Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
AmeRicaN
1938
OF
DerMaTOLOGY
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VOLUME 12
I II II
AcaDemy
NUMBER 1
II
Part 1
IIII
II
JANUARY, 1985
I
"*"']~"%~o~~
:" ".~:.... ~
Journal of the
American Academy of
Dermatology
Larsen
0.1% or less
0.5 %
4.0%
5.0%
20.0%
Volume 12
Number 1, Part 1
January, 1985
Perfume dermatitis
Perfume mixture
Cinnamic aldehyde
Cinnamic alcohol
Isoeugenol
Oakrnoss
Eugenol
Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal
Alpha amyl cinnamic
alcohol
[
I
Tested
Positive
Percent
2,46[
172
94
61
48
29
25
7
36
5
7
4
2
2
1.2
1
0.2
1.4
0.2
Hydroxycitronellal
Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance widely used in
floralizing perfume materials. It may also be found
as a fragrance in antiseptics and insecticides. This
widely used fragrance material is synthetic and not
found in nature.
Larsen
Journal of t h e
American Academy o f
Dermatology
F_.=r_..-c, o
c--c-c.,o.
~==~c.o,-,
An essential
oil from
a lichen
cinnamic
oakmoss
absolute
cinnamic
alcoho/
aldehyde
alphaamyl
cinnamicalcohol
c=HcHcH.oHcH.
H
!
H,OH
HO
.,~H
geraniol
hydroxycitronellaJ
~~~LocH=
OCH=
OH
OH
isoeugenol
eugeno~
6-Methyleoumarin
6-Methylcoumarin is a synthetic compound
structurally related to the furocoumarins. Several
years ago an epidemic of photodermatitis occurred
in people using a popular sunscreen with an increased level of 6-methylcoumarin. 9 The reaction
occurred primarily in women and developed
within several hours after they applied the suntan
lotion and went into the sun. The FDA received
many consumer complaints, and it initiated a shelf
recall of all suntan products containing this ingredient. 1 Subsequent phototesting suggested that
6-methylcoumarin is indeed a potent photosensitizer, at least under the conditions of this particular
application. 11
IFRA recommends that 6-methylcoumarin and
also 7-methylcoumarin not be used as a fragrance
ingredient.
Versalide (AETT)
Versalide (AETT) is a Tetralin musk widely
used as a musk fixative in many cosmetics, including soaps, colognes, and antiperspirants. It found
wide use as a masking agent in nonscented antiperspirants. Several years ago, Avon toxicologists
Volume 12
Number 1, Part 1
January, 1985
Perfume dermatitis
Inconsistency in cosmetic labeling poses a dilemma to the dermatologist who advises fragrance-sensitive patients to use unscented products. A masking fragrance usually consists of a
single fragrance material or a complete perfume at
a reduced concentration of about 0.01%. Some
companies list their product as unscented and
in the list of ingredients include the chemical
ethylene brassylate (Musk T). However, most patients and physicians would not recognize ethylene
brassylate as a masking fragrance. Therefore,
there is merit in including with the component or
components a masking fragrance in the list of ingredients in parentheses.
The solution to the masking fragrance problem
is to either (1) eliminate the term "masking fragrance" or (2) use a prominent asterisk by the
term "unscented" and list the chemicals that constitute the masking fragrance. 15 If the masking
scent is a complex fragrance, the inclusion of a
code number would make it easy for the dermatologist to request the masking scent for patch testing. Prominent disclosure of the presence of a
masking scent in unscented products would inherently inform the public of the reason for a masking
scent and reduce the chance of consumer deception.
Suntan salon photodermatitis
A patient developed a severe photodermatitis on
the arms and neck after applying Shalimar perfume and going to a suntan salon. The Shalimar
perfume used was 30 or 40 years old and apparently still contained the phototoxic oil of bergamot. Applying some recently manufactured
Shalimar perfume and going to the suntan salon
produced no reaction. Most perfumes that contain
oil of bergamot contain the bergapten-free variety;
therefore, the phototoxic reactions that were
common years ago are rarely seen today.
