My Adventures in Brewing - Malting Barley at Home Maltare Barley Malting

27/11/2014
MyAdventuresInBrewing:MaltingBarleyAtHome
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My Adventures In Brewing
Exhaustive descriptions of my homebrewing experiences and all my personal thoughts on brewing.
MO NDAY , J UNE 22, 2009
Malting Barley At Home

Some homebrewers call themselves "hopheads" because of their
absolute love of hops' flavor, aroma, and bitterness. They search far
and wide for the freshest hops and pour ounce after ounce into their
beers, constantly pushing the IBU envelope, and dryhopping every
brew. I've even seen brewers who've used 6 or 8 different types of hops
in one beer! It may sound kind of crazy, but if you love hops, why not?
I can definitely identify with "hopheads" I love the aroma and flavor
of hops, and I love the unique taste each hop variety can bring to
homebrew whether it's spicy, floral, or otherwise. But the bottom
line is that personally, I am much more in love with the flavor of
malted barley. Call me a "malthead" or whatever other moniker you
can invent I simply love the smell, the sweetness, the flavor, and the
hundreds of ways barley can be roasted, toasted, caramelized, and
smoked. I've always wondered what it would take to malt my own
barley and so for the last couple months I have been searching the
internet for information on home malting. It seems that there are not
a huge amount of people out there malting their own barley, but I was
able to get some general information to get started.
The basic process of malting begins with moistening the barley seeds so
they start to germinate (sprout). The germination process causes the
starchy insides of the seed to be converted into sugar the stuff beer's
made out of! These sugars are designed to feed the baby plant until it
can find its own nutrient source. After the seeds have sprouted to a
certain point and contain as much sugar as possible, you dry them out
to stop the process. Then you "kiln" them to complete the drying
process and to give them some flavor, and you can even roast them for
more color and flavor.
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Malting Barley At Home
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To make crystal malt, you have to mash the green (freshly sprouted)
barley, and then cook it at a high temperature to crystalize the sugars.
The fact that crystal malt has already been mashed is why extract and
partial mash brewers are able to simply steep these grains for a short
time in hot water instead of putting them through an entire mashing
process it's already been done!
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So I decided that I wanted to keep the process as simple as possible

and attempt to produce a basic pale malt, and a small amount of
crystal malt to add body and flavor.
On tap: Belgian Dubbel
Next I searched for a good online source of barley seed. I have read
that you can usually acquire barley seed at any local feed store for
very cheap, but I didn't know of any feed stores in my town, and I was
also concerned that a feed store would sell me a product more
designed for animal use and not for malting. Finally I found
http://www.amazon.com/OrganicBarley25Ornamental
Barleygrass/dp/B000E7MU2K. This company will ship you a 25 pound
Primary (5gallon): "Graff" Cider
http://myadventuresinbrewing.blogspot.it/2009/06/maltingbarleyathome.html
Posts
Comments
My "Brew Queue":
Secondary: Empty
Primary (1gallon): "Liquid Sunshine"

Pilsner
Next to brew: Jonny's "Backyard"
BourbonOaked Ale?
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bag of premium unhulled barley seed that has been produced

