Extreme How-To Magazine - Holiday 2014 USA

Your House is a System | Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes
The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement
GIFT
IDEAS
FOR THE DIY
HOMEOWNER
PLUS:
ARTIFICIAL STONE
UP CLOSE
WOOD BURNING 101
Holiday Digital 2014

www.extremehowto.com
GeneralTools2FP_Layout 1 11/24/14 2:43 PM Page 1
26
48
F E ATU R E S
26 Wood Burning 101

Heating your House with this
Natural, Renewable Resource
32 Your House is a System

Understanding the Relationship between
the Components and Systems of your Home
38 Holiday Gifts for

the DIY Homeowner
48 Artificial Stone Up Close

Lightweight and Easy to Install, Artificial
Stone is a Popular Alternative Building Material
COLUMNS
6 Q&A
10 Do-It-Yourself
Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes
D E PA R T M E N T S
58 Material Market
Grid Guidelines for a Great Look
04
41
QA
&
Got
a
Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own

How-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.com
and click on Ask Our Experts.
Q:
A:
What is the best way to cut fiber-cement siding?
Fiber-cement contains silica, considered a carcinogen, so you should avoid breathing the dust generated
by cutting the material. The most dust-free method is to cut with powered handheld shears, or to score
and snap the siding. If you must use a high-speed power tool (circ saw, grinder, etc.), then you should work outdoors, preferably with a HEPA vacuum extraction and definitely with a dust mask. Make the cuts with a special
fiber-cement blade, which has fewer teeth to create larger dust particles, reducing the amount of smaller, breathable particles.
Q:
A:
I'd like to rebuild the rectangular entrance to our kitchen with an arched top, but how do I bend the
drywall for the arch?
Remove the drywall above the pass-through from each side of the wall. Cut two replacement panels from
1/4in. plywood with matching curves at the bottom. Screw them to the framing above the entrance, and
add short cripple studs between the curved panels. You can then cover the plywood panels with 1/4- or 3/8-in.
drywall to match the adjacent walls. To finish the curved area between the two plywood panels, you have three
options: (1) Use a special flexible drywall. (2) Create your own flexible drywall by scoring the back of 1/2-in. drywall
every 1/2 or 1 inch. (3) Or, for the look of wood trim on the curve, you can use thin, bendable plywood.
06
ExtremeHowTo.com
QA
&
Got
a
Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own

How-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.com
and click on Ask Our Experts.
Q:
A:
How do I install a peephole in a fiberglass door?
Fiberglass doors are built with two fiberglass panels with wood blocking and insulation at the core, which you
can drill though to install the peephole. Most peepholes require 1/2 in. hole. Locate the hole in the center of
the door approximately 58 in. from the bottom. Start with a 1/8-in. spiral bit at the peephole location, drill at full speed
and press lightly to bore through the fiberglass and into the inner foam core. Drill through the insulating core and
through the fiberglass panel on the other side. Switch to a 1/2-in. spade bit. On the inside of the door, insert the tip
of the spade (or hole saw) into the pilot hole and drill your peephole. To reduce chipping the exterior, stop drilling when
the tip begins to penetrate the outer fiberglass panel. Then, from the other side, place the drill tip into the pilot hole
and drill through the panel, completing the hole. Dab the drilled holes with sealant or epoxy. Insert the sections of the
two-part peep-hole assembly into each side of the hole. Twist the pieces together to tighten.
Q:
A:
How do I calculate the pitch of a roof?
Roof pitch is a numerical measure of the steepness of a roof. The pitch is the vertical rise measurement
divided by the horizontal span or run. It is the same thing as what is called slope in geometry. In the
United States, slope is typically given in inches per 1 foot, or as a ratio of inches per 12 inches, commonly
referred to with units of pitch. For a roof slope of 1/3, a 4 pitch roof indicates 4 inches of rise over 1 foot
of run. Similarly, a 4:12 pitch is 4 inches of rise over 12 inches of run. EHT
08
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DO IT YOURSELF
Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes

A Variety of Finishes Adds Class and Character
Imagination, time and specialty

paints will turn drab furniture,
such as this old chest, into
exciting and unusual dcor.
Shown is a crackle finish.
By Monte Burch
magination and a few specialty

paints can turn drab, aged or
even unfinished new furniture
into fun and exciting dcor. This
includes both inside and outside
furniture. A wide range of paints
are available in both brush-on and
spray for creating your own fantastic furniture finishes.
CRACKLE
One of the most dramatic

furniture finishes is a crackle. A
crackle finish is great for revitalizing
old, drab furniture pieces, but works
equally well for accent pieces. A
crackle finish can be applied with a
spray-on or hand painted technique.
Spray-on finishes are best for smaller
accent pieces.
The crackle finishes manufactured by Valspar, both spray-on and
10
paint-on, are available in two styles,

Weathered Crackle and Porcelain
Crackle. Weathered Crackle has
large cracks or splits in the top finish; Porcelain Crackle has smaller
checks, more resembling aged
porcelain. Both are available in a
wide range of both base and topcoat colors. Check your local Lowes
store for whats available.
Spray-on crackle finishes consist of two cans, base and top
coat. Brush-on finishes consist of
a base coat, Crackle Glaze and a
top coat. Any latex paint can be
used as both base and top coat.
The effects can be dramatic.
Experiment on a scrap of wood
before tackling your furniture or
accessory project to make sure
you understand the crackle finish
and the colors.
In both instances, make sure

the surface is clean of all grit, oil
and loose particles. For spray-on
crackle, spray the base coat at
room temperature, making sure
the coating is applied evenly and
that the surface is covered well. If
the object to be covered has a previous paint coat, test spray in an
inconspicuous area to make sure
the paints are compatible. In most
instances you should apply at
least two coats of base to make
sure the object is well covered.
Allow the base coat to dry thoroughly, and then spray on the
crackle top coat.
To create this crackle finish, a

base coat of tan latex trim paint
matching the color of the walls is
first applied.
DO IT YOURSELF
The crackle glaze technique
using brush-on or roll-on latex
paint requires first applying a
smooth base coat of the desired
color with a roller or brush, making
sure the coating is smooth and

evenly applied. Again, you may
wish to apply more than one coat
to ensure thorough coverage.
Allow the last coat to dry
overnight. For a Porcelain Crackle,

apply an even coat of glaze to the
surface using a foam brush in an
X pattern, overlapping the brush
strokes to cover the surface.
Reload the foam brush and even
out the glaze by running the brush
over the surface. Add more glaze
as needed and make a final
smoothing pass in the same direction as the wood grain. Allow the
crackle glaze to dry at least 24
hours, and then apply Valspar
Antiquing Glaze or Translucent
The crackle glaze is applied

and allowed to set for 2 to 4 hours.
In this case a plum-colored top

coat was applied. Within minutes
the top coat will separate into
crackles.
12
DO IT YOURSELF
Color Glaze to the surface with a
dry rag or brush. Remove excess
glaze before it dries and then
apply a coat of Valspar Clear
Protector.
Weathered Crackle is applied in

somewhat the same manner, first
applying the base coat and allowing to dry overnight. Then apply
the Weathered Crackle Glaze to
the surface using a quality nylon

brush or short-nap (1/4-inch)
roller. For a more pronounced
crackle, use the brush. For a more
delicate appearance, use the
roller. The more Crackle Glaze
applied, the more pronounced the
separations. Make sure the coat is
The crackle finish can be almost

any combination of contrasting
colors. Shown here, plum was used
as the base.
The tan color was then used

over the plum as the top coat.
One of the most popular finishes

these days is the rubbed or
distressed look.
14
DO IT YOURSELF
applied evenly, but do not overwork. Allow the glaze coating to
dry 2 to 4 hours. Then, using a
roller or brush, apply a top coat of
interior flat paint. The paint must
be flat sheen paint. Any other

sheen will not produce an effective
crackle finish. Do not overwork the
top coat, as this can cause the
paint to ball up. Within minutes
A latex trim paint is applied.

Then the edges, as well as some
of the flat surfaces, are lightly
sanded to remove a portion of
the paint.
The Ultimate Screw Extractor! Rusted, Stripped, Stuck...No Problem!

