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Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the
seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the family of Malvaceae. The fiber is
almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will tend to increase the
dispersion of the seeds.
The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world,
including the Americas, Africa, and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species
is found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa.[1] Cotton was independently
domesticated in the Old and New Worlds. The English name derives from the Arabic
(al) qun ,, which began to be used circa 1400 AD.[2] The Spanish word, "algodn", is
likewise derived from the Arabic.
Flow chart of pre treatment of cotton fabric:
All the processes of this stream are carried out in an aqueous state or
aqueous medium. The main processes of this section include :
singeing
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Singeing:
Desizing:
Desizing is the process or removing the starch or size the covering the warp
yarn using enzyme. Oxidizing agent, or other chemicals. There are three
types of technique in desizing and four method of desizing that has been
used.
Objectives Of Desizing:
Desizing Methods:
Enzymatic Desizing.
Oxidative Desizing.
Acid Steeping/Desizing.
Rot Steein.
Desizing with hot caustic soda treatment.
Hot washing with detergent.
Removable of water soluble sizes.
Atmospheric Plasma Desizing.
Enzymatic Desizing:
The hydrolysis of starch using enzymes under particular
concentration, temperature and duration is called enzymatic desizing.
Enzymatic desizing is the most widely experienced method to desize
the starch.
Advantages & Disadvantages:
Advantages:
No usage of aggressive chemicals: No damage to the fiber.
Wide variety of application processes.
Disadvantages:
Lower additional cleaning effect towards other impurities.
No effect on certain starches (e.g. tapioca starch).
Oxidative Desizing:
It is used to remove non-starch sizes that dont dissolve in water.
A variety of oxidants can be applied after padding the hydrogen per
oxide (H2O2) and steam for 2 to 3 minutes.
The advantages of oxidative desizing are supplementary cleaning effect,
effectiveness for tapioca starches but oxidizing agents may damage to
fibres.
Acid Desizing:
Cold solutions of dilute sulphuric acid (H2SO4) or hydrochloric acid
(HCl) are utilized to degrade starch and other sizes.
However this method has also disadvantage of bad affecting the
cellulosic fiber in cotton fabrics.
Lye (Caustic Soda) Desizing:
In this method fabric containing starch would be expanded under the
hot solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda -NaOH).
Caustic soda dissolves starch and form layer, can be separated.
Padding the fabric in alkali and stacked under 60 ~80 C for 6 to
12 hours, the desizing process can be finished.
Some Desizing Agents:
Ecolase LT
Finozyme -DX
Finocon FBOL
Enzme GT
Figure of desizing:
Scouring:
Scouring is the process by which all natural and additive impurities
such as oil, wax, fat, hand dust etc. are removed to produce
hydrophilic and clean textile material. It is one of the vital processes
of wet processing.
Objects of Scouring:
To make the fabric highly hydrophilic.
To remove impurities such as oils, waxes, gum, husks as nearly as
possible.
To increase absorbency of fabric or textile materials without physical
and chemical damage.
To produce a clean material by adding alkali. To make the fabric ready
for next process. To remove non-cellulosic substance in case of
cotton.
Scouring process depends on:
The type of Yarn.
The color of Yarn.
The cleanliness of Yarn.
The twist and count of the yarn.
The construction of the fabric.
The shade % and type of shade of finished product.
Objects of Scouring:
To make the fabric highly hydrophilic.
To remove impurities such as oils, waxes, gum, husks as nearly as
possible.
To increase absorbency of fabric or textile materials without physical
and chemical damage.
To produce a clean material by adding alkali. To make the fabric ready
for next process. To remove non-cellulosic substance in case of
cotton.
Scouring process depends on:
The type of Yarn.
The color of Yarn.
Good scouring
Uniform scouring
Uneven scouring
Bleaching:
Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural
coloring matter from the substrate. The source of natural color is organic
compounds with conjugated double bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the
discoloration takes place by the breaking the chromophore, most likely
destroying the one or more double bonds with in this conjugated system.
The material appears whiter after the bleaching.
The aim of bleaching can be described as following:
Type
of Bleaching Agents:
Oxidative Bleaching Agents
Reductive Bleaching Agents
Enzymatic Bleaching Agents
Mercerizing:
Mercerization is one of the most important finishing processes of
cotton with a strong caustic alkaline solution in order to improve the
lustre, hand and other properties. It imports gloss to the fiber,
increases its hygroscopicity, strength and improves its dye affinity.
Mercerizing improves the reactions with a variety of chemicals and
elongation of the fibres and also improves the stability of form.
Mercerizing process consists in treatment of cellulosic materials with
concentrated solutions of caustic soda at a temperature of 15 to
18C.
Purpose of mercerizing:
1.To improve the lusture.
2.To improve the strength.
3. To improve the dye uptake and moisture regain.
Effect of Mercerization:
Improve Luster.
Increase ability to absorb dye.
Improve reaction with a verity of chemicals.
Improve stability of form.
Improve strength/elongation.
Improve smoothness.
It has been shown that the increase in the luster occurs because of
an effect.
The cotton fiber do convoluted.
The cross-sectional shape changes.
Different mercerizing machinery/technology:
Knitted fabric mercerizing m/c.
Woven fabric mercerizing m/c.
Automatic hank yarn mercerizing m/c.
Chainlesss-padless mercerizing range.
Clip mercerizing m/c.
Open width fabric mercerizing m/c with caustic recovery unit.
Factors of Mercerizing:
In mercerizing followings are important:
Twaddle
Temperature
Tension
Time
Luster of yarn after mercerization: