Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Men's Grooming
France
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Men's Grooming
France
In 2009, mens grooming sales reached EUR994 million, up almost 2% in current value terms from 2008.
The economic crisis reduced consumer purchasing power. As a result, male consumers focused their
spending mainly on hygiene and body care.
The best-performing category in 2009 was mens deodorants with 5% value growth
The sophistication and efficiency strongly present in new innovations caused a slight increase in unit price.
Procter & Gamble France SNC remained leader in 2009 despite a slight decrease in its value share to 30%.
Mens grooming sales are predicted to grow by 4% in constant value terms between 2009 and 2014.
TRENDS
Men continued to look after themselves in 2009 but they focused on core products due to the difficult
economic climate. They favoured useful products such as bath and shower products and deodorants rather
than skin care products. Despite the slowdown, men have increasingly turned to skin care mainly via
shaving, hence the importance of manufacturers building a synergy between mens grooming products.
In 2009, mens grooming sales steadily increased, but for the first time, the increase was slower than the
review period average. Given reduced consumer purchasing power due to the economic crisis and the high
price of recent innovative products, marketers noticed a rationalisation phenomenon. Men typically used a
product completely before buying another one.
In 2009, in contrast to 2008, mens deodorants registered the fastest growth, up 5% in current value terms
and 3% in volume terms. This success was explained by three reasons. Firstly, applying deodorants has
become a routine act, even in crisis time, according to one Nivea brand manager. In addition, male
consumers remain a segment with potential, as around 83% of French men regularly use a deodorant on a
daily basis and only 25% use one many times per day. Finally, mens deodorants benefited from the
favourable climatic conditions during the first half of 2009.
Men's bath and shower was the second most successful category in 2009. It grew by around 4% in current
value terms and 2% in volume terms in 2009. The favourable weather with warm temperatures during the
first half of 2009 brought dynamism to sales of mens bath and shower products. Moreover, attracted by
this dynamsim some non male-specific brands established themselves by introducing new ranges, widely
supported by advertising campaigns.
Mens hair care achieved growth of almost 4% in current value terms in 2009 thanks to several innovations
such as K pour Karit from Laboratoire Ariland and Azzaro SkinForce for Men from Loris Azzaro.
Manufacturers tried to segment responding to specific needs (anti-dandruff, hair loss, white hair, etc.),
communicating via main media and/or the Internet. Volume sales suffered from the rationalisation
phenomenon due to the economic crisis, with a slight increase of just under 2% in 2009.
Mens skin care, one of the best-performing categories in 2008, suffered a slight loss in value and
substantially collapsed by 5% in volume terms in 2009. Firstly, their high-cost image prompted French men
to turn away. Secondly, despite 38% using face cream daily and 35% using cleaning products daily, some
social taboos still exist in mens minds. Skin care is still judged too feminine, too complex to understand
and takes too much time to carry out.
In mens shaving, the three categories (pre-shave, post-shave, and razors and blades) continued to suffer
decline. On the one hand, the first two categories decreased by 2% each in current value terms. Indeed, men
moved away from classic alcohol-based lotions in favour of facial moisturisers and/or creams. On the other
hand, sales of mens razors and blades remained largely constant in value terms thanks to the high value
growth, around 10%, of triple-bladed razors, and the introduction of new systems. Manufacturers such as
Gillette France SA and Wilkinson Sword SA benefited from the success of their disposable razors through
launching a version with a battery. However, this category suffered a 5% loss in volume terms due to the
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Men's Grooming
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long life-cycle of such products and the growing success of electric shavers. In addition, 54% of men used
to shave daily in 1999 whereas in 2007, only 42% of men performed a daily shave; many preferred to give
their skin a rest. This social trend was further emphasised by the fashion trend, particularly among young
men, for three-day beard growth.
The levels of sophistication expected by consumers and introduced by manufacturers have increased unit
prices, particularly in systems razors and blades. However, the rationalisation phenomenon due to the
economic crisis impacted each category and reduced volume sales.
Mass brands continue to hold the upper hand in mens grooming thanks to significant financial resources of
manufacturers to market their innovations. Brand loyalty appears to be higher among men than women,
particularly in shaving and shower products.
