you can burn it back to
what it was by pressing X again.
You can changethe intensity by
adjusting the opacity.
I dodged and burned her face
after I used the spot healing
brush. I liked how the dodge
looked on her eyesit really
brightened them up. On the
pumpkin, the dodge and burn
tool allowed me to highlight and
make the pumpkin look more
contrasted and bright.
Contact
hayleydesign.com
@mrshayleyward_
@__haylz
http://www.pinterest.com/hayleywardxo/
hw