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knitting
ASSIGNMENT - 4
S.Suganya
Knitwear Design
Semester 6
B(D)/10/836
A warp knitted structure is made up of two parts. The first is the stitch itself, which is
formed by wrapping the yarn around the needle and drawing it through the previously
knitted loop. This wrapping of the yarn is called an overlap.
The second part of stitch formation is the length of yarn linking together the stitches and
this is termed the under lap, which is formed by the lateral movement of the yarns across
the needles. The length of the under lap is defined in terms of needle spaces. The longer the
under lap, the more it lies at right angles to the fabric length axis. The longer the under lap
for a given warp the greater the increase in lateral fabric stability, conversely a shorter
under lap reduces the width-wise stability and strength and increases the lengthways
stability of the fabric. The length of the under lap also influences the fabric weight. When
knitting with a longer under lap, more yarn has to be supplied to the knitting needles.
The under lap crosses and covers more Wales on its way, with the result that the fabric
becomes heavier, thicker and denser. Since the under lap is connected to the root of the
stitch, it causes a lateral displacement in the root of the stitch due to the warp tension. The
reciprocating movements of the yarn, therefore, cause the stitch of each knitted course to
incline in the same direction, alternately to the left and to the right. In order to control both
the lateral and longitudinal properties, as well as to produce an improved fabric appearance
with erect loops, a second set of yarns is usually employed. The second set is usually moved
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in the opposite direction to the first in order to help balance the lateral forces on the
needles. The length of the under lap need not necessarily be the same for both sets of
yarns.
Warp knitting comprises several types of knitted fabrics, including tricot, raschel knits,
and Milanese knits. All warp-knit fabrics are resistant to runs and relatively easy to sew.
Tricot is very common in lingerie. Milanese is stronger, more stable, smoother and more
expensive than tricot and, hence, is used in better lingerie. Milanese is now virtually
obsolete. Raschel knits do not stretch significantly and are often bulky; consequently, they
are often used as an unlined material for coats, jackets, straight skirts and dresses. The
largest outlet for the Raschel Warp Knitting Machine is for lace fabric and trimmings.
The swinging motion is obtained from the main cam shaft while the shogging motion
isobtained from the pattern wheel or pattern drum provided at one side of the machine.
The no. of pattern wheels or no. of endless chain links will be equal to the no. of guide bars
used. The lateral movement of the guide bars along the needle bars or parallel to the needle
baris called a shogging motion. The amount of yarn supplied to the guide bar for a definite
number of courses iscalled run-in or amount of yarn required (inch ) to 480 courses ( 1 rack )
is termed as run-in.
The ratio of Run-in between two guide bars is termed as
Run-in ratio: Run-in ratio is related to the loop length & structure of fabric & thus the
appearance & knitting performance
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Sportswear
Outerwear
Nets
Plush fabrics
Blankets
Shoe fabrics
Terry fabrics
Medical textiles
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2010 can rightly be called the Year of warp knitting as demand for warp knitting machines
continued to grow from the beginning of 2010 due to huge consumption for warp knitted
fabrics in domestic market, revealed Mr Shewale who is currently the Product Head Warp
Knitting with A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited and is responsible for Karl Mayer business in
India
One more informative session this caught the attention of the stakeholders and industry
leaders of the textile sector at the International Conference on Manmade Fibre Textiles
was the presentation by Mr Kishore Shewale who spoke on Warp Knitting Technology for
Innovative Textile Applications??
Giving details about the technology he said, Warp knitting is by far the most versatile and a
high productive fabric production system in textile industry. Although this industry is
present in India since many decades, it is not widely known or popular like other fabric
forming processes such as weaving and circular knitting.
Warp knitted fabrics can be produced in various structures such as rigid and elastic, open
or closely knit structures, in flat or tubular or also in 3 dimensional form. The fabric widths
can go up to 6.6 meters or even in multiple of this width if it is a net structure. Warp knitted
fabrics are often mistaken as woven or circular knitted fabrics though there is a distinct
difference in the fabric structure and characteristics.
Warp knitting machines are mainly classified in two sections or groups Tricot and Raschel.
