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Final Assembly

Now that you have your covered surfaces painted its time for final assembly. Everything you had to
take off to paint can now be put back on i.e. floor boards controls and such. At the factory the first
thing we do is get the plane back on its gear, and then the tail feathers go back on. Be sure to grease the
bolts when you put them in for the last time. Think as you go so you only have to put it together once,
i.e. floors have to be in before the fabric, and all wiring and fuel systems that go under floors, before
the floors.
1. INTERIOR
The interior can be as plain or as fancy as you want. Here we will discuss how we put in our deluxe
interior kit.
Step 1
Open the interior kit box as early as you can so you can unroll the fabric and get it laying flat.
The baggage area is done first. There is no wrong way to put the glue on whether you start at the top or
bottom is your choice. Spray both the fuselage and the back side of the fabric. The piece for this area
has a seam in it that goes along the top edge. Trimming is required around tubing and rudder cable
guides and along the bottom. Plan the front edge carefully so the front piece lays in nicely. See figure
1.1

Figure 1.1

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Step 2
Once both rear pieces are in, complete the front pieces. The front pieces have the door opening
already trimmed in so complete that area first and work to smooth it out from there, cutting around the
tubing and rudder guides as in the rear piece. See figure 1.2

figure1.2

2. RUDDER CABLE INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Clamp the rudder pedals in a neutral position so that the foot tube is about 6 from the firewall.
Fitting the rudder cable guide tubing is as follows. Cut 18 pieces of the tubing about 2 long with a
long taper at one end. Pull through the bushings with pliers and trim flush with both sides of bushing.

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STEP 2
Pull rudder cable through all the bushings (leave plenty at each end for final fitting) and cut
accordingly.
Starting with Serial#194 the fuselage has cable fair leads in the front and rear locations. These fair
leads are the same as the ones behind the seats for flap & Ailerons. Use Part# F3030.0 for guides.
STEP 3
At the rudder end, fit a 2 length of heat shrink tubing over the cable then fit an F-0840.0 Nicopress
sleeve. Feed the end of the cable back through the Nicopress sleeve and tighten the loop around a
thimble. Ensuring that the thimble is held securely in position, swage the Nicopress sleeve with an
approved tool. Trim the surplus cable approx 1/2 from the sleeve. Put the heat shrink over the cut
end, up to the Nicopress sleeve, and then shrink sleeve it into place.
STEP 4
The rudder cable is attached to the rudder horn using a shackle which is attached to the rudder horn
with an AN3-5 bolt flat washer and castle nut. Refer to figure 2.1 Rudder Cable Attachment below.

Figure 2.1
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STEP 5
Bushings (F-0845.0) are provided for the attachment of the toe brakes to the rudder pedals. All 4
bushings have a tab on them. The 2 outer pedals positions have the tab on the outside of the rudder
pedals and the inner pedals have them toward the middle. The outer tabs attach to the turnbuckle. The
inner ones are to stop the feet from slipping sideways off the pedal. The bushings are inserted into the
top tube of the rudder pedals and held in place with the small bushing stops (F-0845.1) provided.
Secure each bushing with CCP44 1/8 x Stainless Rivets. The inner bushings (with tab) have a
further CCP44 rivet (that fixes the bushing to the rudder foot tube) to hold them in the correct position
i.e. so that the tab actually stops the feet from slipping sideways. See Figure 2.2

Figure 2.2

STEP 6
Attach MS21252-3RS turnbuckle (fork-end) to rudder pedal with AN3-5 bolt. See Figure2.3

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Figure2.3

STEP 7
With the pedals still clamped, place the cable under light tension and secure the cable to the
turnbuckle and then Nicopress (F-0840) in the same way as in Step 3. The turnbuckle should be
tightened initially to the neutral position, i.e. about half way into the turnbuckle. Turnbuckles to be in
safely should not show any thread. They are also secured after final assemble and adjustment with the
supplied safety wire.

3. RUDDER CABLE RIGGING

STEP 1

Visually check that the cable systems have been correctly fitted and are symmetrical. Operate the
control, ensuring that full and free movement is achieved. Adjust as necessary to ensure that the
rudder is in the neutral position with pedals even, then safety wire the turn buckles.

