Riga

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Riga
February - March 2015
THE OFFICIAL
TRAVEL GUIDE OF
The Left Bank
Experience the other

side of Riga
Latvian Cuisine
A crash course in
calories
inyourpocket.com
N113- FREE COPY
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
Gossip and rants from the editor
Arrival & Getting Around
10
How to get to your hotel
Riga Basics
16
Getting to grips with Riga
Culture & Events 18

Concerts, festivals and events
Restaurants & Cafs
32
From pork knuckle to sushi
Nightlife
56
An odd combination of wide-open green spaces, Soviet housing estates, charming 19th-century neighbourhoods and aging factories,
Prdaugava is a town within a city that has its own spirit, history and
traditions. Discover Rigas Left Bank on p.26. Photo of Uzavaras Park
by Mrti Zaprauskis
Bars, pubs and clubs
Hotels
Sightseeing
Beds for backpackers and business executives
70
List of small features
Museums, churches and the like
Shopping
80
Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres
Sports & Leisure
84
Bowling alleys, swimming pools and much more
Health & Lifestyle
88
86
Spas, doctors and other useful information
Learning Latvian
EU 2015
Riga for kids
Kalnciema Fair
Valentines Day
Our favourites
Service & Tipping
Menu decoder
Nightlife warning
A guide for beer snobs
Scams: tales from the trenches
Monumental heads
Latvian design
Italian portaits
Old Riga walking tour
Explore Latvia
The White & The Black
What to buy in Latvia
Hockey: Dynamo Riga
Maps & Index

If If youre looking for something light and healthy to eat, then
youve come to the wrong place. Pop your heart pills, pull out your
pocket defibrillator and get ready to get greasy with Latvian cuisine
on p.30. Photo by Mrti Zaprauskis
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Old Riga map

Riga city centre map
Venue index / Old Riga street register
Latvia map
17
21
23
29
36
42
44
52
58
64
69
72
75
76
77
78
79
83
84
95
96
98
99
Foreword
As the snow falls outside our window in large white flakes,
it appears that a proper Latvian winter has finally arrived in
Riga. This, of course, means that its time to don furry hats
and heavy boots to take advantage of the chilly environment outside. The city has its fair share of ice skating rinks
and even cross country tracks for skiing enthusiasts, but
more intrepid sportsmen can take a trip out to the countryside and experience one of Latvias small winter resorts.
But one of the best places to enjoy the snow and ice is right
across the river on the Left Bank known as Prdaugava. A
town within a city, this large expanse of parkland, residential housing and industrial landscapes is the subject of an
extensive feature on p.26. If youre more of an indoor type,
give yourself a crash course in Latvian cuisine on p.30 and
discover the wonderful world of pork parts and dill. Feeling a little romantic? Check out our feature on what to do
on Valentines Day on p.36. Whatever your interests, Riga In
Your Pocket has it covered this February and March.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
SIA Latvijas cevei
C I TY G U I D E S
Laipu 8 - 9a, LV-1050 Riga, Latvia
ISSN 1407-2335
Company Office & Accounts
Tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, riga@inyourpocket.lv,
www.inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot six times per year
Editorial
Editor Mrti Zaprauskis
Layout & Design Mrti Zaprauskis
Photography Mrti Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted.
Events and culture photos courtesy of various media groups
and concert organisers.
Cover Mrti Zaprauskis
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation

irts Upenieks, tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, girts@inyourpocket.lv
This issues cover features the illuminated railway bridge that

stretches across the River Daugava. The recently completed
national library, also known as
the Castle of Light, which can
be seen in the distance, will
host many of Latvias European
Presidency meetings. Although
security will be tight until July
its worth the effort to visit this new addition to Rigas
already impressive skyline.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright SIA Latvijas cevei. Maps copyright
SIA Karu izdevniecba Ja sta. All rights reserved. No part of
this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission
from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In
Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Social media
Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter
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Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving in Riga is fairly simple these days. The bus and train
stations are located right on the edge of Old Riga and the
airport is only a short cab or bus ride away. Money can be
changed wherever you land, but rates at banks and exchange booths will no doubt be better in Old Riga and the
city centre.
BY BUS
The first thing youll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal
or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00) are the impressive hangars of the Central Market to your right. Inside, LuxExpress
and Ecolines offices are located to your left as well as an
ATM, baggage room (0.60 for the first hour, 0.30 each
additional hour) and toilets for 0.30 (ask for paper). To
your right is the waiting room. A bar/cafeteria and a babychanging station are available upstairs. At the far end of
the hall is a bus information centre (open 08:00 - 21:00),
currency exchange and pharmacy. Outside youll find a
ticket machine where you can buy public transport tickets. Getting to town: trams N7 or 9 stop in front of the
bus station; ride it one stop into the centre (buy a 2 ticket
from the driver or a much cheaper 1.15 ticket at the Narvesen newsstand outside). To get there on foot, turn left,
walk through the underpass and follow the signs VecrgaVau iela into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously
dodgy, so either order a taxi by phone (see p.15) or use
public transport. QJ-3, Prgas 1, www.autoosta.lv.
BY CAR
Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations
and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land
borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the
border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require
time and patience. Happy trails! Q
BY FERRY
The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km north
of Old Riga. A bank machine and caf (09:00 - 18:30) are
available as well as a Tallink ticket office and a souvenir/alcohol shop. Getting to town: go right across the parking
lot in the direction of the ugly grey skyscraper. Old Riga is
just beyond it. Taxis are also available. QB-2, Eksporta 3a.
RIGA CARD
Tourists looking for a good deal can purchase the Riga
Card, which provides free use of public transport, free
admission or discounts at museums, specials on car
rental, discounts at restaurants, souvenir shops and
much more. The Riga Card also comes with a free copy
of Riga In Your Pocket and is available at major hotels,
tourist info centres, travel agencies and the airport.
Prices: 17/24hrs, 20/48hrs, 26/72hrs. Children under 16 half price. RC establishments in this guide are
given the following symbol: RC
Q Riga Card Office, tel./fax (+371) 67 21 72 17, info@
rigacard.lv, www.rigacard.lv.
TOURIST INFORMATION
LIVE RIGA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
The Live Riga information centre offers a wide range
of information in a variety of languages. The friendly
staff can assist with hotel bookings, tours and other
useful services. QI-2, Rtslaukums 6, tel. (+371) 67
03 79 00, info@rigatic.lv, www.liveriga.com. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Also at H-2, Kau 16, tel. (+371) 67
22 74 44; J-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), (+371) 67 22
05 55. A
BY PLANE
The airport (lidosta) is some 10km southwest of the Riga
city centre. Once youve got your bags and youve cleared
customs you can rent a car, change money, have a drink
at the Costa Coffee or visit the airport welcome centre in
the arrivals hall for information. A 24-hour baggage room
(1.42/half day) is available as well as ATMs and a post office (open 08:30 - 13:00; 14:00 - 17:00; closed Sat, Sun). If
youve departed from a non-Schengen country such as
Ireland, the UK, the US or Uzbekistan, you will arrive in a
different terminal at the north end of the airport building. Car rental and currency exchange are available here,
but you might want to leave the terminal, make a right
and then enter the Schengen arrival hall as it offers more
services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis will be
waiting for you outside the arrivals hall. A typical ride to
Old Riga or the city centre should cost no more than 15.
The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different locations
throughout the city, including Old Riga, the bus station,
the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and the Albert Hotel, for 5
every 30 minutes between 04:25 - 00:35. Bus N22 (get off
at Grcinieku iela for Old Riga or at Stockmann for the city
centre) costs 1.15 (2 if you buy a ticket from the driver)
and departs for the city centre roughly every 10 - 20 minutes. Exit the airport arrivals hall and walk across the parking lot to find the bus stop and ticket machine. QAirport,
www.riga-airport.com.
BY TRAIN
The train station (centrl stacija) has a spacious central
hall and many shopping and eating options. International
trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Central Hall (Centrl zle), under which are renovated pay
toilets (0.21 - ask for paper from the surly cashier) and a
baggage room (0.71 - 2.13/day), open 04:30 - 24:00. Exchange money at the currency exchanges (valtas maias)
in tunnels A and B, at the Citadele bank to the right of the
Central Hall when coming from the platforms, or at the
Swedbank to the left. There are several bank machines in
the terminal. The train information office is open 08:00 20:00. Getting to town: you are right beside Old Riga.
Turn left when leaving the station and head toward the
spire of St. Peters Church, then walk through the underpass and follow the signs 13. janvra iela and turn right
onto Aspazijas bulvris. QD-4, Stacijas laukums.
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Looking for cheap flights in Europe? Need to know how
much a tram or trolleybus costs? Want to know what time
a bus leaves for Tallinn or how to catch an overnight train
to Minsk? Read on.
AIRPORT
RIGA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (LIDOSTA)
Riga International Airport, known throughout the world as
RIX, lies some 10km southwest of the city. The Airport Express shuttle stops at 10 different hotels (including Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, Albert Hotel and Monika Centrum
Hotel) in the city centre and the left bank of the river (Islande Hotel and Maritim) every 30 minutes between 04:25
- 00:35. The trip costs 5. Bus N22 leaving from Grcinieku
iela will take you there for 1.15 (2 if you buy a ticket from
the driver). For departure times visit www.rigassatiksme.lv.
The airport has undergone major improvements over
the years including a new terminal for low cost airlines. A
TGIFridays is available at the far right of the airport and a
LIDO Latvian restaurant is open on the top floor of the main
terminal for those who want a last sip of a local beer or
who just cant stand airplane food. A sushi restaurant, a pizzeria and some local cafs are available on the other side of
the security checkpoint as well as a variety of duty free and
paid shops, including Victorias Secret and Furla. For more
information visit its comprehensive website.Qtel. (+371)
1817 (toll call)/(+371) 29 31 18 17 (toll call from abroad),
www.riga-airport.com.
AIRLINE OFFICES
AIRBALTIC
The Latvian national airline flies to dozens of destinations
throughout Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia.QAirport, tel. (+371) 90 00 11 00 (toll call)/(+371) 67 00 60
06 (from abroad), www.airbaltic.lv. Open 05:00 - 23:00.
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
Direct flights to Brussels.Qtel. (+371) 67 89 88 25, www.
brusselsairlines.com.
FINNAIR
Direct flights to Helsinki.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 20 70 10,
www.finnair.com.
LOT (POLISH AIRLINES)
Direct flights to Warsaw.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 20 71 13,
www.lot.com.
LUFTHANSA
Direct flights to Frankfurt.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 50 77
11, www.lufthansa.com.
NORWEGIAN
Norways low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo
and Trondheim as well as Stockholm and Copenhagen.
Qwww.norwegian.no.
RYANAIR
Europes leading budget airline now offers cheap direct
flights between Riga and Bremen, Dublin, Dusseldorf
(Weese), East Midlands (UK), Frankfurt (Hahn), Glasgow
(Prestwick), Leeds (Bradford), London (Stansted), Manchester, Milan (Bergamo) and Oslo (Rygge).Qwww.
ryanair.com.
*chargeable call
(+371) 29 311 817 calls from foreign countries,
AIRPORT INQUIRIES SERVICE


TURKISH AIRLINES
Direct flights to Istanbul and Antalya.QG-3, Merea 21,
tel. (+371) 67 35 94 44, www.turkishairlines.com. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WIZZ AIR
Flights to and from Barcelona, Bergen, Dortmund, Eindhoven (the Netherlands), London (Luton), Oslo (Torp), Paris
and Shefield.Qwww.wizzair.com.
CAR RENTAL
AUTO
Only 30 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also
be hired if you dont feel like sitting at the wheel. It also
offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited mileage and free
delivery to any Riga address.Qtel. (+371) 29 58 04 48,
janisosis@inbox.lv, www.carsrent.lv. Open 24hrs.
AUTORENTAL
This company specialises in Chrysler mini-vans with up to
nine seats, but it also offers cars , all of which can be delivered to any address in Riga. Rentals cost from as little as
20/day and baby seats are free of charge. AutoRental also
offers guide/driver services if you dont feel like taking the
wheel yourself.Qeguma 4, tel. (+371) 20 01 51 87, info@
rigacarrental.lv, www.rigacarrental.lv. A
AVIS
Avis rents all kinds of premium sedans including Audis,
Volkswagens, Opels and Toyotas as well as SUVs and minivans.QRiga Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 73 53, rix@avis.lv,
www.avis.lv. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun
09:30 - 20:30. Also at I-2, 11. novembra krastmala 29,
tel. (+371) 67 22 58 76. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat,
Sun. A RC
BUDGET
Budget offers a wide selection of new Volkswagens and
Toyotas of various classes for competitive prices.QI-2,
11. Novembra Krastmala 29, tel. (+371) 67 83 09 83,
budget@budget.lv, www.budget.lv. Open 08:30 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Riga Airport (Arrivals E),
tel. (+371) 67 20 73 27. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:30 19:30, Sun 09:30 - 20:30.
EGICARRENT
This car hire company specialises in Volvos including Volvo
S80s starting at as low as 27 per day. Free delivery to any
destination in Riga.Qtel. (+371) 29 53 10 44, fax (+371) 63
02 63 39, egicarrent@egi.lv, www.egi.lv. Open 24hrs. A
FERRIES
RIGA PASSENGER TERMINAL
If youre travelling to Riga with Tallink from Stockholm then
youll arrive here.QB-3, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 32 62
00, www.portofriga.lv.
TALLINK
Tallink provides regular ferry service between Riga and
Stockholm every other day.QB-2, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371)
67 09 97 00, www.tallinksilja.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A).
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
13

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
BUS SCHEDULE
From RIGA
Dep. Arr.
23:15 07:50
12:30 16:25
18:00 23:45
22:25 08:20
19:15 10:15
09:00 11:35
18:30 21:05
08:00 10:30
14:15 16:50
08:40 20:15
18:45 06:15
09:15 21:00
17:00 06:00
20:00 07:00
22:00 09:00
09:00 13:25
12:30 16:55
16:00 20:25
18:30 22:55
02:30 06:50
08:00 12:15
09:15 13:35
12:00 16:30
14:15 18:40
17:00 21:20
19:00 23:45
08:40 12:35
19:00 22:55
22:00 01:35
07:00 10:55
10:35 15:00
12:30 17:00
02:30 06:50
07:30 11:15
09:40 13:40
11:00 15:05
14:15 18:40
18:00 22:05
CITY
KALININGRAD**
KAUNAS**
KAUNAS**
MINSK**
MOSCOW**
PRNU*
PRNU*
PRNU**
PRNU**
ST. PETERSBURG*
ST. PETERSBURG*
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
ST. PETERSBURG**
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN*
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TALLINN**
TARTU*
TARTU**
TARTU**
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS*
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
VILNIUS**
To RIGA
Dep.
22:30
15:05
05:30
22:30
20:00
08:50
17:50
09:50
18:20
11:55
21:40
06:45
10:00
20:30
22:30
07:00
08:30
12:45
16:00
06:30
09:30
08:00
13:15
16:15
19:00
22:00
06:20
06:30
02:10
08:00
12:30
16:10
02:40
07:30
09:30
14:45
18:00
22:00
Arr.
07:15
18:50
11:45
06:40
09:45
11:25
20:25
12:25
21:00
21:35
07:00
17:55
21:00
06:00
10:35
11:25
12:55
17:10
20:25
10:35
13:55
12:25
17:55
21:00
23:15
02:20
10:15
10:30
06:00
12:25
17:00
20:30
06:40
11:45
13:55
18:45
21:55
02:20
* Lux Express ** ECOLINES

Local buses depart frequently to cities throughout
Latvia (www.autoosta.lv). Schedule subject to change.
BUS STATION (AUTOOSTA)

The bus station is open from 05:00 - 24:00. For information try the info centre (08:00 - 21:00) . Riga is linked to
major European cities in the East and West. The bus is
quicker and cheaper than the train but they often fill up
quickly, especially during the summer. Ticket counters
1 - 9 sell tickets to all local destinations. For buses to
Kyiv, Moscow and Western Europe visit the international ticket office or starptautisk kase next to the waiting
room or contact the following that also have offices on
the ground floor:QJ-3, Prgas 1, tel. (+371) 90 00 00 09,
www.autoosta.lv.
ECOLINES
As its name suggests, this company has been providing
affordable bus service to hundreds of cities in 18 European
countries since 1993. You can purchase a ticket at its service centres at the Riga Bus Terminal and in the city centre
on aka iela or save some time and receive a substantial
discount by ordering a ticket online at www.ecolines.
net. Most buses offer free coffee or tea onboard as well as
electrical sockets for recharging devices and free wi-fi.QJ3, Prgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 21 45 12, www.
ecolines.net. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at C-5, aka 45,
tel. (+371) 67 27 44 44. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. AW
LUX EXPRESS
Try its luxury express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius that include free wi-fi, coffee and tea, toilet and a lounge in the
back of the bus. Also operate routes to other cities in the
Baltics, Poland and Russia.QJ-3, Prgas 1 (Bus station),
tel. (+371) 67 78 13 50, www.luxexpress.eu/lv. Open
06:40 - 22:00. AW
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Riga has nine tram lines, 19 trolleybus routes and 53 bus routes
that operate from as early as
05:00 to as late as 01:00, depending on the route. You can
buy 1.15 tickets at designated
Riga Transport (Rgas Satiksme) ticket offices, at public
transport ticket machines or at Narvesen newsstands, post
offices and Rimi supermarkets. You can also buy a ticket
from the driver but it will cost you 2. Passengers have a
wide variety of ticket options including tickets for one
(1.15), two (2.30), four (4.60), five (5.75), 10 (10.90)
and 20 (20.70) rides or tickets good for one (5), three
(10) or five (15) days of travel.
The tickets are valid for trams, trolleybuses and city buses.
Press the ticket against the electronic ticket readers on the
bus or tram as soon as you board the vehicle. The green
light will flash and the display will show you how many
more rides are left on the card (e.g. Atlikums: 7).
Read more about routes and exact departure times in English on the Riga Transport Authoritys website www.rigassatiksme.lv. RC
PETROL STATIONS
TRAINS
DINAZ
24-hour petrol station, shop and toilets.QB-3, Hanzas
16b, tel. (+371) 67 33 34 84. Open 24hrs. Also at A-4,
Skanstes 7, tel. (+371) 67 37 35 58. A
STATOIL
Petrol stations with shops and toilets.QG-1, Eksporta 1c,
tel. (+371) 67 32 50 66, www.statoil.lv. Open 24hrs. Also
at A-5, K.Valdemra 104, tel. (+371) 67 36 08 13; A-6,
Brvbas 176a, tel. (+371) 67 31 69 48. A
CENTRAL STATION (CENTRL STACIJA)

Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in
the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance,
counters N1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold
at counters N1 to 6. For overnight trips to Minsk or St.
Petersburg choose the more luxurious coupe, four-bunk
compartments or, on the train to Moscow, the first class
SV, two-bunk compartments, with video and on-board
service. Do not confuse perons (the platform) and ce (the
track). They are numbered separately in Latvia and can be
quite confusing. Pietur means stops and nepietur means
doesnt stop, so if you see a train schedule with a list of
towns and cities in the margin, it is best to check whether
the train stops there or not.QD-4, Stacijas laukums, tel.
(+371) 1181, www.pv.lv. Open 05:00 - 24:00.
TAXIS
BALTIC TAXI
Run by the national airline airBaltic, this company is among
the most reliable in Riga.Qtel. (+371) 20 00 85 00, www.
baltictaxi.lv. Open 24hrs. A
LADY TAXI
Most of its pink cabs are driven by female drivers.Qtel.
(+371) 27 80 09 00, www.lady-taxi.lv. Open 24hrs. A
TOURS & TRAVEL

AREA TOURS
A jolly, English-speaking Latvian man will drive you anywhere in Latvia, Lithuania or Estonia with a car or van for as
long as you like. Make your own itinerary and drive! Available day or night. Recommended.Qtel. (+371) 29 58 04
48, janisosis@inbox.lv.
Snowy evening at the Central Station
M.Zaprauskis
15
Riga Basics
ALCOHOL
For a while Latvia had the dubious honour of holding the
record for the worlds drunkest person. In the summer
of 2012, a vagrant was found unconscious by police and
rushed to hospital where his blood test revealed an astounding 8.89 parts per mille of alcohol. Although we dont
suggest you attempt to break any records, we do hope you
enjoy a local drink in moderation while in Riga. Uavas and
Valmiermuias are among the nations best beers, but keep
your eye out for great craft brews by Labietis and Malduguns. The infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent liquor
that Latvians enjoy inflicting on tourists. Bars are open at all
hours, but alcohol is only sold in shops from 08:00 - 22:00.
COMMUNISM
Although Latvia was once an involuntary Soviet republic,
visitors should not come to Riga with high hopes of seeing
grand statues of Lenin and other objects from that bygone
era. Most of these monuments, which are viewed as symbols of oppression by Latvians, have been removed. A red
granite monument, once dedicated to the Latvian riflemen
who protected Lenin after the Revolution of 1917, still exists on Strlnieku laukums, but now honours all of the riflemen - Whites and Reds. Another monument, dedicated to
the Soviet liberation of Riga, is located on the other side of
the Daugava. Hammers and sickles can also be seen on the
wrought iron fence on A-B dambis near the Radisson Blu
Daugava Hotel.
LOCAL TIME
Latvia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (EET): GMT +2
hours. Correct time: tel. 82 154 (in Latvian and Russian).
MONEY
As of January 1, 2014, the Latvian national currency is the
euro. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are 1, 2, 5,
10, 20 and 50 euro cent coins as well as 1 and 2 euro coins.
Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20,
50, 100, 200 and 500. Because Latvia so recently switched
its currency, youll see prices at shops and restaurants in
both euro and lats until the end of March. There are currency exchange booths and ATMs everywhere. Most hotels,
restaurants and shops take credit and bank cards and weve
marked the establishments that accept them.
The river walk at the Speri warehouse district
M.Zaprauskis
Frosty figures on the Freedom Monument
M.Zaprauskis
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation havent given Latvians
much cause to celebrate, hence an acute lack of days off for
the working man. Pagan Midsummer celebrations are the
nations most popular holidays when locals head out to the
countryside for bonfires, beer and assorted fertility rites.
January 1-2
New Years Day (Jaungads)
April 18, 2014
Good Friday (Liel piektdiena)
April 20, 2014
Easter Sunday (Lieldienas)
April 21, 2014
Easter Monday (Otrs Lieldienas)
May 1
Labour Day (Strdnieku diena)
May 4
Independence day in 1990
June 23 - 24
Midsummer celebrations
(Lgo & Ji)
November 18
Independence day in 1918
Dec 24 - 26
Christmas (Ziemassvtki)
Dec 31
New Years Eve (Vecgada vakars)
POST
LATVIAN POSTAL SERVICE (LATVIJAS PASTS)
Send postcards, letters and packages, buy stamps and
public transport tickets or do what most locals do here
(hence the queues) and pay your utility bills. Take a number and have a seat.QH-3, Brvbas bulv. 32, tel. (+371) 67
50 28 15/(+371) 67 00 80 01, www.pasts.lv. Open 07:30 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas
laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 39 00. Open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
RELIGION
Latvians were among the last European peoples to accept
Christianity. Independent Latvian tribes still worshiped the
sun, wind, holy groves, rocks and the like until Teutonic zealots arrived at the close of the 12th century to save the Balts
from damnation. To this day, the pagan Midsummers Eve
celebration of Lgo and Ji, an ancient fertility festival, is
still the nations most popular holiday. Many Latvian Christians belong to Lutheran congregations and the countrys
Russian-speaking minorities are largely Orthodox Christians
while Catholicism is more popular in the Latgale region of
eastern Latvia. Jews were massacred in their thousands in
Latvia during the Holocaust, but a small Jewish community
still survives in Riga.
Riga Basics
ROADS
Latvia has some of the worlds worst drivers. Its not that
they cant steer or press the break pedal, although for
some reason Latvians cant master the art of parallel parking, its more likely a reckless streak that allows grown men
and women to act like children behind the wheel. Passing
on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ignored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend
to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out
Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating
an automobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind
that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory
ten-day jail sentence and a huge fine. The speed limit is
50km/h in towns, 90km/h on the open road and it is strictly
enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are not recommended.
Parking meters are all over Riga. Traffic police regularly
check parked cars so make sure you've paid at one of the
automatic ticket machines on city streets and don't forget
to place the receipt on your dashboard. Old Riga is now
accessible to nearly all motor vehicles, but the authorities
have made it impossible to drive from one end to the other
having divided the town into four different sections.
SCAMS
The growth of the local tourism industry has created countless new jobs for Latvians, but it has also spawned another
lucrative trade, which seems to be inevitable in Eastern Europe scams and rip-offs. While most bars and restaurants
are happy to welcome tourists into their establishments,
there are some rotten apples that will do anything to take
your money. Strip clubs, nightclubs and late night bars
seem to be the biggest culprits often taking advantage of
already inebriated patrons. Be wary of young attractive girls
on Lvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby bar. Youll be shocked to discover later that the barely
palatable bottle of wine you bought them costs 700 or
more. If you refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you
give them your PIN code. Other scams include taking your
credit card information and buying stuff online or charging
your card for much more than you purchased. Avoid seedy
bars and try to always pay in cash at nightclubs, even if they
seem reputable.
SMOKING
Latvians love to smoke and until the mid-2000s you could
see them lighting up almost anywhere, from barstools
in local pubs to hospital beds. But all that has changed.
Smoking is now banned in most public places including
restaurants, clubs and government buildings. The few establishments which have built completely separate smoking sections with proper ventilation systems have been
assigned a smoking symbol. Ironically, the government has
largely ignored the root causes of smoking, but new taxes
on cigarettes have brought the price of a pack of Marlboros
up to a little over 3.
LEARNING LATVIAN
Latvian is an Indo-European language (not Slavic) as
old as Lithuanian. It has six declensions and a lot of funny accents. Although the official language is Latvian,
you will easily get around with a command of Russian,
as half of the population of Riga is Russian-speaking,
and most Latvians do understand Russian. They will,
however, avoid it, except to swear, because Russians
have more colourful curses than Latvians. Latvians also
reshape foreign names to fit their language and add an
s to the end of all male names, i.e. Dastins Bbers (Justin Bieber). Females will get an a or an e on the end,
as with pop star, Mailija Sairusa (Miley Cyrus). But our
favourite is still Sids Viess. Hilarious!
Useful phrases
How are you?
K jums kljas?
Pleased to meet you. Prieks iepazties.
Do you speak English? Vai js runjiet angliski?
Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, caf, bar,
toilet?
Kur atrodas tuvkais veikals, viesnca, restorns, kafejnca, brs, tualete?
Whats your name?
K Js/tevi sauc?
My name is ...
Mani sauc ...
What time is it?
Cik ir pulkstenis?
How much does this cost? Cik tas maks?
Hello Labdien!
Hi Sveiks!
Good morning
Labrt!
Good evening
Labvakar!
Goodnight Arlabunakti!
Goodbye!
Uz redzanos!
Bye!
au! or At!
Yes
J
No
N
Cheers!
Priek!
Thank you
Paldies
Numbers
Days of the week
1 viens
Monday
pirmdiena
2 divi
Tuesday
otrdiena
3 trs
Wednesday
trediena
4 etri
Thursday
ceturtdiena
5 pieci
Friday
piektdiena
6 sei
Saturday
sestdiena
7 septii
Sunday svtdiena
8 astoi
9 devii
Street smarts
10
desmit
Street
iela
11 vienpadsmit
Road
ce
20
divdesmit
Square
laukums
21
divdesmit viens
Airport
lidosta
50
piecdesmit
Bus station
autoosta
100
simts
Train station
stacija
1000 tkstotis
Taxi taksis
17
Culture & Events

Perhaps the best aspect of Rigas cultural life is that worldclass performances are very affordable. Locals hold the opera and theatre in the highest esteem and make it a point
to attend often.
CINEMAS
FORUM CINEMAS
Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex
in Northern Europe. 14 viewing halls with 3200 seats are
available to film-goers not to mention the largest movie
screen in the Baltic-Scandinavian region.QI-3, 13. janvra
8, www.forumcinemas.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8). A
SPLENDID PALACE
Rigas first cinema offers an ornate old world interior that
makes for an interesting movie experience and its smaller new hall is also state of the art. It shows films from
around the globe as well as box office hits.QC-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 18 11 44, www.splendidpalace.
lv. (3 - 5).
CLUBS & OTHER VENUES

DEPO
Underground club thats a venue for indie, industrial and
experimental groups as wells as alternative, metal, punk,
ska and garage bands.QI-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01
14, www.klubsdepo.lv.
FOLK CLUB ALA
Local folk music concerts most days of the week.QI-2,
Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv.
LATERNU STUND
A small club for Latvian acts from pop and rock to folk and
country.QB-5, Brvbas 109 (entrance from Paldzbas),
tel. (+371) 25 14 88 44, www.laternustunda.lv. Open ,
Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
ETNOGRFISKAIS BRVDABAS MUZEJS)
This outdoor museum hosts a number of ethnographic
events, concerts and fairs throughout the year. Take
bus N1 from the corner of Merea and Trbatas to the
Brvdabas muzejs stop.QBrvbas gatve 440, tel. (+371)
67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 17:00. LK
Katy Perry will thrill fans with her unique brand of pop music on
March 15 at Arena Riga. Photo courtesy of FBI - www.fbi.lv
MUSIC & EVENTS

Feb
Date Time Event
St. Petersburg Jazz Stars.
2
19:00
17 - 22
Crib45 (Finland). Post
2
22:00
metal cocnert
Comedy Latvia: English
3
20:00 comedy night with international comedians. 4
The Sunburst (Italy). Alt5
22:00
rock, post grunge concert
Inquisition (Colombia),
Voltumna (Italya) &
11 20:00
Dominanz (Norway). Black
metal concert. 10 - 17
11 21:00 Skrillex DJ show. 30 - 59
Quadro Nuevo (Germany).
12 19:00 World music quartet.
25 - 50
SLSTAFIR (Iceland).
12 19:00 Alternative / hard / heavy
metal / rock. 20
PND (LV). Latvia's legend13 21:00
ary punk band. 4
Nite Fields (Australia).
14 22:00
Indie, shoegaze cocnert
12:00
Nike Training Day. Active
14
sports festival
18:00
16 19:30 Ed Sheeran (UK). 34 - 39
Sofia Rei (Argentina).
20 19:00 Ethno-jazz cocnert. 15
- 34
Latvian Blues Band &
21 21:00
Justina Lee Brown
Shaolin Monks Martial Arts
21 18:00
Evening. 7 - 20
First Blood (USA), Born
From Pain (Netherlands),
Always War (Sweden) & No
22 20:00
Second Thought (Finland).
Hardcore/metal concert.
12
Metei. Celebrate the Latvian pagan festival at the
22 12:00
Ethographic Museum with
singing and dancing
House of Saline (Norway).
23 22:00
Metalcore concert
Venue
MCT
DP
NK
DP
NK
SF
RCH
MP
NK
DP
AR
AR
RCH
LS
AR
NK
EM
DP
Culture & Events
24
25
27
27
20:30
22:00
21:00
22:00
Emir Kusturica and the No

Smoking Orchestra. The
best of Balkan music live
in Riga. 29 - 34
The Empire Strikes
(Finland). Garage rock
concert
Jarboe (USA) & Helen
Money (USA) and Alexander Hacke (formerly of
Einstuerzende Neubauten)
& Danielle de Picciotto.
12 - 17
Pienvedja Piedzvojumi
(LV). One of Latvia's best
punk groups
PR
13
15
DP
20
20
NK
DP
21
27 29
25
Mar
3
Adnre & Alicija. Sounds

and Voice Mystery and
19:00
Meditation concert. 15
- 25
Yann Tiersen (France).
20:30 Instrumental music concert. 34
27
AS
27
29
PR
29
Ottmar Liebert (Germany).

19:00 Nouveau flamenco cocnert. 9.50 - 31
19:30 Katy Perry. 49 - 85
Ad Glutton Night. The best
22:00 TV ads from around the
world. 40 - 60
Motherkissers (Italy).
22:00
Metal, alternative concert
Lord of the Dance. 25
19:00
- 100
Expo Beauty 2015. Fashion
trade fair at the Skonto
Hall: www.latexpo.lv
Bryan Adams - Reckless
20:00 30th Anniversary Tour.
35 - 59
Celtic Legends - Irish
19:30
Dance Live. 28 - 45
20:00 Macy Gray. 29 - 35
Anar Yusifov (violin). Sea19:00 sons - Time of Jazz. Vivaldi
with a jazz twist. 15 - 30
19:30 Vanessa Mae. 25 - 89
GG
AR
RCC
DP
AR
SH
AR
RCC
PR
GG
AR
19
Culture & Events

OPERA & BALLET
Feb
Date
1
4
5
Time
15:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
13:00
19:00
19:00
11
19:00
14
18:30
15
18:30
20
19:00
21
12:00
21
15:00
21
19:00
22
19:00
25
19:00
26
19:00
27
19:00
28
19:00
Tickets cost 4 - 40
Event
La Traviata, opera, Verdi
Giselle, ballet, Adam
Aida, opera, Verdi
Three Meetings. Three of
Latvia's best composers
are interpreted by some of
the world's best choreographers
Rigoletto, opera, Verdi
The Nutcracker, ballet,
Tchaikovsky
The Nutcracker, ballet,
Tchaikovsky
Snow White and the Seven
Dwarfs, ballet, Prauli
Swan Lake, ballet, Tchaikovsky
Mikhail and Mikhail Play
Chess, opera, Ptersons
Mikhail and Mikhail Play
Chess, opera, Ptersons
Premiere. Manon Lescaut,
opera, Puccini
In the World of Ballet. Latvian ballet talents reveal
their secrets (in Latvian)
In the World of Ballet. Latvian ballet talents reveal
their secrets (in Latvian)
Manon Lescaut, opera,
Puccini
Puccini
La Bayadre, ballet,
Minkus
Il Trovatore, opera, Verdi
Romeo and Juliet, ballet,
Prokofiev
Valentina, opera, Artrs
Maskats
Venue
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OPN
The Sound of Music.

