Research on Apparel Production Capacity Prediction of Knitted Garments Cutting

Bing-fei Gu, Rong Jin, Guo-lian Liu

Research on Apparel Production Capacity Prediction of Knitted

Garments Cutting
1

Bing-fei Gu, 2Rong Jin, 3Guo-lian Liu

National Engineering Laboratory for Modern Silk, jstxgbf@yahoo.com.cn
2,
College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, China,
15950035978@qq.com
*3,
College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, China,
liuguolian@suda.edu.cn
1,

Abstract
As an important link of the garment production, enhancing the forecasts of the production capacity
on cutting aspects has a great significance on reasonable arrangements for production planning, and
can improve the efficiency of garment production. In this paper, the main links of cutting aspect are
analyzed, such as pattern layout drawing, spreading, and cutting cloth into certain shape, marking,
testing, sorting and bundling and so on. A field survey is carried out to get the cutting time of knitted
garment. Ten groups of total time on the cutting aspects of knitted garment are investigated in different
enterprises. Through correlation analysis of the data, the major factors which influence the knitted
garment cutting mostly are got. And then the formula of the major factors can be established by
regression analysis. So the formula of the knitted garment total cutting time can be deduced. This study
can make clothing company forecast the knitted garment cutting time, and arrange the reasonable
production planning to reduce the unnecessary loss of the company and increase the production
efficiency.

Keywords: Cutting Capacity; Influence Factors; Time Calculations

1. Introduction
In the value chain of global clothing, the clothing value chain includes material handling, product
design, textile production, ready-to wear manufacture and marketing. According to statistics, the
appropriation of profits in clothing value chain is as follows, shown in Figure 1: design of 40%,
marketing of 50%, and production of 10% [1-2].
Production of 10%
Design of 40%

Marketing of 50%

Figure 1. Appropriation of profits in clothing value chain

Figure 1 shows that, design and marketing is high end of clothing value chain, while production is
low side. In developed country, all garment enterprises turn to the high end of clothing value chain to
realize the upgrade of clothing industry. When they build marketing network, their own garment
production network is allocated at the same time to realize order globalization and production
globalization [3]. They have their own brand, and entrust developing countries with original equipment

Advances in information Sciences and Service Sciences(AISS)

Volume5, Number8, April 2013
doi:10.4156/AISS.vol5.issue8.29

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Research on Apparel Production Capacity Prediction of Knitted Garments Cutting

Bing-fei Gu, Rong Jin, Guo-lian Liu

manufacture after product design. Then the products will be sold in their exclusive shops or department
shops.
In clothing industry, China is low side of clothing value chain, and the word market occupancy rate
is only 17%, mainly in trade process. Thirty years of China's market economic reform bring economic
high-speed increase, and there is also a steady and fast development in clothing industry [4]. However,
at the same time, there is a rise in productive material cost and labor cost, and there is a decline in
power of consumption and space of profit. Nowadays, with gradually mature of clothing industry,
domestic own garment brands must be developed into international market. Meanwhile, though low
profit can be got by trade process, new technique should be also developed, and the labor cost
advantage will be turned to technological superiority soon.
To face and solve the problems of clothing industry, the efficiency of each link in apparel
production must be enhanced. Research on predication of apparel production capacity is important for
clothing enterprises to arrange the production planning, increase the production efficiency, and save
production cost, so it has practical significance in clothing industry [5-6].
Apparel technology and quality are the most essential demand, when the consumers are choosing
clothes. With the development of technology, modern knitwear have overcome many disadvantages,
and the advantages have been expanded and used to receive the recognition of most consumers because
of unique style routes [7-8]. The knitwear has been dressed more and more, so they play a important
role in underwear, T-shirts and sweaters.
As an important link of the garment production, enhancing the forecasts of the production capacity
on cutting aspects has a great significance on reasonable arrangements for production planning, and
improves the efficiency of garment production. In this paper, the main links of cutting aspect are
analyzed, such as pattern layout drawing, spreading, and cutting cloth into certain shape, marking,
testing, sorting and bundling and so on. A field survey is carried out to get the cutting time of knitted
garment. Ten groups of total time on the cutting aspects of knitted garment are investigated in different
enterprises. Through correlation analysis of the data, the major factors which influence the knitted
garment cutting mostly are got. And then the formula of the major factors can be established by
regression analysis. So the formula of the knitted garment total cutting time can be deduced. This study
can make clothing company forecast the knitted garment cutting time, and arrange the reasonable
production planning to reduce the unnecessary loss of the company and increase the production
efficiency.