The VamPLIERSTM family of screw extraction pliers incorporates the
patented VamPLIERSTM technology. This technology provides
a solution to extracting the toughest screws, nuts, and
bolts, including tamper-proof, one-sided,
low profile, and specialty screws,
like Torx Screws.
Available in four different sizes to accommodate a
wide variety of stuck fastener sizes in constricted
spaces to large fasteners found
in industrial applications.
VamPLIERSTM are uniquely
perfect in maintenance, repair
and operations (MRO) applications.
the top coat will begin to separate

into crackles, allowing the base
coat to show through. Allow to dry
overnight. To create an even more
weathered look, rub Antiquing
Glaze or Burnt Umber over the
Weathered Crackle Finish. Allow
to dry at least 72 hours, and then
apply a coat of Valspar Clear
Protector. Create an even more
distressed appearance by rubbing
or sanding off the edges or down
through the top coat to the color
beneath.
CREATE A
RUBBED FINISH
www.VampireTools.com
16
The popular rubbed finish is

actually not rubbed but sanded.
This technique is especially effective on furniture. The simplest
technique is to apply several
coats of a quality latex paint to
the object, allow them to dry and
then use fine sandpaper to lightly
SPIRAL STAIRS
AND MODULAR
STAIR CASE KITS
AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE USA, ARKE
SPIRAL AND MODULAR STAIRCASE KITS
CAN BE BUILT IN A DAY BY THE AVERAGE
DO-IT-YOURSELF HOME ENTHUSIAST.
The OAK 70.XTRA
The Oak 70.XTRA is an adjustable premier series spiral staircase that

features solid Oak wooden stair treads and landing to complement
and add style to any interior living space. Surrounding the full length
of the staircase, the horizontal balusters and railing design is visually
unique when compared to the traditional vertical baluster design of
most stairs. The staircase can be easily installed by the homeowner
in a single day using common household tools. The Oak 70.XTRA
is available in 2 diameter sizes and is available in 2 choices of
colorHi-Gloss Black and Hi-Gloss White.
Standard kit includes 12 oak wood stair treads, a landing, a
complete handrail, and all necessary hardware and connectors.
Diameters available include a 5 ft. 3 in. model and a 4 ft. 3 in. model.
The height range for the standard kit is adjustable from 8 ft. 3 in.
to 10 ft. 2 7/8 in. and with additional components, can be
installed to a maximum height of 11 ft. 9 5/16 in.
Powder coat finished painted in either Hi-Gloss Black or Hi-Gloss White.

Can be installed in a clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.
Stair treads and landing are made of solid Oak wood with a natural stain and a polyurethane protective coating.
Balcony rail kits are available in matching color and horizontal baluster and railing design.
Handrail is manufactured from an aluminum core surrounded by a soft PVC cover to allow the handrail to be curved at the
time of installation to accommodate the radius of the staircase.
Rise between stair treads is adjustable from 8 3/8 in. to 9 in.
Interior installation only.
A complete installation guide is included in all kits and an installation video is available upon request.
Homeowner should consult with local building department concerning building codes prior to purchase.
www.arkestairs.com
DO IT YOURSELF
One of the traditional fun finishes

is antiquing. Antiquing kits are
available, and the process involves
applying a base coat, then a
stained glaze and wiping off the
latter.
Limed oak is a very popular finish

and turned this previously dark
50s desk into a great sewing and
craft room work surface.
MAGNETIC PAINTBRUSH HOLDER
Simple in design but handy during a painting job, the Magnetic Paintbrush Holder
available from Lee Valley Tools does just what it sounds like. The EHT staff put the
gadget to use on some recent paint projects, and it conveniently clips to the rim of a
paint can so the metal ferrule of the brush can adhere to the magnets, vertically or
horizontally. This helps prevent the bad habit of laying a wet brush just any old
place, where it usually collects dirt or debris and/or leaves a drippy mess. The downward angle of the brush also allows paint to flow from the bristles back into the can,
making brush cleanup much easier. Plus, the clip includes a metal tab for opening
paint cans. The Magnetic Paintbrush Holder sells for only $3.90 at
www.leevalley.com.
18
DO IT YOURSELF
sand the corners and edges. As
you can guess, this technique
works best with furniture designs
with lots of edges, such as frame
and panel.
An alternative method is to
apply a base coat of one color,
White latex paint mixed with water

is applied to the surface.
20
While still wet, the paint is lightly rubbed off the surface with a soft
cloth to create a smooth, streak-free finish, while leaving white in
the oak grain.
allow it to dry and then apply several top coats of another color.
Sand down through the top coat to
the base coat in selected areas.
This technique is great for matching a furniture piece to room
dcor, using either the base or top
coat as the match and the other
coat as a complementary color.
Polyurethane varnish is then

applied over the dried surface.
ANTIQUE FINISH
The antiqued finish has been

extremely popular for some time.
This finish consists of applying a
base coat, then following with an
antiquing glaze. The products are
often sold in kit form containing
the undercoat and glaze. You can
also create your own antiquing
glaze by adding burnt umber oil
colors to polyurethane varnish and
use any choice of color for the
undercoat. In either instance,
experiment on scrap wood before
attempting your furniture project.
After the base coat has dried, the
glaze is applied with a foam brush,
and the excess glaze wiped off
with a clean rag. Always apply
First step in using spray paints

on outdoor furniture is to remove
any rust and loose particles, then
clean the surface thoroughly.
Apply the spray evenly in several
coats, keeping the nozzle about
12 inches from the surface. Keep
the can moving to prevent runs.
glaze and smooth out with the
direction of the wood grain. Again,
furniture projects with pronounced
edges and moldings produce the
best effect.
to the cleaned wood surface using

a foam brush. Allow the latex to
sit for a few minutes, then remove
the excess with a clean rag, wiping
in the direction of the wood grain,
but leaving plenty of color in the
wood grain. Allow to dry thoroughly, and then apply a top coat of
polyurethane or Valspar Clear
Protector.
SPRAY PAINTS
If you havent walked down the

spray-paint aisle in a big-box store
for some time, you may be surprised, not only at the vast array
of colors, but also the number of
specialty paints as well. Some
of the most interesting are the
metallic colors. Gold, silver, brass,
bronze, copper, pewteryou name
LIMED OAK
Some of the most interesting and

easy-to-use furniture finishes are
todays unusual spray paints. RustOleum Hammered Bronze turned a
pair of green chairs and a white
table into a matching set of outdoor furniture.
HANDSOME HARDWARE
A very popular and simple

furniture finish is limed oak.
Actually, this has become increasingly popular as a cabinet finish as
well as for house trim, not only on
oak but with other woods as well.
The process is actually quite simple. Dilute a satin-sheen white
latex paint about half with water
and apply in a smooth, even coat
In this case Rust-Oleum MultiColor

Textured spray paint creates a rich
and elegant textured surface on a
previously drab black finish.
Furniture is not the only household items that can be

revamped with a new paint finish. If youve priced todays cabinet
and furniture hardware, then you know theyre quite expensive.
Old hardware can often be redone with a new spray-on finish.
We recently repainted some kitchen cabinet hardware and saved
a lot of money. You can create an antiqued type of hardware
finish by first spraying with a metallic paint, then rubbing gilt
paste across the top surfaces. We have refurbished old light fixtures,
furnace floor registers and a number of other items with a new
sprayed finish. Appliances can also be spray painted. The first step
is to thoroughly clean the item with mineral spirits and allow it to
dry completely. Position the item so it can be sprayed from all sides,
and then apply the spray paint according to the manufacturers
instructions.
21
DO IT YOURSELF
Todays spray paints can create

unusual decor. The shelf shown is
a 2 x 6, California Redwood scrap
from a building project with a distressed gold finish. First step is to
cut the shelf and rout the edges.
Then cut a bottom support strip
and fasten it to the underside of
the shelf.
Spray or brush on an undercoat of
plum or other dark paint to match
the interior decor.
allow the surface to dry thoroughly. The use of a metal primer can
also help the paint adhere and
provide a longer lasting finish.
Spray paints should only be
used outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, such as an open
garage. Do not apply in windy
conditions. For the best drying,
apply in temperatures between
50 and 90 degrees and with
humidity less than 85 percent.
Shake the can thoroughly then
apply the paint in smooth even
strokes approximately 12 inches
from the surface, overlapping the
strokes and keeping the spray
nozzle the same distance from
the surface at all times. Its best
to apply in several medium coats,
rather than one heavy coat to
lessen the chances of runs and
drips. In good conditions the paint
should dry in 15 minutes, to the
touch in 90 minutes, and should
cure thoroughly within 48 hours.
A number of other faux paint
finishes, designed primarily for
covering walls can also be used
to create unusual finishes on
furniture. The Valspar products
include Textured Stone, Rag