12:00 Classic musical for young
and old
15:00
4
5
19:00
19:00
19:00
OPN
19:00
OP
15:00
11
19:00
12
13
19:00
19:00
14
19:00
15
12:00
15
19:00
18
19:00
22
12:00
27
19:00
28
19:00
29
15:00
OPN
OPN
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
Mar
1
An opera or ballet performance at the Latvian National Opera is one

of the highlights of a trip to Riga. Photo of Rossinis classic The Barber
of Seville courtesy of the Latvian National Opera - www.opera.lv
OPN
Sleeping Beauty, ballet,

Tchaikovsky
Messiah, ballet, Hndel
Rigoletto, opera, Verdi
The Fountain of Bakhchisaray, ballet, Asafiev
La Bohme, opera, Puccini
La Bayadre, ballet,
Minkus
The Marriage of Figaro,
opera, Mozart
Copplia, ballet, Delibes
Aida, opera, Verdi
Romeo and Juliet, ballet,
Prokofiev
Karlsson Flies..., fantasy
ballet for children, Karlsons
Karlsson Flies..., fantasy
ballet for children, Karlsons
Puccini
The Sound of Music.
Classic musical for young
and old
Premiere. Raymonda, ballet, Glazunov
Raymonda, ballet,
Glazunov
The Barber of Seville,
opera, Rossini
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OP
OPN
OP
OP
OP
Culture & Events

LATVIAN NATIONAL
LIBRARY
Also know as the Castle of Light,
the new building of the Latvian
National Library hosts a number
of exhibitions.QE-3, Mkusalas
3, www.lnb.lv.
MELN PIEKTDIENA
(BLACK FRIDAY)
The only club in Riga dedicated
to heavy metal music is located
within the brick walls of an old
factory next to the VEF Bridge. One of the UKs hottest
Take tram N6 from Barona to stars will entertain fans this
the VEF stop.QBrvbas 193c, February. Watch Ed Sheeran
tel. (+371) 29 87 94 75, www. perform at Arena Riga on
February 16. Photo courtesy
melnapiektdiena.lv.
of LTips Agency
NABAKLAB
This is a student favourite that regularly hosts ska, rock
and punk music concerts.QH-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12,
www.nabaklab.lv.
RIGA CIRCUS (RGAS CIRKS)
Built in 1888, the Riga Circus is one of the oldest institutions of its kind in Europe and is the only permanent
circus in the Baltics. Both young and old are entertained
here year round with exciting shows that include worldclass performers from clowns, jugglers and magicians to
illusionists, acrobats and animal acts. See its website for
upcoming events.QC-4, Merea 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 34
79, www.cirks.lv. Box office open 10:00 - 19:00.
SAPU FABRIKA
Industrial-style venue for anything from rock to rap concerts. Headliners have included The White Stripes, Morrissey and Air.QD-5, Lpla 101, tel. (+371) 67 28 12 22,
www.sapnufabrika.lv.
UNIVERSITY OF LATVIA
Latvias largest university occasionally hosts conferences,
events and concerts in its main hall.QH-3, Raia bulvris
19, tel. (+371) 67 03 44 44, www.lu.lv.
Ethnojazz diva Sofia Rei (Argentina) will perform at the Riga Concert
Hall on February 20. Photo courtesy of tradehub.info
EU 2015
On January 1, 2015 Latvia
assumed the Presidency of
the Council of the European
Union for six months. The
Council represents the governments of the member
states and is responsible for
coordinating policies across
the union. The six-month
Presidency of the Council rotates among the members and is not simply a
ceremonial position as it is tasked with representing
the Council when dealing with other EU institutions.
The Presidency is also expected to plan and chair the
Councils meetings in Brussels and in the host nation,
in this case Latvia.
This small nation of 2 million people has been
planning for this momentous undertaking for years
and many events, both cultural and political, will take
place in the Latvian capital, especially at the recently
completed Latvian National Library (E-2/3, Mkusalas
3, www.lnb.lv) also known as the Castle of Light. Although this impressive modern structure overlooking
the River Daugava is hard to miss, in the spring it will
be even more recognisable as 17,000 red and white
tulips have been planted outside the building, which
will form the EU presidency logo when in full bloom.
The tulips, not surprisingly, are a gift from the Netherlands. The nations ambassador to Latvia commented:
We are proud to give a touch of Dutch to the Latvian
Presidency. For a full list of EU Presidency related events
visit www.eu2015.lv.
EU 2015 Events
Venue
The Book 1514 - 2014. An exhibition
of rare books to illustrate the 500-year
LNL
development of the book
Design Manifestation / Reputation. An
exhibition of contemporary works of
LNL
Latvian design that have received awards
abroad
Design Manifestation / Humanisation. An
exhibition of Latvian design in daily life.
MAD
On display until 29.03
Two centuries of Italian portrait painting.
RBM
1580 -1780
Design Manifestation / Information. An
exhibition of Latvian graphic design. On
LAA
display from 05.03 - 29.03
Multimedia project #mindpower. Watch
a new European short film every week
until the end of June at facebook.com/
mindpower2015
21
Culture & Events

SAXOPHONIA 2015
Feb
Date
12
19:00
15
18:00
18
19:00
21
19:00
21
19:00
22
18:00
More information at
www.saxophonia.lv
Event
Venue
Festival opening concert
with Philippe Geiss
(saxophone), the Riga
Saxophone Quartet and
the Liepja Symphony
GG
Orchestra. Programme:
Rihards Zaupe's Concerto
for Saxophone Quartet
and Orchestra
The Xylem Trio. Programme: Argentinian
SK
folk melodies, music and
rhythms. 15
The Latvian Radio Big
Band and Marius Neset
RCC
(Norway). 10 - 25
A concert with the winners
of the Riga Jazzz Stage
Competition.Programme:
SK
Turkish jazz and original
jazz compositions. 12
Sacred music concert with
the Riga Saxophone QuarSJC
tet, the State Choir Latvia
and others. 7 - 20
The Bl!ndman Saxophone
Quartet (Belgium) and the RCH
Radio Latvia Choir. 7 - 20
CONCERT HALLS
ARENA RIGA
A venue for both sporting events like the Continental
Hockey League and large concerts. Performers have included Placebo, Muse and the Sex Pistols.QA-4, Skanstes
21, tel. (+371) 67 38 82 00, www.arenariga.com.
DAUGAVA STADIUM (DAUGAVAS STADIONS)
Although its often used as a football pitch, the Daugava
Stadium also hosts the Latvian Dance Festival every five
years.QC-6, Augiela 1, tel. (+371) 67 84 48 00, www.
daugavasstadions.lv.
GREAT GUILD (LIEL ILDE)
Home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra.QH-2,
Amatu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv.
PSALA HALL
A large venue for trade fairs and concerts on the left bank
of the river.QC-2, psalas 8, tel. (+371) 67 06 50 00,
www.bt1.lv.
OLD ST. GERTRUDES CHURCH (VEC SVTS
ERTRDES BAZNCA)
This beautiful neo-Gothic church in the city centre occasionally also hosts concerts.QB-4, ertrdes 8, tel.
(+371) 67 27 57 07, www.gertrude.lv.
PALLADIUM RGA
A former cinema has been converted into a concert hall
by the same people who organise the annual Positivus
Festival.QC-4/5, Marijas 21 (entrance from Prses), tel.
(+371) 67 28 45 16, www.palladium.lv.
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNCA)
The destination for world-class organ concerts. Tickets can
be purchased here at the ticket counter.QH-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv.
RIGA CONCERT HALL
This concert hall is located in the grand Soviet-style auditorium of the Academy of Sciences building.QD-4,
Akadmijas laukums 1, koncertzaleriga.lv.
RIGA CONGRESS CENTRE (RGAS KONGRESU
NAMS)
A large venue for dance concerts, musicals, plays and of
course conferences.QF-2, Valdemra 5, tel. (+371) 67 04
36 78, www.kongresunams.riga.lv.
SMALL GUILD (MAZ ILDE)
Popular venue for small concerts and events.QH-2, Amatu 3/5, tel. (+371) 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza.
VENUES
Canadian rocker Bryan Adams will entertain fans with his Reckless
30th Anniversary Tour at Arena Riga on March 25. Photo courtesy of
LTips Agency
AR - Arena Riga
DP - Depo Nightclub
EM - Ethnographic Museum GG - Great Guild
LNL - National Library
LS - Laternu Stund
MP - Meln Piektdiena
NK - Nabaklab
OP - Opera House
PR - Palladium Riga
RC - Riga Cathedral
RCC - Riga Congress Center RCH - Riga Concert Hall
SJC - St. Johns Church
SK - Speri Concert Hall
ZB - Ziemeblzma Culture House
Culture & Events

SPERI
The national chamber orchestra Sinfonietta Riga performs
at this chic renovated warehouse behind the Central Market.QD/E-4, Maskavas 4, korp. 2/3, tel. (+371) 67 21 50
18, www.sinfoniettariga.lv.
ST. JOHNS CHURCH (JA BAZNCA)
This functioning 13th-century church also hosts concerts
now and again.QI-2, Skru 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28,
www.janabaznica.lv.
ZIEMEBLZMA CULTURE PALACE
(ZIEMEBLZMAS KULTRAS PILS)
This historic, recently renovated building on the outskirts
of Riga hosts all kinds of concerts. The easiest way to get
there by public transport is to take a Carnikava, Skulte or
Saulkrasti bound train from the Riga station five stops
to the Ziemeblzma station.QZiemeblzmas 36, tel.
(+371) 67 84 88 49, ziemelblazma.riga.lv.
GALLERIES
ARSENLS EXHIBITION HALL
Under the umbrella of the Latvian National Museum of Art,
this exhibition hall specialises in local and international
contemporary art projects and events.QH-1, Tora 1, tel.
(+371) 67 35 75 27, www.lnmm.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00,
Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: 3.56 (Thursdays 1.42).
BASTEJS
QI-2, Alksnja 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 50 50, www.bastejs.lv.
Open 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
DAUGAVA
QI-2, Alksnja 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 21 28 96, www.
galerijadaugava.lv. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.
KIM?
This gallery displays works by contemporary and up-andcoming local and international artists. See its website for
information on exhibitions.QD/E-4, Maskavas 12/1, tel.
(+371) 67 22 33 21, www.kim.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Tue
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ART & DESIGN
(DEKORATVI MKSLAS UN DIZAINA MUZEJS)
Its actually a museum but you can buy crafts from local
artists here.QI-2, Skru 10/20, tel. (+371) 67 22 78 33,
www.lnmm.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon.
PUTTI
An art gallery that specialises in jewellery and fashion.
QI-2, Mrstau 16, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 29, www.putti.lv.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
RIGA ART SPACE
A multifunctional space for contemporary art exhibitions
and even music concerts run by the city of Riga.QI-2, Kungu 3, tel. (+371) 67 18 13 30, www.artspace.riga.lv. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.85.
STIKLA GALERIJA (GLASS GALLERY)
QH-2, Laipu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 95 29, www.
stiklagalerija.lv. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
RIGA FOR KIDS

Eating out Finding child-friendly restaurants and cafs
in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but a few
have realised that providing a play area for children
can actually add to their bottom line. Vairk Saules
(C-4, Dzirnavu 60, www.vairaksaules.lv) offers a kids
menu and all the legos a child could ever want and
T.G.I.Fridays (I-2, Kau 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 71) offers
colouring books and a kids menu.
Educational trips The Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Brvbas gatve 440, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv) is
a great place for kids. Not only can children learn about
Latvian customs and rural living, but they can also see
people in period costume performing various tasks like
shaping iron at the blacksmiths. The Riga National Zoo
(www.rigazoo.lv) in Meaparks is also always a good
option and kids can paint their own plaster suns at
the Sun Museum (I-3, Vau 30, www.saulesmuzejs.
lv). You can also combine a shopping outing with some
kids fun at Zili Brnumi (C-4, Dzirnavu 67 - 6th floor,
www.zilibrinumi.lv). This fascinating childrens centre in
the Galleria Riga shopping centre offers a number of
interactive exhibits that teach kids about science and
the natural world in an interesting way. The little ones
can also take a look at St. Peters rooster through a telescope or take advantage of the play room thats filled
with wooden development toys. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
Just for fun Lvu Akvaparks (Jrmala, Lielupe, Viestura 24, www.akvaparks.lv) offers a wave pool, a childrens
pool, six water slides and a tubing river guaranteed to
keep the kids happy all day long. Parents can have a
drink at the swim-up cocktail bar. The giant Lido Leisure Centre (Krasta 76, www.lido.lv) also has plenty to
offer including ice skating and lots of childrens attractions. The Riga Circus (D-4, Merea 4) is also an option.
Visit www.cirks.lv for show times. For bowling, swimming pools and other activities for the whole family see
Sports & Leisure.
Legendary Balkan music maestro Emir Kusturica and his No Smoking Orchestra will perform at Palladium Riga on February 24. Photo
courtesy of LTips Agency
23
Culture & Events

CLASSICAL MUSIC
Feb
Date Time Event
Venue
Cinema Night with
Granny. Latvian National
Symphony Orchestra. Pro6
19:00 gramme: Giya Kancheli's
GG
Symphony No. 5 and Kote
Miqaberidzes silent movie
My Grandmother
The Princeton High School
Choir (USA) and the Choir
10 19:00
LAM
of Riga State Gymnazium
Nr.2
Gems of Russian Music II.
Latvian National Sympho13 19:00 ny Orchestra. Programme:
GG
Karmanov, Shostakovich
and Prokofiev
Labyrinth. Baroque
music performed by Ilze
Reine (organ) and Ainrs
RC
14 19:00
Paukns (viola da gamba). Programme: J.S.Bach,
G.Bhm, M.Marais. 7 - 15
The History of Piano
Trio. Programme: Bach,
15 15:00 Beethoven, Ravel, ShostaOP
kovich, Drzi and many
others
From Paris with Love.
French melodies about
15 19:00 love featuring the Riga
GG
Symphonic Orchestra.
10 - 20
Notturno. LNSO Chamber
19 19:00
GG
Beethoven, MendelssohnBartholdy and Schubert
20
26
27
27
Sinfonietta Riga. Programme: G.F.Handel's

Oratorio Israel in Egypt.
10
The Latvian National
Symphony Orchestra
19:00
performs Beethoven's 5th
Symphony
Latvia's New Chamber
19:00
Musicians
Sinfonietta Riga.
19:00 Programme: Beethoven,
Brahms and Bartk. 7 - 25
19:00
SJC
GG
ZB
GG
Mar
6
19:00
19:00
19:00
12
19:00
13
19:00
15
19:00
17
19:00
19
19:00
20
19:00
Trip to America. The Latvian National Symphony

Orchestra performs Bernstein, Ives and Copland
Wine and Music: Georgia.
Discover Georgian music
while tasting Georgian
wine. 25
The Logos Latvian Orthodox Church mens choir
Gems of Russian Music
III. The Latvian National
Symphony Orchestra
performs Rachmaninoff
and Shostakovich
Gems of Russian Music
III. The Latvian National
Symphony Orchestra
performs Rachmaninoff
and Shostakovich
Adagio with the DD
H.Purcell, P.Vasks, R.Dubra,
J.irsis. 7 - 15
Vladimir Spivakov and the
Moscow Virtuosos chamber orchestra (Russia).
65 - 125
Gidon Kremer (violin) and
the Kremerata Baltica
orchestra. Programme:
A.Piazolla and A.Maskats.
20 - 60
The LNSO and R.Zaupe
perform Debussy, Koppel
and Zaupe
GG
SK
RC
GG
GG
RC
GG
GG
GG
Dont miss Verdis Rigoletto at the Latvian National Opera on February

7 or March 5. Photo courtesy of the Latvian National Opera - opera.lv
Culture & Events

OPERA & THEATRES
LATVIAN NATIONAL OPERA (LATVIJAS
NACIONL OPERA)
A magnificent venue for opera, ballet and international
performing artists.QH-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. (+371) 67
07 37 77, www.opera.lv.
LATVIAN NATIONAL THEATRE
A beautiful building that is home to performances of traditional plays and musicals.QG-1, Kronvalda bulv. 2, tel.
(+371) 67 00 63 00, www.teatris.lv.
MIKHAIL CHEKHOV RIGA RUSSIAN THEATRE
As the name would suggest, theatre in Russian.QH-2,
Kalu 16, tel. (+371) 67 22 53 95, www.trd.lv.
NEW RIGA THEATRE (JAUNAIS RGAS TETRIS)
Local theatre performances with an avant-garde flavour.
QC-5, Lpla 25, tel. (+371) 67 28 07 65, www.jrt.lv.
TICKETS
American R&B and soul singer Macy Gray will perform her hits old
and new at Palladium Riga on March 27. Photo courtesy of FBI www.fbi.lv
20
19:00
21
19:00
25
19:00
26
19:00
27
19:00
27
19:00
28
19:00
Larisa Bulava (Organ). Programme: Bach. 7 - 15

Maestro - Piano - Riga. An
evening with composer
Raimonds Pauls
For the Deported memorial concert. with Sonora
Vaice (soprano), Ingus
Ptersons (tenor), the Riga
Symphonic Band and the
Ave Sol Chamber Choir.
Invitation only
The 3 + 1 String Quartet
performs Beethoven,
E.Granados, Schubert and
J.Turina
Georgijs Osokins (piano).
Programme: Chopin.
5 - 25
J.S.Bach organ music cocnert with Aigars Reinis and
Ieva Ezeriete (soprano).
7 - 15
Sinfonietta Riga and
Olli Mustonen (piano/
conductor). Programme:
Olli Mustonen, Mozart,
Shchedrin and Prokofiev.
7 - 25
RC
GG
RC
TICKET PARADISE (BIEU PARADZE)

Tickets to mostly Latvian events such as concerts, festivals and theatre productions.QG-1, Kronvalda bulv.
2 (National Theatre), tel. (+371) 90 00 20 00, www.
bilesuparadize.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00. Also at the box offices of the Opera (H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3), Daile Theatre (B-4, Brvbas 75) and Puppet
Theatre (C-4, Barona 16/18). A
TICKETPRO
Tickets to all manner of concerts and events in Riga and
Latvia.QC-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga), tel. (+371) 67
30 70 00, www.ticketpro.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
TICKET SERVICE (BIEU SERVISS)
You can buy tickets to major concerts by international stars
online or at one of its many outlets around Riga.QI-3, 13.
janvra 8 (Stockmann - top floor), www.bilesuserviss.lv.
Open 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Statoil petrol stations. A
GG
GG
RC
GG
Nouveau flamenco musician Ottmar Liebert (Germany) will perform
at the Great Guild on March 13. Photo courtesy of tradehub.info
25
Prdaugava:
Rigas Left Bank
SOVIET MONUMENTS, BUSTLING MARKETS AND
TRENDY CAFS. DISCOVER THE OTHER SIDE OF
THE LATVIAN CAPITAL
Prdaugava
Rigas visitors are happy to stroll through its medieval old
town and admire its stunning art nouveau city centre, but
seldom do they cross over to the River Daugavas left bank,
unless of course theyre on their way to the airport. An odd
combination of wide-open green spaces, Soviet housing
estates, charming 19th-century neighbourhoods and aging factories, Prdaugava, as its known in Latvian, or Over
Daugava to translate literally, is often a hard place to get
your bearings. However, those intrepid travellers who are
brave enough to walk across a bridge or take a short tram
ride will discover a town within a city that has its own spirit,
history and traditions.
GETTING THERE
The best way to get to Prdaugava is either to walk across
the Vanu or Akmens bridges or to take trams, especially
during rush hour. For the Railway Museum, Soviet Victory Monument, Arcadia Park, the Monument to the Repressed and the Riga Luther Church take tram N10. For the
genskalns Market and many of the restaurants and bars
concentrated in that neighbourhood take tram N2. For
Kalnciema kvartls take tram N4 or 5.
SIGHTS
GENSKALNS MARKET (GENSKALNA TIRGUS)
Although construction of Rigas third largest market began in 1911, due to WWI it wasnt completed until 1923.
Since then this red brick building has become the focal
point of the local community. Its home to numerous stalls
selling anything from pork and poultry to dairy products
and fresh vegetables. Unfortunately, the years have not
been kind to this historic landmark and a general feeling
of depression seems to reside in its halls. Take the stairs to
the second floor for great views of the bustle below and
cheap food and drink at the caf.QE-1, Nometu 64, tel.
(+371) 67 61 15 49. Open 07:30 - 18:00.
GENSKALNS WATER TOWER (GENSKALNA
DENSTORNIS)
This stunning water tower dating from 1910 was the
brainchild of prolific architect Wilhelm Bockslaff. Riga was
experiencing a golden age of construction and development at the time, so it was created, not surprisingly, to
provide fresh drinking water to an exploding population.
The impressive structure rises to a height of 40m and has
2m-thick brick walls, as well as a stylised version of Rigas
coat of arms above the entrance. It was also used as an
underground recording studio called Tornis from 1991 2010.QD-1, Alses 4.
ARCADIA PARK (ARKDIJAS PARKS)

Created at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, this
pleasant park is divided by the meandering Mrupte river which was diverted for the project. A restaurant building and an amphitheatre were part of the original park
but were burned down over the years by vandals and
never restored. Today, you can follow the course of the
river and feed ducks from its banks or take in the view
from the top of the hill. Take tram N10 from Grcinieku
to the Arkdijas parks stop.QBetween O. Vciea and F.
Brvzemnieka.
CASTLE OF LIGHT - NATIONAL LIBRARY (GAISMAS PILS - NACIONL BIBLIOTKA)
The Latvian National Library is the brainchild of AmericanLatvian architect Gunnar Birkerts, who is perhaps best
known for his creations in the United States which include
the Corning Museum of Glass in New York State and the
Law Library Building at the University of Michigan. Its
shape is a symbolic expression of the Hill of Glass and the
Castle of Light found in Latvian folklore. Legend has it that
the Castle of Light sank into an ancient lake and would
only arise from the depths when Latvians were once again
masters of their own land. The building is finally open to
the public and it hosts a variety of exhibitions and events.
QE-3, Mkusalas 3, tel. (+371) 67 80 61 10, www.lnb.lv.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH OF PRDAUGAVA (SV.
TRIJDBAS BAZNCA)
Although an older church dating back to 1453 once stood
here, the current 17th-century Russian baroque-style
building was completed in 1893. Designed in the shape
of the Orthodox cross, its soaring belfry and blue and
green onion domes can be seen from quite a distance. Inside youll find the smell of incense and hundreds of icons
common to Orthodox churches.QD-1, Mea 2, tel. (+371)
67 61 20 79.
LATVIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
DZELZCEA MUZEJS)
Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum
run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzce). Inside the brick
hangar youll find old photographs, antiquated machines
and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside you can look
at restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives built in
Ukraine and Russia as well as a German locomotive built in
1942 that no doubt became a spoil of war. Dont miss the
Tsarist era prison car.QE-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 23
28 49, www.railwaymuseum.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1.42.
27
Prdaugava
SOVIET VICTORY MONUMENT (UZVARAS
PIEMINEKLIS)
The Soviet war memorial which commemorates the supposed communist liberation of Riga is the place to meet die
hard reds on Soviet anniversary days. Built in 1985 to lionise
the Red Army and to dishearten the Latvian populace, the
monument consists of a tall concrete obelisk adorned with
five golden stars symbolising the five years of WWII. On either side are bronze statues of Mother Russia and soldiers
advancing with their weapons raised. Take tram N5 from 11.
Novembra krastmala to the second stop over the Akmens
Bridge.QE-2, Over the Akmens Bridge in Prdaugava.
ANIS LIPKE MEMORIAL MUSEUM
This modern, interactive museum designed by a prominent
local architect tells the little-known tale of anis Lipke and
the network of roughly 25 people that saved Jews from the
Nazis during the German occupation of Latvia. Not only did
he hide people in a bunker on his own land that now hosts
this museum, but he and his colleagues also helped Jews to
escape local ghettoes and then transported them to safe
houses around the country. Although Mr. Lipke and his wife
Johanna survived this noble undertaking, other members of
the underground were caught and killed. A free audio guide
will help you navigate the half light of the museum, which
is left intentionally dark to mimic the conditions endured by
families hiding in bunkers and warehouses.QC-2, Mazais
Balasta dambis 8, tel. (+371) 67 20 25 39, www.lipke.lv.
Open 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission: donations.
FOOD & DRINK

CIEMAKUKULIS
You can order unique cakes and traditional Latvian pastries for special occasions or just drop by for an espresso
and an clair in this cosy space decorated with antiques,
dried flowers, potted plants and books. If youre hungry you can also buy a sandwich and the soup of the
day. In case youre wondering, a ciemakukulis is basically
something, usually bread, a cake or anything edible, that
Latvians bring with them when visiting friends or relatives.QD-1, Nometu 9, tel. (+371) 22 08 83 33, www.
ciemakukulis.lv. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TASW
FAZENDA
The rooms of this historic building have only partially been
restored as the designers decided to simply sand down
the existing wood plank walls and ceilings to create a cosy
atmosphere that is only enhanced by the tile mosaic tables, the fireplace and the hanging dried flowers. You can
sit down for a full meal of international dishes from salads
and seafood to steaks or try something from the vegetarian menu or the breakfast meals (served until 12:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00). You can also just grab a slice of cake and a latte
at the counter.QD-1, Nometu 7, tel. (+371) 67 61 61 96,
www.fazenda.lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (4 - 11). AIW
The genskalns Water Tower
M.Zaprauskis
HOTE
This cafeteria on the ground floor of the enormous Swedbank skyscraper on the left bank of the river offers four
different food stations: healthy, trendy (where meals are
cooked to order), original and economical. Queue up with
dozens of well-dressed bankers and take your pick of affordable international cuisine with a twist. The views of
Old Riga across the river are sublime, which is why the
space is also available for parties and events.QD-2, Balasta dambis 1a, tel. (+371) 20 00 90 45, www.hote.lv.
Open 08:00 - 17:00. (4 - 7). AW
MJA
This wonderful restaurant occupies a beautifully restored
19th-century wooden cottage in the trendy Kalnciema
kvartls. Inside is an authentic interior of oak floors, chandeliers, tile fireplaces and walls decorated with nostalgic
black and white Soviet era photos of people enjoying life.
The refined Latvian and international cuisine, which is eaten with real silverware, is superb and anything from venison carpaccio and moose meat burgers to New Zealand
lamb was available when we visited.QD-1, Kalnciema 375, tel. (+371) 67 61 63 04, www.restoransmaja.lv. Open
11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 18). AIL
MENE (THE NUN)
Come inside the Nun for faux rock walls, chunky wooden tables and a good selection of incredibly cheap local beer. The
illustrated menu offers Armenian and Latvian cuisine from
succulent meats grilled outside under a canopy of smoke
to pork knuckle, herring and grey peas with bacon. If youre
enjoying a night out on the town try the appetiser platter for
real men consisting of smoked meat, pork fat, onions, gherkins and two shots of vodka.QE-1, Nometu 58, tel. (+371)
67 61 83 80. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7). AIE
NOMETNE
This cosy, yet stylish caf in an up-and-coming neighbourhood offers a smart interior that includes lots of live greenery, an impressive library, plenty of natural light from its large
windows and exposed brick walls covered in paintings and
antique maps of Riga. You can order refined cuisine from duck
breast to black pasta with mussels or drop by for brunch until 15:00 on Saturdays and Sundays.QE-1, Nometu 18, tel.
(+371) 27 54 48 18. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (5 - 15). AW
Prdaugava
VAIRK SAULES
This small Mediterranean-style bistro located near the
genskalns Market is part of the Vairk Saules chain of
restaurants. The menu is similar to its other establishments but places a larger emphasis on pastas and vegetable dishes including an excellent salad bar. The staff
is friendly and the whitewashed walls, tile floor and blue
and white wooden furniture is the perfect antidote to a
dreary, grey Riga day. Extras include a good selection of
Italian wines and take away coffee.QE-1, Mrupes 3, tel.
(+371) 67 42 03 72, www.vairaksaules.lv. Open 10:00 21:00. (5 - 9). AS
VINILBRS
This small Latvian bar next to the popular Kalnciems
creative quarter is not only decorated with lighting
fixtures made from vinyl records, but the entire musical soundtrack emanates from two modern turntables. Thats right. Your mp3s are as useless as cassettes
or 8-track tapes here, so leave your digital devices behind and sip affordable cocktails and beer inside or on
the large summer terrace with locals. Board games are
available and you can ask the barman to put on your
favourite album. Sadly, someone chose ABBA when
we dropped by.QD-1, Kalnciema 39, tel. (+371) 67
61 88 61.
SHOPS
SKRVERU SALDUMI (PLMES OKOLDE)
Skrveru saldumi make one of Latvias most delicious
sweets, which is known as a gotia or little cow. Its basically a sweet, semi-soft cream-based candy available in
a variety of flavours, but we prefer the original or classic ones. Chocolates and other sweets are also available
here.QD-1, Kalnciema 32a, tel. (+371) 67 32 74 22,
www.skriverusaldumi.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
SPICE
This huge shopping mall seems to grow even larger every month. All of the usual shops are available as well
as a supermarket (09:00 - 23:00), a large food court and
a huge LIDO cafeteria with a vast indoor childrens playground. Take bus No.43 from 13.janvra iela to the Spice
stop.QLielirbes 29, tel. (+371) 67 80 72 81, www.spice.
lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTALK
VNU VEIKALS
Located in the main building of the Kalnciema kvartls,
this shop and caf sells a wide variety of mostly Italian
wines that can also be enjoyed on the premises or on its
summer terrace.QD-1, Kalnciema 35, tel. (+371) 67 61 43
22, kalnciemaiela.lv/davinchi/index.html. Open 12:00 22:00. Closed Sun.
ZIRGU STALLIS
Buy cowboy boots, hats and fashion here as well as stirrups, bridles, saddles and other equestrian gear.QD-1,
Nometu 10 (entrance from Slokas), tel. (+371) 67 61 49
83, www.zirgustallis.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun. A
KALNCIEMA FAIR
The thoroughfare on the
other side of the Vanu
bridge is a treasure trove
of 19th-century wooden
architecture and although
many of these old edifices
could use some serious
renovation work, the
beautiful buildings at the
corner of D-1, Melnsila and Kalnciema iela have been
lovingly restored and now host a bustling fair every
Saturday from 10:00 - 16:00 that attracts visitors from
around Riga. Although the theme changes from fair
to fair, you can expect plenty of food and drink, local
crafts and a lively atmosphere. Photo courtesy of www.
kalnciemaiela.lv. Take bus No.53 from the National Theatre to the Melnsila iela stop.
WINTER ACTIVITIES
UZVARAS PARK SKATING RINK
Once the mercury consistently stays below zero, you can
use this 20x40m rink just beyond the massive Soviet Victory monument for free if you have your own skates or
rent a pair for 2 - 3 from the kiosk. Take tram N10 from
Grcinieku to either the Slokas iela or Arkdijas parks stop.
QE-2, Uzvaras bulvris 15, tel. (+371) 29 51 12 44, www.
uzvarasparks.lv. Open 11:00 - 21:00.
UZVARAS PARK CROSS COUNTRY TRACK
You can rent cross-country skis and boots and glide
around the snow-covered lawn just beyond the massive
Soviet Victory monument on the left bank of the RIver
Daugava. Take tram N10 from Grcinieku to either the
Slokas iela or Arkdijas parks stop.QE-2, Uzvaras bulvris
15, tel. (+371) 29 51 12 44, www.uzvarasparks.lv. Open
10:00 - 21:00. Ski and boot rental: adults 4.50/hour;
kids 3/hour.
ZELTA BOULINGA CENTRS
22 lanes, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool
tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/restaurant.QE-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.
zelta.lv. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00
- 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Kids having fun at Uzavaras Park
M.Zaprauskis
29
A Short Guide to
Latvian Cuisine
TAKE A CRASH COURSE IN CALORIES AND
DISCOVER THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF PORK
PARTS AND THE DEMON WEED KNOWN AS DILL
Latvian Cuisine
If youre looking for something light and healthy to eat, then
youve come to the wrong place. In truth, Rigas dining scene offers plenty of options for people who prefer to avoid
fatty foods and even a couple of vegetarian restaurants, but
if like most visitors youd like to chow down on some proper
local cuisine then pop your heart medication, pull out your
pocket defibrillator and get ready to get greasy.
A Latvian meal is seldom complete without pork.
Even if you order a dish without the national meat, theres
a good chance that the chef has snuck it into your food
somehow, usually by cooking other food, including vegetables, in bacon fat. Karbonde ar kaulu (grilled pork
chops), karbonde (pork schnitzel) and ckas stilbs (pork
knuckle) are all favourites, but for more exotic pig dishes
keep an eye out for ckas ausis (pigs ears), grdenis (pigs
head stew) and ckas kjas (pigs feet). Kartupei (potatoes) are served with everything and theyre usually either
boiled, fried, boiled and then fried or mashed.
Sometimes, traditional restaurants will also offer grii
(boiled buckwheat) instead of potatoes. If in doubt, stick
with the potatoes. Kposti (cabbage) also plays a major
role in most Latvian meals. Sometimes its served cold as a
salad or hot as a side dish like skbie kposti (sour kraut).
We, however, prefer ovtie or tovtie kposti, which
is like sour kraut but sweeter and darker in colour as its
stewed longer with sugar. Pelkie ziri (grey peas) is another side dish worth trying. Big, brownish-grey round peas
are boiled and then fried with bacon and usually served
with kefrs (kefir) or skbais krjums (sour cream).
If youre looking for something healthy

to eat, youve come to the wrong place
All kinds of pickled items are also on offer at most
Latvian establishments including beets, mushrooms and,
of course, cucumbers. If you see the word marints on a
menu it means that something has been marinated in vinegar. Latvians refer to all salads as salti including the classic local staple rosols, which is a combination of pickled
vegetables, potatoes and meat held together with loads of
majonze (mayonnaise), sinepes (mustard) and mrrutki
(horseradish). Other salads are drenched in sour cream.
SKLANDRAUI
A sklandrausis (see photo opposite page) is a delicious
sweet pie consisting of mashed carrots and potatoes
baked in a rye flour crust. Although traditionally from
the western province of Kurzeme, this tasty treat is now
baked throughout Latvia. In 2013, the sklandrausis became the first Latvian food to be listed in the EUs Traditional Specialties Guaranteed (TSG) registry meaning
that only a pie created according to a specific recipe
can be called a sklandrausis. You can usually get them
at the Saturday markets on Kalnciema iela and Berga
Bazrs and at the Central Market.
COOKING CLASSES
Does souvenir shopping make you ill? Would you sooner visit the dentist than bring home another refrigerator
magnet from a foreign country? Dont settle for massproduced kitsch that will end up hidden in a drawer or
in the rubbish bin. If you appreciate good food and like
to cook, then why not take a local cooking class and
learn how to prepare a traditional Latvian meal for your
family and friends? Liene Turlaja teaches small groups
of no more than four people all about Latvian cuisine
at her Riga home. Try centuries-old recipes that will last
a lifetime and learn about Latvian country teas that are
imbued with a wide variety of beneficial properties.
Cooking courses are hands-on and last 3 - 4 hours. To
book a class contact Liene at tel. (+371) 29 16 85 78 or
www.cookinglatvia.com.
Soups are usually hearty like frikadeu zupa (meatball

soup), ziru zupa (pea soup) and the Russian favourite
soanka (tangy tomato soup with potatoes, sausage, pork
kidney and pickles). Latvian seasonings seldom stray beyond dilles (dill), imenes (caraway seeds), sls (salt) and
pipari (pepper). In fact, dill is sprinkled on nearly everything including Italian food, so if you dont want a green
pizza delivered to your table politely ask: bez dillm, ldzu.
Although Latvians love ice cream, cake and chocolate,
traditional desserts include maizes zupa (rye bread pudding) and selis (starchy fruit pudding served with milk).
Bakeries are also full of sweet and savoury pastries called
prgi with any number of fillings from bacon and onions
to mushrooms and even cherries.
Although most local food wont make it into any mainstream diets, with perhaps the exception of the Atkins plan,
one has to keep in mind that for centuries Latvians toiled
in the fields burning off thousands of calories a day, so its
not so surprising that authentic local cuisine is designed for
work horses, not office workers. Labu apetti (bon appetit)!
31
Restaurants
A thin-crust pizza, fresh sushi, hearty pork knuckle or an
Armenian shashlik are never far from your fingertips in Riga
and many cafs now offer cheap lunch specials to lure diners into their establishments. A tip of 10% is expected at
most places. The average cost of a main course is listed in
parentheses.
AMERICAN
T.G.I.FRIDAYS
Local anti-globalisation fanatics may be upset, but expats
and tourists cant get enough of this American chain of
bar/restaurants on two floors in Old Riga. The average Joe
or Jnis may gripe about paying over 9 for a big burger,
but it could also be argued that the large portions more
than justify the price. In any case, you can enjoy big servings of steaks, ribs, nachos and a huge selection of cocktails served by ultra-happy staff dressed in ridiculous red
and white striped outfits.QI-2, Kau 6, tel. (+371) 67 22
90 71, www.fridays.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Also at the
airport, tel. (+371) 67 35 02 06. Open 07:30 - 22:00. (10
- 20). AVS
ARMENIAN
ARAGATS
Yerevans loss is Rigas gain. Going to this authentic restaurant is like visiting an Armenian family for dinner, only
youre presented with a bill at the end of the evening. In
fact, the family who runs this authentic restaurant fled
earthquake-racked Armenia only to open a little piece of
their homeland in Riga. Feast on mouth-watering grilled
lamb, veal and pork shashliks and a wide variety of other
delicious cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains. The aquamarine walls and fake plastic grape vines of this former
second floor apartment are an acquired taste, but when
your host mashes your baked vegetables at your table,
youll quickly forget about the Soviet-style interior. When
in the company of men, women are given menus without prices.QB-5, Miera 15, tel. (+371) 67 37 34 45. Open
13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (8 - 14). AX
MENUS
You can expect most menus
at Riga restaurants to list
dishes in Latvian, Russian
and their best attempt at
English. Although some are
flawless, others are guaranteed to amuse you. Favourites include boiled cancer,
an unfortunate reference to
the zodiac instead of a crustacean, and house made carbonate which is actually
meant to be a pork chop and not something that an Al
Qaeda operative made in his basement.
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino
I Fireplace
V Home delivery
E Live music
J Old town location B Outside seating