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4. BRAKES
Step 1
Mount the brake cylinders next. The larger of the two pairs have the reservoir on them. We put them
on the left side and the other two on the right side. See figure 4.1.A

Figure 4.1.A
Step 2
Bolt the hydraulic main wheel assembly cylinder mount brackets to the toe brakes using AN3-4A
bolts with AN365-1032A nuts. Do not tighten the nuts all the way. The assembly should move freely.
Line up the shaft out of the brake cylinders and drill 5/16 holes in the mount bracket. Remove the
clevis that comes on the cylinder and discard. Bolt the cylinders onto the brackets with the AN316-5R
nuts provided. See figure 4.1.B

Figure 4.1.B

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Step 3
Make up the brake lines so that the line coming from the far left cylinder on the bottom goes to the
top of the third cylinder in line. The bottom line from this cylinder goes to the left brake assembly at
the wheel. We route this line under all the tubing back to where we want it to come out of the fuselage
and burn a hole there with a soldering iron. Match the alignment of this hole with a corresponding hole
in the inside of the landing leg. See figure 4.2

Figure 4.2
Step 4
Put another hole in the bottom of the leg for the brake line to come out of. Note some of the landing
gear has a plate in the bottom so make sure you put the hole above them. See figure 4.3

Figure 4.3
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5. Firewall

Put the firewall back on now in preparation for mounting your engine.
6 Mount your engine
It is now time to mount your engine. Depending on your engine choice you can either purchase your
mount from the factory or make your own. We will not address particular engine installations in this
manual. Refer to your engine installation manual that comes with your engine.
7

Put Wings Back On

Now that the engine is on, the weight is enough to put the wings back on without worry of the plane
tipping over while just one wing is on.
Step 1
Turn wings upside down on sawhorses and prep for installation by reaming all the flap and aileron
hinge brackets. Also ream the lift strut attach brackets, the mounting holes in the spars, and clean out
the pulley positions.

Step 2
Assemble the bottom pulleys at this time and pull the cables out, (just let them hang for now).
Step 3
Turn the wing over and cut out the gas cap hole and the top aileron cable, again just let it hang out for
now.
Step 4
You have had the wings on and off several times during the build stage so get your hardware out and
this time grease the bolts when you put them on because they never have to come out again. The only
difference now is the pitot line, when putting the wing up to the fuselage the line goes in front of the
wing mounting position. ***NOTE*** BE CAREFULL WITH THE LEFT WING AND DO NOT
DAMAGE THE PITOT TUBE WITH THE LIFT STRUT.
Step 5
Once you have both wings back on and the hardware properly secured with the cotter pins ensure that
the front tube doesn't hit the Butt rib when swinging back and forth, if it does use a sanding drum and
remove material from the Butt rib until it clears with about an 1/8 clearance all around.

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8. Jury Struts
Put the Jury Struts back on now. Secure the hardware and youre finished. It does not matter if the
front of the Jury Struts look straight behind the rear of the strut. The purpose of the strut is to hold the
lift strut straight. Look down the Lift Strut from the top and adjust the Jury Strut wing clamp up or
down until the Lift strut is straight. Tighten it there.

9. TURTLE DECK
The turtle deck F- 2260 fits between the rear windshield bracket (on the head rack) and the next cross
tubes over the baggage area. See Figure 9.1

Figure 9.1

STEP 1
The leading edge sides of the turtle deck need to be trimmed so that the control cables etc can pass
through without snagging Figure 9.1 gives a good idea of how the sides should be trimmed. Remove
small pieces as a time until you get good clearance.
Trim out a half-moon radius at the front to clear the head rack tube leaving 1/8 clearance. Cut out a
relief area for clearance of the flap and cross over cables. It is better to do this when the aileron cable
etc are fitted as the line of the slot is not parallel to the turtle deck line.
STEP 2
The turtle deck is secured to the fuselage by screws, which are located two on either side and three
along the rear edge of the turtle deck.
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The 7 tabs should have the F-2270 nut plates attached with AN426A-3-4.1 soft rivets. The turtle deck
is then drilled to allow the screws (AN526-832 R-6) to fit into the nut plates.
Camlock style fasteners can be substituted to facilitate easier turtle deck removal.
10. Install Panel and Wire
The Instrument Panel is supplied to you as uncut. It is bent to fit the fuselage but final fitting is up to
the owner and instrumentation. These are but just a few.

We will not get into wiring of panels in this manual. It is up to the owner how this is done and up to the
individual components schematics.
11. Cowlings
The cowlings
Boot F- 2600
Boot cowl is fixed to the fuselage with 4 AD44ABSLF 1/8 x large head aluminum rivets.
Boot to windscreen with 11 AD44ABSLF 1/8 x large head aluminum rivets.
Top fixed to both boot and bottom cowlings (You need to make an opening for oil checking)
Top F- 2610
Bottom F-2620
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The Cowlings should be fitted after the engine has been installed (even temporarily) as its positioning
and cut-outs are relative to the engine.
STEP 1
Trim top cowling to molded-in line. If necessary, enhance the clarity of the line with a fine tip
permanent marker or masking tape, see Figure11.1.

