Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Little did Clarabeasty realize what a firestorm she would start when she innocently posted a shawl
picture from the Shetland Museum on the usually quiet Heirloom Knitting Ravelry forum:
This innocent, offhand exchange would result in a mammoth project involving more than 30 people
and hundreds of hours of charting, swatching, proofing, writing, editing, and layout.
We started off rather simply with the center design, which we recognized from other shawls. The
pattern, called Spider Webs, Spiders, and Diamonds, was easy to chart from other sources. But
then Msleoknits presented an alternative center she had charted and used for another shawl. Her
design eliminated the garter stitch interruption in the spider webs, and many of us preferred her
design to the original one.
Similarly, Q-Knitter graphed the original edging, a variation of Mrs. Sutherland's Fine Lace—a
coincidence that made us all smile with delight. EdithCone subsequently presented a second,
more delicate pattern—a variation of Alpine Lace—and made a chart for it, as well.
Now we had charts for two centers and two edgings, and the project was not so simple anymore.
The border, clearly the charm point of the shawl, presented numerous problems. First of all, the
original shawl was certainly knitted in the traditional manner. The center and borders were worked
separately and sewn together. We all decided that we wanted to knit the piece in the modern way,
that is, knitting the center, then picking up the border stitches and knitting the rest of the shawl in
the round. And this method meant that we had to invert all the motifs in the border.
Piece by piece, each motif was charted and test-knitted. In many cases, we had to choose among
several alternatives. After a few weeks of experimentation and decisions, we had a semblance of a
genuine, workable border chart.
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The corners presented more difficult decisions. While we liked the original corners, we wanted
something special. KnitLab became our Guy in the Corner, working up the beautiful flower
sprays that integrate so well with the main border area. In what can only be called an astounding
feat of charting, M1K1 not only charted the complex corner, but turned part of it inside out so
less-experienced knitters could better see how the pattern fit together.
When all the parts were finally defined, LarasCreations spent weeks developing the calculations.
A few days after M1K1 and LarasCreations had mostly completed their assignments, fleegle
jokingly suggested adding a row above the bottom row of flowers:
fleegle: Not terribly radical. Although you would have to regraph the entire corner.
fleegle climbs into her nuclear blast bomb shelter and closes the hatch. Click.
larascreations: Well…….it does seem l ike it might look nicer with another 1-2 between?
What’s one more l ine?
……runs to keep fleegle company
fleegle: …fleegle yells through the blast door, informing Lara the price of admission are the new
calculations…
laceknitterlois: “NOOOOOOOOO”….fl ipper proofer runs & throws supercape over m1k1’s
computer screen.
“Don’t look, m1k1!”
Points pointy finger accusingly at larascreations & fleegle:
“Sure, go ahead and give m1k1 heart palpitations. And where does that leave us? Without our
Professor of Corner Chartology!”
Makes ultimate threat:
“Which means you 2 would be sentenced to take over corner charting duties. Knock it off, ya
hear?”
Leaves scene whistl ing. Just keeping the world safe, one knitter at a time.
As you might expect, the concept of an additional row was tabled forever, or so we thought. After
the final border swatch was finished, we all admitted that those two extra rows were really necessary
to separate the strawberries from the bottom swag. The chartologists recharted, the calculator
recalculated, and not so long after, we declared the charts and figures complete. Through it all,
gentle humor and mild tangents drifting into totally unrelated topics made all of us smile amid
our piles of graph paper.
In the meantime, we realized that we needed to think about how we were going to present the fin-
ished pattern, and we needed to bring the Shetland Museum into the loop.
The consensus was that the pattern should be placed into Creative Commons without copyright
protection, and it should be available as a free download on Ravelry, a highly popular site for knit-
ters. But we wanted to alert the Shetland Museum to the work and give them the files, so visitors
to their web site could download the pattern from there, as well. Perhaps the museum would be
able to use the pattern as a donation magnet.
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Here is the original letter written by edithcone to the Shetland Museum.
Novmber 6, 2009
Dear Ms. Christiansen,
I’m writing to you on behalf of a group of knitters who were very inspired by one of the shawls
in the Shetland Museum and Archives Photo Library. The shawl in question is found in the
photos numbered S00019 and S00024.
We are members of Ravelry, an online community of knitters and spinners from around the
world. Within Ravelry, our group, Heirloom Knitting, is particularly interested in fine Shetland
lace knitting. The shawl shown in the photos above was brought to the attention of the group,
and the design was so well-liked it was proposed that a collaborative effort be made to create a
chart of the original design and produce a pattern that could be downloaded free of charge
from Ravelry. After much debate, the shawl was named The Queen Susan shawl.
We would like to give mention to the Shetland Museum for housing the original photo that
led to the project. We also thought you might be interested in being able to offer the pattern for
download from the Shetland Museum site (thereby making it available to non-Ravelry members).
Is it possible you have any background information about this shawl, such as the name of the
knitter/designer, the approximate date it was made, the location, etc.? M. Sutherland is noted
as the photographer. Was the shawl likely made by a member of his family? Any information
you could give us about the shawl would be very helpful and appreciated.
Because this is such a large project, it will be some time before any of us finish knitting an
entire shawl. In light of this, we would be extremely grateful for the use of one of your photos
(with credit given to the Shetland Museum), so that we can show a completed shawl in the
pattern instructions.
There has been a tremendous co-operative effort within the group and at this point, most of
the elements of the shawl have been charted. There are few Shetland lace shawl patterns of this
complexity available today and none, as far was we know, that have been produced by knitters
from all over the globe. It is exciting to be involved in this project, one that we hope will make a
beautiful Shetland shawl design available to knitters everywhere and help continue the tradition
of Shetland lace knitting.
I hope you will entertain our request to use one of the photos mentioned at the beginning of
this letter. I look forward to your reply.
Yours Sincerely,
Denise Furukawa
(on behalf of the HK Ravelry group)
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And here is Dr. Carol Christiansen’s response:
November 13, 2009
Dear Denise,
Many thanks for your email. We were delighted and intrigued by how our photographic archive
has been put to use once again.
The photographer M. Sutherland was Magnus Sutherland, of Colvadale, Unst. He was related
to a number of expert lace spinners and knitters, some of whom are pictured in photograph R01400.
He took the photographs of the lace pieces in the late 1890s or 1900 – one scarf has the date 1899
knitted into it and it is likely that the other lace pieces were photographed at the same time.