In 2009, although 80% of men take care of themselves with simple and effective products without turning
to anti-ageing creams, some 20% expect more sophistication with brands and products coming from the
female universe, according to one leading industry player. Through their lastest mens skin cares launches,
leaders LOral SA and Beiersdorf SA proved that products originally developed for women could easily
cross the gender divide. Thus, Beiersdorf SA added to its Nivea for Men Q10 skin care range, an anti-rings
roll-on for the eyes and a post-shaving balm with an energising and calming effect; similar products having
already enjoyed considerable success with women. LOral SA extended its Men Expert Hydra Energetic
products line with a post-shaving balm, and created a new products line Men Expert Hydra Sensitive. While
the first product tried to meet the requirements of young male professionals with their fast-paced lifestyles
by helping skin recovery after late nights, the second product was intended to combat skin soreness during
shaving.
Brands present in chemists/pharmacies also extended their mens skin care lines. Some players focused on
shaving such as La Roche-Posay and Ducray Homme, while some introduced anti-ageing creams and antiwrinkle creams such as Vichy with LiftActiv and Klorane with Cible Homme.
In 2009, systems remains the leading format in mens razors and blades with 71% of value sales, at the
expense of disposables. This was explained by a higher level of product innovation and the better quality of
shaving provided by systems products. Players such as Procter & Gamble France SNC extended its Fusion
range introducing in 2009 a new system Gillette Fusion Phenom and Gillette Fusion Phenom (+ Power), the
latter with a battery. Both claimed to reduce skin soreness during shaving, supported by strong media
coverage. Wilkinson Quattro Pro, launched in 2009 by Wilkinson Sword SA, confirmed the trend.
However, the impressive performance of Gillette Fusion suddenly slowed in 2008 and even waned in 2009.
The multiplication of blades in systems, battery-operated systems and the development of increasingly
sophisticated disposable razors did not always pay off during the economic crisis of 2008-2009. In addition,
men tend to make refills last longer not only in order to save money but also because heads are more
effective for longer periods of time. This benefited disposables which enjoyed slight progression in current
value terms in 2009.
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
Well ahead of its rivals, Procter & Gamble France SNC led mens grooming in 2009 thanks to its strength
in mens shaving. It reinforced Gillette Fusions success by launching a version with a battery named
Gillette Fusion Phenom (+ Power).
Unilever France SA, with a share of almost 12% in 2009, experienced the biggest growth, with value sales
up 10% on 2008. Indeed, buying Sara Lee, Unilever has expanded its portfolio of toiletries brands adding
Williams, Sanex For Men to Axe, Rexona for Men, Dove Care Men and Brut. In addition to successful
innovations introduced in shaving with Williams Confort Pro, it reinforced its position in the two most
successful categories in 2009, deodorants and bath and shower products.
The competitive environment of mens grooming is entirely dominated by international brands. A number
of marketers noticed in bath and shower products generally, that the Le Petit Marseillais domestic brand
was increasingly establishing itself in the mens segment, up against strong male-specific brands such as
Axe and adidas.
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Men's Grooming
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In mens shaving, the Bic domestic brand, progressively lost ground in mens razors and blades. However,
its famous name and its innovations made it the third player in disposable razors in 2009 with a market
share of 20%, behind Wilkinson with 37% and Gillette with 33%.
In 2009, there was no ground-breaking innovation in men's grooming. Most of the launches focused on
skin-caring products mainly linked to shaving in order to easily attract men. However, as a market in its
infancy, the difficulty for manufacturers lay in the marketing approach through advertising and packaging.
Gillette re-launched its complete shaving range, named Gillette Series, at the beginning of 2009. It
comprises a cleaning gel and scrubbing gel to clean the hair; a gel to protect the skin during shaving; and a
balm to moisturise and smooth the skin. This launch invigorated the skin care category. For brand
managers, it was necessary to differentiate the message for skin care from that for razors and blades.
According to other players, the shaving market is a market where the purchase is well-considered, not
impulsive. Communication plays an essential role. In addition, convincing male consumers to turn to skin
care could compensate for the decline in shaving sales. If men must protect their skin after shaving, they
dont have to shave themselves to want to protect their skin.