Rolling, Linen Weave, Color
Washing, Sponging, Leather and
Metals and Patinas. In most
instances the entire furniture
piece is not treated, only the top,
panels of doors and other selected areas. In all instances these
consist of first applying a base
coat, then applying a top coat
using a variety of tools to create
the design desired. For more
information on faux finish products and techniques, visit
www.extremehowto.com. EHT
While still wet, a foam brush is

used to lightly remove some of
the gold to allow the undercoat
to show through.
Rub the edges with a soft cloth,

or wait until the paint dries and
use 0000 steel wool to rub off
the edges.
FAUX FINISHES
it. The most striking are the

hammered metallics, but other
finishes also simulate suede
and stone as well as other textures. Several of these specialty
metal-style paints can be used
for a quick and easy rejuvenation
of metal outdoor lawn furniture
and accessories.
Its important to choose a longlasting spray paint designed for
outdoor use on metal, such as
Rust-Oleum. Although this can
actually be applied directly over
rust, its important to first loosen
scale and remove loose paint
and rust flakes with a wire brush
and/or sandpaper. Then clean
the surface with soap and water
to remove grease and oils, and
22
Rust-Oleum Pure Gold Metallic

paint is then sprayed onto the
surface.
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WOOD
BURNING
101
W
Heating Your Home with

this Natural, Renewable
Resource
by Monte Burch
ith the economy and price of heating

fuels today, many folks are heating
with wood or are considering wood
heat for the first time. Wood heat may be a
backup for another heating source, a sole
heat source, or used only for emergencies.
Regardless, its important to understand the
advantages and disadvantages of heating
with wood.
Wood is an environmentally friendly, or
green, heat source as opposed to fossil
fuels. Wood is also readily renewable. As
trees grow and are harvested, they can be
replaced or will usually replace themselves.
Wood doesnt contribute to air pollution in
the same manner as fossil fuels. CO2, the
main ingredient in greenhouse gas, absorbed
from plants as they fossilized millions of
years ago, is oxidized by burning the fuels.
Growing trees absorb carbon dioxide, and
when the wood is burned releases the carbon dioxide, only to be reabsorbed by growing trees.
Another advantage of burning wood is during an emergency when the electricity is off.
Wood supplies heat along with cooking and
water heating, as well as some illumination.
And, firewood is usually more economical to

burn than fossil fuels.
Theres also the romance of a wood fire.
Sitting, gazing at our fireplace in the early
morning before daylight, with that first cup
of coffee, is my favorite wintertime start of
the day.
However, burning wood also has disadvantages. It requires a storage place. And, any
way you look at it, burning wood is messy.
Wood chips, bark pieces and other litter
come in and ashes go out, not to mention
the maintenance required of cleaning a fireplace or stove and chimney. Smoke pollution
from burning wood can also be a problem,
especially in low-lying or urban areas. Its
important to check local regulations regarding wood burning. Also check with your
homeowners insurance. A wood-burning
fireplace or stove can add to the cost.
WOOD AS FUEL
When wood burns, water evaporates from

the wood and a chemical reaction breaks
down the wood into charcoal, gas and
volatile liquids. Carbon dioxide and water
are released as the main byproducts. As
n3rd-artphoto.com
27
WOOD
BURNING
101
Burning wood safely requires

following all safety rules regarding
your burning unit, and keeping
the fireplace or stove maintained
and properly cleaned.
The different species of wood

burn differently, determined by
the density of the wood, with oak
or hickory being some of the
densest and most efficiently
burned woods.
the charcoal burns, it forms carbon dioxide as well as carbon
monoxide. Wood, like other heating fuels, is rated by BTU (British
Thermal Units, or the amount of
heat needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water one
degree Fahrenheit). Theoretically,
a pound of very dry wood with a
moisture content of zero would
have a califoric value of 8,600
BTUs. Any moisture in the wood,
however, vaporizes as it goes up
the chimney, reducing the BTUs
about 1,200 per pound of water
released. It is not possible, however, to reduce the moisture content
28
of wood to zero. Twenty percent

moisture content is probably as
low as you can get firewood. One
pound of wood having a moisture
content of 20 percent has approximately 0.83 pounds of dry wood
and 0.17 pounds of water. This
results in a heat potential of
approximately 7,000 BTUs. The
fuel value of wood depends on the
moisture content as well as the
density of wood.
THE RIGHT TYPE
Any wood will burn, but the

denser or heavier woods provide
more BTUs per cord. According
to Homelite, one cord of average
hardwood, such as white ash,
provides the fuel equivalent of
165 gallons of heating oil. Very
dense woods, such as oak, can
provide as much as 244.55 gallons of heating oil while the softwoods such as Eastern white pine
provide the equivalent of 86.9
gallons.
Some of the densest woods
are the locusts, hickories, oaks,
mulberry and sugar maple trees.
Some moderately dense woods
are ash, walnut, hackberry, elms
and sycamore. The poorest hardwoods include soft maple, cottonwood, willow and box elder.
Evergreen species should be
avoided due to their resin contents. The resin causes unwanted
deposits in flues and chimneys,
making them difficult to clean
and subject to chimney fires.
Firewood should be cured
before burning. Uncured firewood,
with high moisture content, burns
cooler and creates more creosote,
requiring more cleaning and maintenance and is more of a chimney
fire hazard. It takes time to dry
firewood properly. If purchasing
firewood, ask how long since
its been cut and/or cured. If cutting your own firewood, it takes
approximately nine months to
a year to dry firewood to an

average moisture content of
20 percent, depending on the
species. Dense hardwoods do
best if allowed to season for a
full year.
One trick is to cut down the
whole green tree during the growing season, allowing the wilting
leaves to pump moisture from the
woody tissue. Once the trees are
dead, they can be cut into firewood in a somewhat drier state.
If possible, cut and split firewood
early in the year to hasten the drying process. Twelve-inch diameter
wood should be at least quartered
for faster drying. Cut more than
you need for the winter and carry
over a supply of dried wood for
the following year.
The most common measure
of firewood is a cord. A cord is
a stack of logs 4-by-4-by-8 feet.
Most wood, however, is sold in
lengths shorter than 4 feet, called
a face cord, or a 4-by-8-ft. stack
that is face-cut into the desired
length, such as 16 inches. The latter would be one-third of a standard cord. Wood is also sold by
the ton, or even pickup load.
One ton of air-dried dense hardwoods, such as hickory or oak,
equals approximately half a cord.
When buying wood by the ton,
8
4
4
Firewood is commonly sold by the
cord, which is a stack of logs
4x4x8 feet, or a face cord, a
stack 4x8 feet, but the length of
the firewood is usually 16.
WOOD
BURNING
101
look for the driest wood to prevent

paying extra for water. Firewood
bundles, sold at convenience
stores, supermarkets and other
retailers, are also popular. Properly
seasoned oak or other hardwoods
weigh about 3,600 pounds per
cord. A bundle weighing 36 pounds
is about 1/100 of a cord. Or, a
bundle 1-by-1-by-2 feet is 2 cubic
feet, or approximately 1/64 of a
cord.
DIY APPROACH
The most economical tactic is

to cut, split and season your own
firewood. Gathering firewood, splitting, stacking and seasoning can
be a very enjoyable and healthful
pastime for the entire family.
Warms you twice, my Uncle
Mike used to say.
Make sure you follow all safety
instructions and rules regarding
Cutting, splitting and seasoning

your own wood is fun, good
exercise and very economical.
A bucking horse makes cutting
logs to length easier.
Any number of midsize chainsaws
is perfect for cutting your own
firewood.
30
Firewood burns most efficiently when split. Twelve-inch and larger

diameter trees should be quartered. Splitting is good exercise. A good
splitting maul and/or splitting wedge makes the chore easier. Make
sure you wear safety glasses and gloves.
chainsaw use and keep family
members away from all cutting
chores.
Wood for firewood is
available from many sources. In
properly managed timberlands or
woodlots, firewood comes from
diseased, poorly formed or overcrowded trees, or species inferior
for use as building materials.
These trees must be weeded
out much like weeding a garden.
If you have your own woodlot or
access to a private woodlot, contact your State Forestry Office
for assistance in identifying trees
that should be removed. Ask
permission before cutting or
removing trees from property
other than your own. Storm-damaged trees are a great source of
firewood often available simply
for doing the cleanup. National
Forests and other public lands
sometimes have free firewood in
order to manage the timberlands.
Landfills are another source.
Sawmills often sell slabs and
trims for a nominal price.
Wood can be burned in fireplaces, fireplace inserts and in
wood stoves. Fireplaces are the
least efficient with an efficiency
ranging from 10 to 20 percent.
Fireplace inserts with circulating
fans increase efficiency. Wood

stoves are more efficient and are
available in three basic types;
combustion, radiant heaters and
circulating stoves. Combustion
stoves with the look and feel of
an open fired Franklin Type are
in the 50- to 60-percent range.
Circulating stoves are the most
efficient. Hearth stoves are another type of circulating stove, and
both are in the 60- to 70-percent
efficiency range. Follow all safety
rules regarding your burning unit
and keep it well maintained and
routinely cleaned.
Properly harvested and seasoned wood burned in a safe
and efficient heating unit is an
economical, safe, efficient, and
desirable fuel from a renewable
resource. EHT
Maul or
wedge
Splitting logs is
easier if you follow the natural
split of the end grain.
LAND PRIDE SBL25 SNOW BLOWERS

