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Pagina 1

The rediscovery of amaranth

Technical improvement of amaranth to
support agricultural development
in semiarid areas of Mexico

In collaboration with

With contributions from

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Introduction

The rediscovery of amaranth. Technical improvement of amaranth to support

agricultural development in semiarid areas of Mexico, is a project born in 2004 on
proposal of DiSTAM, the Department of Food Science and Microbiology of the
University of Milan and developed in collaboration with Slow Food Foundation
for Biodiversity ONLUS thanks to the financing of the Cariplo Foundation, within
the International Partnerships for Development project, and the University of
Milan.
The project was realized by:
University of Milan - Faculty of Agriculture
Department of Food Science and Microbiology
Mara Lucisano, M. Ambrogina Pagani, Manuela Mariotti
Department of Agri-Food Molecular Sciences
Stefania Iametti, Francesco Bonomi
Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity
Alternativas y Procesos de Participacin Social (Alternatives and Processes for
Social Participation)
Grupo de Empresas Sociales Quali (Social Enterprises Quali Cooperative Group)
Grateful thanks are extended to the following for their valuable help
in developing the project:
C.R.A. Experimental Institute for Cereal Crops, S. Angelo Lodigiano (LO)
Department of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Economics and Policy University of Milan
Molino Quaglia, Vighizzolo dEste (PD)
Slow Food Presidium for Mondov cornmeal biscuits
Slow Food Presidium for dried Calizzano and Murialdo chestnuts
Balconi, Nerviano (MI)
R-biopharm Italia, Cerro al Lambro (MI)
Cooperativa Il Teccio, Calizzano (CN)
Pasticceria Cagna, Garessio (CN)
Il Bottegone, Rouburent (CN)
Margherita Quaglia, Montaldo Mondov (CN)
Produzioni Alimentari Michelis, Mondov (CN)
The following are thanked for allowing visits:
Leila Pharma Food, Fidenza (PR)
Pan dEste, Villa Estense (PD)
Mulino Sobrino, La Morra (CN)
Risi Zibra, Mulazzano (LO)

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The structure

The Slow Food Movement

Slow Food is a non-profit, eco-gastronomic organization that was founded in
1989 to counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and peoples dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from
and how it tastes.
Our movement is founded upon the concept of eco-gastronomy a recognition
of the essential connection between food, local area and planet.
Slow Food believes that food should be good, clean and fair. Food should taste
good; it should be produced in a way that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or human health; and food producers should receive fair compensation for their work.
Slow Food members consider themselves informed co-producers rather than consumers. They defend food heritage, traditions and culture and become a part of
the production process.
Now, with over 80,000 members around the world and more than 700 convivia
(local chapters), Slow Food is promoting a new approach to food production and
enjoyment through a range of organizations and activities. It manages projects to
defend biodiversity around the world (the Ark of Taste, Presidia); it organizes
taste education initiatives and courses for people to learn more about food (Taste
Workshops, Master of Food courses, School Gardens, the University of
Gastronomic Sciences); it develops events that enable producers and co-producers
to meet (Salone del Gusto, Cheese, Slow Fish, Aux Origines du Got and A Taste
of Slow); and it promotes information campaigns to make the public aware of
issues involving food.

www.slowfood.it - www.slowfood.com
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Pagina 4

The structure

The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity

The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity works in order to defend food biodiversity and food traditions around the world. It promotes sustainable forms of
agriculture that respect the environment, peoples cultural identity and animal
wellbeing, through many projects.
The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity was founded in Florence in 2003 in
partnership with the Tuscany Regional Authority, and is funded through the
efforts of the Slow Food movement, by institutions, private companies, other
Foundations and anyone interested in supporting projects defending biodiversity.
The Slow Food Foundation supports and spreads the idea of biodiversity as a factor in human, civil and democratic growth. It acts to defend the food heritage,
environmental, farming and artisan heritage in any country. While it supports
projects around the world, its most significant commitment is focused on developing countries, where defending biodiversity not only means improving peoples
quality of life, but can mean guaranteeing life itself.
Whit its work, always being in touch with producers and co-producers, the Slow
Food Foundation operates in order to identify, select and catalog agricultural and
food products at risk of extinction; to improve the sustainability of production
methods and protect food producing environments; to protect small producers,
strengthen their social role and cultural identity; to promote the geographical origins of products; to make quality artisan products widely known and accessible to
the public; to promote exchanges of information and knowledge among small
producers, thereby strengthening the worldwide network of food communities;
to promote a short supply chain, reducing intermediate stages between producers and co-producers.