X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
RC
Riga Card discounts
ASIAN
GAN BEI
Located on the 7th floor a popular shopping mall, this stylish restaurant is a must see for hungry shoppers. You can order a wide range of Asian cuisine from sushi and sashimi to
classic Chinese and Indian dishes that are listed on a menu
thats as long as a novel. The quality of the food is excellent,
but in our opinion the serving sizes could be a bit bigger. No
matter. You can console yourself with a tasty cocktail or a
delicious Valmiermuia draught.QC-4, Dzirnavu 67 (Galleria Riga - 7th floor), tel. (+371) 67 28 84 20, www.ganbei.
lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (7 - 12). AVS
HIMALAJU-ZIJAS VIRTUVE
After working for the popular Gan Bei chain of Asian restaurants in Riga for seven years Nepalese chef Bam Bhandari decided to open his own restaurant specialising in
Chinese, Thai, Indian and Nepalese cuisine and were very
happy that he did. Unlike the aforementioned restaurant
that places a large emphasis on its modern interior, this
family-run eatery is a much simpler affair with standard
furniture and a few photos of Himalayan vistas. Here its
all about the delicious food, which is often quite spicy, and
the friendly service provided by the chef and his wife. Vegetarian dishes are also on offer as well as a cheap business
lunch from 12:00 - 17:00.QB-5, Brvbas 102, tel. (+371)
20 37 29 38, www.npasiankitchen.com. Open 10:00 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-4, Blaumaa 14. Open 10:30
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (4 - 8). ASW
WOK TO WALK
Queue up and order one of six noodle or rice dishes followed by your choice of meat and veggies and one
of the sauces that range from spicy chilli and curry to
sweet teriyaki. All of the ingredients are cooked to order
by the cheeky chefs behind a glass partition who shout
your name when the meal is ready. The modern interior
is a quirky combination of pine floors, polished plywood
walls, black tiles in the kitchen area and metal industrialstyle shelving and lighting. Lines can be daunting at
lunchtime but the process is actually quick and efficient.
QI-3, Aspazijas bulvris 30, tel. (+371) 28 61 61 81,
www.woktowalk.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00. (4 - 6). JASW
Restaurants
Spa
Jacuzzi
Sauna
Turkish bath
Banqueting
and
Conference
facilities
231
rooms
Restaurants
Lobby bar
Lounge
Whether it is for business or for pleasure,

your stay at the BELLEVUE Park Hotel in Riga
is sure to be enjoyable.
AZERBAIJANI
APERON
Although the Turkish and Georgian meals on the menu,
not to mention the pizzas, made us doubt the authenticity of this restaurant, we threw caution to the wind and
ordered the khinkali anyway, which was not we expected,
but nothing to complain about either. The prices of the
grilled meat and seafood werent outrageous and a cheap
daily lunch special can be had for as little as 5. Two young
men attempted to serve all of the patrons on the shady
terrace, but came up a little short. The presence of a communal bottle of Listerine in the toilet was also distressing.
QB-3, Elizabetes 7, tel. (+371) 67 27 59 64/(+371) 26 96
90 08, apsheron.lv. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 13). A
BAKERIES
CADETS DE GASCOGNE
Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Laranes French
bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this
side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pt, quiches,
strong coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice also make
this boulangerie a favourite retreat.QG-2, Z.A. Meierovica
bulv. 8, tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03, www.cadets.lv. Open
07:00 - 22:00. Also at C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas
13 (Berga Bazrs). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 21:00; C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from ertrdes). Open
07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A
MRTIA BEEREJA
Martins Bakery offers a modern, beige environment to
enjoy classic Latvian pastries from freshly baked prgi
(bacon dumplings) with a variety of different fillings like
ham, onions and mushrooms to delicious sweet pastries
from fragrant kana maiztes (cinnamon buns) to gooey
kafijas maiztes (custard-cream buns). You can order anything it offers to take away, including coffee, or just enjoy
a cappuccino or a cup of tea on the spot.QI-3, Vau 28,
tel. (+371) 67 21 33 14, www.bekereja.lv. Open 07:30 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Also on C-4, Marijas 19, tel.
(+371) 67 28 71 61; C-5, ertrdes 44, tel. (+371) 67 31
08 81. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00
- 19:00. S
SAFIE TURKISH BAKERY
Although Riga has had its fair share of Turkish kebab shops
over the years, some more authentic than others, the city
has never had its own Turkish bakery - until now. Enjoy traditional varieties of baklava with pistachios, walnuts and
other tasty ingredients or savoury pastries with different
fillings from meat and mushrooms to spinach and cheese
created by a professional baker from Turkey. You can also
order plenty of coffee and tea in this charming, small space
decorated with bright walls and some exposed brick.
Naturally, you can order your java and Anatolian delicacies
to take away.QC-5, ertrdes 37, tel. (+371) 29 81 81 75,
www.safie.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. AS
33
Restaurants
VALENTINES DAY
Valentines Day is one of those holidays, if you can call
it that, that most people seem to love or hate. While
some might extol the virtues of a day dedicated to love,
others believe it to be a scam perpetrated by jewellers,
restaurateurs and the Hallmark Card Corporation. Whatever your opinion, if youre a man with a girlfriend, wife,
soul mate, whatever, youre going to have to do something on February 14 or risk sleeping on the couch until
the spring. Weve put together a selection of things you
can do to impress your significant other and avoid exile
in the doghouse. Bear in mind that Valentines Day is
also reluctantly celebrated by locals, so you might want
to make a reservation at most of the following places.
Activities: enjoy a day at the spa with swimming
pools, saunas, massages and beauty treatments at the
six-storey ESPA Riga connected to the Radisson Blu
Hotel Latvija. The cinema is an oldie, but a goodie for
a date and you can choose the ultra-modern Forum
Cinemas near the train station or the more romantic
Splendid Palace cinema at Elizabetes 61 (see Culture
& Events).
Gifts: for unique Latvian gifts including jewellery,
fashion and home design, we recommend a visit to
Pienene in Old Riga or Muhamors on Lpla. For exclusive chocolates try NelleUlla (see photo below) on
Audju iela. The Flower Market on Trbatas is of course
the best place to buy a bouquet (see Shopping), but if
youd prefer a gift thats more risqu, visit SexyStyle at
Brvbas 47 (entrance from Lpla).
Drinks: Vna Studija on Elizabetes or Stabu serves
a unique selection of international wines and has a
hip, lively atmosphere. For cocktails in the sky try the
Skyline Bar on the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel
Latvija or for something more down to earth The Left
Door Bar on Antonijas.
Dinner: for a fantastic culinary experience where
no expense is spared we cant recommend the restaurant of Hotel Bergs strongly enough. But if you enjoy
your fine dining with a view, then Bilbliotka No.1 in
the Vrmanes Park is your best bet. For incredible food
and cutting-edge dcor try Mute on Trbatas or, for
something a bit more casual, Zoste on Elizabetes. If its
candlelight and romantic ambience youre after then
either Mio on Blaumaa or Garage in Berga Bazrs will
do the trick. Finally, if youre looking for a vegetarian Valentines then give Buddha on Raia a try.
BARBECUE
CHARLESTONS
Weve been big fans of this casual, yet elegant restaurant
in the city centre for years and if you drop by youll see
why. The main dining hall offers soft, dark colours and
much of the space is divided by stacks of alder firewood,
which is used to smoke many of its meat and fish dishes.
In fact, the delicious half chickens, pork and beef ribs and
other Charleston delicacies are smoked for 4 - 14 hours
in a specially-designed smoke room downstairs. Naturally, seafood and a variety of vegetarian dishes are also
available for the non-carnivores among us. Charlestons
also has a great Sunday brunch from 11:00 - 15:00.QC4/5, Blaumaa 38/40, tel. (+371) 67 77 05 73, www.
charlestons.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10 - 21). ASW
RIBS & ROCK
With a name like Ribs & Rock one might expect a southernstyle barbecue joint with wooden picnic tables and paper
placemats, but this is an upmarket affair more akin to an
elegant blues club than an American roadhouse. In any
event, if you like rock music and lots and lots of meat then
youre in luck as burgers, steaks, roast beef sandwiches
and steak tartar are all on offer as well as some fish dishes
for fair weather vegetarians. A separate menu dedicated to
a variety of ribs is, however, its main attraction.QI-2, Kau
8, tel. (+371) 28 65 04 50, www.ribsrestaurant.lv. Open
11:00 - 24:00. (14 - 28). AE
BURGER JOINTS
NEW
BURGER CORNER
This small burger joint right next to Old Rigas biggest
square serves up eight juicy gourmet burgers from classic bacon and cheddar and teriyaki to the Italian Don Vito
and the veggie burger with falafel and hummus, to name
a few. All of the meat patties are made with 100% beef
and beer and cider are also available as well as Fentimans
botanically brewed soft drinks. The otherwise unremarkable dark red interior offers good views of the hubbub outside via huge windows.QH-2, Tirgou 5/7. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (5 - 10). JAS
NEW
BURGER STORY
Burgers are all the rage in Riga these days and the latest
addition to the scene has raised the bar with nearly 20
different gourmet beef, chicken, lamb and veggie burgers served on homemade brioche buns. We enjoyed the
BBQ option but The Greek with tzatziki sauce, feta cheese
and olives also sounded tempting. You can quench your
thirst with soft drinks poured in mason jars, Nescaf coffee or a tasty local beer and if the functional space looks a
little crowded have no fear as plenty of seating is available
downstairs.QB/C-4, ertrdes 16, tel. (+371) 29 16 17 28.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (5 - 7). ASW
Restaurants
THE BEST GRILL RESTAURANT IN TOWN

Blaumana Str. 38/40, Riga
e-mail: info@restaurant-riga.com
phone: +371 6777 05 73
www.charlestons.lv
facebook.com/restorans
@_restaurant
STREET BURGERS
If you think that yellow clown with the red hair knows how
to make a real American burger then go straight to this
place to see how mistaken you are. Order one of roughly
half a dozen burgers with a side of fries and dont forget to
add extra cheese or bacon to tempt fate. Vegetarians will
no doubt appreciate the Portobello mushroom burger,
but being true gluttons we chose the ghetto burger thats
served with two thick beef patties and double cheese.
Valmiermuias beer is available on draught not to mention
soft drinks with free refills!QC-4, ertrdes 27, tel. (+371)
20 23 36 39, www.streetburgers.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(6 - 9). ASW
CAFETERIAS
DELICIO
Riga has nearly as many cheap cafeterias as it has stray
cats, but this chain is a cut above the rest. Not only does
it offer a big buffet of international and Latvian favourites, but it also boasts a pasta station where meals are
cooked to order after youve chosen your own ingredients. Beer, proseco and wine are also available, not to
mention a cosy, yet stylish interior of raised levels and
comfy niches, which make you feel like youre dining at
a proper restaurant, but for a fraction of the price. Breakfast specials including a create your own omelette are
on offer until 11:30.QF-3, Dzirnavu 49, tel. (+371) 67 28
53 97, delicio.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (2 6). TAS
BREAKFAST
BERGS RESTAURANT
This design hotels stylish restaurant offers a daily
la carte breakfast from 07:30 - 11:00.QC-4, Elizabetes
83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.
hotelbergs.lv. Open 07:30 - 11:00. AW
INDEX CAF
Fresh baguettes, pastries, sandwiches, coffee, tea
and juice.QH-3, Brvbas 32, tel. (+371) 67 28 77 18,
www.indexcafe.lv. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. AS
LIDO VRMANTIS
Enjoy a hearty breakfast buffet, which includes hot
meals like eggs, sausage and bacon as well as cold
dishes like sliced cheese, meat, bread and fresh vegetables. This all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet costs
4.95 and also includes coffee and water with lemon.
QC-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62 89, www.
lido.lv. Open 09:00 - 11:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. AS
OSRISS
Osiris specialises in omelettes but it also serves bacon
and egg sandwiches, pancakes and even oatmeal.QC4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02, osiris@ticino.
lv. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A
37
Restaurants
CAFS
ELKOR FOOD & WINE
With huge windows facing Freedom Boulevard on one side
and the Freedom Monument on the other, this is the place
to go if you enjoy views with your food and drink. Have a
seat and order omelettes, toasted panini, homemade pizzas and pastas as well as delicious desserts from one of the
waitresses or go straight to the counter and just pick out
what you want to eat. A large selection of wine, cocktails
and beer is also available, which you can sip at the bar, by
one of the windows or near the open-plan kitchen. A shop
selling gourmet food and drink is available in the cellar.
QG-3, Brvbas bulvris 19, tel. (+371) 67 21 34 55, www.
foodandwine.lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (3 - 8). AS
OSRISS
The first of opera director Andrejs agars many caf ventures, and the only one to survive, Osiris found a successful recipe in the mid-1990s and stuck with it. Inexpensive
breakfasts, sandwiches, international cuisine and a romantic ambience make this place a favourite of local big shots,
politicians and intelligentsia so make a reservation for dinner. The only drawback is the horrible iron tables that were
obviously created as torture devices for long legs.QC-4,
Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (4 - 10). A
SPA CAF
You dont have to be a member of this incredible, awardwinning six-storey spa to take advantage of its caf, which,
not surprisingly, specialises in light and healthy cuisine.
Take a seat in the bright atrium and order a full meal or
just try one of its special teas or perhaps a refreshing fruit
smoothie.QF-3, Bazncas 4A, tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22,
www.espariga.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW
TRUSIS KAFE
This hip caf with bright white walls and furniture, huge
shop front windows and polished concrete floors certainly
has no shortage of natural light, or patrons for that matter. In
fact, this place is so popular at the weekend that youd better
arrive early if you want a seat. The small international menu,
which is published on the blackboard and on its Facebook
page, changes every day, so one day you can enjoy a tasty
curry and the next, a hearty pork roast. Homemade cakes
are also on offer as well as a laudable selection of Latvian
wines and local and Lithuanian microbrews. Post-punk and
alternative tunes will keep your fingers tapping on the shabby-chic tables as you sip a hoppy Malduguns beer, which
is available on draught.QB-4, Dzirnavu 43, tel. (+371) 26
59 02 64, www.trusiskafe.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. AW
COFFEE & CAKE
RASOLS
Named after the Latvian national salad, a gooey mass of
chopped meat and vegetables held together with mayonnaise and sour cream, this cosy caf has a truly eclectic interior of mirror tile mosaics, clunky wooden tables, unusual lighting fixtures, colourfully upholstered benches and
even the odd religious icon. The tiny menu includes small
portions of over-priced Latvian comfort food presented in
interesting ways. If youre an affluent local who demands
stylish surroundings, yet craves the standard lunchroom
fare of their youth for an inflated price, then you wont be
disappointed. If youre not, then skip the meal, order one
of the Labietis craft brews in bottles and plan your next
move.QB-3, Strlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 26 42 41 19. Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (7).
ART CAF SIENNA

If the interior of this elegant caf werent so cosy, you
might think youve stumbled into a room at the nearby
Art Nouveau Museum. The antique wallpaper, clocks, furniture, chandeliers, bookcases and paintings as well as the
attentive, old-fashioned service make one feel as if theyve
stepped back in time. Enjoy the most decadent desserts
available in Riga, including the rum-soaked Black Forest
torte, which are all made by the award-winning chefs at
Vincents - the most exclusive restaurant in Latvia. Order
a fancy pot of tea, a cappuccino, a glass of Champagne
or a cognac and breathe in the sophisticated fin de sicle
ambience or just admire one of the citys most spectacular art nouveau edifices on the opposite side of the street.
QB-3, Strlnieku 3, tel. (+371) 26 14 22 86, www.sienna.
lv. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. TS
SIRMAIS & DREIBANTS

Two of Latvias most famous celebrity chefs teamed up to
create this small caf and high-end kitchen supply shop in
a slightly shabby part of town where Rigas glitterati rarely
park their German SUVs. The ever-changing seasonal
menu is written by hand in pencil, but you can expect
upmarket international cuisine made with local ingredients and a decent wine selection. The interior is simple
and cluttered with KitchenAid products as well as a large
portrait of a pig in a suit, which is used on the label of their
spice mixes. Meals are prepared in the open kitchen in the
back.QC-5, Bruinieku 63, tel. (+371) 22 10 00 30, www.
sirmaisundreibants.lv. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
(13 - 15). AW
INNOCENT CAF
This red, black and grey caf employs some of the citys
best baristas so its a safe bet that youre going to get
superb coffee here. Take a seat at one of the elevated
booths or on a leather sofa and take advantage of free
wi-fi and local press with a glass of wine, beer or maybe
even a cocktail or browse some of its upmarket coffee
products at its shop in the back. Take away drinks are
available and you can even add your own syrups at
the self-serve station. Its also a popular destination for
brunch, which is served every day.QC-4/5, Blaumaa
34, tel. (+371) 29 34 95 07, www.innocent.lv. Open
08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. SW
Restaurants
KAFKA KAFIJA
Why the literary reference to one of the worlds most renowned authors? It may have something to do with the
fact that this cosy caf is located on the second floor of
the Globuss bookshop. Kafka is one of the few coffee establishments in Riga to roast its own beans, so youre guaranteed a great cup of Java and you can also get it to go in
case you dont have time to read a book and admire the interior, which includes quotes by famous writers, a parquet
floor and an antique tiled fireplace. Cookies, cake and Latvian country teas are also available as well as Valmiermuia
brews.QI-3, Vau 26, tel. (+371) 26 09 21 24/(+371) 28
34 52 51. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. JSW
NEW
MRA
This small caf and shop serves up coffee, herbal teas,
cookies, snacks and even cocktails in this cosy space where
you can admire the owners true passion - knitting and
crocheting. Indeed, nearly everything is covered in a layer
of yarn from the heating pipes to the bicycle hanging over
the bar. You can also peruse its handmade scarves, hats,
sweaters, mittens, socks, dresses and other fashion made
from mohair, lambswool or alpaca wool. Mra also sells a
variety of Latvian wine, chocolates and other treats as well
as vintage 1960s tea sets.QH-1, Maz pils 6, tel. (+371)
29 55 53 27, www.mara.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. JAS
M CAFE
This hip little caf wont make you moo, but youll probably
be happy to know that all of the homemade pastries, cakes
and Belgian waffles served here are baked with free range
eggs, locally-sourced dairy products and freshly milled flour.
Take a seat at the comfortable long bench that stretches
across the entire left wall and enjoy a tasty treat with a cup
of coffee, tea or a variety of freshly squeezed juices in this
modern venue with white walls, large picture windows and
worn wooden floors.QB-5, Trbatas 66, tel. (+371) 28 27
18 98. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. AW
ANNA CAFE
Dont let the off-beat location in a quiet residential neighbourhood discourage you from tasting one of Rigas best
cups of coffee. This cosy caf sports three cement tables, a
long counter and plenty of cushioned benches that wrap
around two walls that offer huge windows with views of
the peaceful street outside. Although popular with young
hipsters who appreciate gourmet coffee produced in a
bright red La Marzocco espresso machine, anna also has
a pleasant neighbourhood vibe thats inviting to all.QB-4,
Tomsona 2, tel. (+371) 27 00 22 26. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ASW
Hundreds more reviews at

www.riga.inyourpocket.com
39
Restaurants
CENTRAL ASIAN
CHINESE
UZBEGIMS
This authentic Uzbek restaurant housed in one of the
citys loveliest art nouveau landmarks includes all of the
usual Central Asian kitsch including ceramic plates, traditional instruments and figurines of bearded men with
watermelons, yet Uzbegims has a much more upmarket
feel with gilded dinnerware, expensive Persian rugs and
impeccable service by professional staff. The whole gamut
of Uzbek cuisine is on offer, but we chose the stuffed aubergines and assorted grilled meat skewers with delicious
homemade bread and spicy adjika sauce.QB-4, Elizabetes 10b, tel. (+371) 66 10 33 34, www.uzbegims.lv. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (7 - 12). A
CHINA GARDEN
For only 5 you can eat as much as you like from a substantial buffet of Chinese cuisine, steamed rice, fried noodles
and even sushi. Two different soups are also in the bargain
as well as desserts and fresh fruit. You do have to pay extra
for beer or wine but thats a small price to pay for filling
your gut like the gluttons of old.QC-4, Barona 24/26, tel.
(+371) 65 31 38 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. (8).
VARZOBA
This tiny caf at the back end of the modern addition to
the Town Hall that serves delicious Central Asian cuisine
like lagman (tomato, noodle and lamb soup) with fresh
non (bread) for cheap, not to mention very affordable
Uavas beer on draught. The food and drink is also usually
served by its friendly owner who always greets his patrons
with a smile.QI-1, Rtslaukums 1 (entrance from Maz
Jauniela), tel. (+371) 67 22 41 80, www.varzob.lv. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 7). A
CHEAP & QUICK

PELMEI XL
As the name suggests, it offers extra large portions of
chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmei (Russian ravioli) for extra small prices. Also available are two
kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals
do and wash it down with a beer or, if you havent had
enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka.
QI-2, Kau 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 27 28, www.xlpelmeni.lv.
Open 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. Also at D-4,
Stacijas 2 (train station). Open 10:00 - 22:00. (3). S
EFPAVRS VILHELMS
Help yourself to cheese, meat, potato, banana or plain
pancakes, lash them with sour cream or a variety of jams
and gobble them down seated between walls made to
look like lumpy pancake batter. We wonder what weird incident prompted the management to put the no shower
and no horses signs on the window.QH-2, u 6, tel.
(+371) 67 22 82 14. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. (3 - 6).
WOKI TOKI
To call this glorified kiosk with limited seating a restaurant
would be a bit of a stretch but if youre in the mood for really
cheap beef and broccoli, spring rolls or won ton soup then
this cleverly named Chinese fast food joint is a good option.
The staff tend to fill the takeaway box with more noodles
than meat but its still tasty and definitely filling.QB-5, Barona 57, tel. (+371) 25 41 44 66, www.wokitoki.lv. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2 - 4). VS
OLD SHANGHAI
Unlike other Asian restaurants, Old Shanghai has broken
away from the traditional dcor of red lanterns and Chinese landscape paintings, choosing instead a modern
grey, minimalist interior whose chief decoration is the
tempting cooked ducks hanging in the open-plan kitchen
behind a glass partition. Try delicious dishes prepared
by its Shanghai-born chef like steamed scallops in garlic sauce or one of its tasty hot pots, not to mention an
impressive selection of sushi.QA-5, Valdemra 123, tel.
(+371) 67 37 23 37, www.oldshanghai.lv. Open 12:00 22:00. (10 - 15). A
VEGETARIAN
BUDDHA
Rigas poshest vegetarian restaurant is hidden away
in the half cellar beneath the trendy Mai Tai club and
cocktail lounge. You wont find poor excuses for vegetarian cuisine here like simple pastas or risotto. Buddha serves refined dishes from around the globe with
a heavy influence from India, Asia and the Middle East,
hence the depictions of Ganesha and Buddha at opposite ends of the stylish black and gold dining hall.
Order gourmet falafel with couscous and tahini, malai
kofta with rice or the three-course lunch special, which
is a bargain at just under 8. You can also expect a
fresh flower on each table and relaxing world music in
the background.QH-3, Raia bulvris 15, tel. (+371)
26 64 22 55. Open 12:00 - 04:00. (7 - 10). A
MIIT
Although its slogan coffee, bikes, food is certainly to
the point, it neglects to inform you that on weekdays
MiiT is also a vegetarian/vegan bistro thats incredibly
popular with local hipsters and affluent arty types. Just
under 5 will get you a tasty soup and a main course,
but youll have to pay extra for the excellent coffee, the
mouth-watering brownies or the Valmiermuias and
Bryuvers brews. The interior is simple, yet chic, and you
can also have your bicycle repaired in the shop behind
the bar. QB/C-4, Lpla 10, tel. (+371) 29 17 88 57,
www.miit.lv. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Mon 08:30 - 21:00,
Thu 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (5). ASW
Restaurants
CZECH
DOUGHNUTS
STARGOROD
Housed in an historic 300-year-old building near the river,
this colossal brewery and restaurant on two floors is so
popular with locals that a reservation is nearly a requirement at the weekend. Order litres and litres of delicious
beer brewed on the premises as well as huge portions of
Czech and Latvian cuisine including its signature dishes roast duck and crispy pork knuckle. Children are kept busy
by an in-house entertainer, while adults can watch live
sports on dozens of flat screens that seem to be attached
to nearly every surface (even the urinals!).QC-3, Republikas laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 87 87 87, www.stargorod.
net. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (8 - 16). AEW
ZE DONATS (THE DONUTS)

Not quite Dunkin Donuts, but pretty darn close. This stylish brown and white doughnut shop offers friendly wait
staff, free wireless internet access and even a chillout room
with couches and a flat screen TV, not to mention delicious
doughnuts. Chow down on Boston creams, glazed and
dozens of other sweet concoctions including the green
Pistachio Shrek! Coffee, tea and huge brownies are also on
offer.QF-3, Valdemra 18, tel. (+371) 67 33 23 31, www.
zedonats.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. SW
SVEIKS, VEIK! (HELLO VEJK!)

Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav
Haeks classic character the Good Soldier vejk that dot
the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere
of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls on two floors,
not to mention its most important feature - great beer.
Uavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught, cheap
Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and you can even order a shot of ice cold Becherovka that tastes like gingerbread cookies in liquid form. Best of all, unlike the staff that
man the beer halls of Prague, the ladies here arent afraid
to smile when they take your order.QB-5, Stabu 23, tel.
(+371) 67 31 46 74, www.svejk.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8). AE
NEW
THE LODGE
The British owner of this restaurant has endeavoured to
bring a small slice of the UK to Riga, but dont expect an
old fashioned pub reeking of beer. The Lodge is a sophisticated venue more reminiscent of a modern take on an
English gentlemens club. A variety of European cuisine
from pan-seared scallop starters to pastas, steaks and seafood is served and although you wont find fish and chips
or bangers and mash on the menu, a proper English breakfast is served all day and a three-course business lunch
can be had for as little as 6.50.QH-3, Merea 17/19, tel.
(+371) 20 09 17 65, www.lodge.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (7 - 15).
ENGLISH
41
Restaurants
FAST FOOD
INTERNATIONAL
NEW
STREET FRIES KITCHEN
What began as a tiny street kiosk has evolved into a small
bistro serving a wide variety of pancakes, fried snacks, eggs
cooked to order, sandwiches and, of course, its speciality Belgian-style pommes frites, French fries, chips or whatever
you prefer calling deep-fried potatoes. The interior is modern, yet playful and includes colourful furniture, hardwood
floors and lots of white tile on the walls. A kids table offers
games and toys, but adults can sample a dozen or so beers
in bottles from around the globe. Try the flap jacks with
maple syrup.QI-3, Vgnera 18, tel. (+371) 67 22 42 79,
streetfries.lv. Open 10:30 - 21:30. (3 - 6). JASW
AUSTRA
This industrial-style space on two floors offers a minimalist grey and white interior that includes unusual, yet
impressive concrete lamps hanging from the ceiling and
lots of greenery like potted plants and a large collection
of orchids. During the day you can order simple fare such
as pancakes and toasted sandwiches as well as a lunch
special, but in the evening the chefs let their creative
side shine with imaginative seasonal dishes prepared in
the open-plan kitchen upstairs.QC-5, Barona 41/43, tel.
(+371) 27 44 00 07. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00. Closed Sun. (4 - 10). TA
SUBWAY
One the worlds biggest chains of sandwich shops has returned to Riga in an unlikely location in the premises of the
citys best underground music venue - Nabaklab. You can
order subs with steak and cheese, chicken teriyaki or fajitas,
tuna or plenty of other cold cuts including pepperoni with
the toppings and sauces of your choice, but we recommend
the chipotle southwest sauce, which has a bit of spice to it.
Unfortunately, the staff is still learning the trade, so you
might have to wait a while to get your food and to our horror it doesnt offer meatball heroes, our favourite Subway
staple!QH-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulvris 12, tel. (+371) 20
29 96 57, www.subway.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. Also at I-2, Grcinieku 11a. (4 - 6). AS
GEORGIAN
HAAPURI
Although were great admirers of Georgian cuisine, we
decided to play it safe at this small bistro, but werent at
all disappointed with the classic kharcho (beef, rice and
tomato soup), which was surprisingly spicy, or the tasty
khinkali (meat dumplings). A small menu is written on the
wall as you enter in Latvian and Georgian, so you might
have to use hand gestures and play some charades to understand whats on offer, but if youre looking for cheap
and authentic home cooking from the Caucasus Mountains, youve come to the right place.QC-4, Trbatas
41/43 (entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 26 03 10 63.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (4 - 7). S
INDIAN
INDIAN RAJA
All of the dishes served here are so veritably Indian, its
almost overwhelming. This is hardly Baltic-modified cuisine, which is why the bill wont be small, but it will reflect
one of the best dining investments in the city. Although
many of them have Indo European roots, most locals still
shy away, which means you, expats and tourists, will have
the peaceful interior and its views of St.Peters Church all
to yourself.QI-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 32 40, www.
indianraja.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 14). AS
COLOMBO
Located on the 12th floor of the recently refurbished Karavella Hotel near the Port of Riga, Colombo offers refined
international cuisine, not to mention unique views of the
city centre, old town and the River Daugava. Well-dressed
wait staff don white gloves while serving you tasty cuisine in an elegant atmosphere of brown and beige colours and candles on each table.QA-3, Katrnas dambis
27 (Karavella Hotel - 12th floor), tel. (+371) 67 32 31
30, www.hotelkaravella.lv. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (15).
PAXW
C.U.T.
This upmarket restaurant located on the ground floor of
the Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel specialises in international cuisine from classic bouillabaisse and pasta dishes to
home-smoked duck breast with plum chutney and grilled
beef tenderloin. You can also just have a beer or a creative
cocktail at its bar. C.U.T. also prides itself on its wine list not
to mention its daily breakfast buffet for 8 - 17 from 06:30
- 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.QC-4, Elizabetes 73 (Radisson Blu Elizabete Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 78 55 77, www.
restaurantcut.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (9 - 14). AW
OUR FAVOURITES
For reviews of the following venues take a look at the
index on p.98.
Bar
Krogs Aptieka or Trusis Kafe
Breakfast
Osriss
Brew pub
Labietis
Brunch
Aqua Luna or Charlestons
Child-friendly
Vairk Saules
Cocktails
Skyline Bar, The Left Door Bar or XIII
Coffee
Art Caf Sienna or anna Cafe
Ethnic dining
Uzbegims or Varzoba
Happy hour Aussie Backpackers Pub (17:00 - 19:00)
Latvian food
Folk Club Ala or LIDO
Pub
Kiwi Bar or Moloneys
Romance
Garage or Mio
Sports bar
Paddy Whelans
Upmarket dining Bergs, Bilbliotka No 1 or Neiburgs
Restaurants
ESPLANDE
If you think that Esplande is just another hotel restaurant
then guess again. The interior is neutral and can accommodate hundreds of tourists, but the cuisine it serves is
simply fantastic. Start with the pepper seared beef carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and truffle emulsion and move
on to delicious mains as diverse as red wine braised duck
leg and mustard glazed pork chop with roasted vegetables. All-you-can-eat breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets
are also available for 15, 11 and 20, respectively. You
can start your day early as the breakfast buffet is served
from 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. If you have children with you then drop them off in the kids game room.
QF-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel.
(+371) 67 77 22 11, www.restaurantesplanade.lv. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (11 - 18). TAW
GARAGE (DEMOKRTISKS VNA BRS)
This modern grey space with cement floors below and
steel beams overhead would truly be reminiscent of a garage were it not for the central open plan cooking island
that also houses bottles of wine and oysters on ice. The
simple, yet refined menu varies depending on the time of
day: breakfast, lunch, aperitif hour or dinner. Try one of the
chefs three-course meal specials or just enjoy a plate of
Mediterranean-style tapas or oysters on the half shell with
a glass or bottle of wine.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga
bazrs), tel. (+371) 26 62 88 33, www.vinabars.lv. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (7 - 14). A
MIO
This tiny restaurant has managed to squeeze several
tables, a small bar and an open-plan kitchen into a cosy
space elegantly decorated with chandeliers, a number of
stylish mirrors and other design elements that can best
be described as Provenal. Excellent service, dedicated
chefs and great international cuisine are the hallmarks
of Mio. The days specials are listed on the blackboard,
but you can often order breakfast food well into the afternoon. Prices are by no means cheap, but the fantastic
staff, the imaginative menu and the refined ambience
are worth the expense.QC-4, Blaumaa 15, tel. (+371)
28 14 31 39. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). A
MUTE
At first glance it might seem like just another trendy caf
with a bright white interior and a summer terrace, but if
you venture farther into the space youll be rewarded with
a darkly coloured atrium bathed in natural light from the
glass ceiling. Sit among planted birch trees and order fantastic cuisine cooked with locally sourced ingredients by
a team of dedicated chefs behind a glass partition. Hardto-find Latvian microbrews are also available as well as
signature cocktails and breakfast food like eggs benedict
or Florentine is served on weekdays until 12:00 or 15:00 at
the weekend.QB-5, Trbatas 63, tel. (+371) 26 00 36 36.
Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (8 - 18). AW
43
Restaurants
MUUSU
You cant miss the huge terrace on Alberta iela - Rigas
masterpiece of art nouveau architecture - so if you appreciate upmarket international cuisine and a good selection
of fine wine then have a seat and take in the view. The service is almost too attentive, but most people wont mind
being fawned over by attractive, smiling wait staff. The
interior is a mix of old and new with whitewashed brick
walls, chairs covered in local linens and lots of romantic
candlelight. People-watchers will no doubt appreciate the
large shop front windows.QB-3, Antonijas 13 (entrance
from Alberta), tel. (+371) 26 69 99 66, www.muusu.lv.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at I-2, Skru 6, tel. (+371) 25
77 25 52. (10 - 20). AW
NEW
PREGO
Despite its decidedly Italian name, Prego is actually a cosy
restaurant serving refined international cuisine from traditional Cobb salads and fried calamari to Moroccan lamb
tagines and even old classics like chicken Kiev. Pastas, risotto and antipasti are, however, available, not to mention
unusual starters like the langoustine hot dog. Inside youll
find an elegant, yet intentionally shabby interior of high
ceilings, huge windows for people watching and roughly
hewn wooden floors and tables. Considering its posh locale, Prego is actually reasonably priced, so grazie to the
management!QF-2, Antonijas 6a, tel. (+371) 67 79 98 22.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15). A
RESTAURANT ELEMENTS
This stylish silver, brown and white restaurant on the
ground floor of the Tallink Hotel Riga serves a variety of
healthy international cuisine prepared with local ingredients when possible. It also boasts the only open-plan
grill bar in Riga and offers a special treat for adventurous
diners. A hot volcanic rock is brought to your table and
you can cook any meat of your choosing on it under the
supervision of your server. A breakfast buffet and affordably priced lunch special are also available.QD-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60, www.tallinkhotels.com.
Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15).
PTAXW
SERVICE & TIPPING

