Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
REQUERIMIENTOS EDAFOCLIMTICOS.
4.1 Suelo.
Es un cultivo poco exigente en el tipo de suelo, aunque prefiere los arcillo-arenosos y ricos
en materia orgnica, pero es esencial que el suelo tenga un buen drenaje y la capa fretica
se encuentre a poca profundidad.
El girasol es muy poco tolerante a la salinidad, y el contenido de aceite disminuye cuando
esta aumenta en el suelo.
En suelos neutros o alcalinos la produccin de girasol no se ve afectada, ya que no aparecen
problemas de tipo nutricional.
Es una de las plantas con mayor capacidad para utilizar los residuos qumicos aportados por
las explotaciones anteriores, propiciando un mejor aprovechamiento del suelo, por tanto la
rentabilidad de las explotaciones agrcolas se ve incrementada.
4.2 Temperatura.
Es un factor muy importante en el desarrollo del girasol, adaptndose muy bien a un amplio
margen de temperaturas que van desde 25-30 a 13-17C.
5.4 Abonado.
Debido a la elevada capacidad del sistema radicular del girasol para extraer nutrientes,
este no es muy exigente en cuanto a abonado.
La absorcin de nutrientes se concentra en los primeros estadios de desarrollo de la
planta.
Es un cultivo muy sensible a la toxicidad por aluminio, dificultando su desarrollo
radicular y como consecuencia en la parte area aparecen sntomas de estrs hdrico o
carencia de otros nutrientes como fsforo o magnesio.
-Nitrgeno.
El dficit de nitrgeno es una de las causas del descenso de los rendimientos en el
cultivo del girasol.
Es un elemento necesario para el crecimiento, diferenciacin y desarrollo de sus
rganos.
El sntoma de su deficiencia es una clorosis general en cualquier fase de su desarrollo,
afectando de igual modo a hojas tanto jvenes como viejas.
El exceso de nitrgeno reduce de forma sustancial el aceite de la semilla, pero sin
embargo incrementa el contenido en protenas.
-Fsforo.
El dficit de fsforo repercute directamente tanto en las primeras fases de desarrollo del
cultivo como en la formacin y llenado de los aquenios.
Los sntomas de deficiencia se manifiestan por una reduccin del crecimiento y necrosis
en las hojas ms bajas.
La fertilizacin con superfosfato se aplicar en otoo con dosis de 40-80 kg/ha.
-Potasio.
El potasio acta como regulador en la asimilacin, transformacin y equilibrio interno
de la planta, contribuyendo de forma activa a su resistencia frente a la sequa.
Los sntomas de carencia se presentan a en las hojas ms bajas, mostrando un color
amarillo con manchas necrticas.
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-Molibdeno.
La carencia de molibdeno aparece en los primeros estadios de desarrollo, mostrando las
hojas ms viejas una clorosis con una apariencia abarquillada.
8. ENFERMEDADES.
-Podredumbre gris (Botrytis cinerea).
Este hongo constituye una amenaza permanente en el cultivo del girasol, debido a la
existencia de su forma condica.
Su ciclo de vida comienza a principios de a primavera en los residuos vegetales
existentes en el suelo.
El ataque se manifiesta desde las plntulas, stas se decoloran, las hojas pierden su
turgencia y se retuercen, ablandan y pudren.
Si las condiciones climticas favorecen el desarrollo del hongo, las plantas se cubren de
un polvo gris, formado por los conidiforos y conidios del hongo.
*Control.
-Aplicar tratamientos qumicos con Diclofluanida o Tiofanato-metil Maneb.
-Podredumbre blanca (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum).
El micelio del hongo se puede desarrollar tanto en la superficie como en el interior de
los rganos atacados, sobre todo alrededor del cambium.
El girasol es atacado en todas las fases de su desarrollo, pero son ms susceptibles en la
fase de cotiledones y en la fase de formacin del captulo.
Los primeros sntomas aparecen en la base del tallo formando manchas amarillocastao, que pueden extenderse a todo el tallo.
Los tejidos invadidos se vuelven blancos y se pudren, produciendo la muerte de las
plntulas.
*Control:
-Se recomienda la rotacin del cultivo del girasol de seis-siete aos.
-Evitar el exceso de humedad y los terrenos bajos.
-Aplicar de forma racional abonos orgnicos.
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Storing Sprouts
Store in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator and use sprouts as soon
as possible. Rinsing daily under cold water can extend their life. Mung
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Sprout History
Medicinally and nutritionally, sprouts have a long history. It has been
written that the Ancient Chinese physicians recognized and prescribed
sprouts for curing many disorders over 5,000 years ago. Sprouts have
continued to be a main staple in the diets of Americans of Oriental
descent. Although accounts of sprouting appear in the Bible in the Book
of Daniel, it took centuries for the West to fully realize its nutrition merits.
In the 1700's, sailors were riddled by scurvy (lack of Vitamin C) and
suffered heavy casualties during their two to three year voyages. From
1772-1775, Captain James Cook had his sailors eat limes, lemons and
varieties of sprouts; all abundant holders of Vitamin C. These plus other
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the protein foods for Americans. Meat is 19% and eggs are 13% protein
(and 11% fat). But Soybean sprouts have 28% protein, and lentil and pea
sprouts are 26%. Soybeans sprouts have twice the protein of eggs and
only 1/10 fat the fat.
Grain and nut sprouts, such as wheat and sunflower, are rich in fats.
While fats in flour and wheat germ have a reputation for going rancid
quickly (stores should refrigerate them), fats in sprouts last for weeks.
The valuable wheat germ oil in wheat sprouts is broken down into its
essential fatty acid fractions over 50% of which is the valuable Omega 6.
While sunflower oil is our finest source of omega 6, germination of the
sunflower sprout micellizes the fatty acids into an easily digestible, water
soluble form saving our body the trouble of breaking it down and
simultaneously protecting us against the perils of rancidity. This is a great
bonus for a sprout that is already popular for its crispness and nutty
flavor.
Radish sprouts have 29 times more Vitamin C than milk (29mg vs 1mg)
and 4 times the Vitamin A (391 IU vs 126). These spicy sprouts have 10
times more calcium than a potato (51mg vs 5mg) and contain more
vitamin C than pineapple. If you examine what is happening during
germination, it looks like a vitamin factory. While mature radishes contain
10 IU/100g of provitamin, the radish sprouts contain 391 IU, 39 times
more! No wonder, sprout lovers say you can feel the vitamins!
Phytochemical Factory
Alfalfa, radish, broccoli, clover and soybean contain concentrated
amounts of phytochemicals (plant compounds) that can protect us
against disease. Canavanine, an amino acid analog present in alfalfa,
demonstrates resistence to pancreatic, colon and leukemia cancers. Plant
estrogens in these sprouts function similarly to human estrogen but
without the side effects. They increase bone formation and density and
prevent bone breakdown (osteoporosis). They are helpful in controlling
hot flashes, menopause, PMS and fibrocystic breasts tumors.
Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine researchers found
substantial amounts of glucosinolates and isothiocyanates in broccoli
sprouts which are very potent inducers of phase 2 enzymes that protect
cells from going malignant. The sprouts contain 10-100 times higher
levels of these enzymes than do the corresponding mature plants.
Alfalfa sprouts are one of our finest food sources of saponins. Saponins
lower the bad cholesterol and fat but not the good HDL fats. Animal
studies prove their benefit in arteriosclerosis and cardiovascular disease.
Saponins also stimulate the immune system by increasing the activity of
natural killer cells such as T- lymphocytes and interferon. The saponin
content of alfalfa sprouts multiplies 450% over that of the unsprouted
seed. Sprouts also contain an abundance of highly active antioxidants
that prevent DNA destruction and protect us from the ongoing effects of
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rats who received sprouts rich in glucoraphanin had lower blood pressure
and decreased inflammation of the heart and kidneys.
If humans respond the same way as these laboratory animals, inclusion of
broccoli sprouts in one's diet can have a big effect on one's health.
Because broccoli sprouts are so rich in glucoraphanin, just two to four
ounces (70 - 140 grams) is all that is needed each day. Juurlink estimates
you would have to eat 20 to 50 times as much broccoli to obtain the same
benefits.
* Quotes obtained from University of Saskatchewan Web site at
www.usask.ca
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An Anticancer Clover
When James Duke, Ph.D., an economic botanist and former U.S.
Department of Agriculture researcher, tosses red clover sprouts into
salads, he isn't seeking simply flavor or crunch. Red clover (Trifolium
pratense) contains genistein, an anticancer compound that prevents new
blood vessels from forming with in a tumor. (Genistein can also be found
in soy, black beans and peanuts.) Since tumors rely on new blood vessels
to grow, genistein effectively starves the cancer.
Red clover is one of the world's oldest and
most common natural cancer remedies. In
fact, one study found that 33 cultures use the
herb against the disease. However, it may
create problems for certain cancer patients.
For example, says Labriola, women being
treated for breast cancer with the drug
tamoxifen should avoid red clover because
tamoxifen prevents estrogen from reaching a
tumor, and phytoestrogenic compounds in red
clover could undermine that action. In this
Clover Sprouts
case, it's possible red clover could feed, not
starve, an estrogen-dependent breast tumor, Labriola warns. (Editor's
Note: These same phytoestrogenic compounds can be helpful with
menopausal symptoms in women who wish to naturally increase their
estrogen levels.)
The scientific study of red clover is still new. Although its anticancer
compounds make it an effective cancer-fighting food for some people,
only further research will clarify red clover's future cancer treatment role
(Cancer Research, vol. 48, no. 22).
An Extract from "In Concert Against Cancer",
October, 1998
By Willow Older
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It is really only in the past thirty years that "westerners" have become
interested in sprouts and sprouting. During World War II considerable
interest in sprouts was sparked in the United States by an article written
by Dr. Clive M. McKay, Professor of Nutrition at Cornell University. Dr.
McKay led off with this dramatic announcement: "Wanted! A vegetable
that will grow in any climate, will rival meat in nutritive value, will mature
in 3 to 5 days, may be planted any day of the year, will require neither soil
nor sunshine, will rival tomatoes in Vitamin C, will be free of waste in
preparation and can be cooked with little fuel and as quickly as a ... chop."
Dr. McKay was talking about soybean sprouts. He and a team of
nutritionists had spent years researching the amazing properties of
sprouted soybeans. They and other researchers at the universities of
Pennsylvania and Minnesota, Yale and McGill have found that sprouts
retain the B-complex vitamins present in the original seed, and show a big
jump in Vitamin A and an almost unbelievable amount of Vitamin C over
that present in unsprouted seeds. While some nutritionists point out that
this high vitamin content is gained at the expense of some protein loss,
the figures are impressive: an average 300 percent increase in Vitamin A
and a 500 to 600 percent increase in Vitamin C. In addition, in the
sprouting process starches are converted to simple sugars, thus making
sprouts easily digested.
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Recipes
GREAT WAYS TO SERVE SPROUTS
Parsley-Garlic Dressing
One-half cup of sunflower seed
sprouts
One-eighth cup dried parsley
or
On-quarter cup fresh, chopped
parsley
1 small clove of garlic
Two-thirds cup water
2 tsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. tamari or soy sauce
Blend all ingredients together at
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and/or
1 grated carrot
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Riboflavin 8%
Niacin 2%
Calcium 9%
Iron 7%
Vitamin B6 4%
Vitamin B12 48%
Folacin 20%
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Potassium 249.0 mg
Dietary Fiber 0.9g
Percent US RDA Per Serving
Protein 5%
Vitamin A 0%
Vitamin C 14%
Prepare and set aside all
Thiamine 4%
ingredients. In a large skillet or
Riboflavin 4%
wok, heat oil. Add garlic, onion and
Niacin 10%
celery, and cook 1 minute, stirring
Calcium 2%
continually. Add mushrooms and
Iron 12%
Beansprouts and continue cooking 1
Vitamin B6 6%
minute more. Season with ginger,
Vitamin B12 18%
oyster sauce and soy sauce. Heat
Folacin 5%
thoroughly and serve over rice or
pasta.
Serves 2
Sunshine Pocket
Preparation:
1 head of cauliflower, steamed until
soft
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 lemon, juiced
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt or
powdered kelp
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/3 cup mayonnaise or substitute*
4 ounces ALFALFA SPROUTS
3 carrots, grated
2 tomatoes, sliced
2 large whole wheat pita breads
* See Eggless Egg Salad recipe
below for mayonnaise substitute
Mash cauliflower in a bowl, add
listed ingredients through
mayonnaise and mix. Chill well.
Spread mix in pita bread and add
Alfalfa Sprouts, carrots and
tomatoes.
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Serves 4
Mayonnaise
Serves 4
The Mayonnaise
1/4 pound SOFT TOFU
2 teaspoons Chinese sesame oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup refined peanut or vegetable
oil
Whip the first 5 ingredients in a
blender or food processor. Keep the
machine going, and gradually
drizzle in the oil. When all oil is in
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Calcium 1%
Iron 1%
Vitamin B6 0%
Vitamin B12 0%
Folacin 0%
Sprouts Tabouleh
Preparation:
1 cup bulgur wheat *
1-1/2 cups boiling water
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup fresh lemon and/or lime
juice
1/4 cup fresh olive oil
3 scallions, including greens,
chopped
1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped
OR 1/2 teaspoon dried (2 ml)
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped
4 ounces mixed munchy sprouts
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Preparation
Dressing:
1-1/2 cups sour cream (375 ml)
1-1/2 cups mayonnaise 375 ml
Oriental Salad
Preparation:
3/4 cup mayonnaise (175 ml)
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Rice Salad
Preparation:
2 cups brown rice, cooked in 3
cups of water until tender
1/3 cup of olive oil
1/2 cup of orange juice
1/2 teaspoon crushed red
pepper
2 tablespoons of tamari
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 cup chopped pineapple (or
canned crushed, undrained)
10 peapods, chopped
3 scallions, minced
1 stalk celery, chopped
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup peanuts, chopped
12 ounces BEANSPROUTS
While rice is cooking combine
all other ingredients. Add to rice,
mix well and chill. Pack a cup
and a half or two cups of this
salad and take it to work with a
piece of fruit for a refreshing
lunch. Serve it on a bed of
alfalfa sprouts or alfalfa with
garlic sprouts for an attractive
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Niacin 2%
Calcium 3%
Iron 13%
Vitamin B6 6%
Vitamin B12 86%
Folacin 29%
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g)
12 black olives, sliced
Niacin 8%
Calcium 91%
Iron 30%
Vitamin B6 16%
Vitamin B12 89%
Folacin 32%
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Folacin 26%
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sprouts emerge from the seed coat during the first day of sprouting. Growth is rapid and
the sprouts reach the desired size in about 5 days. Sprouts 3 inches long with a
diameter of 1/8 inch are considered best.
USING SPROUTS
Bean sprouts are used both raw and cooked. They are used in stews and soups, take the
place of onions or mushrooms in fried or roasted dishes, or are eaten raw as a salad.
Most commercially produced bean sprouts are canned.
The most palatable sprouts are those eaten fresh. The vitamin C content of mung bean
sprouts ranges up to 0.346 mg per gram of fresh sprouts. Maximum vitamin C is
reached during the second day of germination. However, at this stage the sprouts are
quite small.
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At retail, make sure that the sprouts you are purchasing are
refrigerated or surrounded by ice.
Only purchase sprouts that are crisp-looking, while avoiding dark or
musty-smelling sprouts.
When purchasing bean sprouts in bulk display, use tongs or gloves to
place the sprouts into a plastic bag.
Upon returning home from the retail store, if not consumed
immediately, refrigerate the sprouts. The refrigerator should be set to
reach 4C or less as measured by use of a thermometer.
Before and after handling sprouts, always wash your hands
thoroughly (i.e., ~20 seconds with hot water and soap).
Rinse the sprouts with cold running water prior to consumption.
Do not eat sprouts that are past their best before date or have lost
their crispness.
Only eat mung bean sprouts that have been thoroughly cooked.
For more information on food safety, visit the Canadian Food Inspection
Agencys Web site at: www.inspection.gc.ca
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El trigo germinado
Propiedades del trigo germinado
El trigo germinado es muy recomendable en casos de desmineralizacin, personas mal
nutridas, fatiga, anemia, crecimiento, embarazo, lactancia o convalecencia de cualquier
enfermedad.
La verdad es que suele ir muy bien en muchas enfermedades ya que en la mayora de los
casos suele haber alguna carencia nutricional.
Las personas que lo toman durante tiempo suelen sentirse mucho mejor.