www.fondazioneslowfood.it - www.slowfoodfoundation.com
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Pagina 5

The structure

The Presidia
The Foundations main activity is the Presidium project: there are 300 Presidia in
43 countries around the world, set up to protect small producers and save quality artisan products.
The Presidium project started in Italy in 1999, as an operational stage to the Ark
of Taste project: the Ark had catalogued hundreds of products at risk of extinction and Slow Food decided to take the next step, using the Presidia to enter
the practical world of production. It knew about the locations, had met producers and worked with them so it could help them to promote and publicize their
products, work and knowledge.
The first two projects were in Piedmont and in Tuscany (Italy), later on Slow
Food began to set up Presidia in developing countries. In these cases the
Presidium extended its scope, considering not only the production chain but
also social issues (for example the involvement of women or the education of
producers children) and environmental questions. In these countries the
Presidium often does not restrict itself to preserving a food tradition, but intervenes to improve a product, offering producers the technical assistance needed
(for example by paying for the services of an agronomist or arranging exchanges and training periods at high quality companies) or buying processing equipment such as a rice husker, a vacuum packaging machine or a combine harvester.
Thanks to the support of the entire Slow Food network, members, technical
experts, researchers, journalists, cooks and producers, the Presidia are helping
to improve production methods, train producers and develop the local and
international market for their products.

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The structure

Production Area:
Tehuacn Valley, Puebla State, Mexico

The Tehuacn Amaranth Presidium

The Amaranth Presidium, founded in March 2003 in collaboration with the the
Mexican organization Alternativas, aims to revive the cultivation of amaranth. It
covers sixty villages in Tehuacn Valley in Puebla and Oaxaca States (the Mixteca
Region, Mexico), involving over 1,000 native families. Each family plants on average a half hectare of amaranth and in the rest of the plot of land (milpa) plants
a mix of corn, beans, peppers and pumpkin. The amaranth grown by the
Presidium producers is harvested and processed under a common brand name:
Quali, or good in the Nhuatl language.
In recent years the Presidium has worked in three main areas: promoting a traditional sweet food based on amaranth (alegra); setting up a center for exhibiting
and selling amaranth in a Water Museum and developing experimental amaranth-based products. These activities are part of a new project entitled The
Rediscovery of Amaranth.

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Pagina 7

A healthy food for our children, this is amaranth firstly - says Doa Francisca easy to digest, nutritious and complete, that lends itself to many different
preparations, simple recipes such as tortillas or fried leaves, that the small girls
too learn to cook. For this reason it was well worth to accept the Quali proposal and to develop working groups, in order to learn to cultivate an amount of
amaranth not only for our private use, but for sale also.
Words by Doa Francisca Rosas, a tireless amaranth promoter and grower of Grupo
Esperanza, who participated to the first Terra Madre event in 2004 and who died in 2007 at
the age of 50.

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The structure

The Alternativas Association

The Organizacin Civil de Desarollo (OCD, Civil Organization for Development)
Alternativas y Procesos de Participacin Social (Alternatives and Processes for
Social Participation) was founded in 1980, through the initiative of philosopher
Ral Hernndez Garciadiego and his wife Gisela Herreras Guerra. From the
beginning it has conducted a program of regional development for poor villages
and families in the Mixteca Region to provide the most urgent basic needs such
as water, food and cooperative work.
To achieve its objectives, Alternativas is engaged in research and the recovery of
the traditional knowledge of the indigenous people, reviving and adapting it to
modern conditions. In particular Alternativas is studying the farming systems
which for 7500 years underpinned Mesoamerican agriculture, and methods of
managing water resources involving sophisticated irrigation systems which were
developed as far back as 750 BC. It is also promoting agricultural development
projects and the defense of endangered crops such as amaranth.

