1211

1215
1216
1218
1219
1221
1212
1222
1213
1223
1224
1225
1226
1227
1228
1231
1232
1233
1234
1237
1242
1243
1244
1245
1247
1251
1252
1253
1254
1255
1256
1257
1258
1261
1262
1263
1264
1265
1266
1267
1271
1272
1273
1274
1275
1276
1277
1278
1281
1282
1283
1286
1444

DME Control Unit

Air Mass Sensor
Throttle Potentiometer
Output Stage, Group 1
Output Stage, Group 2
Oxygen Sensor 1
Oxygen Sensor 2
Lambda Control 1
Lambda Control 2
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Knock Sensor 1
Knock Sensor 2
Knock Sensor 3
Knock Sensor 4
Battery Voltage/DME Main Relay
Throttle Idle Switch
Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch
Speedometer A Signal
A/C Compressor Cut Off
A/C Compressor
Crankshaft Pulse Sensor
Camshaft Sensor
Intervention AEGS
Ignition Secondary Monitor
Fuel Injector 1 (or group 1)
Fuel Injector 2 (or group 2)
Fuel Injector 3
Fuel Injector 4
Fuel Injector 5
Fuel Injector 6
Fuel Injector 7
Fuel Injector 8
Fuel Pump Relay Control
Idle Speed Actuator
Purge Valve
EGO Heater
Fault Lamp (check engine light)
VANOS
Air Pump Relay Control
Ignition Coil 1
Ignition Coil 2
Ignition Coil 3
Ignition Coil 4
Ignition Coil 5
Ignition Coil 6
Ignition Coil 7
Ignition Coil 8
Control Unit Memory Supply
Fault Code Memory
Fuel Injector Output Stage
Knock Control Test Pulse
No Fault Codes

WIRING:
job is pretty straight forward, you'll need to wire the pin 8 from the x20 conne
ctor (round one, near the fuses box) to pin 16 in the white connector from the i
nstrument cluster. that can be done in no time, the only difficult bit here is f

inding a hole to get the wire from the x20 connector (under the bonnet) to the p
in 16 from the white connector, in the right side of the instrment cluster (insi
de the car). me, i found a small hole near the positive socket of the car (big r
ed cable). other used another one, near the pedals.
few more details on X20: as you can see, it's a 2 pieces connector. un-screw the
top, and you'll split it in 2 halves: the upper one is the one with the holes,
the bottom is the half with the pins. you'll already have pin 8 wired in the upp
er part (should be a grey wire), you'll just need to continue from there with th
e wiring to the pin 16 in the white connector from the instrument cluster.
and that's all the wiring you'll need to read the fault codes.

HOW TO READ THE CODES:

To read codes for an OBD I car, you start by turning the ignition key on (do not
start the engine) and pressing the gas pedal to the floor five times within a p
eriod of five seconds. If you proceeded correctly, then the check engine lamp wi
ll light on for five seconds, then blink off, then blink on for 2.5 seconds, and
then go off for another 2.5 seconds.
After this, the computer will start to show you the trouble fault codes that are
stored.
The codes are given by short flashes of the check engine light, followed by shor
t pauses. The codes are all four digit numbers. For example, the trouble fault c
ode for monitoring the battery voltage level is 1231. This would show up flashin
g as "flash - pause - flash - flash - pause - flash - flash - flash - pause - fl
ash." I suggest having a pen and paper handy when you do this, as the codes have
a tendency to flash faster than you would think.
If there is more than one fault code stored, then each code will be separated by
a 2.5 second pause.
When there are no more codes to be read, the computer will give the code 1000, w
hich is one short flash, and then the light will remain off. Then the check engi
ne light will flash a half-second and then turn off. To read the codes again, si
mply turn the ignition key off and on again and repeat the procedure with the ga
s pedal (five times within five seconds).
To erase the fault code memory, first make sure fault code 1000 (short blink and
then light goes out for long period) is present, then depress acellerator fully
for at least 10 seconds. Read fault codes and check for 1444 code (no faults st
ored).
all error codes are in the pdf file, with description of the code and suggestion
s for resolving the problem.