La germinacin del trigo favorece la predigestin de las lectinas, que son unos nutrientes del
trigo responsables de ciertos tipos de alergias al trigo que sufren algunas personas.
El Fsforo pasa de 420 mg, por cada 100 gramos en grano, a 1050 mg una vez
germinado.
Sabas que?
Su sabor, ligeramente dulzn, es muy agradable.
Hemos de recordar que aunque en su germinacin suele desaparecer el gluten es
conveniente que no lo tomen los celacos ya que siempre pueden quedar restos.
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Un germinado en tu plato.
Los alimentos germinados, digestivos y ricos en vitaminas; una
alternativa a cereales y legumbres cocinados.
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Deportistas: adems de ser ideal para reponer la gran cantidad de minerales que han
perdido por el sudor, la cebada por su poder alcalinizante, contrarresta los efectos de la
acidosis producidos en los perodos de mximo esfuerzo muscular, impidiendo la aparicin de
agujetas.
En procesos reumticos (artrosis, artritis, gota, etc) en donde existe una gran
tendencia a la acidosis del organismo, la cebada tiene un gran campo de accin tanto por su
poder alcalinizante como por su contenido en vitaminas y minerales.
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Es rica en vitamina C, biotina, tiamina (vit. B1), colina, riboflavina (vit. B2), cido
flico, piridoxina (vit. B6), carotenos (provitamina A), cido nicotnico, cido pantotnico.
Es rica en minerales, entre los que destacan: cobre, fsforo, zinc, calcio, magnesio,
sodio, hierro, manganeso y potasio.
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Germinados y fermentos
de semillas
La clorofila
La clorofila es muy similar a la hemoglobina de la sangre con la
diferencia de que tiene un In de magnesio mientras que el de la
sangre es de hierro. La clorofila lleva oxgeno a las clulas y es un
buen destoxificador y regenerador.
Contraindicaciones
En el embarazo, en pocas de lactancia o en personas con rechazo a
alguno de los componentes de la clorofila.
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Efectos secundarios
Su consumo puede alterar el color de la orina y las heces. La clorofila
puede resultar tan desintoxicante que para algunas personas
solamente con olerla les produce arcadas. Esto denota el grado de
intoxicacin que es proporcional al rechazo que provoca. Es
conveniente empezar a tomarla diluida en agua o jugos de fruta o
zanahoria y aumentar la concentracin gradualmente.
Las semillas que se utilizan para obtener la clorofila son el trigo y la
cebada, que se cultivan en una capa de tierra, para obtener la hierba
de la que se extrae la clorofila. La alfalfa es tambin adecuada
aunque en menos cantidad pero con la ventaja de que se germina y
verdea en un simple tarro. Se come entera y puede acompaar en la
mesa en muchos platos y ensaladas.
El concepto de verde o jugo de planta fresca
http://www.enbuenasmanos.com/ARTICULOS/muestra.asp?art=867
Obtencin de la clorofila
Hierba de trigo y cebada:
Para obtener clorofila se ponen a remojo semillas de trigo o cebada
durante 12 horas y se esparcen sobre una capa de tierra hmeda de
1 o 2 cm. alojada en una caja baja de madera o cartn (Unos 6 cm.
de altura) o en semillero. Las semillas se disponen cubriendo toda la
superficie sin amontonarse y se cubren con un pao fino o una hoja
de papel absorbente "como las hojas del diario de noticias sin
impresin a color". Sobre la caja se coloca un cristal para mantener
la humedad, dejando una buena abertura para el aire. Hay que
mantener el pao o papel humedecido hasta que la fuerza de la
hierba lo levante. Momento adecuado para quitarlo y exponer la
germinacin a la luz indirecta del sol. Cuando la hierva alcance el
cristal este se quita y la germinacin se puede poner directamente al
sol cuidando de que la tierra no se quede seca.
La hierba se corta cuando alcanza de 10 a 20 cm. de altura y puede
volver a recortarse unas cuantas veces, aunque cada vez ser mas
amarga.
Extraer la clorofila de la hierba puede resultar difcil sin disponer de
un extractor manual de acero adecuado. Las licuadoras no cogen la
hierba al ser tan delgada. As que una manera es masticar una buena
cantidad para que la clorofila pase con la salivacin. Aunque el
mtodo no es muy efectivo para la rpida extraccin, sin embargo es
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Germinadores y semillas
GERMINADOS
Hoy en da debido a la forma de vida moderna, a la mala calidad de los
alimentos que consumimos, etc., es difcil obtener a travs de la alimentacin
todos los nutrientes que nos son necesarios. Estas carencias se pueden evitar
si aadimos a nuestra dieta habitual el consumo de germinados.
Los germinados son las plantas ''beb'', y poseen adems de una excepcional
vitalidad la ms alta concentracin de protenas, oligoelementos, vitaminas,
minerales, enzimas, bioflavonoides y clulas T a lo largo de la vida de la
planta. La elevada concentracin enzimtica que poseen produce una
regeneracin del torrente sanguneo y de los procesos digestivos
En Cocina Vital ponemos a tu disposicin una variedad de germinadores para
que puedas seleccionar el que mejor se adapte a tus necesidades, todos ellos
de los mejores fabricantes y con el mejor diseo, tanto manuales como
automticos.
Para germinar hemos seleccionado las semillas de GEO, de la casa Bavichi.
Esta casa lleva facilitando semillas desde 1896, y las que comercializa bajo la
marca GEO son semillas de agricultura biolgica especiales para germinar. La
casa asegura un 90% de germinacin en estas semillas.
Cada uno de los sobres de semillas contiene informacin en castellano de
cmo germinar e informacin sobre sus caractersticas alimenticias.
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03.
GERMINADOR
MANUAL EASY
HEALTH
49.50EUR
01.2
DESHIDRATADOR
02.1
01.1
EXCALIBUR 5 DESHIDRATADOR
DESHIDRATADOR
BANDEJAS
EXCALIBUR 9
EXCALIBUR 5
blanco
BANDEJAS negro
BANDEJAS negro
399.00EUR
499.00EUR
399.00EUR
Deshidratadores
Extractor de zumo
- 48 -
Informacin / Artculos
Vegetarianismo
Qu pasa durante la germinacin?
Cuando las semillas se germinan su contenido nutricional cambia, se mejora y aumenta. En
cuanto la semilla entra en contacto con el agua, el oxgeno y el calor necesarios, empieza a
desarrollarse y tienen lugar entre otros los fenmenos siguientes:
1. Mediante la absorcin de agua la semilla duplica su volumen y revienta la cscara
protectora.
2. Las enzirnas se activan y provocan una serie de transformaciones:
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Tiempo de germinacin
Contenido en vitamina C
De 7 a 88 Mg. /100 g
De 10 a 12 Mg. /100 g
De 12 a 14 Mg. / 100 g
Al cabo de 2 das
Al cabo de 4 das
Mungo
0.61
0.81
1.35
Lentejas
0.43
0.42
2.37
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Ideal para personas con tendencia a las hemorragias o con fragilidad capilar por su
riqueza en vitamina K y en Rutina.
Favorece las digestiones debido a las enzimas digestivas que posee ya que evita el
desarrollo de bacterias putrefactas.
Efecto rejuvenedor debido a las enzimas SOD y catalasas que disminuyen los
radicales libres.
Informacin nutricional
50 % de hidratos de carbono.
3 % de grasas poliinsaturadas.
25 % de fibra.
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Muchos minerales, como el potasio, magnesio, calcio, hierro, azufre, cobalto y otros
ms.
Sabas que?
La fibra de al alfalfa es un poco irritante si se toma en exceso, as que es mejor no pasar de
50 gr. al da o si hemos de tomar mucha, mejor licuarla.
Sabas que....?
Encontramos la descripcin de las sencillas tcnicas de germinacin en
las Escrituras de los Esenios, que vivan en Israel y Egipto en tiempos de
Cristo, y en tiempos no tan lejanos, tanto Vasco de Gama como
Magallanes pudieron realizar sus largas travesas gracias a los
germinados, que protegan a su tripulacin del escorbuto.
The Chinese have been growing mung bean sprouts (nga choy or nga choi) for
approximately 3,000 years. However, the popularity of bean sprouts in the west is a
more recent phenomenon. Many of us first got turned on to sprouts during the health
conscious seventies, when we began piling them onto green salads or in tofu burgers.
And why not? Not only are bean sprouts high in protein, vitamin C and Folacin, but
they are a dieter's dream. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, one cup of
bean sprouts contains a mere twenty-six calories. They are low in salicylate, a naturally
occurring chemical in plants that some individuals have difficulty tolerating. (Aspirin is
acetyl salicylic acid). In Chinese medicine bean sprouts are considered to be a yin or
cooling food.
Both the texture and taste of mung bean sprouts - crunchy with a delicate hint of
sweetness - enhances a number of popular Chinese dishes, from Egg Rolls to stir-fries
and salads. In The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson notes that stir-frying
bean sprouts releases a protein that isn't available when they are eaten raw. However, to
maintain their crisp texture, they shouldn't be stir-fried longer for longer than about
thirty seconds.
Today China and India are the main producers of mung beans, not surprising given their
popularity in both of these Asian countries. When it comes to importing, the United
States is one of the leading customers. This is good news for consumers since it means
that mung bean sprouts are easily obtainable at western supermarkets. When
purchasing mung bean sprouts, look for plumper ones that are not stringy or
discoloured. If not using them immediately, place in a plastic bag with a few drops of
water, seal and keep in the refrigerator. Stored in this manner, they will last for one or
two days. If you need to keep them longer, you can try covering them with cold water
and storing in a sealed jar in the refrigerator. If the water is changed every two days,
they should last for up to a week. However, since they are so easy to find, I prefer to
- 52 -
wait and purchase them just before using. Also, mung bean sprouts can be frozen if
they are to be used in cooking.
- 53 -
ALFALFA:
Sabrosa y crujiente, la alfalfa germinada es una de las germinaciones ms ricas y completas.
Posee una gran cantidad de vitaminas y minerales. Contiene los aminocidos ms importantes, y
una relacin fsforo / calcio excelente. Los granos de alfalfa son campeones de productividad.
SOJA VERDE:
El germinado de soja es muy rico en protenas y vitaminas y tiene un sabor refrescante. Su
contenido de carbohidratos es el mismo que el del meln. contiene tanta vitamina A como el
meln, tanta tiamina como el aguacate, tanta riboflavina como la manzana desecada, tanta
niacina como el pltano, tanta vitamina C como la pia y menos caloras que la papaya.
TRIGO:
Es el abanderado de los germinados. Tiene un sabor dulce y agradable, y es muy saludable. A
partir de germinados de trigo se pueden realizar numerosas preparaciones culinarias. Es preferible
utilizar variedadesantiguas de trigo como espelta o kamut. pues las variedades modernas han
sufrido numerosas hibridaciones que leshan hecho perder parte de su potencial energtico.
FENOGRECO:
Este grano, muy utilizado en Oriente Medio, tiene un sabor fuerte que permite realizar toda clase
de platos. Los germinados de fenogreco benefician al hgado, y ejercen un efecto estimulante de
todas las funciones digestivas. Tambin tienen fama por sus virtudes afrodisacas.
Y adems, poseen una curiosa particularidad otorgan un agradable olor al sudor de las personas
que lo consumen.
En los tiempos antiguos las bellas orientales, en lugar de perfumarse exteriormente, coman
germinados de fenogreco para oler bien.
GIRASOL:
Las semillas de girasol germinadas son muy ricas en protenas y grasas Insaturadas. Es un
alimento perfecto para el ser humano. Diversos estudios han demostrado que una alimentacin
constituid. casi exclusivamente de germinados de girasol durante semanas, permita alcanzar unos
niveles fsicos y mentales extraordinarios y sin sufrir carencias.
AZUKI:
Esta pequea juda roja procedente de Extremo Oriente, tiene un sabor muy caracterstico , pero
no muy fuerte. Hay que tener precaucin con los granos que no han llegado a germinar pues son
muy duros.
LENTEJAS:
De sabor agradable, son muy ricas en protenas y hierro y tienen grandes propiedades
energticas y nutritivas.
- 54 -
GARBANZO:
Con los germinados de garbanzos se pueden realizar deliciosos pats vegetales. Adems, al
contrario de lo que ocurre cuando cocinamos el grano seco, los germinados de garbanzos no
producen gases durante la digestin.
CEBOLLA:
Los germinados de cebolla tienen el mismo sabor que la cebolla tierna....pero mucho ms tierna!
Resulta chocante su aspecto, pues an despus de germinar, las semillas presentan el mismo color
negro que tenan antes de la germinacin. Sus tallos son largos y verdes, y resultan muy
adecuados para aadir a las ensaladas o condimentar cualquier plato.
ARROZ:
Germina con facilidad, aunque el principal problema reside en encontrar arroz que haya sido
secado a temperatura ambiente. La mayora de arroces del mercado, incluso los biolgicos, han
sido secados con calor y han perdido su potencial germinativo.
HINOJO:
Una forma nueva y original de consumir el hinojo. De esta planta no slo se consumen los
deliciosos bulbos, sino que tambin produce unos fantsticos germinados con su caracterstico
sabor anisado.
MOSTAZA:
Es el germinado ms picante. Ideal para condimentar platos de una forma sana y natural pues su
sabor resulta ms autntico que la mostaza comercializada en forma de salsa.
QUINOA:
Es un cereal procedente de Sudamrica, y el alimento preferido de los incas. Los germinados de
quinoa proporcionan una extraordinaria vitalidad, y se pueden consumir solos o mezclados con
ensaladas u otros platos.
TRBOL:
La simptica planta de la suerte produce unos germinados largos y finos, parecidos a los de la
alfalfa aunque con un sabor ms consistente, y que adquieren clorofila con facilidad.
RBANOS:
Para los amantes de los sabores fuertes. Los germinados de rabanitos conservan el sabor
caracterstico de la planta adulta, pero con mayor intensidad. Resultan muy apropiados para
mezclar con otros germinados ms suaves.
ESCAROLA:
Para los adictos a las ensaladas, nada mejor que un plato de germinados de escarola. La
"tiernicidad" de unas hojas verdes elevada a la ensima potencia.
AMAPOLA:
Las semillas de amapola producen unos germinados algodonosos y de color ocre. Poseen un sabor
muy particular y agradable.
Es como llevarse un plato de flores silvestres a la mesa.
- 55 -
En la rigidez muscular sobre todo de hombros y espalda. Esto es debido a una acmulo
de cido lctico, sobre todo gracias al estrs. El efecto alcalinizante y remineralizante de
la cebada es fundamental en estos casos.
- 56 -
Deportistas: adems de ser ideal para reponer la gran cantidad de minerales que han
perdido por el sudor, la cebada por su poder alcalinizante, contrarresta los efectos de la
acidosis producidos en los perodos de mximo esfuerzo muscular, impidiendo la aparicin
de agujetas.
En procesos reumticos (artrosis, artritis, gota, etc.) en donde existe una gran
tendencia a la acidosis del organismo, la cebada tiene un gran campo de accin tanto por
su poder alcalinizante como por su contenido en vitaminas y minerales.
Es bastante corriente, la creencia de que la mayor fuente de protenas procede del reino
animal, es decir, carnes, pescados, lcteos y huevos entre otros. Pero tal creencia es
falsa, de hecho gran nmero de plantas tienen un rico contenido proteico; destacan las
hojas de cebada verde con aproximadamente un 45%.
Contiene cidos grasos esenciales, tales como el linoleico, linolnico, zoomrico, cprico,
oleico, ercido, larico, esterico, palmtico, mirstico, araqurico, etc.
Es rica en vitamina C, biotina, tiamina (vit. B1), colina, riboflavina (vit. B2), cido
flico, piridoxina (vit. B6), carotenos (provitamina A), cido nicotnico, cido
pantotnico.
Es rica en minerales, entre los que destacan: cobre, fsforo, zinc, calcio, magnesio,
sodio, hierro, manganeso y potasio.
La cebada ayuda a conseguir el equilibrio qumico del cuerpo sin tener que provocar drsticos
cambios en la alimentacin de las personas, mientras se les va enseando la manera ms
conveniente y adecuada de alimentarse segn las necesidades de cada uno.
