Perfect fix for a Super-insulate your be CNL Ng damaged ceiling attic & save $1,000! Gift Guide Tools, tools & fa ae Wd poe enel rad | Masterpiece .__ = stele pens V ee Paint your kitchen cabinets Get a $20,000 remodel for $200 and a weekend 4. (Se RET Ty PiU Tee Ti Ue at eC Crd Ben ray for buying new windows— and when it pays to fix the old ones DUA aes PIS eu aR WNVINN taeove Pots ZUEH TABLE OF CONTENTS ECE MBERAAMLARY 2010 VOLUME 60, 10.10, S4tmEDIION Features 30 Masterpiece bookcase You won't believe how easy it is to build, even in a small shop. 43 Boost attic insulation Save $1,000 now, cut heating, and cooling costs forever. 50 Paint kitchen cabinets Careful prep and an inexpensive sprayer can give you a fast, flawless finish 58 New windows? ‘The straight scoop on what you'll gain—and how to tell if you need them. g ~ 78 Departments 6 Home Care & Repair 49 Reader Projects 76 Instant Projects Spray-texture a stained ceiling. An out-of-the-way grinder Make an indoor hopscotch mat eee ‘and an entertainment center for those “nothing to do!” days. New Tools & Gear | built from furked Furniture, ‘An ultra-quiet shop vacuum, 78 Holiday Handy Hints? wrecking bars and more. 66 Dollar Savy Homeowner Every tree headache—solved! ‘Take advantage of federal e Car & Garage tex credits for energy-related 86 Wordless Workshop Great gifts for folks fascinated home improvements, Eubite tas fee et by torque and leverage. Check out this log slice holder. : ” 7) Question & Comment ; 26 Shop Rat Freozo-proof crawl space pipes, 88 Great Goofs’ A workshop-cleaning robot refrigerator in the garage and Parking on an icy hill—and and super hearing protection. OSB vs. plywood. other not-so-slick ideas. thetamitynanayman.com Oscenbersanan2010 1TABLE OF AEN thefamilyhandyman.com > New Video: Prep a wall for painting Discover how to pre- pare walls for painting so you can achieve a flawless finish. You'll learn how to fill nail holes and fix damaged drywall, and dis- cover tricks for caulking corners and eliminating unsightly cracks, vet > Insulate your basement > Energy audit > Replacement windows > Install a dimmer switch > The Tool Blog Our editors share their thoughts about tools and gear—and you can add your two cents as well! yet Tofind any of these articles after Jan. 15, 2010, go to “Web Article Archive” on our home page. Questions about subscriptions? Fer new ang scot, ctargect aes cep ‘ntha uct tree Te Far Handyman Sutreber Serve Dept fox aia rn SSI ‘el (000) 205406 Oseneusane mast Fraenetrcm All watues oes changes. Customer information Peserstgest may sate nematen abit yu wire Uablecorsaiesso they canara oats Teese ely rere aut wants ‘Saetasitaratonplesewnteteade see aig Us tn rte esis Rog Pea W T0570 Pease nut capa yu area Back issues/article copies | Sone gas ost avloblfersSaexh Protcerlesofarisae dale er $0000 Ca 71) ests eriBam tos ental Mendy treigh Fc fer eat red rere ow ‘Back issues The ary gyro Pov acess sia 35089-0595 Oren ‘saneenalatfamifaneymardeemancson Comments and suggestions Weve deaerdennrs WH an ‘Theor, TheFamly Handyman oa Bsconmas Ste 00, 4, ap annn a o) 04220, } Erna edtosBtetonipsnemara 2 cecerbevianey2090. 40 [ Contributor Guidetines ‘We 937 $100 for Hany int", Grest Coote”, Sheo Tipsand Wordless workshop” svbrssons hat we pubis Subrt your ongralcontibuton alone wth [hotos or sketches by evil PRenayhsnsethelamiynanayinan com | Eeatgpotsetnetemismansmen com Shoptauathelantynanaymancom ‘soraessithetamiynanynan com ‘nystorysthelamiymanchman com ‘ma to The Femi Handyman, $515 Carmners ore, Suite 700, Eagan, MN S812) sires ande- Pleas include your name, malin ‘mol edares't you nave one, andinalsteto which ‘Separimant you stesusroting Wereseve te ‘ge to publ your submission! any savaoriate ‘Separtment. we recawveseniay submissions, we ‘nipay te Betsan we sabre te tem no setae ose cy suming mata (text, photos and itustra- fons Yor aubieaton, you grant Home Servet Pubeatons inc, ts pare comosny.subsibaies, liliates portne’ and leersees united ute of {hemstensl ana your name, on he nih to erie ‘rmodiy produce and stroute the mater in {ny and aed and any mane or apres ‘st lace We may contact you via phone. ema ‘ema regnding your subsmeson we ele your Somsnon opr you wil receive S100 Join au Reader Feedback Panel and give us you" epniens about the magazine As 8 nr bor youcan tellus what you ike and wt you rit the, ad share your leas for stoves thet ‘ouldinterest you “Tolon the Reader Feedback Pane! goto thotamiyrandyman.com/panel sn som plete the bre! questonnave Thats al theres tort Tren youean spaut off all you want and ‘share you opinans on ou occasions online Surveys Thankstor your asp and we ook foe | ‘Warate Rearing romyou soon! | Volunteers needed ‘We're looong for Dieter us make The Family ranayman better Become a TPA els (stor whether youre a navies Or or veteran, ‘retreat gare yu eprsons ond {hetamynandymancom.Pees asa Bate) maa) ‘mun hemiscusitatinacor Vs ther webste ct worwnihehouse.com for recaps of he show & other heotulingo sc Eh rh yn Sear Copy Elior teats oma nina a et ea Mead sant hres Croneges apn NSS Seba ea, 20 i a eres eee Ech Dincet Pa Uren eS igh FST Amt Buon cs ti ing i eee ee see scene ‘ck The Foal Waneymon, Husa Hit and i fe vc oa ee Sige eian wien @ 4 decebaamy2010ife: spray-textured ceiling is just dingy or stained, you can renew it with a coat each of sealer and paint. But if the texture is falling off or miss- ing in spots, you'll have to reapply tex- ture to fix the problem. For small aroas, say less than a foot in diameter, you could try using an aerossl can of repair texture, But the patch is bound to stick out like a sore thuntb. For the best results, you're better off respray- ing the entire ceiling, It's a messy job, but it’s not hard to do, In fact, after you spray one room, you'll probably want to keep going, You can spray-texture unsightly plaster or smooth drywall ceilings too. As with most jobs, the key 1s in the prep work, which is the time- consuming part too. Once the room is masked off, the ceiling prepped and the texture mixed, it'll only take you about 15 minutes to spray the ceiling. If any of the paper drywall tape is loose of the drywall is soft or damaged, you'll have to repair and sand these areas first. In addition to the putty knives and drywall joint compound for the repairs, you'll need a wide putty or © vecempovsansnj2010thetamilyhanayman.com by Jeff Gorton ceditors@thefamilyhandyman.com Buy a hopper gun ike this for about $70 ‘and connect It toany 2.5-ctm or larger air comprescar, -atoiacan MARCIA ROEPRE Patagapty TOM FENENGA Cran 808 RILEY‘Speed up and simplify your masking job by applying the tape along the ceiling first. Leave the lower edge of the tape loose. ‘Then roll out a length of lightweight poly along the floor, pull one ‘edge up to the ceiling, and stick itto the tape. ‘Suit up with goggles, a dust mask and a hat before you start the messy job of scraping texture. Popcorn spray texture comes off easily itithasn't been painted. taping knife for scraping, a roll of 1-1/2-in. or wider mask- ing tape, enough painter’ plastic to cover the walls, a gallon or two of primer/sealer, a bag of spray texture (enough to cover 300 to 400 sq. ft), and a compressor and hopper gun. You can buy coarse, medium or fine texture. If you're match- ing existing ceilings, take a sample of the material with you when you buy tho texture and ask for holp matching it. Medium is usually the best choice and will match most ceil- ings. You can rent a com- pressor and hopper gun for about $30 for a half day or buy a hopper gun | for about $70 and connect applied before 1980, it may con- tain asbestos. Before you remove any cel contact your state's department of environmental protection, department of health or a regional asbestos coordinator {or information on asbestos testing and removal For a list of contacts, go to -wwnw.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/ i regioncontact2 htmilireg5, it to any average-size or | For general information on larger compressor. If you ‘asbestos, go to use a small compressor, ‘epn.goviasbestos. you may occasionally have +_____________| to stop spraying to let the pressure build up. Minimize rental costs by getting all the prep work done before you pick up the compressor and hopper gun. Start by removing everything you can from the room. If you must leave large furniture in the room, stack it in the center and covor it with plastic. Cover the floor with sheots ora canvas drop cloth. Then cover the walls with thin (1-mil or less) poly sheeting (Photo). Painter's plastic is very thin and works great, Leave an opening with overlapping poly at the doorway so you can get in and out. Turn off the power to the lights and remove any ceiling fixtures. Don’t forget to cap the bare wifes with wire connectors. Stuff newspaper into the electrical box to keep out the spray texture, The next step is to scrape off the old texture (Photo2), but not before you've had it tested for asbestos. If it hasn't been aint the celling with a fast-drying pximer/sealer. Let it dry before applying the spray texture, tnetamityhandyman.com ocambevtonsny200 9painted, i'll usually come off easily. So try just setaping it first. If that doesn't work (you'll know right away), try wetting the texture with a pump-up garden sprayer. That might make it easier to scrape, but it'll leave a sticky mess on the floor. If you use this method, cover your drop cloths with 4-mil plastic so you ‘can wad it up and dispose of the wet texture and not track it all over the house, Texture that’s been painted over ‘can be a lot harder to remove, fust do the best vou can, Try to knock off the high spots and flatten it as much as possible. The ceiling doesn’t have to be smooth, but it’s easier to get a nice-looking job if ‘most of the old texture has been removed. When you're done scraping, paint the ceiling with stain- sealing primer (Photo 3). BIN and KILZ are two popular brands. Use an aerosol can of solvent-based sealer such as BIN white shellac to spot-prime severe stains. Then paint the entire ceiling with a water-based primer/soaler. ‘The key to a successful spray-texture job is mixing the tex- ture to the right consistency. Don’t mix it too thick. Use the amount of water recommended on the bag as a starting " . Mix the powdered spray texture and water thoroughly. Lumps point. Then adjust the thickness by adding more water ot fil clog the spray tip and could mess up your spray leb Let it powder. Mix slowly wing a mixing paddle mounted in a rest 1Sminutes and remix, adding water if necessary. Practice on cardboard or a piece of drywall to get a feel for Start by spraying the perimeter, then fil in the middle. Avoid spraying. Adjust the gun's tip and trigger until you get a con- ‘heavy bulldup—you can always add more. sistent spray pattern that's easy to control. 10 cecerbavinrsay2010 thetamblyhanayman.com1/2-in, drill (Photo). Mix thoroughly, adding water until the material reaches the consistency of runny yogurt—or thick paint—with tiny lumps in it. Let the texture sit for 18 minutes, then remix, adding more water if necessary. There are a few different versions of hopper guns, but they all have a mechanism at the nose that controls the diameter of the pattern, and a trig. ger control that helps govern the vol: ume of spray. Start by setting both controls to the middle position. Then load the hopper about half full with texture material and practice on a piece of cardboard or drywall scrap (Photo). Adjust the spray pa trigger until you can get a nice, even pattern without runs or excess buildup. When you're comfortable with the spraying technique, start on the ceiling, Start by spraying the perimeter (Photo). Hold the gun about 18 to 24 n. from the ceiling end aim so that about two-thirds of the spray hits the ceiling and the yest hits the wall Move quickly around the room, pay- ing speciel attention to the inside comers where walls meet, Remem. ber, you can make another pass if it’s too light. The goal is to cover the veil ing with an even layer of (exture Don't worry if it looks too smooth, The texture will become more pro- nounced as it dries. Be careful to avoid puddles. If you mess up and get a puddle or just a thick buildup, stop and scrape off all the texture with a wide putty knife. Then try again. Move the-gun back and forth while backing up across the room After you've covered the ceiling, turn 90 degrees and apply another light coat at a right angle to the first Concentrate on filling in light spots to create an even texture. When you're satisfied with the consistency of the texture, you can clean up the gun, hopper and hose with water and pull down the poly. If your masking job was a little off and there's texture on the wall or floor- ‘ng, wait for it to dry. Then carefully scrape it off and remove the white residue with a wet sponge. i enna 200 TL PRU a s eo ew LEAVES NOTHING IN ITS PATH. | EXCEPT THE COMPETITION. Put an end to fall cleanup hassle with a DR® LEAF and LAWN, VACUUM. No other is built stronger or lasts longer. Collect and shred acres ofleves, pine cones, pine needles, grass clippings, nuts. Exclusive shredding action reduces debris 101, for more vacuuming and less unloading, Beefy steel Fame, large hoses, hard shell collector, commercial engine options home and then decide AUS! Try eat home ad} SELE-PROPELLED Get a FREE DVD and Catalog MODELS! a0 9 29 Sua Rese ae that's right for your home. co a hoo eegaie. cd 1-800-523-7427by Brett Martin editors@thefamilysandymancom § for DlYers Not sure what to get the do-it- yourselfers on your list? Here j are our suggestions for tools and gear that will give fixers and builders a thrill—while they're getting the job done, Super-quiet shop vacuum Tfinally bought the one tool I'd always coveted but was too miserly to buy—a Fein shop vacuum. Fein and other top- quality vacuums that work in tandem with sanders are unbe- lievably quiet. (Shop vacuums are often rated as the loudest tools in the shop.) But Fein vacuums cost twice as much as other brands (even this less expensive model is a whop- ping $310!) The vacuums have other cool features besides being quiet. The hose is thin and much more flexible than most. ‘The only downside is that big ger chunks of debris will clog the hose, But no matter—I still have my Craftsman werhorse for that kind of cleanup. The other cool feature is an outlet that’s mounted right on the anit. So when 1 plug in my sander and turn it on, the vac uum automatically turns on too, No separate cords or switching needed. Find deal ers and online retailers on the company’s Web site Fe, (800) c.978, ruscom Travis Larson, senior editorThe last demo bar you'll need Nothing says holiday giving like heavy-duty 18-in, 4-1b, wrecking bar! ‘The Stanley FatMax Xtreme FuBar is the ultimate tool for whacking, pry- ing and pulling, The steel jaws twist joists and rafters into position when you're framing, and they're great at too. The beveled nail slot pulls nails fast. tan “1 got one ‘or gt x a present, and A now it’s my go-to tool for demoli- tion and fram- comfortable, gulfeoastpain.com and anti-fatiguemat.com. ing projects,” says Spike Carlsen, TFH contributing editor. “The bar works about twice as fast for demo work as the old: fashioned hammer and pry bar method. The only downside: The FuBar is too big to fit in a tool belt. You can buy it at home centers or amazon.com for about $28, A smaller version (15-in., 2-1/2 Ibs). is available for $20, and a mega ver- sion, the 30-in., 8 1b. FuBar Ill, costs $95. Stanley Tools, (200) 262216 staneyosiscom Astanc-up gift If someone on your gift list spends hours on end standing on a concrete floor in the shop, give their feet a holiday with anti-fatigue mats. They are comfortable to stand on, reduce fatigue and keep feet warmer. Mats filled with gel are the most comfortable, but they're pricey (8100 for 20x 36-in, mat), Mats made of PVC sponge cost, ‘uch less (830 for a 36 x 60-in.) Both types make a hard floor more Available at amazon.com, — Brett Martin, associate editor ayman.com 4 AS Tw Freedom-of-movement work shirts I get frustrated when I need to lift iy arms over my head while I'm ‘working but my shirtsleeves pull tight and restrict my movements. Icould cut off the sleeves, but I'd much rather put on Duluth Trading Co.'s Everyday Work Shirts (item No. 52009), Under arm gussets provide extra materi- al so you can reach, stretch and swing a hammer without the sleeves jerking back, And the extra-long shirttail stays tucked in to keep you covered. The shirts (in blue only) are ‘ailable on Duluth Trading’s Web site for $29.50 or $34.50, depending on the size, plus $10 shipping. If you're looking for other high-quality clothing for the working man or woman on your list, consider a gift card {also available online). ‘oduth rang a, (800) 505-8888, éuthasingcom — Brett Martin, associate editorOrem's Mult-Mas, $100; (800) 437-3635, remecom Cheago’s Mutifuncton Powe Took, $40; (800) 446-3353, harorteightcom Do (almost) anything oscillating tool If the honey-do list at your house includes an eclectic assortment of projects, get your honey an oscillat- ing tool. These tools feature more than a dozen interchangeable acces- sories that let you do anything from removing grout to scraping caulk to sanding to cutting doorjambs. “I couldn't do without one of these tools. There are situations in repair work where I can’t think of another Ultra-accurate engineer’s squares ‘As a woodworker, I have no idea | what engineers do with these things, Computer software? Bridge design? | Doughnut splitting? | But I know why they're essential tools in the wood shop. Their small size and accuracy make them perfect for truing up band and table saw blades, checking end cuts and rips for squareness, and performing countless other tasks. The truth is that I use my engi- neer's square more than my seven or eight other squares combined! The 6-in. square shown cost about $12. You can find one at any | woodworking store or amazon.com | or by searching online for “engi- neers square." | Travis Larson, senior editor way to fix the problem,” says Kevin Lind, field editor. “I've used mine to cut out sections of rotted wood on a windowsill and make nearly invisible patches. The tool works great for undercutting casing, precise detail sanding (especially in corners) and cut- ting holes in drywall—precision cuts with little dust.” Fein developed the original oscillat- ing tool: high quality, a lot of power, a Fein’ Mutaster FM 2509 Stet, $310;(800) 4a1- TB. ees. =, osc’ alta on Max Mut X ating Kt, $200; (877 267-2499, Doschtetscom long power cord and a good selection of accessories. Since the Fein patent has expired, other companies are offering their own versions. Will they be as durable? Who knows? But for occasional use, even a cheap model can be a problem solver. Visit boschtools.com, dremel.com, feinus.com or harborfreight.com for buying informationGreat gifts for the | auto geek We've been at it again, tireless~ | ly searching for great gift ideas for tie goar h probably not dime. So shop for thom! They'll be thrilled to get these problem-solving gadgets, and you'll hear far less swearing from the garage. Get aleg up ‘on the job ‘Sure, shade-tree mechanics can co + stand on a peach crate to work ‘on the truck engine. But ifthey lean 4 little too far over, the ‘crate will go flying, That won't happen with the TireStep 4040 from Heininger. We tested sev- eral brands of tire-mounted stops, and this one is tops in its class. It has more adjust- monts, a larger step and high: erquality construction, and it comes with its own storage pouch. Just unfold this baby (it folds flat for storage), pop it over your front tire, adjustiitto | 4 right height and hop on. Or use it on a rear wheel to secure loads to your roof rack Helningee Automotive 4040 Mtchiate HL, TeeStep, $37 amazon.com ——— /| Gorilla Epony’s gap-filing capabiities and all purpose © 4 formula easily bonds steel, wood, aluminum, ceramic and more, Sets in just 5 minutes. See around corners and retrieve lost parts This mirror and magnet set belongs in every DIYers toolbox for car, appli- ance and home repairs. The telescoping handles pull out to 25 in., and the screw ends et you swap ont attachments, The kit comes with two handles, two swiveling mirrors, two fixed magnet heads and one swivel magnet. ‘OTC650 Telesconing Morand Magnet Se, S16. (600) 936-8665. ntoolscom Get maximum leverage in tight places ‘A sardine can is roomy compared with your average engine com- partment. Mechanics need all the help they can get trying to work in such cramped quarters. These “crows foot” wrenches attach to any 3/8-in.-drive extension bar and let you remove nuts and bolts from far away. Their flare nut design is great for removing brake and power steering lines. Just slip the line through the opening and the wrench will encircle the flare nut to give you extra turning power. cen 710M, 0c et Crows Foot Set with mounting, 8. (677) 653-8665 toldscauntercom\\ Achieve perfect torque Proper bolt torque is critical in today’s aluminum engines. If you overtighten a fastener or even a spark plug, you can strip threads and face some serious repeirs. Since surveys show that most amateur gear heads tend to overtighton fasteners, @ torque wrench is the perfect gift. ‘These inexpensive torque wrenches may not be as dead-on accurate as $200 machine shop-grade models, but they're accurate enough for most DIY repairs. Buy both models for complete coverage. Storm 341 Tarue Wench, V2. ie Range 10 1950/35 Stor 3737 Trav Wench 38-n ive Range 20t0200 ins. $23 (877) 663-8665 tordscountecom Extract those broken fasteners In the automotive world, breaking off a screw or bolt head can be one honkin’ disaster. Give this 25-piece screw extractor and drill guide set to the motor heads you know, and they can got right back to work removing the broken fas- tener. It contains every- thing they need to drill out and extract screws and bolts from smm to SS 16mm (cars S year 1990 > and leter “Sip use mee Sy ric fasten- ers) Screw Exact Dil & Guide Set, ‘Ast Preumatic No, 9437 $42 (200) 508-4735, teoletncos Ss Bp ro dargott none GDR sie cirage door oper, tne SY Garage Bytlr wll elose the door fee you. Alnort, jibe ete _ through open garage door. ‘ Froos ltea Saat lunes with toe Garage Butler ‘ieda Sor a not anf + Mama Opole Bon ses fama +L ser Bon cle ae sor conta oa 1 All bs fr 3 sens hora cles Motel {01 $4495. Made! 01 $5998 ™ (sovdae ting) (ic tine tne) ‘This catalog could be the most Useful tool in your shop. Ie’s where youl find chat elusive hardware solution, rare piece of hardwood, unique molding and innovative tool or jig that takes your project to the next level You'll find over 10,000 items to choose from —with new items being added every month! Get your FREE catalog today at www.rockler.com/¥0303 or call 1-800-403-9736 (Code 156)ae aed See ae rs family. Thematching built-in o eee ear eos au ae! Ren epeeos ee eRe eth ere eo eae ec cu ee eam RIKER) Boe Ot wey cay Rescue those hoses After years of being clamped in place, most radiator and heater hoses are usually welded to the pipe. If you ‘want to reuse the hose, you can easi- ly spend 30 minutes finessing the hose off so it’s still in good enough condition to reinstall. That’s where this cool hose remover tool pays off. Just slip the pointed end into the lip Test your circuits— safely We'd bet the rent that your fami ly mechanic is still using an ana- log circuit tester—and that can wreck your car's computer. This digital, computer-safe unit is one of the best because it doesn’t need @ grounding cable. You just touch the probe to the electrical contact and your hand to any metal portion of the vehicle to complete the circuit. The stain loss stee! tip is sharp enough to plerce wire insulation (seal the puncture after testing) and detects 3 to 24 volts DC. Set the tester to buzz when it finds volt ‘age, of use the LED as your alert. Sheed Reserch C8002 Cress Computer ‘Safe Cut Tester, $20, (877 682-8665 toldscountercom of the hose and pull the tool around the pipe. The rounded edge breaks ‘he hose free, Then use the tool to pull the hose off. This baby will save lot of time and at least 25 good curse words for later use on a differ- ent repair (c-4521 Hose Removal Tool. $4. (800) 939-8665 spxusatooivarereusece LL SI akTL MM & by Travis Larson editors@thefamilyhandyman.com Great gifts for your shop rat Don't have a clue what to get that shop rodent of yours? We're here to help. You can't go wrong with this suggested toy list. And with a price range of $10 to $150, there's something for every gifter in the family. But before you go out and bag anything we talk about here, sneak into the shop to make sure it’s not already part of the arsenal Space-age hearing protection Who doesn’t hate hearing protection? You generally can't hear anything with it on, including shop visitors, the radio or the latest iPad download from U2. But you can make that problem evaporate by buying your shop resident a pair of Ryobi's Tek4 Audio Plus Noise Suppression Head- phones. This electronic version of old-fashioned earmuffs makes hearing protection easier—almost_ more pleasant than skipping it. But they are rather odd at first, fe you can clearly hear someone quietly talking on the other side of the room, the minute you fire up the Unisaw, the head- phones shut the racket down to a subdued roar. If you like listening to tunes while you work, go ahead, There's a port to plug in your iPod or MP3 player. Find the headphones (model No. RP4530) at Home Depot for $70. Magnetic featherboard If the shop has a table saw, it needs a featherboard, 1 guarantee your shop rat has some cobbled-together, home- made featherboard that’s a pain to clamp in place, But the Magswitch Magnetic Table Saw Featherboard is a fast, hassle-free solution, Just place it where you want it, tum the knobs and the internal magnets will stick the featherboard to the cast iron table. It sticks so well, you'd swear it’s glued down. Another =_ DS. senshi Peuney THO twist of the knobs and it releases. Find one at Rockler’s stores for $60 or order one online at rockler.com (item No. 39194; 800-270-4481),nN DL Surgeon's light It’s a scientific fact. Rats have notoriously bad vision. If your shop rat works on small projects, picks out splinters, or just needs to read the fine print on spray cans, this LED work light with a magnifying head is a perfect gift. It’s bet- ter than the old, giant ones with the fluorescent lights sur- rounding the glass. The articulated arm style has been replaced with a shaft that you can endlessly bend around to get it just vight. There are two interchangoable bases: a mag not that sticks to any steol or cast iron surface, and a simple clamp for workbench edges. If there's no outlet handy, the light will run off a pair of "AAA" batteries. I's available at rockler.com (item No. 27017; $65). Finger-fixing stocking stuffer Nothing beats a good pair of tweezers for pulling the splinters that are part of nearly every shop project Not one of those cheap eyebrow pluckers, either. Plan to spend $10 to $20 0n a super-sherp surgical steel pair at any drugstore. And if you bucked up for the magnifying light, wrap them up in the same box. They'll go together like ham and cheese 28 cecerberiansay2019 the tamilynendymas.com TURNS ANY WET-DRY VAC INTO A SUPERHERO. CleanStream® Pro Filters wansform mild-mannered wok vacs into super-powertul dlustightes. With true HEPA filration of 99.97% of even the finest pales, youl get ‘super cleanups witout dust clouds. Sawdust, drywall dust, water~ none of them stand ‘a chance against the dynamic duo - your wet-dy vac anc a Cleanstream Fier. Sears seme (ETE cieanstream.com ieteate oso Ween ef Dust has met its match.| he Robotic janitor Yes, a broom and dustpan are faster and a whole lot cheap- er than an iRobot Dirt Dog (S130). But unless you're Harry Potter, it’s hard to impress your friends with a broom. If you want to wow your giftee, wrap up a Dirt Dog Switch on the Dirt Dog and it starts sweeping, navigating under workbenches, and finding its way around corners and stools. It goes everywhere, seemingly randomly, and it's hyp- notizing to watch. It’s not good at picking up a lot of rough material, so do a quick sweep to get the scraps and let the Dirt Dog finish up. Available at iRebot.com (800-727-9077) wD fw aD Lf Saw table elixir Head to the shop and look atall the cast iron tables on the stationary tools—the band saw, table saw, joint- ors, oc. IF they have rust or stains, your shop rat could use @ bottle of TopSaver (818 for 8 o2,). Spray it on, ot it sit, then wipe it off. It ind seals the And the top will be so slick that wood will glide like UUs riding on ball bearings For really bad rust rings, stick a Scotch-Brite pad under a palm sander and go to town. Then buff with a cotton towel. A TopSaver kit—including pads and shop tow- els—costs about $22 at woodworking stores and online. One source is woodworker.com (800-645-9202). 1 See p.2for details, | ae thatamitymandyman.com Oxnbesaney 200 29 SY Vacuum into a Super Cae ea EET as ning Bie cod CEM a to Vac Cea Va Filters! } in Made in the USA |Our new plastic Dust ty san economic way to eliminate shop vacuum filter clogging! Colt for FREE Catalog! (1.800.732.4065 wwwoneid-sicom An easy-to-install station from the company that sets * the standard in quality. + Wind, rin, temperature, humidity, barometric pressure and much more * Unique Weather Center function provides historical data for each weather variable * Solar-powered external sensors + 1,000 #t. (300 m) wireless ‘transmission is up to 3x ‘y__ferther than the competition + 2.5 second updates are up tolox @@@ faster than competing stations ELIS | SRP’ a FHO9I2iol Ta Peeet Breton BECKY BFLUSER Ptetopaoty BILL ZUEHLKE - Teil st FRANK ROMRBACH Modular construction makes it easy efore you say to yourself, “I couldn't Don't get the wrong idea, though. Fast, easy build that,” glance through the following construction doesn’t mean poor quality. This pages. You'll see that this bookcase is an bookcase is sturdy enough to last for generations. assembly of plywood boxes and square frames The materials for our cherry bookcase cost dressed up with simple trim, The joinery about $800. In oak or birch, it would cost about involves nothing more than screws, glue and bis- $500, Most home centers carry oak and birch ply- cuits, and there's not a singlo miter cut in the wood only, so if you want a different species, you whole project. have to shop ata lumberyard that caters to pros. Think of it as 5 small projects— with 5 big advantages crown Bookcases like this one are usvally built as ‘two big sections: a cabinet unit and a shelf unit. But breaking itinto smaller units has huge benefits, during and after construction: It's perfect for small shops. Built in smal sections, this bookcase doesn't require a big space, a big work- bench orbig clamps. ‘Smaller parts mean smaller mistakes. ‘There are no face frames or other big, complicated assemblies. So you're unlikely to make a mistake that would cast you lots Cf wasted wood or a whole day of rebuilding. Quick disassembly makes finishing easier. By removing some screws, you can separate the five units. By removing more screws, you can break each unit into even smaller, easier-to-finish parts, Moving it is easy. When fully dismantled, the bookcase can be easily carried by one person and then reassembled in place, You can make it half as big— or twice as big. ‘Our two-section design (two cabinets, ‘wo drawers, two shelves) is easy to alter. Youll have to alter the lengths of afew parts, but most will remain the ‘same. Our bookcase is 67-3/4 In, wide X12 in, deep x 82-1/4 in tal small sh thetamiiyrandyman.com parsay2000 31The base ‘The base is the simplest unit: Just build a plywood box, cover three sides with solid wood boards and then top it off, with a round-odged frame. The base frame is identical to the drawer frame (see p. 37), and the crown frame (p. 40) is a smaller version of the two. So you'll save some time by building all three at once. = Choose a board with an attractive grain pattern for the base face; it’s one of the most prominent parts, 1m Before you glue the face and sides to the plywood box, position them by driving a few 1-1/4-in, screws from inside the box. Then remove the screws, add glue and screw the parts into place again. Unlike clamps, screws won't allow the parts to slide out of alignment on the slippery glue. m= Center the biscuits 1 in. from the inside of the frame parts (see Photo 1). That oops the biscuit slots a safe distance from the outer edgos (though thoy'll show slightly inside the frame) m Round three sides of the frame using a 3/8-in. round-over bit. Rout the left side first, using two blocks to prevent gouging and splintering (Photo3). Then c round the front. Clamp on a block to { provent gouging as you finish up on the i me Position the biscult center lines fast using a lin. block ‘Avoid "glue-up screwup' later by numbering the joints Isr screw a ee Se =, . right side. Flip the frame over and ene repeat the process. & <= 1 When you screw the frame to the ply al wood box, drive screws only near the us ier ends and center of the front rail; other Figure A ox — : ‘OVEMFANG screws would be exposed when you " ¥ 2 Base box and frame open the cabinet doors. Gee, ears: ‘A1-in. hole in the back rail lets you clamp on the side rails without 6-ft-long clamps, Attach both sides and let the glue set for at least 20 minutes before you add the front rat. 32 _oecembevanayy2010 the tamilyhandyman.com ‘starting block prevents gouging at the back edge of the side rail ‘A breakout block prevents end-grain splintering on the front ralThe cabinet unit To build the cabinet unit, start with two plywood boxes. Before you add the side panels and center stile, hang the doors (see p. 41). Then remove the doors and set them aside until the whole project is done emble the boxes with screws only. Glue is unneces- sary for strength and will leave squeeze-out stains that may show up when you apply your finish Make sure the cabinet boxes are perfectly square by tak- ing diagonal measurements before you attach the backs. Out-ofsquare boxes will cause headaches when you assemble the cabinet unit and fit the do The stiles for the cabinet unit are identical to the stiles for the drawer and shelf units. So cut and rout them all at the same time. Three 6-ft. pieces will provide just enough material (but with no room for mistakes!) m To make spacers, gather 3/4-in. ply- wood scraps and glue them together. yg ~ te ‘Then cut them to width (1-1/8 in, and — OV#AHANE. = 2 in) on your table saw. p m= To build the side panels, glue on the j spacers first, then add the stiles (Photo ni 4). Align the stiles flush with the spac- ers and let them overhang the panels. a Before assembly, we covered the ply | ere Lt wood edges of the cabinet boxes and ‘ shelves with iron-on edge banding, ‘ For edge-banding tips, see “Do's & A Don'ts,” May "68, p. 16. seme kaa \ . ‘See. . a ee ‘cover-up for the = zeseacens "SHELF HOLES. screw heads inside the cabinet box. & See the Materials, 40, ‘Tape the side panels before you clamp the stiles to the spacers. 'fyou use soring clamps, keep an eye on the stile alignment, spring clamps can let parts slide on the slippery glue. the boxes to the base frame, 2 sont Figure B Cabinet boxes and panels x ) nout.over VO Fasten the side panels and center stile by driving screws through the cabinet boxes. Then center the whole cabinet unit and thetamiiyandyman.com oxemoeuiaman200 33The drawer unit To build the drawer unit, start with the drawer boxes and cradles. Add the side panels and center stile just as you did ‘on the cabinet unit, Then sandwich them all between a frame and the drawer top. For @ more substantial look, we used 1-in-thick boards for the drawer top (end for the crown top later). You won't find 1-in.-thick boards at most home centers, so check with a local lumberyard. You can substitute 3/4-in.-thick material without changing the con- struction of other parts. '= Drawers take a lot of abuse, so assemble the drawer boxes with screws and glue. Trim screws are best, They're skin- ny enough for the 1/2-in-thick sides, and their small Position the slides on the cradle sides using a 3/8-in. spacer. “Then screw slides to the drawers ang you're done. heads are easy to cover with wood filler. m= Note that the side panel spacers aren’t exactly like those on the cabi- net unit; they include a top spacer that allows you to drive scrows into the drawer top (see Photo7). 7 l= Instead of using expensive ‘1-in.- ovenmANG | thick cherry for the back rail of the drawer top, we glued together two lay- ers of 1/2-in, plywood scraps. = The 1/2-in. cove in the drawer top is too deep to rout in a single pass. To avoid splintering, we were extra cautious and made four shallow passes, lowering the router bit after each pass. Beiter safe than sorry! m= Cut the drawer fronts from a single fj a board so they'll have similer color and . = 80x i Lf Kno. 20 aiscurr {rain pattern. Be sure to choose an attrac- = os tive board for these prominent parts, sckew onawen 7 1m Before you add the drawer fronts (Photo 8), set the = ean drawer unit on the cabinet unit and drive screws through Figure C the cabinet boxes into the drawer frame. Drawer cradles and frames ‘Screw the side panels, center stile and cradles together. Install the drawers anc position the fronts with spacers, ‘Then screw the side panels to the top before you add the frame. Then drive temporary screws through the knob holes. Pull out ‘the drawers and drive screws from inside the drawer boxes, thetamitynandyman.com decmzevanen200 37The shelf unit Tho shelf unit is the biggest component-—and the simplest. Just build two boxes and glue on stiles and trim, = Remember that plywood has a good side and a not-so: good side. Be sure the good side faces outward on the shalf box sides, inward on the box top and upward on the shelves. m= Drill holes for the adjustable shelf supports using 1/4-in, brad-point bit. A scrap of pegboard makes a per- fect template for positioning the holes. 1m To make sanding easier, sand the insides of the shelf box sides before assembly. = Fasten the shelf box backs with screws rather than nails. Set the blade height to 1/2 in, and make two or three passes, mov- ing the fence slightly after each pass. Clamp a we fence so the blade won't damage the fenc®. ‘That way, you can remove them later f @ When you glue and clamp the stiles to the sides, remember that the outer stiles pro- ~ trude 1/8 in. past the box sides = Glue the center stile to only one bbox sides. That lets you decouple the two bie ! shelf boxes by unscrewing the top and bot: t tom gussets. ' m= When adding the nosings to the adjustable shelves, use four biscuits. ‘The biscuits aren't needed for strength, but they help | ier finishing, sr scnew f the shelf align the nosings while clamping = The shelf unit simply stands on the drawer unit; there's no need for ga ¥Maaye sorews. But you will have to screw SHELF HOLES) | he bookcase to the wall (see "Finishing and Installation,” p. 40} ‘The blade guard must be removed for the cuts shown if: Photos 9 and 10, Figure D Work with extreme caution! Shelves and trim LC both edges of a board and then the cove moldings. _Lay the shelf unit on Its back and apply tape to pratect “show" AA guide board with a push block screwed to one endiets you cut surfaces from squeezed-out glue. Stretch masking tape over the thin strips safely without moving the fence. moldings ta hold them while the glue sets. Use the same trick ‘when you glue trim to the shelves, BB cocmhevaman010 thefamllyhandyman.comThe crown ‘The crown parts are similar to parts you built earlier. The box and frame are smaller versions of the box and frame for the base. The crown top is much like tho drawer top, with one big difference: Instead of being built as a framo, it's built around a slab of 3/4-in. plywood. That creates a continuous surface for easier dusting and lets you display items on top of the bookshelf. To assomble the crown, first drive screws through the frame into the box. ‘Thon set the crown on the shelf unit and screw through the frame into the shelf boxes. (Be sure to use 1-1/4-in, screws so you don’t screw through the shelf units!) Then attach the crown top by screwing into the crown box. hh rsenew Figure E 3/8" ROUND-OVER Crown box and frames ‘Test assemble al the parts, including the drawers, doors and shelves. t's better to find sticking drawer o: misfit shelf now than after the finish ison. Take a minute to stand bback and admire your work, too. 40 owersectonan 200. the Finishing and installation By removing scrows, you can disas: semble the bookcase into small parts for easy finishing. Be sure to label the ‘components so they all go back togeth- er smoothly. We gave the drawers and cabinet boxes two coats of water-based polyurethane. Cherry often absorbs stain unevenly, creating a blotchy appearance. So we protrvated all exte- rior sucfaces with Minwax Pro-Stain conditioner and then applied two coats of Watco oil finish (Cherry). After allowing the oil to cure for taree days, we applied two coats of Minwax \wipe-on polyurethane for extra sheen and protection. Reassembling the bookcase in its now home takes just a fow minutes But before you screw on the crown top for the last time, screw the crown to the wall to prevent the shelf unit from tipping and injuring someone. Drill two 1/2-in. holes through the back of the crown box. Thou slip fender wash- rs over Sin, screws and drive them into wall studs, The oversized holes will allow the bookcase to move slightly as wood shrinks and swells or the carpet below is compressod Materials List rem ory. 4 ¥8°x3/0° hardwood plywood 2 4x8'x3/4" utltyeprade plywood 1 4 x8°x1/4"harawo0d plywood 34° x5-V2" x8 hardwood boards 6 TM" x8'hardwoadboard 1 A2-U2"x8' hardwood bead ‘We oered the followngikems = ‘om Woodworker's Hardware, (600) 363-0136, womardwaracom Leveling feet and Tuts 4 (3855 232 and SCT1420) Blumhinges ans mounting alas 8 (Go7sTISs0 and BI7SH710) Hinge citing template 1 (6085 5310), 1 chawer sides (pat) 2 (BZ30M ac) ‘Screw cover caps (bag of 100) 1 (C1552 029) Sich ton-on edge band 2 (©7078 PB 25) ‘Shalt supports (bag of 20) 2 (THBOIS) Curdkawer and door nob came tom restoratonfardwarecom (No. 24070461 PN: $8 each). ‘Wood ale, masking tape, constrecton Screws (1 1-4". 65/8", 2",39), 1 tm screwsand No. 20 bscutsTools you'll need Wo used a biscuit joiner (starting at about $75), but you could use a pocket screw jig. You'll need ‘lamps with a reach of at least 18 in. and a router and three bits: &3/8-in. and a 1/8-in. round-over and a 1/2-in. cove (about $40 total}. This project requires lots of drilling and countersinking for screws, so pick up a bit that does both at once ($5). Cutting List KEY QTY. SIZE DESCRIPTION 2%" plywood (see cutting dasrems) 3-12" x 64-1/4" base box 3-02" 4-3/8" base box 272° x62" tamer 15-4" x30" cabinet box 3:12" 30" cabinet box 15-14" 18-12" cabinet box 15:14 x20-1/6" shelves 15-78" ceawer panels N72" 47272" sett oax 1/4" 30-172" shat box 0-3/6" y 30-28" shelves 3°x82-12" crownbox 3x10" eown box 2-72 x 60-14" crown tame. 10:3/4" 61" crown top V2" plywood (see cutting diagram) 4 2-3/4" e/2" drawer box 4 2.3/6" 21/2" damer box 23472 48" top tame 2 3472" «12-3/6" top frame 2 SVrKS-V2" gussets V4" plywood (see cutting diagram) c4unmcvzerx rommane> v w x y z AR 2 19-7/8"x29-778" cabinet box BB 2 V2" xZ7-V2" drawerdox C2 _«B.B/8"x 47.14" shelf box 4"-thek sold wood 0D 1 -3-V2'x66" base face 3:12" 115-778" base sides ff Bev x67" fame frontal 03 PAVE X-5/6" frame sides HH 2°20" cabinet stiles 2 2 4 3 B38 Pe4 deawer stiles KK 2 3-7/8" 29-778" drawer fronts 3 A272" shal stiles 6 5" 30-3/8" shelf nosings 4 5/8"29-V8" cove moldings 1 3°x64:14" crownbox face 2 3°xTH/2" crown box sides 1 24/2" 65-14" crown frame 2 2V2"x10-14" crown fame thick solid wood 1 V8" 67-3" drawer too 2 SV/x10-V4" drawer top 1.242" x66" crown top 2 2-V2"x10-3/4" crown top u BBBRZE 7 wy. w ww Complex hinges— simple installation Don't be fooled by the complex look of "Euro" hinges. They're actually fast and easy to install. Once you get used to them, youll never want to use anything else. ‘The only tricky step is choosing the right hinge for the job, For this book- case, you can simply order the hinges ‘and mounting plates we used (see p40). For other situations, browse an online retailer such as wwhard- ware.com or rocklercom terri sOUSTMENT absustiaenT — et AaJuSTMENT ‘The best thing about Euro hinges is adjustability. You can adjust the door in thiee directions with the turn of a ‘screw, 50 you won't spend hours | sanding or planing to get a perfect ft. mounts PLATE HOLES Hance cuPHou A drilling template isn't absolutely necessary, but well worth the $6 price, Mark the three holes you'll use with dabs of paint to avoid mistakes, A1-3/8-In, Forstner bit ($15) and a diil ae all you need to bore the cup holes. Don't bother with a drill press inless you're installing ots of doors L__ MARK THE HINGE LOCATIONS Lay the cabinet box on its side, center the oor against it and mark both using a 2-V/é-in-wide scrap. The lines mark the Center of the hinge POSITION HOLES PRECISELY Center the template en the line and dri ‘two 3/32-in. mounting plate holes in the Cabinet. On the door, mark the center of the cup hole using the drill bit and tem- plate, Then bore the cup hole with a Forstner Bit, SNAP ON THE DOOR Just slip the hinges over the mounting plates and press. To remove the doors, push the release lever. Jamitynanayman.tom Osembavsamry2010 alve" Bic Plywood cutting diagrams ‘We used! “utlty rade" birch plywood and leftover cherry plywood fr the hidden pats exw aie" CHERRY | Feral (101) o permanent (200) ‘Walesa or sl ror FOTO ike Henao et 8200 2509008 25 S19 oe eae hundreds of dollars in home heating costs by i." ioo-j20s1 $18 $239 replocing old ond inefiient heating. It can replace or supplement your electric heat, gos cor oil fnace and woodstoves. Sil represents economy in heating: inside the heater is @ seoled copper chamber filled with « harmless silicone fluid designed [5 tykerMox 75015006 $25 $229 for heat retention quolities. The Fluid is quickly [2 750w-Sicove S18. S179 heated by a varying omount of micro- ‘_s0__| managed proportional power. This exclusive technology greatly increases energy savings. | check m MasterCard Vito m Discover 1-800-627-9276 www.hydrosil.com Hyd, '¥750w 751008 $18 $9 2 s0dw — S07S# $18 $169 Trova PORASLES itemesarindeded) SHHll Save $1,000 on labor and cut your heating bills P De yl editors. the oa you need to add insulation in your attic, save big by I blowing in cellulose insulation yourself. The pros You can ¢ about $500. Blowing attic tion isn’t hard, but it's dusty, sweaty work. To make it easi- one for attic prep in. By the end it yourself sula- ab a helper ai and the second to actually blow the insulat 1e weekend you're going to be sore and tired. But saving your aching back The long-term payoff is impressive too, You could see your energy bills go down by as much as 15 t nding on your climate and existing lovels of insulation, ‘And you can tional 30 percent on the cost of the insulation through the federal stimulus tax credit (see ‘Dollar Savvy Homeowner,” p. 66) » shew you how to do the job 25 perc doy Jat, we asked our expert othly n mistakes. to share hi ips for making the job go sm you avoid the top three attic-insulatHH ur insulation expert Arne Olson, the owner of Houle Insulation in Minneapolis (houleinsu- lation.com), has insulated more than 5,000 homes. “A lot of those homes ‘were insukated by DIYers who didn't know what they weraddoing,” says (Olson, "They didn't use enough inst {ation and they didn't seal up the attic bypasses or put in vent chutes” (Olson says it's also common for older insulation to settle over time. “But you can blow cellulose over whatever kind of insulation is already there, and this is a great OLY project for someone who doesn't ming ‘working Up a sweat.” Seal attic bypasses Leaks from cracks and gaps around lights, plumbing pipes, chimneys, walls and other ceiling penetrations are the equivalent of having a 2-ft-wide hole in your ceiling. The worst of ers are open stud and joist cavities and Gropped soffits and ceilings in kitchens and baths. We'll show you some basics here (Photo1), but for complete step-by- step detailed information about how to seal attic bypasses, go to thefamily. handyman.com and type “sealing attic air leaks” in the search box. Install or repair vent chutes ‘In 95 percent of the homes we work on, the vent chutes are missing or ~ aren't properly installed,” says Olson. Pull back the Without them, you're not getting the existing insula~ i" ton and vse most out of your insulation’s R-value because air needs to move properly at the eaves to remove moisture in the expanding spray foam to seal any ‘gaps around plumb- Ing pipes. celing, perforations and holes where electri- cal wires snake through. "Make sure to seal all the way around the pipe says Olson, For gaps V6 in-or less, use caulk rather than expanding foam, winter and heat in the summer. ‘To make sure existing chutes aren't blocked, stand in a dark attic to see whether light from the eaves is filtering through the vents. Replace any chutes that ate blocked, damaged or missing, You'll find both plastic and foam vent chutes ($1 each} at home centers, Olson recommends using foam chutes, “They're more rigid and there's less chance of them getting crumpled or compressed when you're installing them." Pull back the existing insula tion so you can see out to the edge of Pulitne exist the eaves, and install a vent chute in ing insulation every rafter space (Photo2) away from the 00 . went chute so the Dam and insulate bottom extends the attic access hang ane state t To keep the insulation from falling into place. Olson suggests using a squeeze stapler Instead of aham- ‘mer stapler. "I's more accurate and there's less chance you'll erumple the chute” through the attic hatch opening, make a 2x12 dam around the hatch perimeter. “Then, to really seal the atic access up tight.” says Olson, “lay fiberglass batt insulation on the inside of the hatch or door and wrap it up tight like a Christmas present” (Photo 3). You can insulate the hatch door while you're inside the attic or slide the door out and do it mote comfortably on a tarp outside. 44 coconpavnany 2010 thetamitynandyman.camMark your final insulation level When you're blowing insulation, it can get dusty and hard to see whether you've got it deep enough around the entire attic, Mark the desired level on different roof trusses around the attic bofore you start (Photo 4). Pick up the blower and insulation Cellulose insulation is a good choice for DIYers. It has a higher R-rating and is less expensive than either blown fiberglass or fiberglass batts. It's an environmentally friendly material made from recy cled newspaper, so it’s easier on your skin and lungs. And you can blow it easily and quickly into odd- shaped spaces in an attic, where access is limited and dragging up batts is tough. Most home centers zell bagged cellu- lose insulation ($6.75 per bag), and many provide the blower for a minimal fee (20) or free when you buy a certain number of bags (usually 10 or more). You can also rent the blowers from a rental center for about $65 a day. Although rental machines aren't as powerful as the truck-mounted units the pros use, Olson says they work fine for a DIYer, To determine how many bags you'll need, measure your existing insulation so you know your current R-value and subtract that from the recommended levels (see “Do You Need to Add Insulation?” on p. 48 for how to find recommended levels for your ZIP code). Check the chart on the insula- tion bag to determine the number of bags necessary to reach your desired R-value based on the square footage of your attic. Olson recommends buying ‘moro bags than you think you'll need “You can always return them, and you don't want to stop in the middle of the jab because you've run out.” Set up the blower ‘The blower machine is heavy, so have your partner along to help you load and unload it. Set the blower on a tarp on flat ground near the window or vent ‘opening closest to the attic access. Your Cover the attic hatch with a pillow of fiberglass Insulation, "You want a nice, big put pillow of insu- lation to stop any ait leaks," says Olson, Cut two layers of Rel9 fiberglass batt insulation slightly larger than the hatch and staple duct tape to the hatch edges to secure It in place, Measure up from the dry- ‘wall to mark your desired insulation level. Use a perma- nent marker to mark the level every few trusses so you know you have even cov- erage around the entire space, Have your assistant crumble the com- pressed cellulose as he loads the hopper soit doesn't clog the hose. Ifthe cel- lulose comes out too fast or too slow, adjust the hopper door. The blower machine is toud, and you and your assis~ tant won't be in visual contact. Communicate with each other using a walkie-talkie or cell, phone. You can also éllck the blower control switch on and off several times to get your helpers attention, thefamiiynaneyman-com ecinbaviinan200 47helper will feed the insulation into the hopper while you work the hose up in the attic (Photo). The blower should include two 50-ft hoses that you can connect and snake into the altic. If your hoses have to wind their way through the house to reach a scuttle (the attic access) in @ hallway or closet, lay down tarps along the way. It keeps things neater during the process and makes cleanup a lot Connect the hoses with the coupler and then use duct tape over the coupler to secure the connection, “Those metal clamps can vibrate themselves loose,” says Olson. “You don't want them to get disconnected and have cellulose sprayed all around your house.” Blow the insulation Wear eye protection, a long-sleeve shirt and gloves, and a double-strap mask or particulate respirator. Start a5 far away from the access panel as possible and blow the eaves and other tight spots first. For hard-to-reach areas, dct tape a length of PVG pipe to the end of the blower hose. As you work back into comers and around eave vents, don’ cover any ventilating areas. You can blow three rafter bays on each side of the attic from one position. Let the hose sit on the drywall to fil the eave areas, giving ita shake to move it from bay to bay. For the center areas, hold the hose level and blow the insu- lation evenly wntil you've reached your level lines (Photo6). Then pivot in place and do the same thing to the other side. Move across the attic until you've hit your desired height at every point. Blow the rest of the insulation until the hopper is empty. You'll end up with a clean blower, and the extra inch or two of insulation will settle over the next few months y ,thefamilyhandyman.com ‘nauate Your celing and wal Find cut how at thetarifiandymancon/insuate wal s Inerove your atc vertlatonFindout how at talyrandymen com/atinas, instal ergs batt nsltion ding your remodel Step-by-step instructions at theariy handymancon/tbeglassbats, s Inala vapor bain your caw space Detalles instructions at thetemiyhandy- smancenvinstalaporbaiet 48 from the hatch ana sit in the center of, the atte, "Don't move around alot in the atte with the hose," says Olson, ‘Work from the mid dle and do three ‘bays at atime Push the hase out to the eaves and blow those areas flrst, Then pull the hose back and use a slow, steady sweep- ing motion untit you reach the desired tevel. Then pivot in place and blow the ‘opposite side of the attic the same way. Do you need to add insulation? ‘The answer depends on where you live, the heating and cooling costs in your area, your existing insulation levels, local codes and more. The fist stepis to make ‘sure you've sealed your attic bypasses. ‘Then visit wwwl.eere.energy-gov and do search for “ZIP-Code Insulation Program. Use the insulation calculator | The 3 most common DIY insulation mistakes Mistake #1; Not sealing attic air leaks first “No amount of insulation is going tohelp It you don’t seal your attic propery says (Olson, For detailed step-by-step infor- mation about sealing atti ait leaks, 20 to thefamityhandyman.com and type seal attic alr leaks” Mistake #2: Not gatting insulation out to the edges “When you're prepping the attic, use a ‘broom handle or stick to push the exist- ing insulation out to the edges. Then ‘when you blow in the cellulose, make sure you do a good job of getting it way over to the eaves with the hose: Mistake #3: ‘Stepping through the celting Ithappens all the time," says Olson. "You've got to rove around slowly and step from olst to jst." If there's no fiear, bring up a 12-in-wide piece of 3/4-in, plywood and lay it across the ceiling joists f0 use asa platform to plugin your Z1P code, titestyle factors, building design, energy costs and budget to get a detailed recommendation. ‘The recommended insulation level for ‘most attics is R-38 (or about 12 to 15 in. from the drywall, depending on the insu- lation type). In the coldest climates, Insulating up to R~49 is recommended. to work from, And wear rubber-soled shoes s0 you can feel the joists ‘through the bottom of your feet.All it takes is two coats of paint! \ ‘au don't need to spend thousands of dollars on new cabinets to give your kitchen a stunning new look, if your cabinets are in good shape, you can give them a fresh face with paint. Every-thing you need to give your drab cabinets a silky smooth painted finish costs less than $259—including the sprayer. Professional painters typically spray-paint doors because it produces an ultra-smooth finish. In this arti- cle, we'll show you how to spray-paint your doors and. drawors. There's just a short learning curve to use the sprayer effectively. You could also spray the cabinet frames, sides and trim, but masking off the cabinet openings (and the rest of the kitchen) takes a lot of time, so just use a brush for those areas. Despite our enthusiasm, there are downsides to a painted finish. The paint isn’t as tough as a factory fin- ish, and even if you're careful, you can still end up with paint runs and have brush marks on your cabinet sides. All the materials you need to paint your cabinets are available at home centers and paint stores. Plan to spend four or five days to complete the job—you'll have to let the paint dry overnight between coats, and you can only paint one side of the doors per day. New-looking cabinets in 3 steps bmitybaderman-eom oxeroeanay200 SLaintin Or you Not ail cabinets are worth painting. They must be structural- ly sound—paint obviously isn’t a cure for doors that are falling apart or don’t close properly. If your cabinets are oak or some other species with coarse grain and you want, a smooth finish, you'll have to fill the grain on the door pan- els, cabinet frames and cabinet sides with spackling com: pound. That nearly doubles the length of this project because sanding the compound takes a long, long time (but if you don’t mind a coarse finish, you can skip this step). If you like the style of your cabinets and they're in good shape, and you're willing to invest the time to paint them, this project is for you. ‘As with any successful painting project, preparation is the key—and the most time-consuming step. Start by removing the cabinet doors and drawers as well as all the hardware. Label the doors as you remove them so you'll know whe to reinstall them. Writing a number in the hinge hole (for Euro hinges) or where the hinge attaches works great—it's the only part that's not painted Take the doors and drawers to the garage or another work area and spread them out on a work surface. It's surprising how much space doors and drawers eat up—even if you have a small kitchen, An extension ladder placed over saw- horses gives you a surface to set the doors on. Wash the front and the back of the doors and the drawer fronts to remove grease (Photo1). Then stick tape in the hinge holes or where the hinges attach to keep out the paint. Wash the grease off the cebinet frames in the kitchen, too. Then tape off everything that abuts the cabinet frames (Phota 2). Use plastic sheeting ($13 for six 9 x 12-ft. sheets of 1-mil plastic) or brown masking paper ($3 for 12 in. x 60 yds.) to cover appliances. Use rosin paper ($12 for 3 ft.x 167 ft.) for countertops—it’s thick enough to resist tears and won't let small paint spills seep through Some cabinets, like ours, have a catalyzed lacquer finish that’s very hard. Primer won't form a good bond to this sur- face unless you scuff it up first, First sand any damaged areas on the doors or cabinet frames with 320-grit sandpaper to remove burrs or ridges, then fill the areas with spackling compound (Photo 3) Lightly sand the doors and cabinet frames, trim and sides with 320-grit sandpaper. Sand just enough to take off the shine—you don’t need to sand off the finish. Vacuum the ust off the wood using a bristle attachment. Right before you're ready to apply the primer, wipe down the doors and frames with a tack cloth ($2 for a two-pack). Running the cloth over the surface is enough—you don’t need to scrub to remove the fine dust particles. Apply a stain-killing primer ($20 per gel: Bulls Bye 1-2-8 and BIN are two brands) with a paintbrush (Photo). You can use a cheap brush—even a disposable one—for this, Don’t worry about brushstrokes in the primer (you'll remove them later with sandpaper) or getting a uniform finish. The doors 52 _oacersevimiey2000. thetamityhangyman.com Wash off years of kitchen grease with warm water and dish detergent. Clean away all the grease or the primer and paint ‘won't adhere, Rinse clean with water. IAM NUNN PAINTING ‘Tape off the walls, celling and flooring, and cover the counter- tops with rosin paper. Wrap appliances and the vent hood with plastic sheeting or masking paper. and frames don't have to look pretty at this stage. But don’t use a roller. It leaves e texture that will affect the finish. Besides, brushing is almost as fast as rolling, and you can use the bristles to work the primer into crevic Once the primer is dry (just one or two hours), lightly sand the doors and cabinets with 320-grit sandpaper to ¢ remove any brushstrokes (Photo 5). Sandpaper works better than a sanding sponge—you can feel the rough spots through the paper, and paper doesn’t round over comers like sponges do. MP reescit von pan aster andreater. Goto thelamiyhandyman/elntas.Fix scratches, holes and dings with spackling compound. Prime the doors and cabinet frames with stain-blocking, ‘Work the compound into the damaged area with a putty primer. The primer covers any stains and seals in cooking knife, Fill n holes from handles and hardware if You're replacing _odors. Prime one side of all the doors let them dry while you. the hardware and need holes in cifferent places. prime the cabinet face frames and sides, then corne back and prime the other side of the doors. ‘Sand the doors and cabinets with fine-grit sandpaper. Sand (& Start in a comer to paint the cabinet frames. Use a high- SD with the grain. Be careful not to round over corners. Wipe the auality paintbrush to paint an entire rail or stile, including the surface clean with a tack cloth. Inside edge, before moving to an adjacent rail or stile. Immaculate finish in 90 minutes For this project, we used a Wagner Control -—-you mixin levels out the finish, You can clean ‘Spray Double Duty spray gun (model No. the sprayer in about 10 minutes, (0518052; $70 at home centers and ama- ‘The paint experts we talked to say you can zon.com). The high-volume, low-pressure _geta nice-looking finish with non-HVLP_ (HVLP) Sprayer gives the doors thin,even sprayers too. But the advantages of an HVLP coat of paint and makes quick workof paint- sprayer are that the low pressure produces Ing. We sprayed our 18 doors and four drawers _ little overspray, so most of your paint ends up inless than 90 minutes per coat. The sprayer where you want it—on the daors~and the occasionally “spits” paint, but the Floetrol that spray is easy to control 34 oxcerievinay2010 thetamilynanayman.comwmilyhandyman.com ‘eam how tomake simple cabinet repairs at thefamiyhandymanveabinetfi If you have doors with coarse wood grain (like oak) and want a smooth finish, fill in the grain with spackling com- pound (MH Ready Patch is one brand; $6 at home centers) Use a putty knife to skim-coat the door with compound, working it into the wood grain. Wait for it to dry, sand it with medium-grit sandpaper, then prime it again. Complete the transformation with paint Use a gloss or semigloss latex enamel paint for your cabi- nets, ts hard, shiny finish resists stains and fingerprints, ‘To get started, pour a gallon of the paint into a bucket and thin it with hall a cup of water and half a quart of Floetrol paint additive ($9 per qt.). The water and the Floetrol level ut the paint when it’s applied and slow the drying process, which helps eliminate brush and lap marks. The thinner paint also provides a more even coat when you're spraying. Paint the cabinets with a brush (Photo 6). Paint an entire rail, stile or trim piece before the paint dries, then move on. to the next part of the cabinet. Paint any exposed sides of cabinets with a brush. Most light brush marks will disap- pear as the paint dries (thanks to the Floetrol), Before spray painting, construct a makeshift booth to con- tain the airborne spray. Assemble a work surface (putting boards over sawhorses works great), then hang plastic sheet- ing around the work area, Make sure to ventilate the room— even if it’s just a fan blowing out an open window. Fill the spray container with the paint mixed with Floetrol and water. Wear a mask respirator ($8) when spray painting. Test the spray pattern on cardboard, keeping the nozzle 10 to 12 in. from the surface (Photo 7). Sweep your entire arm back and forth across the door panel; don’t just use your wrist. Practice spraying on the cardboard to get a feel for the sprayer. When you're ready to paint, set a block of wood or a cardboard box on the work surface to elevate the doors. Place a lazy Susan turntable ($8 at discount stores) over the box, then set the door on top of it (Photo!) Spray the back of the doors first. This lets you get used to spraying before you paint the front. Stast by spraying the edges. Rotate the door on the turntable to paint each edge so you won't have to change your body position. Move your ‘arm across the entire edge of the door, starting the spray before the paint lands on the door, and keep spraying past Practice spray painting on cardboard. Adjust the nozzle to get a vertical fan pattern, Adjust the flow rate so the paint covers ‘the surface without running. Oo Paint the drawers with the sprayer after wrapping the inside with plastic or paper. Paint the backs first, then the ledges and then the faces, starting at the top and working down. Start and stop the spray past the sides of the drawer. Figure A Painting doors ‘Spray the door edges first Then spray any detail work ‘Then spray the entire door, starting at the top and ‘sweeping your arm back and forth until you reach the bottom. Keeo the angle of the spray gun consistent as you spray, 56Set the doors on a turntable when spray painting. Then you Can stand in one spot ansirotate the door to paint each side. Keep the nozzle 10 to 2 in. from the door and maintain a consis tent angle while spraying. Coe pg Paint the edge and detail work on one side, then turn the door to paint the adjacent edges and detalls. Start the spray before the door, and keep spraying past the edge. Don't worry it ‘you missed a spot. You can catch it on the second coat. Fix paint runs with a paintbrush while the paint is still wet. If the paint Is dry or tacky, walt until the next day, then sand ‘out the run or Imperfection and repaint. the end. Keep the nozzle 10 to 12 in. from the door. After painting all four edges, start at the top of the door and spray in @ sweeping motion back and forth, moving down just ‘enough each time to overlap the previous pass by 50 percent until you reach the door bottom. Let the paint dry overnight. Then give the cabinet frames, sides and trim a second coat. Spray a first coat on the door fronts (Photo) Cover the drawers with masking paper or plestic sheeting so only the paintable surface is visible, Set the drawer face MP vox oasssraves ve yuretcnen cabinets? Goto thefamiykandyar kithenshelves. J“ Reinstall the doors and drawers in the kitchen. At & hinges to the doors frst, then screw them to the cabinet frames, down on the tumtable and spray the back. Then place the drawer on its bottom and spray the front (Photo10). Be care- ful not to overspray the drawer, I's easy to get rans in the paint on drawer fronts. Don't worry about areas that are ightly covered. You'll give everything a second coat. If you catch paint runs while they're still wet, gently brush them out with a paintbrush (Photo), Let the doors and drawors dry overnight, then give them second coat. It's up to you if you want to give the back of the doors two coats. We gave ours just one. ‘When the doors are dry, install the hardware and hang the doors (Phato 12). If any paint seeped into the hinge holes, scrape it out so the hinges will fit snugly. { tnatamiiynenayman.com Decenbavianay 2010 S7Dreaming The top reasons for buying new windows... and how to tell if you need them ke 3 Po ta f by Duane Johnson editors@thefamilynandyman.com ew windows can be the most exciting and dra- matic improvement you can make to your home—changing how it looks and feels, and even raising its market value--Unfor: tunately, new windows are expen= sive, even if you do all the installa tion yourself, Here are the top five problems with old windows and how you can solve them. STOCKBHOTOCOMERIE VEGA Tess aurea) SB oecertevanion2000 thetamilynandyman-com, 3If your house feels cool and drafty in the winter, chances are you have leaky windows. Turning up the ther- mostat and putting on a sweater ‘won't always bring comfort, especial- ly ona windy day. New windows will solve this prob- lem instantly. When properly installed, they are virtually airtight You'll immediately feel the differ- ence. Your house will be snug and ‘Sree of most drafts. Depending on the air leakage of your old windows, you could also see a 10 to 30 percent reduction in your heating (or cool- ing) bills, because old windows often account for up to one-third of home's energy loss. It’s frustrating when you have to struggle to open or close a window because the sash sticks or won't stay up, the crank won't turn, the sash ‘won't latch or the hinges are broken Installers tell us that they see these problems in homes only'10 years old. The original windows in many homes are not top quality. On the other hand, new windows, especially those of a major brand, will operate smoothly and easily, and should give you years of trouble-free service. Should you fix the windows or replace them? To answer this ques- tion, first inspect all your windows {or signs of wear. Common problems include binding sashes, hardware that’s not working, cracks in vinyl, Drafts may seem like they're coming from windows even when they're not. Often air leaks occur around the trim rather than around the sash, for exam- ple. You can usually fix this yourself by remaving trim and insulating, (Go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search for “stop window drafts.”) If the leaks occur only around a few, frequently opened windows, you may be able to fix them with new weather stripping, latches or closers. (See No. 2.) Or call a window repair specialist for an estimate. The cost of profession- al window repair might seem high, but it may be much less than the cost of new windows. (On a windy or cold day, move a smoking Incense stick along the perimeter of your “drafty” windows to detect either incoming or outgoing aliflows. Make sure to note whether leakage occurs around the win- dow sash itself or around the trim, Probe exposed wood corners annually with a screwdriver or other sharp tool, ooking for soft spots that indicate rot, Check the lower edges of wood trim as wel. and wood rot. Installers tell us that most of the mechanical parts on lower- quality windows tend to fail at about the same time. If only a few windows have prob- lems, have a window repair specialist give you a bid. Then compare it with the cost of complete replacement. You can replace most types of hardware yourself. This is a good strategy if only fa few windows have hardware prob- lems. The trick is to find identical replacement parts. Finding replace- ‘ment parts for major brand windows (Andersen, Marvin, Jeld-Wen, Pella and Weather Shield, for example) is fairly easy. First look for 2 manufacturer label on the top, bottom or edges of the sash, or at the comer of the glass Then call the manufacturer and ask about parts sources. If you can’t find Jamilyhandyman.com Oneneevanan20%0 $9ror recent the manufactarer’s name, check local hardware stores and home centers for identical replacement hardware. Or search online for “window repair parts” or “window weather stripping | replacement.” {Two good sources are truthhardware.com and blainehard- ware.com.) Up to a point, you can also fix wood rot. First, eliminate the source of moisture if you can; for example, a leaking gutter or ineffective flashing Dig out the rot and fill with epoxy or other fillers, caulk and repaint If you're sick and tired of scraping and painting wood windows every few years, it may be time for change. New windows with mainte. nance-free exteriors will eliminate those time-consuming chores. All- vinyl or composite windows, and windows with vinyl or aluminum exterior cladding, won't rot_ and don't need painting. The double- pane glass eliminates the need for (Go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search for “epoxy wood repair.”) Replace rotting trim. If you can't repair the rotted area, you'll have to replace the window. If your windows have mainte- nance-free exteriors (aluminum or vinyl-covered), be vigilant as well ‘ins running down the siding below windows sometimes indicate @ seal failure and the beginning of rot behind the cladding. Look for open joints and flaking or peeling caulk. Clean the bad joints and recaulk storm windows. And new window mechanisms allow you to rotate the sashes and wash your windows from the inside; no more climbing ladders. If your old windows are basically in good condition and you're not up for the maintenance chores, hire a professional painter or home mainte- nance pro to service and clean your windows annually, It'll take about @ day every year. IF you want to keep your old windows in working order for as long as possible, it’s a good investment. Low-maintenance exteriors on new win= ows eliminate the painting chore and allow cleaning from the inside. Nice!ce ee Saree ee New high-efficiency windows will cut your heating and cooling costs. Unfortunately, this alone is generally not a good reason to replace windows. Stopping air leaks, especially by thor- ough exterior caulking and sealing attic bypasses, is the most important step toward energy efficiency. (Go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search for “attic air leaks.") The energy sav- ings from new windows alone is unlikely to cover their costs, even with a federal tax credit. An energy audit will show you the most cost- effective improvements, and the audi- tor can assess your windows at the same time. For more information, go to thefamilyhandyman.com and search for “energy audit.” However, if you have to replace your windows anyway, buy the most energy efficient ones you can afford. They'll cost a little more (10 to 20 percent), but the additional savings will usually pay you back in the long Many less-expensive strategies will bring significant savings. For exam- ple, to tighten drafty double-hung and slider windows, you can add exterior storms ($100 to $200; prota below). If your existing windows look shab- by, whether it’s from many layers of paint, permanent water stains, or general wear and tear, consider new windows, New windows will vastly improve the appearance of a room \ —_—____ e High-efficiency lass reduces energy loss and ‘will make your home more cam- fortable. it's a _200d investment ‘when it comes time to buy new windows. Another lower-cost option is to mount storms on the inside, (To help you locate this option, search online for “interior storm windows.”) Or you can simply cover windows with heavy drapes at night to cut drafts and reduce heat toss, Tight-fitsing storm windows will reduce ‘drafts from leaky double-hung or siding windows, and will add to the market value of your home. It's possible to refurbish old win- dows—chemically strip and refinish both sash and trim, restain or paint, reputty, install new glass and/or replace hardware—but it’s time con- suming, and usually more expensive than replacement if you have to hire pros. Two exceptions are windows that have historic value and win- dows that are unique and can't be duplicated at a reasonable price. {2by Elisa Berrick editors@thetamilyhandyman.com Alternative energy windows Doors Tax credits from Uncle Sam Uncle Sam wants you to save energy. To nudge you in the right direction, there's money in the stimulus package in the form of tax credits for homeowners who make qualified energy-related improvements to their homes. Similar tax credits have been around since 2005, but the new stimu Jus package raises the amount of the credit and extends the improvement deadlines. Qualified improvements run the gamut from insulating your attic to replacing your old furnace with a high-efficiency model. Obviously the promise of a tax credit isn't going to persuade all of us to replace our inefficient HVAC systems. But if you're considering making energy upgrades to your homne, read on to find out which of the qual- ified DIY-friendly projects will pay you back, 66 os In anutshel Youcan get a federal tax creit for qualified energy-related home improvements. Uness otherwise noted, to quality forte tax cred it The merovements must be installed and operational between lan 2009, and Dec 3, 2030 (2016 for alternative energy systems) a Theimprovernent must be installedin you primary residence. 1 The tax creat is for 30 percent of the cost of materials only (no labor) upto a maximum of $1,500 per house forall te improvements com’ bined (except HVAC and alternative enegy sisters). 1 You need tole RS form 3695 (ast yout tx advisor or £0 tS. 80¥) and eep a certication statement from the manufacturer and pur- chase recebtin your files Make sue you tke advantage of state and local rebates for energy improvements too, Goto dseusa.rg to se wich programs ae offered imyourstate RIT. EXCEPT WHERE NOTED 2A KOEHLER - Prtoay MaKe sn recton SaSeal and insulate ‘Most types of insulation, spray foam, ‘wraps, sealants and tapes qualify as long as they have a five-year life span or a two-year warranty, and also meet recommended R-values in the 2009 International Energy Conservation Code (go to energytaxincentives.org, for specific information). The primary purpose of the insulation must be to insulate for energy efficiency, so insulated siding or sound insulation doesn’t qualify because energy sav- ings is the secondary purpose. Many types of qualifying insulation products are widely available at home centers. For information about ‘specific brands and products, go to certainteed.com, awenscornng.com, greenfiber.com, energystar.gov/taxcredits, simplyinsulate.com ane other manufac turer Web sites, Replace your roof ‘Metal roofing and asphalt shingles with an Energy Star rating qualify. It might seem strange to put roofing in the ener- gy efficiency bucket, but some roofing materials have reflective qualities that can significantly reduce cooling costs. ‘The roofing material must be expected to last five years or have a two-year warranty, For @ typical roof, Energy Star-rated roofing materials add about $3,000 to the price tag. But the $1,500 tax credit will cover half of that. Add on the energy savings over the next five years and you'll even recoup the $1,500 that came out of your pocket. CertainTeed ‘Landmark Solaris Solar Reflective Roofing Shingles (above) land Fabral's Enduracote metal rooting, products (top of the page) qualify for the tax crecit and ave avaliable ina variety of styles and colors. For more information, 0 to certainteed.com, fabral.com and feere.eneray gov/weatherization. Replace older windows and doors Only highly efficient doors and win- dows quelify for the tax credit. They must have a U-factor (which measures heat Joss) and an SHGC (solar heat gain coefficient, which measures heat gain) below 0.30 to minimize heating and cooling costs. An insulated garage door also qualifies if it meets that same standard and is installed on an insulated garage. These high-efficien- cy products carry a bigger price tag, ‘but if you're going to replace your doors and windows anyway, the tax credit and energy savings can make it worthwhile (see “Dreaming of New Windows?” on p. 58). AL Andersen EcoExcel windows and patio doors qualify for the energy tax credit Many Marvin LoE2-272 and LoE-366 win- dows, Simonton ETC glass packages, and others also qualify. For more information, 0 to door and window manufacturer Web sites and ntrc.org for a directory of certified products. GB cecenbevianian 2010 thefamilynandyman.comSe ace spy os, Rena ao ot rene hue SUE ena) Baars Discover the Kreg Jig’ today, at www.kregiig.com! www.kregiig.com | 800.447.9638 Replace your furnace, A/C or water heater Installing high-efficiency HVAG (heating, ventilation, air condition- Jing) equipment isn’t a typical DIY jab, But fortunately, unlike other qualified improvements, the tax credit offers 30 percent off, up to $1,500, on both materials and labor. Again, only the most effi- Clent models qualify for the tax credit and those typically cost $0 to 40 percent more than less efficient equipment. Also, while some tank- less water heaters qualify, very few conventional gas storage or con- densing water heaters do. But if you're considering replacing your HVAC equipment, the combination of the tax rebate and the energy sav- ings over time can make this a great time to make the switch. This is especially true if you're upgrading an old A/G unit with highly eff cient equipment or replacing your fentional water heater with a ankless unit. For more information on energy-efficient HVAG equip- ment, check out "Cut Your Cooling Costs," July/Aug. ‘09, . 63, and “Save Big! Replace Your Energy Guzzlers,” Jan. 703, p18 A.O. Smith Vertex models and tankless. Units with thermal effi ciency of 90 percent or higher or an EF (energy factor) value of 82 0° higher qualify for the tax credit. For more information, go to hot- Invest in alternative energy Alternative energy systems include solar water heaters, geothermal heat pumps, solar panels, solar fans and wind energy. ‘The stimulus gives you an even better deal on these pricier systems—there’s no dollar cap on the tax credit. Instead, you get a credit of 30 percent on both materials and labor, and the eredit applies far sys- tems operational by Dec. 41, 2016. The tax credit applies to stalled on any house you own, not just your primary residence. If you decide ta install one of these systems, koep the tax credit in mind as well as acentives from utilities and state and local governments, The Solar Star attic fan oy Solatube Inter- lisa solar-powered ventilation system that cools attics. Both itand the Solar Star on Kit, nverts tracitional vents into solar-powered vents, {ualify. For more information on tho Visit solatube.com. For info on photo- voltaic panels, go to planete-energles. cam. To find aut more about wind nower, go to windpoweringamerica gov smalLwinasp and ases.org, A watercom, ceel.org FL. IBD and enargystar-gov. FO cecemavianary200 thefamilyhandyman.comotosonhy TOM FENENGA 208 UNGAR QUESTION tee Si QUESTION Prevent pipes from freezing | insulated the heating ducts in my crawl space and my pipes froze. | can’t insulate the walls of the crawl space because it's vented to the outside, How can\insulate the pipes to keep them from freezing? For starters, forget about using fiber- glass or the foam pipe insulation sold at home centers. At best, it provides an insulation value of R-3.8, That’s not ‘enough to prevent frozen pipes during extended cold periods, Plus, it's diffi- cull to install on existing pipes, espe- cially when the pipes run along the length of a floor joist. So we put our heads together and came up with a solution that we're all but positive will ‘work for you. One of the editors used this fix to successfully insulate freeze: prone pipes on an outside wall. Here's how it works. Build + duct system around the pipes with 2+in.- by Rick Muscoplat ‘editors @thetamilyhandyman.com thick rigid extruded polystyrene foam (R-10). It works by drawing heated household air through the foam duct and back into the house. Start by lacat- ing a spot near the pipes on one end of the craw] space near a wall and cut a5 x 10-in. hole in the floor above. This exhaust hole should be near an electri- cal outlet. Cut another hole at the far end of the pipes to fit a conventional floor vent—the size is up to you Next, construct the duct by running the foam down a few inches below the pipes to create enough room for thefamityhandyman.com oscabevtaniay200 7airflow. Glue the lengths together with PL-300 blue construction adhesive and pin them with screws or nails until the adhesive sets up. Crosscut individual foam pieces to “cap off” any open joist areas. Cutting is easy with a circular or table saw. Use the same method to encase verti- cal riser pipes and pipes that run along the length of a joist. Once all pipes are enclosed, glue on end caps Buy a duct booster fan (available in the HVAG department at home centers for $34) and place it over the exhaust vent, Run the fan full time at low speed during freezing weather (that'll cost about $3 per month). WARNING: Foam insulation is flammable and produces toxic smoke when burning. You must follow these safety precautions: * Koop crawl space lights at least 6 ft. away from the foam duct. * Never use electrical heating tape inside the foam duct. * Do not installa fan inside the duct * Do not tap into an existing HVAC duct to supply heat to the foam duct. QUESTION Keeping cold brews in the garage We got a new refrigerator and put the old side- by-side in the garage, The food in the fridge side stays cool, but the freezer doesn't keep the food frozen in cold weather, What eves? Most_ refrigerators use a single compres- sor to cool the freezer and the cold-food com partment, Unfortunately, there's only one thermostat and it's inside the cold-food section. So, if the temperature in the garage stays about 38 degrees F, the thermostat never turns on, The cold air chills the food in the refrigerator, but it's not cold enough to keep frozen food solid (the ideal freezer temperature is 0 degrees), ‘You may be able to solve your prob- lem by installing a “garage kit,” a heat- ing coil to warm the air around the thermostat. The warmer air makes the compressor run longer and keops frozen food, well, frozen. Check with the manufacturer to see ifit makes one for your model. Find the model number of your refrigera- torand contact the manufacturer's parts department to see ifit offers a garage kit {for your unit. This one costs $20. But before you shell out $20 for the kit, consider how much you'll have to spend to keep your brews chilled and pizzas frozen in the summer. Your old fridge is less efficient than your new one, so it’s already costing you more to run, Add 25 percent to run the old clunker in an 80-degree garage. Then double the bill if it's running in a garage at 90 degroes and up. Are you sure you want to pay that much just to savea trip to the kitchen? ‘COMMENT Alert: Great “deals” on circuit breakers put your family at risk ‘The number of counterfeit electrical parts boing sold in the United Statos hhas now reached crisis proportions. Counterfeiters focus their efforts on duplicating expensive circuit break ers (think GFCIs and AFCis—ground fault circuit interrupters and atc fault circuit interrupters) and selling them fora fraction of the retail price. The fakes are made from inferior materials, and they're virtually indistinguishable from the genuine articles. Even if they conduct elec- tsicity, they may not provide over load protection and may actually be R dangerous. Several fires have already been attributed to these products. ‘Many of the counterfeit breakers are being sold by unauthorized dealers through online stores and auction sites. In addition to the counterfeits, they're also selling old units (many salvaged from homes flooded during recent storms) and labeling them as new. To avoid getting ripped off on counterfeit or other questionable electrical parts, always buy from an authorized dealer {check the manufacturer's Wab site for dealer names). Don’t buy electrical compo- nents (breakers, extension cords or surge strips) from closeout stores or auction sites. Be suspicious of prices that are “too good to be true. Toprove the point, we bought this new" $444 FCI circuit breaket from. an auction site for $60. That's less thana third of the ‘wholesaler's cost, We con tacted Square Danddiscov- ‘ered that this breaker is actu- ally 16 years: old. The seller isNOTan authorized dealer. Where hasit been for the past 16 years and why isitsocheap? ({iieQUESTION OSB vs. plywood My neighbor built a shed and used OSB for the sheathing and roof deck. He said t's just as good as plywood. | always thought it was {an inferior product. What's the deal with ose? Opinions run pretty strong on both sides of this argument. Some builders swear by OSB. Others swear at it. Just ade) (8) a Pac ) READY R THIS? Check all that apply: Ihave a collection of old dull drill bits 1 just can’t ‘throw away. ''d rather spend my money ‘onnew tools than on ‘buying more drill bts. [know | should sharpen ‘my drill bits, but I don’t hhave time to become a sharpening expert. I want to drill clean, precise holes every time. I'm tired of searching in ac don't confuse OSB (oriented strand voard) with wafer board, which vwas introduced in the early ‘60s. OSB is wafer board on steroids. It’s made from about 50 layers of 3- to 4-in. wood strands piled at right angles and sealed with water-resis- tant adhesives and wax. OSB experienced some failures when it was introduced (plywood suffered similar failures when it first came out in 1905). But those early falluros have boon addressed, and tnodern OSB is a quality prod- uuct. The Engineered Wood Asso- ciation now states that “when used as intended, OSB and plywood are interchangeable.” In fact, the shear strength of OSB is twice that of plywood. And, despite opinions to the contrary, lab tests prove that it holds nails just as well as plywood. Those findings mean you can substitute OSB on your project without any worries. Just follow these simple precautions: First, keep it (and plywood for that mattor) dry on the job site OSB can resist the normal rainfall you encounter during construc- tion. But keep it off the ground and covered with a tarp until you're ready to use it Next, seal all cut edges with a high-quality 100 percent acrylic latex paint. Most carpenters skip this step. But cut edges can swell Up to 15 percent if they got wot, and edge sealing helps with water resistance, especially if a new building won't get buttoned up right away. Finally, check your cal building codes to make sure that OSB is approved for your application, Te vecembaitanny 200QUESTION Using CFL bulbs in garage door openers ‘The lightbulb in my garage door opener burns out frequently. | want to install a CCFL bulb for longer ife and energy sav- ings. But my neighbor claims that his opener "burned up” after he installed a CFL bulb. If can't install a CFL, what do. you recommend for longer bulb life? ‘We contacted the two largest residen- tial garage door opener companies to, ask about CFLs and possible damage to the opener. Both companies state that CFLs will NOT damage your opener. However, since electrical interference from the CFL ballast can reduce the operating range of your transmitter, they recommend always using an incandescent bulb. Garage door openers produce a lot of vibration, so that’s probably what's killing your bulbs. First, tighten all the bolts on your unit and make sure it's solidly mounted to the ceiling Then, install a “rough service” bulb, These bulbs have heavy-duty fila- ments with extra support wires to keep them from breaking, Before any- one sends us letters about how “un- green” incandescent bulbs are, wait a minute, The average opener light is on only a few minutes a day. If your opener doesn't have a plas- tic lens, the bulb is unprotect choose a rough-service bulb with protestive coating, The coating pre vents the glass ftom shattering if it's ever struck, a Pick upa standard, rough-service bulb ($250) ora coated version ($5) at any home center. wromman 200 7S QUESTION ‘Then run low-voltage (24-gauge) wire in parallel between the sensors and Freeze sensor and relay back to the control module (No. 2450; saves electricity $46). The sensor closes a switch when the temp goes below 40 degrees F. The control module signals a remote X10 module (No. 245683; $35) to turn the power to your heat- ing cables on and off. Or, use the remote module to power a fan. These ‘tems are available at smnarthome.com. ‘have heat tape wrapped around some plumbing pipes, and always forget to tun Off the juice when it's not needed. That's costing me $2.50 a day. Got any ideas? Use zip ties to attach a few freeze sen- sors (No. 7152: $17 each) to your pipes. en | | Ser ee PSO Most Advanced, Energy-efficient Water Heater You Can Own neem air-source heat pump extracts the heat from warm air, intensifies the heat with ‘a compressor, delivers the heat to the water 2.0 energy (refer Over TWICE the efficiency of standard electric water heaters * Rheem heat pump technology tor swperb eneroy-eficiency * LED touch pad con a * Easy to install * Standard connections * 50 Gallon capacity * Fast first hour recovery ™ Visit us today? nis oleceeuliy ei. CU) ‘email sales@rheemhpwh.comINSTANT PROJECT Indoor hopscotch mat Blustety days don’t have to be boring if you make your kids this super-easy hop- scotch mat! All you need is a 10-f. utility runner with a nonskid back, duct tape, number stencils and spray paint. Home centers sell utility runners by the foot ($2 to $3 per linear foot depending on the color). Number stencils come in a variety of type styles and sizes at art supply and craft stores. The toughest partis getting the 10 boxes measured evenly, Our 10-ft, runner is 3 ft wide, so each box is 12 in. long and 18 in. wide, Cut and place the duct tape where you want it and press it down firmly (Photo). Then tape each number in the center of its box (Photo 2). Mask off the areas around the numbers when you spray the paint onto the stencils. Let it dry overnight and get hopping in the morn- ing! Use beanbags, Koosh balls (shown), stuffed animals or other soft toys instead of stones so you don’t scratch wood floors or other inside surfaces. When everyone's done playing, roll up the mat and store it for next time Use a rolling pin or wooden dowel to press the duct tape down firmly soit doesn’t come off when you rll up the mat, tostore't, 76 by Elisa Bernick yhandyman.com BECKY PFLUGER -Phtoeaaty TOM FENENGA (Center each number stencil in the middle of the appro box, and then tape itn place. Mask off the areas around the numbers and then spray the paint on the stencils.Lazy Susan tree stand for wood floors Winding the lights around our Christ mas tree was always a pain Then we found a great way to rotate the tree in its stand—without scratching up our hardwood floor. We put a bath rug underneath the tree stand, fabric side down, rubber side up. Now we can eas- ily turn the tree to string our lights and place our ornaments just where we want them. It makes “undeco- rating” the tree a breeze too. We fold the rug under the tree skirt to koep it hidden. Joseph and Grace Natale Easy bolt tightening ‘Tightening tree-stand nuts by hand is tiring and takes forever. Try this, our favorite Christmas tree hint from our atchives: Cut off the little L’s at the end of the tree. stand bolts with a hacksaw. Chuck the ends of the bolts into a variable-speed drill and tighten them into the trunk. Your tree will be secure, and you can get out from underneath the tree and get decorating 7B veconbavanuny 2010 thetamiiyhangyman.com Cui pa Tad Tip-proof, drip-proof lazy Susan for carpet We've tried different tree stands over the years, but we've still had treos fall over—because they either were top heavy with ornaments or got tipped over by the cat. I came up with this easy solution: I cut @ 2-f-diameter circle out of plywood, screwed my tree stand to it end then stapled plastic sheeting to the plywood. The wooden base gives our tree solid footing and even the cat can't topple it {not that she doesn't keep trying). The plastic helps us slide the tree around on the carpet for easy dec- orating and protects the carpet from any watering spills, Agnes GurtweilierTree in a tube—to go, please We like the convenience of our artificial tree but dislike storing it because it takes up so darn T came up with this idea. I use two 8-in. much space. diameter concrete form tubes, wrap each layer of the twine and store half the tree layers in one tube and half in zach tube and stow the other. I mark the layer numbers on the tubes in my garage refters. A perfect solution! Dave Hickey Handy clips for outdoor lights We use plastic 7 picnic table- cloth clips to 5 attach Christmas lights to our deck railing. It makes putting them up and taking them down a cinch! Herb Goettmann See p. 2 for details. BO omerowtanan 200 thetamilyhandyman.com Hose reel for holiday lights ‘They call me “Mr. Christ- mas” because I love deco- my house with tons of lights inside and out. My wife calls this my holiday obses- sion. I prefer to think of it es my holiday passion. To keep all the lights from getting i tangled and make | it easy to string / them around my yard, 1 rolled about 30 strings of lights onto a portable hose reel that has wheels and a handle. Now I can pull the lights around my yard and roll off as many as | need without any help from elves (or my wife), and everybody's happy. Ho ho ho. Stephen Davis ! Labeled tree layers. Artificial Christmas trees are assembled in color-coded lay- ers, After a few years, the colors rub off (or you lose the instructions), and putting the tree together gets confusing, ‘Try this simple tick. When you disassemble the tree at the ead of the season, do it one level at a time. Once all the branches from one level are off, duct-tape them together and number each layer with a marker. Next year, the tree will go together in a snap! Greg WoodKe @ ee Skip ‘i WORDLESS . veoonnnan pleated Log-slice rod holder a ‘Ourthanks go to Michael Riley, Eiko, MN, for thisidea. Get $100 for your Wordless Workshop idea! See Contributor Guidelines on p. 2. 86 cecertevtansay 2010 thetamitynaneyman-ce =iC) a EAT sratgotsgitterinnmnynencom Lolo) gs Snow job gone wrong My wife isn't exactly a farm girl You know, not well acquainted with running machinery. So I was sur- * prised when she called me at workto t a say she was going to clear the snow out of our driveway with the garden tractor snowblower. I was quite happy to skip snow- blowing in the dark after work. But when | got home, the driveway was an absolute mess. Woirdly shaped piles of snow were everywhere, along with ruts across the driveway into the lawn—not exactly the bang- up job I'd been hoping for. We plodded through * the drifts to rescue the tractor, which was stuck in a snowbank. I climbed aboard and fired it up. x My wife got the most incredulous look on her faco—she had no idea there was a switch that existed solely to turn on the snowblower — Steve Doherty s , | 5. , 3 ee 7 Doesn't smell like Christmas 2 i : My husband and I were excited about |3 "= tp bringing home our very first Christmas| ee. . | tree during our first year of marriage. We | ) he picked out the perfect tree at a Christmas tree farm, cut it down our- selves and even managed to get it home on top of our car. We left it in the yard by the sidewalk, intending to set it up the next morning. : It’s never where you left it When we brought it inside the next |® We live on a busy road and our driveway’s very steep. One snowy day and put it in the stand, wo realized | § evening when I came home from work, the driveway was just too that it was giving off a rank smell. | 5 slick to climb with my pickup. No matter how many runs I took at it, During the night, every roving dog in the | ¥ I could only make it halfway up the driveway to the gerage before I neighborhood must have come by to |% lost traction. “mark” our tree, We went back to the |Z Frustrated, I decided to just lock my pickup where it was and call tree farm and bought another tree, but 3 ta night. After a blissfully ignorant night's sleep, I grabbed my morn- the whole experience had lost a bit ofits | 1g joe, walked outside and mentally prepared to get back to the old luster. & grind, But my truck was gone! I looked around in a panic before spot- — Allison Meyer 5 ting it—the truck had slid down the driveway, across the sidewalk 8 and was blocking half the street. Miraculously, no one had broad- Got your own do-it-yourself mistake? sided it during the night. Get $100 for your Great Goof! — Bill Parcish See Contributor Guidelines on p. 2. BB owcermayanay/200 thefamilynandyman.com