1.

FLOOR PANELS
Measure for, make up, trial fit and then finish the floor panels.
F-0700 Foot well
F-0730
F-0710 front of baggage area
F-2120
F-0720 rear of baggage area

end of baggage area

seat side panels

The panels are fixed to tabs on the airframe using self-tapping screws 128163. Guide holes should be
drilled from the underside for accuracy; Drill with 1/8 drill bit. This must obviously be done before
putting the fabric on the fuselage, to enable access. The foot well can be cut short of the tabs for the
rudder pedals or notched around either way is fine. The two back panels need cutouts for the push tube
locations as well as fuel line routing and around some tubing. The end of baggage bay needs cutouts for
the push tube and rudder cables.
2. VERTICAL STABILIZER
STEP 1
Fit the plug-in fin (F-0740) into the stern post and forward fuselage attachment points. The plug in
legs must fit snugly into the fuselage sockets, the correct balance between the front and back points will
determine the correct angle of the rear of the fin. Be careful not to force in the legs as they can be
difficult to remove and can easily be bent. Use a straight edge to align the 2 hinge points on the fin and
the hinge point on the fuselage, see Figure 2.1.1.a, its best to use the rudder to verify the alignment.
All hinge points must be in line otherwise the rudder will bind. Once the fin is correctly seated and the
hinge alignment is set, drill a 3/16 hole through the forward socket and front leg of fin and ream and
secure with AN3-10A bolt AN 960-10 washer, AN 365-103 nut. See Figure 2.1.1b Drill 2 holes in the
rear post at the 10:30 and 1:30 positions. Put in 2 CCP44 Rivets.
Forward fuselage
attachment point
for fin

AN3-10A bolt

Figure 2.1.1a

Figure2.1.1b
1

STEP 2
Ream out the 3 rudder hinge bushes on the fin and fuselage stern post using a long reach 3/16
reamer.
STEP 3
Temporarily install the rudder, F-0760, onto the stern post with the AN393-79 pin. When finally
fitted, the clevis pins are held in place with cotter pins AN380-2-2.
STEP 4
Trim the rudder stops to allow 30 rudder travel in each direction, see Figure 2.1.4. This is best
achieved when you have the elevators put on and the leading edge of the elevator clamped to the
leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Trim the rudder stops so the gap between the rudder and the
elevator is a uniform distance from the leading edge of the rudder to the trailing edge of the rudder.
Work up to the correct angle with small cuts; do not take off more than is needed.

REAR VIEW OF FIN

showing rudder stops
trimmed
Figure 2.1.4

FUSELAGE STRINGER INSTALLATION

Stringers to enhance the shape of the aircraft are fitted to both sides, rear fuselage top and the
fuselage bottom. All are made from 1/2 aluminum tube.
3.1

FUSELAGE TOP STRINGER

STEP 1
Use F-1560 stringer material. The straight end fits onto the spigot just behind the turtle deck rear
support tubing. It is then supported by 2 vertical spigots welded to the fuselage top, position the tube
against the spigots and drill holes for the spigots to be inserted into the tube. The bent end of the tube
should be chamfered to fit the front tube of the vertical stabilizer. Match profile with vertical stabilizer,
mark and cut the spigots to match height of the stringer. *Note* Curved part must be pulled down to a
measurement taken from the front stabilizer bushing to the curved part of the tube cannot exceed 3.5 to
4so that the front stabilizer bushing can stick through the fabric. See figure 3.2.1.1

Figure 3.2.1.1

STEP 2
When satisfied with the fit secure at the top with a CCP 44 rivet and structural adhesive. When
completely dry blend the joints at both ends of the stringer, so as to have a smooth transition so it wont
show through the fabric when covered.
3.2

FUSELAGE SIDE STRINGERS

STEP 1
Use F-1550 stringer material. The stringers start from the spigot on the tubing junction just behind
the door opening as shown in Figure 3.2.a. The aft end of the stringer is located on the spigot on the
fin support diagonal frame tube Figure 3.2.b. The stringers are attached onto the pre welded spigots
along each side, use them (the spigots) to mark and then drill holes in the stringer into which the
spigots can be inserted. The front and rear spigots can be gently bent to achieve a narrower look if you
wish. The side spigots will need trimming to achieve a nice symmetrical look.

Figure 3.2.a
Figure 3.2.b

Figure 3.2.c

Figure 3.2.d

STEP 2
When you are happy with the fit and shape then you may fix in place with structural adhesive, hold in
place with tape/clamps as necessary. See figures 3.2.c/d, when completely dry blend the joints at both
ends of the stringer, so as to have a smooth transition and for it not to show through the fabric when
covered.
3.3 FUSELAGE BOTTOM STRINGER
The bottom stringer can be prepared at this time, however be aware that more careful handling of the
fuselage frame will be required as the stringer and its supports are below the fuselage floor level and
can easily be bent or damaged.
The procedure for these is slightly different, as the stand-offs need to be cut to size and fitted in the
fuselage station bushings. Holes are then drilled into stringer for each of the standoff inserts.
STEP 1
Locate the F-1580.1 standoff tubing. This will be cut into appropriate lengths and then inserted into
the 10 fuselage bushings, held in place with a CCP42 1/ x 1/8 Stainless rivet inserted into a hole drilled
through both the standoff and the fuselage bushing. See figures 3.3.a/b

Figure 3.3.a

Figure 3.3.b

STEP 2
The stringer F-1570.0 stretches from the firewall to just past the 10th fuselage cross member (the one
behind the battery location, i.e. 3rd from rear). The forward end of the stringer tube will need to be
flattened against the fuselage bottom/first bushing; otherwise it will interfere with the top of nose gear
leg. The rear end is also flattened and bend around the fuselage cross tube upward into the fuselage
(last half inch or so). The length of the inserts will determine the amount of shaping for the bottom line,
in order to have sufficient clearance for the flap handle mechanism the insert should be 2 to 3 long
for the 5th cross member (under the seat). The others should be cut to give a smooth curve to the
stringer. See figure 3.3.b. The inserts should be fitted with the top level with the bushing top surface
and secured with rivets F-1580.2.

