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Disclaimer: climbing is inherently dangerous, and so are power tools. Do not attempt to construct
anything in this manual without proper training or safety precautions. Doing so can result in injury or
death. The methods and design laid out in this manual are not a certification of integrity, that is up to
you and your construction.
Table of Contents
100 degree triangle rail construction manual............................................................................................. 1
by Jace W...............................................................................................................................................1
Fine cut pieces............................................................................................................................................3
Laying out & cutting out the plywood panels............................................................................................5
Cutting the angles into the panels.............................................................................................................. 8
Laying out the jig..................................................................................................................................... 10
Laying out the screw locations.................................................................................................................13
drill the outlined holes..............................................................................................................................15
Layout T-nut locations............................................................................................................................. 16
glueing it all together............................................................................................................................... 19
Sanding.....................................................................................................................................................23
Finishing...................................................................................................................................................24
Varnish with texture........................................................................................................................24
Epoxy and texture........................................................................................................................... 24
Latex spray paint.............................................................................................................................25
Textures...........................................................................................................................................25
anti cheating devices................................................................................................................................ 26
clean up.................................................................................................................................................... 27
References:...............................................................................................................................................28
Required Materials:..................................................................................................................................29
Required Tools:........................................................................................................................................ 30
Helpful tools:............................................................................................................................................31
Estimated cost breakdown:...................................................................................................................... 32
Credits:..................................................................................................................................................... 33
Contact US............................................................................................................................................... 34
BigDealVolumes@gmail.com ............................................................................................................ 34
Panel A:
100 deg rail triangle
Panel B:
Panel D: (cut from the 1in x 1in x 36in Poplar Square Dowel) (11 required per volume)
This pattern creates enough pieces for 2 full volumes (can you say hand jams?)
The cut pattern outlined here is just to simplify the process, feel free to adjust as you need.
It takes some practice to get the angles just right, practice on scrap first.
Be sure to not accidently remove too much material when cutting the angles.
Obey all the warnings and cautions on your power tools
Panel A:
Panel B:
Panel C: (this piece should already be cut from earlier, but its here for redundancy)
Panel D: (cut from the 1in x 1in x 36in Poplar Square Dowel )
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The following illustrations are to aid in understanding how the jig is used in the construction
process.
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12
Panel B:
This row
is angled.
See bellow.
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the bottom row of holes must be drilled at 50 deg off of 90 deg to the piece.
The entire bottom row of panel B should be offset, its recommended that you make special note
of these.
Panel C: dont worry about piloting those holes, they can be made later
Panel D: dont worry about piloting these holes, they can be drilled later, but just in case.
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An angle drill guide is almost a requirement for this project; its well worth the money.
When drilling for wood screws make sure that you are drilling with the proper drill bit #
The outlined holes are for #8 wood screws.
Recommended drill bit is a 11/64 bit with a 3/8 countersink. (see recommended tools)
Its not advised to use self countersinking screws because they may cause problems later.
Most of the mounting holes are designed for 2in. long screws
1.25-in. screws are needed for joining the volume together
#8 x 2-in. star drive wood screws.
#8 x 1.25-in. star drive wood screws.
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Ensure that you are not drilling where a t-nut wont fit.
When in doubt, don't drill. You can always drill it later.
Don't use a spade drill bit, they tend to chip plywood unless you are careful.
This design assumes the following:
the hole will be drilled with a 7/16 forstner bit
the t-nuts are 3 screw type (these do less damage in the long run and are easier to replace
Panel A: (remember that not all available holes should be drilled)
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Panel C: (up to and including this step, both panel C's are identical.)
At this point you can install the t-nuts, however doing this means you will need to plug the
holes later to prevent damage.
There are a few ways to plug t-nut holes.
Foam plugs that are cut off a long foam rod.
Expanding foam, but the threads must be re-taped after, this option looks the best but is
the most time consuming.
Expanding ear plugs, these are cheap and easy to push out at the end of the project, but
the upfront cost may be higher, good thing you can reuse them for another volume if
your careful.
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With all the holes drilled, why not just screw it together?
Gluing the volume together has lots of benefits in the long run and immediate gain.
Gluing fills in the gaps that would otherwise need to be filled in with putty.
It keeps the volume from shifting against the screws (a normal occurrence when wood is
loaded and unloaded)
It keeps the volume from squeaking and sounding unsafe.
When someone else is dynoing off it with all their might, you will feel better knowing
that you put some glue in there too.
Its recommended to use Titebond III type glue.
However, the chief components to look for are sand-ability and at minimum 3500psi
strength.
The jig is useful for gluing panels A & B, more support may be necessary.
Before applying glue to the A & B panels line, install screws on the jig so they hold the panels.
4 screws is typically enough to prevent the panels from shifting.
Clean the surfaces to be joined with the cleaner recommended for the glue you are using
Apply the glue.
There should be glue slightly protruding from all edges of the joint to ensure a consistent
bond.
Join the pieces
Install the 1.25 in long screws along the bond line.
Wait for the glue to dry
Important: go get a drink (you know, rehydrate)
When the glue has set, remove the pieces from the jig and flip them over.
100 deg rail triangle
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Apply light weights to the pieces to ensure they seat against the other panels.
Let the whole thing rest until the glue is fully set.
Sanding
Note: If you have installed the t-nuts by this step, and have not already, its advised that you plug
the holes with squishy ear plugs before sanding, the dust can become difficult to remove later and
may damage the threads.
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The first step in getting a good finish is to sand a very long time and do it very well.
A handheld rotary sander is a good investment for a project of this size and will save you time
and effort.