completely organically. The fact that it was organic just made me
more excited, since I entered into this whole undertaking to eliminate
factory processing and to produce the ultimate fresh malt in a hands
on way. So the absence of chemical pesticides on the grain just felt
even more natural and earthy. The barley was pretty inexpensive, but
due to the weight the shipping was almost as much as the actual grain,
and it took about a week to arrive at my home in Florida. I devised the
following plan: I would break the malting up into two larger batches
(designed to make the usual 5 gallons), and one small batch
(approximately 2 gallons). The first large batch would consist of a pale
malt and a small amount of crystal malt to make a hoppy American
Pale Ale, the second large batch would be more roasted with a larger
amount of crystal malt to make a toasted lager, and the leftover small
batch I would smoke in my buddy Erin's smoker! (yet another thing I've
always wanted to try).
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Dark Cherry Stout, Chamomile
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JackTherIPA
AllGrain,IndiaPaleAle
Anotherone
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Chocolate "nibs"
Common offflavors in homebrew
and their causes
Dry hopping techniques
High Gravity
Next I got a cheap digital scale from Walmart. I've always wanted one
for making precise hop measurements, and now I had the perfect
excuse, as I would need to separate the grain into portions (it would
be impossible to malt the whole 25 pounds at once). So I weighed out
10.5 pounds of grain and dumped it into my 4 gallon brewpot. The first
thing you have to do is clean the grain by filling the pot with water
and running your hands through the grain. All the dead seeds, pieces of
plant material, and other useless crap floats to the top and can easily
be skimmed off and removed. The water turned slightly brown so I
poured it off, then filled the pot up with fresh water to begin the
soaking process.
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Fill with mingled cream and amber,
I will drain that glass again.
Such hilarious visions clamber
Through the chamber of my brain
Quaintest thoughts queerest
fancies
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Come to life and fade away;

What care I how time advances?
I am drinking ale today.
Edgar Allen Poe
Here,
With my beer
I sit,
While golden moments flit:
Alas!
They pass
Unheeded by:
And, as they fly,
I,
Being dry,
Sit, idly sipping here
My beer.
O, finer far
Than fame, or riches, are
The graceful smokewreathes of this
cigar!
Why
Should I
Weep, wail, or sigh?
What if luck has passed me by?
What if my hopes are dead,
My pleasures fled?
Have I not still
My fill
Of right good cheer,
Cigars and beer
Go, whining youth,
Forsooth!
Go, weep and wail,
Sigh and grow pale,
Weave melancholy rhymes
On the old times,
Whose joys like shadowy ghosts
appear,
But leave me to my beer!
Gold is dross,
Love is loss,
So, if I gulp my sorrows down,
Or see them drown
In foamy draughts of old nutbrown,
Then do wear the crown,
Without the cross!
George Arnold
A statesman is an easy man, he tells

his lies by rote.
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A journalist invents his lies, and

rams them down your throat.
So stay at home and drink your beer
and let the neighbors vote.
William Butler Yeats
I have read many different opinions about soaking the grains, but most
call for some time under water, then some time with the water
removed, until the grain begins to sprout. I basically did what I could
around my busy work schedule, but it turned out to be approximately
68 hours wet followed by 68 hours dry and so on. I stirred the grains
whenever I could, and within about 24 to 48 hours they started to
"chit", which is when the first tiny root begins to protrude from the
seed.
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At this point I gave the barley one final rinse and then dumped it into
three trays. Actually, two trays and one large wooden salad bowl (I
have to work with what I've got). I covered the grains with loose plastic
wrap, so that dust and bacteria would hopefully not fall into the grain
from gravity (you can also use tinfoil). Many people use large clay
pots for this stage, since they are porous and can absorb any extra
water, but, once again, I just used what I had available.
During this stage of germination it is very important to stir the grains