Bic, increasingly positioned in terms of sustainable development, introduced, in February 2009, the first
triple-blade disposable razor with an organic-plastic handle under the name Bic ecolutions. It is made from
renewable material Bioplastic (poly lactic acid (PLA)), which derives from a chemical process which
transforms glucose into plastic. Produced from corn, the green colour the Bioplastic material comes from
the use of organic pigments with vegetable origins. The packaging features recyclable cardboard, with a
small size to optimise transport costs and minimise waste. Moreover, Bic maintained its original positioning
as offering a simple, effective, value-for-money solution.
In terms of skin care products, Williams launched a new shaving products range called Williams Confort
Pro. It comprises gels and foams without soap. The packaging featured a 3D effect not only for a better
handhold but also taking into account the sensibility of men to the design. This new shaving range has been
supported by media campaigns (on television and in the press) and sampling; samples appear to be an
efficient way to target and attract men.
Mens grooming continued to be led by international brands. With the difficult economic conditions, male
consumers turned to segments where mass brands were particularly strong and products less sophisticated,
notably deodorants and bath and shower products. By contrast, premium brands continued to dominate
mens skin care. Manufacturers attempted to introduce an offer with a high level of expertise combining
sophistication and efficacy. However, due to the economic crisis, some players such as LOral tried to
make their ranges, such as Men Expert, more affordable.
Private label has progressed in popular categories such as bath and shower, deodorants and pre- and postshave thanks to its value-for-money offer. However, mens grooming remains a sector where brand
identification is still more powerful.
PROSPECTS
Niche market and innovative category mens skin care will lead mens grooming in terms of dynamism
over the forecast period as manufacturers pursue more uptake in this area. In 2009, the penetration rate in
mens skin care was around just 30%. Sales are therefore expected to grow by 28% in constant value terms
thanks to the highly technical offer proposed by manufacturers.
Mens grooming sales overall are expected to grow by around 4% in constant value terms between 2009
and 2014. Expansion will be slow, the result of the difficult economic conditions and the rationalisation
approach adopted by French consumers due to their reduced purchasing power.
The major threat to future value sales in the market for mens grooming products will be private label. It
will be a particularly strong opponent in areas where products are less complex such as deodorants, bath
and shower products, and pre- and post-shave. Also, the long life-cycle of razors and blades due to growing
sophistication and efficacy will impact volume sales in the long term.
Although it will remain a niche, mens skin care is expected to increase strongly by 28% between 2009 and
2014. Innovative products with an increasingly high level of sophistication supported by a wide and
dynamic advertising campaigns, will be instrumental in this significant growth in value.
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Men's Grooming
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Mens hair care, the second strongest-performing category, is expected to grow by almost 14% in constant
value terms between 2009 and 2014. Mainly used by ageing male consumers, innovations here should focus
on anti-hair loss lotions and colourants.
Finally, mens deodorants is expected to increase by 11% between 2009 and 2014. The application of
deodorants has become a natural and daily act for French people. Men typically prefer spray and roll-on
deodorants, two formats identified by manufacturers in their innovations.
Premiumisation and the flow of innovations will lead the unit price to increase, particularly in mens skin
care and mens shaving. By contrast, mens deodorants, mens bath and shower products and mens hair
care will see unit prices decrease slightly in the long term with the anticipated development of private label.
Thanks to wide financial support from Unilever, the Williams Confort Pro range will meet success among
male consumers. Aiming to reach growth of 4% in the first six months and 6% in the first year, it registered
a successful start. In terms of the green trend, Bic is unlikely to remain alone in the area of sustainable
development. Shavings giants are likely to be tempted to follow the domestic brand with similar
innovations.
Brands, with Mennen and Gillette in particular, want to cover the entire shaving spectrum: mens pre-shave;
mens post-shave; and mens skin care. The same situation pertains to male-specific brands in the toiletries
sector. Brands such as Axe attempt to cover hair care, bath and shower gel and deodorants, taking
advantage of the fact that brand loyalty is often stronger among men.