The Quali Cooperative Group

The Quali group of cooperatives is made up of over 1,000 native farming families
in the Mixteca Region.
The focus of Qualis activity is the workshop for transforming the bagged amaranth seeds brought by farming families after harvesting. The small plant makes
puffed or toasted whole grain, traditional flour and ingredients for beverages
and products such as cookies and snacks. The most traditional product is a sweet
food called Alegra, whose original recipe (toasted amaranth, caramelized cane
sugar, water and lemon) can be varied by adding raisins or chocolate chips.
Quali was awarded the Slow Food Award for the Defense of Biodiversity in 2002.

www.alternativas.org.mx - www.quali.com.mx
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The structure

University of Milan: DiSTAM and DISMA

The Department of Food Science and Microbiology (DiSTAM) of the University of
Milan is one of the largest Italian university research centers specializing in the food
sector. Its employs about 100 lecturers, researchers, technicians and administrative
staff.
DiSTAMs research activity covers various areas: food and process quality control;
optimization of food processes; the safety, microbiological and nutritional quality
of food. DiSTAM runs educational courses, in particular a degree course in Food
Science and Technology. With its over 10,000 books and around 300 periodicals, the
DiSTAM library is one of the most important scientific and technical libraries in Italy.
The project leaders, Prof. Mara Lucisano and Prof. M. Ambrogina Pagani, are involved in work on process optimization, particularly for cereals of national importance such as durum wheat and soft wheat. Studies have recently been undertaken on
minor cereals such as oats and buckwheat, with a focus on defining their role in
complex traditional and innovative foods.
The Department has instruments to determine protein and polysaccharide content,
and measure their rheological properties and ultrastructure. The DiSTAM also has
laboratory-scale equipment for optimizing the production of baked products.
Prof. Iametti from the Biochemistry section of the Department of Agri-Food
Molecular Sciences (DISMA) has also been involved in the project. This department
has advanced resources for studying the molecular properties of proteins found in
food, and systems for separating complex mixtures of proteins and peptides. The
DISMA has additionally developed a range of methods for identifying and characterizing food proteins of nutritional relevance, some of which are based on proteomic techniques. The work has included developing immunoenzymatic methods to
determine gluten content, which is essential information for products consumed by
wheat intolerant persons. This is a crucial issue in commercializing amaranth flour
and various amaranth products for the gluten sensitive market.

www.distam.unimi.it - www.disma.unimi.it
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Amaranth

In pre-Colombian times amaranth seeds were such an essential product for the local diet
that they became an integral
part of pagan rituals and
legends.

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Amaranth

A plant to be rediscovered

M. Lucisano, M. Mariotti, M.A. Pagani

Amaranth is a herbaceous annual plant belonging to the Amaranthaceae family,

originally from the Tehuacn region (Mexico) and parts of South America. In preColombian times amaranth seeds were such an essential product for the local diet
that they became an integral part of pagan rituals and legends. With the decline
of local cultures after Spanish colonization, amaranth fell into disuse or was even
prohibited. Nonetheless, some small communities continued to cultivate it and enabled it to survive and spread around the world. Over the centuries there is evidence of it being in Europe (from the 18th century as an ornamental plant), in Africa
(from the 19th century as a vegetable) and in Asia (from the 19th century as a cereal), even though it never achieved the importance in these places as in its countries
of origin. The publication in 1970 of the book Underexploited Tropical Plants with
Promising Economic Value (National Academy of Sciences, 1975) directed the
attention of the world scientific community towards amaranth because of its excellent nutritional composition and contributed to its revival. At present amaranth is
grown for commercial purposes in Mexico, South America, the United States, China,
Poland and Austria.
The genus Amaranthus includes about 60 species, but only 3 are considered good
seed producers: A. hypochondriacus, A. cruentus and A. caudatus. Amaranth seeds
are small (average diameter: 1.0-1.5 mm, weight of 1000 seeds: 0.6-1.2 g), lenticular in shape and with a color varying from creamy white to brown. The annular
embryo completely surrounds the amylaceous perisperm. From a nutritional standpoint, the seeds of A. hypochondriacus L. (the main variety grown in Mexico) contain 15-20% of lysine-rich protein (3.2-6.4 g/100g protein compared to 2.8-3.0
g/100g protein for wheat), 58-66% of starch, 6-9% of raw fiber and 6-8% of highly
unsaturated lipids. There are particularly high concentrations of calcium
(250mg/100g) and iron (15mg/100g) - 10 and 4 times higher respectively than those
found in wheat. The main component of the unsaponifiable fraction of the oil
extracted from the seeds is squalene (6-8%), a compound widely used in the cosmetic industry, with high amounts normally present in some marine animals. The small
size of the seeds and their particular morphology affect the methods used to transform amaranth; processes developed for other cereals cannot be directly transferred to this material without appropriate modification. Amaranth has many uses: it
is consumed in seed form, after cooking or as puffed cereal; it is ground and used
as flour; it can be puffed and ground to obtain pregelatinized flour. In Mexico in
particular, the seed is used as a puffed cereal and mixed with honey or molasses to
produce a traditional sweet product (Alegra). Amaranth does not contain gluten
and is therefore a raw material of interest for those suffering from celiac disease.