2. Main processes of cutting

The production capacity of clothing cutting depends on the type of clothes, the time of spreading,
cutting, marking, testing, sorting and bundling, and so on. The specific index of production capacity of
clothing cutting is the total production time of cutting, that is, the total time needed to finish a bed of
cutting task.
According to the variety of cutting fabric, the process and specialization of cutting in clothing
enterprises are different, but the main processes are basically similar, which can be divided into the
following contents.
(1) Pattern layout drawing
The main purpose of layout drawing is to meet the requirements of design and production, material
saving, pattern layout drawing is the operation about print the pattern in the paper, then draw the layout
on the fabric, to finish the trim. Every trim need one layout drawing, according to the spreading
number, need copy the drawing to satisfy many times trim.
(2) Spreading
Spread the fabrics layer-by-layer on the bed according to the spreading length and spreading layers
defined by trim distribution scheme, we call it spreading. There are three methods of spreading single
side single orientation, single side double orientation and double sides and double orientation. Different
spreading methods cause different production efficiency.
(3) Cutting
Based on the layout lay on the fabric, cutting machine cut the whole fabric to production pieces.
There are many ways about clothing cutting, according to level of mechanization there are
automatic-cutting, semi-automatic-cutting and hand-cutting. According to dimension there are

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Research on Apparel Production Capacity Prediction of Knitted Garments Cutting

Bing-fei Gu, Rong Jin, Guo-lian Liu

flat-cutting and three-dimensional cutting. The production capacity of the different cutting methods is
different.
(4) Marking and testing
There will color difference between different cloth, to make sure the cloths all parts from one layer
fabric, a clothing pieces must be cut from the same layer fabric, Marking pieces one by one to avoid
color difference. Generally while marking also check the cutting quality, check whether tainted cutting,
wrong cutting or fabric faults. Different fabric quality different cutting quality it will affect the marking
production capacity.
Different color, different quality requirement, different fabric and different style of clothing
production, there are different marking methods. For example as long as the color is distinguished,
directly marking the edge of the cutting pieces such as jackets and denim clothing.
But for a high-grade suit with dark color or light color, due to difficult to distinguish the color or
high quality requirement, it needs to be marked by layers. By different methods there are different
production capacities.
(5) Sorting and bundling
According to the arrangement of the assembly line production of the sewing process, need to sort
and bundle the cut-parts. Different number of each piece of clothing pieces, different bundle layers, its
production capacity is different.
Through the processing of the cutting process, and pass the cut-parts quality check, then it can
delivered to sewing workshop to do sewing process.

3. Garment cutting production capacity measurement

Garment cutting production capacity measurement is defined according to the research and analysis
on the companys production status, finding out each factor which influences the cutting production
capacity and its influence degree. The production time is recorded by measuring all aspects of a cutting
task on the spot. The total production time is calculated at the end.
Methods for the measurement are as follows:
(1) The factors are investigated, which are the number of operation works, processing equipment,
cutting workshop personnel, processing equipment, the length of spreading, width of fabric, plies of the
spreading material, spreading method, modes of setting cutting pieces.
(2) Operation time of each link is recorded by using a stopwatch, including preparing time,
spreading time, breaking time, drawing sample time, cutting time, marking and testing time, and
sorting and bundling time.
The average result is got by 10 times of test. Spreading one layer at a time, the time of spreading,
breaking and marking is recorded respectively during the concrete measurement.
(3) The whole production time is accumulative by all parts of the cutting task with documented data.

