Knit Processing – SDC Concept

Ashok Athalye & Vinay Jadhav

Technical Service, Atul Ltd (Colors Division), Atul – 396 020, Valsad, Gujarat, India

The textile wet processing industry for apparel applications is considered to comprise of three main segments viz,
yarn dyeing (including Denim yarn), piece dyeing (including garments) & the Knit dyeing. Recent years have
witnessed highest growth in knit or commonly called hosiery processing. In India , this knit processing industry is
spread across the country from north to south & east to west.

The Indian textile industry can be broadly classified into 2 groups based on working condition,

1. Organized sector- units are well equipped with facilities like water softening (Ion exchange), TDS control
(Reverse Osmosis), effluent treatment facility (water discharge/ reuse of treated water), modern machinery with
auto control facilities having very high productivity & skilled work force. These units aim at value addition to fulfill
stringent global customer requirements.

2. Unorganized sector- units lacking above facilities & using conventional machinery, compromising on quality
over cost. This sector mainly aims at producing economical products for low end sector

The common wet processing problems associated are generally considered to be due to 3 M’s (Man- Machine-
Method) i.e. manual errors, mechanical limitations & inappropriate processing methods.

Apart from these there are some geographical or regional issues related to the two basic ingredients

i. The substrate – Variation in cotton fiber cultivated in various regions across the country, in terms of
impurities like alkali earth & heavy metal ion content,
ii. Water - its availability, purity & discharge/ recycling.
SDC (Symptoms, Diagnosis & Curing ) Concept
The problems faced during Cotton knit wet processing in these two sectors vary widely owing to the above
mentioned reasons like water, fiber sources & processing conditions. However, in order to overcome/ minimize
the processing related problems it is essential to first understand the Symptoms (problems), Diagnose (ascertain
the probable cause) & Cure (adopting remedial measure).

Given below are some general & common problems encountered in Knit processing & the effectiveness of the
‘SDC’ approach to overcome/minimize these issues. However, it is always advisable to use adequate,
appropriate & optimum quality / quantity of Dyestuffs & auxiliary chemicals as per the suppliers recommendations.

Pretreatment processes

SYMPTOM / DIAGNOSIS / POSSIBLE CAUSE CURE / POSSIBLE REMEDY

PROBLEM

Fabric - Overloading of fabric / uneven tube
entanglements length
- Improper (low or very high) jet
pressure, reduced nozzle aperture
- Foaming due to detergent, emulsifier,
rapid decomposition of Peroxide,
lubricant used during knitting or other
surfactant chemicals causing foaming.
- Adjust the jet pressure properly &
calculate the weight of fabric to be loaded
based on rope length/ diameter/ gsm of
fabric
- Too high jet pressure also leads to
entanglement at the reel & accumulation of
fabric at rear side of the machine.
- Use of surfactants like Tulachem
Hyperwet RW a very low foaming
detergent having optimum adsorption &