STEP 3
When you are happy with the fit and shape (inserts may be gently bent to give a good line) then fix in
place with structural adhesive, hold in place with tape/clamps as necessary. When completely dry blend
the joints at the front end of the stringer, so as to have a smooth transition and for it not to show
through the fabric when covered.
4 MAIN GEAR
STEP 1
Mount the landing gear legs on the fuselage with AN4-23 bolts. Put an AN960-416 washer on both
sides of bolt and secure with AN310-4 nut, AN380-2-2 cotter pin.
5

The tail dragger configuration has the legs on the forward attachment points with the thicker tube of
the leg forward.
The nose gear configuration has the legs on the rear most attachment points with the thicker tube of the
leg towards the back.
5.

SHOCK ASORBER (BUNGEE)

Step 1
Install the 2 bungees with 3 wraps on each side. This allows bungees to lie flat on spreaders. See the
bungee wrap section in Appendix E. See figure 5.1

Figure 5.1
STEP 2
INSTALL BUNGEE LIMITING STRAP AND SECURE TO THE BUNGEE STRUT WITH ZIP TIES. SEE FIGURE 5.2

FIGURE 5.2
STEP 3
Install V brace (F-0540) to fuselage. Use AN4-23 bolts with AN960-416 washer, put a washer on
both sides of bolt and secure with AN310-4 nut and cotter pin AN 380-2-2. Grease bolt on final
assembly.

STEP 4
Install bungee struts F-0510 to connect landing gear legs F-0155 and V brace with short end to V
brace and longer end to leg assembly. Use AN4-14 bolts with AN960-416 washer and AN310-4 nut
with cotter pins AN 380-2-2. See Figure 5.3

Figure 5.3

TAILWHEEL ASSEMBLY

There is now a location on the rear of the fuselage to bolt on a rear Tail Wheel Spring Attach
Bracket. This can be used in severe conditions for a rear mount but is not necessary in normal
conditions. We do not supply parts for this; you can fabricate them if you wish. Just bolt a flat
piece of steel across the spring.
STEP 1
Drill and ream 3/16 holes in the rudder horns for steering springs. See Figure 6.1. The rudder horn
F-0765 is inserted, as far as possible, into the bottom of the rudder; ream as necessary to get a good fit.
The horns should be at right angles to the rudder center line. Drill and ream a 3/16 hole through both
rudder and rudder horn approximately from bottom of rudder, Attach rudder horn with AN 3-11A
bolt AN 960-10 washer and AN 365-1032A nylock nut, see Figure 6.1
7

AN3-11-A

F-0765
Rudder Horn

Bolt

3/16 hole in
rudder horn

Rudder

Figure 6.1
STEP 2
Trial fit rudder F-0760 to stern post of fuselage using clevis pins AN393-79.
STEP 3
Install the F-0020 tail wheel assembly on the slightly curved side of the F-0030 steel leaf spring using
the AN5-13 bolt and an AN 310-5 castle nut with AN 960-516 washer and AN 813-2-2 cotter pin.
Install the flat side of the F-0030 spring onto the fuselage using the AN6-15A bolt, AN365-624A
nyloc nut and AN960-616 washer.
Trial fit the F-0060 steering springs (which wont actually be fitted until final assembly of the
rudder). The springs may need one or two links of chain to achieve the correct tension. See figure 6.2
AN6-15A
bolt

AN5-13
bolt

F-0030
Leaf spring

Chain links on
steering spring
F-0060
Figure 6.2

7. NOSE WHEEL ASSEMBLY AND FITTING.

STEP 1
Ream nose gear locating bushes on the firewall, the lower of the two bushings at top right and left of
firewall. Attach the nose wheel mounting frame F-3400 with the AN4-25A bolt, AN960-416 washer
and AN365-428 nut.
8

STEP 2
Ream the firewall brackets on the bottom of the firewall, where they attach.
STEP 3
Insert the bronze bearings F-3420.1 into the F-3400.1 blocks (they may be a little tight, a squeeze fit
is expected). We use a vice to press these in.
STEP 4
Place the blocks, with the lip of the bronze bushing on the inside, onto the top of the gear leg F-3490.
Assemble to the fuselage bracket and attach with AN4-15A bolts, AN960-416 washers and AN365-428
nuts in the rear and AN4-16A Bolts, AN960-416 washers and AN365-428 nuts in the front. See figure
7.1

FIGURE 7.1

STEP 5
The suspension pin F-3450 is attached to the top of the gear leg using an AN4-14 bolt AN 960-414
washer and AN 310-4 castellated nut with AN 380-2-2 cotter pin. The pin is stacked with a washers
and shock absorbers in this order. First is a thick washer F-3590.6, then a shock absorber F-3440.0, A
thin washer F-3590.5, another shock absorber, another thin washer, another shock absorber and finally
the last thick washer. See figure 7.2. The suspension pin goes up through the firewall frame. Then it
will receive two AN970-3 washers with the hole drilled out to . Then an AN960-416 washer and an
AN365-428A nut tighten this nut so a minimum of two threads show through. When tightened (without
weight on leg) the suspension parts are just pinched.
9

FIGURE 7.2

STEP 6
Assemble the nose wheel tire and tube as provided, use plenty of baby powder inside tire and on tube.
Inflate and deflate 3 times before final inflation.( After coating inside of tire with powder vacuum out
excess.)

STEP 7
The assembled wheel fits between the forks of the nose assembly. Spacers F-3530 are required to
ensure that the wheel runs in the center of the forks. The axle bolt feeds through the fork leg, a spacer,
the wheel bearing, another spacer then the other fork leg. It is secured with the axle nut and cotter pin
(you may need additional washers). The spacers should be of sufficient length that there is no wobble
when tightened i.e. that the bolt holds the fork legs tightly (and parallel) against the spacers, which are
held tightly against the bearing. See figure 7.3

10

Figure 7.3

STEP 8
The fork assembly F-3570.4 has bronze bearings EF202424 inserted into both ends of the pivot tube
(again a tight press fit is expected). We use a vise to squeeze these in. See figure 7.4.

STEP 9
The complete assembly is put onto the shaft of the nose gear leg as follows: Slide the wheel yoke
onto the axle shaft, then place a 33464 washer onto the shaft, then the F-3590.3 friction bushing
another 33464 washer and its all held in place with a 06-11800 nut. Tighten the nut until the wheel
moves relatively tight it should take 20lbs of force to move the wheel. You can measure this force with
a fish scale. Place the aircraft in an attitude where the nose wheel is off the ground, hook the fish scale
on the nose wheel fork at or around the nose wheel axle pull on the fish scale and record how many lbs.
of pressure it takes to move the wheel. Tighten the friction nut until it takes 20 lbs to move the wheel.
Secure nut with cotter pin. See figure7.4.

11

EF202424

F-3590.3

33464

Figure 7.4

8. TAIL SKID
When fitted with nose gear and the wings are folded the rear end becomes very light with the
possibility that the balance can be disturbed and the tail goes for the ground, in order to ensure that the
rudder does not get damaged the aircraft is fitted with a small tail skid.
STEP 1
Tail skid F- 3591 is fitted to the same position as the tail spring would be using the same bolt and
some additional washers. The skid also has a ring for the rear tie down point.
9. RUDDER PEDAL INSTALLATION
STEP 1
The rudder pedal dual unit F-0800 is attached to the fuselage by 4 hinge ring plates (on the unit) each
of which has 2 bolts (AN3-5A) securing it to the fuselage brackets using an AN 960-10 washer and a
AN 365-1032 nyloc nut. Use Rudder Pedal Shim F-0800.2 as a spacer between Rudder Pedal assembly
and the fuselage tabs. See figure 9.1 The bottom tube will have to be trimmed in length to fit and some
massaging may be necessary to achieve a smooth operation. Once located and all bolts will go in and
operation is smooth move pedals to the most forward position they will go and drill through the two oil
holes in the inner two bushings with a #40 bit. Place two of he 3/32 rivets in these holes this will hold
the bushings in the correct place while painting. After painting remove rivets.
12

Shims go under here

Figure 9.1
10. HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
The horizontal stabilizer is in two pieces. The two halves are symmetrical, but once fitted to a
particular side they should remain there because after drilling and fitting with securing bolts they
become handed. F-1000.0 becomes the left hand side; F-1010.0 becomes the right hand side.
The F-1020 front attach bracket determines the angle of tailplane incidence, see Figure 10.1. Once the
stabilizers etc. are fitted, they must be adjusted to give zero degrees incidence. These angles are relative
to a level head rack; see Step 2.
F-1020

Picture shows the front

attach bracket secured in
place after setting of correct
incidence

Protruding
bushing
Horizontal
stabilizer

Figure 10.1

13

The horizontal stabilizers are held in place with bushing tubes (one front and one rear), which go
through the fuselage sockets. The legs of each stabilizer unit will slide onto the protruding part of the
bushing. The stabilizer legs are then secured to the sleeve by bolts in the front attachment.
STEP 1
Ream the following to clear powder coating over-spray and weld penetrations:
On each stabilizer half:
2 bushings for flying wire attachment
Two elevator hinge points
Front attach bracket (use bushing tube to ensure correct fit).
Rear Fuselage socket (use bushings to ensure correct fit).
STEP 2
Immobilize the fuselage frame using scrap timber and clamps. Ensure that it sits level in both sideto-side and forward-backward directions by using a spirit level across the cockpit head-rack tubes.
STEP 3
The forward attach bracket F-1020 is placed on the fin insert post. When the horizontal stabilizer has
been fitted and positioned you will drill a hole for the AN4-11A bolt AN960-416 washer and AN
365-428A nut which holds the attach bracket to the insert post. See Figure 10.1 above.
STEP 4
Insert F-1040 rear bushing plug-in sleeve tube; insert F-1020 front bushing tube in sleeve tube. See
Figure 10.2

F-1020.1 front
bushing

Forward attach bracket with bushing tube

through sleeve and inserted into stabilizer
legs (there should be no gap when finally
fitted, gap shown to help clarity

F-1040 rear
bushing

Figure 10.2

Figure 10.3
14

STEP 5
Plug stabilizer halves onto bushing tubes (front and rear). Stops are built into the stabilizer legs to
ensure that the correct amount of bushing tube is inserted. See Figure 10.3 Trim bushing tubes so they
bottom completely at joint line.

STEP 6
Align the rear edge of the stabilizers - the elevator must not bind, to ensure that the elevator hinge
points on the stabilizer line up correctly; use a straight edge to achieve this. When finally fitted the
stabilizer halves are secured to the front bushings; drill 3/16 holes into stabilizer and through the
bushing tube approximately outboard of join line. Use eyebolts AN42B-10A with AN 960-10
washer and AN 365-1032 nyloc nut. This bolt also will hold transport jury strut attach point at final
assembly.

STEP 7
The symmetry of both halves has to be set so that the stabilizers are at 90 degrees to the fin/fuselage
and are held firmly in this position during the next steps of fitting flying wires. This is achieved by
measuring from a point at the top of the fin to identical marks on the horizontal stabilizers spar tube
these marks should be equal distance from the stabilizers center (use masking tape to aid clear
marking). Adjust horizontal stabilizer until both dimensions are identical and clamp securely in place.

Step 8
The four upper cable braces are fitted next. Ream any powder coat residue from the 12 flying wire
attachment tabs (F-1110) for the (3/16) securing bolts. Drill out the other ear of each tab to 7/32
(5.5mm) and ensure that a Nicopress thimble will pass through the hole without binding.

Step 9
Secure a tab with each of the horizontal and vertical stabilizer bushings using bolts (AN3-14A and
AN3-14A), one at a time without disturbing the symmetry setting of the horizontal stabilizer. Add 3
adjustment washers between horizontal stabilizer and tab see Figure 10.4.

15

STEP 10
Secure a tab either side of the 2 bushes in the fin with the AN3-14A (front) and AN3-14A (rear) bolts
provided using 3 washers each side as spacers (i.e. between the bush and tab) and a single washer under
the nut; this is to provide for later adjustment for cable stretch in service. See Figure 10.4

Figure 10.4

Make up the cable braces (use F-1140 cable) in the same way that the rudder cables were fabricated
using a Nicopress sleeve (F-1150), a thimble (F-1160) and protective heat shrink sleeve at the each end
of the cable. While you are fabricating the cables try to keep them as taunt as possible, this will ensure
that you do not use up the adjustment washers on the initial fit. Build the cables using 3 washers, on
final assembly use only 2. This gives good tautness.
Hint: make, Nicopress and finish off one end of each cable first. Then set up the cable with all its
components in place and with the correct tautness, using a fine felt pen make marks on both pieces of
cable that go through the Nicopress sleeve so that you can remove the assembly and then realign off
the job - this will give a more accurately positioned sleeve than trying to maintain tension while
crimping the sleeve.

Step 11
The lower flying wires are made up of a single piece of cable that goes thru a nicopress sleeve,
around a thimble and back thru the nicopress sleeve. The cable must be long enough to go from the
front and back of the flying wire tabs on the bottom of the horizontal stablizer. Install the heat shrink
tube over the nicopress sleeve. Attach to fuselage with shackle and # 3 bolt. The loose ends will go thru
the nicopress sleeve and thimble on the front and rear tabs and are pulled tight, marked then removed
for crimping. You should do one at a time to make sure you get proper tension (preferably front first).
With washers under tabs final tightening can be achieved maintaining horizontal alignment. See figure
10.5

16

Lower flying wire.

Thimble Nicopress & Shrink Wrap

To lower fuselage tab

Figure 10.5

11. TRIM TAB INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Locate the elevator trim (piano-type) hinge MS20257-1 that will fit between the trim tab F-1180 and
the elevator F-1200.0 (left half). Position the elevator upside down on a work surface, then position the
tab upside down (i.e. with its lever arm pointing upwards). The gap between the two will be
approximately 1/8, i.e. the thickness of the hinges center section.
See figure 11.1
17

Figure 11.1

STEP 2
The hinge will need trimming on one side to go around the lever arm on the tab this will be a small
square nick (about 1/8 wide).
STEP 3
For safety purposes, to stop the hinge pin from coming out of the hinge, the pin should be trimmed to
be slightly shorter than the overall hinge length, and a small hole drilled through each end of the hinge
(beyond the pin ends) to take pin-retaining lock wire. See Figure 11.2.

Figure 11.2

STEP 4
Mark the hinge for the rivets that will locate it on the elevator and tab. There will be 7 or 8 equally
spaced rivets along each long edge of the hinge; these will be approximately 1 apart and should start
at - in from each end. Pilot drill the holes.

STEP 5
With the hinge in position between the elevator and trim tab, pilot drill through the hinge into the 2
components (elevator and trim tab). Now drill out all the holes for the CCP42 1/8 x 1/8 Stainless
rivets. It is recommended that you dont actually rivet the components until the final assembly phase,
after covering / painting etc. is finished.

18

12.
ELEVATOR CONTROL INSTALLATION
The two F-1380 control sticks are connected together inside the F-1260 mixer.
STEP 1
Take the F-1280 connecting rod and to each end screw a lock nut (AN316-4R) and fork end (AN4864P).
STEP 2
Install the control stick pivots into the mixer F-1260 using the AN4-17 bolts.
STEP 3
The ends of the connecting rod (fork ends) are bolted to the control stick pivots (F-1261) using AN35 boltsAn960-10 washers and AN 310-3 castle nut with AN 380-2-2 cotter pin. They should be
positioned such that both sticks are parallel. Adjust the length of the connecting rod by screwing the
fork ends (it may help temporarily to fit the control stick to the pivot). Ensure free movement and
grease the bolts before final assembly. See Figure 12.1.

Figure 12.1

STEP 4
The nylon control mixer bushings F-1310 (4 pieces - 2 pairs) locate over the control mixer and are
secured to the airframe mounting tabs (which should be reamed) using the AN3-25A bolts. 2 AN970-3
Penny washers should be used on each bolt between the UHMW blocks to act as a crush spacer and
under the bottom on the UHMW blocks to acts as a surface bearing. Secure with an AN 960-10 washer
and an AN 365-1032 nut.(It may be necessary to machine a notch in the bottom blocks to allow for bolt
length or add additional washers to make up for bolt length.) See figures 12.2

19

Figure 12.2 (mixer, from front)

Ensure that the

push pull attach
lugs are on the
left

# 3 Penny
Washer

The bushings should give a snug fit. The top bushing can be drilled with a 1/8 oil hole in the center
if you wish.
STEP 5
Nylon stops are fitted to inhibit sideways movement of the control mixer assembly. Locate the mixer
assembly centrally. Rivet each F-1310.1 UHMW strip to the control mixer on the outer side of the
bushings (between them and the control mixer towers) with two of the CCP44 1/8 x Stainless rivets.
See Figure 12.3

Mixer bushing
Add Hole

Figure 12.3

20

Note: The control mixer and fuselage frame act as control stops - full forward elevator (down) is
obtained when the mixer assembly is against the fuselage tube in front of the mixer; full aft elevator
(up) is obtained when the mixer assembly is against the fuselage tube behind the mixer. Aileron left
and right control is stopped by the stick pivot coming against the pivot tower side.

STEP 6
Fit the control sticks F-1380 onto the control stick pivot assembly F-1261; push them down as far as
the weld. Locate, mark and drill a side-to-side hole for the fitment of AN3-11A bolt with AN 960-10
washer and AN 365-1032 nyloc nut, 1 up from the bottom of stick. See Figure 12.4

AN3-11A

Figure 12.4

STEP 7
Install F-1330 rod end bearing and AN316-4R lock nut on one end of the F-1350 long elevator push
pull tube; the other end can be installed after the push/pull tube is installed in the nylon bushings.
STEP 8
Insert the F-1370.0 push/pull control rod nylon bushings into the 4 fuselage positions and lock in
place with the F-1370.1 retaining rings, see Figure 12.5

Figure 12.5

21

STEP 9
Install the (rear) push pull bell crank F-1400 using an AN6-40 bolt with an AN310-6 Castle Nut and
AN960-616 Washers as needed. Secure with AN380-3-3 cotter pin. Ream the bushings and the bell
crank using a 3/8 reamer; be sure to use a generous amount of grease on the bolt. Do not over tighten
the nut, the bell crank should move freely. See figure 12.6

FIGURE 12.6

STEP 10
At the front, install the push/pull tube through the front two F-1370.0 bushings and then install the
second rod end and lock nut.
STEP 11
Attach the long push/pull tube rod end to the operating arms on the bottom of the control stick mixer
assembly (F-1260) with the AN4-11A bolt; space with washers as necessary. Secure with a Nyloc Nut
See Figure 12.7

Install push rod tube temporarily (must be

Removed for final floor
board installation).

Figure 12.7
22

STEP 12
Attach the F-1350 long elevator push pull tube to the rear bell crank using the AN 4-12A bolt. The
long tube attaches to the long arm (bottom) of the bell crank and is padded out with AN 960-416
washers as necessary to ensure correct clearance. Sequence from top to bottom: bolt goes through the
bell crank, 1 or 2 washers, rod end, 1 or 2 washers, bell crank, washer and AN 365-428A nut. It is
necessary to bend the long tube slightly, just in front of the forward guide bushing. This will relieve
some of the binding and tension.

STEP 13
Fit an AN-316-4R nut and F-1330 rod end bearing to the forward end of the short push pull tube F1440. Insert the push pull tube through the 2 rear nylon bushings then fit an AN-316-4R nut and F1450 fork end on the rear end. Secure forward end of push pull tube to the bell crank with AN-4-11A
bolt (as per long tube instructions).

STEP 14
Before securing the clevis fork end F-1450 to the elevator horn fit the brass bushing (F-1470.4) into
the elevator horn (previously reamed in readiness) and then attach the fork end securely to the elevator
horn with AN4-7 bolt. See Figure 12.8

Figure 12.8
STEP 15
With the pitch control run fully assembled, check for full and free movement of the stick and control
run. The control run must be free enough for elevator to drop to the full down position when the stick
is released. The roll control should also be checked for full and free movement, but this can only really
be done during final assembly with the wings on etc. It is also advisable to check that the range of
elevator movement conforms to 28 UP and 28 DOWN + 2; adjust the lengths of the push/pull tubes
to achieve this.
23

13.

ELEVATOR INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Locate both halves of the elevator F-1200 (left side with trim tab cut-out) and F-1200.1 (right side).
Ream through hinges and control horn holes to clear powder coating over-spray and weld penetrations.
STEP 2
The elevator half F-1200 (left side) has 6 tabs welded into it for elevator trim purposes. Attach part#
F2740.0 to the aft most four tabs on the elevator using the CCP-44 rivets. Now line up part F2760.0 on
this plate by laying the trim tab into position and lining up F2760.0 with the trim tab. F2760.0 should
be straight with the tab on the trim tab and in the aft most position on the plate F2740.0. Figure 13.1

Figure 13.1
Step 3
Ream out the elevator control horn to enable the fitting of bushing F-1470.4.
STEP 4
Attach each elevator half to the horizontal stabilizer with the F-0770.0 pins provided. At this stage it
is a temporary fit, so save the cotter pins for final assembly.
STEP 5
The two halves of the elevator are secured together using the AN3-4A bolt. See Figure 13.2