Figure 11.1

STEP 2
Assemble top and bottom cowlings together and securely clamp. Drill 1/8 holes at the rear and
forward edges and Cleco them together, see Figure 11.2.

Figure 11.2

STEP 3
Slide the cowling over the nose of the fuselage.
STEP 4
Clamp a straight edge horizontally across the engine propeller flange. Align the cowling
symmetrically with the propeller flange, ensuring adequate fore and aft clearance for the propeller, see
Figure 11.3.
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Figure 11.3
STEP 5
Recheck that the cowlings are straight and symmetrical then drill 1/8 holes through the fuselage
mounting tabs. Secure with Clecos.
STEP 6
Locate and mark the cowling for the cooling duct assembly required for your engine.
STEP 7
Remove the cowling. Cut out the holes marked at Steps 5-6.
STEP 8
The eight fuselage-cowling tabs need to have nut plates F-2630.0 fitted. Center them to the Cleco holes
drilled earlier. The nut plates are held in place by AN426A-3-4 soft rivets.

STEP 9
The two halves of the cowling are joined together using F-2630.0 nut plates on the bottom cowling
with AN526-832R6 screws through the top cowling into the nut plates. The nut plates should have a
nominal 5 spacing.
All the nut plates and screws may be replaced with cam-lock type fasteners.

12. WINDSHIELD FITTING


STEP 1
Cut windshield from the Lexan sheet supplied in your kit F-2220. A rough template is provided in
order to cut the sheet down to a more manageable size; please note this is not an exact size as the final
cut will be determined by the positioning of the butt ribs (W-0280.0/W-0280.1) and the boot cowling
section.
Do not undercut, cut to the outside of the pattern. For protection from scratching, leave the
covering paper on the Lexan until all fabrication operations have been completed.
Fit the Lexan to the rear windshield angle bracket and the butt ribs first.
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STEP 2
With both wings extended and butts ribs in position carefully lay the cut Lexan windshield and
canopy cover in position. Align the Lexan sheet so the rear edge of the sheet lies parallel to the rear
edge of the rear windshield bracket (attached to the head rack), allow at least1/8 overlap and secure
with clamps.
Note-You will have to make relief cuts to allow access to the rear wing attachment bolt otherwise
you will have to remove the windscreen to remove the wings. See figures 12.1a and b.

Figure 12.1a

Figure 12.1b

STEP 3
Position both butt ribs so they fit snugly against the end wing rib. From the top of the Lexan sheet
mark the line of the outer edge of the butt rib with masking tape - You will need to remove some of the
protective plastic cover to allow for visual sighting).
Remove Lexan sheet and cut to size sand and smooth all edges.
STEP 4
In the rear windshield angle bracket drill 6 x 1/8 holes on the center line, positioned 1 in from each
end and then equally spaced between the 2 outer 1 holes, then in each butt rib, drill 9 x 1/8 holes the
first 1 from the front of the butt rib and then every 3.

STEP 5
Return the sheet to the top of the cockpit area and clamp into place. Using the holes drilled in step 4
to carefully mark and then drill the Lexan, hold in position with Clecos.
STEP 6
Fold the Lexan forward and down to form the windshield and tuck it under the cowling (just fit the
boot section) when finally trimmed the Lexan extends about 2 to 3 below the level of the boot cowl.
Push the Lexan up tight to the cowling for a snug fit. Drill 1/8 holes and Cleco the Lexan to the 4 tabs
running vertically on each windshield post. Mark a half circle around the front spar leaving enough
space to easily remove or install the wing spar to head rack locking pin. See figure 12.2
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Figure 12.2

STEP 7
The Lexan is then trimmed to follow the line of the rear of the down tubes.
*NOTE*
The Lexan once trimmed should have all edges sanded and smoothed.
Only use water based markers on the Lexan otherwise they become permanent.
STEP 8
Return Lexan sheet to its original position and clamp securely; ensure that the left and right brackets
fit snugly with the Lexan sitting between the tabs and the brackets
STEP 9 - FINAL ASSEMBLY
Please note, before final assembly the two angle brackets and the rear head rack bracket must have
their final paint cover. Also when riveting to the butt ribs or fibreglass cowlings use rivet washers to
spread the load.
Return Lexan to its original position; clamp securely. Ensure there are no sharp edges and the top
cowling is in position.
Working from the rear head rack bracket fix Lexan with large head rivets.
STEP 10
Fold the Lexan onto the securing tabs and position the angle bracket around the upright tubing and on
the outside of the Lexan. Fix with large head rivets.
STEP 11
Ensure a tight fit around the windshield and cowling as well as a secure and tight fit to the butt ribs.