CATEGORY DATA
Table 1
EUR million
Men's Shaving
- Men's Post-Shave
- Men's Pre-Shave
- Men's Razors and Blades
Men's Toiletries
- Men's Bath and Shower
- Men's Deodorants
- Men's Hair Care
- Men's Skin Care
Men's Grooming
Source:
Table 2
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
538.9
34.8
102.4
401.7
357.6
63.5
249.2
16.7
28.3
896.5
545.4
34.1
103.0
408.3
381.5
65.5
260.5
18.2
37.3
926.9
539.9
33.1
100.9
405.9
395.7
68.2
265.7
19.1
42.7
935.7
551.5
32.5
99.9
419.1
411.7
70.2
274.0
20.1
47.4
963.2
551.2
31.9
98.3
421.0
428.9
72.3
285.7
21.1
49.8
980.1
547.2
31.2
96.2
419.7
447.2
75.4
300.3
21.8
49.6
994.3
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International
estimates
Men's Shaving
- Men's Post-Shave
- Men's Pre-Shave
- Men's Razors and Blades
Men's Toiletries
- Men's Bath and Shower
- Men's Deodorants
- Men's Hair Care
- Men's Skin Care
Men's Grooming
Source:
2008/09
2004-09 CAGR
2004/09 TOTAL
-0.7
-2.1
-2.1
-0.3
4.3
4.4
5.1
3.5
-0.4
1.5
0.3
-2.2
-1.2
0.9
4.6
3.5
3.8
5.5
11.9
2.1
1.5
-10.4
-6.0
4.5
25.0
18.9
20.5
30.7
75.5
10.9
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International
estimates
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Men's Grooming
Table 3
France
Disposables
Systems
Systems - Razors
Systems - Refill Blades
Other Razors and Blades
Total
Source:
2007
2008
2009
28.6
71.0
22.3
48.6
0.4
100.0
28.7
71.0
22.4
48.7
0.3
100.0
28.9
70.9
24.4
46.5
0.2
100.0
28.6
71.2
24.6
46.5
0.2
100.0
29.1
70.7
24.5
46.3
0.2
100.0
Table 5
2006
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International
estimates
Table 4
Source:
2005
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
0.1
0.1
31.8
30.8
29.6
9.9
9.2
8.9
4.6
3.2
3.0
10.3
9.0
8.8
5.0
3.2
2.6
10.4
8.9
8.6
5.2
3.3
2.5
10.6
9.1
8.6
5.2
3.3
2.5
11.7
9.2
8.6
5.3
3.4
2.6
2.4
1.5
1.7
2.5
1.6
1.8
2.5
1.7
1.8
2.5
1.8
1.7
2.3
1.7
1.7
1.2
33.2
0.5
0.7
1.2
32.6
0.6
0.7
1.2
1.0
0.7
0.7
1.2
1.0
0.7
0.7
1.2
0.9
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.7
0.6
0.7
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.5
0.5
0.6
0.4
0.6
0.5
0.6
0.4
0.6
0.5
0.6
0.4
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.1
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.3
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.1
0.1
0.2
4.1
11.5
100.0
0.1
0.2
4.2
11.6
100.0
0.1
0.2
4.5
11.1
100.0
0.1
0.1
4.8
11.7
100.0
0.1
0.1
4.9
11.8
100.0
Trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International estimates
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Men's Grooming
Euromonitor International
France
Company
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Wilkinson Sword SA
Unilever France SA
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Laboratoires LaScad
Beiersdorf SA
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Bic SA, St
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Sara Lee Household &
Bodycare France SNC
Coty France SA
Laboratoires LaScad
Biotherm Distribution &
Cie
Unilever France SA
Eugne Perma France
Unilever France SA
L'Oral SA
Gillette France SA
Laboratoires LaScad
L'Oral SA
Clarins SA
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Henkel France SA
Cosmtique Active
International (CAI)
Colgate-Palmolive
France SA
Yves Rocher SA
Unilever France SA
Pierre Fabre
Participations SA
Este Lauder SA
Natura Cosmticos SA
Beaut Prestige
International SA
