Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Cross-Media Project
A Balkan Tale is an ambitious project, funded by the European Union, to use multiple media to show the ways in
which peoples of differing languages and religions coexisted
peacefully in the late Ottoman Empire in southeastern Europe, just before the First Balkan War, which started in
1912. The project involved a team of historians from Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Holland, Kosovo, Macedonia, Serbia,
Turkey, and the United States, under the general leadership of Greek historian Christina Koulouri. 1 The products,
almost all issued in English, German, Greek, Albanian, Serbian, and Macedonian, include an exhibit of 50 recently
taken color photographs, accompanied by a detailed catalog
(in color in English, in smaller black-and-white format in Serbian, at least) and a half-hour-long film, The Silent Balkans:
A Hundred Years since the Balkans Wars, directed by Andreas
Apostolidis. This director and scenarist has also authored
films on population displacements in the 20th century: from
Greece and Turkey in 1923; Germans expelled from eastern
Europe in 1945; from India and Pakistan in 1947; and from
Cyprus in 196474 (see http://www.twiceastranger.net).
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The photographs were displayed with an accompanying text, here in Belgrade. (Photo by Sasa Janjic, used with permission of Remont
Independent Artistic Association)
FIGURE 4.
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FIGURE 5. When the exhibit was mounted in Belgrade at the konak (residence) of Princess Ljubica, the soundscape and smellscape could not be
accommodated within the architecture of the protected Ottoman-period building. (Photo by Slobodan Naumovic)
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The Bali Bey Mosque is located in the central part of the Nis Fortress, to the right of the main path from the entrance, and dates to the early
16th century. It was first mentioned in the Ottoman tax register of 1523 as a mescid (small mosque), having probably been constructed at some point after
1516. It was built on the foundations of a medieval building pulled down by the Ottomans in 1428. The mosque was the endowment of Bali Bey from
Edirne, a high-ranking Ottoman civil servant. Around 1760 a medrese (Muslim theological school) was built next to the mosque. In 1868 Abdurrahman
Pasa from Nis placed an Islamic library next to it, adding two separate rooms along the north wall. The Bali Bey Mosque remained unused for many years
after the Ottomans were ousted from Serbia in 1878. In 197677 repairs were undertaken; today it operates as the Salon 77 Art Gallery. (Photo by
Ivan Petrovic and text from the exhibit catalog used with permission of RemontIndependent Artistic Association)
FIGURE 6.
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The Bektashi Arabati Baba tekke (lodge of a religious order) in Tetovo is by far the largest and most elaborate Ottoman dervish lodge in the
Balkans. There are no reliable data on the date of its building. Legend claims that it was founded in the 16th century by a leading member of the Bektashi
order, Sersem Ali Baba, who after a short stay in the tekke of Didymoteicho (Greece) was reassigned to Tetovo (1538). According to another legend, the
tekke was built by Arabati Baba (who died in 1780). It was renovated by Receb Pasa Kalkandelenli (d. 1822) and his son Abdurrahman Pasa in the early
19th century. Receb Pasa owned many villages, ciftliks (individual peasant land holdings), shops, and houses in the Tetovo district but also in Tirana,
Elbasan, Thessaloniki, and Istanbul. The lodge functioned until 1912 and recently reverted partly to its old function. The surviving buildings are divided
into two types: buildings for ritual purposes or accommodation of the dervishes and the baba, their spiritual guide (turbe [tomb], mescid [small mosque],
semahane [building or hall where dervishes perform their ritual, the whirling dance [sema], house of the seyh), and buildings that served the daily needs of
the complex (misafirhane [guesthouse], sadrvan [ablution fountain], Fatimas house; kitchen, etc.). (Photo by Ivan Blazhev and text adapted from the
exhibit catalog, used with permission of RemontIndependent Artistic Association)
FIGURE 7.
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Berat was conquered by the Ottomans in 1417 and has experienced periods of great prosperity as well as stagnation to date. With a population
of some six to seven thousand inhabitants in the 16th century, it was one of the most important cities in the Ottoman Balkans. In the 17th century, it
contained 19 Muslim and 10 Christian neighborhoods and 1 Jewish district. Nevertheless, in the aftermath of the VenetianOttoman War (1685), the
Jewish population of the city grew rapidly, as a large number of Jews moved for security reasons from Vlora to Berat. Growing steadily, Berat succeeded
Vlora as the provincial capital town. In the 19th century, the powerful Vrioni family dominated the city and the district (sanjak) of Berat. The imposing
gate of their palace (saray) and the tomb of one of the members of the family survive today. Ilyaz Bey Vrioni was a key figure in the political elite of
the Albanian national movement and independent Albania in the early 20th century. The mansion is in ruins today. Despite the destruction, the Pasas
Gate is, thanks to its decoration, one of the most beautiful monuments in Albania. (Photo by Jutta Benzenberg and text from the exhibit catalog used with
permission of RemontIndependent Artistic Association)
FIGURE 8.
end of the Empire and shows how the various national and
religious groups organized to greet the sultan. According to
Columbia historian Mark Mazower, this period marked the
peak of Thessalonikis economic prosperity but, ominously,
the different groups were preparing to fight each other, so the
segment ends with the various Balkan armies on exercises.