Contact urticaria
Contact urticaria may be allergic or nonallergic. 18 Balsam of Peru and certain of its derivatives
can cause nonallergic urticaria. The chief agent
responsible for this is cinnamic aldehyde, although cinnamic acid, benzoic acid, and benzaldehyde are also active. The mechanism of action
is probably a nonallergic histamine-liberating ef-
Journal of the
American Academy of
Dermatology
Larsen
Excluded
Benzylidene acetone
P-Tert-ButylphenoI
Cyclamen alcoholt
Diethyl maleate
Dihydrocoumarin
4, 6-Dimethyl-8-t butyl coumarin
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Dimethylcitraconate
Ethyl acrylate
Hydroabietyl alcohol
6-Isopropyl-2-decalol
7-Methoxyeoumarin
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25,
Use with
quenching agent(s)
Carvone oxide
Cinnamic aldehyde
Cinnamic aldehyde methyl anthranilate Schiff base
Citral
Farnesol
Phenylacetaldehyde
Volume 12
Number 1, Part 1
January, 1985
Perfume dermatitis
1, Eiermann HJ, Larsen WG, Maibach HI, Taylor JS: Prospective study of cosmetic reactions; 1977-1980. J AM
ACAD DBRMATOL6:909-917, 1982.
2, Larsen WG: Allergic contact dermatitis to the perfume in
Myeolog cream. J AM ACAD DERMATOL 1:131-133,
1979.
3. Larsen WG: Perfume dermatitis. Arch Dermatol 113:
623-626, 1977.
4. Calnan CD, Cronin E, Rycroft R: Allergy to perfume
ingredients. Contact Dermatitis 6:500-501, 1980.
5. Thune P, Solberg Y, McFadden N: Perfume allergy due
to oak moss and other lichens. Contact Dermatitis
8:396-399, 1982.
6. Opdyke DL: Musk ambrette. Monographs of fragrance
raw materials. Food Cosmet Toxicol 13:875, 1975.
7. Raugi GH, Storrs FJ, Larsen WG: Photoallergic contact
dermatitis to men's perfumes. Contact Dermatitis 5:
251-260, 1979.
8. Kochever rE, Zalar GL, Einbinder J, Harber LC: Assay
of contact photosensitivity to musk ambrette in guinea
pigs. J Invest Dermatol 73:144-146, 1979.
9. Jackson RT, Nesbitt LT Jr, DeLeo VA: 6Methylcoumarin photocontaet dermatitis. J AM ACAD
DERMATOL2:124-127, 1980.
10. Eiermann HJ: Regulatory issues concerning AETT and
6-MC. Contact Dermatitis 6:120-122, 1980.
11. Kaidbey KH, Kligman AM: Identification of topical photosensitizing agents in humans. J Invest Dermatol
70:149-151, 1978.
12. Spencer PS, Sterman AB, Horoupian D: Neurotoxic
changes in rats exposed to the fragrance compound
acetyI ethyl tetramethyl tetralin. Neurotoxicology 1:
221-238, 1979.
13. Hjorth N: Eczematous allergy to balsams. Allied perfumes and flavoring agents with special reference to balsam of Peru, Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 41(suppl
46):102, 1961.
14. Litt J: Unscented fragrance. J AM ACAD DERMATOL
2:525, 1980. (Current issues.)
15. Larsen WG: Response. I AM ACAD DRMATOL 2:526,
1980. (Current issues.)
16. Von Krogh G, Maibach HI: The contact urticaria syndrome, in Marzulli FN, Maibach HI, editors: Dermatotoxicology, ed. 2. New York 1983, Hemisphere
Publishing Co., pp. 301-322.
17. MeDaniel WR, Marks JG: Contact urticaria due to sensitivity to spray starch. Arch Dermatol 115:628, 1979.
Joutalal-of the
American Academy of
Dermatology
Larsen
A p p e n d i x I. Cont'd
Concentration
and vehicle
as is
10% oo
10% DE
as is 10% DE
Laufic 10% DE
as is
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
5% oo
10% aq sol
1% pet
25% co
1% pet
25% pet
1% alc
1% pet
as is
5% pet
10% ale
1% pet
as is
5% pet
5% pet
2% pet
.10% pet
10% oo
0.1% pet
5% pet
10% pet
10% DE
2% pet
10% aq sol
5% pet
10% DE
as is
10% oo
5% pet
30% pet
Cosmetic ingredient
Cinnarnates (2-ethoxyethyl-pmethoxy)
Cinnamic acid
Cinnamic alcohol
Cinnamic alcohol styrax type
Cinnamic aldehyde
Cinnamon oil
Cinnamyl alcohol
Cis-~-terpineol
Citracetal parento
Citral oil
Citric acid
Citron, oil of
Citronella, oil of
Citronellol
Citronellyl oxyacetaldehyde
Clove oil
Coniferyl benzoate
Coumarin
p-Cymene
8-Cadinene
Deltyl extra
Diethyl phthalate
3,7-Dimethyl-l-octanol
Dimethyl phthalate
Essential oils
Estradiol
Ethyl alcohol
Ethyl vanillin
Eucalyptus, oil of
Eugenol
Geraniol
Geranium oil
Ginger, oil of
Gum(s)
Gylan
Hamamelis virginiana
Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde
Hibitane diblue
4-Hydroxy azobenzene carboxylic
acid
Hydroxycitronellal
Concentration
and vehicle
1% pet
5% pet
5% pet
5% pet
1% pet
0.5 %
5% pet
25% in BL
10% DE
1% pet
1% aq sol
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
i% pet
5% pet
1% pet
1% pet
5% pet
2% pet
2% pet
1% ale or 2%
pet
5% pet
as is
10% pet
1% pet
5% pet
2% pet
2% pet
1% pet
as is
as is
5% aq sol
2% pet
1% pet
2% pet
5% pet
continued
Volume 12
Number 1, Part 1
January, 1985
Perfume dermatitis
A p p e n d i x I. C o n t ' d
A p p e n d i x I. C o n t ' d
Cosmetic ingredient
a-Irisone
Isoamyl salicylate
Isobutyl salicylate
Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl quinolone
Jamin oil
Jasmin 9140
Laurel oil
Lauryl alcohol
Lauryl gallate
Lauryl sulfate (ammonium)
Lavender, oil of
Lemon, oil of
Lemon grass, oil of
Limonene, oil of
Linalool, oil of
Linayl acetate
Mahogonate dragoco
Menthenyl acetate
Methoxycitronella
Methyl ionone -y-pure IFF
Methyl salicylate
Mint oil
Mirbane oil (nitrobenzene)
Musk ambrette
13-Myrcene
Myristyl alcohol
Neroli, oil of
Orange, oil of
Patchouli, oil of
Peppermint oil
Concentration
and vehicle
as is
5% pet
5% pet
10% ale or 2%
pet
as is
2% pet
as is
2% pet
5% pet
5% pet
5% pet
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
10% pet
1% pet
as is
as is
1% pet
as is
1% pet
1% pet
25% co
5% pet
1% pet
5% pet
10% oo
1% pet
1% pet
1% pet
Cosmetic ingredient
Perfumes
Petitgrain oil
Petitgrain rectified
[3-Phenyl ethyl acetate
[3-Phenyl alcohol
Phenylacetaldehyde
Pine off
Piperonal (methylionone)
Rhodamine
Rose, oil of
Rose oil Bulgaria
Rose 62 ter
Sandalwood oil
Sandela 10
Sassafras, oil of
Sesame oil
Spice, oil of
Styrax essence GD
Terpineol extra
Terpinolene
Tetra hydromuguol
Thioglycollate (calcium)
Thyme, oil of
Trans.Cinnamic aldehyde
Triethanolamine
Vanilla (alcoholic extract)
Versalide prime
Verbena, oil of
Vetivert rectified
Ylang-Ylang oil
Concentration
and vehicle
as is (open and
closed)
10% oo
as is
1% pet
1% pet
2% pet
pure
1% pet
5% pet
1% alc
2% pet
as is
2% pet
as is
1% pet
5% oo
5% pet
5% pet
25% in BL
1% pet
as is
5% aq sol
25% co
2% pet
5% pet
10% acet
10% pet
1% pet
as is
5% pet
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