Although service at Riga restaurants has improved by
leaps and bounds over the years, you shouldnt expect
flawless service unless youre at an upmarket establishment. So, to tip or not to tip? Locals are pretty stingy
with tips, called dzeramnauda (literally drinking money),
but 10% is expected from foreigners, which isnt a bad
deal unless of course youve been ignored by an insolent
teenager at lunch, which, unfortunately, does still occur.
Most wait staff speak English, Russian and Latvian and
perhaps even one more foreign language like Swedish
or Norwegian.
SOKRATS (SOCRATES)
Just look for the peach-coloured neo-Gothic building that
looks like a castle to find this hotel restaurant serving a
variety of international cuisine from upmarket versions of
simple dishes like fish and chips to mussels in curry coconut milk sauce. You can peruse the quotes of famous philosophers on the walls while you sip a pinot noir from their
extensive wine list. Breakfast is served 07:00 - 11:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 11:00.QB-3, Elizabetes 21 (Monika Centrum
Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 03 19 17, www.centrumhotels.com.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. (7 - 14). AW
VAIRK SAULES
The sleek, yet warm and cosy interior of this restaurant
chain is cutting edge, the service is genuinely friendly and
the food is fantastic. You can choose from two separate
menus, one that specialises in Italian and international
cuisine like pizzas, homemade pastas, seafood and even
vegetarian dishes, and another that lists a variety of Asian
specialities from sushi and sashimi to tasty stir fries and
noodle dishes. The restaurant has two different entrances,
but the space on the left also provides a kids play area
for the little ones. A childrens menu is available.QC-4,
Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28 78/(+371) 80 00 90 80,
www.vairaksaules.lv. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. (6 - 12). TAS
VIESISTABA VINTAGE
Located next to the Blaumaa iela entrance of the Galleria
Riga shopping centre, this unique concept caf serves international cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but in
the evenings its often open for culinary, wine and cocktail
classes. You can expect a stylish yellow and grey interior
with hardwood floors and a small menu of refined food.
The Guest Room also specialises in wine, which is on display in the corner, and it organises a variety of catering
seminars as well as a culinary tour of the Central Market
followed by lunch prepared by the restaurants chefs as
well as the tour participants.QC-4, Blaumaa 10, tel.
(+371) 27 09 03 59, www.viesistaba.lv. Open 12:00 22:00. Closed Sun. (6 - 12). AW
NEW
ZOSTE
This North American-style restaurant and bar serves modern takes on classic US comfort food. Its California-trained
Latvian-American chef isnt afraid to use unconventional
seasonings and sauces, hence the sweet potato fries with
Sriracha mayonnaise. Order a Philly cheese steak or maybe a
pulled pork Bahn mai slider for lunch or drop by in the evening for hearty clam chowder followed by a venison fillet,
but bear in mind that the menu will change from to time.
Despite the excellent food and posh locale in Berga Bazrs,
Zoste has a cosy, casual quality thats only enhanced by the
wooden bar stools, timber ceilings and huge windows on
three sides. Free water on each table is yet another welcome
American touch.QC-4, Elizabetes 85a (Berga Bazrs), tel.
(+371) 22 02 66 02. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (7 - 14). AW
Restaurants
IRISH
PADDY WHELANS IRISH PUB & SPORTS BAR
Since its opening in 1995, Rigas first Irish pub has been an
expat favourite. With a wide variety of foreign and domestic
beers on draught, a classic Hibernian interior and more flat
screen TVs showing live sports than you can shake a shillelagh at, Paddys has loads to offer a thirsty football fan. In
addition to its usual offering of pub grub, a new menu of
authentic Indian cuisine has been added to its repertoire for
those craving a delicious chicken tikka masala or maybe a
samosa starter.QI-2, Grcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50,
paddy@pub.lv, www.pub.lv. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 03:00. (4 - 10). AEXS
ITALIAN
NAPLES
Naples specialises in all manner of Italian cuisine including
antipasti, salads, pastas, pizzas and a few main courses. In
the winter you can sit inside this cosy space decked out
in designer wooden furniture and enjoy a delicious meal
and a fantastic view, but when the mercury rises in summer this is one of the hottest venues to enjoy a cocktail in
the sun. The vista of the picturesque yacht marina is certainly a draw, but most people come to enjoy its private
swimming pool and the surrounding terrace populated by
beautiful people on deck chairs. An affordable lunch special is available on weekdays.QB-2/3, Andrejostas 2k-2,
tel. (+371) 25 77 55 40. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00. (5 - 12). ALSW
OLIVE OIL TRADING CO
This fabulous Italian restaurant on Castle Square offers
a simple and cosy, yet somehow elegant interior that
consists of checked tablecloths, chandeliers, lots of fresh
flowers and plenty of paintings and photos including a
black and white of Godfather Brando - Hollywoods most
famous olive oil merchant. You can enjoy a wide selection
of antipasti as well as some pasta and risotto dishes and
roughly half a dozen pizzas not to mention main courses
like tuna fillet with asparagus. Finally, its cheap two-course
business lunch with water, freshly baked bread and olives
is an offer you simply cant refuse!QH-1, Pils laukums 4 3, tel. (+371) 29 53 35 23, www.olive-oil.lv. Open 11:00
- 24:00. (7 - 14). PJAW
SALE & PEPE KAF
This quiet little bistro located on a charming, narrow cobblestone street in Old Riga offers half a dozen tables and
mauve-coloured walls decorated with framed wooden
spatulas. The menu of tasty, authentic Italian cuisine includes colour photos of each dish, so you know exactly
what youre getting. You can also peruse all of the freshly
made desserts at the bar, while youre waiting for your
food or just order a glass of wine from the Apennine peninsula.QH-2, Gleznotju 7, tel. (+371) 67 68 75 48, www.
salepepekafe.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (4 10). AS
45
Restaurants
JAPANESE
PLANETA
Although this modern Japanese restaurant is a good choice
for dinner, youd be mad not to take advantage of its excellent daytime specials that include a wide variety of bento
and dim sum lunches with tea or coffee for only 7. You can
also create your own meal by mixing and matching different
cuisine or just stick with the sushi and sashimi, which can
be enjoyed on the ground floor or upstairs where diners are
afforded great views of Cathedral Square (Doma laukums).
Sake cocktails and single malt Japanese whiskey are also
available.QI-2, u 16 (entrance from Tirgou), tel.
(+371) 67 22 38 55, www.planetasushi.lv. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (7 - 15). JAW
TOKYO CITY
Although the sleek, Japanese minimalist interior and the
wait staff in pseudo-kimono lend this restaurant a more
formal feel, comfortable couches and flat screen TVs
showing football and hockey games instantly make one
want to relax and lounge about. Traditional sushi, sashimi
and hot main courses are not exactly for the budget-minded, but a kids menu and an affordable business lunch
certainly are. In fact, cocktails and draught Valmiermuias
beer are surprisingly inexpensive, so kampai!QH-3, Barona 2, tel. (+371) 67 22 77 64, www.tokyocity.lv. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Also at G-3, Trbatas
2, tel. (+371) 67 24 22 42. (6 - 14). A
HOME DELIVERY
GAN BEI
Charge: 3 in Riga or free for orders over 21. Delicious
Asian and Indian food from the chain of Gan Bei restaurants.Qtel. (+371) 67 22 52 25, www.ganbei.lv.
Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30.
PIZZA HOUSE
Delivery charge: 2 - 4. The name and logo looks is a
complete rip-off of the Pizza Hut chain, but if youd like
a pizza delivered to your door then you can give it a
shot.Qtel. (+371) 80 00 57 57, www.pizzahouse.lv.
Open 11:30 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:30. V
PIZZA LUL
Big New York-style pizzas and salads. Delivery within
49 minutes: free of charge for orders over 14, otherwise you pay a 3 charge.Qtel. (+371) 80 00 58 58,
www.lulu.lv. Open 24hrs. A
VAIRK SAULES
Charge: free within the centre and Prdaugava for
orders over 14. Order soups, salads, sushi, international dishes, Asian cuisine or thin crust pizzas to your
door.Qtel. (+371) 88 33, www.vairaksaules.lv. Open
10:00 - 22:00.
YAKUZA
When you walk in youre immediately greeted by a retinue
of women in red dresses eager to show you to a table in
one of two rooms sparsely decorated with unusual cloth
lamps, what look like cutting boards covered in Japanese
characters and a sumo wrestler wearing shades. Although
the restaurant specialises in sushi and Japanese cuisine, if
youre not big on raw fish or teriyaki sauce you can also order pizza and pasta. Asian brews and plum wine are available if youve had enough of Latvian beer and spirits and
we didnt see any dodgy tattooed men hanging around, so
the place seems to be free of Yakuza, too!QC-4, ertrdes
22, tel. (+371) 67 89 83 37, www.yakuza.lv. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at
B-3/4, Elizabetes 10. (7 - 14). A
KEBABS
COOK DOOR
The name is a bit odd and the interior of black and brown
walls and a grey floor is thoroughly boring, but this Egyptian-owned business does offer a pretty decent beef or
chicken kebab with garlic, curry or steak sauces. A small
buffet of affordable Middle Eastern rice and meatball
dishes is also available, which you can enjoy in another
room decorated with red carpeting and movie posters like
a cinema waiting room of sorts. Dr. Pepper cola can also be
bought here in cans.QB-4, Dzirnavu 51 (entrance from
Skolas). Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Closed
Sun. (3 - 4). S
FOOD BOX
After years of searching for a great kebab in Riga, weve
finally found one at the modestly named Food Box.
This small, casual eatery offers delicious yet inexpensive dner kebabs, falafel and exotic pide (a pizza of
sorts) served by a young Turkish entrepreneur. The only
drawback seems to be the crowds at lunchtime. The
hot sauce here is also refreshingly spicy, and not toned
down for local palates like at other kebab joints, and
free tea is available from a community samovar.QF-2,
Antonijas 6a (entrance from Pumpura), tel. (+371) 28
20 59 98. Open 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. (3 - 6). S
KOREAN
SORAKSANS
Nealrly everything about this authentic restaurant, from
its rustic interior decorated with traditional masks and
paper lanterns to the delicious cuisine, is fantastic. Order
the infamous kim chi, guaranteed to put hairs on your
chest, or one of the many savoury meat dishes served
in sizzling skillets or red-hot ceramic pots. You can also
throw caution to the wind and cook your own meal at
the table. We recommend the posotgogipokom which
tastes much better than it sounds.QH-1, Miesnieku 12,
tel. (+371) 67 22 90 68, www.soraksans.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (6 - 12). A
Restaurants
KOSHER
CAF LCHAIM
Located around the corner from the Jewish museum
this small caf may lack atmosphere, but all of the food it
serves is kosher. Soups, chicken and fish dishes and cheap
pita with falafel sandwiches can be had, as well as Jewish
souvenirs, books and press. The menu isnt available in Hebrew, but it is written in English.QC-4, Skolas 6 (entrance
from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 67 28 02 35, www.jews.lv.
Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 until sunset for the Sabbath, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. (4 - 8). S
NEW
MEATING PLACE
Although the pearl-coloured pleather chairs, brownish
gold walls and the tiled ceiling that looks like the bottom
of a swimming pool lend this restaurant a stiff quality, the
helpful staff and the warmth from the wood-fired oven
certainly improve the ambience. If youre looking for a refined kosher meal in Riga, this is absolutely the place to go
as all of its delicious, if slightly pricey, dishes are expertly
prepared and well presented. You can order anything from
oven-baked fish and Armenian-style meat dishes to classic
tongue and chicken liver salads accompanied by a Kosher
wine or a shot of chilled vodka. Were not sure if the name
is meant to be clever or an unfortunate typo, but well give
them the benefit of the doubt.QC-5, Lpla 52, tel.
(+371) 26 68 74 69, kosheriga.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Fri, Sat. (12 - 16). A
PRESS BOX
In Your Pocket is a model of the genre, packed with useful info, and well written.
The Daily Telegraph
Brutally honest.
Wall Street Journal
Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In
Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by
comparison.
The Independent
From Albania to Ukraine In Your Pocket is a wonderful
source of boutique hotels, spas and great little bars.
Elle
The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike
many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city.
The Irish Times
The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets... have become a European publishing phenomenon.
International Herald Tribune
47
Restaurants
LATVIAN
ALUS ARSENLS
This classic brick cellar just off of Castle Square offers a
unique interior of low vaulted ceilings adorned with painted
fall foliage, stained glass lamps and wooden tables, benches
and chairs. The Beer Arsenal specialises in huge servings of
Latvian fare like metre-long sausages, beef tongue salad,
pigs ears stuffed with caraway cheese and its signature
oven baked pork leg for two served on a wooden platter
with a flaming torch. Naturally, a good selection of beer is
also on offer including its own light and dark microbrews.
Cheap daily specials under 5 are a bargain.QH-1, Pils laukums 4 (entrance from Arsenla), tel. (+371) 67 32 26 75,
www.alus-arsenals.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12). AX RC
FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend into
the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of
affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine from kotletes (a type of meatball) and grey peas with
bacon to hard-to-find country dishes like pork and pearl
barley stew. Although its a favourite among frugal students,
its also popular with anyone who appreciates good food,
drink and music under medieval brick vaulted ceilings.QI-2,
Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv. Open
12:00 - 04:00, Wed 12:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 07:00, Sat
14:00 - 07:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. (3 - 7). AE
KEY TO RIGA
Located on Cathedral Square, this large restaurant has a
huge menu of Latvian classics with cheeky names that are
often references to the legendary comedic Latvian film
Vella kalpi (The Devils Servants) about the fictional guardians of Riga who are part Three Musketeers and part Three
Stooges. Youll find everything here from grey peas, potato
pancakes and schnitzels to more exotic dishes like blood
sausage and even bulls testicles! You can also take part
in a pork knuckle eating contest and win a free beer and a
souvenir to remind you of your achievement. The interior
is a mix of the rustic and the medieval, but we liked the
wooden chandeliers with blown glass and the cowhide
benches, not to mention the expansive summer terrace.
QH-1, Doma laukums 8A, tel. (+371) 28 37 07 47, www.
keytoriga.lv. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14). JAE
LIDO ALUS STA
The most central of the LIDO peoples Latvian theme restaurants has a buffet where you order your chicken or pork
shashlik and scoop up heaps of potatoes, Latvian grey
peas, sour cream and salad. Unfortunately, the annoyingly
long queues of hungry tourists have convinced its owners to raise its prices substantially, but to their credit, Alus
Sta now accepts credit cards. Have a delicious Uavas
draught beer or home-brewed LIDO ale while you wait.
QI-2, Tirgou 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 31, www.lido.lv.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10). AXS
LIDO LEISURE CENTER (LIDO ATPTAS CENTRS)

If Paul Bunyon built a log cabin in Latvia it would look like
this! Mr. irsons of the LIDO Empire has outdone himself
with the biggest buffet of home cookin this country has
ever seen. Enter the tremendous cellar and discover another
restaurant with two bars which serve beer brewed on the
premises. Weekends are family days with various activities
for the kids including in-line skating and theres live singing
and dancing every night from 19:00. Take bus N12 from the
train station directly or tram N3, 7 or 9 to the Atptas centrs
LIDO stop and walk about 5 - 10 minutes in the direction
of the huge windmill.QKrasta 76, tel. (+371) 67 50 44 20,
www.lido.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 7). TES
LIDO SPICE
As with most LIDO Latvian fast food restaurants, you have
to see this one to believe it. All of the usual local foods are
on offer as well as the ubiquitous faux ethnographic design
elements, but walk behind the main cafeteria area and discover a childrens paradise. A nearly life-sized two-storey
castle surrounded by an electric go-cart track is guaranteed
to cure any child of ADD, if only for a few hours.QLielirbes
29 (Spice shopping centre), tel. (+371) 67 60 92 02, www.
lido.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7). TAS
LIDO VRMANTIS
A great place to eat a huge meal for cheap, this restaurant looks like medieval Europe and interwar Latvia collided and produced a unique space decorated with ethnic symbols, stone and stained glass. Bop about to local
umm-paa-paa music and help yourself to Baltic cuisine
as well as salad and fruit bars. When it gets crowded at
lunch time, it also opens the cellar to provide more space.
If youre lucky enough to get a seat near a window on the
ground floor youll be rewarded with a great view of the
park.QC-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62 89, www.
lido.lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7). AS
VALMIERMUIAS ALUS
Although one of Latvias best brews is produced just outside the northern town of Valmiera, the brewery also has its
own so-called embassy in Rigas trendy Brina iela neighbourhood. Taste a variety of quality brews on draught or in
bottles and order tasty nouvelle Latvian cuisine from slowly-cooked pork belly with seasonal greens to oven baked
organic lamb. Locally made fruit and berry wines are also
on the menu, but bear in mind that it might be hard to get a
table on weekend evenings. The Latvian meat platter goes
perfectly with the beers and affordable daily lunch specials
are also on offer.QA-5, A. Brina 9a, tel. (+371) 25 47 34 73,
www.valmiermuiza.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (6 - 8). A
More food and features at

Restaurants
MEAPARKS CAFS
ALIKI MANGAOS
The owners of this roadside tavern are so confident in the
quality of their shashliks that they chose a remote location
on the far end of the park. Order a huge skewer of meat
and an Uavas draught and then choose your side dishes:
chopped onions, tomatoes and chives and freshly baked
Armenian bread. Its that simple. Take tram N11 to the
Meaparks stop and walk to the song festival grounds. Then
walk northwest on Ostas prospekts to Mores.QMores 22,
tel. (+371) 67 39 52 57. Open 09:00 - 21:00. (4 - 7).
MEDIEVAL
LSTE
Tucked away in a charming Old Riga alleyway, this medieval-style restaurant is housed in a building that dates back
to the 15th century. You can order any number of delicious
dishes from classic Latvian pork knuckle, moose meat medallions and stewed rabbit to grilled eel, quail and lamb.
For something more exotic, try the medieval feast for four
that is cooked according to recipes from 1454. Plenty of local beer served in ceramic mugs is available as well as Latvian wine and homemade black currant or apple spirits.
A picturesque terrace is located outside during summer,
while the brick interior is decorated with memorabilia and
hunting trophies.QH-1, Angliku 2, tel. (+371) 25 50 52
68. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (10 - 17). AI
ONE OF THE BEST
The UK newspaper The Independent recently published

a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: inyourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is
what the newspaper had to say about us:
Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so),
the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem
tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities
have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and
all the key content from the print editions has been
collated on this well-organised and userfriendly website. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.
PIE KRISTAPA KUNGA

Legend has it that a medieval warrior named Kristaps travelled all over the continent and even the Holy Land returning to Riga with trophies and riches, not to mention recipes,
which are now used in this restaurant, his former house.
This modern fable serves as the backdrop for this huge
monument to kitsch offering king-sized portions of Latvian,
Russian, European and Caucasian cuisine. Patrons can also
watch sports on the big screen TV in the medieval cellar or
smoke a hookah in the middle east room. Order the trout
and you can watch them catch it in the pond downstairs.
QB-4, Bazncas 27/29, tel. (+371) 67 29 48 99, www.
piekristapa.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15). AEX
ROZENGRLS
If the giant wine casks on Old Rigas narrowest street dont
get your attention, the people in funny costumes certainly
will. The citys only authentic medieval restaurant is a hit
with tourists and with good reason. The candlelit cellar,
already mentioned in ancient writings as early as 1293,
was once used for special events by the town hall. Today
it serves only food available hundreds of years ago, hence
the absence of potatoes and tomatoes. Giant portions of
delicious, if expensive, cuisine including pork, wild game
and local fish are available as well as unique drinks that
once graced the tables of both nobles and peasants.QI2, Rozena 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 03 56, www.rozengrals.lv.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (15 - 25). A
MEDITERRANEAN
MERCATO
In keeping with the general market theme of Mercato, a
deli counter bursting with imported meats, cheeses and
olives is available at one end of this modern grey and
white space decorated with unusual art printed on fabric.
Delve a little deeper and youll find a huge buffet, which
can be had for as little as 6, or you can continue on to the
more formal seating area and peruse the menu that lists
everything from antipasti platters and salads to meat and
seafood dishes. Order a healthy hemp chai tea while you
wait for your Brie stuffed Portobello mushrooms.QB-4,
Stabu 10/1, tel. (+371) 29 10 58 51. Open 10:30 - 23:00.
(5 - 18). ASW
RIVIERA
Given its name, it comes as no surprise that this upmarket restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine and what can
best be described as a modern take on French Provenal
interior design with hung ceramic plates here and there,
white porcelain chandeliers, simple smooth stone mosaics on the walls and lots of wine bottles encased in glass.
The large shop front windows are also perfect for people
watching, a fact that isnt lost on the suits and the ladies
who lunch crowd that often dine here. Enjoy fresh seafood cooked over a wood-fired grill, classics like chateaubriand and dorado served for two and an affordable lunch
special.QB-3, Antonijas 13, tel. (+371) 26 60 59 30, www.
rivierarestorans.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (12 - 20). A
Restaurants
NEW ZEALAND
PIZZA
KIWI BAR
Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish
pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the
Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar
while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch
sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety
of pub food from burgers, breakfasts and meat pies to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring
Indian Raja.QI-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www.
kiwibar.lv. Open 09:00 - 05:00. (5 - 10). JAW
CHARLIE PIZZA
Although Charlie Pizza is a large Baltic chain of inexpensive
pizzerias where one might expect to see teenage wait staff
in silly, degrading costumes, a step inside makes one feel
as if theyve just entered an exclusive Moscow nightclub
decked out in purple crushed velvet seats, black Venetianstyle glass chandeliers, a shiny silver ceiling and faux Ionic
columns, not to mention a few flat screen TVs. You can take
your pick of dozens of pizzas and calzones, some of which
are incredibly cheap, or try a main course of pasta, schnitzels or steaks. Cocktails are also available as well as some
affordable local beers.QH-2, u 19 (Doma laukums),
tel. (+371) 27 05 19 16, www.charliepizza.lv. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Also at Lielirbes 29 (Spice).
Open 09:00 - 22:00. (4 - 9). AS
ORGANIC
ECOCATERING TELPA
Its unusual location in what looks like a forlorn factory
opposite the Vidzeme Market also lends this place a hip,
speakeasy atmosphere as youll have to navigate some
stairs and hallways to find it. Inside youll discover a tempting buffet of organic starters, main courses and desserts
(until 15:00) that have all been made with locally produced
ingredients like free-range chickens and organic vegetables. A small dinner menu is available in the evening. The
shabby-chic interior of wooden plank walls and an antique
cast iron stove is almost as impressive as the affordable
price tag for a refined all-you-can-eat meal.QB-5, Matsa
8, tel. (+371) 20 37 11 70, www.ecocatering.lv. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. ALW
OUTDOOR TERRACES
ROCKABILLY HOUSE
This large beer garden on Lvu square prides itself on
its huge selection of foreign and domestic beer, its extensive menu and its live rockabilly music concerts that
take place every day. In fact, even the wait staff dress up
in rockabilly style clothing! You can also order wine and
cocktails or even a fine cigar by the central fireplace, but
many come here to watch sports on a number of flat
screen TVs. Its also a prime location for people watching
and its nearly always full of boisterous patrons.QH-2,
Kau 17 (Lvu laukums), tel. (+371) 26 65 63 68. Open
10:00 - 24:00. AEK
PIZZA LUL
Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie served in
several popular restaurants or delivered home (order online at www.lulu.lv). The most central outlet on Blaumaa
is small and cosy, and looks a bit like a 1950s malt shop.
Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch
or at 04:00 after a night of clubbing.QC-4, Blaumaa 5a,
tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Open 24hrs. Also at
I-2, Grcinieku 7, tel. (+371) 67 86 04 04. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. (3 - 5). VS
NEW
SMALL PIZZA
Just look for the huge window at the beginning of Brvbas
thats brimming with tempting focaccia sandwiches and
pizza. You can order a hot panini stuffed with meat, peppers and onions, try a slab of lasagne or maybe sample
something from the big buffet in this yellow and brown
interior illuminated by black industrial-style lamps. The
owners claim that most of the ingredients are imported
from Italy and were inclined to believe them as the food is
truly tasty and, best of all, incredibly affordable, hence all
of the students. You can also have a beer with your meal,
but Sanpellegrino fruit drinks, Dr.Pepper and Mountain
Dew are also available.QG-3, Brvbas bulvris 30, tel.
(+371) 20 28 28 21, www.smallpizza.lv. Open 09:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (2 - 4). ASW
51
Restaurants
RUSSIAN
LIDO KRIEVU STA ( )
The LIDO people have built a massive Russian restaurant
just off of Maskavas (Moscow Street) with colourful interior of elaborately painted oak beams and hanging matroshka dolls. All of the classic staples such as dumplings and
borscht are available as well as Russian brews and even
rhubarb juice. Take trams N7 or 9 to the engaraga iela
stop.Qengaraga 3, tel. (+371) 67 13 49 30, www.lido.lv.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7).
TVOCIS VAA
Walk into this upmarket Russian restaurant and youll feel
like youve strolled onto the set of Doctor Zhivago before the revolution brought down the aristocracy. Uncle
Vanyas elegant interior is loaded with shelves crammed
full of old books, ceramic figurines and other antiques and
the walls are covered in tsarist-era black and white photos and reproductions of classic Russian paintings. The
menu offers modern versions of Slavic cuisine presented
in a unique way. You can also order homemade spirits like
horseradish flavoured vodka and black currant liqueur
served in chilled glasses or carafes.QH-2, Smilu 16, tel.
(+371) 27 88 69 63. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (10 - 20). A
SEAFOOD
GASTRONOME
If youre looking for the ultimate seafood experience in
Riga and youre ready to spare no expense then look no
further than this elegant upmarket restaurant on the
ground floor of Latvias largest hotel. You can take a seat at
the raw bar and choose from a staggering number of fresh
oysters and other delicacies or move on to the restaurant
where you can pick your own lobster or enjoy Chilean
sea bass, jumbo Senegalese prawns, scallops and other
delights grilled to perfection. Naturally, an excellent selection of wine and spirits is also available, not to mention
an elegant interior.QC-4, Brvbas 31 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 15 20 80, www.gastronome.lv.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15 - 25). A
MENU DECODER
SITES UN DILLTES (HERRING & DILL)

No longer solely the domain of ancient gold-toothed
women in hair nets and dropping pantyhose, the fish pavilion of the Riga Central Market is now home to a refined
little eatery that specialises in whatever creatures of the
sea are fresh that day. Order a Valmiermuia brew and fish
and chips and watch the mayhem unfold beyond the confines of this peaceful oasis. Seafood soup, platters and salads are also available to enjoy on the spot or to take away.
Its a little pricey for the market, but still a welcome addition.QJ-3, Centrltirgus 3, tel. (+371) 29 61 40 12. Open
08:00 - 18:00. (7 - 10). AS
ZVEJNIEKA DLS (FISHERMANS SON)
Named after a famous Latvian novel and film, The Fishermans Son is more of a fish restaurant than a seafood
venue, as you wont find any scallops or lobsters on the
menu, but plenty of salmon, catfish, trout and herring
from the Baltic Sea and Latvias rivers and lakes. A few
dishes from animals that dont have gills are also available
as well as a small breakfast menu, but bear in mind that
its location at a major tourist thoroughfare means that
even a local beer will cost you dearly. If not for its new,
squeaky-clean appearance, the interior of tiled walls, dark
wood and hanging chandeliers might make you wonder
if youve stumbled into a classic Belgian caf.QI-2, Kau
2 (entrance from Kungu), tel. (+371) 67 22 75 05, www.
zvejniekadels.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14 - 22). A
SHASHLIK JOINTS
ALIKI MANGAOS
The owners of this roadside tavern are so confident in the
quality of their shashliks that they chose a remote location on the far end of Meaparks. Order a huge skewer
of meat and an Uavas draught and then choose your
side dishes: chopped onions, tomatoes and chives and
freshly baked Armenian bread. Its that simple. Take tram
N11 to the Meaparks stop and walk to the song festival grounds. Then walk northwest on Ostas prospekts to
Mores.QMores 22, tel. (+371) 67 39 52 57. Open 09:00
- 21:00. (5 - 8).
SPANISH
MADRIDE
salti
salads
vista
chicken
If youre envisioning an upmarket Madrid restaurant where
zupas
soups
ple duck
the suckling pig is so soft the maitre d can cut it with a
uzkodas appetisers
kartupei
potatoes
plate then think again. This neighbourhood caf serves
otrie dieni
mains
rsi rice
tasty peasant food for the common man, which is depiedevas
side dishes
drzei vegetables
livered to your table by its Spanish chef. You can sample
mrces
sauces
maize
bread
dozens of olive, cheese, stuffed pepper and chorizo tapas
saldais
dessert
sviests
butter
or try the days specials, which wont disappoint. The inckgaa
pork
vns
wine
expensive Csu beer on draught is almost tempting, but
liellopu gaa
beef
dens
water
we recommend the Kalimotxo (iced red wine and cola) or
jras veltes
seafood
alus
beer
Kalimotxo blanco (iced white wine and Sprite), which the
zivis
fish
piens
milk
waitress assured us was a student favourite.QB-4, Hanzas
lasis
salmon
kokteii
cocktails
2A, tel. (+371) 67 33 86 32. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00
- 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 7).
Restaurants
STEAK HOUSES
STEIKU HAOSS (STEAK CHAOS)
Europeans often make fun of Americans but for some
reason they just cant get enough of their culture. If you
like thick, juicy steaks with giant Idaho baked potatoes,
wait staff in what look like line dancing outfits, then walk
through the swinging saloon doors and get ready for a
feast. The servings are impressive, but bear in mind that
the prices are also Texas-sized.QI-2, Audju 2, tel. (+371)
67 22 56 99, www.steikuhaoss.lv. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
Also on H-2, Meistaru 25, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 19. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00; C-4, Trbatas 41/43,
tel. (+371) 67 27 27 07. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00. (14 - 22). AE
TEA
APSARA
Lovers of imported dried leaves can enjoy a wide selection
of teas from Asia in a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere.
Both outlets are located in charming wooden houses in city
centre parks where you can sit on huge oriental-style pillows and let the cares of the world slip away. Rumour has
it that the second floor has become a love shack of sorts
for amorous couples in the evenings, so you might want to
avoid them or get there early depending on your mood and
the company youre with.QC-4, Trbatas 2 (entrance from
Elizabetes), tel. (+371) 67 21 24 36, www.apsara.lv. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Also at D-4, Barona 2a. A
KAMA
This laidback tea house isnt really the place to get your
daily infusion of Early Grey or English breakfast before
heading off to work. Kama takes its tea very seriously.
Take your pick of dozens of Japanese, Chinese, Indian,
South American and Latvian country teas in this funky
room that smells of incense. Decorated with mismatched, yet comfortable furniture including couches
and lots of pillows, not to mention Asian and African
wood carvings, its a relaxing place to enjoy a warm
drink and some Eastern snacks while playing a board
game with friends or surfing the web. The enthusiastic
young man behind the bar, who was wearing a traditional Latvian tie or prievte as a headband, explained
the whole process of creating a great pot of tea.QG-1,
Jkaba 26/28, tel. (+371) 67 32 30 07. Open 12:00 24:00. W
SMILU PULKSTENIS
Its always difficult to get a seat at this tiny teashop
owing to its size and the delicious cakes and pastries it bakes on the premises. Tea, coffee and freshly
squeezed juices are all available here in a pleasant, if
a bit cramped atmosphere. The giant hourglass hanging above the door has somehow managed to escape
destruction despite the preponderance of inebriated
youth that roam Old Riga in the evenings.QH-2, Meistaru 8, tel. (+371) 26 49 47 77. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
53
Restaurants
TEX-MEX
KLONDAIKA
The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many
westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in
one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer,
head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled
the zelta raktuves (gold mines), go up one level to the saloon-style restaurant or down to the bar that only closes
for two hours each morning. The Tex-Mex food is a few
degrees shy of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively
cheap.QC-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66, www.
klondaika.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Bar
open 09:00 - 07:00. (5 - 9). AXW
TEX MEX REPUBLIC
Run by the popular Klondaika chain, this latest endeavour
has a much more American feel and not just because its located in a shopping centre. The most striking features of the
kitschy interior include lamps covered in colourful skulls la
the Mexican Day of the Dead, cacti (both authentic and fake)
and lots of prominent sayings on the walls deriding vegetarians. You can order big burgers and steaks, fajitas, burritos,
enchiladas and even chimichangas as well as some seafood
dishes, but nearly every meal includes something that was
once breathing. Corona and Bud are available in bottles, but
thankfully Latvian beer can also be had. QIeriu 3 (Domina
Shopping), tel. (+371) 67 63 10 79, www.texmexrepublic.
com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (5 - 12). AW
THAI
KOTAI
Kotai is a small Thai takeaway that also happens to have a
small tastefully decorated seating area with six tables. The
small menu of steamed rice dishes and soups was difficult
to fathom, even with the help of the friendly wait staff, so
we just trusted their recommendation and ordered the
lunch special, which included a starter, a main course and
green tea. The iced coffee was also tasty and we decided
to stay a little longer as Hangover II was being screened on
the TV as we ate. QI-2, Kau 2 (entrance from Kungu),
tel. (+371) 67 75 55 50, www.kotai.lv. Open 11:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6). AVS
UKRAINIAN
DIPRO
This authentic restaurant is full of elaborate woodcarvings
and intricate works of colourful embroidery for which the
Ukrainians are so justly renowned. Enjoy delicious vareniki
(potato dumplings), hearty borscht and, of course, that
ultimate staple of Cossack cuisine - chicken Kiev. A twocourse lunch special can be had for just under 5 and all
soup is served with rye bread and a dish of flavoured lard.
Order at the bar and the costumed female staff will bring
your food to your table inside or out on the terrace.QF-2,
Alunna 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 28 58, www.dnipro.lv. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (3 - 7). A
NEW
REIZ ODES (ONCE UPON A TIME IN ODESSA)
Although the old-fashioned floral print furniture and curtains may not be to everyones liking, the authentic Slavic
hospitality found at this restaurant is something to be
experienced. Begin your evening with a classic Ukrainian
starter such as salo (seasoned pork fat) and then move on
to delicious Black Sea cuisine from octopus and mussels to
lamb sausages or the traditional holopsi (stuffed cabbage
rolls). Reiz Odes also offers an impressive wine list and live
piano music at the weekend as well as a golden loo that
could rival Viktor Yanukovychs former powder room in
Kyiv.QC-4, ertrdes 20, tel. (+371) 26 18 78 98. Open
09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (8 - 12). A
UPMARKET
AQUA LUNA
Aqua Luna offers superb international cuisine including
the oysters and the stewed Irish beef cheek that we tried.
The service is generally attentive and musicians and DJs
keep affluent, well-dressed Rigans entertained in the evenings. If youre looking for refined dining with great views
then you can hardly do better than this place. Reservations
recommended.QB-2, Andrejostas 4, tel. (+371) 67 65 09
22, www.aqualuna.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. (14 - 25). ALEW
BERGS RESTAURANT
Possibly the best restaurant in Riga, Bergs never disappoints. With a stylish interior that looks like it was ripped
out of the pages of Architectural Digest and an impressive
menu of haute cuisine cooked with local ingredients that
will satisfy even the most demanding palates, its guaranteed to make your fine dining experience a memorable
one. Special three- and five-course meals prepared by
chef Nauris Jakuko are also available. Breakfast is served
daily from 07:30 - 11:00 and brunch is available on Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 - 16:00.QC-4, Elizabetes
83/85 (Berga bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.
hotelbergs.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
(25 - 65). AW
BIBLIOTKA NO 1 RESTORNS
If youre looking for refined European cuisine in an elegant,
yet modern setting on two floors with fantastic views
of Vrmanes Park, there is no better option than Library
No.1. The interior is decorated with shelves full of books,
an entire wall of wine, funky booths framed by lots of
miniature pillows, wooden columns and huge overhead
lamps. The menu is seasonal and often includes anything
from scallops and oysters to nouvelle Latvian cuisine like
slow-cooked pork belly with spiced barley. Home-baked
bread is another bonus as is the local Valmiermuia
brew on draught and the fresh-cut flowers on each
table.QG-3, Trbatas 2, tel. (+371) 20 22 50 00, www.
restoransbiblioteka.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 24:00. (15 - 26). A
Restaurants
KOLONDE. OUR STORIES

You couldnt ask for a more perfect location. Housed in an
historic building surrounded by ionic columns, Kolonde
offers postcard quality views of the Freedom Monument
and the Laima Clock as well as the National Opera and its
gardens. The menu, which provides colourful photos of
each dish, specialises in gourmet Latvian and international
cuisine, which are prepared in the open plan kitchen by
the entrance. An early breakfast is also available not to
mention Latvian beer and cider and an extensive drinks
list that places an emphasis on Italian wines. Try the roast
pork belly with pearl barley, green peas and sweet sauerkraut served in an iron skillet.QH-3, Brvbas bulvris 26,
tel. (+371) 26 60 88 82, www.kolonade.lv. Open 07:30
- 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. (10 - 18). JAW
NEIBURGS
One of Rigas finest art nouveau buildings is home to a
stylish, upmarket restaurant offering both international
and Latvian-style cuisine for surprisingly reasonable
prices. Inside youll find grey walls covered by periodic art
exhibitions, light parquet floors and spider-like chandeliers made from black reading lamps. Order salads, pasta,
Australian steaks, Scottish salmon, local trout, huge turkey
burgers or affordable lunch specials in a refined setting
on a bustling cobblestone street flanked by bars and cafs.QI-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55 44, www.
neiburgs.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (8 - 15). A
PIRAMDA
This elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid has been
dubbed the little Louvre by the local press. Its impressive
international menu is guaranteed to satisfy even the most
demanding gourmet. Breakfast buffet from 06:30 - 10:30,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00 for 18; two- and three-course business lunch weekdays from 12:00 - 15:00 for 10 and 14,
respectively. It also offers great views of the park.QG-3,
Reimersa 1 (Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel), tel. (+371)
67 09 33 33, www.restaurantpiramida.lv. Open 18:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12 - 30). AW
RESTAURANT BELLEVUE
Located on the 11th floor of the Maritim Park Hotel Riga,
this elegant restaurant wasnt exaggerating when it called
itself Bellevue. Floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides afford diners spectacular views of the adjacent park as well
as Old Riga and the city centre across the river. Patrons
can expect sophisticated surroundings and service, not to
mention gourmet cuisine with a pronounced emphasis on
seafood. If youd like a little bit of everything, then try one of
the chefs set menus.QE-1, Slokas 1 (Maritim Park Hotel
Riga), tel. (+371) 67 06 90 40, www.restaurantbellevue.
lv. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (20 - 27). AW
Hungry for more?