Segments 5 and 6 present the First (1912) and Second (1913) Balkan Wars, respectively. The conflicting land
claims lead to war, first by Bulgaria, Greece, Montenegro,
and Serbia against the Ottoman Empire to drive it out of
Macedonia, then between Bulgaria, Greece, and Serbia to
divide up the newly liberated territory. The artillery from
the opening scenes fires again, followed quickly by footage
of dead civilians, filmed by French cameramen, plus shots
of the Greek army entering Thessaloniki and Ioannina. As
armies retreat, columns of refugees go with them, newly
foreigners in the lands in which they have always lived. In
the segment on the Second Balkan War, the Greek director
Fotos Lambrinos notes that the French footage was shown in
Paris, presented there as events fortunately far from Europe,
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In 1891, Thessaloniki obtained a modern Ottoman government building (hukurnet konag) with a neoclassical facade and Renaissance elements, designed by Vitaliano Poselli, an Italian architect whose
name has been linked to the citys new architectural face in the late 19th
century. Poselli also designed the Ottoman Middle School (Idadiye), in
which the School of Philosophy of the University of Thessaloniki is housed
today, the Ottoman barracks, which now houses the 3rd Corps of the
Greek Army, the Yeni Mosque, the citys Catholic and Armenian churches,
the Bet-Saul Synagogue (not extant), and the Villa Allatini and other
mansions. The building housed the new Ottoman administration of the
Tanzimat reforms period, which sought to modernize the Ottoman state
according to western European standards: the Council of the Prefecture,
Courts of Justice, Municipal and the Land Register, Public Records Office,
Vakf Department, and Police and Gendarmerie. During the Tanzimat period, similar buildings were built in several provincial cities in the Ottoman
Empire. In 1911, Sultan Murad V was hosted at the building during his
official visit to Thessaloniki. Today, the building, still called Konaki
in Greek, houses government agencies. (Photo by Kamilo Nollas and text
from the exhibit catalog used with permission of RemontIndependent
Artistic Association)
FIGURE 9.
in the Balkans. But the end of the segment shows scenes from
the start of World War I, in France. Europe, it seems, was
not so far from the Balkans.
The final segment on the legacies of the Balkan wars
notes the violence of the 20th century, the Holocaust, nuclear weapons, and the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s. The
Greek historian Christina Koulouri, who headed the project,
says that although people had thought that those Yugoslav
conflicts finished the processes started by the Balkan wars,
new identities are still being created in the Balkans, and
war is possible again. Belgrade University historian Radina
Vucetic says that people who live in the Balkans only accept
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Situated on the edge of the Old Bazaar district of Skopje, the KursunluKursumli Han is the only entirely preserved Ottoman inn
(caravanserai) in the Balkans. It was built by Muezzin Muslihuddin in 154950. It is a massive structure with an open courtyard, featuring a beautifully
crafted ablution fountain (sadrvan) at its center. There are 68 rooms in the building, which served as an inn until it was transformed into a prison in
1787. The inn acquired its present-day name, kursunlu, in the 19th century, after the lead roof with which it was covered. At the beginning of 20th
century, it served again as an inn before it was turned into a weapons depot. Since 1955 it has housed the statue collection of the Archaeological Museum.
(Photo by Ivan Blazhev and text adapted from the exhibit catalog used with permission of RemontIndependent Artistic Association)
FIGURE 10.
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Visual Anthropology
NOTES
Acknowledgments.
The authors would like to express their gratitude to Sasa Janjic from the Independent Artistic Association Remont
(Remont nezavisna umetnicka asocijacija, http://www.remont.net)
for his generous help and for kindly obtaining the rights to use the
photographs that are presented in this essay. Research for this essay by
Slobodan Naumovic was performed in the framework of the project
The European Union and the Transformation of Cultural Identities
in Contemporary Serbia (177018), funded by the Serbian Ministry
of Education and Science.
1. Mark Mazower (Columbia University), Christina Koulouri (Panteion University, Athens), Halil Berktay (Sabanci University,
Istanbul), Irena Stefoska (Ss. Cyril and Methodius University,
Skopia), Machiel Kiel (retired professor of Utrecht University,
Netherlands Archaeology Institution in Istanbul), Radina Vucetic
(University of Belgrade), Frasher Demaj (Institute of History,
333
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