This shawl is not part of our collection. However, we have several other shawls and stoles knitted
by the Sutherland women, one of which is on display. It has similar centre and border motifs to
the one you are knitting. Our records indicate that the border of the shawl on display was designed
by the brother of the Sutherland sisters, probably Magnus himself. It is possible, but by no means
certain, that Magnus was involved in the design of the shawl you are knitting.
The Sutherlands designed and traded patterns with one another, as you can see from Magnus’
photographs that many of the shawls bear similar motifs but used in different combinations. If
the designs were written down by the Sutherlands, which is unlikely, this information has not passed
to us. However, the reason we have these early photographs of Magnus’ is that they were passed on to
Ethel Henry, who donated them to the Museum. Ethel Henry was herself an expert knitter and
knitwear designer, working in both Fair Isle patterning and some lace – she designed wonderfully
stylish fine lace jumpers in the 1950s! We have two of Ethel’s lace notebooks, one in which lace
patterns are written out, and another where they are charted. Some of the motifs found in the
Sutherland laces are described in these notebooks. Unfortunately, Ethel stipulated that the note-
books not be published, and therefore, we can only offer them as study materials here in Shetland.
Have you completed the pattern for this complex shawl? If you are struggling with any parts of
it, please let me know and I will see how I can help.
I will meet with our IT person next week to discuss sending you the Magnus Sutherland photo-
graph for the completed pattern and how to attach Ravelry information/download to the
photographic archive website. I shall get back to you with this information in due course.
Best wishes,
Carol
(Dr. Carol Christiansen, Shetland Museum and Archives)
Having received an enthusiastic response from the Shetland Museum, we continued the cycle of
chart, knit, proof, write, edit, chart, proof for several months. Finally, we had all the material at
hand, and this pattern booklet could be assembled for what we hope is your visual and knitterly
delight.
It was decided to name the shawl The Queen Susan because several of the ringleaders bear that
name or have close relatives who do. We also felt that the name conferred a certain dignity on this
lovely piece.
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And finally, although fleegle wrote the introduction, EdithCone pointed out that fleegle had barely
mentioned her own contributions. So, I will lapse into the first-person at this point and say that I
was the initial instigator; graphed the original center and border; assigned the test knitting; wrote the
bulk of the text; designed and laid out this pattern booklet; and generally pushed, poked, and
prodded the participants where necessary to get the pattern assembled in a timely manner. I was
the hub around which activity whirled, but without the other contributors, the project would never
have come to fruition.
The Ravelry Heirloom Knitting Group now presents to you The Queen Susan Shetland Shawl and
hopes that you will derive as much pleasure in working it as we did in developing the pattern.
Sheiladeedee’s post sums up the project thusly:
I’m feel ing a l ittle weepy here. Think of it - a piece knitted before the turn of the last century,
designed by a close group of family/friends l iving in an isolated area, preserved in a photograph,
being recreated by a far-flung band brought together by technology and a love of this craft.
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The Materials
& Approximately 6000 Meters/6562 yards of 52/2 Phoenix (60% merino, 20% silk, 20% cashmere).
3 skeins @2600 meters (2843 yards) should safely cover the amount needed, with enough remaining
for another project from the 3rd partial skein. Phoenix is available from The Gossamer Web
(http://www.etsy.com/shop/TheGossamerWeb).
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NOTE Yarn estimation is a best guess (with margin for error), until the shawl has been knit by
at LEAST one person! If you wish to be more precise in estimating YOUR yardage, see the
Calculating Yarn Usage section.
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& Circular needles in several lengths (16–32"/40–80cm) size 1.75mm, or size for gauge you prefer
& Waste yarn in similar grist as Phoenix
& Stitch markers
& Tapestry needle for grafting
Skill level: Very Skilled/Expert. This pattern is not meant for those who wish to learn how to
knit a Shetland shawl. There is excellent published material readily available, both in print and on
the Web. We highly recommend Sharon Miller's Heirloom Knitting, Shetland Times (2006),
as the best learning tool available for Shetland shawl design and knitting.
Estimated Completed Size: As this pattern has never been knitted, we can only estimate that the
shawl is expected to be larger than 72" square.
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Shawl Construction
You’ll begin the Queen Susan by knitting the center as a flat square. When the center is completed,
you’ll pick up stitches on the two sides, consolidating them with the first provisional row and the
stitches remaining on the needle at the last row. The border is knitted circularly. Finally, the edging is
knitted flat, attaching it to the border.
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Color Decisions
One of the most pressing and entertaining parts of a new project is deciding what color to use.
Traditionally, such elaborate Shetland shawls were knitted in white or cream. But there is no rea-
son why you need to stick with tradition. SharraofSunhaven presents us with a color set of The
Queen Susan, so you can see what the shawl looks like in a variety of colors. We hope this display
helps you in your final decision.
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The Pattern
The Swatches
We recommend swatching using the center pattern charts. Assuming you are using 52/2 Phoenix
(or a comparable) yarn, we suggest starting with 1.75mm needles. The swatch consists of a few
repeats of the center patterns, surrounded by a border.
If you are undecided which center you prefer, you might want to swatch both. For ease in blocking,
each of the suggested swatches below includes garter edging. Cast on very loosely or use a provisional
cast-on—your choice.
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5. For the next 46 rows:
a. Odd # row: (K3, K2tog, YO) knit center chart (YO, K2tog, K3).
b. Even # row: K5, knit center chart, K5.
c. Knit two rows.
d. Knit 1, then (YO, K2tog) across.
e. Knit two rows.
6. Cast off loosely (or just run a thread through the stitches and secure it well for washing
and blocking).
To block, use the holes from the yarn overs :-)
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NOTE The samples are rather large swatch suggestions. However, these swatches will give
you a better feel for the yarn, your needles, the pattern, and so on, and are based on the overall
size of the pattern. (Lara says she isn’t a huge fan of swatching, but for this, yes. She would
rather swatch big than rip out the shawl itself!) If you prefer, feel free to work up a smaller sample.
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The number of stitches PER SIDE to begin the border is about 300, so keep this figure in mind if
you need to make adjustments. You should also keep in mind the elasticity of your yarn choice. As
an example, using 100% silk would mean you would want to significantly increase your number
of stitches and/or ridges, because silk isn’t as stretchy as wool and the finished piece many not
block square.
If you are unsure whether your yarn has enough elasticity to block into a nice square given the
ratios for the center to the border, you should knit this swatch as a test. The swatch contains about
5000 stitches, but knitting this extra swatch will prevent the grief of knitting the entire shawl, only
to discover that your yarn won’t block out square.
Add any patterning you like for the center and border, or none. The important point here is the
proportions. It is not a good idea to increase or decrease these numbers unless you are planning to
increase/decrease the proportions of your shawl. If you are planning to increase or decrease your
proportions, you should adjust the stitches for this swatch by approximately 10%.
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10. For the next 14 rounds, repeat these two rounds:
a. Purl into the front and back of the first stitch, purl to the last stitch before the marker,
purl into the front and back of it, and knit the corner stitch. Repeat for each side to
increase by 2 stitches per side.
b. Knit.
& Purl 1, YO, then (P2tog, YO) to the last stitch before the marker. Purl into the front and back of
the last stitch, and knit the corner stitch (49 stitches per side and one break round).
& Knit next round.
& Bind off loosely. Here is one such method:
1. Knit two stitches. *Return them to left needle and knit them together through the back
loop, k1. Repeat from *.
2. Wash and block.
Calculations
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Unravel your stitches and carefully measure the yarn used and divide by the number of stitches
you knit. This will give your yarn per stitch estimate. You can use inches or centimeters. We use
inches in the example. Calculate the total number of stitches for your chosen options. Multiply
your yarn-per-stitch number by your total-stitch number. Then add a MINIMUM of 10% for leeway.
EXAMPLE
With these numbers, you can also estimate percentages at different completion points and see if
you have used more yarn than expected and need to make adjustments. You can also use these
figures to estimate what sort of adjustments you might have to make. The example below takes the
stitch counts for each section, totals them, and uses that information to derive a percentage of stitches
(and therefore yarn usage) for each section.
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The Centers
Original Center
The Original Center is 12 stitches wide and 38 rows high. There are an additional 29 stitches for
the sides, for a total of 22 repeats.
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Calculations
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NOTE The original shawl pattern has 22 horizontal repeats. If you wish to have fewer stitches
to increase for the border, you can, instead, knit 24 or 25 repeats. If you increase to 24 repeats,
you should cast on 293 stitches and increase 7 stitches for the border (plus the corner). The
additional repeats add 11,952 stitches to the center. If you increase to 25 repeats , you should
cast on 305 stitches and DECREASE to match the border counts. Twenty-five repeats adds
17,928 stitches to the center. You will also need to modify the border preparation instructions
to match.
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Alternate Center
The Alternate Center is 14 stitches wide and 46 rows high. There are an additional 33 stitches for
the sides, for a total of 19 repeats.
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Calculations
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NOTE The original shawl pattern has 22 horizontal repeats. If you are using the alternate pattern
and wish to increase fewer stitches for the border, you can increase the repeats to 21. You
should cast on 299 stitches and increase 1 stitch for the border (plus 1 stitch for the corner).
The additional repeats add 14,280 stitches to the center. You will also need to modify the
border preparation instructions to match.
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Border Preparation
To prepare for knitting the border chart, you need to do the followiug:
1. Increase the first and last rows to 301 (300 for the border and 1 for the corner) by
adding stitches.
2. Pick up 301 stitches (300 for the border and 1 for the corner) from each side edge.
3. Knit break rows.
Pickup Row
You will knit across the first row; pick up stitches along the first side; knit across the provisional
cast-on stitches; and pick up the side stitches on the second side. After you have performed this
feat, you will be knitting the border in the round, purling every other row to maintain garter stitch.
Those who dislike purling have several alternatives. You can knit to the end of the row, turn, and
sew the border seam when you are finished. Or, you can join the yarn to the beginning of the row,
turn, and knit back. We will not go into any detail on these methods. Start a Ravelry thread if you
cannot find information on these techniques.
Fleegle admits that she never achieved passable results with either method—the seam or join always
stuck out a mile (or kilometer to our metric-using friends). However, such techniques would
probably pass the Galloping Horse Test, so it’s up to you, the knitter, to decide how persnickety
you want to be.
Original Center
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You have 269 stitches and 249 ridges. You need to increase or pick up 300 stitches for each side of
the border, plus 1 for the corner.
1. Knit across the first row thusly: K14, (M1, K8) 30 times, M1, K15 = 300 stitches.
2. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
3. Pick up and knit side stitches along the first edge. Note that the M1’s here represent knitting
twice into a ridge bump. Thus, the first line below means: Knit 1 stitch in the first 3 ridge
bumps, (knit 2 stitches into the next ridge bump, knit 1 stitch into next 3 ridge bumps) twice.
a. K3, (M1, K3) twice.
b. (M1, K5) 46 times.
c. M1, K4.
d. (M1, K3) twice.
4. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
5. Knit across the second row thusly: K14, (M1, K8) 30 times; M1, K15 = 300 stitches.
6. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
7. Pick up and knit side stitches along the second edge as follows:
a. K3 (M1, K3) twice.
b. (M1, K5) 46 times.
c. M1, K4.
d. (M1, K3) twice.
8. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place different marker to indicate the
beginning/end of the round. DO NOT TURN.
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Alternate Center
You have 271 stitches and 255 ridges. You need to increase or pick up 300 stitches for each side of
the border and 1 for the corner..
1. Knit across the first row thusly: K10, (M1, K9) 28 times; M1, K9 = 300 stitches.
2. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
3. Pick up and knit side stitches along the first edge. Note that the M1’s here represent knitting
twice into a ridge bump. Thus, the line below means: Knit 1 stitch in the first 17 ridge bumps,
(knit 2 stitches into the next ridge bump, knit 1 stitch into next 5 ridge bumps) 45 times,
knit 1 stitch into the last 13 ridge bumps.
a. K17, (M1, K5) 45 times, K13.
4. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
5. Knit across the second row thusly: K10, (M1, K9) 28 times; M1, K9 = 300 stitches.
6. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place marker. DO NOT TURN.
7. Pick up and knit side stitches along the second edge: K17 (M1, K5) 45 times, K13.
8. Place marker, pick up the corner stitch, and place different marker to indicate the
beginning/end of the round. DO NOT TURN.
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NOTE Lara says you can use another needle to pick up the bumps. Instead of picking up and
knitting the bars between the bumps to create new stitches, treat the bumps as stitches and
knit into the front and back of a bump for increases as you knit across the row.