Hole reamed for F1470.4 bushing

AN3-4A bolt holding

2 halves together

Figure 13.2
24

14

FLAP HANDLE INSTALLATION

The flaps (on the inboard end of the wing) are operated by cables which run from the flap bell crank
to the flap operating lever (push button control).
The flap handle is released by pushing on the button in the center of the flap lever this releases the
roll bolt, which allows the lever to be moved into one of the 4 positions of the flap. This is controlled
by the detentions in the flap plates.
The flap detention plates (F-2420) are held in position by bolts (AN4-17A) which go through the 4
bushings on the fuselage between the seats see figure14.1

Figure 14.1

STEP 1
Holes are pre drilled in the flap plates for the pulley attach (at rear) and the roll bolt (distance
between this and the detentions determine the amount of flap angle) you will need to drill the (1/4)
holes for the attachment points.
The push button rod should be assembled to allow approximately to 5/8 for push button action.
Install spring #F-2430.0 and drill push button rod approximately center of slot for AN 4-16 bolt.
Pushbutton should be smooth.
Flap plates should be assembled with the pivot bolt and roll bolt using penny washers on the roll bolt.
Handle should detent smoothly. Add both flap pulleys to flap plates.

25

This assembly should then be fitted to the fuselage bushings with 3/16 clearance on the flap handle
to frame and 3/16 clearance for pulleys to clear the cross member. When satisfied with clearances
between front and rear cross members, drill thru the bushings to locate the assembly in the frame. See
steps 3 thru 7 for proper hardware and additional information.
STEP 2
When satisfied with the position of attachment holes drill and attach plates to the bushings.
STEP 3
The flap handle is positioned between the flap plates and secured in place by passing the pivot bolt
AN4-16 through the flap plate, then through the hole in the handle and then through the other plate.
Secure with castle nut and cotter pin, not too tightly as the handle must easily pivot around the bolt see
figure 14.2
Pivot bolt

Figure 14.2

STEP 4
The Roll bolt is then installed. The procedure is as follows Insert spring F-2430 into the flap handle F-2400.
Insert push button insert F-2410 into flap handle F-2400.
Push down on the insert (and spring) until you are able to see the bolt hole in the insert, pass the roll
bolt AN4-16, with a penny washer AN970-4 under the head, through the plate (this will be in line with
the detentions) through the hole in the insert through the other plate, through the other penny washer
and secure with castle nut and cotter pin (F-2460.1/. 2/. 3).
26

STEP 5
Test the assembly to ensure free and correct movement. The best way is to just pull the lever up (this
would extent the flaps) the roll bolt should slide up and then snap into the next detent this should be the
same for all positions. The spring and roll bolt should hold the lever firmly in position. Apply pressure
on the push button to release the lever and move back to the neutral (zero) position (flap handle should
be just clear of fuselage tube). Adjust as necessary it should not be necessary to touch the detents as
this can affect the throw of the lever. Make adjustments to tightness of pivot and actuator (roll) bolts to
achieve smooth operation. When the final adjustment is made insert cotter pins to these bolts.
STEP 6
Install the pulleys F-2470 between the 2 flap plates and secure with AN4-15A bolts, remember to
install a cable keeper onto each pulley, make sure the cable comes over the pulley. See figures 14.2 and
14.3a/b

Figure 14.3a

Figure 14.3b

15. MANUAL TRIM INSTALLATION

The manual trim consists of an aluminum plate mounted between seat rails and an aluminum handle
and two nylon friction washers. The nylon washers are backed up with penny washers and an AN3-3
bolt and nyloc stop nut. See Figure15.1
The cable housing is clamped to the plate using an F-2770-0 housing clamp. The cable housing is run
through the fuselage and exits at the inspection hole at the elevator bell crank. The F-2740.0 (L)
bracket mounting plate will be riveted to the four tabs on the left elevator. Rivets should not protrude
above the fabric line. The L bracket is riveted to the mounting plate with 2 CCP42 1/8 x 1/8
stainless rivets and aligned with the trim tab bell crank. See Figure 13.1
The piano wire housing is secured at the cockpit and tail with cable housing clamp F-2770-0. A spring
is inserted between the piano wire and the L bracket and trim bell crank to prevent flutter (washers at
both ends of springs act as stops). See Figure15.2:
27

Figure 15.1

Figure 15.2

Figure 15.3

16.
SEAT AND HARNESS INSTALLATION
Procedure described below is the same for both seats.
STEP 1
Seat Back Locate seat back F-2000 and seat back panel F-2010. Trim the back panel and round
corners etc see figures 16.1a/b.

Figure 16.1a

Figure 16.1b
28

STEP 2
The seat back panel should be drilled for rivets using the attachment tabs as a guide (see figure
16.1b).The seat panels can be painted prior to final fixing with the 1/8x large head rivets.
STEP 3
Seat Base Locate seat base F-2030 and seat base panel F-2040. Trim the back panel and round
corners etc see figures 16.2a/b.

Figure 16.2a

Figure 16.2b

STEP 4
The seat base panel should be drilled for rivets using the 10 attachment tabs as a guide (see figure
16.2b).
The seat panels can be painted prior to final fixing with the F-2050 rivets. It is suggested that you
complete the seat and adjuster rail installation before finally fixing seat bottom panel to the frame.
STEP 5
The seat runners (4) F-2060 are attached along the top of the fuselage seat frame see figure 16.3and
are secured with 41010 1/8 x 1/4 flush aluminum rivets (countersink as necessary). Start 1 from front,
continue on 3 centers.

Figure 16.3

29

STEP 6
The seat adjuster rail requires a stop to be installed on the rear end of the rail to prevent the seat going
too far back. Locate rail F-2100 and position the F-2100.1 stop ring so seat cannot touch flap pulleys
from the end and secure with the 2 CCP44 1/8 x Stainless rivets supplied (F-2100.2).
STEP 7
The seat itself runs along the adjuster rail F-2100 this tube is fed through the 2 guide bushings on the
bottom of the seat base see figure 16.4

Figure 16.4

As an additional security the adjuster rail is secured to the fuselage frame using the F-2090 seat
anchor bracket. This bracket slides onto the adjuster rail, between the seat front and rear bushings, and
is bolted to the 2 fuselage bushings under the seat. Adjust the bolt holes on the bracket, so that the
anchor bracket does not interfere with the movement of the seat. Use bolts AN4-13A. It is ok to drill
the bolt holes larger.
STEP 8
The adjuster rail is secured to the fuselage frame with AN4-13A bolts (front and rear) using AN96010 washers and AN365-428 Nuts. Again be careful about getting the adjuster rail bolted in place, but
not so that it restricts seat movement.
STEP 9
The seats slide up and down the seat adjuster rail to give position adjustment. The most forward
position is reached when the seat is against the seat adjuster rail bracket. The most rearward position is
reached when the seat hits the stop bushing installed at step 6.
Intermediate adjustment points need to be drilled into the seat adjuster rail, use the seat locking pin
guide. Position the seat at the most forward position and drill a hole (1/4) through the top section of
rail (dont go through both sides of tube), move the seat back in 1 increments and drill for these
positions until the rear stop is reached (yes you do need to drill for the rearmost position positive
locking of seat). These holes can be reamed and cleaned out as necessary to ensure that the locking pin
moves into and out of the holes without sticking.
STEP 10
The seats are locked into position using the F-2080 seat adjustment pins. These are installed in the
front of the seat and are spring loaded to drop into the holes in the adjustment rail. Position pin in top
of guide, insert spring (F-2080.1) into the cut-out and drop pin down middle of spring, secure with the
cotter pin provided. See figure 16.5.
30

Figure 16.5.

Step 11
In order to restrict articles falling down the side of the seats a side piece F-2120 is fitted alongside
each seat. Locate the side pieces accurately on their mounting lugs and back drill holes through the
side piece. Mark out and trim each component as required until a satisfactory fit is achieved. (Note
that these components must be fitted until they no longer interfere with the aileron cables). Secure with
F-2120.1 self-tapping screws supplied. See figure 16.6

Figure 16.6

STEP 12
The seat backs F-2000 are secured to the seat base by the AN3-12A bolts. See figure 6.5.13
STEP 13
The lap parts of the seat belt F-2140 are attached to gussets on the seat base using the AN4-6A. See
figure 16.7. Each gusset should be marked out, center punched and drilled to receive the respective
bolt. When marking out take care to ensure that not only are standard hole edge distances observed
(Chapter 2.4.2) but also that the harness lugs are not held off the gussets by protruding weld beads.

31

Seat back attached to

seat base

Seat belt attachment

Figure 16.7

STEP 14
Each pair of shoulder straps is secured to a single fuselage anchor gusset behind the headrack using
AN4-6A bolts see Figure 16.8.

Figure 16.8

17 BATTERY INSTALLATION
If your engine has an electric starter, you will need to mount a battery in your fuselage. A wide range
of suitable batteries are available but bring with them weight problems as they are invariably heavy.
The positioning of the battery requires careful consideration, particularly with regard to the effect on
the weight and balance of the aircraft. Battery mounting hardware is not included in the kit, but there
are six tabs (2 sets of three) in the rear fuselage (see Figures 17.1 below) to enable fitting of a tray for
your battery to sit on. A flat tray is now included.
32

Rear set of tabs

Forward set of tabs

Figure 17.1

General guidance notes:

Construct a battery tray from 16GA aluminum sheet or fiberglass and make provision for the battery
to be securely held to the tray.
The tray must be securely fixed to the airframe and remain so even when subjected to severe flight
conditions. You may be required to submit design drawings and demonstrate compliance, to your
D.A.R. for inspection.
It is recommended that all electrical circuits are designed and wired in accordance with normal
aircraft practices.
Before installation, weigh the battery and hardware then do a weight and balance calculation for
inclusion in the final pre-first flight weight and balance statement.
18. ELT TRAY

An ELT Tray is included in the kit. This tray is fit to the rear set of tabs in the fuselage. This is where
we put it at the factory. We assemble it as shown in figure 18.1.

33

Figure 18.1
19. FIREWALL

STEP 1
Locate firewall material (F-1500) and clamp it to the front of the fuselage aligning the two sides and
the bottom to the outside edge of the tubing, you will need to make a couple of cut outs in the bottom
of the firewall to accommodate the nose gear attach brackets. Carefully mark and then drill four 3/16
holes where the engine mount bolts (AN4-30A) will pass through (i.e. one in each corner) use the
fuselage engine mount bushings as a guide. If not already done, the bottom and side edges of the
firewall can be bent to conform to the roundness of the tubing.
If you are to install the Jabiru or VW engine then you need to also mark and drill an additional hole at
the bottom center of the firewall (use the firewall bushing as a guide) for the Jabiru and VW engine
mount attachment.
For the nose gear version you will need to mark and drill two additional holes (just below the top
engine mount attachment holes) for the nose gear support frame attachment bolts.