4. Calculation of production capacity for garment cutting

Garment cutting production capacity is the total time for all aspects by completing a b cutting task.
It also can be got by analyzing statistical data and then establishing the corresponding formulas for
calculation.
Multivariate statistical analysis is chosen because that a result of cutting production ability is
determined by many factors, calculation model is established to calculate. The following example of
the knitted apparel is used to explain.

4.1. Extraction of the element influenced total cutting time

Cutting process data of 10 sets of representative clothing are surveyed, which are measured by
different knitted fabrics and different styles at the enterprise production departments.
The correlation analysis is carried out by measuring the 10 groups of knitted apparel cutting
operation time and laying time, breaking time, designated sample time, cutting time, operation
preparing time, marking inspection time and rolling time. The results are shown in Table 1. It can be

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Bing-fei Gu, Rong Jin, Guo-lian Liu

seen that knitted garment cutting operation total time correlation is influenced most by laying time,
followed by rolling time, designated sample time, cutting time and marking inspection time. Cutting
operation total time is less influenced by operation preparing time and breaking time, and their
influence can be neglected.
Table 1. Results of the correlation analysis
Total Spreading Breaking marking Cutting Preparation Marking and Bundling

Pearson
correlation
Total
cutting
time

time Time

time

time

time

time

testing

time

.705*

-.039

.482

.362

-.279

.396

.512

.023

.914

.159

.304

.436

.257

.130

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

Significant
( bilateral )
Sample

10

number

4.2. Calculation of production time of each link

Total time of cutting operation is influenced most by the spreading time. The calculation method is
introduced through the spreading time as an example.
Spreading time is determined by the factors such as the length, the width, the number of layers. 10
groups of knitted clothing shop material time got from survey are shown in Table 2. The results of
correlation analysis are shown in Table 3.
Table 2. Spreading time by measuring
2
3
4
5
6

Groups

Spreading timemin

140.8

97.5

76

120

64

45.9

10

116.7

156

200

43.5

Table 3. The results of correlation analysis

Pearson correlation
Spreading
time

Spreading

Spreading

Spreading

Spreading

time

length

width

layers

.236

-.034

.931**

.511

.926

.000

10

10

10

Significant ( bilateral )
Sample number

10

It can be seen from the table that the spreading time is influenced most by the spreading plies.
Linear regression analysis is chosen. The results are showed in Table 4.
Table 4. Regression analysis
Non standardized coefficients
model
B

Standard error

(Constant)

23.467

13.044

spreading layers

.832

.115

standardized
coefficients

Sig.

1.799

.110

7.200

.000

Trial version

1
.931

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Research on Apparel Production Capacity Prediction of Knitted Garments Cutting

Bing-fei Gu, Rong Jin, Guo-lian Liu

The calculation formula can be got for the time of knitted clothing spreading material from the
table.
Spreading time x1=23.467+0.832C
(1)
In the formula: C=spreading layers
Similarly, D is chosen to be a set of row number, E for the number of marking dress piece. The
calculation formulas can be got for knitted apparel rolling time, delimit kind, marking time and cutting
time.
Bundling time x2=-3.132+0.394E
(2)
Marking time x3=190.615-0.778b+4.530D
(3)
Notching and bundling time x4=0.12+0.063D
(4)
Cutting time x5=24.502+0.389E
(5)

4.3. Calculation of total cutting operation time

Knitwear cutting operation total time formula is created based on the above several factors, which
influenced the total cutting time more. First, the total operation time can be get by adding time of each
link in knitting wear cutting working time. Total cutting time is showed in Table 5.
Table 5. Total cutting time
2
3
4
5

Groups

Total operation time(min)

246

315

262

230

252

10

257

310

295

382

157

Linear regression analysis is chosen to determine the relationship about the total cutting time of
knitted garments , spreading time, rolling time, designated sampling time, marking time and cutting
time. The results are showed in Table 6.
Table 6. Linear regression analysis
Non standardized coefficients
model

standardized
coefficients

Sig.

2.181

.095

coefficients

Standard error

(Constant)

90.237

41.377

Spreading time

.849

.240

.669

3.539

.024

Bunding time

3.581

1.185

.505

3.023

.039

Marking time

.624

1.119

.268

.558

.607

-166.425

169.198

-.490

-.984

.381

.980

.325

.575

3.021

.039

Notching and
inspection time
Cutting time

The formula of knitted garment cutting operation total time can be got from the table:
y=90.237+0.849X1 +3.581X2+ 0.624X3-166.425X4+0.980 X5
In the formula:
X1spreading time
X2bundling time
X3marking time
X4notching and inspection time
X5Cutting time

(6)

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5. Prediction system of cutting capacity

5.1. Purpose and thinking of prediction system
With the popularization of computer technology, computer technology is increasingly being applied
to the garment enterprises. 20 years since the reform and development, China has eight consecutive
years to be the NO.1 in the garment production and export. Related industries, such as the clothing
auxiliary equipment and technological progress, will eventually be reflected clothing industry. The
clothing industry will use the characteristics of computer, such as efficient, rapid and flexible, to help
the clothing enterprise predict the productive capacity, and turn labor intensive into technology
industry.
In order to make the enterprise predict each batch of knitted apparel in cutting project needs time
more quickly, to arrange production plan, not affect the delivery time, to avoid unnecessary losses, this
prediction system is specially developed.
The developing thinking is shown in Figure 2.

Starting

Main interface

Prediction interface

Fill in values of factors

Calculations

Get results

End
Figure 2. Developing thinking of prediction system

5.2 Verification of prediction system

If an order of knitwear is received in clothing enterprises and the breadth of fabric is 160
centimeters, according to the arrangement the spreading length is 220 centimeters, the number of plies
is 120, 4 parts are laid on each layer, there are 32 cut-parts on layout picture. These data are input into
the program to get the related time of cutting operations.
Open the program, and enter into the main interface, shown in Figure 3.
Click on the main interface, and the interface of data input will be shown as Figure 4.
After data input, click running to get the results, shown in Figure 5.
According to Figure 5, the system forecasts that the total time of cutting the knitted clothes is 231
minutes, and the practical cutting time is 249 minutes. So the predicted results is 18 minutes less than
the practical time, and it can be considered that this system is feasible to predict the cutting time of
knitwear to provide definite reference value for clothing enterprises.

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Figure 3. Main interface of prediction system

Figure 4. Interface of data input

Figure 5. Running results of prediction system

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6. Conclusion
Garment cutting project is the first step of putting clothing into production .and it has a great
influence on the garment sewing and processing process. Therefore, prediction must be improved about
the garment cutting process production capacity and in order to control the garment cutting time. the
quality of the garment cutting can be in control at the end.
Knitted garment cutting operation time is mainly composed of spreading time, rolling time,
designated sampling time, marking time, cutting time. The result is drawn in this article through
measuring the knitted garment cutting each link time in clothing companies. SPSS system is used to
relevant analysis according to their respective influence factors. With the results of linear regression
analysis using SPSS, a series of formulas are got. According to the formula, using the VB
programming, a forecast system is made. After verification, the prediction system can be used to
predict the clothing enterprises knitted garment cutting operation time and thereby the production
schedule. The products could be delivered on time to reduce the unnecessary loss.
The research on prediction of knitting garment cutting time is only preliminary inquired the cutting
operation time formula. Further studies are still needed with analyzing a lot of data and doing deeper
experiments.

7. Acknowledgement
This paper is funded by the First Phase of Jiangsu Universities Distinctive Discipline Development
Program for Textile Science and Engineering of Soochow University.

8. References
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[3] He Qingyu, Knitting Introdution, China Textile Process, Bei Jing, 2003.
[4] Yu Zuhui, Knitting garment production management process, Soochow University, 2008
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