Basic knitting elements on the Tricot machines are guides, needle, tongues and compound
sinker and those on the Raschel machines are guides, needles, tongues, stitch comb bar and
knock over comb or trick plate.
The complete knitting cycle due to one revolution of main shaft or 1 rpm of the machine,
which forms a loop in vertical direction, which is known as Course similar to pick in
woven fabric can be divided in to four different movements of guide bar, swing in, overlap,
swingout and under lap.
Providing an overview of the warp knitting industry, he informed, Indian warp knitting
industry is scattered in different pockets like Mumbai, Surat, Delhi, Ludhiana and Amritsar
mainly producing 2 bar and 3 bar tricot fabrics. The main application areas are ladies dress
material and saree, lingerie and outerwear, furnishing fabrics, shoe fabrics, automotive
fabrics, agro textiles and interlinings.
Warp Knitted Medical Implantable Textiles
Implants which are commonly used include vascular grafts, ligaments, heart valve
components, hernia mesh fabrics and adhesion barriers. For example when aortic
aneurysms occur, a catheter is inserted into an artery in the groin in order to deliver the
implanted polyester graft to the aortic wall where it is attached by small positioning hooks.
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For example, in one patented internal hernia product, a hernia repair is achieved by using a
knitted polypropylene mesh patch in conjunction with an underlay patch that is put on the
inside of the abdominal wall and another patch on the outside of the abdominal wall and
the knitted polypropylene mesh patch connector joins the two patches together while
plugging the rupture in the wall.
In some applications, knitted polyester vascular and cardiovascular grafts possess a tricot
fabric with a velour surface which is designed to promote tissue growth. In this application,
reverse locknit is a popular structure.
Other examples of support products include compressive bandages which are used on arms
or legs in addition to graduated compressive bandages made on either tricot, raschel or
crochet machines.
modification of the laid-in tricot construction shown in A in that it uses a closed half tricot
stitch on the front bar in order to connect wales together. Construction C in Table 7,
documents a simple mesh fabric design that can be produced on a tricot machine.
Construction D illustrates a raschel fabric with a reasonably long laid-in back bar fabric
construction using a chain stitch on the front bar whereas Construction E is a similar laidin fabric but uses a closed half tricot stitch. Raschel construction F illustrates a similar
fabric to E but with a longer lay-in to give a heavier, less open fabric compared to E. All
fabrics in Table 7 knit with 100% spun cotton yarns
the latest created thread-carriers equipped with changeable needles are attached. The two
elements jointly make a string bar. Each of these string bars is connected at one end to a
servo motor, which conducts the racking movement. A damper filled with gas at the other
end takes care of string tension over the complete racking range. The strings pass via guide
sections that can hold up to eight strings. All the pairs of guide sections create one unit.
At present, two machines are equipped with this new technology, 'Fascination Lace FL
20/16' and 'Textronic Lace TL 66/1/36'. The Textronic TL 66/1/36 attains a speed up to 350
rpm and Fascination Lace FL 20/16 reaches up to 700 rpm.
The machines that comply with the above mentioned features, such as flexibility, speed,
low-maintenance and better communication, are highly recommended to enhance
production quantity and quality.
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The SFJ202-T is a full jacquard machine developed especially for economical knitting of
collars and other trimmings, as well as full-width panels and even shaping. Its twin-carriage
configuration features our renowned Knitran cam systems and has full tandem knitting
capability for increased flexibility and high productivity.
The SFJ also features advanced knitting technology such as a new electromagnetic direct
needle selection system, top tensions with one-touch threading and belt-drive with variable
knitting width. A full safety cover is also included for noise suppression, dust-proofing and
operator safety. The SFJ202-T offers high cost-performance suitable for the production of a
vast assortment of knitted items.
When knots are detected during knitting, the top tension automatically adjusts machine
operation according to the situation. The machine stops for large knots, while small knots
cause the machine to simply slow down to a preset speed adjustable by 10 levels. The top
tension device thus serves as an effective quality control sensor.
Increased opportunities with stitch presser technology Shima Seikis patented stitch presser
unit features a special motor drive system which allows the pressers to carry out individual
on/off adjustments in both knit and transfer, in either direction. In addition to providing
better control for knock overs, these pressers gently hold down the fabric for improved
consistency and control.
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