34

Cowling shape

F-1500

3/16 holes
(AN4-30A)

Additional holes
for nose gear
support bracket

Figure 19.1

Additional
hole for
Jabiru 3/16 hole
(AN4-25A)

STEP 2
Remove the firewall from the fuselage frame. Temporarily position the Boot cowling (F-2600) and
make a template showing the inner curve of the cowling at the point where the firewall would be.
Transfer this shape to the firewall material, and trim firewall to this line the gap between the firewall
top and boot cowling will be filled using the F-1505.0 Rubber seal. The rubber should be positioned so
that it is forced to fold forward when the boot cowl is in place. See figure 19.2
At this time enlarge the motor mount holes you drilled to 5/16.
This will help the firewall to lay flat when the motor mount is assembled to the fuselage and tightened.

Figure 19.2

Other holes will be required dependent on the configuration etc these will be described with the
option and the holes can be made at installation time.
20 WINDSHIELD FRONT ANGLE BRACKETS
STEP 1
The front angle brackets F-2650 (and Lexan) are attached to the fuselage by 4 tabs on each of the
door frame down tubes. Open out the holes in the tabs to 1/8 to take AD44ABSLF 1/8 x large head
aluminum rivets.
Trim the front brackets, F-2650, to fit the windshield post between the head rack and the angle of the
door frame; the bottom 3 will fit over the boot cowling.
35

The wider side of the angle bracket goes to the outside and the bracket fits snugly onto the windshield
tubes. Slide F-2650 brackets over the windshield post and back drill 1/8 diameter holes through the
mounting tabs and brackets. See figures 20.1a and b. Clean and de-burr as required. The brackets can
now be primed with aluminum primer ready for painting.

Figure 20.1a

Figure 20.1b

On final assembly fit the angle brackets over the post and the Lexan will slide between the angle
bracket and the windshield post. Use large head AD44ABSLF 1/8 x aluminum rivets to secure the
Lexan windshield to the angle brackets, butt ribs and rear bracket. Figure 20.2.
You can alternatively fix the windshield using 1/8 bolts and nuts (not provided); this fitting method
would make replacement a bit easier.

Figure 20.2

21. INSTRUMENT PANEL

Before starting, take care and time assessing your requirements and planning the layout of your panel.
Bear in mind that instruments that generate magnetic fields must be kept away from compasses etc.
Obviously, the instruments you install will vary according to your engine installation and how you
decide to operate your aircraft, i.e. pure flying enjoyment, serious touring etc. The required or
recommended engine instruments will be outlined in the documentation received with your engine. It
is recommended that these primary flight instruments are 3 1/8 diameter items for clarity and
reliability. All other instruments can be 2items.
36

STEP 1
Assemble all the instruments, indicators and switches you intend to incorporate into your panel.
Using a paper facsimile of the panel set out the equipment to your own particular requirements, giving
proper attention to cockpit ergonomics: imagine yourself flying your airplane and scanning or
operating the systems. Also, make sure that there is sufficient space between instruments and switches
etc. to avoid any fouling. Also ensure that there is sufficient room behind the intended panel position.
STEP 2
Mark out the instrument panel F-2300 and make cut outs as necessary. You can use large diameter
hole cutters or trepanning cutters, chain drill inside the cut out lines then carefully remove the scrap and
finish to size with fine files and abrasive paper useful files for finishing can be made by attaching
abrasive paper to large dowels, strip wood etc. with contact adhesive.
Step 3
Make a trial installation of the panel in the airframe. Some trimming will be required for the throttle
plate and side tubes. The panel sits with the inside bottom of the panel pushed up until it touches the
throttle support. It is secured by 2 brackets (F-2300) screwed (F-2310) to the top of the panel and
attached to the front fuselage tubes by Adel clamps (F-2310.0) and by Adel clamps on to the panel
support tube (see figure 20.1a/b/c)

Figure 20.1A (top bracket)

Figure 20.1b

Figure 20.1c

37

STEP 4
Install the instruments, indicators and switches into the panel and connect up as much as possible.
There will always be some that can only have final connections made when the panel is installed.

STEP 5
Set panel aside for final installation that will take place after covering and finishing of fuselage.

22. HEADER TANK

*Note: Your header tank may have changed, but the installation principle is still the same.
STEP 1 (See figure 22.1)
The header tank is an aluminum tube with ends welded shut and one welded boss. (See Picture) The
tank should have two 1/8 npt threaded holes on the top; this is the inlet from each tank. (These holes
must be drilled and tapped). The bottom of the tank is tapped 1/8 npt for a hose nipple, this hose will be
routed to the Curtis drain valve assembly. The boss on the tank is also drilled and tapped 1/8 npt, and is
the outlet to the engine. The tabs on the tank are drilled 3/16 and Adel clamps mount the tank to the
fuselage frame.
Step 2
The drain outlet from the tank is connected by a short length of fuel tubing, F-3433.0 (held in place
with F-3150.2 hose clamps) to a male hose barb (F-3200.0) this is screwed into a coupling (F-3442.0).
The Curtis drain valve F-3180, will screw into the other end of the coupling. The assembly is attached
to the fuselage using the plate welded into the bottom of the fuselage (cross member 8). The Curtis
valve is inserted from the bottom up into the coupling, which sits on the top side of the plate. The
valve will exit through the bottom fabric close to the fuselage side tubing.
STEP 3
The fuel header tank is attached to the first frame support behind the passenger seat and is held in
place by MS21919-WD7 Adel clamps.

Figure 22.1

38

23.

RUDDER CABLE GUIDES

STEP 1
For the small bushings fitting the rudder cable guide tubing is as follows. Cut 18 pieces of the tubing
about 2 long with a long taper at one end. Pull through the bushings with pliers and trim flush with
both sides of bushing. Figure 23.1

FIGURE 23.1

STEP 2
For the large bushings use cable fair leads provided.

39