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Pagina 12

Amaranth

The happiness in the Mesoamerican civilization

Ral Hernndez Garciadiego y Gisela Herreras Guerra

Amaranth is a wonderful family of plants with a history dating back to the remote past of Mesoamerican civilization. The variety Amaranthus hypochondriacus
reaches two or three meters in height, has large green leaves and a magnificent
flower called panoja (panicle), which can be one meter and has intense crimson,
pink or bright green colors.
The plants popular name, alegra, derives from the feeling of happiness conveyed by the bright colors of a field of amaranth.
Botanists classify amaranth as a pseudocereal, since its main characteristics are
very similar to those of other cereals. However amaranth is distinctive in the way
it fixes carbon, which makes it very rich in protein (17 %) iron and vitamins, and
because it is gluten-free. It is thus a plant that qualifies as an excellent protein
food.
These properties led to it being the first plant germinated on a spaceship in 1985
and being selected by researchers due to its potential as a good food source for
future generations in the space era.
All parts of the amaranth plant are used: the germinated seeds and young leaves
can be eaten as vegetables. After flowering, small round seeds appear (1 1.5 mm
in diameter) which pop-up when heated, producing crunchy palomitas with a
pleasant delicate flavor.
The seeds can also be ground to produce flour which can be combined with flour
from other materials to make a basic ingredient for tortillas, flat and ordinary breads, pastries and many other products. The leaves of grown plants can be fried or
boiled, alternatively dried and transformed into spice to keep through winter.
Finally, amaranth is a high quality forage for feeding animals, and can be made
into compost for fertilizing the land.
Like corn, beans, peppers and pumpkin, amaranth originates from the Tehuacn
Valley, in Puebla state, situated in the Mixteca Region of south-east Mexico,
where it was domesticated for the first time between 5200 and 3400 BC, subsequently spreading to other regions of Mexico and the rest of the world.
After the discovery of America when missionary friars arrived together with
Spanish conquistadores and asked the local people what they lived on, the Indians
replied: Corn, beans and amaranth enable us to survive.
Amaranth - which in the Nhuatl language of the native Mexicas is called
huautl - was highly regarded by local people and celebrated in their magnificent religious festivals. Palomitas were used to produce a dough molded into
the form of gods of fertility, water and harvest. These figures were offered at
temples and sprinkled with the blood of human sacrifices before being distri-

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Amaranth

buted to the public to be eaten. The European missionaries prohibited the cultivation of amaranth and all the native religious rituals, with violations subject to
severe sanctions.
This ban led to the almost total disappearance of the plant, which only survived
in a few small isolated areas. Since that time the diet of Mexican people has
always been unbalanced: deprived of amaranth (which provided lysine, an essential amino acid for synthesizing human proteins), all generations after the
Conquest suffered from malnutrition.