55
Nightlife
Rigas nightlife scene has had its ups and downs over the
years, but, thankfully, neighbourhood pubs are still thriving and many clubs are once again open until the last paying customer leaves. Sadly many bars still close their doors
before midnight on weeknights and some strip clubs and
late-night bars are still out to scam tourists, so take those
beer goggles off and be vigilant.
SYMBOL KEY
BARS
J Old town location B Outside seating
CABO CAFE
Not unlike its namesake, Cabo is a laid back caf frequented by windsurfers during the day and wealthy Meaparks
residents with money to burn at night. Its excellent location on the shore of Lake ezers ensures beautiful views
year-round and its affordable drinks and experienced DJs
guarantee wild parties at the weekend. A surprisingly
cheap menu of inexpensive international food is served
from 12:00 - 22:00, but you can also just pop by for a Belgian brew or a strong cocktail by the beach. You can take
tram No.11 from Barona to the Hamburgas iela stop and
then walk down Annas Sakses iela about 10 minutes until
the street ends at the beach or just take a taxi.QAnnas
Sakses 19a, tel. (+371) 28 63 95 56, www.cabo.lv. Open
11:00 - 22:00. A
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
RC
CHOMSKY
Is this the Delta house? Walk inside Chomsky and you half
expect a toga-wearing John Belushi to greet you with a
beer and a belch. This old wooden building with its forlorn
interior of crumbling walls and furniture on their last legs
happens to be a favourite of local hipsters, artists and intellectuals, but if sagging couches and peeling paint doesnt
sound too appealing, you can always choose the private
courtyard in the summer. An eclectic selection of local underdog brews like Brlis and Ingver Alus is available, but
bear in mind that smoking is apparently back in fashion
among Rigas bohemians.QC-5, Lpla 68. Open 16:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
POOL & BILLIARDS

KLONDAIKA
Five pool tables for 6/hour.QD-4, Merea 3, tel. (+371)
67 22 16 40, www.klondaika.lv. Open 09:00 - 07:00.
Also at I-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 68 07. AW
NB
Dozens of pool, billiard and snooker tables for 6/hour
and relatively cheap drinks.QH-2, u 9, tel. (+371)
67 22 63 51, www.nb.lv/special-offers. Also on C-5,
aka 38a, tel. (+371) 67 28 44 06. Open 24hrs. AX
11 pool tables for roughly 5/hour.QE-2, Uzvaras 2/4,
tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.zelta.lv. Open 12:00 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. AX

O Casino
I Fireplace
V Home delivery
E Live music
Riga Card discounts
CITA PUSE
Rigas hottest hipster bar is appropriately housed in the
left corner of the Latvian Artists Union building, which
means that not only will you find a bohemian crowd of
painters, sculptors, journalists and other slackers here,
but also fantastic views of the Daugava river. Order foreign and domestic beers, snacks and international main
courses, which are prepared behind the long bar made
of old wooden doors. A Different Side also fancies itself
an art gallery so paintings are usually hung wherever
theres open space available on the walls. You can also
expect live music at the weekend, so stake your claim
on a comfortable couch and settle in for the night.QJ2, 11. Novembra krastmala 35, tel. (+371) 29 68 85 93.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun.
DM BAR RIGA
Depeche Mode has some of the most loyal fans that any
band could ever hope for and Baltic DM enthusiasts are
among the most dedicated. Although Tallinn has had a bar
inspired by the iconic group for several years, Latvias DMthemed pub only opened at the beginning of 2014. Watch
live concerts on flat screen TVs and order cocktails named
after famous songs like Strangelove, Black Celebration and
the non-alcoholic Behind the Wheel. This tiny cellar bar
also offers some unusual DM memorabilia and a red and
white colour scheme in keeping with the Violator album.
QH-1, Maz Pils 5, tel. (+371) 29 14 67 54. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. JAW
EZTIS MIGL
Named after a famous Soviet-era cartoon and childrens
story, The Hedgehog in the Fog is tucked away at the far,
quiet end of a popular pub street, which is probably why it
seems to cater to locals instead of tourists. Inside youll find
the oft-repeated home-away-from-home theme where
the interior is meant to put you in mind of your living
room, with the exception of the strangers drinking on the
couch. Beer lovers should give it a pass, but if youre into
ping-pong then order a cocktail and hit the back room.
QI-1, Palasta 9 (entrance from Jauniela), tel. (+371) 25
93 55 56, www.ezitis.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Also at H-2,
Aldaru 12/14.
Nightlife
GAUJA
Step into a Latvian apartment circa 1970. Elvis records
crackle on the Hi-Fi while a bohemian bartender grabs
liquor bottles from what appears to be someones grandmothers china cabinet. The furniture is also retro as are
the Soviet style beer mugs and the antique magazines and
books. Try a milky Brenguu or Trvetes brew out on the
sidewalk or grab a stool and knock back a cheap vodka
shot. In keeping with the communal living theme, space is
limited.QB-5, Trbatas 56, tel. (+371) 67 27 56 62, www.
bufetegauja.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
GET SMART CAF
Were it not for the turquoise walls, the movie posters on
the bar and the crowd of young hipster types lounging
about, one might think that theyve dropped by their
grannys place for a cup of tea. Retro furniture, vintage
TVs and radios and fresh flowers give this place and air of
decades past. You can get a draught Bauskas brew, cheap
cocktails and even some pastas, salads and the renowned
smartburger or drop by for the occasional wine tasting on
Thursday evenings.QC-5, Lpla 43/45, tel. (+371) 67
66 31 61. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 18:00 03:00. Closed Sun. JW
Dozens more bars at

HHC (HARDCORE HANGOVER CLUB)

The name says it all. HHC is definitely a good place to nurse
a hangover in relative anonymity. Choose from three different varieties of Lplsis beer from dark to light for
cheap prices or the more expensive Brenguu microbrew
also on draught. You can also order cocktails, play board
games, have a smoke in the back room or just hang out
with hard-drinking, tattooed goths and bohemians.QI2, Peldu 21, tel. (+371) 67 22 47 99, www.hhc.lv. Open
17:00 - 06:00. A
I LOVE YOU
Yes, it has a silly name, but I love you also happens to be
one of the coolest little bars in Old Riga. Dark wooden
chairs, plush couches, exposed brick walls and hardwood floors create a cosy atmosphere for tasty cocktails
or beers. Housed in a building on the enticingly named
Beer Brewers Street, this bar is popular with local bohemians who appreciate good music. If youre not convinced, just drop by and check out one of the house DJs
or just take a gander at all of the posters and set lists of
bands that have played Riga. Have a drink at the small
bar, in back on one of the comfy couches in the hidden
atrium or downstairs by the toilets. A selection of pizzas
and finger food is available and if things are a little slow
you can play one of its many board games.QH-2, Aldaru
9, tel. (+371) 67 22 53 04, www.iloveyou.lv. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. AW
57
Nightlife
JAUTR LAPSA
If youre in the mood for some affordable food and drink
and a laid back atmosphere in Old Riga then the Funny
Fox might just be a good option for you. A huge blackboard which lists all of the available drinks from coffee to
big cocktails runs the length of the long bar and you can
sit at a number of tables or chat with a bartender from the
comfort of a stool. Order anything from local and foreign
brews to chicken wings and fish and chips or try its lunch
specials. Its also a good place to watch sports on a number of flat screen TVs.QI-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 28
48 24 26, funnyfoxbar.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. A
KIWI BAR
Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish
pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the
Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar
while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch
sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers, breakfasts and meat pies
to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja.QI-2, Skru 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17,
www.kiwibar.lv. Open 09:00 - 05:00. JAW
KKC (KAEPES KULTRAS CENTRS)
Although kaepes is actually weed or hemp in Latvian,
dont get your hopes up. This funky, self-proclaimed culture centre run by a guy whose last name happens to be
Kaepe is actually a local hotspot for hipsters who appreciate having drinks, listening to music and doing other
arty things in a dilapidated wooden building. Its summer
courtyard is by far its greatest asset and its usually full of
people knocking back beers on old furniture. You can also
come here for concerts and art exhibitions, so check its
Facebook page for upcoming events.QB-4, Skolas 15,
tel. (+371) 29 40 44 05. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 05:00. EW
KROGS APTIEKA (PHARMACY BAR)
After presiding over a staple of the Washington DC nightlife scene for several years, American-Latvian Kristaps
Krsli opened yet another Pharmacy Bar, but this time
in the Latvian capital. Medieval brick walls, medicinal tinctures and scales, tables embedded with capsules and pills
and painted silhouettes of old-fashioned bottles on two
floors are a clever combination of old and new and the
perfect backdrop for a night of cocktails and beers. That
said, this hip hangout isnt just about imbibing. Two of the
citys coolest celebrity chefs have also added a small menu
of burgers, grill cheese sandwiches and chicken wings to
the pharmacys inventory, so you can grab a great meal
here every day until 22:00. The bar also provides a smoking courtyard, summer terrace and a free CD jukebox that
offers anything from Johnny Cash and the Rolling Stones
to the Sex Pistols and Metallica.QH-1, Maz Miesnieku 1,
www.krogsaptieka.lv. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. AEX
LENINGRAD
Workers of the world, get loaded! An Old Riga favourite
has moved to a larger space in the city centre, but have
no fear. Leningrad has brought all of its Soviet era paintings, books, vintage wallpaper, antique radios and a bust
or two of the infamous bearded commie with the bald
head. The bar, which is stocked with bottles of Scottish
beers by Brew Dog, Latvian cider and plenty of hard liquor, can be found to the left, while the new concert hall,
which was still under construction when we dropped by,
will be available to the right. When live bands arent playing in the evening you can expect a steady diet of eccentric as well as classic alternative rock. A proper menu
is also in the works.QI-3, Valdemra 4, tel. (+371) 29 91
50 49, www.leningrad.lv. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 07:00. AEW
LIMONDE
Although we couldnt seem to find enough of our inner
teenager to appreciate the pop music emanating from
the speakers, we were bowled over, nearly literally, by the
wide array of shockingly cheap cocktails on offer, particularly the burcia, which is a Long Island ice tea served in a
litre mason jar for only 9! Limonde, which means soda or
pop in Latvian, is decorated with Soviet furniture and too
many different types of wallpaper to mention. Incredible
shot specials are also available as well as 2 for 1 cocktails
from 20:00 - 22:00.QI-2, Peldu 26, tel. (+371) 25 96 79 50,
www.barslimonade.lv. Open , Tue 17:00 - 01:00, Wed
17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Fri 17:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. A
OMAS BRILJANTS
The interior is chic and retro with lots of private niches, old
couches, multi-coloured lamps and even a ceramic chandelier above the bar that looks like it was stolen from your
grannys living room. The beats emanating from the wallpapered DJ stand are as funky and bohemian as the staff
and clientele and you can get a wide variety of cocktails as
well as Czech and Latvian brews on draught. Large windows on two sides of this corner building afford patrons
great views of passers-by outside, but if you cant get a
seat down here then head upstairs for yet another bar, a
small dance floor and plenty more places to take a load off.
QI-2, Audju 7. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. JAE
NIGHTLIFE WARNING
Riga In Your Pocket has received readers complaints
and, in some cases, horror stories about the following
places:
Ampir Kau iela (Lvu Square); Barfly Kalju 14/16;
Brilliant Club Blaumaa 9; Kruovice sporta brs
Kau iela (Lvu Square); Shot Bar Grcinieku 1 (entrance from Skru); Vna Sta - Maz Smilu 7.
Nightlife
PIECI VILKI (FIVE WOLVES)
Owned by a prominent member of a local motorcycle
club, Five Wolves is sometimes frequented by local neighbourhood types sipping beers and at other times by hardlooking, hard-drinking leather-clad men with beards. The
menu offers a bit of everything including fried eggs and
bacon served on red-hot cast iron pans, chicken wings
in extra large sizes and steak served just right. Shot takers shouldnt pass up the vodka bottle served in a block
of ice.QB-4, Stabu 6, tel. (+371) 29 24 22 26. Open 11:30
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A
SHOT CAF
This popular cellar bar in the Jacobs Barracks offers a full
menu of international food and drink during the day, but
its at night that Shot Caf shows its true colours. Packed
with a young crowd of arty snowboard types dancing to
a variety of alternative and house music, its a great place
to go for a long night of short drinks for reasonable prices.
Try the bolu prgs or apple pie (a shot of vodka and apple juice topped with cinnamon), a local favourite.QH-2,
Tora 4-IIIB (Jkaba kazarmas), tel. (+371) 67 22 41 65,
www.shotcafe.lv. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. A
SPOT KAF
This tiny shot caf and cocktail lounge offers an interior
of stylish couches, hardwood floors, an exposed brick wall
and even disco balls. Order expertly poured mixed drinks
for affordable prices not to mention incredibly cheap shots
around the 2 mark with hilarious, often profane names
that will get you giggling before the alcohol even touches
your tonsils. If things get too crowded inside you can also
take your drinks outside on the lovely terrace that offers
views of Riga Cathedrals ancient gravestones across the
street. Although not a sports bar by any twist of the imagination, Spot Kaf often shows big games on a flat screen.
QH-1, Jauniela 19, tel. (+371) 26 15 17 87, spotkafe.lv.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. AW
TAKA
Popular with Bohemians of all stripes, this cosy bar is surprisingly dark given that its walls are painted every colour
of the rainbow and are covered in artwork including a giant golden bulls head made of insulation foam. The music
leans toward the alternative and the downright obscure,
the draught Valmiermuia is cheap and its homemade apple wine is also worth a try. Sit on a worn couch with your
laptop and use its free wi-fi, order some food or just take
in the funky atmosphere.QB-5, Miera 10, tel. (+371) 25 62
56 77, pataku.wordpress.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. W
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VEST
Judging by the number of young bearded men in attendance here on a weeknight, one wouldnt be wrong
for thinking that Vest is one Rigas latest hipster bars.
Everything in this brick house is painted grey from the
walls and ceiling to the concrete floor, but at least the
furniture is made of solid wood and vintage motorcycles add a splash of colour here and there. Use the wifi while drinking an expensive Latvian microbrew, take
advantage of the foosball table or grab a seat outside on
the summer terrace. Cocktails and gourmet coffee can
also be had as well as a small daily menu consisting of a
couple of soups, salads and main courses.QB-4, Stabu
1, tel. (+371) 26 48 40 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. AW
BREW PUBS
LABIETIS
Although difficult to find as its hidden in a small courtyard
behind the popular club Piens, once you reach Labietis
youre faced with the difficult task of tasting 12 delicious
craft brews made on the premises from American-style
IPAs and English bitters to special beers made with Latvian herbs. The brewery is clearly visible behind a glass
partition and you can enjoy a tasty beer at the bar, by the
windows or at an incredibly large wooden table in the
middle of the room. If youd like to hang around for a while
you can order food from the nearby Fontaine Delisnack or
just have them fill a plastic bottle or two for you to take
home.QA-5, Aristda Brina 9A-2, tel. (+371) 25 65 59 58,
www.labietis.lv. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00,
Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Thu 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00,
Sun 13:00 - 01:00. AS
CASINOS & GAMING HALLS

Latvian law compels all gamblers to register at each casino
they visit, so bring a passport or valid ID.
KLONDAIKA
These fun Tex-Mex bars have plenty of food, drink and
slot machines and all but the one on Dzirnavu have pool
tables.QD-4, Merea 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 16 40, www.
klondaika.com. Open 09:00 - 07:00. Also at C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66; C-5, Matsa 43, tel. (+371)
67 27 50 29; I-2, Grcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 68 07.
Open 09:00 - 07:00; Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 63
80. Open 09:00 - 05:00. POAW
OLYMPIC VOODOO CASINO
Located on the ground floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel
Latvija, its supposedly the biggest casino in the Baltics. A
bar and a 24-hour sushi bar are also available. Its other locations specialise in slot machines, but also have 24-hour
bars.QC-4, Brvbas 31 (entrance from Dzirnavu), tel.
(+371) 67 82 87 77, www.olympic-casino.com. Also at
C-4, Barona 3, tel. (+371) 26 52 23 20; C-4, Marijas 12, tel.
(+371) 26 32 89 49. Open 24hrs. AK
Nightlife
CLUBS
COYOTE FLY
Housed in the exclusive Vernisa complex in the
Vrmanes Park, you pretty much have to be wellheeled, well-dressed and local to gain entrance to this
pleasure palace for Rigas elite, which essentially consists of celebrities, TV personalities and the ber-rich.
Foreign DJs are often imported from around Europe
and its stage is also graced by local musicians, rappers and the like. You can expect a trendy atmosphere,
expensive cocktails and Champagne and, of course,
incredibly beautiful wait staff, but as a tourist in the
Latvian capital, you might not pass its strict face control.QC-4, Trbatas 2, tel. (+371) 29 43 06 93, www.
coyotefly.lv. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AW
DEPO (DEPOT)
Underground music lovers, hip youth and over the hill
travel writers, this is the stop where you get off. Indie
groups and DJs from abroad, garage bands and an alternative crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the
few to sponsor rock, hardcore, heavy metal, punk, reggae
and experimental music genres. Watch the bands perform
in the basement or just have a beer on the ground floor.
QI-2, Vau 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo.
lv. Open 17:00 - 05:00. Admission: concerts 5 - 7.
AEX
LA ROCCA REVOLUTION
An admission fee buys you a pass to a variety of different clubs within the confines of a converted theatre
that still bears the tell-tale signs of its original incarnation such as gilded decorations and ceilings as well as
red velvet walls. However, the theatre-goers of yore
would doubtless be shocked by the flashing lasers,
smoke machines and go-go dancers with glitter-paint
shining from their naked thighs. Drinks are reasonably
priced and if youre not into techno or Russian pop
you can try one of the other mini-clubs inside.QB-5,
Brvbas 96, tel. (+371) 67 50 60 30, www.larocca.lv.
Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. Admission: 5 - 7. AX
MAI TAI
Although we spied lots of men in black keeping a sharp
eye on everyone at this club/cocktail bar, most of the
wealthy patrons ordering fruity 8 drinks from busty Latvian bartenders seemed oblivious to the heavy security
presence here. The elephant god Ganesha also gazes at
the long rectangular bar from the wall and ensures that
everyone in this trendy black space has a good time. A
cellar lounge area is also available as well as a VIP area for
the truly blessed and popular DJs keep local celebs satisfied with dance music until sunrise.QH-3, Raia bulvris
15, tel. (+371) 26 95 55 55, www.mai-tai.lv. Open 22:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: for
events. A
61
Nightlife
NABAKLAB
This hip music club located in a half basement is Rigas
best alternative hotspot. You can watch a live band in one
hall, dance to DJs in another, relax with a beer at the long
bar or join the crowds outside the door for a smoke and a
chat. Definitely not the place for pop music fans, this is a
bohemian student favourite. Live acts are a mixed bag so
one night you might see a local punk rock group and the
next night a Polish ska band or an electronic music evening. Did we mention that its own Nabaklab brew costs
less than 2? Lots of special drinks offers are also available.QH-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, www.nabaklab.lv.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00,
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission: concerts 1.50
- 5. AEX
PIENS (MILK)
Located in a renovated 19th-century brewery on the
edge of the city centre, this self-proclaimed sofa bar is
hard to find and thats the way the owners like it. Those in
the know know that this is one of Rigas hottest cocktail
bars and many dont mind queuing up at the weekend
to sit on one of many couches that are each completely
different in style from your grandmas sofa to one youd
expect to see in your doctors waiting room. With two
large terraces and a funky, eclectic interior, colourful, hip
and laid-back Milk is hard to beat. That said, if its busy at
the weekend only Latvians are usually allowed entrance.
QA-5, Aristida Brina 9, tel. (+371) 66 01 63 00, www.
piens.nu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00.
PULKVEDIM NEVIENS NERAKSTA (NOBODY
WRITES TO THE COLONEL)
In the mid-1990s, the Colonel was the only bastion of alternative music for a hip crowd of youngsters desperate to
avoid pop and techno music. Then a change of owners led
to a dark era when even Michael Jackson and Madonna
were heard in these once hallowed bohemian halls. Today
the dimly-lit, industrial-style interior is still popular, but
naturally much depends on the DJs and some nights are
better than others. QI-2, Peldu 26/28, tel. (+371) 67 21
38 86, www.pulkvedis.lv. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. AE
CIGAR LOUNGES
LA CASA DEL HABANO
This classy cigar lounge and shop offers a walk-in humidor full of Cuban Havanas, a relaxed, yet refined
interior that includes leather furniture and plenty of
single malt scotch, cognac and champagne. Members can also store their tobacco purchases in their
own lockers in the humidor.QB-4, Jeruzalemes 10
(entrance from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 67 33 87 87,
www.havanas.lv. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. AX
COCKTAILS
B-BRS
Rigas second Balsam bar is a hit with the in crowd and
with good reason. The stylish brown interior of leather
couches and chairs spread out over three rooms is warm
and inviting, the expensive cocktails, including the ones
made with Latvias national drink, are among the best the
city has to offer and were it not for the chefs apparent affection for dill, the pricey international cuisine would also
get top marks. That said, 5 still seems like a lot of money
for a local beer.QI-1, Doma laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 22
88 42, www.bbars.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. A
COCO LOCO
Nearly every wooden surface is stained in the Rastafarian colours of red, yellow and green in this Jamaican bar
tucked away behind St.Peters church. Although it serves
a small selection of tasty dishes with Caribbean names,
theyre not exactly authentic, but are usually at least
marinated in traditional jerk spices. That in no way means
that we dont like the place. Its primarily a fun cocktail
bar and club offering Lplsis on draught and plenty of
tasty rum drinks for 4 - 7. Save yourself some cash and
visit Coco Loco during happy hour from 19:00 - 21:00.
QI-2, Pterbazncas 17, tel. (+371) 67 22 43 00. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
JAW
CUBA CAF
The global fascination with Fidel and Guevera is still
alive and well in Riga in this dimly-lit caf whose walls
are adorned with black and white photos of the tropical
nation and its immortal leader. Although a few assorted
starters are on offer, Cuba Caf is essentially a cocktail bar
serving pricey island drinks in an intimate setting.QH-1,
Jauniela 15, tel. (+371) 67 22 43 62, www.cubacafe.lv.
Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. AX
JUST
At night, and especially at the weekend, this stylish brown
and beige space with a central rectangular bar caters to
the cocktail crowd, but during the day its more of a restaurant serving upmarket cuisine from surf and turf and
duck breast to trout fillet for prices around the 15 mark.
On Fridays and Saturdays Just also hosts local DJs who entertain well-dressed 20- and 30-somethings that look like
theyve stepped out of the pages of Maxim or Cosmo. If
you dont mind paying 7 for a mixed drink then put your
finery on and join the action inside or take advantage of
its huge terrace in the summer that sports hammocks and
views of the river. Unfortunately, the bouncers have been
accused of being racist by some of our readers, so if youre
not a local you might not get in.QI-1, 11.novembra krastmala 17, tel. (+371) 29 55 46 14, www.justbar.lv. Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Nightlife
PINUP BAR
This dark grey cocktail bar is the latest place to take up residency on picturesque Pils Square. Its hip staff take a while
to mix up a drink, but the finished product is worth the
wait and, given its impressive alcohol content, will probably
have you posing for your own pin-up photo in no time. Sit
at one of the tables and order from the small international
menu or relax on a couch with a classic negroni or an old
fashioned smothered in maple foam. The industrial-style
interior of functional pipes and light fixtures extends to the
bar, which would look like a cage were it not for the hanging metal buckets of fresh herbs.QH-1, Pils 7, tel. (+371) 27
51 39 42, www.pinupbar.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAW
SKYLINE BAR
If youre looking to elevate your mood simply take the glass
lift to the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija and
have a drink at the Skyline Bar. Not only does it offer a trendy
interior full of stylish couches and cosy niches, but also the
most incredible views of Riga youll ever see. Order one
of dozens of classic cocktails, listen to a live DJ and take in
the biggest city in the Baltics on the other side of the floorto-ceiling windows. Even though it can be difficult to get
a coveted table with a view of Old Riga, the view of other
patrons is often even better. Take advantage of happy hour
Mon - Thu 17:00 - 19:00.QF-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu
Hotel Latvija - 26th floor), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 82, www.
skylinebar.lv. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00,
Sun 15:00 - 02:00. Admission: Fri - Sun 3. AEXW
TEQUILA BOOM
This little place gets packed on the weekends with loud
and happy youngsters. Although weve had enough experience with the Mexican national hooch to stay away
from it, you might be youthful enough to throw caution
to the wind. Shots of tequila are brought out on a metal
plate with a nifty bicycle bell attached to let the bartender
know when your drinks are running low. Also serves TexMex-style food.QH-1, Maz Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 70
06, www.tequilaboom.lv. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. AX
NEW
THE LEFT DOOR BAR
If the number of cocktail bars a city has is an accurate
barometer of the local economy, then Riga must be doing fairly well as yet another establishment specialising in
mixed drinks has opened its doors (or at least the left one)
on posh Antonijas iela. You can expect top shelf liquor and
homemade syrups in your drinks here, which will cost you
roughly 8. We enjoyed the old fashioned with baconinfused bourbon served in a tiki mug, but you might try a
blackberry toddy on a cold day or a ginger Collins to cool
down. Sip your cocktail in one of the candlelit window
niches or take a seat on one of the couches in the lounge
hidden behind the bar. A small menu of starters and mains
is also available.QB-4, Antonijas 12, tel. (+371) 67 80 64
09. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Sun. AW
63
Nightlife
A GUIDE FOR BEER SNOBS
When in a foreign land we always try to wet our whistle with a local brew, but since were card carrying beer
snobs this isnt always an easy task. After all, we dont
want to waste our time on mass-produced pilsners and
loutish lagers. If youre of a similar mind then here are
a few tips on where to get a good Latvian brew that
wont make you hurl (at least not after just one).
If youre in the old town then head over to Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs, which may be hard to pronounce,
but serves roughly 20 Latvian beers including delicious
offerings by the Malduguns brewery like Snslde a
kind of dark IPA. On the other end of town youll find
the Aussie Backpackers Pub, which has a special 14beer sampler that will give you a crash course in Latvian
beer. Try the Kaepju alus (cannabis beer) by Iuciems.
It also has great brews by Coopers as well as some lesser offerings from Down Under like VB. Outside of the
old town, at the hipster caf Trusis youll find some of
Latvias best microbrews on draught and in bottles, not
to mention some great craft beers from the Dundulis
brewery in Lithuania.
However, the main destination for all beer snobs in
Riga has to be the Valdemra Pasa, which is home
to both the Labietis craft brewery and the so-called
embassy of the Valmiermuia brewery. Labietis is
constantly experimenting with new recipes that use
unusual ingredients such as local herbs and spices.
Although we usually order the Three Indians IPA, other
brews like the Tapeworm Killer and the Beekeepers Widow have also piqued our curiosity. The Valmiermuia
brewery in northern Latvia has been producing quality beer for years now and can hardly be called a craft
brewer these days, but they do pour their latest creations at this embassy. It also magnanimously sells beer
by smaller boutique brewers like Malduguns here. Try
whatevevers on draught or the Za bise (Green Shotgun) made with American Cascade hops.
XIII
If people can afford to pay between 10 - 13 for cocktails,
then maybe the financial crisis truly has ended in Riga. This
exclusive little lounge serves signature cocktails by experienced bow-tied staff and if youre lucky you might even
spot the owner, international footballer Kaspars Gorks
who appears to have named the bar after his number 13
national team jersey. We tried the Lavender Collins with
gin, lavender syrup and early grey soda and were not disappointed. A small menu of refined food is also available,
but olives and gourmet crisps are complimentary. Despite
the posh atmosphere the staff were surprisingly friendly.
QB-3, Strlnieku 1a, tel. (+371) 26 76 13 13, bar13.lv.
Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.
YOLO
This dark grey caf and cocktail bar is tucked away behind
Rigas town hall, only a block away from the Blackheads
House. A small menu of average soups, salads, pastas and
mains are on offer, but YOLO, or you only live once, has a
much more impressive and dare we say affordable drinks
list, which makes it a popular watering hole on weekend
nights. Listen to a DJ while swinging in a hammock chair
by the windows, mingle with the affluent crowd of Latvians on the dance floor or drop by this one-room hangout
for coffee and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.QI-1,
Palasta 10, www.yolobar.lv. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu
09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. JAEW
GAY RIGA
GOLDEN
Golden doesnt promote itself much as a gay club from the
outside, but the flamboyant bartenders do a pretty good
job of convincing you just in case you didnt get the hint
coming in. After navigating corridors and staircases for
a time, youll find a stylish interior, as one might expect,
where patrons can sit at the bar in the atrium or relax in
the smokers lounge. Thankfully, it doesnt have that sleazy
vibe that some gay clubs tend to exude.QC-5, ertrdes
33/35, tel. (+371) 25 50 50 50, www.mygoldenclub.com.
Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. A
LIVE MUSIC
ETRI BALTI KREKLI
Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their
way to this club when they want to hear nothing but
familiar rock and quality live performances. Bring a wellversed native to point out famous writers and artists,
who often find inspiration under the brick ceiling. White
shirts arent required, but no matter how much you smile
at the bouncer, you wont get in wearing trainers.QI-3,
Vecpilstas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21 38 85, www.krekli.lv.
Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission:
2 - 5. AEX
Nightlife
e rst and only traditional
Latvian folk bar in Latvia
16 local beers on tap

Live music & local cuisine
www.folkklubs.lv / +371 20237715
Peldu street 19 , Old Town

FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Rigas largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend
into the depths of this huge space to find a great selection of affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional cuisine and an ever-changing line-up of folk bands
guaranteed to get you moving. Although its a favourite
among frugal students, its also popular with anyone who
appreciates good food, drink and music under medieval
brick vaulted ceilings.QI-2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69
14, www.folkklubs.lv. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Wed 12:00 03:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00
- 01:00. AE
MELN PIEKTDIENA (BLACK FRIDAY)
The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music is
located within the brick walls of an old factory next to the
VEF Bridge. Live acts have included such heavyweights
as Napalm Death, but bear in mind that its only open for
events, so check out its website for upcoming concerts.
Take tram N6 from Barona to the VEF stop.QBrvbas
193c, tel. (+371) 29 87 94 75, www.melnapiektdiena.
lv. E
NIGHTLIFE TOURS
RIGA OUT THERE
On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights English-speaking
guides will take you and your friends to Rigas best bars
and clubs. The 28 tours include at least five destinations and a free drink or free admission depending on the
venue. Groups of 6 - 20 people are welcome on the tour
that is meant for people who want to experience the real
Riga, not the drunken wanderings of a stag party. They
also offer sightseeing tours as well as shooting, paintball
and bobsleigh excursions.Qtel. (+371) 29 38 94 50, www.
rigaoutthere.com.
Whats going on?

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rigainyourpocket
TRAVEL 2 RIGA
This experienced company has been arranging special
events, tours and excursions for Rigas guests since 2005.
Travel2Riga offers low-key or VIP nightlife tours as well as
activities like AK47 shooting, go-karting, sailing, paintball,
zorb football, bungee jumping and even bobsleighing just
to name a few.QI-2, Tirgou 10, tel. (+371) 29 22 83 10,
www.travel2riga.com. A
MIDNIGHT MUNCHIES
FONTAINE DELISNACK RIGA
This cheap slow fast food joint serves up tasty burgers, burritos and pizzas, all cooked to order, plenty
of space and friendly service. Order huge burgers
served in wax paper with a side of fries and a local Trvetes brew in a laid-back Bohemian atmosphere in Old Riga.QI-2, Tetra 2, tel. (+371) 67 25
02 50, www.fontaineriga.lv. Open 24hrs. Also at
A-5, A. Brina 9a, tel. (+371) 28 44 14 11. (3 - 5).
AVSW
LAUVAS NAMS
Located in the Lion House (there are lions all over the
facade), this restaurant offers big, cheap meals in a
funky, neon-illuminated interior. Choose from a large
buffet which includes the ever-present shashlik as
well as other meat cooked over a charcoal grill.QB-5,
Brvbas 82, tel. (+371) 67 31 26 61. Open 24hrs. (4
- 7). AS
PIZZA LUL
Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie can
be had here in a small, cosy restaurant that looks a bit
like an old-fashioned American malt shop. Ideal for
pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or
satisfy your post-pub cravings at any hour of the night.
It also offers a 24-hour delivery service and sells beer
and wine in the wee hours of the morning in case you
want another drink before bed.QC-4, Blaumaa 5a,
tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Open 24hrs.
Also at I-2, Grcinieku 7, tel. (+371) 67 86 04 04.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. AVS
65
Nightlife
PUBS
AUSSIE BACKPACKERS PUB
Rigas first Aussie pub provides plenty of authentic down
under atmosphere but thankfully without any of the usual
trappings of stuffed koalas or, God forbid, any portraits of
Paul Hogan. Spread out across three floors, the pub offers
plenty of tasty and cheap local beers on draught as well as
Australias best craft brew, Coopers, in bottles and all are
served from a bar thats actually an old VW combi van. If
youre feeling really nostalgic you can even order a VB. Fun
raffles and lotteries are held often and you can also participate in beer pong and sumo nights. If the cheap happy
hour prices (17:00 - 19:00 every day!) are too much for you
to handle you can always crash at its hostel upstairs. QI-3,
Vau 43, tel. (+371) 67 22 34 06, www.aussiepubriga.
com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. AEW
BNZIS
This isnt the place to go with your girlfriend. She wouldnt
be impressed by the plain grey interior, the shabby furniture, the men who hang out here or its location behind
the Soviet Academy of Sciences building. But if you like
incredibly cheap British ales, bitters and IPAs in bottles,
tasty local brews like Rzeknes Brveris for cheap and lots
of rock music, it might be worth the five-minute walk from
the Central Market. QD-4, Gogoa 15, tel. (+371) 28 34
87 16, banuzis.wordpress.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. RC
BON VIVANT
Solid wood furniture, a cosy atmosphere and assorted Benelux decorations arent the only things that make this place an
authentic Belgian beer bar. Expensive, yet tasty brews from
the Low Countries are served in their proper glasses but Europeans have come to expect that anything from Brussels will
cost them dearly.QI-2, Mrstau 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 65 85,
www.bon-vivant.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00. AX
BRLIS
Named after the amazingly cheap micro-brew thats
served here, its leopard pattern booths and fake brick bar
wont win any awards, nor will its standard menu, but its
simplicity and lack of pretension are also it strengths. QB5, Trbatas 101, tel. (+371) 27 88 22 22, www.bralis.lv.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
DONEGANS PUB
This shamrock covered pub seems to have sprung up out of
thin air, but were not complaining, especially since its just
around the corner from RIYP headquarters. Watch sports,
listen to live music, knock back a pint of Guinness, or a dozen or so other local and imported beers, or just order some
classic pub food like Buffalo wings, burgers, fish n chips
and, of course, a big breakfast. You can also take a seat at
one of its comfy booths and try the samogon - grain alcohol
from eastern Latvia, guaranteed to make you see Leprechauns.QH-2, Laipu 2/4, www.donegans.lv. Open 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AEW
Nightlife
KLONDAIKA
The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many
westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in
one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer,
head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled
the gold mine (zelta raktuves) or go down to the bar for
beer and cocktails under cattle skulls and wagon wheels.
Food is served from 12:00 - 24:00.QC-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel.
(+371) 67 24 03 66, www.klondaika.com. Open 09:00 07:00. AXW
WARNING!
KRUOVICE SPORTA BRS
The citys most infamous rip-off joint has yet again changed
its name, this time to Kruovice Sporta brs. Do not be lured
in by its beer selection, flat screen TVs showing sports or
young girls in its employ who inexplicably find you attractive. To quote Dante: Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.
Avoid this place like the plague.QH-2, Kau 22.
LIDOJO VARDE (THE FLYING FROG)
A long-time staple in the city, this three-roomed cellar
hangout is filled with more than just frogs though
there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Build your
own burger, chow on unparalleled chicken wings, or go
healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Embassy workers
and other expats in the area come in droves for lunch, dinner and cocktails or pints of Guinness with their colleagues
after quitting time.QB-3, Elizabetes 31a, tel. (+371) 67 32
11 84, www.flying-frog.lv. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. AEX
MOLONEYS PUB
Moloneys Pub always seems to be full of locals and tourists knocking back beers and watching English football on
big flat screen TVs. You can expect plenty of space, hardwood floors, Irish decorations and lots of foreign and domestic brews on draught from Guinness and Kilkenny to
Leffe and local Madonas as well as a full menu of pub food
from tasty burgers to a big Irish breakfast. A digital jukebox
hangs from a wall should you crave your favourite tunes
in between matches and you can smoke in Moloneys
private courtyard. Live music, a happy hour and loads of
cheap drink specials are also available.QH-2, Vgnera 3,
tel. (+371) 67 22 87 06, www.moloneyspub.com. Open
12:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AEX
Although its considered a traditional Irish pub its also a
sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely
football and formula one. On the ground floor you can
expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different
matches, while upstairs youll find a cosier atmosphere
with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait
of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddys also offers a menu of authentic
Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor.QI-2, Grcinieku
4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Open 11:30 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. AEXS
QUEENS PUBLIC HOUSE

