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Fashion Institute of Technology: Fashion Design Department

HAP026: Sewing for Fashion Designers

Fall 2014: September 27 to December 20
Meets on Saturday 1:30pm - 4:45pm in Classroom: C813
No class on Saturday October 4 and Nov. 29
Instructor: Prof. Brigitte Schwenner
Description: Students learn about woven fabric grains, doing layouts of patterns
on fabric, cutting and sewing sample garments. Projects develop skills in basic
industrial sewing machine handling, incorporate basic complexity in sewing
details, elements of fit and give the students some options for creativity in their
(Note that these samples may not be suitable to meet the portfolio
requirement of the Fashion Design degree program application. It is
recommended that students take the HAP153: Intermediate Sewing &
Embroidery Design course to augment the skills learned in this course and
in HAP025: Sewing for Fashion Designers in 9th & 10th grades).
Student Learning Outcomes:
Upon successful completion of this course, students will be able to:
Understand the principles of fabric grain and follow grain lines when
cutting projects
Gain control in using the single needle lockstitch and the three thread
overlock machine when making basic sewn garments
Trace paper patterns and follow the language of the pattern
Understand basic sewing terminology and construction steps when
making and applying seam and hem finishes to projects
Gain a basic understanding of the sewing steps required to create basic
sewn projects
Class 1: Introduction to the course:
Review supply list items; projects overview; discuss irons, tools, sewing machine
threading, usage and safety.
Demonstration: Blocking and pressing muslin
Sewing terminology
Stitch Sampler preparation: tear four 12 long by 6 wide muslin pieces
Start sewing sampler
o Stitch parallel rows, pin tucks and maze/s
Class 2: Stitch Sampler, continued:
Complete Stitch Sampler
Finish blocking 7 (or more) muslin pieces each 10 long by 5
o Demonstrate seam finishes: pink and stitch, tailors edge, overlock
single ply, overlock double ply, flat fell seams
Shirring ruffle & circular ruffle/cascade samples
HAP026 revised, June 2014

Class 3: Complete Stitch Sampler/ Start Pant

Complete stitch sampler.
Trace pant pattern on paper, cut & label pattern pieces.
Lay out pant pattern on fabric then cut out pant.
Class 4, 5: Pants, Capri or Shorts Sewing
Sew pants/shorts:
o Sew pants join inseams/outseams; finish with overlock. Join rise
seams; finish with overlock. Check elastic length; join together with
box/ X stitch. Stitch waist casing. Machine stitch hems.
Trace & cut Peasant Top to paper& cut pattern; do layout on fabric & cut.
Class 5, 6, 7: Peasant Top
Join sleeves to body front and back; finish seams (or use French seam).
Hem bottom (machine stitch). Make plain casing or ruffle casing at neck;
adjust elastic to fit. Hem or make ruffle casing at sleeve opening & bottom.
Trace & cut out Apron paper pattern. Do layout on fabric & cut.
Class 7, 8, 9, & 10: Apron Sewing
Sew apron:
o Join bib and skirt seams; attach bib to skirt with seam finish &
topstitch. Add neck tie/ribbon and facing with topstitch/edge stitch.
Sew side & bottom hems. Hem pocket and press. Sew on patch
pocket with edgestitch; add topstitch if desired. Add side waist ties.
Add any other desired trims and creative details.
Trace and cut skirt paper pattern.
Lay out and then cut pattern on fabric.
Class 9, 10: 0ptional Project/s
Note: not all students will complete this optional project.
Some students may choose to make a second apron, pants/shorts or
peasant top or skirt.
Skirt Sewing: Finish left side seams with overlock single or tailored edge.
Sew together with optional hem circular flounce, shirred ruffle or other
appropriate elements with approval of instructor. Press.
Class 11: Final Project Completion and Presentation
*Note that schedule and projects may be adjusted according to the pace and skill
level of students in class as well as other events that may impact class progress
& project completion.

HAP026 revised, June 2014