Oil marks on fabric - Inadequate emulsification/ removal of
Knitting oil.
- Improper removal of Silicone oil from
Elastane/ lycra blends
Pin hole damage - Oxidation of the knitting oil/lubricant on
the fabric stored for a long duration.
-Presence of sharp metallic part in
some parts of machine
- Presence of heavy metal ions in
peroxide bath
- Presence of heavy metal ions [Fe/ Cu]
in fabric, alkali.
Ballooning of - pieces are densely sewn & structure
tubular knits of of knit pattern is tight, the entrapped air
absorption for quick wetting, emulsification
& detergency for thorough oil/soil removal
& rewetting absorbency .
- Use of a non foaming alkali stable anti-
crease lubricant like Tulachem Texlube
AC
- Controlled heating during peroxide
dosing & adequate organo-inorganic
bleach controller like Tulachem
Sequastab EP
-Addition of a deareating/ penetrating
agent like Tulachem Texflow DAP.
- Use of a strong emulsifier for knitting oil
removal like Tulachem Wettex SRL
- After every process, if possible check
filter & clean it.
- Check presence of any sharp object in
machine
- Provide magnetic filters in water/ steam
line
- Use demineraliser for complexing of
heavy metal ions (Tulachem Demin PTP)
in pretreatment bath to avoid catalytic
decomposition of Peroxide during
bleaching.
- cutting vertical slit of 10-15 cm near the
joint of two tubes enables the air to escape
heavy textured can not go out & results in ballooning.
fabrics
Poor absorbency of -Alakli earth metal ions like Ca 2+
fabrics after present in fabric /water acts as emulsion
scouring & breaker, prevents removal of oil/fats &
bleaching results in poor peroxide stability.
- Use of improper wetting agent having
limited alkali stability resulting in
ineffective saponification & detergency.
-Also due to poor detergency &
dispersing effects paraffin wax can not
be removed adequately
Tendering of fabric -The presence of iron on fabric causes
during bleaching catalytic decomposition of peroxide
causing Oxycellulose formation & therby
localized tendering.
Lower dye yield & -Presence of residual [left over]
tone change in peroxide on the fabric, leads to
some dyed shades oxidative decomposition of Reactive
dyes.
- Presence of residual & core alkali
-The use of larger diameter nozzle also
minimizes the problem
.
-De-mineralization treatment with
Tulachem Demin PTP takes care of
metal ions hinderance.
-Use of alkali stable wetting agent like
Tulachem Hyperwet RW for thorough
wetting & emulsification of non
saponifiable oils & improved rewetting
absorbency.
-Addition of Tulachem Demin PTP in
peroxide bleach bath.
- One step demineralization-scouring
treatment can overcome the problem.
- Peroxide bleach with stabilizer having
anti-catalytic effects like Tulachem
Sequastab EP
- Use of Enzymatic (catalase) peroxide
killer like Tulachem Pero K.
- Use of a powerful core alkali neutralizer
like Tulachem Demin C.
- Ensure controlled dosing of alkali [Linear
 inside the fibre after scouring treatment
causing hydrolysis of alkali sensitive
Reactive dyes.
- Mild alkalinity of the water due to
Bicarbonate (softened water).
Deep colored -Localized swelling of un-mercerized
patches & creases cotton
-Drying up of improperly neutralized
alkali after mercerization
- Damage of cellulose during fast
transport through the jet nozzle
Variation / - Presence of alkaline earth/ heavy
inconsistency in metal ions causing uncontrolled
basic whiteness decomposition of peroxide , resulting in
after pretreatment inadequate bleaching.
Light color - Improper pretreatment & inadequate
reserved portions removal of the silicon oil from fabric
on cotton/ Elastane
blends
Some Processing Sequences for Cotton Knit on high turbulence low liquor ratio Soft flow machines
dosing] during dyeing stage.
- Ensure optimum pH range of 10.6 - 11.2
for optimum color yield.
- Use of a suitable alkaline pH controller
like Tulachem Ecobase ALKB. To ensure
optimum dye bath pH.
- Loading of fabric after setting bath &
nozzle with Tulachem Hyperwet RW &
Tulachem Sequastab EP
- Use of efficient organo –inorganic
stabilizer like Tulachem Sequastab EP
- Demineralization step is use full for
consistency
- To overcome silicone oil spot on fabric
needs to use strong emulsifier like
Tulachem Wettex SRL
- Pretreatment sequence adopted like,
Relaxation- heat setting-demineralization-
scouring/bleaching
°C
100
90 30 10 LR: 1: 5-10
80 A TULACHEM HYPERWET RW 0.5-0.7 g/l
70 10 TULACHEM SEQUASTAB EP 0.3-0.5 g/l
5 15
TULACHEM TEXLUBE AC 0.5-1.0 g/l
60
C B Caustic Flakes 1.5-3.0 g/l
50 Drain
Drain
40 C Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 2.0-3.0 g/l
B
30
A D E D Acetic acid 0.5-1.0 g/l
20
TULACHEM DEMIN C 0.5 g/l
10
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 E TULACHEM PERO K 0.3 0.5 g/l
mi 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
n.