13. INSTALLATION OF DOORS AND WINDOWS


STEP 1
Cut the larger piano hinge F-2810.1 to fit under the square tubing on the fuselage.
Drill and deburr 14 to 15 holes on each side of the hinge at 2 intervals opposite the hinge joints.
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Clamp the hinge to the fuselage and drill and cleco all the holes to the fuselage from one end to the
other. Remove the hinge and deburr the holes.
Repeat the above with the hinge on the door.
Repeat the above process for the window to door assembly using the smaller hinge F-2810.2
Now rivet the door hinge to the fuselage with 012634-9 1/8 x aluminium sealed rivets, then
completely rivet the rest of the door & window frames.
14.

INSTALLATION OF LEXAN

STEP 1
Remove doors and windows, by removing hinge pin. Place on the lexan sheet F-2890. Carefully
trace the outline of the bottom section of the doorframe onto the lexan sheet. Using the trace line as a
guide draw a second line extending the line a further 2 inches, the top will be cut level with the outside
edges of the tubes. Next trace the window in the same manner.

STEP 2
Using a jigsaw on low speed or a sheer carefully cut the lexan to shape. Work slowly removing small
amounts of material at a time.
STEP 3
Find the center line of the door tubing where the Lexan will fit, mark, punch and drill holes using
1/8 drill, clean and de-burr. Holes should be uniformly spaced approximately 4 inches apart.
STEP 4
Once all the holes are drilled and deburred, cleco the lexan onto the frames, put the window back onto
the door using the hinge pin, then put the door back on the fuselage.
STEP 5
When you are satisfied with the fit and finish of the panels rivet the panels onto the tubing using the
large head 1/8 x aluminum rivets. You can use a fine grain sand paper on a sanding block to achieve
rounded and smooth edges. Retain as much of the protective plastic covering as you can until final
assembly.
STEP 6
Repeat the whole process for the other door and window.
. STEP 7
Window and door Latch F-2870 is fitted to the bushings on the bottom center of the window and door
frame(s). The Lexan will need to be drilled to allow access to the bushing. The inside handle is inserted
into the bushing and the outside handle attached to the other end. The inside handle is designed to lock
against the middle tube. The 2 handles are secured together using F-2870.2 roll pin you will need to
drill the hole for this pin through both the handles when adjusted to give best locking action.
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15. GLARE SHIELD


After final installation of the instrument panel has taken place, and the windshield is in place and
fastened down you are ready to make your Glare shield (F2300.3). There is included in your kit a 1 X
3 piece of very thin aluminum sheet (020). This is for the Glare shield.
Step 1
First take a piece of cardboard and cut it to the fit between the windshield and the panel leaving a
nice overhang (3/4 to 1) over the top of the panel. When you get the fit you want and are satisfied with
the cardboard fit trace this outline onto the aluminum sheet and cut it out. There is no ledge for the
glare shield side to lay on, it just hangs out there. See figure 15.1

Figure 15.1

Figure 15.2

Step 2
When you are satisfied with the overall fit, you can paint or cover the shield with your choice of
coverings. It looks nice to leave an inch or two of loose covering on the windshield side. See figure
15.2
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16.

DOOR GAS STRUT INSTALLATION

Figure 16.1
Step 1
Install F-2810.1 Door cylinder brackets to fuselage with 4 each MS21919 WDG 4 Adel clamps and
4 each AN 3-4A bolts each with an AN960-10 washer and an AN365-1032 nut. These brackets are over
sized and need to be trimmed to fit each side. See figure 16.2

Figure 16.2
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Step 2
Clamp with a small hose clamp the F-3441.0 gas strut bracket to the rear tube of the door. Use the
gas strut as a guide to help figure out where the best location is to mount this. The door is to be almost
touching the wing when open. Care must be taken not to get this too low on the door or the gas strut
wont close all the way. Once satisfied with the door location mark the fuselage location and mount the
gas strut to the door cylinder bracket on the fuselage.

Figure 16.3

Step 3
Re-check to make sure the door will close with the gas strut installed. Drill and rivet the gas strut
bracket o the door with 4 each CCP 42 Rivets.
*Note* the nut on the door should just clear the fuselage when it goes by. See figure 16.3

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