Datos del Autor:
- 57 -
Una dieta sana y equilibrada es fundamental para disfrutar de buena salud y para mantener el
cuerpo joven y activo. Pero en la sociedad actual la pobreza nutricional de la alimentacin, se
camufla muchas veces en la tendencia a concentrar vitaminas y minerales en pldoras con el
intento de dotar al organismo de las deficiencias que le ocasiona la dieta. Pero est cientficamente
demostrado que las vitaminas y los minerales naturalmente presentes en los alimentos son
absorbidos, metabolizados y asimilados en las clulas de manera ms eficiente y rpida que las
vitaminas y minerales aislados o sintetizados, ya que se encuentran integrados y unidos a otros
componentes de la naturaleza reconocibles por el organismo que actan de transportadores
naturales al interior de las clulas.
IMPORTANCIA DE LA CLOROFILA
La clorofila utilizada en uso oral demostr su capacidad de eliminacin del olor corporal y mal
aliento. Cuando la clorofila se toma en forma de dieta vegetariana no es totalmente liberada de
dentro de las paredes celulares del tejido de la planta y consecuentemente no es absorbida.
El dao y la alteracin del ADN por genotxicos medioambientales es una de las principales causas
de cncer y desrdenes genticos. Se ha descubierto la accin protectora de la clorofila frente a
ciertos genotxicos como el diesel, el humo del tabaco y el polvo del alquitrn. El modo de accin
de la clorofila se debe a que retira de manera muy eficiente estos componentes genotxicos o se
acopla con ellos desactivndolos.
Adems de la clorofila, en los jugos verdes de las plantas podemos encontrar cantidades
importantes de carotenos, de los que existen diferentes estudios que los relacionan con la
disminucin de riesgo a padecer cnceres epiteliales y otros tipos de cncer, en especial por su
riqueza en b-caroteno, xantofila y lutena.
- 58 -
Garantizan una proteccin contra los radicales libres por la presencia de sustancias naturales con
importante accin antioxidante, imposibles de encontrar en los alimentos excesivamente
elaborados que ingerimos.
Nos ayudan a mantenernos limpios por dentro, favoreciendo la desintoxicacin del aparato
digestivo y la purificacin de la sangre. Los alimentos verdes vienen siendo tradicionalmente
utilizados para purificar el cuerpo y eliminar metales pesado y toxinas.
- 59 -
- 60 -
Special
To Order: Click on Link at Bottom
Beginner's Dozen
$59.99
Get one pound each of alfalfa, clover, radish, cabbage, barley grass, buckwheat, mung,
lentil, peas, garbanzo, and 4 ounces each of garlic and broccoli seeds. A
$70.00 value. Save over $10.00!
Buckwheat
Kamut
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$ 2.99
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- 61 -
Garbanzo
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$ 3.29
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Fenugreek
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lack Sunflower
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- 62 -
Broccoli Blend
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Sproutman Publications
Steve Meyerowitz, Sproutman
P.O. Box 1100, Great Barrington, Mass. 01230
- 63 -
NK Califa
NK Jalisco MR
NK Sanbro
NK Sanbro
MR
NK Sanay MR
NK Astri
Oleic
Radish
- 64 -
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 2 Cups (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 3 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Note: Brassicas tend to float. Try to sink those that do by knocking them down with
your fingers. Most of those floating seeds will sink during the hours they are soaking,
but it is a good habit to pay attention to your seed's needs, and this is the perfect place
to start!
Allow seeds to Soak for 6-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter (if necessary).
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water.
Drain thoroughly.
Set your Sprouter anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is
optimal) between Rinses.
This is where your sprouts do their growing. We use a counter top in our kitchen - right
in the middle of the room but where the sprouter won't get knocked over by kids, dogs,
cats or us. Our kitchen gets no direct sun but we don't mind the diffuse sunlight or the
150 watts of incandescent light. Light just does not matter much. A plant can only
perform photosynthesis when it has leaves. Until then light has little if any effect, so
don't hide your sprouts!
Rinse and Drain again every 8-12 hours for 3 days.
As long as you grow you have to keep the sprouts happy!
Note: These wonderful little Brassica plants have a unique root structure. Brassicas
will show microscopic roots starting around day 3. They are called root hairs and are
most visible just before Rinsing when the sprouts are at their driest. When you Rinse the
root hairs will collapse back against the main root. Many folks thing these root hairs
are mold - but they are not. Now you know!
Greening
On the 4th day relocate your sprouts if necessary.
If you've been keeping them away from light, move them. Avoid direct sun - it can cook
your sprouts. Indirect sunlight is best but virtually any light will do. Experiment - you
will be amazed at how little light sprouts require to green up.
Continue to Rinse and Drain every 8-12 hours.
As long as you grow you have to keep the sprouts happy.
Finishing
Your sprouts will be done during day 5 or 6.
- 65 -
The majority of sprouts will have open leaves which will be green if you exposed them
to light.
De-Hull
Before your final Rinse remove the seed hulls.
Brassica sprout hulls are quite large (relative to the seed and sprout) and they hold a lot
of water (which can dramatically lessen the shelf life of your sprouts), so we remove
them:
Transfer the sprouts to a big (at least 3-4 times the volume of your sprouter) pot or
bowl, fill with cool water, loosen the sprout mass and agitate with your hand. Skim the
hulls off the surface. Return the sprouts to your sprouter for their Rinse and Drain.
That's the short course - here is the full lesson.
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. After the De-Hulling and the
final Rinse we need to Drain very thoroughly and let our sprouts dry a bit. If we
minimize the surface moisture of our sprouts they store much better in refrigeration, so
we let them sit for 8-12 hours....
OR
We can use a salad spinner to dry the sprouts after their final Rinse and skip the final 812 hour wait, instead going directly to Refrigeration.
Refrigerate
Transfer the sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice.
Notes:
When conditions are warm your sprouts will likely grow faster. If their leaves open
sooner you should green and de-hull and harvest sooner. Likewise they may grow
slower if conditions are very cool. These are just tiny plants they are not difficult to
understand. The more you sprout the better you'll know them and be able to adjust to
their needs. As always 70 is optimal and 70 is what our instructions are written for.
All sprouts generate heat while growing, which is a good thing, but it can get out of
hand on occasion. When the weather is especially hot and humid you will do well to
Rinse more frequently (every 8 hours if possible) using colder water than usual (the
coldest your tap can offer is fine), to compensate.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light
and so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be
equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more
delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think
they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So
don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
It is ESSENTIAL that you keep Brassica sprouts from clumping together and you CAN
NOT grow them vertically using a tray sprouter. Brassica sprouts will mat together
- 66 -
forming a dense bluish root mass which not only is unattractive but shortens the shelf
life of the finished sprouts. So mix em up! We use high water pressure when Rinsing to
keep our brassica sprouts loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't
enough, break the clump of sprouts up using a fork or your fingers (wash your hands
first please, if they need it). If you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly
full then use a fork to loosen. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something
and just shake them apart. You should never be afraid** of touching your sprouts. They
are much stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
** The only thing to fear is fear itself.
* If using Single Harvest Pack - use the whole bag.
These seeds yield approximately 5:1, so in theory you can start with as much as 1/5 as
much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise less so that you have
some room to move).
Wheat Grass
- 67 -
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, E and K
Calcium, Chlorophyll, Iron, Lecithin, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus, Potassium
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: up to 30%
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields approximately as much grass (by weight) as grain planted
Planting Medium: We have grown Grass - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Grass! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than $5 (for a 40 pound
bag!) at any garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process.
When growing Grass: You really MUST Pre-Sprout it before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
- 68 -
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we
grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use
a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever
makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked. Spread the wet pad
across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the surface
then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water (You
don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just
pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is
this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a
little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip
Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of grain and though some literature
will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from
- 69 -
years of experience and thousands of Trays of Grass grown that that is bunk! You will
learn for yourself that Grass produces a plant that takes up less room than the grain
did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree.
The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Grass then lessen
the amount of grain you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an
issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and
seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grass will grow very well in cooler temperatures also.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying the
sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet sprayer just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent grass will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water from the side
if possible, to prevent injuring the tender blades.
The Soilless alternative.
Baby Blanket will dry out more quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should
either water more often or experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just
leave as much water as the grass can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so
you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip
Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip
Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next
time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make it sound - it is
really a time saver and produces happier healthy grass.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, but the same method works for it: Use the
Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will eventually grow into this, so don't go crazy
- too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just leave as
- 70 -
much water as the grass and Vermiculite can drink in a day and then add more the
following day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're
growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2
cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12
hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then
cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make
it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happier healthy grass. Use Kelpman
too. We probably give more water than is necessary, but we end up with great crops and
the grass keeps growing even after we cut it - even if we don't add water daily.
Vermiculite is great stuff!
Uncover your Grass
Wait 3-4 days until it is 1-2 inches tall or until it pushes the covering tray up (it really
will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Grass
(If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea for grass) be prepared to do more
watering). Keep it moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch it grow. It takes
about 10 days to get to....
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil/medium when the Grass is 6 or more inches tall (actually
height is just a matter of yield - you can cut it any time you want to).
Note: We believe that you will get the best flavor and nutrition from freshly cut Grass.
We cut JUST prior to juicing and we feel the difference! But, you are better off juicing
week old Grass than no Grass at all, so do what you must! Drink More Juice!
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grass can produce a 2nd and even 3rd crop so you may continue to water the
Tray after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and more so the 3rd crop is not as tender nor
usually as big, but it is good to try growing at least a 2nd crop. Decide for yourself if it
is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium if you want to go for multiple cuttings!
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Cups Dry Grain for a 4-5 inch square Tray.
1-2 Cups dry grain for an 11 inch square Tray.
2-4 Cups dry grain for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
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The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual blades of grass. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies.
This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. If you are consuming this as juice just rinse it off when you harvest the grass. If you hate it - increase air flow by planting
less seed. Additionally, you may move your grass to a better ventilated area. In summer
we grow our grass outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air
circulation.
Description
The classic power drink's source plant. Easy to grow and seriously rejuvinating when
ingested. If everyone drank this stuff the average life expectancy would jump 10 years,
this is greeeaat stuff! Wheat Grass Juice is has a very intense flavor. We've been
drinking it since the 1970s and have found that we enjoy it more now than ever - since
we got a Green Life (now improved by the mfg. and called Green Star) juicer we mix
our grass juice with carrot and apple juice - it is delicious!
You need a special juicer to extract the nectar from this grass - it is well worth the
effort! Look on our Juicer page for more info
Mung Bean
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Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
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(1 - 3 inch roots):
Rinse and Drain every 8-12 hours.
for 4 - 5 days.
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious!
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usual and can gain substantial mass during this period. There is a slight danger in this that the sprouts will generate too much heat and will start to slow-cook, but it is a very
rare problem.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 (or 24) hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain
them as thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Description
The most consumed sprout on Earth, Mungs are grown and used extensively in Asian
cuisine. Perhaps the most exciting sprout to grow as it offers unique challenges - if you
grow them big.
Mungs are probably the best cooking sprout - especially if you like Chinese food. Some
of our greatest recipes require Mung Bean Sprouts.
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Arugula
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately as many micro-greens (by weight) as seed "planted"
The Basics
Thoroughly moisten that upon which you are going to grow.
If using a Hemp Bag or a small bit of Baby Blanket or similar medium - lay it on a
plate or in a pan or something so that you don't end up watering your counter. Likewise,
if using a Tray, put it on a plate or in a solid (Drip) tray to capture water runoff.
Spread seeds sparsely on your thoroughly moistened medium/sprouter.
(there should be a bit of space around each seed but you are not expected to place them
one at a time - just spread them out as much as you can and as evenly as you can*)
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Try this and learn: Plant 1 seed in a tiny pot - something as small as one inch square
(bigger is OK too). Use soil for this and bury the seed 1/8 inch deep. Thoroughly
moisten the soil before planting and keep the soil moist as it grows and keep it in the
light once it emerges from the soil. You can grow this seed into a plant that has several
leaves (it will take 3-4 weeks). This is a great way to learn more about plants in general
and this seed in particular. You can eat the plant it tastes great! Now you know more
about the potential of seeds. Awesome isn't it?!
Curly Cress
The perfect Micro-Green, Cress is seriously flavorful most would say seriously spicy - easy to grow and has really beautiful leaves too!
Seed to Green in 5 - 6 Days
Yield = 1:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 4 - 5 years
Greens Shelf Life = 1 - 2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium
All Essential Amino Acids
Protein: 20-25%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately as many micro-greens (by weight) as seed "planted"
The Basics
Thoroughly moisten that upon which you are going to grow.
If using a Hemp Bag or a small bit of Baby Blanket or similar medium - lay it on a
plate or in a pan or something so that you don't end up watering your counter. Likewise,
if using a Tray, put it on a plate or in a solid (Drip) tray to capture water runoff.
Spread seeds sparsely on your thoroughly moistened medium/sprouter.
(there should be a bit of space around each seed but you are not expected to place them
one at a time - just spread them out as much as you can and as evenly as you can*)
You may cover your seeds:
If planting on soil in a Tray use another tray - up side down.
If using a Miniature Garden you can slide the tray into the central unit for the first 2-3
days.
If using a Hemp Bag or similar medium - be creative.
It is not mandatory when growing mucilaginous Micro-Greens to cover them at all.
Experiment for yourself and see what works best in your climate/location.
Place your Micro-Garden in a low-light, room temperature location (70 is
optimal).
Keep the medium/sprouter moist - but not soggy - by watering or misting every
day or two.
When your plants grow up and begin to shed their hulls they are ready for light so
move them (if necessary) to a well lighted location.
If you go with sunlight be prepared to water more frequently. Room light will usually do
quite nicely as well and will not dry out your medium as quickly.
Keep the medium/sprouter moist but not soggy by watering regularly.
Water from the side if possible to prevent injuring the tiny plants.
When your plants have open leaves and are green, they are done.
Harvest by cutting just above the medium upon which they have grown.
During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface moisture of your plants - they will
store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch. So if you water try to keep the
water off the plants - just water the medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating them all
first.
Note: If using Single Harvest Pack and a Miniature Garden use the whole bag on 1 tray.
Or Use:
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Description
aka Pepper Grass, this spicy mucilaginous Brassica (the same family as Broccoli,
Cabbage, Mustard and Radish...) is, in flavor, something like Watercress and is a very
fast grower which doesn't need (and should not encounter) soaking. Just sprinkle some
seeds on moist soil or a thoroughly moistened Hemp Bag or a Miniature Garden or
Baby Blanket, a great soilless planting medium, and watch your crop grow - in just 5
days - into one of the most intensely flavorful greens you've ever experienced!
A major ingredient in our leafy blends; French Garden, Italian Blend and Nick's Hot
Sprout Salad, Cress was not available as an organic crop back in 1994. Working for
years with our dear farmer friends Mark + Ila we have established it as a standard
certified organic crop.
Cress along with Arugula (which has exactly the same organic history), Onion and
Garlic Chive are without a doubt the most essential flavor additions to any sprout
kitchen!
FYI - when mucilaginous seeds are mixed with non-mucilaginous seeds in the proper
proportions (our secret) they can be sprouted using traditional sprouting methods (like
in French Garden, Italian Blend and Nick's Hot Sprout Salad)
Note: US and Canadian researchers have found that many brassicas contain antioxidants
including Cress.
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Search
Help Center
This section of our site should have answers or links to
answers
that will solve many a sprout question!
If you have a question that isn't answered here and you can't find it by searching
or please visit our online Help Group.
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- 82 -
- 83 -
Leafy Sprouts
Alfalfa, Clover &
Sproutpeople's
Famous Gourmet
Blends!
Bean Sprouts
Mung, Lentils, Peas
and many more!
Brassica
Sprouts
Broccoli, Cabbage,
Radish & lots more.
Grains
Wheat, Barley, Rye
and much more!
Nuts/Seeds
Almond, Peanut,
Pumpkin,
Sunflower..
Alliums
Garlic & Onion
Exotic &
Bizarre
Fenugreek and Our
Strangest Mixes.
Grass
Wheat, Cat, Barley
and more.
Greens
Sunflower,
Buckwheat, Pea, etc.
Micro-Greens
Arugula, Cress, Flax
and many more.
Birds &
Sprouts
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Sprout Kits
Seeds, Sprouters &
more for Newbies
and Experienced
Sproutpeople.
Sprouting Seed
Some ofSamplers
the definitions on this list are right out of the dictionary while others are
Sample our VAST
selection of Seeds to
find those you like
best!
our own.
Glossary
Sprouting
Devices
A reference
that defines words used - in this case by These Sproutpeople.
The Widest Selection
of Sprouters on this
Planet!