Cotton – Elastane Knit Blend

°C
100
30 TULACHEM WETTEX SRL 3.0-5.0 g/l
90
10
TULACHEM TWXLUBE PEA 2.0-5.0 g/l
80 TULACHEM DEMIN PTP 2.0-4.0 g/l
70 20 RELAX FOR 2-3 Hrs
5 15 HEAT SET AT195ºC FOR 45 SECOND.
60 D LR: 1: 8-12
'
A TULACHEM HYPERWET RW 0.3-0.5 g/l
50
C Drain Drai TULACHEM SEQUASTAB EP 0.3-0.5 g/l
40 n F B TULACHEM HYPERWET RW 0.5-0.7 g/l
Drai B TULACHEM SEQUASTAB EP 0 .1-0.5g/l
30 TULACHEM TEXLUBE AC 0.5-1.0 g/l
n E
20
A C Caustic Flakes 1.5-2.0 g/l
D Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 2.0-3.0 g/l
10 E Acetic acid 0.5-1.0 g/l
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 TULACHEM DEMIN C 0.3-0.5 g/l
mi 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 F TULACHEM PERO K 0.3-0.5 g/l
n.
Coloration Process
SYMPTOM / DIAGNOSIS / POSSIBLE CAUSE
PROBLEM
Rope to rope shade - Uneven rope length
variation - Worn out Teflon rolls on tube of
winches causes different reel speed
affecting effective cycle time of tube
- Varying GSM from rope to rope.
- rapid/ varying rate of temp rise during
dye & electrolyte dosing.
Uneven dyeing in -It can be due to fast addition of dyes/
rope chemicals [ alkali- caustic/ soda ash]
Dyes spots - Improper dissolution of dyestuff
- Inadequate salt solubility of the
dyestuff
CURE / POSSIBLE REMEDY
-To load fabric with same length in all tube
- Replace worn out Teflon rolls with new
one & avoid use of economical solvent
containing detergent/ lubricants
- Use of Tulachem Texflow LDP for
controlled dye exhaustion/ strike rate &
Tulachem Texcell DSA for improved dye
bath conditioning.
- Load fabric of same GSM in single batch
-Check dyestuff dissolution is proper &
uniform dosing in machines.
- Controlled rope speed & chamber
loading
-Use of suitable leveling agent like
Tulachem Texflow LARD for improved
dye migration.
-Ensure proper dissolution of dyestuff &
filter through nylon bolting cloth or
stainless steel strainer
 - High alkali sensitivity/ low alkali
stability.
- metal ion sensitivity causing
precipitation of dye-metal complex.
Un level dyeing in -Uneven pressure head in tubes,
one rope wherever pressure is low, reduced
speed in rope.
Shade variations -Improper pretreatment
Reduction in dye - Presence of chlorine content in water
yield - Presence of bicarbonate containing
water
-Varying LR
- Presence of residual peroxide,
decomposes sensitive dyestuff & effect
is predominant in pastel shades
Batch to batch - Presence of reducing agent in water or
reproducibility on substrates
- Process parameters/ substrate/
dyestuff used & compatibility of dyestuff
- Addition of Tulachem Texflow LDP
during dye dissolution to improve dye
dissolution & electrolyte, alkali stability.
-Linear/ progressive dosing of alkali as per
dyestuff class used.
-Increase the pump rate to increase the
pressure.
-Use recipe for pretreatment as
recommended
-Ensure ready for dyeing fabric meets all
pretreatment parameter like absorbency/
whiteness/ residual peroxide/hardness on
fabric/core alkali neutralisation, etc.
-Water used for dyeing should be free from
chlorine [ water passing through actified
carbon unit] /bicarbonates
- Ensure adequate liquor ratio during
dyeing
- Ensure uniform & optimum quantity of
salt by checking specific gravity of
electrolyte in the dye bath
-Use of Tulachem Resist Salt a mild
oxidizing agent to overcome premature
reduction of Reactive dyes
- Stetting of LAB-LAB & LAB-BULK is
necessary
Pilling of fabric - Cotton quality [ short staple fiber]
- Abrasion during process with machine
part
- Increased SG due to salt/alkali
addition & hence even fabric surface to
contacts increases the pilling
- Use of suitable lubricant like Tulachem
Texlube AC
- Bio-washing with Tulachem Softex APB
for antipilling Bio-polishing for uniform
surfaces
- To minimize the dyeing cycle/ avoid re-
dyeing

