Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Skye
to
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Area of
detail
Less than an
hour later the
rain has disappeared. Suddenly,
Skye appears in the
distance and it does not disappoint.
Straight ahead the tiny village of Uig,
home to about 200 islanders, is tucked
neatly into a hillside on the Trotternish
peninsula, the most northerly of several that radiate out from the islands
mountainous center. Lush fields, dotted with sheep and whitewashed cottages, tumble down to sheltered Uig
Bay. Colorful, battered fishing trawlers
bob gently in the slate-gray waters.
Other passengers line the railing and
snap pictures. After I take a shot for a
middle-aged couple posing along the
railing, the husband says to me in a
Scottish brogue as thick as a Highlands
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MAP: 5W INFOGRAPHICS
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F O T O / I L L U S T R AT I O N C O P Y R I G H T
P H OTO S, C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: K I N LO C H LO D G E
H OT E L x 2 , M A RC S C H LO S S M A N / G E T T Y I M AG E S, M G M /
C O U R T E S Y E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N , C O U R T E S Y TA L I S K E R ,
P AT R I C K D I E U D O N N E / G E T T Y I M A G E S , C O L U M B I A
PICTURES/ THE KOBAL COLLECTION
dd,
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roaming freely. This landscape was far Sitting in his office, just above the
different a century or so ago; it was 181-year-old Talisker Distillery on the
covered with great woods that western side of Loch Harport, Mark
stretched across the 639-square mile Lochhead welcomes me and explains
island. There were countless sea ea- I am not the first to travel so far to exgles, buzzards and deer then. And perience the single malt whisky. Talthere were more islanders.
isker gets a steady stream of visiting
Skyes population topped 23,000 in Scotch fanatics from around the
the 1840s, before forced eviction dev- world, who want to see, smell, touch
astated the islands population. Land- and taste everything that goes into
lords forced thousands of farmers, or making Talisker the drink it is. Says
crofters, to leave their rented homes Lochhead, You are in good company.
and farms during what was known as
Lochhead, a 24-year veteran of the
The Highland Clearances, so they distillery business, offers me a tour of
could use the land for sheep farming. the distillery, where visitors learn how
Many emigrated to North America and barley, yeast and water are combined
Australia and by the 1930s there were to produce single malt Scotch whisky.
less than 10,000 residents left on Skye, First the barley is malted by soaking
about the same number as today.
it in water for two to three days and
Although Skye was once domi- allowing it to germinate, releasing its
natedand most of it ownedby pow- starch.
erful clans such as the MacLeods and
We have plenty of water here, says
Macdonalds, the large estates have Lochhead as he shows me the Carbost
mostly been sold off bit by bit. The Burn, the mighty stream that runs
present Lord Macdonald, 34th heredi- alongside the distillery and supplies
tary Chief of Clan Donald, sold most 60,000-70,000 liters of water an hour
of his 45,000-acre estate on Skye to pay for the cooling process. The water
death duties and other taxes. Today, he used in the Scotch itself comes from
and his wife, the noted chef and author closely guarded springs on the hill beClaire Macdonald, run the Kinloch hind the distillery.
Lodge Hotel in Sleat. At the Lodge,
Next the barley is dried in a kiln and
their daughter Isabella, surrounded by a secret amount of peat smoke is
centuries of portraits of former Mac- added to give Talisker its unique rich,
donald chieftains, tells me, Times smoky flavor. The malt is then crushed
change but the tradition lives on.
to grist, hot water is added and the
After a quick detour to visit the barleys natural enzymes get to work
Gaelic college in southern Skye, I re- converting starch into fermentable
ceive the phone call I have been wait- sugars. The liquid is then cooled, yeast
ing for. Its from Mark Lochhead, man- added and fermentation begins. After
ager of the Talisker Distillery.
several days this mixture, called wash,
Can you be here in an hour? he asks. is transferred to a copper still where
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the alcohol is boiled off and then con- peaty, fruity, even of sea air. Lochhead
densed back into liquid form.
surprises me by telling me to add a
Lochhead points to the copper still splash of water. Water opens the
and tells me that each distillery closely bouquet, the aroma, and helps you
guards their exact design. Much of the taste more layers of the whisky, he
body of our Scotch comes from the explains. Never use ice. It contracts
precise size and shape of the still.
the whisky and holds in the flavors.
From the still the spirit is placed in
The scotch first explodes with a
oak casks to mature from three to BANG! But it soon simmers in my
thirty years. As the oak is porous, it mouth. Its as if my palate is on fire,
allows the maturing whisky to then quickly soothed. The single malt
breathe, releasing some into the has a firm, complex body, a bit creamy
warehouse atmosphere every year. but rugged. As I swallow it, it hits me
We call this the angels share, says againfull force. The whiskys famous
Lochhead. The final step is the bottling. long finish lingers in the back of my
throat. Im reminded of a Scotch expert
It is time for my sip of Talisker. Al- who wrote, Talisker is not a drink, it
though Lochhead is reluctant to name is an interior explosionit bangs doors
his favorite bottling (Its like asking and slams windows.
me which of my children I love the
Lochhead smiles as he watches me
most), he points me toward the 45.8% take a sip. You just had a taste of Skye,
10-year-old single malt.
he tells me with a smile. Its powerful,
I raise the golden orange single malt robust and, as some say, volcanic. Just
to my nose and inhale. It smells a bit like this beautiful island.
Travel Tips
GETTING THERE A toll-free
loch-lodge.co.uk).
FOOD Near Dunvegan, the
Three Chimneys restaurant
is noted for its seafood and
hot marmalade pudding
(tel. +44 (01470) 511258,
www.threechimneys.co.uk).
DONT MISS The Talisker
Distillery, the islands only distillery, offers tasting tours
(tel. +44 (01478) 614308,
www.discovering-distilleries.com/talisker).
INFO AND BOOKINGS www.
visithighlands.com R.K.
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