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Pagina 14

The project

Bringing value to amaranth

The process of reviving production of amaranth, undertaken by Alternativas and
Quali since 1980, has been a great agricultural success. But the cooperatives have
had to cope with the challenge of commercializing their produce and identifying
innovative ways of establishing links with new consumers. This is important in
boosting and underpinning the whole proposed development model.
The research program The rediscovery of amaranth. Technical improvement of
amaranth to support agricultural development in semiarid areas of Mexico, financed by the Cariplo Foundation and the University of Milan, intends to explore two
different strategies for promoting amaranth. A study was firstly carried out into
the conventional use of flours in mixtures based on wheat, and then investigations were performed into the non-conventional use of amaranth for producing appetizing and nutritional foods in gluten-free formulations. This is of particular interest for consumers suffering from serious food intolerance. Using a gluten-free recipe in products for celiacs meant it was essential to address the issue
of traces of gluten in amaranth seeds, other raw materials and finished products.
The objective of the first phase of the project was to find and examine a range of
foods containing amaranth already on the market in Italy and other countries.
These products-mostly baked products and energy snacks (crackers, cookies, bars
with dried fruit and/or chocolate, plain biscuits with puffed cereals) - were cataloged according to type and amaranth content, assessed by a panel of expert
tasters and compared with different types of foods produced by Quali. At the
same time some commercial amaranth samples of various origin (Mexican and
Austrian) were characterized to evaluate various properties (including compositional characteristics and susceptibility towards rancidity) which might affect their
use as a foodstuff.
After this, trials were carried out with the help of a bakery workshop to partially
substitute wheat flour with amaranth flour in some traditional Italian sweet and
savory products. The various products were then assessed to see the effect of amaranth on their flavor and properties and to establish a threshold for optimum
integration. These products, which had 20-30% amaranth flour imported from
the Quali Cooperative Group added (a flour called Serina), had good sensory properties. Of particular interest were the savory formulations, such as breadsticks,
whose friability did not suffer from the addition of this pseudocereal.
In order to expand the range of foods containing amaranth, work was done at
the Department of Food Science and Microbiology (DiSTAM) to prepare amaranth
flour by grinding the seed and separating the brain by sifting. This flour was used
not only to make shortbread biscuits based on wheat flour but also niche products

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The project

The process of reviving production

of amaranth, undertaken by
Alternativas and Quali since 1980,
has been a great agricultural success.

Pagina 15

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The project

The project also looked at an

issue of great interest for the
Quali Cooperative Group, in
attempting to resolve the
serious problems of stability
which affect amaranth seeds.

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The project

typical of some Italian regions such as cornmeal biscuits and biscuits based on chestnut flour.
There have been various proposals for using amaranth in gluten-free products,
from simple preparations such as shortbread type biscuits-whose formulation can
be varied by adding drops of chocolate, coconut powder or other ingredientsthrough to more complex products such as ones based on sponge cake. This type
of baked product, characterized by physical and chemical rising (beating of the
mix with egg and addition of a chemical leavening agent), would seem ideal for
the production of leavened products which do not contain gluten proteins, and
cannot therefore withstand long leavening times. Excellent qualitative and sensory results were obtained by adding 30% amaranth flour to the formulation instead of wheat flour, together with the other ingredients such as sugar, egg mixture, milk proteins and fats.

Products containing amaranth prepared during the project

The project also looked at an issue of great interest for the Quali Cooperative
Group, a producer of puffed amaranth, in attempting to resolve the serious problems of stability which affect amaranth seeds due to rapid oxidation of the lipid
fraction. For this purpose, the effectiveness of various heat treatments on the stability of the puffed product were evaluated in close collaboration with the cooperative. Shelf-life (stability towards rancidity) of puffed seeds was prolonged by
increasing the heat exposure times sufficiently to completely inactivate the enzymes responsible for rancidity. It was noted that during commercialization it would
be essential to limit the contact that the product, puffed seed or derived flour had
with oxygen, by vacuum sealing and packaging so as to limit the exchange of gas
with the outside environment to the maximum extent possible.
A priority activity for the program was to train Quali staff so they could apply
essential knowledge to Mexican conditions, enabling them to implement systems
for quality management at the cooperative and better manage the creation of
both conventional and innovative new products.
In the first part of the project, project leaders from DiSTAM and the Slow Food
Foundation visited Alternativas and Quali to learn details of the transformation

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The project

processes used at the cooperative and to improve interaction between the various
organizations involved. Then technical staff from Quali visited university departments involved in the project and also various Italian producers-the Slow Food
Presidium for Mondov cornmeal biscuits and the Presidium for dried Calizzano
and Murialdo chestnuts, small artisan workshops and larger companies which still
have a strong focus on product quality. This enabled Mexican technical staff to see
a wide range of products derived from cereals and the processes used to make
them. The objective of these visits was to provide useful instruments which could
enable the product range to be expanded, satisfying consumer requirements both
within and outside Mexico.
Training activities also included quality control staff from the Quali Cooperative
Group spending time at Italian university laboratories so they could learn useful
analytical methods for evaluating the quality of finished products.