Fine creases & - Twisting of rope/ pressure on folds/ - The elastic recovery of cotton being low
unlevelness due to more weight on folds which compresses as compared to synthetics is the physical
abrasion on cotton the fold, if no lubricants is used. Tension reason why a universal anti-creasing
& polyester cotton on fibers/ friction over the fabric & with products can not perform very well in
blend machine parts every case, only efficient range of dyeing
lubricant can solve the problem like
Tulachem Texlube AC

Back staining & - This problem is visible only after - After treatment of the fabric with efficient
staining on adjust knitting yarn with white or pale dyed & washing off agent like Tulachem
light color/ white after washing off Texwash DET
portion -Needs to follow the proper wash off
sequence

- Uneven absorption of dyestuff, -Use of suitable leveling agent like

Streakiness particularly for dyeing low/ high GSM Tulachem Texflow LARD
fabric -Check unevenness in yarn
- Yarn parameters

Tailing effect on - Due to poor migration of dyestuff - use of suitable leveling agent like
critical shades like Tulachem Texflow LARD
khaki/ olive/ grey - Proper selection of trichromatic dye
combination
Poor rubbing - Depends on depth of shade
fastness - Dyeing method adopted
- Wash off sequence adopted
-Use high tinctorial dyestuff
- Use high temperature dyeing for better
penetration
-use proper wash off method & double
soaping
- Use of a suitable surface lubricating non-
ionic softener like Tulachem Finitex SEW
for reduction in friction coefficient.

Poor washing off - Improper fixation of dyestuff -Proper fixation of dyestuff

fastness - Improper washing off of hydrolyzed -Use Tulachem Texwash DET for
dyestuff washing out unfixed hydrolyzed dyestuff
- Use of poor quality salt & hard water in -Use of soft water during washing off
washing off

Tone change after -Due to splitting of covalent bonds - Soaping to be carried out at pH 7
soaping on VS dyed under high temp, alkaline soaping --Proper soaping at 95° C with proper
shades conditions wash off agent & suitable pH

Uneven appearance - Due to improper removal of hydrolyzed - Use minimal shade change, non
due to the dye dyes formaldehyde dyefixer like Tulachem
residue on the - Improper selection of dye fixer Texfix NFR or Tulachem Dyefix 2 FD
fabric - Excessive use of dye fixer - Use required/ optimum doses only

Too much variation - Non compatible dye combination - Dyestuff selected based on compatible
in tone after the dye - Improper selection of dyestuff SERF profile, Migration Index, Level
fixation treatment - Uncontrolled after treatment like dye Dyeing Factor & Half Dyeing Time as per
Flairing/ fixation/ finishing recommendation of supplier.
unevenness
-Select right Trichromy as per light
Lower light - Improper selection of dyestuff. fastness requirement
fastness -Proper selection of minimal shade change
& non- light fast affecting dye fixer
[ formaldehyde free]

Seasonal variation - In summer season, due to drying up of - Use of RO water.

in shades/duller water leads higher TDS in water. - Use of suitable dispersing &
look/ haziness Sequestering agent like Tulachem
Texcell DSA.

General Dyeing methods for Cotton Knit processing

°C
100 °C
100
30'

90 20' 30' 30'

90 10' 10'
50' 20' HOLD 20' 20' 40'

80 80
HOLD HOLD C D1 D2 HOLD
70 70

60 C D 60
D rain
50 A,B Drain 50

40 40

30 30 A,B

20 20
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
min 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 min
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Isothermal Method Migration Method
Sr. no. Product Name Concentration [g/l] Function
Tulachem Texcell DSA 1.0 Dye bath conditioner
Dye bath auxiliary

Tulachem Texflow DAP
Tulachem Texlube AC
Tulachem Texflow LARD
Tulachem Texflow LDP
Tulachem Resist Salt
Tulachem Ecobase ALKB
1.0 [For heavy gsm/delicate
fabrics]
1.0
0.5 [for light/pale shades]
0.5-1.0 [for dark shades]
1.0-2.0 [for viscose dyeing]
2.0-3.0
Penetrating agent for delicate
fabric
Lubricant to prevent crease mark
Leveling agent
Dispersing agent
Mild oxidizing agent
Alkali pH controller