Its a good idea to fill all the screw heads and surrounding area with wood putty to help hide the
screws. Wood glue is an alternative, however it takes longer to set to a sand-able state.
Sand down the sharp edges with 60 grit paper.
Keep sanding and reducing the grit when applicable from 60 to 80 to 150 to 220 grit.
After you are satisfied that everything is smooth and shaped the way you want it, move on.
Finishing
Note: If you have installed the t-nuts by this step, its advised that you plug the holes with squishy
ear plugs before finishing, the dust and finish can become difficult to remove later and may
damage the threads.
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The recommendation for this volume is West systems epoxy, its strong and lasts a
long time, not to mention all the options for modifying the epoxy they offer so
you can achieve some very nice results.
The other option is clear bar top of one form or another, these tend to be a bit
cheaper and keep a very nice clear sheen to them for a long time, however, they
can be brittle and texturing them is difficult.
When mixing epoxys you need good ventilation and should follow all the
manufactures instructions.
The process is similar to varnish except with each new coat you need mix a new
batch of epoxy.
Some epoxys need to have additional coats applied within a specific amount of
time, so you may need to schedule a block of time to apply additional coats.
Texture is not all impossible and in some cases lasts longer than other textures.
The best method for texture epoxy that I have seen is to apply layers until the last
coat, then apply an extra thin layer and sprinkle it with iodized salt.
Let the coat settle then rinse the volume gently with water to dissolve the salt
100 deg rail triangle
particles.
This takes some effort to get just right, I highly recommend you practice first.
Textures
Spray on non-slip works great and you can lay a stencil over areas to
create some interesting patterns.
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Skateboard grip tape works fantastic too, its strong, removes easy when worn out
and creates an excellent textured surface.
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The common practice is to use duct tape to prevent people from grabbing the edge of a volume.
The recommended option is to buy skirtboard rubber
Skirtboard is designed to be under high pressure for long periods of time.
One of the cheaper producers is www.rubbersheetroll.com
they also offer an adhesive backing thus removing the need for additional glue.
Its recommended that you use 1/6 in thick or 3/32 in thick by 0.5 in or 1 in wide strips.
Rubber striping of this size is relatively cheap when compared to the cost or repairing a volume.
When applying the striping apply it with a slight overlay on the edges, then trim it back later.
Only apply the rubber around the very outside perimeter of the volume.
This rubber striping will prevent cheating, ensure a good surface mount to the wall, prevent
creaking when the volume is weighted, and prevent damage to the wall and volume over time.
Clean up
After all the glue, paint, tape and beer has dried, its time to do a few last steps to make it look
good.
If you plugged the t-nut holes earlier, its time to unplug them, typically the easiest way is to
punch them out from the back but as long as your sure where the holes are, do whatever is
easiest.
Clean the mounting holes with the drill bit from earlier to make sure no paint or particulate got
in.
Note: To make the wood last longer, put some high strength epoxy into the countersink area of
the screw holes. When you mount the volume and drive the screws in, the countersink heads
will have more ability to hold the wood.
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References:
Human exertion limits
http://msis.jsc.nasa.gov/sections/section04.htm
Plywood structural references
http://apawood-europe.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/PS-1-09-+APA-trademarks.pdf
T-nut pull through testing data
http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/eckelman/documents/d199856a.pdf
Wood screw technical report by the Forest Products Lab of the US federal government
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_08.pdf
Tiebond III Glue information
http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af
Tiebond III Glue MSDS
http://www.franklininternational.com/msds/1413.042m0fao0020.pdf
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Required Materials:
in x 4ft x 8ft plywood
http://www.lowes.com/pd_75514-99899-75514_0__?
productId=3658448&Ntt=3%2F4in+4ft+8ft+plywood&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3D3%252F4in
%2B4ft%2B8ft%2Bplywood&facetInfo=
1inx1inx36in
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-in-x-1-in-Poplar-Square-Dowel-1-3HWSQED/202287699
#8 2in wood screws
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Drive-Straight-8-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Exterior-Screws-130-Pack57322/100190883?N=5yc1vZc2blZ1z0sg12Z1z0sg14Z1z12l90
#8 1.25in wood screws
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-8-x-1-1-4-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Screw-240-per-Pack4191020400326/202040967?N=5yc1vZc2blZ1z0sg0uZ1z0sg12Z1z12l90
Tiebond III Glue
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-16-oz-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-1414/100522343
Optional finishing supplies as you see fit:
West systems epoxy (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/product-selection-chart)
105 Epoxy
207 Hardener
Barcoat (http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com)
latex spray paint (any brand as long as you prep the wood as instructed)
Minwax system finish:
Always apply in this order (top first):
1. Wood conditioner (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-waterbased-prestain-wood-conditioner)
2. Water based wood stain (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-waterbased-wood-stain)
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Required Tools:
3/8 countersink
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Helpful tools:
Drill angle guide, makes drilling angle and complex holes so much easier.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Drill-Guide-and-Chuck-36-37/100349264?
keyword=angle+drill+guide
Power sander, (damaging you shoulder making a climbing volume seems kind of silly.)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-2-Amp-1-4-Sheet-Sander-Green-S652DGK/205179523?
N=5yc1vZc29d
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50$
6$ x 6 = 36$
4$
8$
8$
12$
3/8 countersink
5$
6$
3$
Eye surgery
5000$ min
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Credits:
Design by: Jace W.
Special thanks to :
Carolyn L
Jason L
Karynne C
and
http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/
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Contact US
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This manual is published by Big Deal Volumes as part of the DIY collection.
More to come.
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