This so-called public house has all of the trappings of an
English pub, or at least what locals think one might look
like, with wooden furniture and old-fashioned wallpaper,
not to mention a fake fireplace and a few TVs showing
sports. It offers loads of breakfast food from oatmeal and
shrimp omelettes to the Queens special, which is a poor
attempt at a classic fry-up. An extensive menu of expensive steaks is also available, but fish and chips and local
sausage dishes are quite reasonable. Plenty of tasty, if a
bit pricey, foreign and domestic beers are poured at the
central bar and female patrons will no doubt be interested
to know that friends can sit next to one another in the Ladies without the intrusion of a partition.QI-2, Kau 2, tel.
(+371) 67 80 00 01, www.queens.lv. Open 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. A
RESTORCIJA
This popular bar/restaurant owned by a member of a local
MC has expanded to include yet another room decorated
with dark wood furnishings, murals of jazz musicians, hip
industrial-style lamps and large windows offering great
views of busy Trbatas iela outside. Valmiermuias and
Trvetes brews are reason enough to drop by, but tasty
local food including wild game dishes and picnic tables
on the pavement in summer also attract a steady clientele
of locals, bikers and even tourists.QB/C-5, Trbatas 54,
tel. (+371) 26 44 42 78, www.restoracija.lv. Open 17:00
- 24:00. A
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
JOCKEY CLUB
The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club has provided
adult entertainment for Rigas citizens and visitors
since the mid-1990s. Naked ladies practice their trade
every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women dance
around a pole for your amusement between shows.
A fulll stocked bar is of course available, but private
dances from incredibly beautiful women seem to be
the major draw. An expat favourite.QF-3, Elizabetes
49, tel. (+371) 67 22 88 44, www.jockeyclub.lv. Open
20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 14. A
LABI
For nearly 20 years this chain of sex shops has offered
private video booths, live strip shows and a huge selection of films, sex toys and other gear to spice up
ones love life. Unlike many clubs that are out to rip
you off in Riga, Labi provides professional staff and
decent prices should you be one of this planets many
financially challenged lonely males. Splurge on some
live interactive erotic entertainment for around 50 or
spend much less on a peep show.QC-5, Lpla 47,
tel. (+371) 67 28 61 15, www.labi.tev.lv. Open 24hrs.
Also at C-4, A. Kalnia 8. Open 24hrs; B-5, Brvbas
98; Lpla 61. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AD
67
Nightlife
RUNCIS (TOMCAT)
The kind of place where you wish everybody knew your
name. Its totally Latvian in its beer, food, and frequenters,
who are usually playing chess, playing cards and exchanging anecdotes. If the thought of seeing another tourist
makes you queasy, head here to hide and enjoy some of
Old Rigas cheapest beer. In short, its a place that most
women find boring and most men intriguing.QI-2, Ja
sta 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 41 98. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A
S. BREVINGA ALUS UN VISKIJA BRS
If youre a connoisseur of the finer things in life, namely good
beer and whisky, than a trip to this bar is compulsory when
in Riga. Over 20 craft brews flow from the taps and dozens
more can be ordered in bottles while 70 different single malts
tempt patrons from their overstocked shelves behind the
bar. You can also order international fare from its small menu,
watch some sports on the TV or admire large reproductions
of Impressionist paintings hanging on the walls. A large
summer terrace next to Doma laukums is also a big bonus
and if youd like to buy a drink or two for later, a shop selling the same beers and whiskies is available to the left.QH-2,
Tirgou 4, tel. (+371) 28 34 87 16, www.brevings.lv. Open
12:00 - 24:00. Shop open 12:00 - 22:00. A
VICTORY PUB
As our faces registered the sight of dark red walls and matching curtains the friendly waitress confided in us that she also
thought the interior was reminiscent of a tarts boudoir,
but she assured us that the food and drink were just fine.
A menu of standard cuisine including steaks and a cheap
lunch special are available as well as a digital jukebox and a
smoking room with a pool table and dart board. A dozen or
so different beers can be had here for affordable prices and
it also has a large summer terrace, which is perfect for Old
Riga people-watching.QI-2, Tirgou 10, tel. (+371) 29 22
83 10, www.victorypub.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Sun
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. AXW
SPORTS BARS
Although its considered a traditional Irish pub its also a
sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely
football and formula one. On the ground floor you can
expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different
matches, while upstairs youll find a cosier atmosphere
with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait
of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddys also offers a menu of authentic
Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor.QI-2, Grcinieku
4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Open 11:30 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. AEXS
Plenty more boozers at

STUDENT BARS
LA BELLE POQUE (FRANU BRS)
An unusual mix of teenage boys and girls and curious foreigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of
the incredibly cheap beer on draught. Although it often
looks like a mix between a high school dance and an allnight rave with scant lighting and lots of bodily contact,
the barmen/chaperones encourage mingling with shots
of Absinthe and other hard alcohol.QI-2, Maz Jaunavu
8 (entrance from Maz Montu), tel. (+371) 67 22 03 53,
thefrenchbar.lv. Open 17:00 - 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00
- 07:00. A
ZAPTE (JAM)
Tucked away on a small, winding Old Riga street, Zapte is
a place for people who like to drink cheaply and who like
to drink a lot. In fact, its promotional poster states that size
does matter and that patrons should choose the proper
volume of their drinks and not be wimps. You and your
friends can show off your imbibing prowess by ordering
the 3 litre cocktail, but most people seem to drink cheap
beer and shots like the Occupation Museum (Riga Balzams,
Jgermeister and vodka). The simple interior doesnt offer
much decoration apart from some photos, paintings and
a bicycle on the wall, but most people dont come here
for the dcor.QI-2, Maz Montu 5, tel. (+371) 27 49 77
95, www.krogszapte.lv. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu
17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. AW
WINE BARS
DVINE
Banish all images of typical wine bars where scruffy men
sit and smoke at wooden tables stained with the ghosts of
drinks past. Sleek, modern Dvine is located on the second
floor of the cutting-edge glass and metal arrow jutting out
of the Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija. Snack on Spanish tapas,
try its gourmet burger or splurge on oysters followed by
surf n turf. If youre not hungry you can just sip wine by
the glass, half-bottle or bottle, but if youre famished then
drop by for its all-you-can-eat tapas evenings on Friday
nights.QF-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija),
tel. (+371) 67 77 22 17, www.dvinebar.lv. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
AW
TINTO
Although this stylish wine bar and caf with merlot coloured couches and a large outdoor terrace offers great
views of passers-by on busy Elizabetes iela as well as the
twisted bronze statues of the Splendid Palace cinema next
door, its tucked away off of the street so you could pass by
and never know its there. An early breakfast and refined
meat and seafood main courses are certainly tempting
as are over 300 specially selected wines and spirits from
around the globe.QC-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28
90 85, www.tinto.lv. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A
Nightlife
Food is our passion

Beer is our obsession
Music is our true love
Sports is our madness
Irish joie de vivre in Riga since 1994!

GRCINIEKU IELA 4, OLD RIGA. OPEN DAILY 11-01, FRI, SAT 11-04. WWW.PUB.LV
VNA STUDIJA
Enjoy a reasonably priced glass, carafe or bottle of wine
in this refined, yet relaxed establishment in Rigas art nouveau district. If you cant make up your mind, choose one
of the specials on the board, ask one of the knowledgeable staff or trust in the judgement of leading wine critics,
whose ratings are published in the menu. Local and world
press is also available as well as Mediterranean tapas and
for a surcharge you can buy a bottle at its adjoining shop
and drink it in the bar.QB-3, Elizabetes 10, tel. (+371) 67
28 32 05, www.vinastudija.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Also at I-3, Audju
16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10 44 30. Open 10:00 22:00; C-5, Stabu 30, tel. (+371) 67 27 60 10. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00; all shops
open 10:00 - 22:00. AS
VNS AR ODZIU
This tiny wine bar is located right next to the Swedish
Gate in what used to be part of Old Rigas medieval
fortifications. Oddly enough, it specialises in a small
selection of French, Romanian and Moldovan boutique
wines and you can enjoy them here with homemade
pts and generous servings of European cheeses.
The atmosphere is certainly cosy with only three small
tables on offer and an entire wall covered in wine bottles.QH-1/2, Tora 7/9 (entrance from Troku), tel.
(+371) 29 13 68 53, www.vinsarodzinu.lv. Open 14:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. A
SCAMS: TALES FROM THE

TRENCHES
The growth of the local tourism industry has created
countless new jobs for Latvians, but it has also spawned
another lucrative trade, which seems to be inevitable
in Eastern Europe scams and rip-offs. While most
bars and restaurants are happy to welcome tourists
into their establishments, there are some rotten apples
that will do anything to take your money. Strip clubs,
nightclubs and late night bars seem to be the biggest
culprits (not any of the venues listed in this guide)
often taking advantage of already inebriated patrons.
Be wary of young attractive girls on Lvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby bar. Youll
be shocked to discover later that the barely palatable
bottle of wine you bought them costs 500 or more.
If you refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you
give them your PIN code. Other scams include taking
your credit card information and buying stuff online or
charging your card for much more than you purchased.
Avoid seedy bars and try to always pay in cash at nightclubs, even if they seem reputable. Read the latest horror stories that our readers have published online at
www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga/Scams:-tales-fromthe-trenches_70957f
69
Sightseeing
ESSENTIAL RIGA
ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE
Visit the biggest gallery of Art Nouveau architecture by
Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the illustrious
filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who was born in Riga. Most of
the buildings have now been renovated and of particular
interest is the house at Strlnieku 4a. Built in 1905 it has
since undergone a complete facelift and is now home to
the Stockholm School of Economics in Riga. Dont miss
the Riga Art Nouveau Museum at the end of Alberta iela, a
must see.QB-3, Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8, 13; Elizabetes 10a
& 10b; Strlnieku 4a.
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
ETNOGRFISKAIS BRVDABAS MUZEJS)
Take the trip to the north shore of Lake Jugla and youll be
rewarded with nearly 90 hectares of life as it used to be.
Farmsteads, windmills, fishing villages, churches and other
historic structures have been moved here from their original
locations throughout the Latvian countryside and preserved
for posterity. Watch craftsmen perform various tasks or try
some Latvian food and drink in the tavern. Take bus N1 from
the corner of Merea and Trbatas to the Brvdabas muzejs
stop. Take tram N6 to the last stop and follow the bike path
the rest of the way to the museum.QBrvbas gatve 440,
tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 4.27. K
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNCA)
The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187
x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Riga Cathedral also has
one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,768 pipes!). It was
such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece of
music in its honour. The drop from Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums) to the churchs base shows how the level of the
city has risen in the 800 years since its foundations were laid
on the site of a Livonian fishing village. Although currently
undergoing renovations, its still open to the public. The
price of the ticket also includes access to its Romanesque
cloister.QH-1, Doma laukums, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13,
www.doms.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 2.85. RC
ST. PETERS CHURCH (PTERBAZNCA)
First mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1209, St. Peters
was a Catholic church until 1523, when it turned Lutheran.
Its wooden tower, the highest in Europe at that time, was
destroyed several times. It first collapsed in 1666 and was
rebuilt a year later. To see how long it would last, the builders hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel
broke into, the greater the towers longevity. Alas, a pile of
straw cushioned the glass fall and the spire burnt down
one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again
in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual was
repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift to
the observation platform for spectacular views of the city.
QI-2, Skru 19, tel. (+371) 67 18 19 43, peterbaznica.
riga.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: church & tower 7.
THE MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION OF LATVIA

(1940 - 1991) (LATVIJAS OKUPCIJAS MUZEJS)
This museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia is now located in the former US embassy
on Raia bulvris.The various exhibits display the atrocities committed against the people of Latvia and the systematic destruction of their nations sovereignty. Visitors
can catch a glimpse of the intolerable living conditions
of Siberian labour camps and see firsthand how Latvians
managed to keep their spirits up in this frozen wasteland.
Exhibits are available in English and Latvian, but you can
also take a guided tour of the museum in four languages.
QG-2, Raia bulvris 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 27 15, www.
okupacijasmuzejs.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: donations.
CHURCHES
OLD ST. GERTRUDES CHURCH (VEC SV.
ERTRDES BAZNCA)
Anyone who walks down ertrdes iela cant help but notice the monumental neo-gothic church at the beginning
of the street. Consecrated in 1869, this red brick masterpiece topped with a green copper spire was designed by
one of the citys most prolific architects, J.D. Felsko. Unfortunately, some of its decorative ornaments cast in concrete are now in a sad state and hang precariously above
passers-by. Many of the art nouveau buildings surrounding the church are also worth a look.QB-4, ertrdes 8,
tel. (+371) 67 27 57 07, www.gertrude.lv. Open 10:00 14:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Fri, Sat.
ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL (PAREIZTICGO
KATEDRLE)
Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church
capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a planetarium during the occupation but was finally returned to
its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of
the churchs ornate works of art including wall and ceiling frescoes by the famous Russian painter Vereshchagin.
Much of the cathedral has now been restored to its former
glory.QG-3, Brvbas 23, tel. (+371) 67 21 12 16, www.
pravoslavie.lv.
St. Alexander Nevsky Church in all its yellow glory
M.Zaprauskis
Sightseeing
RIGA CHURCH OF JESUS
(RGAS EV. LUT. JZUS BAZNCA)
After decades of war in Livonia, the Swedish Empire finally
gained control of Riga in 1621. To celebrate an end to war,
it was decided that a church dedicated to Jesus should be
built outside the city gates. Work was completed in 1638,
but sadly peace didnt last long and the church was destroyed by Russian troops in 1656. It was rebuilt in 1688,
but was once again destroyed during the Russian siege
of Riga in 1710. It rose from the ashes in 1733 only to be
razed yet again by the Russian rulers of Riga in 1812 fearing
an attack from Napoleons troops. The current octagonal
structure was erected in 1818. It has a 27m-high tower and
is the largest wooden church in Latvia.QE-4, Elijas 18, tel.
(+371) 67 22 41 23, www.jezusdraudze.lv. Open Tue
14:00 - 20:00, Wed 09:30 - 15:00, Thu 14:00 - 18:00, Fri
09:30 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sat. (services: Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00 - Latvian).
ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKY ORTHODOX CHURCH
(SV. ALEKSANDRA EVSKA PAREIZTICGO
BAZNCA)
Construction of this Classicist wooden building began
in 1820 and was completed five years later. In 1862 its
eclectic-style belfry was added. Yellow and round with
a large green dome, its hard to miss it on the corner of
Brvbas and Blaumaa. Inside youll find three porticoes,
beautiful icons and, unusually, a central altar in the middle of the room.QC-4, Brvbas 56, tel. (+371) 67 28 32
01, www.xram.lv.
ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL (JKABA KATEDRLE)
This church beside the parliament was first mentioned in
ancient documents in 1225. In 1522, it became the first
church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but during a
brief Polish occupation 60 years later it was returned to
its Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. Its also interesting to note that St. James was one of the first three
churches built in Riga and unlike the Riga Cathedral and
St. Peters where mass was held in German, it held services in Latvian until the Reformation.QH-1, Jkaba 9, tel.
(+371) 67 32 64 19, www.catholic.lv/katedrale. Open
07:00 - 19:00. The cathedral is closed 13:00 - 14:30,
except Sundays.
ST. JOHNS (JA BAZNCA)
First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel
of a Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were
closed during the Reformation in 1523. The building
was used for a time as the citys armoury, until it was
taken over by a Lutheran congregation in 1582. During
the buildings construction two monks were bricked
into the southern wall and lived out their lives there,
fed through the window grate. In the summer months
organ and vocal music concerts are held here every
Saturday at 17:00, which are open to the public.QI-2,
Skru 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28, www.janabaznica.
lv. Open 11:00 - 20:00 (closed during private ceremonies such as weddings, etc.).
71
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS
FIRE-FIGHTING MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
UGUNSDZSBAS MUZEJS)
Set up in 1978 on the premises of a former fire station built
in 1912, this museum displays the history of fire fighting in
Latvia from the second half of the 19th century until the
present. View fire fighting equipment, uniforms, photographs and documents for a nominal fee.QB-4, Hanzas 5,
tel. (+371) 67 33 13 34, muzejs.vugd.gov.lv. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.28. RC
Menorah at the Riga Ghetto & Holocaust Museum
M.Zaprauskis
JEWISH RIGA
JEWS IN LATVIA MUSEUM (MUZEJS EBREJI
LATVJI)
Located on the third floor, this small, yet informative museum documents, in Latvian and English, the history of
Jewish life in Latvia beginning with the 18th century. Visitors can discover the important role Jews played in Latvian
society and the contributions they made to intellectual
life, the arts and even sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the suffering Latvian Jews experienced at
the hands of the Nazis and Soviets. The last section of the
museum entitled The Jewish People Survived illustrates
the triumphant rebirth of Judaism in Latvia after independence. Maps of Jewish sights in Riga are available at the
entrance.QC-4, Skolas 6, tel. (+371) 67 28 34 84, www.
jewishmuseum.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
RIGA GHETTO AND LATVIAN HOLOCAUST MUSEUM (RGAS GETO LATVIJAS HOLOKAUSTA
MUZEJS)
Although more of an outdoor monument with exhibits
than a museum, this courtyard between Maskavas and
Krasta streets is still worth a visit, especially if youre interested in Jewish history. Its main feature is an ominously
long wall covered with the names of victims of the Holocaust in Latvia. You can also look at Nazi propaganda,
horrifying photos of tortured bodies, stills of ghetto life
and grainy black and whites of old synagogues across the
country, most of which no longer exist. A small indoor exhibition is also usually available.QE-4, Maskavas 14a (entrance from Krasta), tel. (+371) 67 27 08 27, www.rgm.lv.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
SYNAGOGUE (PEITAV SHUL)
Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house
and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong community. Although it was used as a warehouse during the
Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were
hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the building was not burned to the ground as others had been due
to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga.QI-2,
Peitavas 6/8, tel. (+371) 67 21 45 07, www.jews.lv. Open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
LAIMA CHOCOLATE MUSEUM (LAIMAS

OKOLDES MUZEJS)
Latvias largest chocolate producer has opened up a fun
and fascinating interactive museum in its historic premises on Miera Street. After registering and receiving your
QR-coded admission ticket you can proceed into a number of different exhibits that trace the long history of the
company whose traditions date back to 1870. An adjoining Laima shop and caf is also available and if you book
well in advance you can also join a creative workshop and
make your own chocolates!QB-5, Miera 22, tel. (+371) 66
15 47 77, www.laimasokoladesmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7, children 3 - 5.
LATVIAN PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
FOTOGRFIJAS MUZEJS)
This small museum covers the development of photography in Latvia from 1839 - 1941. View antique equipment
from the previous two centuries and the worlds largest
exhibit dedicated to the famous Latvian produced Minox
spy camera. The first floor displays black and white stills of
Latvians at work, war and play and key historic events such
as the 1905 Revolution and WWI battles.QI-2, Mrstau 8,
tel. (+371) 67 22 27 13, www.fotomuzejs.lv. Open 10:00
- 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission:
2.13; photos or filming 2.85.
MONUMENTAL HEADS
Impressive in its scale, yet
somewhat creepy in its subject matter, this collection of
huge concrete dolls heads
that won the prestigious
Kler Prize for contemporary
Estonian art will be available to the Latvian public at
the Arsenls Exhibition Hall (H-1, Tora 1, www.lnmm.
lv) from February 13 - March 22, 2015. By all accounts
artist Jass Kaselaan represents a new generation of Estonian artists who are often described as monumentalists who lack the ambition to create actual monuments.
The Square of Dolls installation, which is so massive
that it barely fits into the exhibition space, is also supplemented by black and white photographs. Tickets
cost 1.42. Image: The Square of Dolls by Jass Kaselaan.
Sightseeing
LATVIAN SPORTS MUSEUM

(LATVIJAS SPORTA MUZEJS)
This small museum housed in an historic medieval
building traces the evolution of Latvian sport from the
late 19th-century when cycling, swimming and wrestling were all the rage to the present day when hockey
and other winter activities seem to dominate. Look
at black and white photos, old medals, posters from
the 1930s and some truly interesting memorabilia like
world champion Uljana Semjonovas enormous (mens
US 21/EU 58) basketball shoes! An excellent colour
photo exhibit is available upstairs.QI-2, Alksnja 9, tel.
(+371) 67 22 51 27, www.sportamuzejs.lv/index.php.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission: 0.71.
MENTZENDORFFS HOUSE
(MENCENDORFA NAMS)
For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that
once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must.
Restored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true
medieval atmosphere are all here for your perusal. Not
only can you see how the medieval rich lived in their
fine apartments, but also how the servants toiled in the
massive kitchen area. Guided tours in English, German
and Russian are available for 10.QI-2, Grcinieku 18,
tel. (+371) 67 21 29 51, www.mencendorfanams.com.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.42
- 2.85; photos 2.85.
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS & DESIGN

(DEKORATVS MKSLAS UN DIZAINA
MUZEJS)
Latvian textiles, ceramics as well as glass, wood, leather
and metal work are all housed in this gallery/museum.
Formerly St. Georges church, its the oldest surviving
stone building in Riga and dates back to the 13th century.
You can also purchase Latvian National Art Museum souvenirs and books at its shop. Exhibitions usually cost extra.
QI-2, Skru 10/20, tel. (+371) 67 22 22 35, www.lnmm.
lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: 2.13 - 4.27.
MUSEUM OF PHARMACY (FARMCIJAS
MUZEJS)
The making of medicine used to be an art, judging from
the exhibit in this historic home in Old Riga. Displays of
porcelain containers, tools and century-old remedies trace
the history of pharmacology in Latvia, and the authentic
drug store brings visitors back to the 1920s. Its worth
calling ahead to book a tour, because only then will the
more obscure and even ominous aspects of prescribing
and creating medicine be explained. Many of the antique
packages and flasks contain their original contents, which
in some cases are still potent. Just because the warning
labels arent in a language you understand doesnt mean
you should try the drugs.QI-2, Vgnera 13, tel. (+371)
67 21 30 08, fm.mvm.lv/en. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission: 2.13. RC
73
Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF RIGAS HISTORY AND NAVIGATION (RGAS VSTURES UN KUNIECBAS
MUZEJS)
Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the
first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia
and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days
of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays
Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as the
sword used by Rigas executioner in the 16th century and
the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can also
take a peek at Riga Cathedrals courtyard, which is also
open to the public, from upstairs.QH/I-1, Palasta 4, tel.
(+371) 67 35 66 76, www.rigamuz.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 4.27. RC
MUSEUM OF ROMANS SUTA AND ALEKSANDRA
BECOVA (ROMANA SUTAS UN ALEKSANDRAS
BECOVAS MUZEJS)
Head into the courtyard and take the stairs to the fifth floor
to find this small, yet fascinating museum dedicated to a
husband and wife that produced a wide variety of interesting art in the 1920s and 1930s. Romans Suta painted common scenes such as pub life, but is perhaps best known
for his contribution to the world of design having created
film sets, fashion and porcelain flatware. His wife Aleksandra was an accomplished painter who specialised in portraits. You can see period furniture, paintings, sketches and
memorabilia in this restored apartment where they once
lived.QC-4, Elizabetes 57a - 26, www.lnmm.lv/lv/sbm.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission: 2.13.
MUSEUM OF WAR (KARA MUZEJS)
Latvia is one of the most war-ravaged countries in Europe.
Crusader, Swedish, Polish, German and Russian armies
have all left their mark. This museum of photos and memorabilia documents the struggles of the 20th century, from
WWI and the war for independence up to and including
the Nazi and Soviet occupations of WWII. One exhibition
chronicles the development of the Latvian army from WWI
until 1940.QH-2, Smilu 20, tel. (+371) 67 22 81 47, www.
karamuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: free.
Naked and happy at the Opera House fountain
M.Zaprauskis
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LATVIA (LATVIJAS DABAS MUZEJS)

One of Rigas oldest museums has been renovated and
modernised in recent years with interactive exhibits, informative touch screens and learning games for the kids. The
second floor is dedicated to palaeontology and geology
with mock-ups of ancient ecosystems and fossils under
glass, while the third floor specialises in zoology with an
unparalled taxidermy collection that includes everything
from eagles to lions and even a giraffe. The fourth and
fifth floors present exhibits relating to human evolution,
marine biology, botany and entomology.QD-4, Barona 4,
tel. (+371) 67 35 60 24, www.dabasmuzejs.gov.lv. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 2.13; audio guides in
English or Russian 5.69. RC
PAUL STRADIN MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF
MEDICINE (P. STRADIA MEDICNAS MUZEJS)
Named in honour of the Latvian physician Pauls Stradi,
this fascinating museum traces the medical practice
throughout the ages. View straight jackets, old medical equipment, a recreated 19th-century pharmacy and
plaques warning of smallpox in a stately building overlooking the Kronvalda Park.QB-3, Antonijas 1, tel. (+371)
67 22 26 65, www.mvm.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 2.13. RC
RIGA ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM (RGAS
JGENDSTILA MUZEJS)
This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Latvias best art nouveau architects once lived - Konstantns
Pkns. The prolific artist and engineer who was responsible for the creation of no less than 250 buildings in Riga
also designed this impressive edifice. The historic house was
also home to the illustrious painter Janis Rozentls and the
writer Rdolfs Blaumanis to whom another museum is dedicated on the top floor. View period furniture and artwork
from one of the Latvian capitals most creative eras. QB-3,
Alberta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65, www.jugendstils.riga.
lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3.50. RC
RIGA BOURSE ART MUSEUM (MKSLAS
MUZEJS RGAS BIRA)
The former Riga Stock Exchange now houses an excellent
collection of 17th-century Chinese, Japanese and Delft Blue
porcelain from the Netherlands, three centuries of silverware from the Baltics, Russia and Germany as well as some
lesser-known, but no less impressive paintings by Dutch
masters of the Golden Era. Although the lighting could be
better in the main hall, you can find some real gems in the
exhibit of paintings including a winter landscape by Monet.
An Eastern gallery is also available, which includes everything from Egyptian mummies to priceless Southeast Asian
artefacts. The ugly brown hue of the building is supposedly the original colour of the Venetian Palazzo style edifice.
QH-1, Doma laukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 64 67, www.
rigasbirza.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 2.85 - 6.40. AW
Sightseeing
RGA PORCELAIN MUSEUM (RGAS PORCELNA
MUZEJS)
The Konventa Sta houses the only porcelain collection
of its kind in the Baltics.The exhibit traces the rich history of porcelain manufacturing in Riga, chiefly started
in 1841. An enormous red and gold vase dominates the
exhibit, and is a standout not only because of its size, but
because it was specially made for Riga on her 700th birthday in 1901. One room is filled with works from the Soviet
era, when images of leaders were immortalised on vases.
QI-2, Kalju 9/11 (Konventa Sta), tel. (+371) 67 01 29
44, porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 1.42.
SUN MUSEUM (SAULES MUZEJS)
Iveta Graule, the museums owner and curator, began
collecting images of the sun with the purchase of a silver
necklace ornament in Portugal in 1999. Over the years her
collection grew so large that she finally decided to open
a museum to house it. View over 350 porcelain, metal,
iron, wood, papier-mch, coconut and glass wall decorations of the sun from 43 countries and six continents at
Europes only sun museum. You can also paint your own
plaster sun in the workshop, which is included in the price
of admission. Not surprisingly, the collection keeps growing as visitors donate their own sun mirrors, clocks, plates
and ceremonial masks from around the globe.QI-3, Vau
30, tel. (+371) 67 22 55 87/(+371) 29 69 04 16, www.
saulesmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults
3.56, children 2.85, children age 4 - 6 1.42. TJ
PARKS & CEMETERIES

BASTION HILL (BASTEJKALNS)
This hill was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old
defensive sand bulwark. Within its precincts are memorial
stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the
January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera
operators documenting the stormy events. Despite the
popular coverage of the Gulf War at the time, their footage
was shown all over the globe, much to the chagrin of the
Soviets.QG-2, Separating Old Riga from the new centre.
School kids take advantage of snow on Bastion Hill
M.Zaprauskis
LATVIAN DESIGN
A series of exhibitions dedicated to Latvian design are
part of the official EU 2015 cultural programme and
the Museum of Decorative Art and Design (I-2, Skru
10/20, www.lnmm.lv) will host one of these, Design
Manifestation / Humanisation, until March 29, 2015.
This will be a unique opportunity to see how local design has crept into our daily lives. Hardly the sole domain of artists and intellectuals, this exhibition shows
the human component of Latvian design and how it
affects our daily lives from the clothes we wear to the
bicycle we ride to work. Over 100 items created by local
designers will be on display. Tickets cost 3.56. Image:
DECO collection bowls by an&angel.
ESPLANADE PARK (ESPLANDE)

The land that currently comprises the Esplande Park was
once an unruly and unkempt hill known as Senais or Kubes
kalns. It was mentioned as early as the 12th century as a
staging point for enemies to attack the area, which is why
it was finally levelled by military decree in 1784. The flattened land later served as a parade ground for the local
garrison, but was ultimately converted into a de facto park
after locals grew accustomed to its pavilions during Rigas
700th anniversary celebrations in 1901. Today its a popular
place to stop in the summer for childrens attractions and
a cool drink. The park includes statues of renowned writer
Rainis and the Latvian armys first commander-in-chief,
Oskars Kalpaks. Its lawns and shady paths are flanked by
the Orthodox Cathedral, the Latvian Art Academy and the
National Art Museum.QF/G-3, Between Elizabetes, Kalpaka, Valdemra & Brvbas.
VRMANE GARDEN PARK (VRMANES DRZS)
One of Rigas oldest and most popular parks was created
in the wake of a colossal error that resulted in the razing of
most of the citys wooden suburbs. The buildings outside
the walls of the old town were set to the torch in 1812 in
anticipation of Napoleons troops that never actually arrived. Wealthy burgher Anna Gertrud Whrmann donated
the land and other citizens pledged money to create the
park. Today its still a great place to play some chess with
locals, read a book, listen to free concerts at the amphitheatre or just have a picnic on the grass. A number of
restaurants and seasonal cafs are also available as well as
a large childrens playground.QC-4, Between Elizabetes,
Barona, Merea & Trbatas.
75
Sightseeing
PLACES OF INTEREST
CAT HOUSE (KAU MJA)
The Cat House is named for two black felines perched on
the points of its towers. Not only did the beasts curse their
first sculptor, he fatally fell while putting them up, but their
purpose was to cause trouble. Roughly 100 years ago, the
Latvian owner of the building was excluded from the
powerful Big Guild across the road by its ethnocentric German occupants. He ordered the cats to be turned around,
backside up, as an insult to his enemies. They were turned
around after a lengthy court battle and he was eventually
admitted to the Guild.QH-2, Meistaru 10/12.
CENTRAL MARKET (CENTRLTIRGUS)
When construction was completed in 1930, Rigas Central
Market was one of the largest and most modern marketplaces on the European continent. Eighty years later, four
of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin hangars
during WWI, still serve their original function as meat, fish,
produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmosphere also
hasnt changed much, although most of the hawkers are
more reluctant to haggle than in the past. The markets
spill out beyond the confines of the hangars and operate
throughout the day, some longer than others. Each pavilion has slightly different opening hours so if in doubt
check its informative website.QJ-3, Centrltirgus iela,
www.centraltirgus.lv. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sun
08:00 - 16:00.
ITALIAN PORTRAITS
Holding the Presidency of
the Council of the European
Union has its advantages,
especially for local art lovers. As a part of Latvias EU
2015 cultural programme
an exhibition entitled Two
Centuries of Italian Portrait Painting. 1580 - 1780
will be available at the Riga
Bourse Art Museum (H-1, Doma laukums 6, www.rigasbirza.lv) from February 7 - April 19, 2015. The collection of paintings, most of which are from the Bologna
Pinacoteca, are a gesture of good will from Italy, the
previous EU Council President. The choice of Bologna
isnt a coincidence either, as one of the dukes of the
Duchy of Courland (present-day western Latvia) was
so moved by Bolognas art scene that he even funded
an annual prize at the Bologna Academy of Art in 1785
called the Concorso Curlandese. View spectacular works
by some of Italys best portrait artists beginning with
Lavinia Fontanas 16th-century paintings and ending
with Gaetano Gandolfis late-18th-century works. Tickets cost 4.27. Image: Lady with a Dog by Alessandro
Tiarini (1577 - 1668).
GREAT & SMALL GUILD HALLS (LIEL & MAZ ILDE)

During the centuries of German economic domination,
the guilds were Rigas power brokers. The former, dating
from 1384, was the home of the merchants, while the
latter held the citys artisans. These slightly different audiences are reflected in the respective usage of the buildings today: while the Great Guild is home to the Latvian
Symphony Orchestra, its smaller cousin hosts conferences
and the occasional disco. The Small Guild is also open to
the public during the day for a small admission fee.QH-2,
Amatu 6 and Amatu 5, www.gilde.lv/maza.
HOUSE OF BLACKHEADS (MELNGALVJU NAMS)
One of Rigas architectural treasures, the House of Blackheads was erected in 1344, but was embellished and
expanded in the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries. It was destroyed in 1941 and its ruins were completely demolished
by the Soviets in 1948, but it finally rose from the ashes in
the late 1990s in keeping with the medieval saying above
its entrance that states if I should fall, build me again. A
striking Gothic building with a Dutch Renaissance facade,
it was used to house single members of the merchants
guild who were also notorious revellers of their day. Sadly,
the President of Latvia has moved his offices here while
Riga Castle is being renovated, so the building is currently
closed to the public.QI-2, Rtslaukums 7, tel. (+371) 67
04 43 00, www.melngalvjunams.lv.
LAIMA CLOCK (LAIMAS PULKSTENIS)
Satiekamies pie Laimas pulkstea - lets meet at the Laima
clock! The yellow-brown clock in front of the Freedom Monument has been a meeting place since it was erected by social democrats in 1924 so people wouldnt be late for work.
For decades it has advertised Laima chocolate, and many
a sweet romance has started here. The famous clock was
repaired some years ago and its time is now synchronised
by satellite.QH-2, Where Brvbas and Aspazijas meet.
LATVIAN NATIONAL OPERA (LATVIJAS
NACIONL OPERA)
This spectacular edifice sandwiched between Old Riga
and the Riga canal was erected in 1863, but was largely
destroyed by a gas leak, which resulted in a devastating
fire in 1882. Thankfully, the building was restored to architect Ludwig Bohnstedts original design and reopened five
years later, but this time with a state-of-the-art technology called electricity. The new opera included the citys
very first electric power station, whose tall smoke stack is
still visible today. The building and its unmistakable ionic
columns were completely refurbished once again in the
early 1990s and a new annex with 300 seats was added in
2001. You can take a public tour of the building in English
once a month for 8 (see website for exact dates) or arrange a 45-minute group tour (minimum 10 people) at tel.
(+371) 25 63 58 33, but we recommend you simply take in
a world-class ballet or opera performance here to fully experience its magnificence. The opera is also surrounded by
beautiful gardens.QH-3, Aspazijas bulvris 3, tel. (+371)
67 07 37 77, www.opera.lv.
Sightseeing
OLD CITY WALLS & SWEDISH GATE
(VECPILSTAS MRIS & ZVIEDRU VRTI)
This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications, the rest having been progressively knocked down
because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was
built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored
during Soviet times, hence its rather new appearance. It
used to run between the Bishops Castle and the Castle
of the Brothers of the Sword. At the end of Aldaru, is the
Swedish Gate (Zviedru vrti), built in 1698 to celebrate the
Scandinavians occupation of the city, and the only such
structure left in Old Riga. The apartment above belonged
to the city executioner or bende, who would put a red rose
on the window ledge on the morning before a head rolled.
QH-2, At the corner of Tora and Aldaru.
PARLIAMENT (SAEIMA)
When the privileged descendants of the medieval Livonian Knights who colonised present-day Latvia built this imposing Renaissance-style building as their so-called Landtag in 1867, they probably didnt have the slightest inkling
that it would later serve as the parliament of an independent Latvian state. Although a devastating fire and modifications by occupying powers have left their marks on the
structure, its impressive eclectic interiors and marble stairs
still survive, but the sculpture of Wolter von Plettenberg
(1450 - 1535), one of the most memorable masters of the
Livonian Order, was replaced by a depiction of Latvias
own epic hero Lplis, the Bearslayer. You can arrange
a free guided tour of the premises at (+371) 67 08 73 53 or
ekskursijas@saeima.lv.QH-1, Jkaba 11, tel. (+371) 67 08
73 21, ekskursijas@saeima.lv, www.saeima.lv.
RIGA CASTLE (RGAS PILS)
Built in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle
was destroyed several times during battles with the local
townspeople. After the Orders destruction, the various occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Latvias
first post-Cold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it his
official office to continue the tradition begun by Latvias
interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s. It also housed
the National History Museum of Latvia, but tragically, a fire
broke out during renovations on June 21, 2013 and parts of
the interior were gutted. Priceless historical objects from
the museum that were stored in the basement were also
damaged or destroyed.QH-1, Pils laukums 3.
RIGA NATIONAL ZOO (RGAS ZOOLOISKAIS
DRZS)
Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the
globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese
macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers,
giraffes and hippopotami, Asian red pandas and European bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch
tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and insects. Take tram N11 from Barona to the Meaparks stop.
QMea prosp. 1, tel. (+371) 67 51 84 09, www.rigazoo.
lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 6, children 4
- 18 years 4, free for children under four.
OLD RIGA WALKING TOUR