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Break Rounds
1. Purl 1 row, checking your stitch counts to confirm 300 stitches per side, plus 1 for each corner.
2. (K2tog, YO) around the next row. Adjust your stitch count, if necessary, on this round.
3. Purl around.
4. Knit around.
And finally, for those who are interested, here are the stitch counts for the border preparation
rows you just completed:
300 stitches x 4 sides + 4 corner stitches = 1204 stitches for each round
1204 stitches per round x 5 rounds = 6020 stitches
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The border consists of 5 repeats of 60 stitches knitted for 164 rounds. However, there are 8 stitches
added every other row for the mitered corner, which is the equivalent of adding 1 stitch per side
on every row. Just start at the bottom and knit to the top. We include special instructions for the
corner areas.
Calculations
Having finally reached the border, you can inspect the stitch counts. Or not. Maybe save that fun
for after you’ve finished knitting all 164 rows.
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NOTE This sleight-of-hand is easier to knit than to explain. If you don’t understand the explanation
above, we suggest you try knitting Example 1 as a swatch. Knit the chart, but use the written-
out pattern rows shown below if you run into trouble.
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A symbol next to a row number indicates that this row has one fewer stitch per pattern repeat. As
above, this trick is needed to line up a pattern that has an even number of stitches with another
pattern that has an odd number of stitches. The only special symbol used in rows containing a
temporary decrease in stitch count is the z, which means “Ignore this square, because there isn’t a
stitch here.”
As you can see in row 3 of Example 2, there is an unmatched double decrease (the pink h symbol).
There are not enough YOs in this row to balance the decreases, so the stitch count for the pattern
repeat is reduced by 1. This situation persists through row 9. In row 10, an extra YO (shown in
lavender) creates the compensating increase.
EXAMPLE 2
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NOTE If you wish to knit these areas in the traditional Shetland manner, you should knit the
n as single yarnovers. It’s your choice. Swatch each way and decide for yourself.
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Special Instructions for the Corner Chart
The TQS border chart has a green square on each side of the row, which represents the corner
stitch, that is, the single knit stitch forming the diagonal boundary between the edges. While the
chart shows the corner stitch at both sides, only 1 stitch is actually knit at each of the four corners
on each round.
To clarify the knitting process, we include two swatch charts for the first 32 pattern rows of the
corner. The top chart shows how the corner stitch is represented in the body of the instructions.
The second chart shows how to work this stitch at each corner. The blue-filled stitches provide a
registration point between the graphs. The red line delineates the actual corner pattern from garter
stitch edges added for the purposes of a swatch, should you wish to swatch the chart.
Each side of the corner stitch is flanked by an increase stitch (highlighted in yellow) and is filled
with an o symbol (yarnover). While the sample increases were knitted with yarnovers, other
increases may be used if you would prefer a more solid fabric. For example, you could knit into
the front and back of the stitches on each side of the corner stitch, or increase by picking up the
bars between the corner stitch and the stitch either side of it.
As you begin working on the border, take care when moving from the border chart to the corner
chart. In the main border, the lowest point of the chevrons of lace holes and flowers is in row 35.
In the corner, the lines continue straight, almost meeting the diagonal at row 25. In addition, a
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few flowers below the bottom line of double lace holes are shifted a bit from their position in the
main border to make a more pleasing line. The flowers in rows 22 to 33 in the main border appear
in rows 19 to 33 in the corner chart and have been spread further apart. Also, the small motif
below the garland in the main border chart has been removed at the corners.
This plain area is a good place to work in your initials and the date of your work. A lace alphabet
sampler scarf pattern is available from Schoolhouse Press (http://www.schoolhousepress.com/
patterns.htm) and can be used to develop numbers for dates.
The symbol † you see in the border charts means optionally “knit through the back of the stitch.”
Knitting in the back of stitches will tighten the fabric above the yarnovers appearing two rows
below. If you feel the little flowers blend together too much, try knitting through the backs of the
stitches. Of course, knit a test swatch to see which works for you, given the yarn and needles that you
are using.
We should also note that you should feel free to change the little border flowers to suit your personal
tastes. For example, some people thought the bottom sprays should have smaller flowers at the
tips. Cut, paste, and swatch! And do post your chart to the Ravelry Heirloom Knitting forum so
we all can admire your design.
For example, in the swatch below, the boxed area shows smaller flowers at the tips of the sprays.
29
Edgings
Which edging you choose is personal preference, as is the decision to work either the Full or the
Reduced method. The Full method will give you a deeper edge with more pronounced points.
The Reduced method will give you a more stretched (elongated) appearance and a somewhat
reduced depth. The Reduced method has fewer stitches, and thus uses less yarn, than the Full method.
& Every 2 rows of edging will knit off the border stitches by either 1 or 2 stitches (as noted in
sections below). We will designate these stitches as single joins.
& A double join is 4 rows of edging, attached to the same border stitch twice.
& A triple join is 6 rows of edging, attached to the same border stitch three times.
& The reduced edging sections allow you to choose where to place the extra stitch decrease(s).
Either way, pick a consistent row or make the decreases at random intervals. These are not the
same as double joins; instead, they reduce 2 border stitches.
& Break the yarn and begin the edging cast-on necessary number of border stitches (see below)
after the End of Round marker.
Or
& Knit the necessary number of border stitches (see below) past the End of Round marker and then
cast on for the edging without breaking the yarn.
The edging begins either 7 or 8 stitches before or after the corner (depending on version chosen).
This number does not include the corner stitch.
You will knit the total side repeats for one side, then knit the corner, and repeat this sequence a
total of four times. So if you are knitting the Original edging, Full version, you could knit the cor-
ner stitch and then 8 stitches. Do your provisional cast-on for the edging and begin with 56 repeats.
30
Original Edging
This pattern consists of 16 rows, with 27–33 stitches per row. There are 471 stitches per repeat.
Cast on 27 stitches using any provisional cast-on. Here is a way of handling the graft at the beginning
and end of the edging:
1. When you are ready to begin the edging, choose a simple row as the ending row and knit it
first with waste yarn. Row 16 looks like a good candidate.
2. Knit the edging, and then knit last row again with waste yarn. Using a different color than
the first waste yarn will make step 3 easier.
3. Follow the path of the waste yarns with a blunt needle threaded with a nice, long length of
the working yarn. This process creates a new row 16 from the two rows of waste yarn.