Manage your land this winter with
the Land Pride SBL25, a front-mount
Snow Blower designed to fit skid
steers and tractors with QuickAttach plates. It is a fully hydraulic
unitauger, impeller, chute and
deflectorand features a 24-in.
impeller and 16-in. auger. The
auger features four paddles to
direct snow into the four-blade
impeller to direct the snow into
the chute. Skid shoes are adjustable
and replaceable. The unit is available
in 66-, 74- and 84-in. widths. Visit
www.landpride.com.
31
Photo courtesy the Tapco Group
32
YOUR
HOUSE
IS
A
SYSTEM
By Larry Zarker
Understanding the relationship between components

and systems can affect the comfort, health, safety,
durability and energy efficiency of your home.
33
YOUR HOUSE IS A SYSTEM

ou understand that your car
is made up of interacting
components and systems
when one component fails, it
affects the performance of the
entire vehicle. But did you know
that the same goes for your
house?
High energy bills, uneven temperatures from room-to-room,
drafts, moisture, mold, mildew,
poor indoor air quality, ice dams,
pest infestations, seemingly
uncontrollable humidity levels and
even premature deterioration of
building materials can all be the
result of a breakdown in the relationship between the systems in
your house. Often what seems like
the obvious culprita prime fix for
a competent do-it-yourselferis
not actually the root cause. That
obvious fix can not only fail to
solve the original issue, it can
actually put more strain on the
relationship and compound the
problemor create a whole new

set of problems.
To get it right, you need to consider the whole home using the
house-as-a-system concept.
HOW HEALTHY IS YOUR

RELATIONSHIP?
There are three main systems

that impact energy, comfort, health
and safety: the building envelope
(also called the building enclosure or
shell), the heating, ventilation and
air conditioning (HVAC) equipment,
and the occupants.
The building envelope consists
of the roof, exterior walls and foundation of the house. Its role is to
separate the indoor living environment from the outdoor elements.
It blocks wind, rain, heat and cold,
protecting the interior of the house
and its occupants.
The HVAC provides comfort conditioning intended to make the living space enjoyable. It provides
heat in winter, and for those who
have air conditioning, cool in summer. It also circulates fresh air
and regulates humidity levels.
The third systemthe occupantscan affect the performance
of the home by their behavior. Just
living in the house has an impact,
although some habits have more
effect than others.
Unless you live in the most temperate and consistent of climates,
the envelope will not keep you comfortable on its own. And if there is a
problem with the building envelope,
the HVAC cannot properly perform
its comfort conditioning function.
Additionally, if the occupants crank
the thermostat and then leave
the windows wide open, or place
The building envelope works in

conjunction with the HVAC system to
maintain a comfortable temperature
and humidity level inside the home.
Photos courtesy James Hardie
34
YOUR HOUSE IS A SYSTEM

furniture or belongings over the registers and cold-air return vents, the
HVAC doesnt stand a chance.
Heres a scenario Youre
uncomfortable so you reach for
the thermostat, but the HVAC still
cant keep up. Your energy bills get
higher. You notice condensation
on windows. You find mold in the
basement. The attic is damp and
you worry about warping and rot.
The kids seem to catch one cold
after another. If your house were a
car, the check engine light would
be blazing and mysterious rattles
would be coming from under the
hood.
So you spend money and a
weekend or two putting in more
insulation. The problem gets a bit
better, but it isnt solved. You look
at the condensation and wonder if
you should get new windows. You
install a new thermostat and think
about replacing the old furnace
with a high-efficiency model. You
take the kids to the pediatrician
for another round of antibiotics.
Meanwhile, youre still uncomfortable and your energy bills are still
way too high.
The process of elimination
strategy to home-performance
repairs can cost a lot of money
and time without ever achieving
the goal of a comfortable, healthy,
safe and energy-efficient home.
The alternative is to conduct a
whole-home assessment to find
those relationship problems and
tackle them at the root cause.
One of the most common relationship problems between the
envelope and HVAC is uncontrolled air leakage through the
building envelope. In this scenario,
that indoor air you pay to heat and
cool escapes through gaps, cracks
and holes in the building envelope.
Its uncontrolled because all the
windows and doors (the intentional holes in the envelope) are shut
36
and air is still escaping. The U.S.

Governments Energy Star program estimates uncontrolled air
leakage can waste as much as 30
percent of the energy used to heat
and cool an average American
home. Another common problem
is leaky ducts in forced-air HVAC
systems. In a typical house, about
20 percent of the air that moves
through the duct system is lost
due to leaks, holes and poorly
connected ducts, according to
Energy Star.
FINDING THE PROBLEMS
A comprehensive whole-home
assessment is best performed by
a trained and qualified technician
for two reasons:
1) Properly diagnosing home
performance problems and prescribing solutions requires a
background in specialist building science that most DIYers
just do not have.
2) The job requires specialist
(and often expensive) diagnostic
toolssuch as a pressurization
blower door and infrared camera
that are not likely to be found in
the average DIY tool kit.
What you can do to prepare for
the comprehensive assessment
is conduct an initial audit of your
own. Start by writing down all the
symptoms, including when and
where in the house you notice
them most. Make a list of any
work thats been done and when
it was donefor example, you
might note that you installed new
insulation last fall, or converted
the deck to a sunroom three summers ago, or changed from a
window A/C to central air five
years ago.
Pull together all your energy
bills for the last year (the farther
back you can go, the better)
and look for usage patterns or
changes that correspond with
the symptoms, the previous work,

or both. Double-check the age and
rating on your HVAC equipment
and household appliances and be
sure you know the fuel types for
each.
Walk through your house and
look for cluestaking pictures as
you go if you have a camera. Are
there damp spots? Is dust collecting or is the carpet looking dirty
near the baseboards? Is the snow
melting in a weird pattern on the
roof? Does the furnace make a
funny noise or produce a strange
smell when its running hard? Is
one room particularly hot or cold?
Which windows seem to carry the
most condensation?
When you present your findings
to your specialist home performance contractor, he or she should
listen carefully, take good notes
and ask follow-up questions as
part of the homeowner interview
before starting the physical
assessment. Theyll probably also
evaluate your energy bills and ask
some questions about that third
systemthe occupants and their
The HVAC heats, cools, circulates

fresh air and regulates humidity.
Installing a programmable thermostat is an easy place to start

optimizing your energy efficiency.
behavioreither before or after
the physical audit.
The comprehensive assessment
will start with a thorough walkthroughboth indoors and out. The
technician may use an infrared
camera to get a visual on temperature differences in different
areas, conduct a blower door
test to depressurize the house to
assess air leakage levels, and test
for leakage in the duct work of
forced-air HVAC systems. They may
also perform other function and
safety tests on HVAC equipment,
including carbon monoxide levels
and combustion back-draft testing.
At the end of the comprehensive
whole-home assessment, your
home performance contractor
should be able to provide you with
a scientific, objective view of the
situation. They should be able to
help you prioritize repairs in order
from must-do to nice-to-doso you
can solve the biggest problems
without making smaller problems
worse. They should also be able
to guide you regarding which fixes
are suitable for your particular DIY
skill level, and which will require
expert helpeither from the contracting company who performed
the assessment or from another
qualified, trained source.
SHOW ME THE MONEY
Upgrading your homes performance can increase its value and
provide great rewards in terms of

comfort, health, safety and energy
savings. But it can also require an
investment of money, time or both.
Its worth investigating Federal,
State and local homeowner incentive programs. You can visit the
Database of State Incentives for
Renewables & Efficiency (DSIRE)
at www.dsireusa.org and click on
your state on the map to find out
whats available in your area. You
can also find a state-by-state index
of participating Home Performance
with Energy Star programs at
www.energystar.gov.
Just be aware that many of
these incentive programs will need
you to register before your initial
whole-home assessment is done,
and then have another whole-home
assessment performed after all
the work is completed to ensure
it was completed satisfactorily to
the levels required by that specific
program. Some programs also

