2V Non Linear TPS Baseline Adjustment - Written 06/08

Summary: How to set up 2V throttle bodies with the Non Linear TPS.
Discussion of idle mixture setting for various ECU: P7 and P8, 1.6M, 1.5M and 5.9M.
Graph of Linear versus Non Linear TPS output showing the difference.
The same throttle bodies have used on nearly all injected 2V from ST2 onward. 907 are very similar from
memory, but I havent seen any of them for quite a few years. Those pictured in the following report are from a
ST2, and have IW031 or green end flow injectors. The 750SSie and 900SSie also use these injectors. All 620
(well, not all), 750Mie, 800, 900Mie and 1000 use the same throttle bodies with Pico IWP043 injectors. These
are smaller with a steel body and a brown plastic band around them. They flow a bit more than the IW031.
Theres a photo of them below.
05 or 06 onward 620 use Bing brand throttle bodies. These differ by having the balance screw (almost not)
accessible from behind and no stop for the LH throttle blade. So for these you need to set the idle TPS setting
using the RH throttle screw after youve carried out the throttle balance (synchronisation). You really need the air
box out to do this. That bit might make more sense later. Im not sure if later S2R800 or 695 use these throttle
bodies as well, I havent actually looked. But both the 695 (afaik) and 800 have a linear TPS, so this setting
procedure is irrelevant for them anyway.
In the following photos youll notice Ive numbered all the parts we need to know about in series across all the
photos. That way, if I give a number, you know which part I mean.

4 ---------------------------------------------------

2 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------1-------------------------------------------------------------------2------------------------------------------------------------3------------------------------------------------------------------

Items viewed from LH, being vertical cylinder.

1. TPS throttle position sensor
2. TPS adjustment screws
3. Air bleed 4. Injector

5----------------------------------------------------------------------------

6---------------------------------------------------------------

Items viewed from front.

5. LH throttle stop screw
6. Balance or synchronisation adjustment screw

7-----------------------------

Items viewed from top, mainly to show the location of the RH throttle stop screw. 5 and 6 are shown again from
this angle.
7. RH throttle stop screw

12--------------------------------------------------------------

8--------------------------------9------------------------------------------------------------

10--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------11---------------------------------------------------13-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Items viewed from RH, being horizontal cylinder. The RH throttle stop screw is behind 9, the throttle cable
wheel.
8. Air bleed
9. Throttle cable wheel
10. Throttle cable mount
11. Fast idle cable lever
12. Fast idle adjustment screw
13. Fast idle cable mount and adjuster
Fast idle adjustment
The two blue lines show the ends of the fast idle lever slot, and you can see the pin that stops the lever next to the
upper line. This means the ends of the cable travel are constrained, and this needs to be remembered when you
adjust the cable. Theres no point adjusting the cable so the lever doesnt move, as the adjustment for when the
fast idle lever starts opening the throttle bodies themselves is controlled by 12, the fast idle adjustment screw.
Adjust the cable so it works fully between the two limits and then adjust the actual throttle opening to where you
like it via the fast idle adjustment screw. Doing this makes it very easy to give clearance in the system.

Pico Injectors
Below is a photo of the Pico series injector, just so you know what it looks like. The brown band denotes this one
as an IWP043. The 748R, 998, 999, etc fitment IWP069 has a yellow band, the MV fitment IWP048 a red band
for example.

Linear and Non Linear TPS

Visually the TPS (1) used on all the 2V motor excepting the 907 looks like the one in the above photo, including
the Linear TPS. You can see the TPS adjustment screws (2) with some small steel plates under them. These
plates are covering the slots for adjustment. The style of TPS used on the 907 and the 4V motor is shown in the
photo below. The adjustment slots are arrowed in blue.

The visual difference of the Linear 2V TPS is that there are no small steel plates under the TPS adjustment screws
(2) and there are no slots the screws holding the Linear TPS on go through round holes.
The easiest way to show the functional difference is a chart showing output voltage versus throttle angle. This
chart was made from reading the voltage coming out of the TPS in increments of 3 degrees of throttle opening, as
read using the diagnostic tools.