at least a couple times a day, as they actually produce heat during the
process. This warm, moist environment is a perfect place for mold to
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grow, and if that happens you pretty much have to throw everything
out and start again. I read online that the inside of a germinating pile
of barley can exceed 104 degrees! (About the temperature of a
jacuzzi) All I can tell you is that when I stirred up my grains, I scooped
barley into my hand and could definitely feel a noticeable warm
sensation! So just stir them as often as you can, and if your grain
starts to smell like it's rotting, it probably is.
The germination of barley should take anywhere from 35 days. If you
work fulltime, like me, starting the process early in the week (like
Monday night) will allow you to perform all your drying and kilning on
the weekend, when there's more free time. This is important, since I
would not reccomend leaving the oven unattended while at work.
You want to dry the barley and stop it from growing when the leave
shoot (acrospire) is 75% to 100% the length of the kernel. But when the
acrospire begins to grow, at first it grows inside the kernel! So the only
way to find out it's length is to break open a few seeds and gently pull
out the shoot. Another good indication is if the roots have developed
up to 2 or 3 times the length of the seed at this point the acrospire is
usually at least 75% in length. Also, I noticed that once in a while you
will find a kernel that has burst open and the acrospire is actually
shooting out the side. It is very rare, like some kind of mutant or
something, but it does allow you to easily see the length of the
acrospire without breaking open any seeds. You can eat a few seeds at
this point they should have a sweet flavor this means the starches
have begun their conversion and it's time to dry the barley and lock in
all that flavor!
But first, I needed to make my crystal malt. Basically, this involves
mashing a portion of the sprouted barley (green barley), and then
cooking it at a high temperature to dry it and caramelize the sugars.
First, I weighed out the amount of barley to be mashed. Remember
that at this point the weight of your barley is 40 50% water, so you
need to use practically double the weight that you eventually want to
end up with, because after drying you will lose all that water weight.
Next, I put the barley into 4 small ziplock bags, sucked out as much air
as possible, and sealed. I then heated up a couple gallons of water to
160 degrees and filled up my small mash tun, placing the bags of
barley inside. No matter how hard you try to suck out the air, they will
still float, so you have to place some kind of weight on top. I used a
small sauce pan with my heavy glass sugarbowl top inside for weight.
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When I closed the top the cooler lid sort of pushed the pan down (my
mash tuns are made out of round Rubbermaid coolers), so I think my
grains were pretty much underwater. After the 160 degree water hits
your cool mash tun, and then after adding the grain bags, you should
end up with a temperature somewhere in the low 150's perfect! Now
simply wait 12 hours the same as mashing grain to make wort,
except the grains never actually touch the water, so the sugars stay
locked inside.
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After that I removed the bags and dumped out the grains into my small
roasting tray. I set my oven at 400 degrees and placed the tray inside
(about halfway up). It takes a couple of hours, and you will obviously
need to stir the grains every so often so they receive even heat. After
a while you may hear some crackling sounds this is normal, don't
freak out! The caramelization has begun! At this point, monitor the
grain closely and cook it as long and dark as you desire. If you want to
create a "Carapils" style dextrin malt, simply dry the grains but don't
darken them (this will add body to beer but not as much color or
flavor). I kept mine in the oven as long as possible, and at a certain
point the edges of the grain looked like they were getting burnt, so I
removed them.
After that, I set the temperature at the lowest possible 170 on my
oven, dumped the rest of my grain into the two large roasting pans,
and put them inside. I propped open the door slightly with a large
plastic spoon. This keeps the temperature down (170 is actually a bit
warm) and allows the air to circulate, aiding in the drying process.
Once again, you must stir the grains as much as possible so they dry
evenly. This takes 2448 hours. My oven automatically shut down after
12 hours, and I had to reset the temp to continue.
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When the grain is almost completely dry (chew some it should be

crunchy on the outside and slightly softer inside) it is time to "kiln". I
set my oven at 250 degrees and kilned for about 2 1/2 3 hours. Stir
often and, by God, enjoy that amazing smell that will now saturate
your entire house!
The next step is to take the grain out of the oven, let it cool, and then
remove the dried roots, which will now have turned brown and curled
up. I accomplished this by taking small portions of grain and putting
them into a wiremesh strainer, and then circulating them with my
hand at moderate pressure. Most of the dried roots fall off and pass
through the strainer and the grains remain.
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According to some of the internet posts I have read, it is best to then

let the grain sit for a week or two before using it to make beer. I don't
know why you need to do this, but for me it just simply worked out
best since I wasn't ready to brew when my grains had finished the
malting process. I left the grains in one of the roasting trays and
covered them with tinfoil. I poured my crystal malt on top and it was
definitely cool to see the contrast in color between the crystal and the
pale malts.
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That's it!!! I will blog again on my first "homemalted" brew day!