If you wish to see the process of grafted edgings in detail, this blog post explains how to proceed:
http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2007/10/grafting-for-dummies-contnued-with.html
(The url is contains a spelling error. Blogger doesn’t let you fix those little glitches.)
Full
& Work 56 whole repeats, attaching 1 stitch per 2 edging rows worked. The corner ease uses
8 stitches on each side of the corner stitch (17 stitches per corner).
& Each corner contains 4 repeats, which is 64 rows and 32 joins in 17 stitches.
& 8 border stitches (single joins) are used up per edging repeat, plus 3.5 repeats per corner.
31
Work the edging thusly:
Calculations
Reduced
& Work 45 repeats, attaching 1 stitch per 2 rows for 6 stitches and 2 stitches. Knit the last edging
stitch together with two border stitches (K3tog) per two rows, twice per repeat (10 border stitches
per 16 rows).
& The corner ease uses 7 stitches on each side of the corner stitch (15 stitches per corner). Each corner
contains 3.5 repeats, which is 56 rows and 28 joins in 15 stitches.
& 10 border stitches are used up per edging repeat, plus 3 repeats for each corner.
Work thusly:
Calculations
32
Alternate Edging
This pattern consists of 12 rows, with 25–31 stitches per row. There are 336 stitches per repeat.
Cast on 26 stitches using any provisional cast-on. Here is a way of handling the graft at the beginning
and end of the edging:
1. When you are ready to begin the edging, choose a simple row as the ending row and knit it
first with waste yarn. Row 12 looks like a good candidate.
2. Knit the edging, and then knit last row again with waste yarn. Using a different color than the
first waste yarn will make step 3 easier.
3. Follow the path of the waste yarns with a blunt needle threaded with a nice, long length of
the working yarn.
If you wish to see the process of grafted edgings in detail, this blog post explains how to proceed:
http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2007/10/grafting-for-dummies-contnued-with.html
(The url is contains a spelling error. Blogger doesn’t let you fix those little glitches.)
Full
& Work 75 whole repeats, attaching 1 stitch per 2 edging rows worked. The corner ease uses
7 stitches on each side of the corner stitch (15 stitches per corner).
& Each corner uses 4.5 repeats, which is 54 rows and 27 joins in 15 stitches.
& 6 border stitches are used up per edging repeat, plus 4.5 repeats per corner.
33
Work thusly:
& 1 single join (2 rows, 1 stitch)
& 6 double joins (24 rows, 6 stitches)
& 1 single join (2 rows, 1 stitch)
& 6 double joins (24 rows, 6 stitches)
& 1 single join (2 rows, 1 stitch)
Calculations
Reduced
& Work 64 repeats, attaching 1 stitch per 2 rows for 5 stitches and 2 stitches. Knit the last edging
stitch together with 2 border stitches (k3tog) per 2 rows once per repeat (8 border stitches per
12 rows). The corner ease uses 8 stitches on each side of the corner stitch (17 stitches per corner).
& Each corner uses 4.5 repeats, which is 54 rows and 27 joins in 17 stitches.
& 7 border stitches are used up per edging repeat, plus 3.5 repeats per corner.
Work thusly:
& 3 single joins (6 rows, 3 stitches)
& 5 double joins (20 rows, 5 stitches)
& 1 single join (2 rows, 1 stitch)
& 5 double joins (20 rows, 5 stitches)
& 3 single joins (6 rows, 3 stitches)
Calculations
465 stitches per side – 17 stitches for the corners = 448 border stitches
448 border stitches / 7 joins = 64 edging repeats
64 repeats + 4.5 corner repeats = 68.5 edging repeats per side
68.5 edging repeats per side x 4 sides = 274 total edging repeats
274 repeats x 336 stitches per repeat = 92,064 stitches
34
D e c i s i o n Tr e e
This shawl presents you with many choices. Aside from color, you can choose between two centers and
two edgings. And the edgings may be either full or reduced. The table below shows your choices.
35
Credits
The Inspiration
Shetland Museum
For inspiring this shawl via its
magnificent photograph
Clarabeasty Craftholder
Vicki Leightizer Patricia Thompson
Ottawa, Canada Easley, SC, USA
For bringing us the Swatching
original picture
Librigeekgirl msleoknits
Roslyn Kos Kim Garnett
Sydney, NSW, Australia Apex, NC, USA
Cheering and admiring Swatching the original center,
and designing and swatching
the alternate center
Mawelucky tarrilynn
Jane Araújo Theresa Parker
Lawrence, KS, USA Sacramento, CA, USA
Swatching Swatching and admiring
Toffeesmum
Lou Sugg
Lampeter, Ceredigion,
Wales, UK
Swatching (and gasping
in awe and amazement)
36
The Menagerie
The Patterns
laceknitterlois Nuiknitting
Lois Woodthorp Betty E
Wausau, WI, USA Alameda, CA, USA
Swatching, proofing, and Admiration and cheering
keeping the world safe,
one knitter at a time
Threadbndr
Karla Hempstead-Denton
Topeka, KS, USA
Critical eyeball
and swatching
37
Humanoids
knitlab Q-Knitter
Kieran Foley Sue Sherman
Dublin, Ireland Newmarket, ON, Canada
Corner design, charting, Swatching, charting,
and swatching and calculations
LarasCreations Patocr
Lara Downey Patricia Osborne
(LarasCreations) Marion, Iowa, USA
Longmont, CO, USA Admiring in dumbfounded
Swatching, calculations, amazement
and instruction section
M1K1 silversheep
Jennifer Howlett Lisa Costa
Sydney, NSW, Australia Evanston, IL, USA
Corner charting, proofing, TQS Awe and Admiration
and swatching Society, charter member
MIZZRAMBO Winterhart
Captain of the pompom Laura Helton
and cheerleading squad St Louis, MO, USA
Swatching
The Flowers
Dizzyspinner sophiphi137
Swatching, worrying, and Margot Mousseau
swizzl ing Linköping, Sweden
Admiring and swatching
SharraOfSunhaven sheiladeedee
Verna Knapp Sheila D’Ammassa
Brookings, OR, USA East Providence, RI, USA
Color samples and swatching Swatching and cheering
wildly from the sidel ines
The Landscape
Seaglass
Susan Golden
West Hartford, CT, USA
Checking calculations
38
Colophon
DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Susan Glinert Stevens (Bookmakers)
COPY EDITOR: Laura Esterman
This pattern booklet has been placed in Creative Commons without copyright protection. Feel
free to use it as you wish. There are no restrictions whatsover on the contents, but do credit Ravelry’s
Heirloom Knitting group if you use the contents or refer to them in your own writings.