Air Circulation
Sprouts,
JuicersGreens and Grass need to breathe while they grow. Don't put them in a closed
cabinet or Learn
closet!about
As we've
the said so many times in these pages: Light just isn't anything to
worry about,
so leaveofyour
sprouts in an open place where they can breathe. If it is very hot
Extractors
Nectar.
and humid you should consider moving your air around with a fan - or moving your sprouts
& air
Ends
to a place Odds
where the
moves. If you are growing Grass or Greens you should consider
Planting
Mediums,
moving them outside (when temperatures are over 60), there is no better place for air
circulation.Fertilizer & More....
Allium
The GenusSprout
of plants Book
from the
&family Amaryllidaceae, whose members include Garlic, Leek
and Onion. See Chart
Music Shop
Antioxidant
1.
A chemical
compound
Sprout
Recipes
& or substance that inhibits oxidation. 2. A substance, such as vitamin
E, vitamin C, or beta carotene, thought to protect body cells from the damaging effects of
oxidation. Cookery
3. A Cancer preventative compound.
Customer
Opinions
Bacteria
What our customers
think of us.
Any of the unicellular prokaryotic microorganisms of the class Schizomycetes, which vary in
terms of morphology, oxygen and nutritional requirements, and motility, and may be freeliving, saprophytic, or pathogenic in plants or animals. We mammals are dependant on
bacteria.
The vast majority are beneficial, and sprouts as well as other living, raw foods are
Sprouting
the best source of these. But we do take care to keep our growing environment sterile so as
Specifics
to
prevent pathogenic bacteria like salmonella. Read about food and sprout safety.
The ABCs of Sprouting
Withhold light from your plants to keep them from turning green. Blanching is common in
Europe but little known in the US. The usually yellow plants which result from Blanching are
How-To Grow
Sprouting: The
Basics
Start Here
Seed Prep
Soaking
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Draining
Greening
Planting
When Are
Sprouts Done?
Hull Removal
usually more tender than their green version, but they lack chlorophyll.
Storing your
Sprouts
Sprouting
BleachDevice Care
Sprouting on
The most common and easily available chemical for sterilizing sprouting devices. Household
the Road
bleach is already
diluted but you need to dilute it further to avoid burning your skin. We
recommend 1 Tablespoon per pint of water for sterilizing. Let sprouter soak for 10 or more
minutes, scrub well and rinse clean. We do not use bleach on seeds - EVER! If you want to
know why READ THIS.
Everything Else
Kid's SproutZone
Grow some
Brassica
Knowledge
Food Safety
A Genus of plants from the family Brassicaceae, whose members include Broccoli, Mustard
Center
and Cabbage. See Chart
Nutrition in
Sprouts
Who We
Carbohydrate
Are/What We
Any of a group
of organic compounds that includes sugars, starches, celluloses, and gums
Want
and serves as a major energy source in the diet of animals. These compounds are produced
Downloadable
by photosynthetic plants and contain only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, usually in the ratio
Stuff
1:2:1.
Documents &
Desktop Pics!
Sproutpeople
Site & Policies
Certified
Chlorophyll
Any of a group of green pigments that are found in the chloroplasts of plants and in other
photosynthetic organisms.
Cotyledon
Sproutpeople Home
The first leaves of the embryonic plant within the seed that are used as a food supply for the
germinating embryo. Also called a "seed leaf".
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Cull(ed)(ing)
1. To pick out from others; select. 2. To gather; collect. 3. To remove rejected members or
parts from (a batch of seeds, for example). Something picked out from others, especially
something rejected because of inferior quality.
Dark/Darkness
Absence or deficiency of light. Used in growing Greens especially. Keeping a crop "in the
dark" allows the plants to grow taller than they would if light were readily available, in some
cases.
Decorticate
In Sprouting Seed: The removal of the thin "coat" of a Lentil by machine. The only
decorticated Lentil we usually sell we call Orange Lentil. It is most commonly a decorticated
Crimson Lentil. For further confusions see Hulled.
Dicot
A flowering plant with two embryonic seed leaves or cotyledons that usually appear at
germination.
Dogma
An authoritative principle, belief, or statement of ideas or opinion, especially one considered
to be absolutely true.
Dormant
1. In a condition of biological rest or inactivity characterized by cessation of growth or
development and the suspension of many metabolic processes. 2. Lying asleep or as if
asleep; inactive.
Drain(ing)
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The process necessary after every Rinse. Insufficient Draining is the most common cause of
failure for sprout growers. Read all about Draining.
Enzyme
Any of numerous proteins or conjugated proteins produced by living organisms and
functioning as biochemical catalysts. All Mammals - including Human Beings - and many
other living creatures, require Enzymes for ALL cellular function. No Enzymes = no life.
There is a theory which says humans have a given amount of Enzymes (like women have all
their eggs at birth), that we MUST consume Enzymes to survive and prosper. Enzymes come
from raw and living foods. Eating raw and living foods provides us with these vital proteins.
Eating dead food uses our body's limited store of Enzymes. Eat More Sprouts!
Enzyme Inhibitor
A substance that stops an enzyme reaction. Dormant (dry) seeds remain dormant because
of their Enzyme Inhibitors. Humans (and our pets - as the Bird People and the BARF (Bones
And Raw Food) Dog People know) eat way too many "dead foods" - foods without Enzymes.
Once a seed soaks its Enzyme Inhibitors are no more. Soaked and Sprouted Seeds are
LIVING FOOD - they contain their own Enzymes and so require none from your body - or as
we say - Sprouts digest themselves.
Floater
Seeds that remain atop the water (with the exception of seeds in shells like Sunflower Greens
and Buckwheat Lettuce) after the soak stage. When a seed is still floating after the soak
stage it sometimes indicates a dead seed. There are so many minor exceptions to this rule
that we no longer specify to "pour off the floaters" after soaking. In most cases there aren't
enough floaters to disrupt the crop and since so many seeds that will sprout may be floating
(Brassicas often have floaters like this) we've decided to let the floaters pass.
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Fruit Fly
The pesky little flying bug that appears from nowhere - usually in warm weather - and
usually around ripe fruit or vegetables that are out in the open. Fruit flies can get into some
sprouters but do no harm. You can try Rinsing more often but we generally just tolerate them
when they are around. We've never found any way to get rid of them. They do no harm.
Germ
The cytoplasm of a germ cell, especially that part containing the chromosomes.
Germination
1. To begin to sprout or grow. 2. To come into existence
GMO
Genetically Modified Organism. ALL of our seeds are certified NON-GMO!!!
Grain
1. The fruits of cereal grasses (wheat, rye, oats, etc.) especially after having been harvested,
considered as a group. 2. A small, dry, one-seeded fruit of a cereal grass, having the fruit
and the seed walls united: a single grain of wheat. The seed of Grains are often called a
Berry or Berrie
Grass
Any of various plants having slender leaves characteristic of the grass family. Consumed for
their amazing nutritional value by humans, usually in the form of juice, and by animals by
chewing - all of the cereal grasses have very similar nutritional value, but wheat is favored
for it's availability, ease of growing and flavor (if you think wheat grass juice is bad, try
barley!)
Green
A plant produced by a seed which has been planted on soil or other water retaining medium
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and then harvested above the surface of that medium. See Greens information page.
Green(ing)
The process of photosynthesis by which a plant absorbs light. In sprouting: To expose a
sprout, grass or greens to light, thus allowing it to turn green.
Groat
A seed which has had its hull removed. Typically used in reference to Buckwheat which has
been hulled and sometimes to Oats. Oats which have been hulled are almost certainly NOT
sproutable as the hulling process is quite damaging to that tender grain. You may use whole
(not hulled) Oats for growing grass, but the hulls are not edible. We sell only Hulless Oats
which are Oats grown without a hull. Buckwheat is rarely damaged even in the least by
hulling, so the groat of that seed is quite good for sprouting (if the seed is of sufficiently high
quality).
Hard Seed
A seed that refuses to soak up water is called a Hard Seed and though these can be present
in any type of seed, they are most common in Adzuki Beans. If you find that some of your
seeds are as hard after 8-12 hours of soaking as they were before you should try soaking
them in warm/hot water. (See Hot Soak, directly below)
In nature when a plant matures to the point that it has produced seed and dried, it's seed will
drop to the ground. Over the winter that seed will work its way into the ground as the soil
heaves with freezes and thaws. When the weather warms and moisture becomes available,
the dormant the seeds soak up water. They begin to germinate and start the cycle of growing
plants which can produce seed. If however the plants die for some reason (poor weather for
example), the seeds that are still dormant (the hard seeds) can sustain the species. In many
cases the hard seeds will remain dormant until another spring comes, at which time they will
soak up water and begin to grow plants that can produce seeds and re-start the cycle all over
again. Since we are sprouting these seeds we do not want hard seeds - they are as hard as
rocks in many cases. As with any beans used in our kitchen it is always a good idea to cull
(check) them for rocks and for hard seeds. Though they are very rare in good sprouting seed
they can be present.
Hot Soak
The use of warm or hot water during the Soaking of sprouting seed. We do not recommend
this unless your SEED supplier (us we trust =;-) states it is necessary, or you feel like
experimenting.
The use of Hot or Warm water will shorten the time your seeds need to soak or force Hard
Seeds (see item just above) to soak up water. The drawback is that you can "cook" your
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seeds if you use water which is too hot, or if you let them soak for too long.
To remedy beans that remain hard after 12 hours in cool water: Rinse well and then Soak the
seeds again in 90-100 water until hard seeds are no longer hard (usually 8-12 hours). Rinse
well and perform all future Rinses with cool water. Note: the Soak water will cool as time
passes. That is as it should be. As long as you start with the right temperature you should
meet with success.
If you have some seeds (or mixes which contain seeds) that you KNOW beforehand will
remain hard in a cool water Soak, you should skip the cool water Soak and just start out with
the hotter water. The 2nd Soak (outlined in the previous paragraph) is for emergency use
only. You will do much better if your seeds Soak only as long as they need to. Soaking too
long can waterlog seeds and Soaking in hot water can "cook" them, so it is follows that if you
can get all of your seeds soaked in 12 hours they are much better off.
If you are in a pinch for time you can use 90-100 water to cut the soak time down. We do
not suggest this, but we have at times done this - out of necessity. With leafy sprouts and
Brassica sprouts you should Soak no longer than 1 1/2 hours. For grains 3-4 hours. For beans
the time varies - you should count on 4 at least and as many as 12 hours. You know it is time
to stop Soaking when your seeds can be squished between your fingers.
The most extreme hard seed story: We have even experienced seeds so determined to stay
hard (Adzukis in 1995) that they required 3 consecutive 12 hour Soaks in hot water! We
would Rinse between the Soaks - a MUST anytime you Soak longer than 12 hours - and add
new hot water to Soak. We were very glad when new seeds were available!
Hull(ing)
Hull: The dry outer covering of a seed or nut.
Hulling: The removal of hulls.
We do not mind most hulls - mostly we consider them to be extra roughage. Most Legumes
(Beans, Alfalfa, Clover) have hulls, some of which will float or otherwise make themselves
available for removal, during regular Rinsing and Draining. You may choose to De-Hull your
crop or not. Here is the method. We do remove hulls from Brassica Sprouts (Broccoli, Radish,
etc.) as they are so big (relative to the sprout) and wet that they compromise both texture
and storage of the finished sprouts if not removed.
Hulled
There is bound to be some confusion here, let me add to it: Most seeds grow in shells
(Sunflower, Buckwheat, Almond, Pumpkin) or pods (Beans, Alfalfa, Clover, Peanuts,
Fenugreek, Radish, Broccoli, Mustard, etc.), and those seeds have a hull as well - it is a thin
dry cover around the seed itself. But in the seed "industry" the word HULLED refers to a seed
which has had it's outer most portion removed. So a HULLED seed is, in our case, a seed
which has been removed from it's shell or pod (see below for more confusion). For example:
We use two types of Sunflower seed - WHOLE (still in its shell) for growing Sunflower Greens,
and HULLED (the shell removed) for Sprouts. But, that Hulled Sunflower still has a thin dry
cover (hull)! The one exception we can think of is Buckwheat. Whole Buckwheat is used to
grow Greens called Buckwheat Lettuce. Hulled Buckwheat is known as Buckwheat Groats.
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Hull removal is done with machines which can damage the seeds. In the case of
Almonds it nicks and scratches some of the nuts. With soft seeds like Sunflowers it can
destroy the seed - which is why it is not always easy to find good sprouting Sunflower
seeds. Some seeds are not effected in the least - like Buckwheat Groats and almost all
Beans, most Grains, Alfalfa, Clover, Fenugreek, Radish, Broccoli, Mustard and many
many more. The HULLED seeds which are difficult to find in good condition are
Sunflower, Almond, Peanuts, Pumpkin, Spelt and Barley. Some are impossible, so we
only carry Hulless versions (Oats are the currently the only such seed).
Also see Decorticate, Hulless and Whole
Hulless
A seed which is of a type that usually grows with a Hull, but which in this case is grown
without a Hull. Hulless is in some cases preferable to Hulled because the seed is not
subjected to the mechanical process of Hull removal. Oats are the best example of a seed
which will virtually never withstand the Hulling process and so must be Hulless if used for
sprouting.
Also see Hulled and Whole
Hybrid
The offspring of a cross between parent varieties (usually of the same species) that are
genetically different.
Hybrid seeds are usually quite expensive. If you plant a hybrid seed and harvest the seed
produced by the resulting plant, those seeds will not produce the same plant again if planted,
but rather will revert to aspects of their original parentage. Seeds that produce plants, which
yield the same genetic seed every crop cycle are called open-pollinated. All of our seeds are
open-pollinated.
Hydroponic
A method of growing plants which uses no soil or medium. Hydroponic production has plants
roots in water and uses fertilizer to feed them. Sprouting is basically hydroponic though we
don't generally use fertilizer - though we are experimenting with liquid organic fertilizers at
the present time.
When we refer to hydroponic Grass or Greens, we are speaking about the complete lack of a
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medium. We don't care for that method - though we've tried it and wish we liked it as it
would simplify our lives as commercial sprout growers. Somewhere in between hydroponics
and soil is a soilless medium. We are also experimenting with that presently for large Greens
and Grass. We already use it for small crops of Micro-Greens and tests so far are very
positive. We will offer such a medium and organic fertilizers) if and when we are completely
satisfied that the method works well.
Legume
A large family often called the "Pea Family", which is the home of many a sprouting seed:
Alfalfa, Clover, Lentils, Peas, Garbanzo, Mung, Adzuki, Black, Pinto, Soy and many other
Beans, Fenugreek.
Light
That which allows sprouts leaves to turn green. It takes very little light to green sprouts.
Sprouts can't take light in until they have leaves, and until they have leaves, light has
virtually no effect - so don't hide your sprouts in the dark! Let 'em breathe! Direct sunlight is
not advisable as it can cook your sprouts - especially if you're growing in a closed sprouter.
See the seed and sprouter instruction pages for details.
Lot
As in SEED LOT. Seeds are harvested at a farm, cleaned, inspected, tested, bagged and
shipped. Each crop in each year from each farm is given a lot number to identify it.
Medium
That upon which we plant our seeds when we intend to produce plants like Grass, Greens and
Micro-Greens. Normally we use soil (we have used many tons of sterile bagged soil to
produce our non-sprout crops since we started back in 1993), but anything that holds water
can be considered a medium. The lowest example of a medium is paper towel, but a good
medium is something that holds water longer, and is of course, organic. We now offer two
soilless mediums along with an organic liquid fertilizer. Both Baby Blanket and Vermiculite
offer a cleaner medium for planting, and with the addition of Kelpman liquid kelp fertilizer,
you can now produce great crops with much less mess.
Monocot
Any of various flowering plants, such as grasses, having a single cotyledon in the seed.
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Mucilaginous
1. Resembling mucilage; moist and sticky. 2. Relating to or secreting mucilage. In sprouting:
A seed which has a hull that when water is contacted, absorbs that water and turns into a
"gel-sack". Usually slippery, these seeds can NOT grow by traditional water-only sprouting
methods. They may be grown if mixed with an appropriate percentage of non-mucilaginous
seeds (French Garden, Italian Blend, Nick's Hot Sprout Salad). To grow them alone they must
be planted on a growing medium and harvested as Greens (Micro-Greens).
Mucilaginous seeds include: Arugula, Basil, Chia, Cress, Flax and (some) Mustards (not ours).
Fenugreek
Alfalfa
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Yield = 7:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 3 - 4 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2 - 6 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, E and K
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Zinc
Carotene, Chlorophyll
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: 35%
Sprouting Instructions
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These seeds yield approximately 7:1, so in theory you can start with as much as 1/7 as
much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise 1/8 so that you have some
room to move).