P.S. I tried to take more close up pics of the grain chits and roots,
but they kept coming out blurry on my camera. However I did manage
to find a website with really nice germination closeups posted by a
dude who malts his own barley in the Phillipines. Check it out at
http://beerme.wordpress.com/2007/04/09/challengeiicomplete
maltedbarleyathome/
7/29/09: Just wanted to post a quick note after this entry. In case you
haven't had a chance to read about all my brewing experiments with
homemade malt, I was unable to get my efficiency higher than 35%
(!!!) using the "homemalted" barley (very, very poor). I even tried
germinating my seeds longer until the acrospires had all achieved
about 100% seed length, and also milling the grains very thoroughly,
but still had very low efficiency. I believe the only factor left to
change would be the temperature at which I dried the grains. My oven
will not go below 170 degrees F, and all the literature I read online
called for around 50 degrees C (or 122 F). As you can see above, I left
the door of the oven open and tried to circulate the grains often, but I
am thinking that maybe the heat was still too much and managed to
damage the potential of the barley in some way. To remedy this, the
only option that I personally would have available would be to dry the
grain in the sun. I live in south Florida, so this would work great in the
wintertime, but right now in the summer it rains every day and I
wouldn't be able to leave anything outside for long. So I can try the
sundrying technique this winter and report back afterwards. Also, I
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could try a different barley source. I thought I had the coolest barley
around, but who knows? I would be interested to see if a different
source may be better suited for malting. Good luck to anyone out
there trying this, please post a comment if you have anything to add.
Thanks.
8/16/09 I almost forgot, here is another method I tried using a
rigged up fan to circulate the heat and try not to damage the grains.
The fan blows air into the oven, and then it escapes through the side
of a towel I put over the opening. Results were questionable:
Posted by Jon at 6:15 PM

Labels: barley, crystal, malt, malting
25 comments:
Anonymous July 28, 2009 at 3:09 PM
Awesome info. I've been trawling the net 6 months and have learnt
only a fraction of what you've described here, but what you've written
is really going to help me get up to speed now I have my 56kilo of
animal feed barley.
Carl
Reply

A note regarding your oven temperature. If you leave the oven open,
the oven will work harder to maintain the temperature and you may
actually find it's hotter than you really want it. That's what's
happening to me right now. I have a thermometer in the oven so that
I can keep a constant check. My starts at about 120. You could try
drying them in the sun.
Carl
Reply
Jonny Windt July 30, 2009 at 2:10 PM

Carl, thank you so much for your comments. What you said about the
oven temperature makes perfect sense. I really need to get an oven
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thermometer and monitor the temp more closely. It sounds like a lot
of time to spend, though! I think the sundried idea would definitely
be the least labor intensive and safest for the grain. In a few months
I'll try again.
Reply

Just so you know, I followed your crystal malt method and got great
results. Drying the grain is an issue, mine spent almost the whole day
in the oven and after about ten hours I decided I'd try to put it under
our fireplace which is raised off the ground. The temps flucutated
between 120 and 140 so I found that if it got too hot I could just
move it to a cooler part. Seemed to work well.
I'm in the southern hemisphere in Uruguay so it's winter here. So I
can't utilize the sun though I know it will be perfect in the summer
outside. What we do have though is an under roof permanent BBQ so I
think next time I might try that. Will need to check on temps first
though.
I'm on my first ever batch of raw barley to beer. I've malted corn
before because it was all I could get and the results were very
mediocre. But right now I am smelling proper malt and it's reminding
me of a malt drink we have in the UK called horlicks, not sure if it's
available in the US.
Seeing your efforst gave me confidence to know I wasn't alone in
trying from raw grain.
Carl
Reply
Jonny Windt July 31, 2009 at 2:31 PM

Carl, I'm so glad to hear you were successful with the crystal malt, I
hope your base malt comes out good too. You know, when I dried my
grain into pale malt it took over 24 hours. My oven automatically shut
off after 12 hours, and I had to turn it back on again for 12 more
before my grains were dry enough to be crunchy when I bit into them.
Anyway, please let me know how your first brew turns out I am
really curious to see if it worked for you.
Reply
Anonymous August 3, 2009 at 9:30 PM