As you can see, the Non Linear is actually two linear stages, and is much more sensitive under 30 degrees
throttle opening. Linear is not surprisingly linear.
A point to note, noted by many who have been putting 999 motors into earlier chassis and using 999 throttle
bodies with earlier ECU the Linear TPS only goes to about 4.10V, which corresponds to 60 degrees on a Non
Linear TPS that the ECU is expecting.
TPS fitment across all 2V models
Non Linear: 620Mie, 620SSie, 750Mie, 750SSie, 900Mie, 900SSie, 907, ST2, ST3 (before 06).
Linear: 695 (I think), 800Mie, 800SSie, S2R 800, all 1000 and 1100 ds models, ST3 06 onward. The 2V models
have a bolt on Linear TPS, whereas most of the 4V models have it fixed (peened over, etc) into the throttle bodies
themselves, and are not replaceable as such.
To set the Non Linear TPS
Preparation: you need to get to the LH throttle stop screw (5), so its easiest to completely remove the air box. 02
and onward model Monsters are a bit easier to remove the air box on, except for the coil mount nuts. On the
earlier framed 900Mie and SSie models I remove the LH rubber tube going into the air box to provide access,
mainly because were on the clock when we do this so do as little as we need to and weve done it before. It also
helps to remove the fuel pressure regulator too its bolted to the front of the throttle bodies with a fuel hose going
into each end. And the drain hose from the bottom LH front of the air box.

TPS base line setting procedure (as we do it)

Every step is as important as any other, and the predominant aim of this procedure (apart from being correct) is
repeatability and consistency. We do it with the engine and throttle bodies cold. This is simply the convention,
we do it hot if we have to.
Disconnect the throttle cable at the RH throttle body cable wheel (9).
Ensure there is adequate clearance between the fast idle adjustment screw (12) and the throttle cable wheel tab at
right hand throttle body. The tab is inside and to the rear of the cable wheel.
Back off the RH throttle body stop screw (7) to allow at least 1 mm clearance. You need a 2.5mm hex key for this
If required, remove the vertical cylinder air box / throttle body tube and unbolt the fuel pressure regulator to allow
access to the LH throttle body idle stop screw (5) and balance screw (6).
Wind out the balance screw (6) approx 2 turns. Out means anti or counter-clockwise. Remember how far you
went, as you need to go back later.
Connect to the TPS by whichever method you are using to measure the TPS output voltage back probing wires,
Mathesis, DDS, etc. You need to go into the outer two wires if back probing, marked A and C on the connector.
With the throttle closed before you start you should be seeing voltage in the range of 300 450 mV, depending on
model. I usually record this voltage, just in case I need to go back to it. Remember, you need to have the ignition
on when doing this, and you dont want to short out any wires. Disconnecting the headlight or removing the
headlight fuse can also be a good idea if you dont have a lights on/off switch.
Remove the yellow paint from the LH throttle body stop screw (5) and wind out the screw until the TPS output
voltage stops dropping. Wind a further half turn to ensure clearance. Check the RH throttle body stop screw (7)
to ensure there is clearance between screw and stop. Also check the fast idle adjustment screw (12) to ensure
there is clearance there also. If either have no clearance, wind out further as required and repeat with LH stop
screw (5) as required. Flick butterfly to check for it closing fully.
Open and close the LH throttle gently until the voltage stabilises at a minimum. Do not snap the throttle butterfly
shut, as this will jam the butterfly and give a lower voltage reading. However if the throttle wont jam shut after
being snapped hard or by pushing the butterfly something is holding it open. Usually the voltage at this point will
be in the range of 90 to 170mV, most likely around 100. Again, I usually record this voltage out of suspicion.
Once youve ensured the LH throttle butterfly is closing properly, reset the TPS to give an output voltage of 150
mV by loosening the two screws (2) and rotating the TPS as required. These screws are either 7mm hex head or
Torx T20. Tighten the two screws (2) and ensure the setting remains consistent.
Wind in the LH throttle body stop screw (5) until the TPS output voltage is at the required idle setting for your
model. At this point we would use the throttle angle the ECU is reading to set the base idle setting, as what the
ECU is reading is more relevant than the actual voltage, as there is always variation. However, you need some
sort of diagnostic tool or software to read the throttle angle, so for many the voltage is as close as you can get. Its
still quite valid. Theres a table below of the specified settings, both degrees and nominal TPS output voltage for
that degree setting.