Tulachem Texwash DET 0.5- 1.0 [based on shade depth] Effective wash off agent
Wash
off

Tulachem Texwash PA 0.5- 1.0

Tulachem Texfix NFR 2.0 [for deep shades] Formaldehyde free dye fixer
Fixer

Tulachem Dyefix FMD 2.0 [for deep shades] Formaldehyde based fixer

Finishing Process
SYMPTOM / DIAGNOSIS / POSSIBLE CAUSE CURE / POSSIBLE REMEDY
PROBLEM

Sewability damage -Brittleness in fabric is developed due - Use suitable Sewability improver like
to various processing operation, which Tulachem Finitex SEW
does not allow needle to penetrate the
 knit structure smoothly but damages the
knit structure

Poor handle of - At pH 5-6 all cationic softener exhaust - Under such situation satisfactory
fabric after cationic on fabric independent of temperature, exhaustion is achieved only at pH 7
dye fixation & but this cationic fixed material having
finishing treatment lots of cationic charge on the surface &
that of softener also gets activated &
repell each other.

Dark spots on dyed - Using softeners having poor shear - Use shear stable softener like Tulachem
fabric stability, cause spots due to breaking of Softex BAC/ Tulachem Softex MIS conc.
emulsion

Poor inner softness - Commercial amino silicones having - use of super micro to Nano silicone like
& elasticity particle size is >0.1 micron, which can Tulachem Microsil IDRO
not penetrate the core of fiber

Lumpy feel/ poor -Improper selection of softener & - Use of Hydophilic mildly Cationic softener
hydrophilicity excessive dosages like Tulachem Softex CT Liq 100
(concentrated) or Tulachem Softex TT
Poor hydrophilicity - Use of Hydrophilic Silicone softener like
on polyester part Tulachem Softex HS

Sticking at the ends -During cutting number of layers of
while cutting fabric are cut using knife blades, which
garments made up gets heated due to large frictions
of cotton/polyester involved develops high temperature
blends around 300°C, hence causes the
melting of synthetic fiber.
-Use suitable silicone which imparts
hydrophilicity to polyester part like
Tulachem Softex HS
- Finish the fabric with suitable softener,
which improves the Sewability by reducing
friction
Uneven surface - poor quality cotton - Use acid Cellulase based Tulachem
appearance/ dead - more abrasion during process Softex APB [bio washing ] to get clean
cotton on dyed surface.
fabrics - try to minimize the abrasion during
process

Dark colored oil - silicones which are not jet stable - Use jet stable silicones
spots/ silicone - direct heating of silicone bath - heat bath to required temperature [50°C]
stains & then add silicon softener to bath then
run machine

Damage of viscose - residual alkali [Core alkali] - Core alkali should be removed
after drying completely with a product like Tulachem
Demin C

Yellowing of white - Storage conditions - Storage condition should be free from

during storage/ -Packing material used for white goods
Phenolic Yellowing free from BHT [Butyl hydroxyl toluene]
- core pH before drying
atmospheric pollutants like oxides of N/ S
& humidity etc
- Packing material free from phenolic
antioxidant
- White goods core pH should be 6.0-6.5

Yellowing of white - Use of FWA having poor acid stability - Use acid stable FWA
if finished in acidic
side as per Oeko-
Tex standard
- Use FWA having low to medium affinity &
Tailing of white - Improper selection of FWA suitable for pad application
fabrics when FWA
applied by padding
applications
- Improper selection of FWA & finishing - Select finishing chemicals which are
Drop in whiteness agents compatible with anionic FWAs
after finishing

- Elastane are sensitive to highly acidic pH

(<4) & also to highly alkaline pH (<11)
Loss of elastic - Improper processing method - Avoid Chlorinated Bleaching
properties in Cotton - High tension & excessive heating should
/Elastane fibers be avoided in printing/ finishing
- Pretreatment sequence adopted should
be - Relaxation- heat setting-
demineralization- scouring-bleaching-
dyeing- finishing- compacting