Well, today, I racked off my first brew, I made a tiny amount. I only
ended up with a litre although I actually intended two litres from a
litre of grain, but I guess I lost a lot of liquid in the mash then in the
boil. It's early days for me as a home brewer. But I have to say that
the colour so far is beautiful, a warm red and the flavour is a bitter
caramel with a creamy body, just like some English bitters I use to
drink regularly. I have no hops so I am making it as it is and I have to
say, the sips I took of the brew suggest it may well turn out well
without the hops.
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Going to give my litre 3 weeks before tasting again. In the meantime I

feel confident enough to start another slightly larger batch.
Carl
Reply
Jonny Windt August 4, 2009 at 4:17 PM

Nice! Sounds very promising! You know, if you can't get any hops in
your area, I've read a lot about other substitutes you can use instead.
There is a tree indiginous to tropical South America called "quassia"
the bark or wood flakes have medicinal as well as bittering properties
you might be able to purchase some in your area. Also, there are
two other types of viny plants called "calumba" and "colocynth" that
supposedly work well for bittering, but they grow mostly in East Africa
and the Mediteranean Basin, respectively. Lastly, I've heard you can
use the leafy green parts of dandelions or heather plants. If you can
find any of the above items, just try adding a small amount to your
boil and see how it works. Good luck, can't wait to here the next
report.
Jon
Reply

I racked off my fermented beer last night. I only have a small amount.
In fact just a litre, my boil took away a lot and as it settled I was left
with about a third of unusable 'trub' at the bottom of the
fermentation vessel.
But I am pleased with what I obtained, nice warm reddish colour like
a good English bitter. I tasted it and despite the lack of hops it was
really nice, a bitter sweet toasted caramel like English bitter flavour,
almost creamy with body, but obviously no gas.
I was initially skeptical that I could produce anything worth drinking,
but obviously barley is the king of grains.
I'm expecting the beer to improve. I'm going to give one bottle one
week and the other half litre 3 weeks. I'm already started on my next
batch. We have warmer weather coming so may try to dry the grain in
the sun in my studio window. I have limited containers and space so I
may also just malt small batches of grain until I have a reasonable
amount of dried malt and do a bigger batch of beer.
Just need to get some hops to see what it does to the flavour and I'd
also like to make darker beers too. So will have to experiment with
other malts and toasting the grain.
Cheers, Carl
Reply

Hi Jon, just noticed that my previous message came through. I didn't
think I'd posted it properly so sent another, sorry, please just delete
these. Thanks for the replies, you're blog has been a great help. Will
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keep you up to date, especially on the official testing.

Cheers, Carl
ps, dandelion is on my list to try, we're out of season right now though
Reply

all posts go to my email first to be monitored. i do this because i had
a few weird responses before and i want to read the posts before i
publish them. by the way, you can also feel free to email me directly
at duuude@bellsouth.net
speaking of darker beers, last night i finally had the first taste of my
"Homemalted Amber Ale". it is a little early, but wow, it tastes great.
after kilning the grains a little longer for that batch i can detect lots
of chocolate and toffee flavors!
good luck and talk to you soon!
jon
Reply

Hi Jon,
I think I found you on facebook, I'll add you if you ok it.
It's been a week and I thought it was time to try one. So I tentatively
cracked open a bottle. It was green. There were some flavours and
'bouquet' probably riding from the yeast still being active. It lacked
gas and had no head.
But it tasted great, very malty, which I like, obviously no hops but
what surprised me was that I couldn't tell. It was bitter, yet malty,
slightly fruity, heady a little cloying. The over all flavour was great
and it tasted Belgian. I used to drink a lot of lefe and chimay when I
was in the UK, expensive but great beer and my beer reminded me so
much of those.
I have another batch already fermenting. I think I've overdone it on
the crystal malt as this one is going to be quite dark. I like stouts and
dark beers, but I feel it may be too toasty. Will have to see. It's my
second only ever batch of barley produced beer, so I am happy and I'm
starting to see how you can control the taste.
I also used bread yeast as it's all I have. Of course I can't compare it
with what it might have been like if I'd used a proper beer yeast, I
think beer yeast ferments slower, so perhaps using less yeast or cooler
temps might emulate it. It's the same species anyway, just produced
for bread and not beer.
Well there you have it. My next serious tasting session is likely to be
over a month away now. Need to learn how to make different malts
and improve my bottling technique.
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Cheers, Carl
Reply