We often start with 3 Tablespoons of seed but we don't mind the extra work involved in
growing a dense crop. You may doubt that these little seeds will fill your sprouter, but they
will. We advise everyone to start with 2 Tablespoons when learning to sprout these seeds.
** You may use a salad spinner to dry your sprouts
after De-Hulling/final Rinse and go directly to Refrigeration.
Notes:
When conditions are warmer your sprouts will likely grow faster. Likewise they may grow
slower if conditions are very cool. As always 70 is optimal.
All sprouts generate heat while growing, which is a good thing, but it can get out of hand on
occasion. When the weather is especially hot and humid you will do well to Rinse more
frequently (every 8 hours if possible) using colder water than usual, to compensate.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light and so
some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be equally
nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more delicious (in
Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think they are prettier
when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So don't sweat it - just
eat more sprouts!
When using a non-tray sprouter, you can help your crop by "breaking up" your sprouts when
they clump up - around day 3 or 4 and daily thereafter. We use high water pressure when
Rinsing to keep our sprouts loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't
enough, break the clump of sprouts up using a fork or your fingers (wash your hands first
please, if they need it). If you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly full then
use a fork to loosen. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something and just shake
them apart. This is by no means mandatory - this loosening - but it can be helpful in keeping
your sprouts from overheating and will help more of them green. You should never be
afraid*** of touching your sprouts. They are much stronger then they appear - just be
reasonably gentle.
Vertical Growing
This method produces very pretty sprouts that green most evenly and whose hulls
are removed most easily. They do not however, taste any better =:-}
If you grow in a Tray sprouter - like SproutMaster, your sprouts can grow vertically - leaves
(cotyledons) up, roots down. The trick to doing this is to keep your sprouts in place (don't
"break them up" as you do in a non-tray sprouter) from day 3 onward. It is easy to do if,
when rinsing, you use a sprayer (that attachment most sinks have - the one that pulls out
and is gun-like or a faucet attachment that offers spraying when pulled down) instead of
your faucet. We have grown many tons of leafy sprouts this way. Here is a breakdown of the
specifics (rinse numbers are based on 12 hour intervals - adjust as needed):
Rinse 1 (right after soak): Use faucet or sprayer and rinse thoroughly (use water at high
pressure and use plenty of it).
Rinse 2 and 3: Use faucet or sprayer and rinse thoroughly.
Rinse 4: Use sprayer and while rinsing thoroughly, spray your sprouts evenly accross the
bottom of the tray. You can use your hands to spread them too. The goal is to spread them
evenly.
Rinse 5 and 6: Use sprayer with less water pressure. Rinse well - (which since you are
using less water pressure means - for a longer time) but don't disturb the sprouts.
- 96 -
Rinse 7 - 10: Use sprayer. You can turn the water pressure back to high - your sprouts will
not be easily moved (broken up) at this point and the higher water pressure feeds oxygen to
your sprouts as well as "cleaning" them, which is a wonderful way to produce healthy long
lasting sprouts. Rinse and drain thoroughly.
Rinse 11 (if you need this many) or your last rinse: Use Sprayer. Hold your tray at an angle
(90 will work but less is OK too) and spray across the top of the sprouts to remove hulls.
We call this SHAVING and it can be done at any rinse or every rinse - starting when hulls
begin to be shed by the opening leaves. Rinse down into the sprouts too.
Vertical growing CAN be done without a sprayer too but it is more difficult. If you want to try
all you have to do is regulate your water pressure - trying to keep your sprouts undisturbed
during rinses 4 - 6.
*** The only thing to fear is fear itself.
Clover
Clover
We now have 2!
Mild flavor, mild crunch, big time nutrition (especially for women),
easy to grow, beautiful green.
Seed to Sprout in 5 - 6 Days
Yield = 7:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 3 - 4 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2 - 6 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, E and K
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Zinc
Carotene, Chlorophyll
Amino Acids
Excellent for Women
Trace Elements
Protein: 35%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 2 Cups (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 2 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
- 97 -
Rinse more frequently (every 8 hours if possible) using colder water than usual, to
compensate.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light and
so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be
equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more
delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think
they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So
don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
When using a non-tray sprouter, you can help your crop by "breaking up" your sprouts
when they clump up - around day 3 or 4 and daily thereafter. We use high water pressure
when Rinsing to keep our sprouts loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water
isn't enough, break the clump of sprouts up using a fork or your fingers (wash your
hands first please, if they need it). If you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it
mostly full then use a fork to loosen. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into
something and just shake them apart. This is by no means mandatory - this loosening but it can be helpful in keeping your sprouts from overheating and will help more of
them green. You should never be afraid*** of touching your sprouts. They are much
stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
Vertical Growing
This method produces very pretty sprouts that green most evenly and whose hulls
are removed most easily. They do not however, taste any better =:-}
If you grow in a Tray sprouter - like SproutMaster, your sprouts can grow vertically leaves (cotyledons) up, roots down. The trick to doing this is to keep your sprouts in
place (don't "break them up" as you do in a non-tray sprouter) from day 3 onward. It is
easy to do if, when rinsing, you use a sprayer (that attachment most sinks have - the one
that pulls out and is gun-like or a faucet attachment that offers spraying when pulled
down) instead of your faucet. We have grown many tons of leafy sprouts this way. Here is
a breakdown of the specifics (rinse numbers are based on 12 hour intervals - adjust as
needed):
Rinse 1 (right after soak): Use faucet or sprayer and rinse thoroughly (use water at high
pressure and use plenty of it).
Rinse 2 and 3: Use faucet or sprayer and rinse thoroughly.
Rinse 4: Use sprayer and while rinsing thoroughly, spray your sprouts evenly accross the
bottom of the tray. You can use your hands to spread them too. The goal is to spread
them evenly.
Rinse 5 and 6: Use sprayer with less water pressure. Rinse well - (which since you are
using less water pressure means - for a longer time) but don't disturb the sprouts.
Rinse 7 - 10: Use sprayer. You can turn the water pressure back to high - your sprouts
will not be easily moved (the mass won't break apart) at this point and the higher water
pressure feeds oxygen to your sprouts as well as "cleaning" them, which is a wonderful
way to produce healthy long lasting sprouts. Rinse and Drain thoroughly.
Rinse 11 (if you need this many) or your last rinse: Use Sprayer. Hold your tray at an
- 99 -
angle (90 will work but less is OK too) and spray across the top of the sprouts to
remove hulls. We call this SHAVING and it can be done at any rinse or every rinse starting when hulls begin to be shed by the opening leaves. Rinse down into the sprouts
too.
Vertical growing CAN be done without a sprayer too but it is more difficult. If you want
to try all you have to do is regulate your water pressure - trying to keep your sprouts
undisturbed during rinses 4 - 6.
*** The only thing to fear is fear itself.
Printable Sprouting Instructions
Description
Red Clover is the standard choice. It is a small seed which we use as the base for most of
our gourmet Leafy sprout blends. Crimson Clover is a larger seed which produces a larger
sprout and is therefore a bit easier to grow. There is very little difference except for that.
Both are almost identical to Alfalfa in flavor - nutty and mild, but with a lighter green
leaf. We prefer Clover to Alfalfa as it sheds its hulls better and lasts longer in the
refrigerator - as a sprout.
Both of our Clovers are from Canada.
- 100 -
Garlic
Garlic Chive
Though it is actually the seed of a Garlic Chive plant
the Sprouts taste just like Garlic!!!!
Crop Note: We once again have seed from our long time garlic chive farmer!
It has been 3 years since he last had a crop. We are very happy to have his
seed again.
Seed to Sprout in 10 - 15 Days
Yield = 4.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 1 - 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2 - 4 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Zinc
Carotene, Chlorophyll
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: 20%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1/2 lb. of Sprouts
Prep 4 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Notes: Alliums tend to float. Try to sink those that do by knocking them down with your
fingers. Most of those floating seeds will sink during the hours they are soaking, but it is
a good habit to pay attention to your seed's needs, and this is the perfect place to start!
There tends to be some plant matter in with the seeds of Alliums. This plant matter is
nothing but small pieces of the plants which the seeds grew on. This plant matter has so
far eluded the massive seed cleaning methods used on sprouting seed. They will not
elude you! These dry plant bits usually float, so the perfect time to get rid of them is
before you soak - during seed Prep and/or after the seeds have soaked for 8 - 12 hours pour off the floating stuff. You can help by stirring the seeds up - thus helping any nonfloating bits to surface from below. Easy isn't it?
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
- 101 -
- 102 -
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. After the final Rinse we need
to Drain very thoroughly and let our sprouts dry a bit. If we minimize the surface
moisture of our sprouts they store much better in refrigeration, so we let them sit for 812 hours....
OR
We can use a salad spinner to dry the sprouts after their final Rinse and skip the final 812 hour wait, instead going directly to Refrigeration.
Refrigerate
Transfer the sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice.
Notes:
When conditions are warmer your sprouts will likely grow faster. Likewise they may
grow slower if conditions are very cool. As always 70 is optimal.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light
and so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be
equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more
delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think
they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So
don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
You can help your crop by "breaking up" your sprouts when they clump up - around day
5-10 and daily thereafter. We use high water pressure when Rinsing to keep our sprouts
loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't enough, break the clump of
sprouts up using a fork, or your fingers (wash your hands first please, if they need it). If
you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly full then use a fork to loosen
the mass of sprouts. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something and just
shake them apart. This is by no means mandatory - this loosening - but it can help more
of them green. Don't ever be afraid*** of touching your sprouts. They are much
stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
*** The only thing to fear is fear itself!
Ingredient Note
All references to Garlic on sproutpeople.com or any other sprouting seed supplier refers
to the seed produced by a Garlic Chive plant. Garlic does not produce seeds - it
produces bulbuls and bulbs. Garlic Chive is virtually identical in flavor to Garlic.
Seed Storage
Alliums have the shortest shelf life of any sprouting seed. Since they are also so
painfully expensive we suggest that you freeze your seed. Keep them in any sealed
container. The only concern is condensation and all you need to do to avoid it is, return
- 103 -
the seed to the freezer within a few minutes, after you've removed what you need to
sprout. You do not have to wait to soak the seeds.
* If using Single Harvest Pack - use the whole bag.
Alliums yield approximately 4.5:1, so in theory you can start with as much as 1/5 as
much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Though it is actually a chive seed, it tastes just like Garlic. You can find Garlic in our
Leafy sprout - Italian Blend as well. The slowest sprout, Garlic takes up to 14 days to
finish sprouting - but it is worth it!
Mustard
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 2 Cups (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 3 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
- 104 -
Note: Brassicas tend to float. Try to sink those that do by knocking them down with
your fingers. It isn't a big deal but it is a good habit.
Allow seeds to Soak for 6-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter (if necessary).
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water.
Drain thoroughly.
Set your Sprouter anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is
optimal) between Rinses.
This is where your sprouts do their growing. We use a counter top in our kitchen - right
in the middle of the room but where the sprouter won't get knocked over by kids, dogs,
cats or us. Our kitchen gets no direct sun but we don't mind the diffuse sunlight or the
150 watts of incandescent light. When we're sprouting Mung Beans we may choose a
darker corner of the room, but 99% of the time we just don't avoid light. Light just does
not matter much. A plant can only perform photosynthesis when it has leaves. Until then
light has little if any effect, so don't hide your sprouts!
Rinse and Drain again every 8-12 hours for 3 days.
As long as you grow you have to keep the sprouts happy!
Note: These wonderful little Brassica plants have a unique root structure. Brassicas
will show microscopic roots starting around day 3. They are called root hairs and are
most visible just before Rinsing when the sprouts are at their driest. When you Rinse the
root hairs will collapse back against the main root. These root hairs impress many
people as mold - but they are not. Now you know!
Greening
On the 4th day relocate your sprouts if necessary.
If you've been keeping them away from light, move them. Avoid direct sun - it can cook
your sprouts. Indirect sunlight is best but virtually any light will do. Experiment - you
will be amazed at how little light sprouts require to green up.
Note: Mustard is a sprout we prefer NOT to green. We like them yellow (like prepared
mustard), so we stop as soon as they have leaves. We then de-hull and eat them. They
don't store very well as they are so fine (thin) and they hold so much moisture relative to
their mass - so though they will keep for several days we usually just eat 'em up fresh!
Continue to Rinse and Drain every 8-12 hours.
As long as you grow you have to keep the sprouts happy.
Finishing
Your sprouts will be done during day 5 or 6.
The majority of sprouts will have open leaves which will be green if you exposed them
to light.
- 105 -
De-Hull
Before your final Rinse remove the seed hulls.
Brassica sprout hulls are quite large (relative to the seed and sprout) and they hold a lot
of water (which can dramatically lessen the shelf life of your sprouts), so we remove
them:
Transfer the sprouts to a big (at least 3-4 times the volume of your sprouter) pot or
bowl, fill with cool water, loosen the sprout mass and agitate with your hand. Skim the
hulls off the surface. Return the sprouts to your sprouter for their Rinse and Drain.
That's the short course - here is the full lesson.
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. After the De-Hulling and the
final Rinse we need to Drain very thoroughly and let our sprouts dry a bit. If we
minimize the surface moisture of our sprouts they store much better in refrigeration, so
we let them sit for 8-12 hours....
OR
We can use a salad spinner to dry the sprouts after their final Rinse and skip the final 812 hour wait, instead going directly to Refrigeration.
Refrigerate
Transfer the sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice.
Notes:
Mustard is the most demanding Brassica to sprout, but it is well worth the effort! It's
flavor is beyond compare!!! It is fine (thin) and holds a lot of water. Draining is most
critical - be as thorough as you possibly can be. Don't even try to grow Mustard if it is
over 85. Wait for cooler weather. But if you insist you can try to compensate by rinsing
with the coldest water your tap puts out.
When conditions are warm your sprouts will likely grow faster. If their leaves open
sooner you should green and de-hull and harvest sooner. Likewise they may grow
slower if conditions are very cool. These are just tiny plants they are not difficult to
understand. The more you sprout the better you'll know them and be able to adjust to
their needs. As always 70 is optimal and 70 is what our instructions are written for.
All sprouts generate heat while growing, which is a good thing, but it can get out of
hand on occasion. When the weather is especially hot and humid you will do well to
Rinse more frequently (every 8 hours if possible) using colder water than usual (the
coldest your tap can offer is fine), to compensate.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light
and so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow leafed sprouts
will be equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them
more delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We
think they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white
roots. So don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
- 106 -
It is ESSENTIAL that you keep Brassica sprouts from clumping together and you CAN
NOT grow them vertically using a tray sprouter. Brassica sprouts will mat together
forming a dense bluish root mass which not only is unattractive but shortens the shelf
life of the finished sprouts. So mix em up! We use high water pressure when Rinsing to
keep our brassica sprouts loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't
enough, break the clump of sprouts up using a fork or your fingers (wash your hands
first please, if they need it). If you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly
full then use a fork to loosen. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something
and just shake them apart. You should never be afraid** of touching your sprouts. They
are much stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
** The only thing to fear is fear itself.
Mustard Note
The Mustard we sell is non-mucilaginous. Most Mustard seed is mucilaginous however,
so if you have some Mustard from someone other than us, and if it gets slippery when
you soak it, you'll have to grow it differently. Follow these directions for mucilaginous
Mustard.
* If using Single Harvest Pack - use the whole bag.
These seeds yield approximately 5:1, so in theory you can start with as much as 1/5 as
much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise less so that you have
some room to move).
Description
A wonderful tender sprout, this Mustard tastes like Horseradish - Mmmmm!
This is Oriental Mustard - it is a yellow seed and is the only non-mucilaginous Mustard we've
ever seen and therefore the only Mustard you can sprout in a conventional sprouter.
Note: US and Canadian researchers have found that many brassicas contain antioxidants.
And that a symbiotic relationship exists where combining brassicas increases the total soluble
antioxidants.
It's a family thing =:-D
- 107 -
Onion
The variety may change, but it is always onion, they never make you cry and the
Sprouts taste just like Onions!
Seed to Sprout in 10 - 15 Days
Yield = 4.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 1 - 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2 - 4 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Zinc
Carotene, Chlorophyll
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: 20%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1/2 lb. of Sprouts
Prep 4 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Notes: Alliums tend to float. Try to sink those that do by knocking them down with your
fingers. Most of those floating seeds will sink during the hours they are soaking, but it is
a good habit to pay attention to your seed's needs, and this is the perfect place to start!