Design elements using the original photograph, such as the color swatches, page elements, and
cover image, were treated in Photoshop with permission of The Shetland Museum.
39
Original Center
Repeat entire chart 13 times.
knit
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
o yarnover
h slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over
Alternate Center
Repeat entire chart 11 times.
knit
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
o yarnover
h slip 1, knit 2 tog, pass slipped stitch over
Assemble border pages in the following manner:
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
164
163 h o o h o
162 h o o h o
161 k D o o h o o d k D o o h o
160 o d o o h o o h o d o o h o
159 k k o d o d k D o D o k k k o d o d k D o
158 k o d o h o d o D o k o d o h o d o
157 k o d D o k k k o d D o k o d D o k k k o d
156 o h o D o k o d D o k o d
155 o d o h o D o k o d D o k o d
154 o d od k D o
153 o d oh o d o
152 D ok k k o d D
151 o d Do k o d o h o
150 Do k o d o h o
149 o d o h o o d k D o
148 o o h o o h o d o
147 o d o d k D o D o k k k o d
146 o d o h o d o D o k o d
145 o d D o k k k o d D o k o d
144 D o k o d D o o d
143 o d D o k o d D o o d
142 D o o d
141 o d o d o h o
140 o o d o h o D o o d
139 o d o d k D o
138 o h o d o D o o d
137 o d D o k k k o d D o
136 D o k o d D o o d
135 o d D o k o d D o o d
134 o d D o o d
133 o d o d o h o
132 o o d D o k o d D o o d
131 D o k k k o d
k knit
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
n single or double yarnover (see text)
† knit in the back of the stitch
z Ignore me!
o h o D o D o o d o d o h o
o h o D o D o o d o h o
o d k D o D o o d o d k D o
o h o d o o h o d o
D o k k k o d D o o d D o k k k o d
D o k o d D o k o d
D o k o d D o o d D o k o d
D o o d
o h o D o D o o d o d o h o
D o k o d D o D o o d D o k o d
D o k k k o d D o k k k o d
D D o d D
: : p :
n d D n d D o o d n d
: p p
D n d D o o d D o o d
: p p p
D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d
: p p p p
D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d
o h o : p p p p p o h o
o h o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d o h o
d k D o : p p p p o d k D o
h o d o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d o h o d o
k k k o d : p p p D o k k k o
o k o d D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o k o d
o k o d o h o : p p o h o D o k o d
o h o D n d D o o d D o o d o h o
o d k D o : p o d k D o
o h o d o D n d D o o d o h o d o o
o D o k k k o d : D o k k k o d o d
D o D o k o d n d D o k o d o d
D o D o k o d o h o o h o D o k o d o d
D o o h o o h o o d D
p D o o d k D o o d k D o o d p
o d D o o h o d o o h o d o o d D o o
p D o D o k k k o d D o k k k o d o d p
D o o d D o D o k o d D o k o d o d D o o d
p D o D o k o d o h o D o k o d o d p
D o o d D o o h o o d D o o d
p D o o d k D o o d p
D o o d D o o h o d o o d D o o d
o h o p D o D o k k k o d o d p o h o
o h o D o o d D o D o k o d o d D o o d o h o
d k D o p D o D o k o d o d p o d k D o
h o d o D o o d D o o d D o o d o h o d o
k k k o d p D o o d p D o k k k o
o k o d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o k o d
o k o d o h o p D o o d p o h o D o k o d
o h o D o o d D o o d o h o
o d k D o p p o d k D o
o h o d o D o o d d D o o d o h o d o o
o D o k k k o d p : D o k k k o d o d
D o D o k o d D o o d D n d D o k o d o d
D o D o D o
D o k o d D o k o d D o k o d
D o D o D o
D o k o d D o k o d D o k o d
D o k k k o d D o k k k o d D o k k k o d
o h o o h o o h o
o d k k k D o o d k k k D o o d k k k D o
o d k D o o d k D o o d k D o
o h o o h o o h o
d o d o d o
50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11
Border Repeat
1 2
3 4
5 6
Border Left Side
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89
164 164
163 163 o o h o
162 162 o h o o h o o h o o h o o h o
161 161 o o d k D o o d k D o o d k D o o h o o d k D o
160 160 o h o d o o h o d o o h o d o o h o o d k D o o h o o h o d o
159 159 o D o k k k o d D o k k k o d D o k k k o d o h o o h o d o o h o D o k k k o d
158 158 D o k o d D o k o d D o k o d o d k D o D o k k k o d o d k D o D o k o d
157 157 o o h o o h o d o D o k o d o h o d o D o k o d
156 156 o h o o d k D o o h o D o k k k o d D o k o d D o k k k o d o h o
155 155 o o h o o d k D o o h o d o o h o D o k o d D o k o d o h o D o o
154 154 D o k o d o h o d o D o k k k o d od k D o D o k o d D o k o d o d k D o D o o d
153 153 o D o k k k o d D o k o d oh o d o o h o d o D o o d
152 152 D D o k o d D ok k k o d D o k k k o d
151 151 o : Do k o d D o k o d D o o d
150 150 n d † † o h o Do k o d o h o D o k o d
149 149 o o d k D o o h o o h o o h o D o o d
148 148 o h o o h o d o o h o o d k D o o h o D o
147 147 o D o k o d D o k k k o d o d k D o o h o d o o d k D o D o o
146 146 D o k k k o d D o k o d o h o d o D o k k k o d o h o d o D o o d
145 145 o D o k k k o d D o k o d D o k k k o d D o o d
144 144 D o k o d D o k o d D o k o d
143 143 o o h o o h o D o k o d D o o d D o k o d D o o d
142 142 D o k o d o d k D o D o o d
141 141 o o h o d o o h o D o o d o h o D o D o o d
140 140 D o k k k o d o h o o h o D o D o o
139 139 o D D o k o d o d k D o D o o d o d k D o D o o d
138 138 : † † o h o d o o h o d o
137 137 o n d D o k k k o d D o o d D o k k k o d D o o d
136 136 o h o D o k o d D o D o k o d
135 135 o D o k o d D o k o d D o o d D o k o d D o o d
134 134 D o k k k o d D o o d D o
133 133 o o h o D o o d o h o D o D o o d o
132 132 o h o D o k o d D o D o o d
131 131 o † † o h o D o o d D o k k k o d
130 130 o d k D o o h o D o o d
129 129 o o h o o h o d o D o o d
128 128 D o k o d D o k k k o d D o D o o d
127 127 o D o k k k o d D o k o d D o
126 126 D o k o d D o k o d D o o d
125 125 o D D o k k k o d D o
124 124 :
123 123 o n d o h o o h o D D o d
122 122 o h o o h o : : p
121 121 o o d k D o o d k D o n d D n d D o o d
120 120 o h o d o o h o o h o d o o h o : p p
119 119 o D o k k k o d o h o D o k k k o d o h o D n d D o o d D o o d
118 118 D o k o d o d k D o D o k o d o d k D o : p p
117 117 o D o k o d o h o d o D o k o d o h o d o D n d D o o d D o o d D o
116 116 D o k k k o d D o k k k o d : p p p
115 115 o † D o k o d D o k o d D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d
114 114 D o k o d D o k o d : p p p
113 113 o o h o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o
112 112 D o k k k o d o h o : p p p
111 111 o D o k o d o h o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d
110 110 o d k D o : p p
109 109 o D o h o d o D n d D o o d D o o d D o
108 108 : D o k k k o d o h o : p p
107 107 o n d D o k o d o h o D n d D o o d D o o d
106 106 D o k o d o d k D o : p
105 105 o o h o d o o h o D n d D o o d
104 104 o h o D o k k k o d o h o :
103 103 o o h o o h o D o k o d o d k D o n d
102 102 o h o o d k D o D o k o d o h o d o o
101 101 o o d k D o o h o d o D o k k k o d o
100 100 o h o d o D o k k k o d D o k o d o d
k knit
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
n single or double yarnover (see text)
† knit in the back of the stitch
z Ignore me!