thanks so much for the updates. yes, please send me a friend request
on facebook. i think the bread yeast should work okay, i mean,
considering what you are going through to try to make beer i must
commend your efforts! you are a real trooper!
talk to you later,
jon
Reply

FYI: When malting barley, you are not converting the starches to
sugars, you are just making the barley produce the enzymes that can
convert the starches to sugars (2 types of amylase). The barley is
converting the starch, but at a slower rate and then using it to grow.
The mash is where these 2 enzymes go to work for us to produce the
sweet wort from the starch left in the malt. When you dry your malt
at high temperatures, these enzymes (and others) die forever. That is
why your mash did not work. With crystal malts, the mash occurs
within the green malt kernels so high temp drying does kill off the
enzymes, but they are unnecessary at that point.
Reply
Jon
July 29, 2011 at 2:38 PM
Hey "Anonymous," thanks so much for posting. I can't believe it's been
two years since I wrote this blog! I've learned so much in that time
about enzymes, diastatic power, etc, and I appreciate your
corrections to some of my misguided teachings in the above post.
Since then I have read that you can actually put your malted grains
into a pillow case and then throw them in the dryer on the "fluff air"
or "low heat" settings to dry them without killing off the enzymes. I
have yet to try this method, but it definitely sounds good in theory,
although I'm wondering how much energy you would need to expend to
run your dryer over and over! Anyway, thanks again and happy
brewing!
Jon
Reply
Anonymous October 4, 2011 at 11:31 PM

Jon, great topic.
Why not skip the drying process completely for your base malt? You
can run your sprouted barley through a meat grinder and mash it
directly. Drying is only needed if you intend to store the malt.
During mashing, you will need a protein rest at 122F for 30 min to
break down the extra protein added by the roots and acrospire. After
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the rest, proceed to normal mash temp of 155F.

Of course, you will need to produce your crystal ahead of time so it
can rest a couple weeks, allowing unwanted aromas from the roasting
process to dissipate. I like to make my crystal separately anyway in
case I burn it.
Jim
Reply
Anonymous December 3, 2011 at 12:22 AM

Suggestion on drying..what i did was i bought a heating bulb ( 125
watts) and run extension cord inside my oven and put the heating bulb
inside.The temp was running from 90 to 100.If you want a little bit
higher it would go up to 120 f if you turn on the oven light.
Reply
Jon December 3, 2011 at 12:25 AM

Wow that is a great idea that I never thought of. Thanks so much for
posting!
Reply
Anonymous April 6, 2012 at 3:29 PM

ultimate information ...... liked it bro ! wana add u on facebook if u
can write me ur fb id ..thanx Man !
Reply
Replies
Jon
April 18, 2012 at 8:48 PM
thanks for the comment! get me on facebook at Jonathan

Windt or homebrewboca.com
Reply
Anonymous June 30, 2012 at 5:50 AM

have u ever thought of building youre own kiln using light bulbs as a
heat source and a computer fan to circulate the air
Reply
Replies
Jon
July 1, 2012 at 8:00 PM
Sounds like a great idea! If you end up doing it please post

a link so I can see how it looks! I wonder if you could use
regular bulbs or if you would need some sort of heat lamp?
Reply
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Paul Robert Davis September 20, 2012 at 11:50 PM