A side note with the tables:

Ducati didnt start specifying degrees of throttle opening for idle settings until the Mathesis diagnostic tool was
released in 1998 as before that there wasnt a factory tool for reading it. So any model prior to 97 had a voltage
setting only, which was 300mV for anything that had air bleeds. On models without air bleeds (all 851 models
and 888SP4) it was simply whatever it needed to be to get the engine to idle.
The relationship between degrees and voltage under 30 degrees throttle opening is: mV = (degrees x 105) + 150
The table below shows the specs we use, as well as the USA and Swiss distinction for ST2. This info was sent out
by Duane Mitchell at Ultimap (FIM) in early 00 from memory.
Model

TPS Voltage mV

Degrees

620

434

2.7

750

325

1.65

900

404

2.4

907

300

n/s

ST2 Euro

404

2.4

ST2 USA

460

2.95

ST2 Swiss

518

3.5

There was a service bulletin issued for the 900Mie in 00 sometime that revised the TPS idle setting by voltage
(not degrees) to 472mV. This corresponds to about 3.1 degrees. As far as I can remember, we ignored this pretty
much and kept using 2.4 degrees.
When I did training in Bologna in 02 they gave us a sheet which gave settings as below. Some of these seem a bit
odd, especially the 02 900Mie with the 5.9M ECU.
Model

TPS Voltage mV

620
750SSie

Degrees
2.7

326

750Mie
02

1.65
2.7

900SSie

423

2.5

900Mie

462

2.95

900Mie
02

3.68

MHe

423

2.5

ST2 Euro

404

2.4

ST2 USA

462

2.95

ST2 Swiss

521

3.5

Back to the procedure:

Open and close the throttle a few times to check the idle setting is stable and adjust if required. The TPS is now
set and the LH throttle body stop screw (5) should not be touched again.
Wind the balance adjustment screw (6) back in (clockwise) 2 turns (or other as above) to its approximate original
position.
Check the RH throttle body stop screw (7) to ensure there is clearance between screw and stop. Also check the
fast idle adjustment screw (12) to ensure there is clearance there also. If either have no clearance, wind out further
as required. Reconnect the throttle cable to the cable wheel (9) and ensure there is plenty of free play in the cable.
Refit the fuel pressure regulator, rubber air tube or air box assembly as removed. Unless its a later 620 with the
Bing throttle bodies. You need the air box off to get to the balance screw, which points to the rear.
Wind the air bleeds (3, 8) fully in, I usually record how far out they were, again just in case I need to go back to
where I started. You should need the fast idle on to get the engine to idle with the air bleeds (3, 8) screwed fully
shut. If not, something is most likely wrong. Set the manifold vacuum balance (synchronisation) via the balance
adjustment screw (6) using mercury sticks, etc at various RPM. This is often a case of best compromise, and
remember that cruise at 4,000 RPM has more throttle than free rev at 4,000 RPM. I usually go up to 6,000 or so
RPM free revving to check for variation. Its not uncommon to see one cylinder lead then the other lead at
differing RPM. Remember that word compromise.
Once this is done check again to ensure there is still clearance in both the throttle cable (10) and fast idle
adjustment screw (12). If not, adjust as required and recheck.
Next set the idle speed using the air bleeds (3, 8) as required. Set the idle speed at approx 1100 1150 RPM once
the engine is hot. As a general rule, the air bleeds should be approximately 1 turn out. At this point most will set
the air bleeds so the cylinders are balanced at idle. We dont worry about vacuum balance at idle though we
balance the mixture using the air bleeds and idle trimmer, as set out below.
Adjust the throttle cable to give the free play you desire. You can do this at the throttle body (10) or the twist
grip, up to you. Turn the bars fully left and right while doing this just in case the cables move when doing that.
Adjust the fast idle adjustment screw (12) to give the fast idle setting you desire. I prefer to have a fair bit of
clearance here so that full fast idle gives no more than 3,000 RPM, but some people like to just move the lever a
little and get the fast idle acting. Personal preference pretty much. Just make sure the fast idle adjustment screw
(12) has some clearance and therefore no effect at closed throttle, and you need to do the balance first to be sure of
that.
We ignore the RH throttle body stop screw (7), as its not needed and can only interfere with the LH throttle body
stop screw (5) setting. Leave it screwed out with plenty of clearance or just take it out. The LH throttle body stop
screw (5) is the master setting.
Thats the end of the throttle body fiddling. Next is the setting of the idle mixture. I often say to people that if
they cant carry out this final step then all the previous steps may have just been in vain. You might get lucky and
be close. Or not lucky and still have a poorly idling or running bike. As the fuel injection pulse widths at idle and
most cruising speeds up to 100km/h are very similar, the idle mixture and idle trimmer setting can have a very
large impact on general running at low throttle openings.

For example, if the bike is too lean and idles low, winding out the air bleeds (3, 8) to try to raise the idle speed
will only lean it out more, so the idle will most likely not increase. You can sometimes make a bike idle better by
winding the air bleeds (3, 8) in and richening the idle mixture if it was too lean to start with, even though the idle
is low. The idle speed might even increase, which can really confuse you. As an indication based on experience, a
full turn on the air bleeds can change the mixture from 1% CO to 4% CO on a 900, so the air bleeds have a big
influence.

Monster, Sport and Supersport Models with 1.5M or 5.9M ECU

The 1.5M ECU looks like this:

The 5.9M and 5AM look like this:

The idle trimmer on these models is adjusted electronically via the following diagnostic tools or software. There is
no way to get around it. Stand alone means a separate, hand held unit. PC means run via a PC or laptop.
Mathesis the first generation Ducati electronic diagnostic tool, now long since superceded - stand alone.
DDS the second generation Ducati electronic diagnostic tool stand alone.
Technoresearchs Centurion S PC based. Formally the MDST and VDSTS. This was also the official MV
Agusta tool, but it also works on many different brands and can be purchased in a few different capability specs
with prices that vary accordingly.
Texa Navigator (supercedes the Axone) stand alone. Nominally the official Aprilia electronic diagnostic tool, but
available as a generic all brands tool as well. As I worked at an official Aprilia and Moto Guzzi dealer we had an
Axone that for general workshop convenience was upgraded to the multi-brand level.
There are more of these electronic diagnostic tools becoming available all the time.
One very important thing to know about the 1.5M ECU is that it runs rich for the first 3,000 rotations every
time you start the engine after turning the key or kill switch off and then on. I just thought (while typing this) that
I dont know what happens if the engine stalls and you restart it Ive never tested that. So best to assume it does
it every time.
And this is not just when its cold. Every time! Even when its hot. If you start it up and check the idle mixture
quickly and its 5% CO after idling for 3 or so minutes (3,000 rotations at 1,100 RPM idle is about 3 minutes) the
mixture will drop to maybe 1% CO or so and itll idle like crap. I usually allow at least 4 to 5 minutes for the
mixture to settle after starting the engine. Its very annoying when youre in a hurry, as you have to turn the
engine off then back on to initiate the setting procedure with the diagnostic tools, but thats how it is.