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Jerrys World
By Pooja Bhatia
y first Port-au-Prince infatuation was graffiti. Aba Satan! Viv Preval! We pa we, Aristide
ap tounen! screamed the walls. The graffiti was
everywhere, and I tried to decode it, not just to
improve my Kreyol, but also to read the citys
mood.
Last summer, while President Prval struggled to convince a recalcitrant Senate to confirm
his nominee for Prime Minister, unknown scribes
blanketed the tippy top of Petionville down to
the farthest reaches of the Grande Rue with a
single phrase: Bob Manuel=Skirite. Despite
variations on the spelling of security, the graffiti stayed obdurately on-message. It had all the
uniformity and ubiquity of Starbucks.
By then Id long known that Haitis graffiti is
sponsored. Politicians mostly, but also Haitians
nursing grudges or eyeing a prize, pay poor
young men to extol their names and slander
their nemeses. During the end of the Duvalier
dictatorship, Haitis walls bore marks of genuine
sentiment from the genuinely downtrodden. No
doubt some still do. But since then, Haitis pow-
Institute of Current
World Affairs
The Crane-Rogers Foundation
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express written consent of the Institute of
Current World Affairs.
PAB-6
masquerading-as-authentic graffiti, Jerrys work is extraordinary. No one pays him. He doesnt shill for politicians
or extol a religion. Instead of scrawling exhortations, Jerry
draws pictures. In fact, words are nearly absent in Jerrys
world, save these: Spre pa la pou ekri ni aba ni vote. Graffiti
isnt here to write down with or vote.
But thats just one piece of his genius. His work func-
Jerry received a $100 kado, or gift, to paint this mural for Patizan, a band in
Carrefour Feuilles. Jerrys the best, the lead singer of Patizan explained.
PAB-6
Prostitutes dilemma
been accused of stealing peasants goats.) He wouldnt spray fordable medicines, and generally manifest impatience,
paint that because, Minustah would definitely find me and rather than understanding, toward non-compliance. The
kill me. Jerry was serious. He wouldnt even let me keep patient escaping from a window testifies to the horrible
the sketch.
conditions that obtain in state-run hospitals. Since the
government pays doctors in public hospitals a pittance,
He planned a three-week trip to the United States. they are prone to strikeas they did in NovemberleavA group of former ENARTS classmates had arranged at- ing the sick poor without any hope of care.
tendance at an arts exposition in Florida, and Jerry had a
hard-won, three-week visa. But he couldnt get cash for
In January, the government proposed a tax of four
the ticket in time to attend. Jerry planned to go to the States
anyway while he had the visa, he said, probably in the next
few days. I wanted to spend as much time as possible with
him before he left. It turned out to be a week.
Humans fight cell phones and vice versa. (Photo courtesy: Matthew Marek)
Jerry and his friends called me at midnight one night to invite me to watch Jerry do more graffiti.
They were nearby, on Rue Capois, so I changed out of my
pajamas and went to watch.
For long bouts of graffiti-making, Jerry usually wears
a bandana over his nose and mouth, gloves, and glasses,
mostly to protect himself from the spray paints noxious
fumes. Hed prefer a full-on gas mask, but theyre expensive. That evening, though, he wore nothing.
Jerry and his friends pose in front of one of Jerrys murals in Bas
Peu de Choses Jerrys in back with a bandanna covering his face.
Wolf is on the far left, James with a bandanna-d head, Junior
squats, Manno wears a baseball cap, Pierrina is the girl, and
Rodolph, on the right, displays a Jerry-original t-shirt.
The wall was gray and blank one moment; almost the
next, two men appeared, fighting (with forks) over a roasted
chicken. Actually, it took Jerry about 10 minutes to spray the
image, including a break while a police car drove by. Jerrys
friends/helpers moved to the sidewalk and talked in a cluster or crossed their arms, feigning nonchalance, while Jerry
moved away from the image and pretended, like so many
men in Port-au-Prince, to be taking a long leak. The police
didnt stop. Junior surmised they were en route to a nearby
roadblock to monitor the late-night dancehall and drinking
PAB-6
Jerry creates
a Haitian food fight
Jerry and his father pose at the campingsupplies store where Mr. Moise works.
his 24-year-old recklessness. He asked me to write a letter
for him explaining that he delayed his return to help me
with this newsletter. Not wanting to lie to the Department of
Homeland Security, I refused. His dossier is now smudged.
Studying in the United States, emigrating, and even visiting
will be more difficult. So I worry about him. Ive promised to
take him to an information session on Fulbright scholarships,
but applicants need a bachelors degree, and Jerry dropped
out of awful ENARTS. Maybe I am overly optimistic, but I
think hell find something else.
o
11
Current Fellows
Elena Agarkova RUSSIA
May 2008 - 2010
Elena is living in Siberia, studying management of
natural resources and the relationship between Siberias natural riches and its people. Previously, Elena
was a Legal Fellow at the University of Washingtons
School of Law, at the Berman Environmental Law
Clinic. She has clerked for Honorable Cynthia M. Rufe
of the federal district court in Philadelphia, and has
practiced commercial litigation at the New York office of Milbank, Tweed, Hadley & McCloy LLP. Elena
was born in Moscow, Russia, and has volunteered for
environmental non-profits in the Lake Baikal region
of Siberia. She graduated from Georgetown University Law Center in 2001, and has received a bachelors
degree in political science from Barnard College.
Pooja Bhatia HAITI
September 2008 - 2010
Pooja attended Harvard as an undergraduate, and
then worked for the Wall Street Journal for a few
years. She graduated from Harvard Law School. She
was appointed Harvard Law School Satter Human
Rights Fellow in 2007 and worked as an attorney
with the Bureau des Avocats Internationaux, which
advocates and litigates on behalf of Haitis poor.
Eve Fairbanks SOUTH AFRICA
May 2009 - 2011
Eve is a New Republic staff writer interested in character and in how individuals fit themselves into
new or changing societies. Through that lens, she
will be writing about medicine and politics in the
new South Africa. At the New Republic, she covered
the first Democratic Congress since 1992 and the
2008 presidential race; her book reviews have also
appeared the New York Times. She graduated with a
degree in political science from Yale, where she also
studied music.
Ezra Fieser GUATEMALA
January 2008 - 2010
Ezra is interested in economic and political changes in
Central America. He is an ICWA fellow living in Guatemala where he will write about the countrys rapidly
changing economic structure and the effects on its
politics, culture and people. He was formerly the
deputy city editor for The News Journal (Wilmington,
DE), a staff writer for Springfield Republican (Springfield, MA) and a Pulliam Fellow at The Arizona Republic.