require the assessments and work
be performed by contracting companies with specific qualifications,
such as Building Performance
Institute Certified Technicians or
Accredited Contractors.
Understanding how your house
works as a series of interconnected
systems can help you identify the
root cause of problems and find
solutions to improve the comfort,
health, safety, durability and energy
efficiency of your home. EHT
Editors Note: Larry Zarker is the
CEO of the Building Performance
Institute (BPI), an independent,
not-for-profit organization committed to the improvement of home
performance via training, certification, accreditation and quality
assurance programs for residential
contractors and their customers.
Learn more at www.bpi.org.
One of the most common relationship problems between the building

envelope and HVAC is air leakage through gaps and cracks in the
walls, ducts, roof and foundation.
37
HOLIDAY
GIFTS FOR THE
DIY HOMEOWNER
T
he holidays seem to arrive sooner every year, so there's no time like the present to organize
your shopping list for friends and family. This year, consider the type of gifts that keep on
giving: new tools! The EHT staff has compiled our annual list of workshop gadgetssome big,
some smallto brighten the face of your favorite DIYer. Make your list, check it twice, and have
a wonderful holiday season.
38
WERNER PODIUM
LADDER
CHANNELLOCK
PROFESSIONAL
SCREWDRIVERS
Channellock Inc., a family-owned

and -operated hand tool manufacturer since 1886, has introduced the new Professional
Screwdrivers, a line of slotted,
Phillips, Torx and nut drivers
designed and manufactured
in the U.S. to meet the needs
of the professional trades and
serious DIY'ers. The new line
will include 46 different tool
offerings, including a six-in-one
multi-bit driver designed with a
four-sided, acetate handle that
delivers greater torque than
competing drivers with six- or
eight-sided handles. Additionally,
the new screwdriver handles
are solvent-resistant, impactresistant and superior in
strength to molded designs.
The precision-machined shaft
and chrome-coated alloy steel
blades ensure full fastener
engagement, and chrome
plating protects against
corrosion. Visit
www.channellock.com.
40
The Werner Podium Ladder is

designed to provide 4X greater
work zone than a typical stepladder, allowing you to face
any direction. One of the most
significant benefits of this design
is how easily it allows the user
to reach traditionally difficult
areas by providing greater range
of motion, which maximizes productivity. The extended guardrail
and larger platform surface also
delivers more comfort for the professional user who is often
required to stand on a ladder for
prolonged periods of time. The
new Podium guardrail uses the
HolsterTop Pro design that securely and conveniently organizes
tools and accessories at the top
of the ladder. The functional top
serves as a wraparound guardrail
for total freedom of movement.
The Podium also features the
newly designed Edge360 bracing
system that increases the size of
the ladder foot pad, braces the
first step and provides protection
at every angle. Visit
us.wernerco.com.
VETO PRO PAC

MC TOOL BAG
Veto Pro Pac, a leader in professional-grade tool bags, has

launched the MC, the smallest
and lightest tool bag in the Veto
Pro Pac line. With 20 interior and
exterior denier nylon pockets, the
MC is 12-1/2 inches high, 10
inches long and 8 inches wide
perfect for troubleshooting, diagnostics and job-specific setups.
DEWALT PREMIUM TAPES
DeWalt's new family of Premium

Tapes, are "Guaranteed Tough"
and built to take a beating on
harsh jobsite conditions. The new
16-, 25- and 35-ft. tape measures
are ideal for heavy-duty framing
and other construction measuring
tasks. The tapes feature reinforced housing and a cast-metal
impact plate to absorb shocks
when dropped to protect internal
components and the end hook.
Extensive rubber over-molding
covers all contact points of the
tapes for improved grip. Plus,
a 13-ft. blade standout allows
unaided measuring from a distance or overhead without the
tapes bending or collapsing while
extended. Visit www.dewalt.com.
tamper-proof or unique heads,

such as a Torx screw. Made of
high-quality carbon steel, they
have a smooth varnished finish
and utilize an environmentally
friendly elastomer for ergonomic
grips. VamPLIERS are great
for professionals and DIYers
to achieve the perfect "bite"
around the screw's head. Visit
www.vampiretools.com.
VAMPLIERS
The MC features a lighter webbed

handle with Veto Pro Pacs classic
over-molded grip. A front storage
bay holds hand tools of many
sizes. The back storage bay
accommodates meters and compact cordless drills/drivers. Veto
Pro Pacs signature heavy-duty
3mm thick polypropylene base
keeps the bag dry, protected, and
stable in four-season climates.
An extraordinary pair of pliers that

incorporates patented and awardwinning technology to solve screwextraction problems, VamPLIERS
Pro have uniquely designed and
patented concave jaws. The vertical and horizontal serrations
inside the jaws make it possible to
grab onto a small stripped/rusted/corroded screw or rounded nut
for extraction. VamPLIERS Pro will
work on screws that have special,
41
MAKITA XSH01Z 36V

CIRCULAR SAW
Makita's new XSH01Z is the

world's first 7-1/4-in. circular
saw powered by two 18V lithiumion batteries, which deliver the
cutting performance of a corded
saw. The Makita-built motor
delivers 4,800 RPM for fast
cutting and ripping, providing
up to 250 cuts per charge. The
7-1/4-in. blade cuts 2-5/8 inches at 90 degrees, and the saw
bevels 50 degrees. The L.E.D.
TREEMOTE
This holiday season, use the new

Treemote to avoid crawling under
or behind your Christmas tree to
turn the lights on and off, which
can be a hassleeven dangerous. Now with Treemote's wireless remote technology, the task
is easy, safe and convenient.
The device is simple to install
and easy to use. Just plug the
Treemote receiver into the outlet
that you want to use. Plug your
string of lights into the receiver,
and thats it. Now with the
Treemotes Christmas treeshaped remote you can control
your lights from any room in the
house. After Christmas, store it
with your decorations, or use it
all year round on any hard-toreach light or small appliance.
Underwriters Laboratories-listed
and FCC-compliant, the Treemote
comes with battery included.
Visit www.treemote.com.
42
RYOBI 14" RY40511

CORDLESS CHAINSAW
The Ryobi 14-in. Cordless

Chainsaw boasts the power
of a gas-driven tool by using a
brushless motor for higher
torque and increased chain
speed. With a 14-in. bar and
chain and a 24-in. cutting
capacity, its cutting speed rivals
that of a gas chainsaw. Sideaccess chain tensioning and
on-board tool storage offer
user convenience. Other features include an automatic oiler
and a variable-speed trigger. It
starts quickly and easily, without
the hassle of gas and oil. The
Cordless Chainsaw is powered
by a 40V lithium-ion battery that
works with any Ryobi 40V tool.
Visit www.ryobitools.com.
battery and temperature indicators monitor charge stats and

temperature, and a reinforced
magnesium base ensures
jobsite durability. Visit
www.makitatools.com.
GENERAL CORDLESS
PRECISION ENGRAVER
(505)
Generals Cordless Precision
Engraver features a 3/32-in.
diamond-tipped engraving
bit and a 20,000-rpm motor.
It is powerful enough to
engrave glass, metal,
ceramic, plastic and wood.
The engravers improved
gearing boosts torque to
facilitate smoother, more
consistent scribing.
Additionally, the tools
aluminum body offers
superior durability while
the unique tri-lobe ergonomic grip provides the
ultimate in comfort and
ease of use. Visit
www.generaltools.com.
No more makeshift tables

Easy setup and portable
Hangs on 48" centers
Great for your shop or garage
GENERAL LIGHTED
PRECISION
SCREWDRIVER
(75108)
Generals Lighted Precision

Screwdriver is a must-have for
every DIY toolbox. It contains a
convenient storage compartment
for the included reversible bits,
making it easy to keep all of the
bits together in the handle at all
VAC120, which features an exclusive Micro Filter System, based on

advanced automotive technology,
to trap 98 percent of dust particles (as small as 1/2 micron in
diameter). Weighing just 1.55
pounds and measuring 11 inches
long, the VAC120s crevice nozzle
attachment makes cleanup in
tight or confined spaces, such
as around electrical outlets or
drains, a breeze. The flat filter
design allows for a larger 11.8ounce canister volume, which
means less frequent clean-outs
and more time working. Visit
www.boschtools.com.
RYOBI P2170
HYBRID BLOWER
times, reducing the risk of lost or

misplaced parts. The precision
engineered Versa-Grip handle
provides maximum comfort
and performance, while integral
LEDs shed light directly on the
screw-head work area in a
360-degree pattern. Visit
www.generaltools.com.
BOSCH VAC120
HANDHELD VACUUM
The Bosch VAC120 is the company's first handheld vacuum,

combining compact design with
best-in-class performance. Saw
shavings, dirt and dust dont
stand a chance
with the 12V
Max
44
The Ryobi Hybrid Blower provides

limitless power and mobility with
two power sourcescordless and
electricfor versatile lawn maintenance. Running at 150 mph and
200 cfm, the Hybrid Blower is
ideal for blowing dry leaves and
debris on hard surfaces. Part of
the 18V One+ system, the Hybrid

Blower is powered by an 18V lithium-ion battery that works with any
Ryobi 18V tool. Visit
www.ryobitools.com.
GENERAL CIRCUIT
BREAKER FINDER (BF20)
Generals Circuit Breaker Finder

includes a Non-Contact Volt
Detector and GFCI Outlet Checker,
providing a safe way to determine
whether a line, cable or 110VAC
outlet is hot (energized). The
tool automatically locates the
breaker or fuse associated with
any 110-volt outlet without tripping the breaker or blowing the

fuse. It has the ability to indicate
five common outlet wiring faults in
GFCI and non-GFCI outlets, and it
can verify the operation of any
GFCI circuits interrupting power.
Visit www.generaltools.com.
HYDE 17-IN-1
PAINTER'S TOOL
Carrying tools around the house

or worse yet, struggling to find
tools on a work sitecan really
slow things down. Eliminate the
hassle with the new Hyde 17-in-1
Painters Tool. Made from durable
.075-in. thick carbon steel, Hydes
newest tool combines the companys trademark high-quality, lightweight design with with features
that are especially helpful for
painting, from the wrenches you
need to connect an airless spray
hose to regular and mini-roller
cleaners. The 17 uses: 1.
scrape paint, 2. spread
compound, 3. open
cracks, 4. pull nails,
5. set nails, 6. open
cans, 7. open
bottles,
8. clean regular rollers, and 9.

clean mini rollers. The 10th and
11th use are the 3/4- and 11/16in. wrenches you need to connect
your whip hose to both your spray
gun and your main airless hose.
For the other six uses, just look
to the handle and underneath
the Hammer Head end. Numbers
11-14 consist of four different
screwdriver bits that are securely
stored within the handle and
insert into the handle end for
quick, easy use. Also hidden
beneath the Hammer Head end
is a tool that can be used as
either a scribe or a nail set.
Visit www.hydetools.com.
IRWIN VISE-GRIP PLIERS

WITH POWERSLOT
Irwin Tools has expanded the

Vise-Grip category with a variety
of new cutting pliers that provide
superior comfort, durability and
cutting power. The new line features Max Leverage Diagonal
POWERCUBE
that takes oil paint, dirt, grease

and grime off just about anything
in seconds without using chemicals! Slip one on and dip it in mild
soapy water to clean everything
from your camper and ATV to your
oven, shower, painting tools and
more. Grease on your hands?
Clean them fast with no harsh
cleansers or chemicals required.
Visit www. hydetools.com.
Often it's difficult to access a nearby available power outlet to charge

your tool batteries, notebook orcell
phone. The PowerCube allows you
to mount multiple power sockets
whereit's most convenient. The
number of outlets can be expanded
according to your needs, creating
atailored power source within
reach. The PowerCube is modular:
you can create the setup you prefer
by adding more PowerCubes to the
PowerCube Extended mounted on
your desktop. The Extended versions of the PowerCube come with
a mounting dock, enabling you to
mount it anywhere, includingupside-down underneath your desk,
or on a wall. Plus, it's easy to relocate with removable tape. Each
plug connects to a different side
of the PowerCube so that plugs
can't obstruct each other. The
USB-versions of the PowerCube
come with powered dual USB
ports, each unit is tested up to
15A (the industry standard) and
also contains a resettable fuse.
Visit powercube-usa.com. EHT
Cutting Pliers and End Cutting

Pliers, which are equipped with
PowerSlot Technology for twice the
cutting power and half the effort.
The ErgoMulti Long Nose Pliers
are designed with an angled head
for reduced wrist strain. The complete range of new products also
includes Linemans Pliers, Long
Nose Pliers, Bent Nose Pliers and
a patented Performance Lanyard
system. Visit www.irwin.com.
HYDE QUICKLY
CLEAN GLOVE
Priced at a reasonable $5, a

patented weave turns this miracle
glove into an all-purpose scrubber
45
48
ARTIFICIAL
STONE
UP CLOSE
Lightweight and easy to install,

artificial stone is a popular
alternative building material.
By Monte Burch
hen the first caveman rolled a stone in front of his cave

to keep out the animals, stone became a building material. Stone has continued to be a popular construction
material throughout the ages, and is just as popular today. These
days, however, artificial stone has become increasingly popular.
Weight is one reason. Less dense and lighter in weight than natural stone, manufactured stone is easier to handle, store and
install. Less weight also means artificial stone can be applied in
more areas, and with less support, than would be required for
natural stone. Yet, the material has all the beauty of natural
stone.
The selection of artificial stone styles is also greater than natural stone on a local basis. Artificial stone allows you to utilize
styles not commonly found all across the country. These include
polished river rock, fieldstone, ledgerock and even simulated
quarried stone. The latter is much more economical than natural
quarried stone. In fact, selection of the style and color can be
confusing with all the possibilities available. The artificial stone
being shown in this article is Dutch Quality Stone, in fieldstone
style (www.dutchqualitystone.com).
In the project detailed in this article, a fireplace with chimney
was constructed of concrete block. The fireplace was faced with
natural fieldstone, but not enough was available for the tall, two
and half-story chimney. Artificial fieldstone was selected to
match the fireplace stone. The homeowners added a few natural
49
ARTIFICIAL
STONE
UP CLOSE
stones to help blend the chimney

with the fireplace. Before you
choose the product and decide to
install the stone, check out the
various products available, as well
as the various manufacturers
installation manuals available.
As with natural stone, the installation technique is fairly simple,
but hard work. One advantage is
you can work a little at a time,
which is actually the best tactic
for most installations. Installing
artificial stone is a lot of fun and
allows you to be really creative,
resulting in a beautiful project
youll not only be proud to show
off, but will add value to your
home.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
You will need a few masonry

tools, including safety glasses,
wheelbarrow, mixing hoe, hock
and masons trowels. The hock is
to hold the mortar, but a plastic
bucket can be used to transport
and hold the mortar if youre working on a scaffold and ladder for a
high project such as the chimney.
You will also need a metal jointing
tool (a wooden dowel, or better
yet, a large, round-headed bolt),
a grout bag and whisk broom.
Even artificial stone is cumbersome, and you will also be toting

and working with mortar. Sturdy
scaffolding is necessary for high
jobs such as this chimney.
50
Several plastic buckets and soft

rags are also handy. And youll
need a tape measure, level and
other basic woodworking tools.
Artificial stone can be cut with
masonry wide-mouth nippers, a
hatchet, masons chisel and hammer, a masonry cut-off saw, or
using a masonry blade in an angle
grinder. Make sure you wear eye
protection, and for the latter two
youll also need a dust mask. All
cutting chores should be done
outside.
After determining the style and
type of stone desired, the next
step is to estimate the amount of
materials needed. Artificial stone
typically comes in boxes of flats
and corners. The latter are Lshaped to wrap around outside
corners and create the illusion of
full stones. Measure the length
and width of the project and multiply the measurement to determine
the square footage. Then measure
the linear feet of the outside corners. You will also need to know
the square footage of the corner
pieces, according to the specific
manufacturer. For example, one
linear foot of Owens Corning
Cultured Stone corner piece covers 3/4 of a square foot of flat
area (www.culturedstone.com),
whereas one linear foot of Dutch
Quality Stone covers 1/2 square
foot. Subtract the flat area of the
corners from the square footage
of the flats required. Subtract
the square footage of any doors,
windows and other openings.
Its a good idea to add about
10 percent extra materials for
cutting, trimming and fitting. Its
also important to know if the
style chosen is sold based on
the coverage with a standard
1/2-inch mortar joint, or tightfitted such as ledgerock. In
addition to the stone youll need
Type N Mortar, mortar color
The product chosen for this chimney project is Dutch Quality Stone
in Pennsylvania Field Stone to
match the natural stone fireplace.
The proper mortar mix is extremely important for a good masonry
job. If using mortar components,
first measure out and mix the dry
materials. Then add water a little
at a time, mixing the dry materials
into the water and wet mix. A
wheelbarrow and masons hoe
can be used.
(if desired), aggregates (sand) or

premixed Type N mortar and
potable water.
Artificial stone may be applied
to any number of interior or exterior surfaces. A weather-resistant
barrier must be used on all exterior and interior mortar applications,
except for those over masonry and
concrete. Make sure you follow
local building code requirements
for installation of the materials,
including the waterproof barrier.
If installing on surfaces other than
masonry or concrete, a mesh or
metal lath must be applied over
ARTIFICIAL
STONE
UP CLOSE
the water barrier. All exterior surfaces must have flashing installed
at water entrances, and the finished edge of applied stone must
be a minimum of 4 inches above
an earth grade or 2 inches above
concrete. Before applying the
stones, read and make sure you
In many instances youll need to

add mortar color to the mortar
mix.
The mortar consistency should be

stiff enough that the mortar wont
slump back down when pulled up
with the hoe, yet not too dry and
crumbly or soupy.
Many artificial stone products

come with corners consisting of
a short and long leg. When positioned, these give the appearance
of a full stone used for the corner.
jobs individual components may

be the best choice. The proportions of a standard mortar mix is
either Portland Cement or Blended
Cement and hydrated lime, mixed
one part to 4-1/2 to 6 parts aggregate. An easier mix is one part
Type N Masonry Cement to 2-1/2
to 3 parts aggregate. I normally
simply count shovels of the latter,
using a masonry shovel. Dont mix
more mortar than you can use in
30 to 45 minutes. I normally use
one shovel of Type N Mortar
Cement to three shovels of sand.
If you have help, you might double
this mix. The materials are placed
in a wheelbarrow and thoroughly
mixed while dry using a masonry
hoe, which has holes in it to allow
A Crete Sheet, a heavy-duty

plastic sheet with handles, makes
mixing small mortar batches quick
and easy.
follow all of the manufacturers
installation instructions.
INSTALLATION BASICS
Alternate lifting the handles to mix

the materials. Cleanup is also fast
and easy.
52
Yes, there is an art to laying

stone, whether natural or artificial.
Artificial stone commonly comes
boxed, and the first step is to lay
out the stones so you can readily
see all the sizes, shapes and colors. In most instances youll want
to lay the stones with a variety of
sizes and colors in the overall
design. Use small stones near
large ones, varying the textures
and sizes. Get everything ready,
including tools, ladders and other
supplies.
One of the most important keys
to any type of masonry job is properly mixing the mortar. You can
use premixed mortar, but on larger
Artificial stones also come as

flats, and its important to
spread out all the stones for
the project so you have a good
variety to pick from as you set
the stones in place.
Before setting a stone, lay
it dry and check it for fit.
Mortar can be applied in several

ways. A scratch coat or thin layer
can first be applied with a mason
trowel to some surfaces. This can
also be used as the setting mortar in some instances.
for quicker and easier mixing of
the materials.
Once the dry material is evenly
mixed, add the water a little at a
time. If using mortar color, add the
proper amount of mortar color to
the first batch of water and thoroughly mix. Then add this to the dry
mix. Using the hoe, incorporate the
water into a bit of the dry mix until
thoroughly blended. Then either
add more water or pull in more of
the dry mix with the hoe and continue mixing until the entire batch
is evenly mixed. The proper amount
of water is important. Too little
water and the mortar will be crumbly and dry. Too much water and
the mix will be soupy, messy and
wont hold the stones properly. A

proper mix will be firm, yet moist. It
will stay when pulled up with the
hoe and will not slump down. Or,
pick up the mortar with a trowel
and turn the trowel sideways. The
mortar should not slide or run off.
Allow the mortar mix to set for
about 10 minutes before use.
Now youre ready to apply the
mortar and set the stones. The
mortar and stone pieces can be
applied in two methods. In some
instances the mortar and stones
can be applied from the top down,
and this does help in keeping the
set stones clean. Most of us less
experienced masons, however, will
have better luck setting stones
from the bottom up. This is particularly so with corner stones.
If installing over metal lath, use a
masons trowel to apply the mortar
in a 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick layer
scratch coat. Its important not to
spread too much mortar or it may
set up before you can apply the
stones. On smooth masonry surfaces, such as concrete or concrete
blocks, the mortar will have the
frustrating tendency to slump down
and fall off. One tactic is to fling
small handfuls of mortar onto the
surface, then trowel smooth to
obtain the thickness needed. Its
messy, but it works. The easiest
The stone is set in this mortar. In

most instances its easiest to set
the stones from the bottom up,
although this method requires
more cleanup.
Gently wiggle to force some mortar out around the edges. Do not
apply force or you will push too
much mortar from behind the
stone causing it to loosen.
EASY INSTALLATION FOR GENUINE STONE
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alternative to composite/faux stone products. The systems modular
design makes installation easier than using individual pieces because
you can cover a greater surface area in much less time. This reduces
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is a green productsustainable, natural, and produced using
reclaimed stone and VOC-free adhesive. Learn more at www.realstonesystems.com.
53
ARTIFICIAL
STONE
UP CLOSE
Another method, and a less messy

method, is to butter the back of
the stones with mortar using a
trowel.
Then set the mortar stones in
place. In hot weather, dampen the
setting surface and the back of
the stone with a light spray of
water.
method is to use a masons trowel to butter the back of the

stone with mortar and then press
the stone in place. Its important
to have complete coverage
between the mortar bed and the
back surface of the stone. With
the mortar and/or stone in place,
gently press the selected stone
against and into the mortar.
Wiggle the stone slightly to force a
bit of mortar out around the
edges of the stone. Dont press
too hard or youll push the mortar
out from behind the stone.
Regardless of the method
used, it takes a bit of practice.
Joint width in many cases should
average about 1/2 inch. This will,
54
of course, vary with the style of

stone used. Fieldstone looks better with more variance, and its
also harder to precisely fit these
shapes. A looser look has a
more natural appearance. On
some styles, however, its important to keep mortar joints as
consistent as possible. Fit larger
pieces first, and then fit in smaller pieces.
You may need to cut some
stones to fit, especially with styles
other than fieldstone. Stones can
be cut using wide-mouthed nippers, or a hatchet. A masonry
blade in an angle grinder can
also be used. Or use a powered
masons cut-off saw. Always wear
safety glasses and a dust mask.
Place mortar on the cut edges
and, if possible, position the cut
edges so they wont be visible, for
instance above or below eye-level.
For materials such as ledgestone, the stones are fit tightly
together. If laying such a tight-fitting style, the scratch coat must
be completely covered with a bed
of mortar, not only to conceal the
scratch coat, but to prevent creating open spaces that can trap
water. Try not to get mortar on
the front surface of the stones.
Unlike real stone, artificial stone
is painted and abrasive methods
normally used to remove mortar
could remove the paint.
Keep a bucket of water and

clean rags on hand to wash mortar off your hands and help keep
the stone surfaces clean.
Corners are set first.
The short and long legs of the

corners should alternate as they
are set.
Allow the smears or clumps of
mortar to dry, and then use a
whisk broom to gently brush off
the mortar. In hot or dry weather,
moisten the back of each stone
with a fine spray of water or a
wet brush. If installing over concrete, masonry or a scratch coat,
dampen the area before applying
the mortar. If corner stones are
used, such as on the chimney
shown, apply them first. Be sure
ARTIFICIAL
STONE
UP CLOSE
Artificial stone can be cut using

several methods. A masonry blade
in an angle grinder can be used
to cut or score the stone.
An axe, wide-mouth nippers or
masons hammer and/or chisel
can also be used to finish the
score, or to cut the stone. Wear
eye protection and a dust mask.
to alternate the faces of the corner stones with the long and
short legs running opposite directions. After the corner stones are
applied, work toward the center
of the wall with the flat stones.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Allow the mortar to set until

you can just create a thumb-print
with some pressure. The time will
vary according to weather and
temperature conditions. Use a
jointing tool, or the round head
of a bolt, to scrape away sharp
edges and round the inside of
the joint. Do not remove too
much mortar, nor undercut the
stones. You may also need to add
mortar to the joints, especially if
56
you have applied the stones with

mortar on their backs. A mortar
bag, similar to a cake-decorating
bag, is used to inject mortar into
the joints. Once the mortar joints
have set sufficiently, use a brush
or whisk broom to remove excess
mortar. In most cases water
should not be used to remove
mortar as it can cause staining of
the surface. Do not use power
washing or wire-brushes for
cleaning.
Different styles of stones also
require some additional installation techniques. Styles such as
quarried stones require level,
plumb and precisely-even joint
Force the mortar into the joints.

lines. Long, rectangular pieces
look best laid horizontally. River
rock styles should not be cut if
possible to maintain a natural
look. Ledgestone styles should
be laid as tightly as possible, and
joints as deeply as possible, but
not exposing the scratch coat or
back edges of the stones. Mortar
can also be tinted to match the
Make sure all water entrance

areas are properly flashed.
Mortar joints can be filled with a
grout bag. Use a fairly soupy mix.
A jointing tool or round-headed

bolt can be used to scrape out
excess mortar. Then use a whisk
broom to clean up loosened
mortar and splatters.
stones to help con-ceal the joints. In

addition to the corner and flat stones,
a wide variety of finish stones are
available including: window and door
trim, keystones, and even receptacle,
light and water hydrant blocks with
openings for these utilities.
With a little practice and your first
project, youll probably be looking for
other projects for this fun and beautiful
building material. EHT
Shown is the
completed project.
57
MATERIAL MARKET
Grid Guidelines for a Great Look

Specifying Aesthetically Pleasing Grids for Windows
elements are to achieve balance
with the grids and to select grid
patterns that are aesthetically pleasing. Fortunately there are some
tips to help even a novice correctly
specify window grids.
TIPS FOR SUCCESS
Simonton offers these suggestions for understanding grids and

how to specify them for windows:
hether youre ordering

windows for a new home
or considering replacing
windows in an existing house,
sooner or later youre going to
have to make a decision on grids.
Think its a no-brainer? Think
again. There are some definite
considerations that should be
taken into account when determining the configuration, color
and style for window grids.
Decisions you make on grids
can positively (or negatively) affect
the overall look on both the
homes exterior and interior. For
older homes, you may need to
capture the historic character
of the homes style with grids
fashioned to complement a
58
Tip #1 Know where the grids

are located. Different window
manufacturers attach grids in
different ways to a window. The
most popular ways are to place
the grids between the panes of
glass (which eliminates cleaning
hassles), to affix the grids on top
of the glass with an adhesive, or to
have snap-in grids that are slipped
into grooves at the top and bottom
of the units.
previous era. For newer homes,

youll want to consider if the
window grids should be a design
accent for the home, pull-together
the architectural theme of the
house and/or provide continuity of
adjoining windows within a room
or from one room to another.
Grids can be considered the
cherry on top of the sundae for
windows in the home, according
to the experts at Simonton
Windows. Anyone can go with
clear glass windows and eliminate
grid decisions by ordering plain
glass. However, those people may
sacrifice style and an important
design detail on the home.
For those individuals who want
grids on their windows, the key
Tip #2 Consider the size of

the window. If a window looks too
large for a room or you want to
accent the unit, its time to think
about grids. Basically, grids (which
can sometimes be called grills,
grilles or muntins) divide a large
window into smaller viewing units,
called lites.
Tip #3 Know your terms.

Vertical grids go in an up and
down direction on the glass of the
window. Horizontal grids go side
to side on the glass. You dont
necessarily need to have both
vertical and horizontal grids in a
window. Also, remember that the
meeting rail (the horizontal portion
of a Double or Single Hung window
where the sashes come together)
MATERIAL MARKET
also provides a visual break in
the lines of the windowbasically
between the top and bottom sash.
This meeting rail acts as a horizontal grid in these types of windows.
Tip #4 Understand your grid
locations. Grids are defined within
the sash of a window. For example, a Casement window has only
one sash, while a Double Hung
window has both a top and bottom
sash. On the Double Hung, you
may choose to have grids on both
sash, on the top sash only, or on
the bottom sash and not the top.
Tip #5 Think of the whole

house. Generally, grid patterns
should match in all the windows
on the same floor and on the
same side of the house. This way,
when you view the home from the
exterior, you have a
unified look.
Tip #6 Visualize a grid. Take a

sheet of notebook paper and bend
it in half. The resulting size shows
the average size of glass surrounded by grids. Lites in grid patterns
should not generally be smaller
than 8 inches in width and 6 inches in height. The larger the window
60
size, the more lites of glass can

be created using grids.
The Rule of Rectangles is good
to keep in mind when determining
grid configurations. This rule of
thumb generally states that less
is best and that grids should be
proportional to a windows size.
Some guidelines for the best
matches for window grids are:
Square window =
Square pattern
Rectangular window =
Rectangular pattern
As a cautionary warning, make
sure to use the proper terminology
when ordering window grids.
Someone who has been in the
window business may describe a
pattern showing six lites of glass
on the top of a double hung and
six lites of glass on the bottom as
a six over six window. However,
in todays window ordering system,
this description would result in a
checker box look that creates 36
small lites on the top of the sash
and 36 small lites on the bottom
of the glass! The correct way to
specify this order would be to say
1V2H (All). This indicates that
you want one vertical grid and two

horizontal grids on both of the
sash, which would create a six
over six look on the window.
ALL ABOUT STYLE
Grids themselves can be thin,

flat, sculptured, grooved or even
round. Different window manufacturers offer a variety of selections. In
general, the more popular and common grids in a home are either flat
grids or sculptured grids.
Once the grid style itself has
been determined, the next step is
to decide on the configuration of
the grids. A large assortment of
patterns exists that complement
the style of most homes. The most
common style of grid pattern is a
Colonial Square pattern with an
equal number of square or rectangle grids on both the top and bottom of the windows sash.
A variation of the Colonial
Square is the Cross Square. This
simple style involves one vertical
and one horizontal grid on the top
half of a sash, creating a cross
effect. For a Victorian style home,
a Victorian grid style may work
best. This involves one horizontal
grid at the uppermost area of the
window sash separated by several
short vertical grids.
With todays keen interest in
Arts and Crafts style homes, both
the Perimeter and Prairie style window grids have seen a growth in
popularity. Both feature grids
around the perimeter of the window intersecting at the top and
bottom. For the Perimeter style, the
grid encompasses the full window
unit; for the Prairie style the grid
encompasses each sash.
For a striking accent window or
to complement an English Tudor
style of home, a Diamond grid window is ideal. The grids are placed
on an angle, to simulate diamond
patterns on the entire
surface of the window.
HELPFUL HINTS
With years of experience behind

them, the customer service representatives at Simonton Windows offer the
following helpful hints for determining
where grids will go in a window and
how theyll look:
Hint #1 Make a mock-up. Before

ordering grids, consider making a
mock-up by applying masking tape to
the glass of the windows where you
think youd like to have the grids. This
way you can see where the grids would
be and can make changes. Make sure
to use tan masking tape. If you use
blue painters tape, the blue color will
blend with the sky and you wont get
the full impact of the grids.
Hint #2 Go with the flow. If you

already have a grid pattern established
in the home and youre just replacing
a few windows, continue with the existing grid pattern to maintain overall eye
appeal for the home.
Hint #3 Picture windows have

special needs. If you have a picture
window that showcases a spectacular
view, consider leaving it without any
grids. This works especially well if you
have side windows with grids flanking
the Picture window.
Hint #4 Check out the neighborhood. Drive around and look at different windows in the homes of your
neighbors. This can help you determine the difference grids can make to
the overall appearance of a home and
how you like different styles of grids.
Hint #5 Match or contrast. You

may want to either match the color of
the grids to the frame of the window
for a unified look, or boldly select a
grid that strikingly contrasts the frame.
Ask the window manufacturer youre
purchasing from what options exist.
Many companies have standard color
grids along with woodgrain and metallic options. EHT
61

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Your House is a System | Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

Holiday Digital 2014

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32 Your House is a System

38 Holiday Gifts for

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own

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Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes

Imagination, time and specialty

magination and a few specialty

One of the most dramatic

paint-on, are available in two styles,

In both instances, make sure

To create this crackle finish, a

sure the coating is smooth and

overnight. For a Porcelain Crackle,

The crackle glaze is applied

In this case a plum-colored top

Weathered Crackle is applied in

the surface using a quality nylon

The crackle finish can be almost

The tan color was then used

One of the most popular finishes

be flat sheen paint. Any other

A latex trim paint is applied.

The Ultimate Screw Extractor! Rusted, Stripped, Stuck...No Problem!

the top coat will begin to separate

The popular rubbed finish is

The OAK 70.XTRA

The Oak 70.XTRA is an adjustable premier series spiral staircase that

Powder coat finished painted in either Hi-Gloss Black or Hi-Gloss White.

One of the traditional fun finishes

Limed oak is a very popular finish

MAGNETIC PAINTBRUSH HOLDER

White latex paint mixed with water

Polyurethane varnish is then

The antiqued finish has been

First step in using spray paints

to the cleaned wood surface using

If you havent walked down the

Some of the most interesting and

A very popular and simple

In this case Rust-Oleum MultiColor

Furniture is not the only household items that can be

Todays spray paints can create

include Textured Stone, Rag

While still wet, a foam brush is

Rub the edges with a soft cloth,

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Rust-Oleum Pure Gold Metallic

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Heating Your Home with

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And, firewood is usually more economical to

When wood burns, water evaporates from

Burning wood safely requires

The different species of wood

of wood to zero. Twenty percent