o h
o h
o h o o d k
o h o o h o
o d k D o D o k k
o h o d o D o k
D o k k k o d D o k
o h o D o k o d
d o h o D o k o d
o d k D o
o h o d o
D o k k k o d
D o k o d o h
D o k o d o h
o h o o d k
o h o o h o
d o d k D o D o k k
o h o d o D o k
D o k k k o d D o k
D o k o d D o
D o k o d D o
D o
o d o h o
d o h o D o
o d k D o
o h o d o D o
D o k k k o d D o
D o k o d D o
D o k o d D o
o d D o
d o h o
D o k o d D o
D o k k k o d
o h o D o
D o
D o
D o k o d o h
D o k k k o d o h
o d k
D o h o
: D o k k
n d D o k
o h o D o k
o h o
p o d k D o
o d o h o d o
p D o k k k o d
D o o d D o k o d
p p o h o D o k o d
o D
o d D o o d o h o o d z
p o d k D o o d z
D o o d o h o d o o d z
p D o k k k o d o d z
o d D o k o d o d D o z
o h o D o k o d o d p z
o h o o d D o o d z
o d k D o o d p
o h o d o o d D o o d
D o k k k o d o d p o h
D o k o d o d D o o d o h
h o D o k o d o d p o d k
h o o d D o o d o h o
k D o o d p D o k k
o d o o d D o o d D o k
k k o d o d p o h o D o k
k o d o d D o o d o h o
k o d o d p o d k D o
o d D o o d o h o d o
o d p D o k k k o d
o d D o o d D o k o d
o d o o d D o o d D o k
k k o d o d p o h o D o k
k o d o d D o o d o h o
k o d o d p o d k D o
o d D o o d o h o d o
o d p D o k k k o d
o d D o o d D o k o d
o d p o h o D o k o d
o D
o d D o o d o h o o d z
d p o d k D o o d z
D o o d o h o d o o d z
p D o k k k o d o d z
D o o d D o k o d o d D o z
p o h o D o k o d o d p z
o d o h o o d D o o d z
o d k D o o d p
o h o d o o d D o o d
D o k k k o d o d p o h
D o k o d o d D o o d o h
h o D o k o d o d p o d k
h o o d D o o d o h o
k D o o d p D o k k
o d o o d D o o d D o k
k k o d o d p o h o D o k
k o d o d D o o d o h o
k o d o d p o d k D o
o d D o o d o h o d o
o d p D o k k k o d
o d D o o d D o k o d
o d p o h o D o k o d o D
o d D o o d o h o o d z
d p o d k D o o d z
D o o d o h o d o o d z
p D o k k k o d o d z
D o o d D o k o d o d D o z
p o h o D o k o d o d p z
o d o h o o d D o o d z
o d k D o o d p
o h o d o o d D o o d o h
D o k k k o d o d p o h
D o k o d o d D o o d o d k
h o D o k o d o d p o h o
h o o d D o o d D o k k
k D o o d p D o k
o d o o d D o o d D o k
k k o d o d p o h o
k o d o d D o o d o h o
k o d o d p o d k D o
o d D o o d o h o d o
o d p D o k k k o d
o d D o o d D o k o d
o d p D o k o d
o d D o o d o h o
d p o h o
D o o d o d k D o
p o h o d o
D o o d D o k k k o d
p D o k o d
o d D o k o d
o h o
o h o
o d k D o
o h o d o
D o k k k o d
D o k o d
D o k o d
o h o d o
o h o
o d k D o D o k
o h o d o
D o k k k o d D o k k
o D o k o d
o D o k o d o h
D o
d o o D k k
o h o k k
D o D o
D o k o d D o k
D o D o
D o k o d D o k
D o k k k o d D o k k
o h o o h
o d k k k D o o d k k
o d k D o o d k
o h o o h
d o d o
1 2
3 4
5 6
Border Right Side
114 113 112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 104 103 102 101 100 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55
h o o h o
h o o h o o
k D o o h o o d k D o o
o d o o h o o h o d o o h o o d
k k o d o d k D o D o k k k o d o h o o h
k o d o h o d o D o k o d o d k D o D o k
k o d D o k k k o d D o k o d o h o d o D o
D o k o d o h o o h o D o k k k o d D o
D o k o d o h o D o o d o h o D o k o d
o d k D o D o o d o d k D o D o k o d
o h o d o D o o d o h o d o
D o k k k o d D o k k k o d
h o D o k o d D o o d D o k o d
h o D o k o d D o k o d o
k D o o h o D o o d o h o o
o d o o h o D o o h o o d
k k o d o d k D o D o o d o d k D o o h
k o d o h o d o D o o d o h o d o D o k
k o d D o k k k o d D o o d D o k k k o d D o
o d D o k o d D o k o d D o
o d D o k o d D o o d D o k o d D o
o d D o
o h o D o D o o d o d o h o D o
o d o h o D o D o o d o h o
o d k D o D o o d o d k D o D o
o d o h o d o o h o d o
o D o k k k o d D o o d D o k k k o d D o
o d D o k o d D o k o d D
o d D o k o d D o o d D o k o d D o
o d D o o d D o
o h o D o D o o d o d o h o D o
o d D o k o d D o D o o d D o k o d
D o k k k o d D o k k k o d D o
o d o h o D o o d o h o
o D o
D o o d D
D o D o
h o D o k o d D o o d D o k o d
h o D o k k k o d D o D o k k k o d
k D o
o d o D D o d D o
k k o d : : p : o
k o d n d D n d D o o d n d o d
k o d o h o : p p o h o o h
o h o D n d D o o d D o o d o h o D o k
o d k D o : p p p o d k D o D o
o h o d o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d o h o d o D o
D o k k k o d : p p p p D o k k k o d
D o k o d D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o k o d
D o D o k o d o h o : p p p p p D o k o d
z D o o h o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d
z D o o d k D o : p p p p
z D o o h o d o D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d D o o d
z p D o D o k k k o d : p p p
z o d D o D o k o d D n d D o o d D o o d D o o d
z p D o D o k o d o h o : p p o h o
z h o o d D o o h o D n d D o o d D o o d o h o
p D o o d k D o : p o d k D o
D o o d D o o h o d o D n d D o o d o h o o h o d o
h o p D o D o k k k o d : o h o D o k k k o d o h
h o D o o d D o D o k o d n d o d k D o D o k o d o h
k D o p D o D o k o d o h o o h o d o D o k o d o d k
o d o D o o d D o o h o D o k k k o d o h o
k k o d p D o o d k D o D o k o d D o k k
k knit
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
n single or double yarnover (see text)
† knit in the back of the stitch
z Ignore me!
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
n single or double yarnover (see text)S
Actual Corner Swatch
This corner swatch chart shows the rows as actually written, that is, right corner, border, left corner.
32 o d p p D o 32 32
31 o o d D o o d D o o d D o o 31 31
30 o d p p D o 30 30
29 o o d D o o d BORDER D o o d D o o 29 29
28 p p 28 28
27 o D o o d D o o d o 27 27
26 26 26
25 o o h o o h o o 25 25
24 o h o o h o 24 24
23 o o d k D o o d k D o o 23 23
22 o h o d o o h o d o 22 22
21 o D o k k k o d D o k k k o d o 21 21
20 D o k o d D o k o d 20 20
19 o D o k o d D o k o d o 19 19
18 18 18
17 o o 17 17
16 16 16
15 o o 15 15
14 14 14
13 o o 13 13
12 12 12
11 o o 11 11
10 10 10
9 o o 9 9
8 8 8
7 o o 7 7
6 6 6
5 o o 5 5
3 4 4 4
3 3 o o 3 3
2 2 2
1 o o 1 1
k knit
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
n single or double yarnover (see text)
† knit in the back of the stitch
z Ignore me!
Inverted Corner Swatch
This corner swatch chart shows the rows without the intervening border section.
For swatch, cast on 23 stitches. Work 2 plain rows.
Then begin increases around the center stitch, as in row 1.
inc inc
34
33
p D o o d p 32
D o o d D o o o o d D o o d 31
p D o o d p 30
D o o d D o o o o d D o o d 29
p p 28
D o o d o o D o o d 27
26
o h o o o o h o 25
o h o o h o 24
o d k D o o o o d k D o 23
o h o d o o h o d o 22
D o k k k o d o o D o k k k o d 21
D o k o d D o k o d 20
D o k o d o o D o k o d 19
18
o o 17
16
o o 15
14
o o 13
12
o o 11
10
o o 9
8
o o 7
6
o o 5
4
o o 3
2
o o 1
23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
k knit
p purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
n single or double yarnover (see text)
† knit in the back of the stitch
z Ignore me!
Original Edging
16 o d o d p o d 10 o h
o d o d D o o d o d 9 D o 15
14 o d o d p o d 12 o h
o o d D o o d D o 12 D o 13
12 D o D o p D o 13 o h
d D o D o D o o d D o 10 D o 11
10 d p D o D o p D o 11 o h
d D o o d D o D o D o o d D o 8 D o 9
8 d p p D o D o p D o 9 o h
d D o o d D o o d D o D o D o o d D o 6 D o 7
6 d p p p D o D o p D o 7 o h
o o d D o o d D o o d o d o d D o o d o d 3 D o 5
4 p p o d o d p o d 6 o h
: o o d D o o d o d o d D o o d o d 5 D o 3
2 p o d o d p o d 8 o h
: o o d o d o d D o o d o d 7 D o 1
33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
/ purl
d knit 2 together
D slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 1, purl 1 in same stitch
j yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 tog (1 stitch from the shawl, 1 stitch from the edging), pass slipped stitch over
Alternate Edging
12 12 k k d o d o d : k k k o d o d k k k k o h o k k k h
k k d o d o d D o d k o d o d k k k D o k k k o d k k 11
10 10 k k d o d o d : k k k o d o d k k k k k D o k o d k k h
k k d o d o d D o d k o d o h o k k k k k k k o d k k k k 9
8 8 k k d o d o d : k k k o d o d k D o k k k k k o h o k k k h
k k k o D o k D o d D o D o k k k k k o d k D o k k k o d k k 7
6 6 k k k o D o k k k : D o D o k k k o d k k k D o k o d k k h
k k k o D o k D o d D o D o k o d k k k k k k o d k k k k 5
4 4 k k k o D o k k k : D o D o k k k k k k k o h o k k k h
k k k o D o k D o d D o D o k k k k D o k k k o d k k 3
2 2 k k k o D o k k k : D o D o k k k k D o k o d k k h
k k d o d o d D o d k o d o d k k k k o d k k k k 1
31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
k knit
d knit 2 together
D knit 1, slip 1, pass slipped stitch over
: knit 2, purl 2 in same stitch
o yarnover
v slip 1, knit 2 tog (1 stitch from the shawl, 1 stitch from the edging), pass slipped stitch over