One could easily stroll about Old Rigas meandering
streets and ancient alleyways for days, but for most
travellers time is at a premium and a long journey is a
luxury few can afford. With this in mind, weve prepared
a condensed walking tour which includes many of Old
Rigas best sights.
Begin at H-3, the Freedom Monument on the
edge of Old Riga and the
famous Laima Clock. Walk
up to the top of G-2, Bastion
Hill for views and then walk
across ZA Meierovica (Basteja) until you reach H-2, the
red brick Powder Tower
and the Museum of War
next door. Next walk down Tora. The James Barracks on the right side of the street is home to many
trendy shops and cafs and remnants of H-2, the Old
City Walls are visible on the left side. Walk left through
the H-2, Swedish Gate and immediately make a right
on Troku, one of Rigas narrowest streets. Go left
then straight between H-1, St. James Church and the
Saeima (parliament).
Make a left on Klostera to find H-1, the Three
Brothers ahead. Take a peak inside to see how medieval Europeans once lived. Go right on Maz Pils to Pils
laukums where youll find H-1, Riga Castle which is
currently being renovated.
Next walk up Pils to Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums). Take a tour of H-1, Riga Cathedral, its
Romanesque cloister and the Riga Bourse Art Museum. Walk down Tirgou and take a break at one of
its many pubs, restaurants and cafs and then proceed
to Kau iela. Make another right there and walk to I-2,
the House of Blackheads, the new town hall, I-1
and the Latvian Riflemen Monument.
Next walk down Grcinieku in the opposite direction of the river to I-2, the Mentzendorff House. After a short tour of the house continue down Grcinieku
and make a left on Skru. You can take a look at I-2, St.
Johns Church on the right or walk to the entrance of
St. Peters on the left and take the lift up to the top
of the church for excellent views. On Skru youll also
find dozens of souvenir vendors. Walk into I-2, Johns
Courtyard (Ja sta) and emerge on Kalju. Go
left until you reach H-2, Livs Square (Lvu laukums)
which is home to H-2, the Great and Small Guildhalls,
the Chekov Russian Drama Theatre and the Cat
House as well as some beautiful medieval buildings.
This concludes your walking tour of Old Riga. You
can relax with a well-deserved mulled wine at one of
the market stands here or just do some shopping. If
youd like to see a video of this tour visit: www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga.
77
Sightseeing
EXPLORE LATVIA
Latvia boasts dozens of ancient Crusader castles,
nearly 500km of untouched beaches, scores of manor
houses that have been converted into hotels and spas,
charming medieval towns and pristine nature reserves
that are just begging to be explored. Although many
of these attractions can be reached by public transport, if youd like to see more than one in a day, we
recommend you contact our English-speaking friend
Jnis (janisosis@inbox.lv or (+371) 29 58 04 48) who
will drive you anywhere you want to go in Latvia (or
the Baltics) for an affordable fee.
Sigulda & Turaida: only an
hour train ride from Rigas central station youll find this historic
gem perched atop a valley overlooking the meandering River
Gauja. Explore two castle ruins,
one renovated castle, a 19thcentury manor house and the largest sandstone cave
in the Baltics. Adrenalin junkies can also bungee jump
from a cable car or take a run in a summer sled on the
bobsleigh track.
Csis: located a little farther
down the same railway line, the
charming town of Csis is considered to be the most Latvian
city in the whole country and its
also the birthplace of the Latvian
flag, one of Europes oldest. Its
main attraction is its enormous Crusader castle, but
the town itself and its 12th-century church are also
picturesque and worth a visit.
Rundle Palace & Bauska:
only an hour bus ride south
of Riga youll find the town of
Bauska whose main claim to
fame is its giant castle situated
at the confluence of the Msa
and Mmele rivers. Its also a
good place from which to explore nearby Rundle
Palace, the most impressive 18th-century baroque
treasure in the Baltics and an absolute must see attraction.
Kuldga: a former Hanseatic
city and one-time capital of the
Grand Duchy of Courland, this
picturesque town is one of the
best preserved medieval cities
in Latvia. Although its imposing
castle was completely destroyed,
its 17th-century wooden buildings with terracotta
tile roofs are its main attraction as well as its historic
churches, cobblestone streets and the widest waterfall in Europe, which can be viewed from one of the
longest brick bridges on the continent.
TOWN HALL SQUARE (RTSLAUKUMS)

Most of the medieval square was destroyed during the
last war, but has now been rebuilt with mixed results.
The reconstructed town hall on the northern side of the
square is graced with a baroque tower and a postmodern
roof and is now once again open for business. The modern
building that obscures the view of the square from Kau is
simply too ugly for words and has no place in the historic
old town. The square is also graced by a statue of Roland,
Rgas patron saint of sorts.QI-2, Rtslaukums.
TV & RADIO TOWER (TV TORNIS)
If you were wondering what that huge red tower is that
looks like Seattles Space Needle but without the flying saucer on top, it happens to be Latvias national TV and radio
tower. At a height of 368m, its also the tallest such tower
in the European Union. For a small fee you can take the lift
up to the observation deck and get an incredible view at
a slightly less impressive height of 97m above the ground.
Supposedly on a clear day you can not only see the entire
city and the sea, but also the tallest hills in Sigulda over
50km away! Take trolleybus No.19 from the Inenieru iela
stop next to the University of Latvia to the Zausala stop
on the Sala bridge and then walk the rest of the way to the
tower.QZausalas krastmala 1, tel. (+371) 67 10 86 43,
www.tvtornis.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission: 3.70.
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT (SPERU KVARTLS)
Located just behind the Central Market these beautiful
brick buildings were originally erected in the second half
of the 19th century as part of a concerted effort to keep
warehouses out of the city centre. After the massive market was created in the 1930s some of the buildings were
reconstructed, but many still retain their original functional brick architectural style. The area between Maskavas and Krasta streets has been designated an area of urban revitalisation and restaurants, bars and galleries have
opened here as a testament to its rebirth. A playground
has also been added and the waterfront next to the area
has been completely renovated and is now a favourite
spot for locals to take a stroll or to relax on a bench. The
area is also bicycle-friendly.QD/E-4, Speru, Ppolu and
Nu streets and between Maskavas, Turgeva and
Krasta streets, www.spikeri.lv.
WOODEN RIGA (KOKA RGA)
Two restored wooden buildings in the Grzikalns neighbourhood make up the Wooden Riga restoration centre,
which is part community hub and part museum. Enter the
landscaped courtyard to visit the main hall, which is also
a conference room and exhibition hall that displays some
excellent examples of wooden architecture throughout
Latvia via photos and artefacts including a two-storey section of a wooden faade. Next door youll find a number of
apartments restored to how they would have looked during the tsarist, Soviet and pre-WWII eras of Latvian history.
Guided tours can also be arranged if you call ahead.QC-6,
Krsotju 12, tel. (+371) 29 23 36 98, www.kokariga.lv.
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
THE WHITE & THE BLACK
RIGA OUT THERE

Offer daytrips to Sigulda, Jrmala, Rundle Palace and the
Ethnographic Museum in Riga as well as nightlife tours of
the Latvian capital. Also organise extreme sports excursions, airport transfers, accommodation and much more.
Qtel. (+371) 29 38 94 50, www.rigaoutthere.com. A
TRAVEL2RIGA
This experienced company has been arranging special
events, tours and excursions for Rigas guests since 2005.
Travel2Riga offers low-key or VIP nightlife tours, a day out
with AK47s at the shooting range, go-karting, sailing trips,
paintball, zorb football, bungee jumping and even bobsleighing just to name a few activities. Naturally, its guides
can also take you on walking tours of Riga.QI-2, Tirgou
10, tel. (+371) 29 22 83 10, www.travel2riga.com.
SOVIET RIGA
LATVIAN RIFLEMEN MONUMENT (STRLNIEKU
PIEMINEKLIS)
In the centre of Old Riga stands a controversial red granite statue that was originally dedicated to the Latvian Red
Riflemen, some of whom became Lenins personal bodyguards. Some view the monument as a symbol of the old
communist system and would love to tear it down. Others
believe its a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in
the early years of WWI. It now honours all Latvian riflemen,
both Whites and Reds. Politics aside, its an impressive
monument.QJ-1, Strlnieku laukums.
If youd like to see how commercially successful Latvian

artists lived in the 1920s and
30s then drop by the Museum of Romans Suta and
Aleksandra Becova, which
is also hosting a new exhibition unlike most that youve probably seen as its dedicated solely to one painting by Aleksandra Becova.
You can experience the evolution of her painting
The White and the Black and compare the original
photograph of its subjects to the final product from
February 5 - August 8, 2015. The apartment also contains period furniture and interior design elements created by Romans Suta as well as paintings, water colours
and graphic art. Tickets cost 2.13. Image: The White
and the Black (1925) by Aleksandra Becova.
STATUES & MONUMENTS

FREEDOM MONUMENT (BRVBAS PIEMINEKLIS)
Milda, as she is affectionately known, was unveiled in
1935 and is a national shrine for Latvians. Designed by
Krlis Zle, the friezes around the base of the sculpture
depict Latvians singing, working and fighting for their
freedom, while the three stars in the maidens hands represent the three historical regions of the country: Kurzeme,
Vidzeme and Latgale. Locals are always placing flowers at
the base of the monument, an act for which people were
deported to Siberia in Soviet times.QH-3, Where Brvbas
and Raia meet.
KGB VICTIMS MEMORIAL
Surrounded as they are by a cocktail bar, a coffee shop and
a striptease club, one could hardly guess that locals once
considered the unassuming rusted doors of this memorial the very gates of hell. The text on the left side sums
it up best: During the Soviet occupation the state security agency /KGB/ imprisoned, tortured, killed and morally
humiliated its victims in this building.QB-4, Corner of
Brvbas and Stabu.
Red or White, the Riflemen look impressive
M.Zaprauskis
RIGA AVIATION MUSEUM (RGAS AVICIJAS

MUZEJS)
If youre a fan of Tom Clancy novels or the Cold War in general,
then this little known museum located to the right of the airport terminal is a must see when in Riga. Walk among Soviet
helicopters and planes of varying age and size from MiG fighter jets to the enormous Mi-6 passenger helicopter which set
world records for speed and hauling capacity. Its rotor has an
unbelievable diameter of 36m!QAirport (to the right of the
terminal), tel. (+371) 26 86 27 07, aviamuseum.org. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only. Admission:
2.85 for locals, 7.12 for tourists.
ROLAND STATUE
Not unlike other Hanseatic cities across the Baltic Sea region, Riga has had a representation of Roland, the semifictional paladin of Charlemagnes court, since medieval
times. However, it wasnt until the late 19th century that
a permanent statue of this protector figure was erected
on Town Hall Square. The real Roland was a close confidant of the Holy Roman Emperor and died at the Battle of
Roncevaux in 778. He was later glorified in the so-called
Matter of France, a work of medieval literature that painted
the military man as a just protector of the people. The current statue is a replica of the original, which is housed a
short walk away in St. Peters Church.QI-2, Rtslaukums.
79
Shopping
Prices of imported goods in Latvia tend to be inexplicably
high, but local crafts, food and alcohol are still relatively
cheap. Several big, shiny shopping centres are available
and they often come in handy on Sundays when most
small shops are closed.
ANTIQUES
ANTIKVARITS DESARET
If youre at the Central Market and you appreciate antiques
then stop by this small shop behind the vegetable (saku)
pavilion and browse through a good selection of books,
bottles, inter-war kitchen tins, loads of porcelain figurines
and the odd bust of Lenin.QJ-3, Centrltirgus 5. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
ANTIKVARITS GADSIMTI
Sells all kinds of random antique items including books,
magazines, porcelain figurines, coins, medals, paintings,
furniture and Soviet memorabilia.QB-5, aka 91, tel.
(+371) 29 25 43 86. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
KOMISIJAS VEIKALS H & PARTNERIS
This shop lets people sell their wares here for a commission. You can find all manner of interesting items from
antiques and collectibles to mink coats, porcelain and
paintings. The Soviet toy cars in their original boxes really
caught our eye.QC-4, Trbatas 33/35, tel. (+371) 67 22
45 45. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
VOLMAR
Paintings, religious icons, porcelain, memorabilia and
much more.QI-1, Krmu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 78. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
FOOD & CURIO BAZAAR

Buy anything from fresh seasonal
produce and local delicasies like
rye bread baked on maple leaves
to antiques, vintage clothing and
Soviet memorabilia at the Berga
Bazrs open market twice every
month. You can also taste delicious organic food prepared by
chefs from some of Rigas best
restaurants. Visit the bazaar from 10:00 - 16:00 at Elizabetes 83/85 every Saturday of the month. Visit www.
bergabazars.lv for more information.
ROBERTS BOOKS
Owned and operated by a Riga expat, this shop sells
second-hand English language books. You can find anything from guidebooks and romance novels to awardwinning contemporary literature.QC-4, Dzirnavu 51a,
robertsbooksriga.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
VALTERS UN RAPA
This book shop on three floors is probably the biggest in
the Baltics. Mostly Latvian and Russian books, as well as
local maps and guides like this one and some literature in
English and German.QH-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. (+371) 67 22
74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
CONVENIENCE STORES
BOOKS
JA STA
Latvias largest selection of maps and travel booksincluding In Your Pocket guides.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel.
(+371) 67 24 08 94, www.mapshop.lv. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A RC
LIRA
This funky little shop sells new and used books, vinyl, CDs
and DVDs. You can also enjoy a glass of wine while you
browse through the stacks.QC-4, Bazncas 8, tel. (+371) 25
43 41 23, www.lira.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
NARVESEN
This huge chain of convenience stores sells everything
from public transport tickets and international press to
snacks, candy, coffee, hot dogs and beer.QG-3, Brvbas
32, tel. (+371) 67 28 74 02/(+371) 80 00 85 85, www.
narvesen.lv. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Also at C-4, Dzirnavu 74/76; H-2, u
8; and many other locations including the airport and
train and bus stations. AS
ETHNIC & EXOTIC FOOD

STAMBULA (ISTANBUL)
This shop and delicatessen specialises in imported food
from Turkey including halal meats, sausages and cold cuts,
olives, stuffed peppers, canned goods, beverages and
plenty of sweets including Turkish delight.QB-5, Brvbas
95. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
FASHION
A warm hat is an essential purchase in Riga
M.Zaprauskis
DE AVU
This place sells vintage clothing, hand bags, jewellery and
other fashion accessories.QI-3, Vau 39, tel. (+371) 67 21
35 80. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Shopping
LAZY FRANCIS
This trendy childrens fashion boutique and studio located
in the hip Miera iela creative quarter specialises in unique
and colourful designer clothes and accessories for girls
under 13. Browse through the shop for that special dress
with a cup of coffee or tea in hand while your little princess
plays on the indoor swing.QB-5, Miera 19, tel. (+371) 25
61 16 22, www.lazyfrancis.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
PODIUM
This department store specialises in name brand fashion
such as Armani, Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Roberto Cavalli and
many more. It also sells designer furniture and accessories
for your home and kitchen. Take tram No.6 to the Rupnca
VEF stop.QBrvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 16 55 51, www.
podium.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
FLOWERS
FLOWER MARKET
The biggest market for flowers from near and far has been
given a shiny new glass home at its usual location on
Trbatas.QG-3, Trbatas 2a. Open 24hrs.
We ship worldwide
StrElnieku iela 9
(opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum)
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

ART NOUVEAU RIGA
The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell art nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Rigas most famous
facades, silk scarves with art nouveau designs, mugs,
greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, its located at
the end of Alberta iela opposite the Riga Art Nouveau Museum.QB-3, Strlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 30, www.
artnouveauriga.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. A RC
BLACK CAT SOUVENIR SHOP
This souvenir shop located right next to the giant Egle
beer garden sells a huge selection of Latvian gifts from
handmade linens, ceramics and wool mittens and socks to
glassware and amber as well as local arts and crafts. Just
look for the enormous cat outside.QI-2, Maz Jaunavu 8,
tel. (+371) 67 22 55 87. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
CANDLE ROOM
All of the candles sold at this shop are made in Latvia. Buy
special amber candles, candles decorated with historic lithographs of Riga or a huge variety of candles in every shape,
size and colour imaginable.QI-3, Vau 28, tel. (+371) 29 24
51 34, svecuistaba@inbox.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
ELKOR FOOD & WINE
Walk through the caf on the ground floor and then head
downstairs to find this shop selling a good assortment of
gourmet food and drinkQG-3, Brvbas bulvris 19, tel.
(+371) 67 21 34 55, www.foodandwine.lv. Open 10:00 22:00. AS
KEY TO RIGA SOUVENIR SHOP
This souvenir shop specialises in Latvian treats such as roasted
almonds, candy-coated cranberries, gingerbread cookies and
unique amber sweets as well as locally-made candles and
other souvenirs.QH-1, Doma laukums 8A, tel. (+371) 67 22
51 90, www.keytoriga.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00. A
RIGA GIFT SHOP

This cosy gift shop is so crammed full of interesting souvenirs that its hard to walk around without knocking something over. It specialises in gifts by local designers.QI-2,
Kalju 7, tel. (+371) 28 44 49 00. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
RIIJA
All of the linen clothing, felt slippers, ceramics and other
nick-nacks sold at this upmarket design shop were created
by Latvian artists and artisans and nearly all of the items
come in varying shades of grey, beige and white. Definitely worth a look.QC-4, Trbatas 6/8, tel. (+371) 29 20 96
64, www.riija.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. A
SEN KLTS
The only shop in Latvia to specialise in authentic Latvian
folk costumes also sells a wide variety of traditional souvenirs such as Baltic jewellery, ceramics, wool blankets, linen
tablecloths and much more.QI-1/2, Rtslaukums 1 (entrance from Maz Jauniela - Rtes pasa), tel. (+371)
67 24 23 98, www.senaklets.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
TORNIS
Ancient Baltic designs as well as modern pieces can all be
found at the Tower. It also offers a small museum dedicated to Latvian jewellery which includes both replicas and
original artefacts from 10th-century archaeological digs.
QI-2, Grcinieku 11-2 (entrance from Pterbazncas),
tel. (+371) 67 22 02 70, www.balturotas.lv. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
81
Shopping
INTERIOR DESIGN
SHOES
NEW
AN&ANGEL
This exclusive brand of Latvian glassware has been making
elegant bowls and other interior design elements with innovative technology since 2004., but they only recently opened
a showroom.QB-4, Antonijas 24, tel. (+371) 29 69 05 70,
www.angel.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
NEW
IITTALA
This famous Finnish brand has been creating unique interior design elements since 1881. At the end of 2014 it finally
also opened a shop in Riga.QH-3, Aspazijas bulvris 24,
tel. (+371) 67 22 22 70, www.ginalasinterjers.lv. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A
LA BUCCIA FINE SHOES

La Buccia specialises in both womens and mens imported
Italian shoes in modern and classic styles by such brands
as Caccin, Fabi, Dibrera, Giovanni Giusti, Loretta Pettinari
and Roberto Rossi. Parking and tax-free shopping available.QB-4, Brvbas 71, tel. (+371) 67 80 95 75/(+371) 27
70 95 75, www.labuccia.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
MARKETS
CENTRAL MARKET
This giant bazaar with its five huge aircraft hangars is
a truly fascinating place to visit. Buy meat, fish and produce inside or CDs, appliances and clothing outside of the
hangars for suspiciously low prices. Opening hours differ
slightly for each pavilion.QJ-3, Centrltirgus 1, tel. (+371)
67 22 99 85, www.centraltirgus.lv. Open 08:00 - 17:00.
Live lampreys slither about at the Central Market
M.Zaprauskis
MUSIC
RANDOMS
Pop, Latvian, Russian, world, folk, heavy metal and alternative rock music, not to mention souvenirs including
pricey t-shirts lampooning local politicians.QI-2, Kau 4,
tel. (+371) 67 22 52 12, www.randoms.lv. Open 10:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
UPE
Upe, or river in English, is owned by local Latvian celebrity
Ainars Mielavs. The shop sells folk music from around the
globe including Latvian CDs as well as traditional instruments and souvenirs. The outlet on Vau is less touristy
and sells lots of vinyl.QH-2, Vgnera 5, tel. (+371) 67 22
61 19, www.upeveikals.lv, www.upett.lv. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at I-3, Vau
26, tel. (+371) 67 20 55 09. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. A
SHOPPING CENTRES
BERGA BAZRS
Rigas swankiest shopping courtyard offers high-end
shops, restaurants, cafs, a fitness club and a food and
antiques bazaar every second and fourth Saturday of the
month.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas 13, tel. (+371) 67
50 23 10, www.bergabazars.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
ELKOR PLAZA
This huge department store sells everything from name
brand fashion and accessories to furniture, electronics and
childrens toys. Take tram No.6 from Barona to the Rupnca
VEF stop.QBrvbas 201, tel. (+371) 67 07 07 07, www.
elkor.lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALERIJA CENTRS
Already a shopping centre in the 1920s and 1930s, it was
renovated in the 1990s and most recently in 2006. It now
occupies nearly an entire block of Old Riga and houses cafs, a supermarket, and dozens of trendy shops as well as a
spa and yoga centre on the top floor.QI-3, Audju 16, tel.
(+371) 67 01 80 18, www.galerijacentrs.lv. Open 10:00 21:00. Rimi, Narvesen open 08:00 - 22:00. A
GALLERIA RIGA
This new downtown shopping centre on several floors offers dozens of shops never before seen in Latvia as well
as a Rimi supermarket (08:00 - 23:00), a rooftop terrace
right in the centre of Riga and a whole floor of restaurants
and bars (10:00 - 01:00).QC-4, Dzirnavu 67, tel. (+371)
67 30 70 00, www.galleriariga.lv. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
ALKW
SPECIALITY SHOPS
BUTELJONS
This funky shop creates beautiful mugs and glasses from
recycled wine, spirits and beer bottles. You can even bring
your own bottles and have them transformed into practical, sustainable art here.QB-5, Miera 10, tel. (+371) 26 32
93 08, www.buteljons.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
MUHAMORS - MARCIPNS
Part caf, part art gallery and part souvenir shop, you can
buy all kinds of funky things here like ceramic lamps that
look like mushrooms, palm oil candles, buckwheat pillows
and fashion accessories.QB/C-4, Bazncas 14 (entrance
from Lpla), tel. (+371) 67 24 08 31/(+371) 29 14 67
10, www.muhamors.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Shopping
OTR ELPA (SECOND WIND)
This shop sells second hand clothes, electronics, toys,
board games, LPs, DVDs, books (some even in English)
and lots of other stuff that people have donated. Proceeds
go to local charities.QC-4, Marijas 13 (Berga Bazrs),
tel. (+371) 67 28 71 72, www.otraelpa.lv. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-5, Stabu
35, tel. (+371) 22 55 77 70. A
PIENENE (DANDELION)
If youre looking for stylish, yet practical souvenirs and
gifts like organic cosmetics, eco-friendly herbal extracts,
oils, tea and vitamins, wooden developmental toys, designer ceramics and glassware, linen and sweets, this is
the place. A caf selling Latvian beverages and snacks is
also availableQI-2, Kungu 7/9, tel. (+371) 67 21 04 00,
www.studijapienene.lv. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Caf open 10:00 - 23:00. ABK
SUPERMARKETS
RIMI
This large chain of Western supermarkets sells nearly everything a supermarket should, but the hypermarkets on
the outskirts of town are still your best bet for service and
selection.QD-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371)
67 07 30 90, www.rimi.lv. Open 07:00 - 24:00. A
STOCKMANN
It stocks products you wont find anywhere else in Riga like
Campbells soup, Stovetop stuffing and Betty Crocker cake
and brownie mix.QI-3, 13. janvra 8, www.stockmann.
lv. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A
SWEETS
LAIMA
Latvias largest chocolate maker has outlets all over the
city, but you can also buy its products pretty much anywhere including local supermarkets.QH-2, Kau 28, tel.
(+371) 67 22 08 08, www.laima.lv. Open 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija
Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10 44 31. Open 08:00 - 21:00; B-5,
Miera 22 (factory outlet), tel. (+371) 28 65 51 41. Open
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A
NELLEULLA
This exclusive brand of Latvian chocolates also has a
showroom in Old Riga where you can buy all kinds of delicious sweets including its signature truffles with names
like Mascarpone raspberry, balsamic wild berry, cognac
fig, basil mango and many more.QI-2, Audju 1, www.
nelleulla.com.
WINE SHOPS
ARKA
Fine wines and cognac from around the globe including
a decent selection of Australian, Italian and South African wines.QC-4, Trbatas 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 28 48
26, www.interbaltija.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Sun. A
WHAT TO BUY IN RIGA

Amber The petrified sap isnt as plentiful as it is in
Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Latvian beaches. Its sold in all souvenir shops and there
are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peters Church, on
Vau iela behind Hotel Riga and on Lvu laukums.
Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a
screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, postcards, ceramic dishes, books and plaster busts based
on beautiful heads seen on the citys best early 20thcentury facades at Art Nouveau Riga (B-3, Strlnieku 9).
Designer crystal and glassware Although Latvia is
better known for its traditional ceramics, a new generation of local designers has produced beautiful bowls,
plates and other glassware that are in keeping with
modern design trends. You can find excellent examples
at an&angel (B-4, Antonijas 24, www.angel.lv).
Honey The Latvians revere their honey (medus) like
the French do their wine and even claim that it has
healing properties so taste some for free at The Honey
Room (I-2, Pterbazncas 17. Open 10:00 - 19:00).
Local food The following
can be found in any supermarket: Latvian sourdough
(saldskbmaize) bread is delicious and easily transported. Latvian smoked cheese,
carraway seed cheese and
the Talsu ritulis marinated in
herbs are all classic cheeses
worth taking home. Sprats
(protes) in oil, similar to sardines, are the perfect snack
to go with the Latvian vodka you bought.
Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. Upe
(I-2, Vgnera 5. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock
and classical CDs in Riga.
Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cureall elixir, Balzams has been made in Riga since the late
18th century and is still used today to alleviate hangovers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient
in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal
ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in
charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee or currant juice.
Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been producing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found
in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town.
Gotias, or little cows, are another local treat that can
be found at most supermarkets. Theyre essentially
semi-soft sweet cream based candy made with lots of
sugar and packaged in colourful paper. Ask for them
by name.
83
Sports & Leisure

BOWLING
SKATING
BOWLERO
This ultramodern entertainment centre offers 24 bowling
lanes (9 - 14 depending on time). Take bus No.53 from the
Esplande on Brvbas to the RMR stop.QLielirbes 27, tel.
(+371) 67 80 46 00, www.bowlero.lv. Open Mon 15:00 23:00, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. TA RC
22 lanes, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool
tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/restaurant.QE-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.
zelta.lv. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00
- 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
LIDO SKATING RINK (LIDO SLIDOTAVA)

The Lido Recreation Centre not only offers a huge outdoor
skating rink, but also great Latvian food and beer as well as
attractions for the kids. You can also rent penguins for the
kids so they wont fall down on the ice as much. Take bus
N12 from the train station directly or trams N7 or 9 from
Aspazijas to the LIDO stop and walk in the direction of the
windmill.QKrasta 76 (Lido Atptas Centrs), tel. (+371)
67 50 44 20, www.lido.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. Tickets: adults 3 - 3.50/hour, children 2
- 3/hour; skate rental 1.50/weekday, 1.50/hour weekends. TILK
UZVARAS PARK SKATING RINK
Once the mercury consistently stays below zero, you can
use this 20x40m rink just beyond the massive Soviet Victory monument for free if you have your own skates or
rent a pair for 2 - 3 from the kiosk. Take tram N10 from
Grcinieku to either the Slokas iela or Arkdijas parks stop.
QE-2, Uzvaras bulvris 15, tel. (+371) 29 51 12 44, www.
uzvarasparks.lv. Open 11:00 - 21:00.
CURLING
KRLINGA HALLE (CURLING HALL)
Rigas only curling hall! Take trolleybus N18 from aka to
the Eizenteina iela stop.QBiernieku 121h, tel. (+371)
29 53 53 79/(+371) 67 56 56 51, www.kerlingahalle.lv.
Open October - April 07:00 - 23:00, but you must reserve a lane ahead of time.
FITNESS CLUBS & GYMS

MYFITNESS
QC-4, Marijas iel 13/8 (Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67
28 85 85, www.myfitness.lv. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at D-2, Kuu
24 (Radisson Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 0611 24. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
REAKTORS
QA-3, Rpniecbas 27, tel. (+371) 67 50 92 10, www.
reaktors.lv. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:30 - 19:00. A
SAUNAS
BALT PIRTS
Opened in 1908, the White Sauna is owned and operated
by an American-Latvian who happens to be a direct descendant of its founder. Both traditional Latvian and modern saunas are available as well as swimming pools, baths,
a caf and English-speaking staff. A new restaurant called
Tvaiks, or Steam, which is manned by a famous chef has
also opened its doors on the premises.QB-6, Tallinas 71,
tel. (+371) 67 27 17 33, www.baltapirts.lv. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Cashier open until one hour before closing.
SKATEPARKS
MONSTER ENERGY PARKS
This is the biggest indoor skatepark in the Baltics. Some
times are reserved only for skaters or BMX riders, but its
usually open to all.QKrou 13a, tel. (+371) 67 56 99 30.
Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. W
HOCKEY: DYNAMO RIGA

Spread out over a dozen time zones, the Russian Kontinental (sic) Hockey League or KHL also includes teams
from beyond the borders of the Russian Federation like
Dynamo Riga (Latvia), Jokerit Helsinki (Finland), Slovan
Bratislava (Slovakia) and Medveak Zagreb (Croatia)
to name a few. All told, 28 teams from seven nations
will compete in the 2014/2015 season. Many of the
KHL teams have adopted Soviet-era names, hence all
of the dynamos, locomotives and metallurgists. Dynamo Riga have had their ups and downs, but they
did win the first Nadezhda Cup (Cup of Hope), which
essentially means that they were the best of the worst
teams in the league. Home games take place at Arena
Riga, A-4, Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets
can be bought at the arena or at Bieu serviss (www.
bilesuserviss.lv) outlets. Tickets cost 5 - 86. Visit www.
dinamoriga.eu for more information. Photo by Nienke Bos
Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga

February
Date Time Game
1
17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. Slovan Bratislava
5
19:30 Dynamo Rga vs. Avtomobilist Yekaterinburg
7
17:00 Dynamo Rga vs. Chelyabinsk Traktor
Playoff games will follow if Dynamo Riga qualifies...
Sports & Leisure
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
SWIMMING POOLS
Latvia is a topographically challenged land that seldom

attracts enthusiasts of alpine endeavours like skiing. However, it usually has an excellent climate for snow making.
Although the nations highest peak rises only to a less than
majestic 311.6m above sea level, there are still plenty of
places where one can enjoy a quick downhill run.
LVU AKVAPARKS
Latvias largest indoor water park charges roughly 18 - 20/
adult for two hours of fun, children under six 3 - 5. A wave
pool, childrens pool, outdoor pool, water slides and other
attractions are all at your disposal as well as a poolside bar,
saunas and hot tubs.QLielupe (Jrmala), Viestura 24,
tel. (+371) 67 75 56 36, www.akvaparks.lv. Open 12:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. TALDC
OLYMPIC SPORTS CENTRE (OLIMPISKAIS
SPORTA CENTRS)
An Olympic-sized swimming pool is at your disposal every
day.QA-4, Grostonas 6b, tel. (+371) 67 38 77 10, www.
ocriga.lv. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00.
UZVARAS PARK CROSS COUNTRY TRACK

You can rent cross-country skis and boots and glide
around the snow-covered lawn just beyond the massive
Soviet Victory monument on the left bank of the RIver
Daugava. Take tram N10 from Grcinieku to either the
Slokas iela or Arkdijas parks stop.QE-2, Uzvaras bulvris
15, tel. (+371) 29 51 12 44, www.uzvarasparks.lv. Open
10:00 - 21:00. Ski and boot rental: adults 4.50/hour;
kids 3/hour.
AGARKALNS
One of the best-developed places Latvia has to offer,
agarkalns sports 14 slopes, t-bar ski lifts and two rope
tows, a snowboard park, a cross-country skiing trail, equipment rental as well as ski/snowboard instructors and a bar/
caf. Check out their site for weather conditions, a live web
cam and directions. Call ahead to reserve a babysitter for
its childrens room.QCsis, 90km from Rga, tel. (+371)
26 26 62 66, www.zagarkalns.lv. Open 13:00 - 22:00,
Fri 13:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Tickets: 8 for 2 hours, 10 for 5 hours or
15 for the day. ALKD
Ice skaters at the LIDO Leisure Center
M.Zaprauskis
85
Health & Lifestyle

Need to buy aspirin, visit a doctor, hire a lawyer or just visit
a day spa? Read on.
ACCOUNTANTS & LAWYERS

ECB
ECB is a full service accounting company that specialises
in serving non-residents in Latvia. It offers fully certified,
multilingual accountants and carries PI insurance for the
benefit and security of its clients.QF-2, Antonijas 4, tel.
(+371) 67 33 61 77, info@ecb.lv, www.ecb.lv.
SPIGULIS & KUKAINIS
This law firm specialises in real estate purchases, sales,
leasing and management and offers attorneys who are
licensed in both the United States and Latvia and are
completely fluent in English. The first consultation is free.
QH-2, Vau 3, tel. (+371) 28 39 03 46/(+371) 67 21 42
72, law@ska.lv, www.ska.lv.
CLEANERS
CITY CLEAN
Dry cleaners and laundromat.QC-5, Barona 52 (entrance
from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 27 24 71. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
NIVLA
Wash your own clothes or just drop them off and have the
staff do it for you. Also offer dry cleaning services.QC-4,
Lpla 21 (entrance from Akas), tel. (+371) 67 28 13
46. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
TAVEX
QB-3, Elizabetes 21A, tel. (+371) 67 20 55 33, www.
tavex.lv. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo shopping
centre). Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
DENTISTS
ADENTA
Professional English-speaking staff. Also available at the
weekend in emergencies.QA-4, Skanstes 13, tel. (+371)
67 33 93 00, www.adenta.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Time for snow at St. Peters Church
M.Zaprauskis
GENEALOGY
BALTICGEN
If youre interested in connecting with your Baltic roots
but you dont know where to begin, then contact Dr.
Aleksandrs Feigmanis, a researcher, historian and Doctor
of Theology who will research your family tree and drive
you to locations within Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia that
hold significance for your family such as ancestral homes
in the countryside. Qtel. (+371) 26 41 69 72, aleksgen@
balticgen.com, www.balticgen.com.
MEDICAL
ARS
English-speaking doctors. Listed opening hours are for
the trauma centre.QF-3, Skolas 5, tel. (+371) 67 20 10 07,
www.ars-med.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. For a 24-hour medical consultaion call its hotline
at tel. (+371) 67 20 10 03.
PHARMACIES
BENU APTIEKA
QB-6, Tallinas 57b, tel. (+371) 67 31 42 11, www.benu.
lv. Open 24hrs. Also at I-3, Audju 16 (Galerija Centrs),
tel. (+371) 67 01 80 59. Open 08:00 - 21:00; C-4, Brvbas
38, tel. (+371) 67 28 97 61. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
SAULES APTIEKA
QB-4, Brvbas 68, tel. (+371) 67 50 69 27, www.
saulesaptieka.lv. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 22:00. A
SPAS
ATTIRANCE SPA
This day spa in the city centre provides modern body and
facial treatments with special Latvian-made spa cosmetics and fragrances. A number of spa treatments such as
massages, aromatic baths and other popular rituals are
available for individuals or couples.QC-4, Trbatas 14, attirance.lv/lv_en/spa, www.attirancespa.lv. Open 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
ESPA RIGA
ESPA Riga is the largest five-star spa in the Baltic and Scandinavian region with a futuristic interior and atmosphere
that put one in mind of utopian societies found in science fiction films and novels. Hidden behind the beautiful facade of an historic art nouveau building, youll find
six modern floors of swimming pools, saunas, treatment
rooms, gyms and relaxation areas all of which include
cutting-edge design and technology. Luxurious changing
facilities are also at your disposal as well as a caf serving
healthy dishes and a shop selling the eco-friendly natural
ESPA products that are used in treatments at the spa.QF3, Bazncas 4a (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371)
67 71 52 22, www.espariga.com. Open 07:30 - 22:30.
AFKDC
Health & Lifestyle
TRANSLATIONS
SKRIVANEK LATVIA
QC-4, Brvbas 40 - 18, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 64, www.
skrivanek.com/lv.
YOGA
DAYA YOGA
This yoga studio offers something for everyone: yoga for
beginners, for professionals, for pregnant women and for
children, a wide variety of massage options, meditation
classes and even Indian dance lessons.QC-5, Stabu 51/2,
tel. (+371) 26 55 50 60, www.dayajoga.lv. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
SATYA YOGA
This hatha yoga studio in the city centre of Riga offers
group, private and childrens classes.QF-2, Antonijas 7
(room 5), tel. (+371) 22 08 24 68, www.satyayoga.lv.
Lions outside Latvias Parliament (Saeima)
FOREIGN EMBASSIES
For a complete list of foreign embassies and consulates
in Riga including opening hours visit www.mfa.gov.lv/
en/mission/?lv=0&type=1&riga=on.
CANADA
QB-4, Bazncas 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 81 39 45, riga@
international.gc.ca, www.latvia.gc.ca.
DENMARK
QH-1, Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 62 10, www.ambriga.
um.dk.
FINLAND
QB-3, Kalpaka bulv. 1, tel. (+371) 67 07 88 00, www.
finland.lv.
GERMANY
QH-3, Raia bulv. 13, tel. (+371) 67 08 51 00, www.
riga.diplo.de.
SWEDEN
QF-2, A.Pumpura 8, tel. (+371) 67 68 66 00, www.
swedenabroad.com/riga.
UNITED KINGDOM
QF-2, J.Alunna 5, tel. (+371) 67 77 47 00, ukinlatvia.
fco.gov.uk/en.
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
QSamnera Velsa 1, tel. (+371) 67 10 70 00, riga.
usembassy.gov.
M.Zaprauskis
87
Hotels
Riga really has it all when it comes to hotels. You can stay in
an ultra modern design hotel in the old town or a beautiful suite with private terrace and Jacuzzi if you dont mind
spending your hard-earned cash. Those travelling on a
budget can choose from plenty of B&Bs, hostels and even
a few low-cost hotels. Bear in mind that hotels are often
fully booked in July and around New Years Eve, so plan accordingly. Unless otherwise noted, breakfast and VAT are
included in the prices listed here.
SYMBOL KEY
CREAM OF THE CROP
I Fireplace
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection
HOTEL BERGS
Spacious, tasteful and luxurious. Pamper yourself in this
sleek, centrally located yet quiet hotel in the trendy Berga
Bazrs shopping plaza. Offering an array of amenities,
Hotel Bergs spacious interiors are a contrast of light and
dark, wood and linen. Discuss matters of grave importance in the top floor glass conference hall which seats
up to 120 people or unwind in its stylish restaurant - one
of Rigas best. Hotel Bergs is a member of the alliance of
Small Luxury Hotels of the World.QC-4, Elizabetes 83/85
(Berga Bazrs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 00, reservations@
hotelbergs.lv, www.hotelbergs.lv. 38 rooms (21 studio suites from 187, 7 apartment suites from 277, 6
loft suites from 277, 4 penthouse suites from 362).
PZHARUFGKDW
HOTEL NEIBURGS
This stylish design hotel is housed in one of Old Rigas most
beautiful art nouveau buildings. All 55 of its apartments
include a combination of modern minimalist dcor and
original elements like restored parquet floors that date back
to 1903. Kitchens, spacious rooms, huge plasma TVs, free
wireless internet access, bathrooms with bathtubs, slippers
and robes and excellent views all come standard. iHome
dual charging stereo FM clock radios with lightning dock
and USB charge/play for iOS devices are also included in the
price. Two-storey suites, accommodation with balconies
and an excellent restaurant are also available.QI-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55 22, www.neiburgs.com. 55
rooms (36 studio apartments 143 - 172, 4 studio deluxe
198, 8 senior suites 236, 7 two-storey suites 251 304). PJHAR6UFKDXW
RADISSON BLU RIDZENE HOTEL
A 1980s edifice that once served as accommodation for the
cream of Soviet society now houses one of Rigas most deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry wood decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and fitness complex
with 180 views. Naturally, all of its rooms include every
modern convenience including flat screen TVs and highspeed wireless internet access. Its ground floor restaurant
is located below a glass pyramid that affords great views of
the park across the street.QG-3, Reimersa 1, tel. (+371) 67
09 33 33, www.radissonblu.com/ridzenehotel-riga. 95
rooms (70 standard class 95, 13 business class 165, 8
superior class 135, 3 suites 395, 1 presidential suite
937). PZHAUFLGBKDW