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Pagina 19

Woman from Mixteca Region

and the several traditional uses
of amaranth

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Recipes

Amaranth in the kitchen

Alegra
(recipe for 5 people)
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons melted molasses
1 cup Quali puffed amaranth
Preparation:
Mix puffed amaranth with warm molasses, stirring the mixture, then press it in a
mould. Once the mixture has taken the shape of the mould, take it out and cut it
in slices while it is still tepid. Eat it when it gets cold. One can also add peanuts to
taste.

Potatoes with amaranth

(recipe for 6 people)
Ingredients:
1/2 kilo tomatoes
1/2 small onion
1 clove of garlic
5 potatoes
6 tablespoons Quali amaranth flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation:
Boil potatoes and cut into cubes. Cook tomatoes and mix with the onion, garlic
and amaranth flour into a batter. Fry the batter, then leave fritters until solid and
crisp. Serve fritters with potatoes and season to taste.

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Pagina 21

Recipes

Atole with goyaba

(recipe for 5 people)
Ingredients:
1 cup Quali amaranth flour
10 ripe guavas
1 liter milk
2 cups water
Cane sugar to taste
Wash and blend guavas. Heat milk. While milk is heating, mix amaranth flour
with water then add mixture to milk, mixing continuously until dense consistency obtained. Remove mixture from heat and add blended guava. Sweeten to taste
with cane sugar

Atole of amaranth with milk

(recipe for 5 people)
1/2 cup Quali amaranth flour
1 liter milk
2 cups water
Cinnamon and cane sugar to taste
Cocoa, vanilla or molasses can be added
Heat milk with cinnamon. While milk is heating, mix amaranth flour with water
then add mixture to the milk, mixing continuously until a dense consistency obtained. Add cocoa, vanilla or molasses if desired. Remove from heat and sweeten to
taste with cane sugar.

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Pagina 22

Where to buy
Where is possible to buy the products based
on Quali amaranth?

To receive more information about Quali products

you can visit the virtual shop www.quali.com.mx or
send an email to info@quali.com.mx.

Where can the products be found in Mexico?

Quali has developed a home delivery service of its

products all over Mexico. The easiest way to receive
them is to purchase through the virtual shop or to
go directly to the Casa Quali shops of Mexico City
or Tehuacn:
Casa Quali Mexico City- Coyoacn
Presidente Venustiano Carranza No. 2
Colonia El Carmen
Delegacin Coyoacn
0052 (55) 56 59 85 09
0052 (55) 56 59 60 18
0052 (55) 55 54 58 87
Casa Quali Tehuacn
Manuel Pereyra Meja No. 264
Colonia Zaragoza
0052 (238) 371 25 68
0052 (238) 371 31 30
0052 (238) 382 16 40

Contacts

Alternativas y Procesos de Participacin Social A.C.

www.alternativas.org.mx
raulhernandez@alternativas.org.mx
Grupo Cooperativo Quali
www.quali.com.mx
info@quali.com.mx

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Pagina 23

Editing:
Andrea Amato, Ral Hernndez Garciadiego, Gisela Herreras Guerra,
Mara Lucisano, M. Ambrogina Pagani, Manuela Mariotti
Translations:
Ronnie Richards, Linda Kay
Photography:
Alternativas and Quali archives
Slow Food archives
Mara Lucisano - Distam archives
Graphic Design:
Claudia Saglietti
Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity
Official Headquarters
Accademia dei Georgofili
Piazzale degli Uffizi
50122 Firenze
Operational Headquarters
Slow Food
Via della Mendicit Istruita 14
12042 Bra (CN)
Tel. +39 0172 419701
fax +39 0172 419725

foundation@slowfood.com
www.slowfoodfoundation.com

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Pagina 24