There tends to be some plant matter in with the seeds of Alliums. This plant matter is
nothing but small pieces of the plants which the seeds grew on. This plant matter has so
far eluded the massive seed cleaning methods used on sprouting seed. They will not
- 108 -
elude you! These dry plant bits usually float, so the perfect time to get rid of them is
before you soak - during seed Prep and/or after the seeds have soaked for 8 - 12 hours pour off the floating stuff. You can help by stirring the seeds up - thus helping any nonfloating bits to surface from below. Easy isn't it?
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Note: Now is a good time to discard floating plant bits.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter (if necessary).
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water.
Drain thoroughly.
Set your Sprouter anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is
optimal) between Rinses.
When we sprout at home we use a counter top in our kitchen - right in the middle of the
room but where the sprouter won't get knocked over by kids, dogs, cats or us. Our
kitchen is not very bright and anyway, light just does not matter much. A plant can only
perform photosynthesis when it has leaves. Until then light has little if any effect, so
don't hide your sprouts! This is most true with Alliums because they can begin
photosynthesis as soon as they sprout. Unlike other seeds, Alliums sprout their plant
first, not their root.
Rinse and Drain every 8-12 hours.
Alliums take A LONG TIME to germinate! Just keep Rinsing and Draining Thoroughly,
at least twice a day.
You should see some sprouting action in between 4 and 7 days. Don't give up - EVER they will sprout!
Note: Alliums are unique in that the sprout they produce is actually the plant - as
opposed to the root - which is what almost all other seeds produce during the sprouting
process. These plants look like - and are - tiny little Greens - like micro-scallions! As
soon as these micro-scallions emerge from the seed they are able to take up light because they are the leaf! You don't have to do anything drastic but you can move on
to......
Greening
Once you see sprouting, Relocate your sprouts - if necessary.
If you've been keeping them away from light for some reason, move them. Avoid direct
sun - it can cook your sprouts. Indirect sunlight is best but virtually any light will do.
Experiment - you will be amazed at how little light sprouts require to green up.
Continue to Rinse and Drain every 8-12 hours.
As long as you grow you have to keep the sprouts happy.
Finishing
Your sprouts will be done between day 10 and 15.
- 109 -
The majority of sprouts will have long thin micro-scallions, which will be green if you
exposed them to light. You can eat them at any length but if you let them get to an inch
or more the seed itself will be more tender.
Note: The seed of an Allium is pretty intense. If you grow for a long enough time, many
will fall away from the sprout, but we've never gone that long. They just taste toooooo
good and we don't mind the seed enough to wait.
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. After the final Rinse we need
to Drain very thoroughly and let our sprouts dry a bit. If we minimize the surface
moisture of our sprouts they store much better in refrigeration, so we let them sit for 812 hours....
OR
We can use a salad spinner to dry the sprouts after their final Rinse and skip the final 812 hour wait, instead going directly to Refrigeration.
Refrigerate
Transfer the sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice.
Notes:
When conditions are warmer your sprouts will likely grow faster. Likewise they may
grow slower if conditions are very cool. As always 70 is optimal.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light
and so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be
equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more
delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think
they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So
don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
You can help your crop by "breaking up" your sprouts when they clump up - around day
5-10 and daily thereafter. We use high water pressure when Rinsing to keep our sprouts
loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't enough, break the clump of
sprouts up using a fork, or your fingers (wash your hands first please, if they need it). If
you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly full then use a fork to loosen
the mass of sprouts. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something and just
shake them apart. This is by no means mandatory - this loosening - but it can help more
of them green. Don't ever be afraid*** of touching your sprouts. They are much
stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
*** The only thing to fear is fear itself!
* If using Single Harvest Pack - use the whole bag.
Alliums yield approximately 4.5:1, so in theory you can start with as much as 1/5 as
much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
- 110 -
Description
An Onion seed produces a tiny onion plant - like a miniature scallion. Usually a sprout is a
root, but in the case of the alliums it is a shoot (that part of a plant which, if grown in a
garden or on soil etc., grows above the soil) - which tastes just like an Onion, what else?
Onion takes about 10 - 15 days to sprout. This is the finest sprouting Onion seed ever, it is
certified organic too! The supply is very limited, so the price is high - but as with the other
Alliums - it is totally worth it! You can find onion as an ingredient in our Russian Mix - which
is our personal favorite leafy blend.
Adzuki Bean
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 111 -
Adzukis also tend to have more hard seed than other seed types. If you buy your seed
from us this is not a concern, but if you buy Adzuki or other seeds elsewhere be sure to
examine them after soaking to make sure there are no hard seeds (seeds that are as hard
after soaking as before) lurking at the bottom. If there are - throw those (the hard ones)
out! They are easy to spot as they are smaller than those that are swollen with water.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, once more...
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps once more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, if you insist - once again...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
We usually stop here. We prefer our sprouts small.
Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for as
long as you can keep the seeds/sprouts alive and growing.
However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds have sprouted
tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 4-5 Rinse and Drain cycles. They'll last
longer in the refrigerator and to us they just taste perfect at this stage - but hey - that's
just us!
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed!) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
you.
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you keep sprouting
for a week you'll get some plants growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
- 112 -
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating
them all first.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 2:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 1/2 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise 1/3 so
that you have some room to move).
Garbanzo Beans
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 114 -
Remember that the yield will be approximately 2:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 1/2 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise 1/3 so
that you have some room to move).
Lentils
Black, Crimson, Eston, French Blue, Green, Orange, Pardina, Red, & White
Our personal favorite sprouting legume
comes in many colors and sizes and is always beautiful and delicious!
Seed to Sprout in 2-3 Days
Yield = 2:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 5 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2-6 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Phosphorus
Protein: 25%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 115 -
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, once more...
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps once more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
We usually stop here. We like our sprouts small.
Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for up
to 6 days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds have
sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Note: Not all Lentils will sprout at the same time. They are close enough to mix together
certainly, so we mix them. You Don't have to wait for all of them to actually pop a root
(sprout) - it isn't necessary and it can cause some of your seeds to over-sprout, but it is
your choice.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed!) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
you.
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll get some plants growing as well as roots. Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating
them all first.
Descriptions
Many colors in different sizes but always the same lovely shape, lentils are one of the
greatest seeds on Earth! The seed itself remains viable (it germinates well) for years,
they sprout fast and with minimal effort, they taste great as 2 day sprouts and as 7 day
sprouts with tiny plants growing out one end, the sprouts can last in your refrigerator for
2 months and they can be eaten raw or cooked in a multitude of ways - their unique
shape means they'll even stay on a sandwich!
Black
Black Food is all too rare - and beautiful and
Lentils are our favorite sprout - this is a
fantastic seed. Very easy to grow.
Crimson
Another in our beautiful and delicious and
easy to grow Lentil line, Crimson Lentils are
smaller and plumper and of a darker orange
than Red Chief. Exceptionally beautiful!
Eston
A small green Lentil, Eston, as you might
expect, is beautiful, tasty and easy to grow.
Truely exquisite!
French Blue
The most unusual of the Lentils - they are
mottled blue with green and black highlights.
As with all lentils these are very delicious and
very easy to grow.
Green
The most common Lentil, Greens are the
largest, and are equally easy to grow and very
delicious, as well as the least expensive.
Orange
Pardina
Tastes great and is gorgeous (sorry we don't
have a picture yet). Kind of a cross (visually)
of Crimson and French Blue. Hard to keep in
stock.
Red Chief
Another beautiful, delicious and Easy to grow
Lentil, Red Chief will shed their skins when
sprouted to reveal a gorgeous bright orange
color.
- 117 -
White
Another great tasting Lentil, Whites range in
color from white to light green. They are not
nearly as white as blacks are black but they are
a great addition to any lentil collection just the
same.
Peas
Green, Speckled, Marrowfat, Tiny Mottled Bill Jump & Yellow Peas
Many shapes, many sizes, many Peas!
All Delicious, All Nutritious!
Seed to Sprout in 2-3 Days
Yield = 2:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 4-6 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 2-6 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Phosphorus
Amino Acids
Protein: 25%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 118 -
- 119 -
Remember that the yield will be approximately 2:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 1/2 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity (though we advise 1/3 so
that you have some room to move).
Description
Many colors in different sizes and shapes, Peas will last for years, they sprout fast and
with minimal effort, they taste great as 2 day sprouts and are very popular with kids of
all ages: When the sprouts are let grow for 4, 5, 6 or more days (depending on the pea
and your climate) they will form long roots on one end and Shoots on the other - with
the Pea in between. Apparently there is some fun to be had in pulling them apart while
holding the pea in your teeth which children truly appreciate. Maybe its a Midwestern
kid thing =:-}
Pea sprouts can last in your refrigerator for 2 months and they can be eaten raw, or
cooked in a multitude of ways!
Peanut
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 120 -
- 121 -
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating
them all first.
Description
Raw Valencia Peanuts make for one WAY DELICIOUS sprout!
We have gotten thousands of folks addicted to these over the years at the Dane County
Farmer's Market in Madison, Wisconsin (where we sold sprouts most Saturdays from
April - November, from 1993-2002). Peanuts are best when they put out only a bulge at
their tip, not a big sprout, but you can decide for yourself (assuming that you can keep
from eating them long enough to let them grow). Remember - the seed loses its Enzyme
Inhibitors as soon as it soaks - so eat sooner - it's all good!
- 122 -
Cabbage
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 2 Cups (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 3 Tablespoons of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again every 8-12 hours for 3 days.
See this note!
- 123 -
- 124 -
Rinse more frequently (every 8 hours if possible) using colder water than usual, to
compensate.
Depending on your sprouting device, not all of your sprouts will have access to light
and so some will not green. This is not only OK - it is good. The yellow sprouts will be
equally nutritious (they have everything but chlorophyll) and many think them more
delicious (in Europe vegetables are often grown "blanched" by avoiding light). We think
they are prettier when there is a mix of green and yellow to go with the white roots. So
don't sweat it - just eat more sprouts!
It is ESSENTIAL that you keep Brassica sprouts from clumping together and you CAN
NOT grow them vertically using a tray sprouter. Brassica sprouts will mat together
forming a dense bluish root mass which not only is unattractive but shortens the shelf
life of the finished sprouts. So mix em up! We use high water pressure when Rinsing to
keep our Brassica sprouts loose, but this only works for so long - so - when water isn't
enough, break the clump of sprouts up using a fork or your fingers (wash your hands
first please, if they need it). If you are using a sprouter that can hold water, fill it mostly
full then use a fork to loosen. You can also dump your sprouts onto or into something
and just shake them apart. You should never be afraid**** of touching your sprouts.
They are much stronger then they appear - just be reasonably gentle.
**** The only thing to fear is fear itself.
Description
Cabbage is a small seed which produces a mild Brassica flavored sprout. Easy to grow
and very tasty, we offer both Organic and Conventional (non-organic) Cabbage Both
sprout wonderfully. Organic Cabbage is very very hard to come by and expensive.
Our certified organic Red Cabbage produces a gorgeous sprout with red and purple
highlights while our conventional Green Cabbage produces a more typical - though
equally delicious - green sprout!
Note: Canadian and US researchers have found that Brassicas contain antioxidants
such as sulfurophane. Cabbage is a Brassica.
- 125 -
Grains are a quick sprout, taking as little as 24 hours and no more than 2 or 3 days to
produce a finished sprout. If you let large grains (wheat, barley, rye,etc.) grow for
several days they produce grass. Grains are all sweet, though some more than others.
Kids love them because of their sweetness. They can be used in breads, as a cereal, in
stir-frys or as a snack - or anything else you can imagine. Oats + Groats and Amber
Waves make a fantastic super nutritious breakfast - top with some fruit, nuts, milk,
maple syrup....anything - you won't believe how great grain sprouts can be!
- 126 -
Amaranth
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Description
An ancient grain which is the smallest seed of all is also one that you do not even soak.
They appear water repellant but just rinse and drain for a few days and these
microscopic seeds sprout tiny tails.
Very nutritious. So small that you can add the to any food!
- 128 -
Wheat Sprout
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 129 -
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Amazingly sweet, Wheat is a quick and easy sprout favored by children and adults
alike. Snack on it, grind it and throw a bunch into homemade breads, add to stir frys or
salads. We carry Hard Winter Wheat - usually Red but on occasion White (they sprout
exactly the same) as it has the longest shelf life. This is the same seed used to grow
grass for which is found on our Grass page.
We don't carry soft wheat as it doesn't store well and often sprouts poorly. If you want to
make Rejuvelac we suggest (and use ourselves) Rye, but any Grain can be used.
- 130 -
Rye Sprout
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 131 -
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Rye is a quick and easy, sweet sprout favored by children and adults alike. Snack on it,
grind it and throw a bunch into homemade breads, add to stir frys or salads.
This is the same seed used to grow grass for which is found on our Grass page.
If you want to make Rejuvelac we suggest (and use ourselves) Rye, but any Grain can
be used.
- 132 -
Barley Sprout
Hulless Barley
Purple and/or White
This hulless seed is intended for Sprouting. It will grow grass, but you will get better grass from whole barley.
A sprouting grain which is less sweet than most, but equally nutritious.
Seed to Sprout in 2-3 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 133 -
Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
A quick sprout which is a bit less sweet than other grain sprouts.This hulless grain is
great for sprouting and can also be used to grow grass (though we recommend Whole
Barley, found on our Grass page for that). We offer whatever variety we have at any
given time (always the best available) - usually a mix of Purple and White but on
occasion one or the other.
Hulless Canadian and Montana Barley
- 134 -
Triticale Sprouts
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 135 -
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
A grain developed not too many years ago, Triticale is a combination of Wheat and Rye,
so it is sweet and easy to grow. It was originally thought to be a solution to world
hunger as it is easy for farmers to grow in most parts of the world and it is - of course very nutritious. As with all of our seeds, this is an open-pollinated seed not a hybrid.
You can use Triticale to make Rejuvelac. We prefer Rye, but any Grain can be used.
- 136 -
Oats
Oat Note: Due to poor crop years of 2002 , 2003 and 2004 (very little precipitation, high temperatures,
etc.) Oats continue to be in VERY short supply (and so the price continues to be high) and their quality
is not as great as back in 2001. 2005 was a much better growing season, but the supply is still limited
for some reason. These are the best Oats out there and we're glad to have them (though, as always, we
don't have much). Get 'em while you can!
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Description
These are hulless Oats - they are a very fast sprout are a wonderfully tender grain with a
mild sweetness.
These are fresh off the farm in Nebraska.
They are NOT Groats.
They are NOT heated.
They ARE RAW HULLESS OATS.
- 138 -
Spelt Sprouts
Hulled Spelt
Another sweet and easy to grow grain, Spelt is a great and popular
alternative for those who are allergic to, or avoiding Wheat.
Note: This is the same seed we sell for Spelt Grass.
Seed to Sprout in 2-3 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 139 -
Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
A great alternative for those allergic to Wheat.
Though this is Hulled it is a great sprouting seed - the farmer we get it from - in Indiana
- has a special hulling method which produces the greatest results we've ever seen!
You can also grow grass from our hulled Spelt (usually). We do not carry whole Spelt
but if you have some of that you can use it to grow Spelt Grass but not sprouts - the hull
is not edible.
You can use Spelt to make Rejuvelac. We prefer Rye, but any Grain can be used.
- 140 -
Kamut
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 141 -
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious! If you grow for a week
you'll have grass growing as well as roots.
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that grains are cool weather crops,
so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Kamut is an ancient grain which is now a patented US product. The story is that a
farmer from Montana found some seeds while serving in Northern Africa during WWII.
He brought the seeds back to the family farm and after years of raising the crop applied
for and was given a patent by the US government. Whatever the case, this is a truly
awesome grain! It is bigger than wheat and slightly less sweet as well as more tender.
Kamut is something we rarely have, so get some while you can. This lot of seed is the
most beautiful we've ever seen - and it sprouts wonderfully!
You can also grow grass from our Kamut. Wanna know how? Follow these directions.
You can use Kamut to make Rejuvelac. We prefer Rye, but any Grain can be used.
- 142 -
Quinoa
"Keen-Wah"
A 5,000 year old grain that produces super nutritious sprouts.
Seed to Sprout in 2-4 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 143 -
Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/4 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating them
all first.
Note: Quinoa - when sprouted very short - can make it in refrigeration for up to 2
weeks but if you can use 'em fresher we think you'll like them better.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
An ancient grain which has been cultivated for over 5000 years! It is the quickest of all
sprouts, prefering to soak for only 20-30 minutes and showing 2 roots per seed within
24 hours. Pronounced "Keen Wah".