Beiersdorf SA
Procter & Gamble France
SNC
Gemey Maybelline
Garnier SNC
Rog Cavaills SAS
Colgate-Palmolive
France SA
Beiersdorf SA
Avon SA
Este Lauder SA
Gillette France SA
Gillette France SA
Gillette France SA
Gillette France SA
Private Label
2006
2007
2008
2009
13.3
12.2
10.6
9.0
7.7
-
8.9
7.9
5.0
9.1
8.1
6.0
9.2
8.8
7.2
5.7
5.2
-
5.6
5.3
4.2
5.5
5.3
3.9
5.5
5.5
3.7
4.2
3.8
3.6
3.2
-
3.3
3.3
3.3
3.2
3.4
2.9
2.6
2.5
2.5
2.6
2.5
2.2
1.8
2.5
2.2
1.8
2.5
2.2
1.7
2.3
2.3
1.7
1.8
1.2
0.7
0.9
4.1
0.8
0.8
0.6
-
1.8
1.2
0.7
0.9
1.0
0.9
0.8
0.7
0.9
1.7
1.2
0.8
1.0
1.0
0.9
0.8
0.7
0.6
1.6
1.2
0.9
0.9
0.9
0.9
0.8
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.7
0.6
0.7
0.6
0.6
0.6
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.6
0.4
0.6
0.4
0.5
0.4
0.5
0.4
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.3
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.2
0.1
0.2
0.1
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
17.6
4.5
4.4
1.2
4.2
4.5
4.8
4.9
Page
Men's Grooming
France
Others
Total
Source:
12.7
100.0
12.8
100.0
12.9
100.0
Trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International estimates
Table 6
Company
Gillette Mach3
Wilkinson Sword
Gillette Fusion
Gillette GII/Contour
Gillette Sensor Excel
Bic
Gillette Fusion
Phenom (+ Power)
Bic Comfort 3 Advance
Gillette Mach3 Turbo
Bic Easy
Bic Ecolution
Gillette Mach3
Gillette Sensor Excel
Gillette GII/Contour
Gillette Mach3 Turbo
Private label
Others
Total
Source:
12.1
100.0
2006
2007
2008
2009
30.6
28.4
25.1
20.3
-
20.1
11.5
20.9
14.1
21.4
13.9
9.6
9.1
8.7
9.6
8.9
8.5
7.4
-
5.6
-
5.4
-
4.3
3.1
2.1
2.0
2.3
1.5
2.1
1.4
40.5
10.3
10.2
2.7
5.2
3.3
100.0
6.0
2.9
100.0
6.5
3.0
100.0
1.1
0.5
6.7
3.2
100.0
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews,
Euromonitor International estimates
Table 7
EUR million
Men's Shaving
- Men's Post-Shave
- Men's Pre-Shave
- Men's Razors and Blades
Men's Toiletries
- Men's Bath and Shower
- Men's Deodorants
- Men's Hair Care
- Men's Skin Care
Men's Grooming
Source:
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
547.2
31.2
96.2
419.7
447.2
75.4
300.3
21.8
49.6
994.3
542.6
30.7
94.8
417.0
453.6
76.0
305.7
22.3
49.5
996.1
539.0
30.6
93.6
414.8
460.2
77.2
309.4
22.8
50.7
999.1
536.4
30.7
92.7
413.0
471.7
78.6
316.2
23.5
53.4
1,008.1
534.5
30.9
91.5
412.0
487.5
80.3
324.1
24.1
58.9
1,021.9
532.5
31.1
90.8
410.6
504.3
81.8
334.2
24.8
63.6
1,036.8
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International
estimates
Table 8
Men's Shaving
Euromonitor International
2009-14 CAGR
2009/14 TOTAL
-0.5
-2.7
Page
Men's Grooming
France
- Men's Post-Shave
- Men's Pre-Shave
- Men's Razors and Blades
Men's Toiletries
- Men's Bath and Shower
- Men's Deodorants
- Men's Hair Care
- Men's Skin Care
Men's Grooming
Source:
-0.1
-1.2
-0.4
2.4
1.6
2.2
2.6
5.1
0.8
-0.3
-5.6
-2.2
12.8
8.4
11.3
13.5
28.2
4.3
Official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International
estimates
Table 9
000 units
Mens shavers
Womens shavers
Depilators
TOTAL
Source:
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
1,130.0
142.9
663.6
1,936.5
1,285.6
114.1
652.0
2,051.6
1,481.0
116.2
579.8
2,177.0
1,635.5
112.3
562.6
2,310.4
1,668.4
105.6
545.3
2,319.3
1,701.0
102.4
530.1
2,333.5
Trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, Euromonitor International estimates
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