Anyone interested in malting should learn that not all barley was
created
equal.
http://barleyworld.org/sites/default/files/nov07guest.pdf
Reply
Replies
Jon
September 22, 2012 at 8:10 PM
Thanks for the info! I did always wonder if I had actually

obtained the right type of barley when I did these
experiments with malting. I'm curious to see how my results
might change with a new barley source. Of course, that is
only one of the many factors to take into consideration,
but I'm sure it played a huge part in the level of success I
achieved. Thanks again for the comment!
Reply
Paul Robert Davis January 22, 2013 at 12:03 PM

Most of the barley your going to find in seed sources is for animal
feed. Current agronomic circumstances have encouraged many
farmers to opt out of growing malting varieties because it is a much
higher risk crop. This winter I am growing an experimental 1/4 acre of
Maja (winter 6 row approved as a malting cultivar in 2011) and I hope
to malt it upon harvest, if its a successful crop. My babies are in week
11 and they are still alive, and seem to be doing ok. I really value
your blog on home malting, there is very little information out there
on the subject.
I know a guy who used to work in the breeding program at AB
(anheuser busch) and he told me they had a machine called a micro
malter, with with which they could malt small samples of various
cultivars, and run malt analysis on them, determining there viability
for a new malting variety.
I want to home engineer something similar before harvest (late April
early May) and your thoughts and input might be valuable. I've been
thinking about our fruit dehydrators like they are a miniature kiln,
but the thoughts still in infancy.
Prost
Reply
Jon
January 22, 2013 at 12:46 PM
I'm thinking that if I ever did this again I would try some sort of heat
lamp system like those outlined in previous comments here. I got your
FB request btw.. let's stay in touch I'm def curious to see how your
experiments turn out :)
Reply
18/19
27/11/2014
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19/19

My Adventures in Brewing - Malting Barley at Home Maltare Barley Malting

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MO NDAY , J UNE 22, 2009

Malting Barley At Home

So I decided that I wanted to keep the process as simple as possible

On tap: Belgian Dubbel

Primary (5gallon): "Graff" Cider

Primary (1gallon): "Liquid Sunshine"

bag of premium unhulled barley seed that has been produced

Ideas for the Holidays: Pumpkin Ale,

Brewing Related Links:

Come to life and fade away;

A statesman is an easy man, he tells

A journalist invents his lies, and

During this stage of germination it is very important to stir the grains

When the grain is almost completely dry (chew some it should be

According to some of the internet posts I have read, it is best to then

That's it!!! I will blog again on my first "homemalted" brew day!

Posted by Jon at 6:15 PM

Anonymous July 30, 2009 at 12:20 PM

Jonny Windt July 30, 2009 at 2:10 PM

Anonymous July 31, 2009 at 2:11 PM

Jonny Windt July 31, 2009 at 2:31 PM

Anonymous August 3, 2009 at 9:30 PM

Going to give my litre 3 weeks before tasting again. In the meantime I

Jonny Windt August 4, 2009 at 4:17 PM

Anonymous August 4, 2009 at 7:02 PM

Anonymous August 4, 2009 at 7:11 PM

keep you up to date, especially on the official testing.

Jonny Windt August 4, 2009 at 8:03 PM

Anonymous August 10, 2009 at 10:00 PM

Jonny Windt August 10, 2009 at 10:35 PM

Anonymous July 28, 2011 at 10:38 PM

July 29, 2011 at 2:38 PM

Anonymous October 4, 2011 at 11:31 PM

the rest, proceed to normal mash temp of 155F.

Anonymous December 3, 2011 at 12:22 AM

Jon December 3, 2011 at 12:25 AM

Anonymous April 6, 2012 at 3:29 PM

April 18, 2012 at 8:48 PM

thanks for the comment! get me on facebook at Jonathan

Anonymous June 30, 2012 at 5:50 AM

July 1, 2012 at 8:00 PM

Sounds like a great idea! If you end up doing it please post

Paul Robert Davis September 20, 2012 at 11:50 PM

September 22, 2012 at 8:10 PM

Thanks for the info! I did always wonder if I had actually

Paul Robert Davis January 22, 2013 at 12:03 PM

January 22, 2013 at 12:46 PM

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