Quinoa is the only sprout which contains every single amino-acid.
It is very beautiful as well as delicious.
Very nutritious. So small that you can add the to many a food!
- 144 -
Sesame
A fast sprout which, since small and tasty, can be added easily to many meals.
Seed to Sprout in 1-3 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 -4 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1 week
Nutritional info:
Vitamins B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
- 145 -
Description
Sesame is a small seed which makes a great, nutritious addition to many a meal sprinkle it on salads, sandwiches, stirfry, desserts, souffles - you name it - it is quite
inocuous due to its size and tenderness when sprouted.
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Black Sesame - new in 2007. When sprouted it is a beautiful Black and White (the
sprouts are white), like tiny dominos, or as I like to call it Sprouts Noir (Like Film Noir,
you know?;-)
These seeds have their hull on. Hulled Sesame won't sprout and the hull is insignificant
anyway.
Millet
A lovely tiny glossy seed that can be sprouted and added easily to many meals.
Seed to Sprout in 1-3 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 -4 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
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Depending on your climate and the time of year you are sprouting and most importantly
your personal preference - You may Rinse and Drain again at 8-12 hour intervals for
several days. However - we prefer to sprout only to the point where most of the seeds
have sprouted tiny (1/16 inch) roots, which is typically after just 2 or 3 Rinse and Drain
cycles.
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing indeed) so they'll digest themselves and nourish
your cells without requiring anything from your body!
Grow them for as long as you like (as long as you continue to Rinse and Drain every 812 hours) and find out for yourself when they are most delicious!
Experiment! Have Fun! It's All Good!
Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
A small beautiful round shiny seed, Millet is great in breads, as a mildly crunchy
addition to salads or anything else you can think of.
Millet is also a great sprout for birds!
Almond
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Known as a soak as opposed to a sprout because it is done before it's root appears,
which is good because you won't be able not to eat them!
Seed to Sprout in 1-2 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 1-2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium
All Essential Amino Acids
Protein: 20-25%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 2/3 Cup of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 4-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
Stop here unless you are doing a science experiment or growing an almond tree
seedling.
Note: Almond sprouts are not intended to germinate fully, their germ is meant to bulge
but not put out a root.
Also: You can skip that last Rinse and Drain without altering your crop at all!
As always, we suggest that you taste your crop at EVERY RINSE - including the very
first - just after the Soak period. The soaked seeds are already alive and though they
may not be their most nutritious they are still very nutritious - they are already without
enzyme inhibitors (a very good thing) so they'll digest themselves and nourish you.
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Harvest
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Refrigerate
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good too - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating
them all first.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Almond Sprouts are often called "soaks" because they swell rather than sprout,
producing only a tiny bulge at their germ instead of a root (sprout). Absolute heaven to
munch, though rather expensive. Almonds are THE most addictive of all sprouts - er,
soaks, so enjoy with caution.
Note: Almonds are best stored in a cool location - we keep ours in a freezer, but a
refrigerator works well too. If you plan on storing Almonds for more than 6 months you
should consider one of these cool locations. If you leave them at 70 they will likely last
for a year or 2, but they may not. Consider yourself warned =:-}
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Buckwheat Groats
Hulled Buckwheat
One of the quickest sprouts around - Groats are nutty, plump and extremely tender!
Seed to Sprout in 1-2 Days
Yield = 1.5:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 2 years
Sprout Shelf Life = 1-2 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium
All Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
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Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 4-8 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 4-8 hours.
And, possibly one more...
Rinse and Drain in 4-8 hours.
We like our sprouts small so we stop whenever they have the tiny tails we seek.
Your sprouts are done 8-12 hours after your final rinse. Be sure to Drain them as
thoroughly as possible after that final rinse.
The goal during the final 8-12 hours is to minimize the surface moisture of your sprouts
- they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch.
Transfer your sprout crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice glass is good - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating them
all first.
Note: Grains do not store well in refrigeration so you should try to grow just what you
need. It isn't actually that they store poorly, it is just that most grains are cool weather
crops, so though they slow down quite a bit, they continue to grow - even in the
refrigerator.
* If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag.
Remember that the yield will be approximately 1.5:1, so in theory you can start with as
much as 2/3 as much dry seed as your Sprouter has capacity.
Description
Groats refer to a hulled seed, in this case Buckwheat. They are one of the quickest
sprouts around - soak 'em for 1/2 hour, rinse a few times and you have sprouts in 24-48
hours. They are nutty, plump and extremely tender.
A great snack! A great Breakfast!
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Pumpkin
Pumpkin Note: I have to admit; I am almost sick of looking for sprouting pumpkin seeds. I have tested
more bad lots of pumpkin than any other seed - and I haven't seen a GREAT lot for over 5 years. The
difficulty is this: To sprout, we need to start with either Hulled or Naked (grown without a hull) seeds.
Naked are far preferable but Naked seeds are almost impossible to find. Hulled seeds often sprout poorly,
though I don't know why in this case. We need pumpkin for Madison Market Mix - otherwise I'd probably
stop carrying it. It works in the mix because there are very few pumpkin seeds relative to the other seeds.
But pumpkins are very nutritious and they are very tasty fresh - so - for solo sprouting we have this
solution: Grow them only 12-24 hours and eat them all at that stage - fresh. do not store the sprouts - they
keep poorly (even in a perfect world pumpkins are about as bad a keeper as any sprout). As with all edible
sprouting seeds - they are alive and super nutritious once soaked.
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 2/3 Cup of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 1-4 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
Note: Pumpkins tend to be a bit on the "dusty" side (it is a by product of the hulling
process) so rinse and rinse some more - until the water runs clear from your sprouter.
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Description
Pumpkins are a pretty high end sprouting seed. They are expensive and the finished
sprout is best eaten immediately. Pumpkins can sprout a nice little tail, but they may be
best as "Soaks" - where they don't really put out much more than a bulge at their germ
(tip). As we always suggest - taste them at every stage - right after soaking at again at
every rinse/drain - and see how you like them best. They are exceptional, buttery
flavored delights.
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Sunflower Sprouts
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately 1 Cup (1/2 lb.) of Sprouts
Prep 2/3 Cup of seed* then transfer (if necessary) into a bowl or into your
Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 1-4 hours.
Note: We prefer the results when we soak them for 1-2 hours - we are after the
crunchiest sprout we can get.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
Note: Sunnys tend to be a bit on the "dusty" side (it is a by product of the hulling
process) so rinse and rinse some more - until the water runs clear from your sprouter.
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
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Description
Hulled (out of shell) Sunnys are a very quick sprout. They soak for only a few hours and
are fully sprouted - usually - within 24 hours. They don't last long, but they taste so
good that that isn't usually a concern. Do not try to sprout them longer or store them
more than a day or so - they just don't do that. These are hard to find as the hulling
process usually results in a too high percentage of broken seeds. Eat them straight from
the sprouter, on salads, cereals or any place at all!
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- 157 -
Barley Grass
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields approximately as much grass (by weight) as grain planted
Planting Medium: We have grown Grass - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Grass! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than $5 (for a 40 pound
bag!) at any garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
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Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process.
When growing Grass: You really MUST Pre-Sprout it before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we
grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use
a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever
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makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked. Spread the wet pad
across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the surface
then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water (You
don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just
pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is
this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a
little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip
Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of grain and though some literature
will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from
years of experience and thousands of Trays of Grass grown that that is bunk! You will
learn for yourself that Grass produces a plant that takes up less room than the grain
did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree.
The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Grass then lessen
the amount of grain you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an
issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and
seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grass will grow very well in cooler temperatures also.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying the
sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet sprayer just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent grass will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water from the side
if possible, to prevent injuring the tender blades.
The Soilless alternative.
Baby Blanket will dry out more quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should
either water more often or experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
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Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just
leave as much water as the grass can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so
you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip
Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip
Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next
time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make it sound - it is
really a time saver and produces happier healthy grass.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, but the same method works for it: Use the
Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will eventually grow into this, so don't go crazy
- too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just leave as
much water as the grass and Vermiculite can drink in a day and then add more the
following day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're
growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2
cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12
hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then
cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make
it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happier healthy grass. Use Kelpman
too. We probably give more water than is necessary, but we end up with great crops and
the grass keeps growing even after we cut it - even if we don't add water daily.
Vermiculite is great stuff!
Uncover your Grass
Wait 3-4 days until it is 1-2 inches tall or until it pushes the covering tray up (it really
will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Grass
(If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea for grass) be prepared to do more
watering). Keep it moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch it grow. It takes
about 10 days to get to....
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil/medium when the Grass is 6 or more inches tall (actually
height is just a matter of yield - you can cut it any time you want to).
Note: We believe that you will get the best flavor and nutrition from freshly cut Grass.
We cut JUST prior to juicing and we feel the difference! But, you are better off juicing
week old Grass than no Grass at all, so do what you must! Drink More Juice!
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
- 161 -
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grass can produce a 2nd and even 3rd crop so you may continue to water the
Tray after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and more so the 3rd crop is not as tender nor
usually as big, but it is good to try growing at least a 2nd crop. Decide for yourself if it
is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium if you want to go for multiple cuttings!
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Cups Dry Grain for a 4-5 inch square Tray.
1-2 Cups dry grain for an 11 inch square Tray.
2-4 Cups dry grain for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual blades of grass. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies.
This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. If you are consuming this as juice just rinse it off when you harvest the grass. If you hate it - increase air flow by planting
less seed. Additionally, you may move your grass to a better ventilated area. In summer
we grow our grass outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air
circulation.
Description
A broad blade grass with a lighter green color than wheat, Barley Grass is consumed by
many people in the form of a capsule called "Barley Green". The juice is a much more
potent food - as are all fresh foods. The juice is quite intense - flavor wise, so we advise
that you mix it with other grains to come up with your tastiest juice. That is a
completely subjective decision - some of you might love straight Barley Grass Juice but around here we like to mix it into our Wheat at a rate of about 5:1 (20% Barley).
The Grasses all provide about the same nutrition so mix and match freely.
We do not grow hydroponic Grass - we've tried but have never gotten the yields we get
with soil. Now that we have a soilless medium (Baby Blanket) we are even less
interested in hydroponic growing, but there is a plus to hydroponic Grass - you can juice
the entire crop - grains, roots and grass, so if you want to try - go for it! Go to Val at Go
Green - she is the meister of hydroponic Grass. Tell her The Sproutpeople sent you!
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Oat Grass
you may prefer one method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to
try. Instructions are pretty much the same in all cases, but where there is a
difference we include purple text like this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Grass! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than $5 (for a 40
pound bag!) at any garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your
choice - always.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite
your Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold
some water at times in the growing process.
When growing Grass: You really MUST Pre-Sprout it before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 1-4 hours.
Note: Oats can get waterlogged if soaked too long. We know from experience that 4
hours is about the limit if you want a good crop of Grass, but less is better.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant.
This is typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more
soil you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the
way down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you
don't have to do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when
we grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the
liquid - use a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or
do whatever makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked.
- 164 -
Spread the wet pad across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of
it. We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If
you're using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the
surface then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched
water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without
soil.) so we just pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The
amount of liquid is this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You
don't want more than a little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains
above the ridges of the Drip Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of grain and though some
literature will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have
found from years of experience and thousands of Trays of Grass grown that that is
bunk! You will learn for yourself that Grass produces a plant that takes up less
room than the grain did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop
each other to some degree. The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal
problems in your Grass then lessen the amount of grain you plant. The hotter/more
humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need
to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is
really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grass will grow very well in cooler temperatures also.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying
the sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet
sprayer - just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they
bury their roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds
and subsequent grass will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water
from the side if possible, to prevent injuring the tender blades.
The Soilless alternative.
Baby Blanket will dry out more quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you
should either water more often or experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems.
Just leave as much water as the grass can drink in a day and then add more the
following day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're
growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 12 cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and
12 hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours
later then cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as
- 165 -
risky as we make it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happier healthy
grass.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it
is not nearly as important for you.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, but the same method works for it: Use
the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will eventually grow into this, so don't
go crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems.
Just leave as much water as the grass and Vermiculite can drink in a day and then
add more the following day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity
especially) you're growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest
that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much
is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still
water 24 hours later then cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really,
and not as risky as we make it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happier
healthy grass. Use Kelpman too. We probably give more water than is necessary, but
we end up with great crops and the grass keeps growing even after we cut it - even if
we don't add water daily. Vermiculite is great stuff!
Uncover your Grass
Wait 3-4 days until it is 1-2 inches tall or until it pushes the covering tray up (it
really will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Grass
(If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea for grass) be prepared to do more
watering). Keep it moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch it grow. It takes
about 10 days to get to....
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil/medium when the Grass is 6 or more inches tall
(actually height is just a matter of yield - you can cut it any time you want to).
Note: We believe that you will get the best flavor and nutrition from freshly cut
Grass. We cut JUST prior to juicing and we feel the difference! But, you are better
off juicing week old Grass than no Grass at all, so do what you must! Drink More
Juice!
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the
soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grass can produce a 2nd and even 3rd crop so you may continue to water the
Tray after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and more so the 3rd crop is not as tender
nor usually as big, but it is good to try growing at least a 2nd crop. Decide for
yourself if it is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium if you want to go for
multiple cuttings!
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or
similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Cups Dry Grain for a 4-5 inch square Tray.
1-2 Cups dry grain for an 11 inch square Tray.
2-4 Cups dry grain for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
- 166 -
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual blades of grass. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies.
This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. If you are consuming this as
juice - just rinse it off when you harvest the grass. If you hate it - increase air flow
by planting less seed. Additionally, you may move your grass to a better ventilated
area. In summer we grow our grass outside (from the point when we uncover the
tray) for optimal air circulation.
Description
These are raw (no heat has ever been applied) Hulless Oats (sometimes mistakenly
called groats). Favored by many a cat and human, Oats are a wonderfully tender
grain which grows a grass with a mild sweetness. Oats grow Grass a bit more slowly
than most other grains.
Easy to grow and seriously rejuvinating when ingested. Nutritionally Oats are
extremely close to Wheat Grass, the Juice of which has a very intense flavor. We've
been drinking it since the 1970s and have found that we enjoy it more now than ever
- since we got a Green Life juicer we mix our grass juice with carrot and apple juice
- it is delicious!
You need a special juicer to extract the nectar from this grass - it is well worth the
effort! Look on our Juicer page for more info.
We do not grow hydroponic Grass - we've tried but have never gotten the yields we
get with soil. Now that we have a soilless alternatives (Baby Blanket and
Vermiculite) we are even less interested in hydroponic growing, but there is a plus to
hydroponic Grass - you can juice the entire crop - grains, roots and grass, so if you
want to try - go for it! Go to Val at Go Green - she is the meister of hydroponic
Grass. Tell her the Sproutpeople sent you!
Hulless Raw Nebraska Oats
Oats continue to be in very short supple due to the horrible crop years our farmers
have had since 2002 - so the price is very very high. We pray 2004 will be easier for
farmers.
- 167 -
Flax
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately as many micro-greens (by weight) as seed "planted"
The Basics
Thoroughly moisten that upon which you are going to grow.
If using a Hemp Bag or a small bit of Baby Blanket or similar medium - lay it on a
plate or in a pan or something so that you don't end up watering your counter. Likewise,
if using a Tray, put it on a plate or in a solid (Drip) tray to capture water runoff.
- 168 -
- 169 -
inch of room between seeds is the goal, but don't sweat it, there is no way you can do
that even close to exactly - it is just a goal!).
* The first time you grow these you might consider giving quite a bit of space to each
seed just to familiarize yourself with the plants' habit
Description
A mildly spicy, very tender Green grows from this mucilaginous seed. Another Micro-Green
which is perfect grown upon a Hemp Bag, the Miniature Garden Sprouter or Baby Blanket,
our new soilless planting medium.
Desired by many for nutrtional qualities of the seed, it is often used for teas which aid
intestinal health, added to cereals, breads or just ground up in healthy drinks. Whether you
are growing Flax or just looking for seed to eat - these are beautiful seeds!
Spelt Grass
Hulled Spelt
Another awesome beverage Grass with nutritional value very similar to that of
Wheat!
Note: This is the same seed we sell for Spelt Sprouts.