Z Anti-allergy
O Casino
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
J Old town location 6 Pet-friendly

K Restaurant
D Sauna
X Smoking section
C Swimming pool
W Wifi
RC
Riga Card discounts
APARTHOTELS
RIGAAPARTMENT
RigaApartment offers 20 affordable apartments in one
building that are all available for short-term rental, so
you can stay for as little as one night or spend a whole
week here. The apartments are incredibly spacious
with high ceilings and hardwood floors and offer a
wide variety of amenities including comfortable furniture, full kitchens, washing machines, flat screen TVs
and at least one bathroom and bedroom (depending
on the apartment). Some of the flats also have fireplaces, but we preferred the cosy attic apartments.
A lift is also at your disposal and a Latvian restaurant
is available on the ground floor of the building.QC-5,
ertrdes 54, tel. (+371) 20 06 00 09, reservation@
rigaapartment.com, www.rigaapartment.com. 20
apartments (one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments 35 - 80). ZTALGW
RIGAAPARTMENT HOTEL
This charming five-storey building was completely
renovated in 2014 and is located in its own quiet private courtyard, which includes plenty of secure parking
and a childrens playground. The majority of its rooms
are 40m2 one-bedroom apartments equipped with
IKEA furniture, flat screen TVs with satellite channels,
fold-out couches, full kitchens, free wi-fi, washing machines and bathrooms with ionic hairdryers. Two of its
16 rooms offer yet another bedroom, but are similar in
style. A 24-hour reception area is available and you can
have breakfast and lunch in the cellar caf for an extra
fee. Great for families and guests who have cars. Airport
transfers available.QD-6, ertrdes 129 (entrance
from Valmieras 7), tel. (+371) 25 46 15 46, www.
RigaApartmentHotel.com. TALGBKW
Hotels
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UPMARKET
ALBERT HOTEL
Nearly everything in this huge 11-storey hotel revolves
around a common theme - Albert Einstein and his theories. Each of the 246 rooms includes a quote from the
father of modern science, the conference facilities are
named space, time and light, the do not disturb signs
simply say Im thinking and even the carpets include a
pattern of working atoms. All rooms are tastefully decorated with relaxing autumnal colours. QB-4, Dzirnavu 33,
tel. (+371) 67 33 17 17, www.alberthotel.lv. 246 rooms
(7 singles 74, 163 doubles 79, 10 triples 99, 12 suites
119, 62 business class 89 - 94, 2 disabled-friendly
74). PZHA6UGKW
BELLEVUE PARK HOTEL RIGA
This enormous hotel on the other side of the river offers
over 200 rooms, an upmarket 11th-floor restaurant and a
massive conference centre. All accommodation includes
cable TV, climate control, mini-bar, trouser press and
bathrooms with hairdryer and shower or tub. Higher end
rooms also include bathrobes, slippers, balconies and
floor to ceiling windows with views. The reception desk,
which is essentially a large aquarium, sets the tone for a
comfortable stay beside one of the citys largest parks.QE1, Slokas 1, tel. (+371) 67 06 90 00, www.hotelbellevue.
lv. 231 rooms (9 singles 40, 170 doubles 50, 3 suites
150, 14 apartments 70 - 80, 30 business class 60 70). PZHA6UFLKDXW
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HANZA HOTEL
Only a short walk from Rigas amazing Central Market
and the citys train and bus stations, the Hanza Hotel is
located on a historic cobble stone square with a beautiful octagonal wooden church at its centre. All rooms
are tastefully decorated in warm autumnal colours and
come standard with free wireless internet access, cable
TV, phone and bathrooms with heated tile floors and hair
dryers. A charming cellar pub is also at your disposal as
well as a good day spa.QE-4, Elijas 7, tel. (+371) 67 79
60 40, www.hanzahotel.lv. 80 rooms (22 singles from
30, 52 doubles from 35, 6 business class from 70).
HAULKDW RC
HOTEL GUTENBERGS
The only way that this luxury hotel could have a better
location would be if it were located inside Latvias largest cathedral instead of right next to it. All rooms offer
the usual amenities including satellite TV, writing desk,
wireless internet and spacious bathrooms, but we recommend the cosy, rustically furnished rooms in the section that was once a 17th-century warehouse. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, a small bronze
book is attached to each room key. Dont miss its cellar
restaurant, which offers an impressive and affordable
lunch buffet.QH-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 81
40 90, www.gutenbergs.lv. 38 rooms (14 singles 100,
17 doubles 114, 1 suite 170, 6 junior suites 140).
PJHA6ULKW RC
89
Hotels
MONIKA CENTRUM HOTEL
This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated
neo-Gothic building built in 1883, offers spacious rooms
with satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, internet
access and private bathrooms with bathtub and bidet
as well as a bar, restaurant, modern conference facilities
and a fitness centre. Many of the rooms also include balconies with excellent views of the park and surrounding
19th-century architecture. Monika also offers incredible
suites with original decorative artwork and four-poster
beds.QB-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371) 67 03 19 00, www.
centrumhotels.com. 80 rooms (12 singles 76, 50 doubles 86, 3 suites 130, 1 apartment 150, 14 junior
suites 96). PHAR6UFKDXW
RADISSON BLU DAUGAVA HOTEL
Located on the left bank of the River Daugava, many of its
rooms offer incredible views of Old Riga across the water.
Singles and doubles are spacious and include cable TV,
mini-bar and private bathrooms. Business class rooms or
suites are more spacious and include a few extra perks.
A pool is available as well as conference rooms and a restaurant.QD-2, Kuu 24, tel. (+371) 67 06 11 11, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-riga. 356 rooms (97 singles from
60, 171 doubles from 80, 51 business class from 200,
23 junior suites from 23, 2 suites from 650, 12 apartments from 400). PHA6UFKDXCW
RADISSON BLU ELIZABETE HOTEL
Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly stylish
hotel is located opposite Rigas most beautiful park a short
walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spacious rooms
includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, large bathrooms and many other four-star amenities as well as views
of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness centre, a hip
cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T. are also at your
disposal and an ice machine is located on each floor.QC-4,
Elizabetes 73, tel. (+371) 67 78 55 55, www.radissonblu.
com/elizabetehotel-riga. 228 rooms (186 standard class
99, 38 business class 154, 3 suites 299, 1 two-room
suite 399). PZHAUFLGBKDW
RADISSON BLU HOTEL LATVIJA
This skyscraper has been transformed into one of Latvias
premier hotels. All rooms include phone, mini-bar, hair dryer, climate control and satellite TV. Executive class suites are
more spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy
and smoke-free accommodation is also at your disposal,
as well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and
room service, not to mention a new wing with dozens of
shops, gourmet food shop and a caf. A five-star spa, ESPA
Riga, with six floors of pools, fitness equipment and saunas
is connected to the hotel. Dont miss the view from the
26th-floor Skyline Bar.QC-4, Elizabetes 55, tel. (+371) 67
77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/latvijahotel-riga. 571
rooms (212 standard class 95, 317 superior class 135,
38 business class 175, 3 suites 345, 1 presidential suite
540). PZOTHAUFGKDCW
TALLINK HOTEL RIGA

This stylish hotel located a short walk from Old Riga was
built from the ground up in 2010. You can expect modern
dcor in all of its 256 rooms, which include brown, white
and silver colours, flat screen TVs, free wireless internet
access, safe, phone and other 4-star amenities as well as
bathrooms with heated tile floors and huge showerheads.
A restaurant, lobby bar, caf, cigar room and beauty salon are also available and kids are given colouring books
and crayons while their parents check in. A morning sauna
is also included in the price and underground parking is
available.QD-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60,
www.hotels.tallink.com. 256 rooms (21 singles 70,
227 doubles 77, 3 suites 170, 5 junior suites 114).
PZHAUFKDXW
WELLTON CENTRA HOTEL
Modern and stylish with minimalist interior design,
the Wellton Centra Hotel offers an excellent location
and spacious rooms with satellite TV, mini-bar, phone,
climate control, wireless internet access, private bathrooms with bathtubs and excellent views of the old
towns characteristic red-tiled roofs. Suites have the
added benefit of huge plasma TVs, even more space
and bathrobes.QJ-2, Audju 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 32
06, www.wellton.com. 27 rooms (10 doubles 80,
5 suites 120, 5 junior suites 110, 7 superior 90).
PJAGW
WELLTON CENTRUM HOTEL & SPA
When one walks into the grand lobby of this design hotel theyre immediately drawn to the huge aquariums
that separate the reception area from the stylish, yet affordable restaurant. All rooms are decorated in a similar
fashion with beige and grey tones and light wooden
furnishings and amenities include flat screen TVs, minibar, safe, coffee/tea sets, free wi-fi, ironing boards, spacious bathrooms and climate control, not to mention
bathrobes on each bed. A huge medieval wall has been
successfully integrated into the design of some of the
hallways and a spa centre including a swimming pool
is available in the basement.QI-3, Kalju 33, tel. (+371)
67 13 06 70, www.wellton.com. 120 rooms (5 singles
70 - 75, 97 doubles 80 - 85, 2 triples 100 - 110, 1
junior suites 120 - 130, 15 superior rooms 90 - 95).
PJA6GKDCW
COUNTRY HOLIDAYS
LAUKU CEOTJS (COUNTRY TRAVELLER)
The Country Traveller offers B&Bs and holiday homes
outside of Riga. Check out its comprehensive website
to find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride
horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna or
enjoy a regal stay in an ancient castle. You can search by
region, type of accommodation, amenities offered and
other parameters.Qwww.celotajs.lv/en
Hotels
WELLTON ELEFANT HOTEL

If the gold elephant on the pedestal in the courtyard didnt
get youre attention, the 600kg, 6m-high white elephant
in the bar/reception area certainly will. This sleek, modern glass and steel hotel offers rooms with either light or
dark wallpaper and furniture, depending on the floor, and
all include floor to ceiling windows, big flat screen TVs,
free wireless internet, mini-bar, complimentary coffee/
tea sets, safe and phone. A small spa centre, a restaurant
and underground parking are also available.Take bus
N22 to the RMR (from the airport) or Candera iela (from
the centre) stop.QKalnciema 90, tel. (+371) 67 22 55
60, www.wellton.com. 157 rooms (1 single 40 - 45,
122 doubles 40 - 55, 8 triples 55 - 65, 13 suites 55
- 65, 1 apartment 100 - 110, 11 junior suites 50 - 60).
PHA6UFGKW
WELLTON GERTRUDE HOTEL
Located in a residential neighbourhood in the city centre, this large hotel offers nearly 80 rooms that include
flat screen satellite TVs, phone, writing desk, free wireless
internet access, mini-bar, climate control, safe and private
bathrooms with hair dryers and complimentary toiletries.
The interiors are clean and attractive and a conference
room is also available as well as a breakfast room.QC-5,
Gertrudes 70, tel. (+371) 67 79 16 03, www.wellton.
com. 79 rooms (7 singles 50 - 55, 50 doubles 60 - 65,
3 triples 80 - 85, 6 suites 90 - 95, 3 junior suites 80 85, 10 superior rooms 70 - 75). PHA6GKW
WELLTON OLD RIGA PALACE HOTEL
This elegant Old Riga hotel offers old world atmosphere
with wood panelling, crystal chandeliers and the occasional piece of antique furniture. Rooms are similar in style
with light walls and red carpeting and include such amenities as satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini-bar, coffee/
tea sets and private bathrooms. Superior rooms are more
spacious and some even include balconies. A bar, fitness
centre and a lobby area with both free wireless internet
access as well as three computer workstations are also
available.QJ-2, Minsterejas 8/10, tel. (+371) 67 55 97 90,
www.wellton.com. 100 rooms (12 singles 40 - 50, 71
doubles 50 - 60, 5 triples 65 - 75, 1 junior suites 80 90, 11 business doubles 70 - 80). PJHA6F
GKDW
WELLTON TERRACE DESIGN HOTEL

This stylish design hotel is spread out across two historic
buildings that surround a common courtyard. Each of its
40 rooms is slightly different in style, but most offer modern grey minimalist interiors with at least one funky design
element, usually a lamp, in a bold colour to liven things up.
QB-3, Dzirnavu 2, tel. (+371) 67 82 82 87, www.wellton.
com. 40 rooms (4 singles 40 - 45, 30 doubles 50 - 60,
4 triples 55 - 65, 1 apartment 60 - 75, 1 junior suites
60 - 70). PZHA6GKW
MID-RANGE
HOTEL FELICIA
Situated in a quiet neighbourhood in the Purvciems district of Riga, the rooms of this modern complex look like
they were taken straight out of a furniture show room.
Phone, flat screen TVs with satellite channels, private
bathrooms, mini-bar and climate control are all at your
disposal as well as a bar and restaurant. If youd like to relax you can also take advantage of the downstairs sauna
and the small, yet ample swimming pool. A good option
for families and guests who have their own car. You can
also take trolleybus N11 or 18 from the Central Station to
the nijas iela stop.QStirnu iela 32b, tel. (+371) 67 59 99
42, www.hotelfelicia.com. 19 rooms (5 singles 25 - 35,
12 doubles 45 - 85, 1 suite 100, 1 junior suites 85).
PHA6LKDXCW
IBIS STYLES RIGA
This high-rise building has been transformed from an ageing hotel into modern, dare we say, stylish accommodation only a short tram ride from the city centre and Old
Riga. All of its rooms are tastefully decorated in neutral
beige tones with the occasional splash of colour and include climate control, flat screen TVs, free wi-fi, phone and
bathrooms with bathtubs and hair dryers. Superior and
deluxe rooms are similar, but with much more space and
sofas. The Colombo restaurant on the 12th floor provides
unparalleled views of the city. Take tram N5 or 9 to the
Ptersalas iela stop and walk north up Katrnas to the hotel.
QA-3, Katrnas dambis 27, tel. (+371) 67 32 31 30, www.
ibis.com. 76 rooms (8 singles from 46, 48 standard
twin / double from 53, 15 superior from 67, 5 suites
from 139). PZTHAUFLGKW
91
Hotels
RIGA AIRPORT HOTEL ABC
Although this place is halfway between the airport and
the centre, its worth the drive if youre looking for decent accommodation at a good price. All rooms have
modern bathrooms with showers, light coloured interiors with wooden furniture, TV, mini-bar, telephone
and internet as well as access to a sauna and conference room. During the summer a proper pool is also
available, as well as an area for hooking up your camper
if youre travelling with an RV.Qamptera 139a, tel.
(+371) 67 89 27 28, www.hotelabc.lv. 60 rooms (11
singles 57, 36 doubles 71, 10 triples 100, 1 suite
114, 1 apartment 141, 1 junior suite 79). HA
R6UFLKDC RC
TIA HOTEL
This three-star hotel offers comfortable accommodation
in the city centre and its 49 rooms face a quiet courtyard
so you dont have to worry about noise. With the exception of the upmarket suites on the top floor, all rooms are
decorated in a similar style with bright pastel colours,
wood furnishings designed by local craftsmen, cable TV,
phone, safe, mini-bar and private bathrooms with showers and hair dryers. We, however, prefer the rooms on the
sixth floor each of which has its own balcony at no extra
cost. An internet terminal at reception, caf/bar and free
wi-fi are also available.QB-4, Valdemra 63, tel. (+371)
67 33 39 18, www.hoteltia.lv. 49 rooms (6 singles 45,
7 doubles 52, 3 triples 70, 2 suites 75, 31 twin 52).
HALGKW RC
BED & BREAKFAST

B&B KRISJANIS & GERTRUDE
Not unlike a typical British B&B, this hotel only offers five
rooms, but each is decorated in a different fashion and
provides cable TV, free wireless internet access, modern
bathrooms, coffee/tea set and a cosy atmosphere that
one would expect from a home away from home. A
common room is also available with a kitchenette and
a computer with internet access.QC-5, Barona 39-1
(entrance from ertrdes), tel. (+371) 67 50 66 04,
fax (+371) 67 50 66 03, reservation@kg.lv, www.kg.lv.
5 rooms (2 singles 36, 2 doubles 46, 1 triple 56).
A6GW
The Blacheads House and St. Peters Church
M.Zaprauskis
JAKOB LENZ GUESTHOUSE

This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood
is only a stones throw from the citys most impressive
Art Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious
rooms, many with private bathrooms, within renovated apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is also
available as well as a communal computer with internet access or free wireless in rooms. You can also take
advantage of its laundry service and private parking in
the courtyard. QB-3, Lenu 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 33 43,
info@lenz.lv, www.guesthouselenz.lv. 28 rooms (2
singles from 17, 20 doubles from 20, 2 triples from
25, 4 family rooms from 40). A6W
BUDGET
HOTEL LIENE
Liene may be difficult to find and a little far from the
main tourist attractions, but its prices more than make
up for these deficiencies. Walk into the courtyard and
through the door on the left and youll discover a cosy
banquet hall and bar as well as a sauna with a huge
chest-high wooden tub for soaking yourself after a session of sweating. Rooms are small, but comfortable and
renovated with cable TV, writing desk and private bathroom with shower. The apartments also have kitchenettes.QC-6, Avotu 75, tel. (+371) 67 31 47 67, www.
lathotel.lv. 19 rooms (4 singles 29, 11 doubles 33
- 36, 1 triple 33, 3 10-bed dorms 100). Breakfast:
4. HALGKDW RC
SKANSTE
Not being right in the city centre comes with its advantages. Peace and quiet, fresh air, green views, open space
and the closest proximity of any hotel to Arena Riga, the
best venue for concerts and sporting events in the city.
Skanste isnt at the height of fashion, but doesnt try to
be. The recipe here is genuine country-style friendliness
and straightforward comfort in a family environment. Disabled guests also welcome.QA-4, Skanstes 9, tel. (+371)
67 51 99 23, www.hotelskanste.lv. 34 rooms (8 singles
27, 18 doubles 41, 6 triples 56, 2 junior suites 64).
HA6ULGKW
HOSTELS
CENTRAL HOSTEL
Just look for the only orange wooden house on the corner
(perhaps the only one in Riga). Rooms are somewhat spacious and include bright coloured interiors. Modern shared
toilets and showers are located in the hallway and a small
kitchen and common room with TV, CD player and games
are also at your disposal. Breakfast, a smoking room with
hookahs, free internet access and a book exchange corner
are also available. A grocery store is located on the ground
floor.QD-5, E. Birznieka-Upa 20, tel. (+371) 22 32 26
63, reception@centralhostel.lv, www.centralhostel.lv.
17 rooms (2 singles 16 - 17, 13 doubles 17- 21, 1 triple
24 - 26, 1 apartment 42 - 45). A6LW
Hotels
DOMA HOSTEL
Spread out across four floors of an historic Old Riga building,
this cosy hostel offers dorms with incredibly high ceilings
on the second floor or more intimate rooms on the third
and fourth floors that include original oak beams and even
the remnants of an antique pulley system once used to lift
goods to the attic in medieval times. Each floor has its own
bathrooms and toilets as well as a small kitchenette with a
refrigerator, sink and a microwave. Many of its rooms also
include excellent views of Town Hall Square and the River
Daugava. Free wi-fi is included and theres no curfew.QI-2,
Maz Jaunavu 8, tel. (+371) 67 21 31 01, www.domahostel.
lv. 8 rooms (1 single 28, 2 doubles 36, 4 triples 45, 1
apartment 68). Breakfast: 5. PA6W
RIGA HOSTEL
Located above a McDonalds, youll never be far from
a quick meal or coffee even at midnight at this modern,
comfortable hostel. Prices for beds are affordable and
the location near the train station, bus terminal and Old
Riga couldnt be more convenient. A kitchen is available if
youd like to do your own cooking and a relaxation room
is also at your disposal where you can watch TV or a DVD,
surf the net for free or smoke a hookah. No curfew.QD-4,
Merea 1 (4th floor), tel. (+371) 22 33 78 84, reception@
rigahostel.com.lv, www.rigahostel.com.lv. 9 rooms (1
single 17, 8 doubles 19). A6W
RIGA OLD TOWN HOSTEL
The Aussie owners of this hip hostel made it clear to us that
the place is meant to be a fun, safe place to stay in Old Riga
for anyone who can appreciate comfortable beds, great
atmosphere and one of the best pubs in the city. In fact,
three floors of the building are occupied by drinking space
and the top three floors house dorm rooms with light blue
walls and red bunk beds with individual lighting and storage lockers. The hostel lacks a kitchen, but all guests can
get a free breakfast beer at the bar if they wake up before 12:00.QI-3, Vau 43, tel. (+371) 67 22 34 06, www.
rigaoldtownhostel.lv. JAGW
THE NAUGHTY SQUIRREL BACKPACKERS
The walls are cluttered with postcards, a dozen litre mugs
hang temptingly above a bar and youth of all nationalities
are in constant motion... and thats just the reception area.
Walk down hallways covered in graffiti by local street artists to find singles, family rooms and dorms each of which
includes private lockers and even speakers that can be
plugged into your iPod. Shared toilets and showers, a full
kitchen and a communal room with cable TV, a DVD player
and three free computers are also available here at the place
that Hostelworld.com rated the 9th best hostel in the world!
It also offers a wide range of tours and activities like bungee
jumping and shooting AK-47s.QI-3, Kalju 50, tel. (+371)
67 22 00 73/(+371) 26 46 12 48, www.thenaughtysquirrel.
com. 20 rooms (4 doubles 46, 3 triples 50, 2 four-bed
dorms 10 - 17/person, 4 six-bed dorms 12 - 14/person,
4 eight-bed dorms 11 - 13/person, 2 ensuite 43 - 50).
Breakfast not included. JAW
APARTMENT RENTAL
AGENCY LILIJA PLUS
Great choice of renovated apartments in Old Riga and
the city centre from studio to four-bedroom apartments.
Airport transfer, cleaning services and long-term rentals
also available. Professional English-speaking staff.QI-3,
Rdzenes 25, tel. (+371) 67 21 60 40/(+371) 29 23 81 06,
fax (+371) 67 21 60 54, lila@latnet.lv, www.lilarealty.lv.
AGENCY STES LATVIA
Furnished, renovated apartments in or near Old Riga for
short and long-term rental. .QH-1, Bskapa 6, tel. (+371)
26 44 85 10, www.stes.lv.
Not all graffiti has to be ugly, especially on Lpla iela
MZ
93
Old Riga map
Index
Agency Lilija Plus
93
genskalns Market
27
genskalns Water Tower 27
Albert Hotel
89
Alus arsenls
48
Apsara 53
Aperon 33
Aqua Luna
54
Aragats 32
Arcadia Park
27
Art Caf Sienna
38
Art Nouveau architecture 70
Aussie Backpackers Pub 66
Austra 42
Bnzis 66
Bastion Hill
75
B-Brs 62
B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude 92
Bellevue Park Hotel Riga 89
Bergs Restaurant
37, 54
Bibliotka No 1 Restorns 54
Bon Vivant
66
Brlis 66
Buddha 40
Burger Corner
36
Burger Story
36
Cabo Cafe
56
Cadets de Gascogne
33
Caf LChaim
47
Castle of Light - National
Library 27
Cat House
76
Central Hostel
92
Central Market
76
etri Balti Krekli
64
Charlestons 36
Charlie Pizza
51
China Garden
40
Chomsky 56
Ciemakukulis 28
Cita Puse
56
Coco Loco
62
Colombo 42
Cook Door
46
Coyote Fly
61
Cuba Caf
62
C.U.T. 42
Delicio 37
Depo 61
DM Bar Riga
56
Dipro 54
Doma Hostel
93
Donegans Pub
66
Dvine 68
EcoCatering Telpa
51
Esplanade Park
75
Eztis migl
56
Fazenda 28
Fire-Fighting Museum 72
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs 48, 65

Food Box
46
Freedom Monument 79
Gan Bei
32, 46
Garage 43
Gastronome 52
Gauja 57
Get Smart Caf
57
Golden 64
Great & Small Guild Halls 76
Haapuri 42
Hanza Hotel
89
HHC 57
Himalaju-zijas virtuve 32
HOTE 28
Hotel Bergs
88
Hotel Felicia
91
Hotel Gutenbergs
89
Hotel Liene
92
Hotel Neiburgs
88
House of Blackheads 76
ibis Styles Riga
91
I love you
57
Index Caf
37
Indian Raja
42
Innocent Caf
38
Jakob Lenz Guesthouse 92
Jautr lapsa
58
Jews in Latvia Museum 72
Jockey Club
67
Kafka kafija
39
Kama 53
Key to Riga
48
KGB Victims Memorial 79
Kiwi Bar
51, 58
KKC 58
Klondaika
54, 56, 60, 67
Kolonde. Our Stories 55
Kotai 54
Krogs Aptieka
58
Kruovice Sporta brs 67
La Belle poque
68
Labi 67
Labietis 60
La Casa Del Habano
62
Laima Chocolate Museum 72
Laima Clock
76
La Rocca Revolution
61
Lste 50
Latvian Ethnographic
Museum 70
Latvian National Opera 76
Latvian Photography
Museum 72
Latvian Railway Museum 27
Latvian Riflemen
Monument 79
Lauku Ceotjs
90
Lauvas Nams
65
Leningrad 58
LIDO AIRPORT
48
LIDO ALUS STA
48
Lidojo Varde
67
LIDO KRIEVU STA
52
LIDO LEISURE CENTER 48
LIDO SPICE
48
LIDO VRMANTIS 37, 48
Limonde 58
Live Riga Tourist Info
Centres 10
Madride 52
Mai Tai
61
Mja 28
Mra 39
Mrtia beereja
33
Meating Place
47
Meln piektdiena
65
Mercato 50
MiiT 40
Mio 43
Moloneys Pub
67
Monika Centrum Hotel 90
M Cafe
39
Mene 28
Museum of Decorative Arts
& Design
73
Museum of Pharmacy 73
Museum of Rigas History
and Navigation
74
Museum of Romans Suta
and Aleksandra Becova 74
Museum of War
74
Mute 43
MUUSU 44
Nabaklab 62
Naples 45
Natural History Museum of
Latvia 74
NB 56
Neiburgs 55
Nometne 28
Old City Walls & Swedish
Gate 77
Old Shanghai
40
Old St. Gertrudes Church 70
Olive Oil Trading Co
45
Olympic Voodoo Casino 60
Omas briljants
58
Orthodox Cathedral
70
Osriss
37, 38
Paddy Whelans Irish Pub

45, 67, 68
Paul Stradin Museum of the
History of Medicine
74
Pelmei XL
40
Pieci Vilki
60
Pie Kristapa Kunga
50
Piens 62
OLD RIGA STREET REGISTER

11. novembra krastmala
I-1/J-2
13. janvra
I/J-3
Akl H-1
Akmens tilts
J-1
Alberta laukums I-3
Aldaru H-2
Alksnja I-2
Alunna F-2
Amatu H-2
Angliku H-1
Arsenla H-1
Aspazijas bulv. H/I-3
Atgrieu H-1
Audju I-2/3
Barona H-3
Basteja bv. (Z.A.
Meierovica) G/H-2
Bskapa gte
I-1
Brvbas G/H-3
Citadeles F/G-1
Doma laukums H-1
Elizabetes F-3
Freedom Mon. H-3
Gleznotju H/I-2
Grcinieku 1/2
Herdera lauk.
H-1
Inenieru H-3
Ja I-2
Ja sta
I-2
Jaunavu H/I-2
Jauniela H/I-1
Jkaba G/H-1
Jkaba lauk.
G-1
Jeruzalemes F-3
Kalju I-2/3
Kau H/I-2
Kalpaka bv.
G-2/3
niu H-2
Klostera H-1
Konventa Sta
I-2
Krmu I-1/2
Kronvalda bv. F/G-1
Kungu I-2
Laima clock
H-2
Laipu H-2
Lvu laukums
H-2
Mrstau I/J-2
Maz Miesnieku H-1
Maz Montu H/I-2
Maz Muzeja
H-1
Maz Pils
H-1
Maz Smilu
H-2
Maz Troku
H-1
Meistaru H-2
Merea G/H-3
Miesnieku H-1
PinUp Bar
63
Piramda 55
Pizza Lul
46, 51, 65
Planeta 46
Prego 44
Pulkvedim Neviens
Neraksta 62
Queens Public House 67
Radisson Blu Daugava
Hotel 90
Radisson Blu Elizabete
Hotel 90
Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija 90
Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel
88
Rasols 38
Reiz Odes
54
Restaurant Bellevue
55
Restaurant Elements 44
Restorcija 67
Ribs & Rock
36
Riga Airport Hotel ABC 92
RigaApartment 88
RigaApartment Hotel 88
Riga Art Nouveau Museum
74
Riga Aviation Museum 79
Riga Bourse Art Museum 74
Riga Castle
77
Riga Cathedral
70
Riga Church of Jesus 71
Riga Hostel
93
Riga National Zoo
77
Riga Old Town Hostel 93
Riga Out There
65, 79
Rga Porcelain Museum 75
Riviera 50
Rockabilly House
51
Roland Statue
79
Rozengrls 50
Runcis 68
Safie Turkish Bakery
33
Sale & Pepe Kaf
45
aliki Mangaos
50, 52
S. Brevinga Alus Brs 68
efpavrs Vilhelms
40
Shot Caf
60
Sites un dilltes
52
Sirmais & Dreibants
38
Skanste 92
Skyline Bar
63
Small Pizza
51
Sokrats 44
Soraksans 46
Soviet Victory Monument 28
Spa Caf
38
Spot Kaf
60
St. Alexander Nevsky
Orthodox Church
71
Stargorod 41
Steiku Haoss
53
St. James Cathedral
71
St. Johns
71
St. Peters Church
70
Street Burgers
37
Street Fries Kitchen
42
Subway 42
Sun Museum
75
Sveiks, veik!
41
Synagogue 72
Taka 60
Tallink Hotel Riga
90
Tequila Boom
63
Tvocis Vaa
52
Tex Mex Republic
54
T.G.I.Fridays 32
The Left Door Bar
63
The Lodge
41
The Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia 70
The Naughty Squirrel
Backpackers 93
TIA Hotel
92
Tinto 68
Tokyo City
46
Travel 2 Riga
65
Travel2Riga 79
Trusis Kafe
38
TV & Radio Tower
78
Uzbegims 40
Vairk Saules
29, 44, 46
Valmiermuias alus
48
Varzoba 40
Vest 60
Victory Pub
68
Viesistaba Vintage
44
Vna Studija
69
Vinilbrs 29
Vns ar odziu
69
Warehouse District
78
Wellton Centra Hotel 90
Wellton Centrum Hotel 90
Wellton Elefant Hotel 91
Wellton Gertrude Hotel 91
Wellton Old Riga Palace
Hotel 91
Wellton Terrace Design
Hotel 91
Woki Toki
40
Wok to Walk
32
Wooden Riga
78
XIII 64
YOLO 64
anna Cafe
39
Zapte 68
Ze Donats
41
Zelta boulinga centrs 56
Zoste 44
Minsterejas J-2
Mucenieku H-2
Muitas G-1
Mku H-1
Palasta I-1
Pasta J-2
Peitavas I-2
Peldu I-2
Pterbazncas I-2
Pils H-1
Pils laukums
H-1
Prgas J-3
Pumpura F-2
Radio I-3
Raia bulvris G-2/H-3
Rtslaukums I-1/2
Reimersa G-2
Rdzenes I-3
Rozena H-1
Skru I-2
u H-2
Smilu H-1/2
Strlnieku laukums I-1
Tetra I-2/3
Tirgou H/I-2
Tora G-1/H-2
Troku H-2
densvada I-2
Vgnera H/I-2
Valdemra G-1/F-2/3
Vau H-2/I-3
Vecpilstas I-3
Vingrotju F-2
Z.A. Meierovica
(Basteja bulvris)
G/H-2
Zirgu H-2
Bus Station
J-3
Riga Info Centre I-2
Freedom
Monument H-3

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The Left Bank

Experience the other

Gossip and rants from the editor

Arrival & Getting Around

How to get to your hotel

Getting to grips with Riga

Culture & Events 18

Restaurants & Cafs

From pork knuckle to sushi

Bars, pubs and clubs

Beds for backpackers and business executives

List of small features

Museums, churches and the like

Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres

Sports & Leisure

Bowling alleys, swimming pools and much more

Health & Lifestyle

Spas, doctors and other useful information

Maps & Index

Old Riga map

February - March 2015

Sales & Circulation

This issues cover features the illuminated railway bridge that

8 Riga In Your Pocket

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Arriving & Getting Around

Share the experience

Get in touch with the In Your Pocket team and other

Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides

Arriving & Getting Around

AIRPORT INQUIRIES SERVICE

Arriving & Getting Around

February - March 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

* Lux Express ** ECOLINES

BUS STATION (AUTOOSTA)

Arriving & Getting Around

CENTRAL STATION (CENTRL STACIJA)

TOURS & TRAVEL

Snowy evening at the Central Station

February - March 2015

The river walk at the Speri warehouse district

16 Riga In Your Pocket

Frosty figures on the Freedom Monument

Culture & Events

CLUBS & OTHER VENUES

18 Riga In Your Pocket

MUSIC & EVENTS

Culture & Events

Emir Kusturica and the No

Adnre & Alicija. Sounds

Ottmar Liebert (Germany).

February - March 2015

Culture & Events

The Sound of Music.

20 Riga In Your Pocket

An opera or ballet performance at the Latvian National Opera is one

Sleeping Beauty, ballet,

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Culture & Events

22 Riga In Your Pocket

Culture & Events