Seed to Grass in 6 - 9 Days
Yield = 1:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 1.5 - 3 years
Grass Shelf Life = 1 week
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, E and K
Calcium, Chlorophyll, Iron, Lecithin, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus, Potassium
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: up to 30%
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields approximately as much grass (by weight) as grain planted
- 170 -
Planting Medium: We have grown Grass - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Grass! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than $5 (for a 40 pound
bag!) at any garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process.
When growing Grass: You really MUST Pre-Sprout it before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
- 171 -
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we
grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use
a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever
makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked. Spread the wet pad
across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the surface
then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water (You
don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just
pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is
this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a
little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip
Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of grain and though some literature
will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from
years of experience and thousands of Trays of Grass grown that that is bunk! You will
learn for yourself that Grass produces a plant that takes up less room than the grain
did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree.
The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Grass then lessen
the amount of grain you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an
issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and
seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grass will grow very well in cooler temperatures also.
- 172 -
- 173 -
watering). Keep it moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch it grow. It takes
about 10 days to get to....
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil/medium when the Grass is 6 or more inches tall (actually
height is just a matter of yield - you can cut it any time you want to).
Note: We believe that you will get the best flavor and nutrition from freshly cut Grass.
We cut JUST prior to juicing and we feel the difference! But, you are better off juicing
week old Grass than no Grass at all, so do what you must! Drink More Juice!
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grass can produce a 2nd and even 3rd crop so you may continue to water the
Tray after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and more so the 3rd crop is not as tender nor
usually as big, but it is good to try growing at least a 2nd crop. Decide for yourself if it
is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium if you want to go for multiple cuttings!
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Cups Dry Grain for a 4-5 inch square Tray.
1-2 Cups dry grain for an 11 inch square Tray.
2-4 Cups dry grain for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual blades of grass. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies.
This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. If you are consuming this as juice just rinse it off when you harvest the grass. If you hate it - increase air flow by planting
less seed. Additionally, you may move your grass to a better ventilated area. In summer
we grow our grass outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air
circulation.
Description
Spelt is one seed which we carry only occasionally as it is very hard to find good
sprouting Spelt. A great alternative for those allergic to Wheat and similar to other
grasses in sweetness and nutritional value. This Grain is hulled by a farmer who
developed his own method. It is the finest hulled Grain we've ever seen - it sprouts so
well one would think it had grown without a hull in the field.
- 174 -
Easy to grow and seriously rejuvinating when ingested. Nutritionally Spelt is extremely
close to Wheat Grass, the Juice of which has a very intense flavor. We've been drinking
it since the 1970s and have found that we enjoy it more now than ever - since we got a
Green Life juicer we mix our grass juice with carrot and apple juice - it is delicious!
You need a special juicer to extract the nectar from this grass - it is well worth the
effort! Look on our Juicer page for more info.
We do not grow hydroponic Grass - we've tried but have never gotten the yields we get
with soil. Now that we have soilless mediums (Baby Blanket and Vermiculite) we are
even less interested in hydroponic growing, but there is a plus to hydroponic Grass you can juice the entire crop - grains, roots and grass, so if you want to try - go for it!
Go to Val at Go Green - she is the meister of hydroponic Grass. Tell her us Sproutpeople
sent you!
- 175 -
Triticale Grass
Another awesome beverage Grass with nutritional value very similar to that of
Wheat and Rye!
Note: This is the same seed we sell for Triticale Sprouts.
Seed to Grass in 6 - 9 Days
Yield = 1:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 1.5 - 3 years
Grass Shelf Life = 1 week
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C, E and K
Calcium, Chlorophyll, Iron, Lecithin, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus, Potassium
Amino Acids
Trace Elements
Protein: up to 30%
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields approximately as much grass (by weight) as grain planted
Planting Medium: We have grown Grass - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Grass! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than $5 (for a 40 pound
bag!) at any garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always.
- 176 -
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process.
When growing Grass: You really MUST Pre-Sprout it before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we
- 177 -
grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use
a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever
makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked. Spread the wet pad
across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the surface
then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water (You
don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just
pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is
this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a
little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip
Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of grain and though some literature
will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from
years of experience and thousands of Trays of Grass grown that that is bunk! You will
learn for yourself that Grass produces a plant that takes up less room than the grain
did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree.
The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Grass then lessen
the amount of grain you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an
issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and
seasonal conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grass will grow very well in cooler temperatures also.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying the
sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet sprayer just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent grass will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water from the side
if possible, to prevent injuring the tender blades.
- 178 -
- 179 -
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Grass can produce a 2nd and even 3rd crop so you may continue to water the
Tray after you cut your first crop. The 2nd and more so the 3rd crop is not as tender nor
usually as big, but it is good to try growing at least a 2nd crop. Decide for yourself if it
is worth it! Vermiculite is the best medium if you want to go for multiple cuttings!
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Cups Dry Grain for a 4-5 inch square Tray.
1-2 Cups dry grain for an 11 inch square Tray.
2-4 Cups dry grain for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual blades of grass. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies.
This is not a problem, except that it is unattractive. If you are consuming this as juice just rinse it off when you harvest the grass. If you hate it - increase air flow by planting
less seed. Additionally, you may move your grass to a better ventilated area. In summer
we grow our grass outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air
circulation.
Description
Triticale is a fairly new grain - created about 100 years ago. A combo of wheat and rye,
it is similar in taste and like other grasses very nutritious. This years crop is particularly
awesome.
We've been drinking grass juice it since the 1970s and have found that we enjoy it more
now than ever - since we got a Green Life juicer we mix our grass juice with carrot and
apple juice - it is delicious!
You need a special juicer to extract the nectar from this grass - it is well worth the
effort! Look on our Juicer page for more info.
We do not grow hydroponic Grass - we've tried but have never gotten the yields we get
with soil. Now that we have soilless mediums (Baby Blanket and Vermiculite) we are
even less interested in hydroponic growing, but there is a plus to hydroponic Grass you can juice the entire crop - grains, roots and grass, so if you want to try - go for it!
- 180 -
Go to Val at Go Green - she is the meister of hydroponic Grass. Tell her us Sproutpeople
sent you!
- 181 -
The most famous of the Greens is Sunflower. Often called Sunnys, they are a staple of
Ann Wigmore's living diet - they are very nutritious (as is everything in sproutville),
amazingly tasty, tender and beautiful too! Sunnys require a bit more work than other
Greens, but they are well worth the effort.
Greens are a good deal different than Sprouts - they are really gorgeous, but they are a
bit more work. For that reason we suggest that you start with Sprouts if you are new to
all of this, but it's your life, don't let us push you around.
Many more seeds than are listed here can be grown into Greens. Among the obvious
choices are Lentils and Garbanzos which both produce beautiful tasty plants. For now
we just list those we have grown and sold for years, but as we always say - think for
yourself. Experiment!
- 182 -
Buckwheat Lettuce
Very tender thin shoots with cute, and outrageously tender leaves
and quite attractive red tinged stems.
Seed to Green in 5 - 6 Days
Yield = 1:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 4 - 5 years
Greens Shelf Life = 1 week maximum
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, and C
Calcium, Chlorophyll, Iron, Lecithin, Potassium
Amino Acids
Protein: 15%
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields vary depending on method used, climate and technique.
Planting Medium: We have grown Greens - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Greens. We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure for everything else, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than
$5 (for 40-50 pounds) at any garden center (depending on the general cost of living
where you are of course). You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always. The deal is this - Greens (garden Greens anyway) are aided by the presence of
the nutrient Nitrogen, in the soil. Nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for plant growth
(a very good thing when growing lettuce or spinach, but too much nitrogen is bad if
growing peas or tomatoes or any plant where the fruit is what we want, as opposed to
the plant itself). Manures come in various strengths depending on the animal that
originally produced it. Too much nitrogen will burn plants - literally burn them - hence
the word HOT is used in reference to nitrogen. The higher the nitrogen content the
- 183 -
HOTTER the manure (or fertilizer) is considered. Cow manure is the least hot - it is
perfect for our needs - it supplies the growing plants with a little extra boost. Chicken
and other bird manures are much hotter and Worm castings are hotter still (worm
castings are worm manure). The catch is this: Greens, Grass and Sprouts are almost all
too young to benefit from nitrogen, because for the most part every seed has all the
nutrients it needs to grow to the cotyledon stage - which is all we do with any of our
seeds. So - though it is contradictory, it is our experience that nitrogen does help
Greens and Grass. Like we always say - EXPERIMENT FOR YOURSELF. In any case a little nitrogen can't hurt.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process. (You'll see the TIP below - keep reading.)
When growing Greens: You really MUST Pre-Sprout before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
For some reason Buckwheat Lettuce sprouts very unevenly. We plant the seeds when
some (as opposed to most) sprouts reach 1/4 inch in length. This is typically after just 23 Rinse and Drain cycles. They catch up for the most part and if you wait for more
sprouts to reach 1/4 inch, there will be many that are too ong and will never grow
plants (because they won't be able to bury their roots).
Planting
- 184 -
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow
without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use a pot
or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever makes
sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUGHLY soaked. Spread the wet pad across the
bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another size tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the
surface then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water
(You don't NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just pour it
on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is this: a
little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a little left
in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip Tray.
Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil/medium.
We use a lot of seeds and though some literature will tell you that your seeds should not
ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of
pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! You will learn for yourself that some Greens
(like these) produce a plant that takes up less room than the seed and so, to maximize
your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree. The thing to watch is
this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the amount of seed
you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus
is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And
learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location. 70 is always optimal but these
Greens will grow very well in cooler or slightly warmer temperatures also.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
- 185 -
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying the
sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet sprayer just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent Greens will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water from the
side if possible, to prevent injuring the tender Plants.
The Soilless alternative.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, while Baby Blanket will dry out more
quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should either water more often or
experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just
leave as much water as the Greens can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so
you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip
Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip
Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next
time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make it sound - it is
really a time saver and produces happier healthy Greens.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Uncover your Greens
Wait 3-4 days until they are 1-2 inches tall or until they push the covering tray up (it
really will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Greens (If you use direct sunlight (a very
good idea for Greens) be prepared to do more watering). Keep the soil/medium moist
by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch them grow.
Harvest
When the plants are about 2-4 inches tall and have green leaves - by cutting the plants
just above soil or mediums surface.
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Greens - they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
- 186 -
Note: Greens can produce a 2nd (smaller) crop so you may continue to water the Tray
after you cut your first crop. Any crop after the first will be prone to fungal growth and
the quality will be likely diminished, but it can't hurt to try once.
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 cup for a 5" square Tray.
1-1 1/2 cup for an 11" square Tray.
2-3 Cups for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: We use a lot of Seeds and though some literature will tell you that your
seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and
thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! The thing to watch is this: If
you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the amount of seed you
plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As
always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as
you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Description
Whole. In Hull. These Greens which are often called Buckwheat Lettuce, are (pre)
sprouted (as are almost all Greens) for a couple days (a 1/4 inch sprout is optimal), then
planted on soil or similar medium, kept moist for 5 - 7 days to produce very tender thin
shoots with cute, and outrageously tender leaves and red tinged stems. Very easy to
grow. A staple of Ann Wigmore's living sprout kitchen.
- 187 -
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately as many micro-greens (by weight) as seed "planted"
These seeds will benefit from Soaking and a tiny bit of Pre-Sprouting prior to
planting. You don't have to soak them but it will help produce a better crop if you
do.
Grow these on soil or Baby Blanket (soilless medium) in a Tray, on a Hemp Bag, a
Miniature Garden or on virtually any moisture retaining medium (as minimal as paper
towel or fabric - like cheesecloth) you can think of.
Pre-Sprouting
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
- 188 -
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a very small root before planting. However many Rinse and
Drain cycles it takes to get 1/16th - 1/8 inch roots is how long you should PreSprout.
Planting
Whether you have soaked, pre-sprouted or are starting with dry seed, this is the way to
proceed:
Thoroughly moisten that upon which you are going to grow.
If using a Hemp Bag or a small bit of Baby Blanket or similar medium - lay it on a
plate or in a pan or something so that you don't end up watering your counter. Likewise,
if using a Tray, put it on a plate or in a solid (Drip) tray to capture water runoff.
Spread seeds sparsely on your thoroughly moistened medium/sprouter.
(there should be a bit of space around each seed but you are not expected to place them
one at a time - just spread them out as much as you can and as evenly as you can*)
You may cover your seeds:
If planting on soil in a Tray use another tray - up side down.
If using a Miniature Garden you can slide the tray into the central unit for the first 2-3
days.
If using a Hemp Bag or similar medium - be creative.
It is not mandatory when growing Micro-Greens to cover them at all. Experiment for
yourself and see what works best in your climate/location.
Place your Micro-Garden in a low-light, room temperature location (70 is
optimal).
Keep the medium/sprouter moist - but not soggy - by watering or misting every
day or two.
When your plants grow up and begin to shed their hulls they are ready for light so
move them (if necessary) to a well lighted location.
If you go with sunlight be prepared to water more frequently. Room light will usually do
quite nicely as well and will not dry out your medium as quickly.
Keep the medium/sprouter moist but not soggy by watering regularly.
Water from the side if possible to prevent injuring the tiny plants.
When your plants have open leaves which are green, they are done.
Harvest by cutting just above the medium upon which they have grown.
- 189 -
During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface moisture of your plants - they will
store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch. So if you water try to keep the
water off the plants - just water the medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator - if you can keep from eating them all
first.
* Dry Seed Volume
Note: If using Single Harvest Pack and a Miniature Garden use the whole bag on 1 tray.
2 Tablespoons for our little 5 tray.
1/3 - 1/2 Cup for an 11 square tray.
2/3 - 1 cup for an 11 x 22 inch tray.
The first time you grow these you might consider giving quite a bit of space to each
seed just to familiarize yourself with the plants' habit.
Note:
You can also grow Cabbage Patch using conventional sprouting methods as described
on our Cabbage page.
Description
A combination of 2 different cabbage varieties (more if we have more in stock) grown on soil,
Baby Blanket or similar medium, Miniature Garden or a horizontal Hemp Bag, for their very
tender greens.
- 190 -
Pea Shoots
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields 1-2 pounds per 11x22 inch tray.
Planting Medium: We have grown Pea Shoots - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we
now have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and
organic liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that
you soak before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact
medium we know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely,
dispenses added nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you
should try all of them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you
may prefer one method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try.
Instructions are pretty much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we
include purple text like this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Shoots. We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure for everything else, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than
$5 (for 40-50 pounds) at any garden center (depending on the general cost of living
where you are of course). You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice always. The deal is this - Greens (garden Greens anyway) are aided by the presence of
the nutrient Nitrogen, in the soil. Nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for plant growth
(a very good thing when growing lettuce or spinach, but too much nitrogen is bad if
growing peas (except if growing for Shoots) or tomatoes or any plant where the fruit is
what we want, as opposed to the plant itself). Manures come in various strengths
depending on the animal that originally produced it. Too much nitrogen will burn plants
- literally burn them - hence the word HOT is used in reference to nitrogen. The higher
the nitrogen content the HOTTER the manure (or fertilizer) is considered. Cow manure
- 191 -
is the least hot - it is perfect for our needs - it supplies the growing plants with a little
extra boost. Chicken and other bird manures are much hotter and Worm castings are
hotter still (worm castings are worm manure). The catch is this: Greens/Shoots, Grass
and Sprouts are almost all too young to benefit from nitrogen, because for the most part
every seed has all the nutrients it needs to grow to the cotyledon stage - which is all we
do with any of our seeds. So - though it is contradictory, it is our experience that
nitrogen does help Greens and Grass. Like we always say - EXPERIMENT FOR
YOURSELF. In any case - a little nitrogen can't hurt.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process. (You'll see the TIP below - keep reading.)
When growing Pea Shoots: You really MUST Pre-Sprout before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the peas have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
- 192 -
- 193 -
just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent Greens/Shoots will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water
from the side if possible, to prevent injuring the tender Plants - though Pea Shoots ARE
the strongest of Greens, so they won't fall over nearly as easily.
The Soilless alternative.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, while Baby Blanket will dry out more
quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should either water more often or
experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just
leave as much water as the Shoots can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so
you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip
Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip
Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next
time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make it sound - it is
really a time saver and produces happier healthy Shoots.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Uncover your Shoots
Wait 3-4 days until they are 1-2 inches tall or until they push the covering tray up (it
really will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Shoots (If you use direct sunlight (a very
good idea for Greens/Shoots) be prepared to do more watering). Keep the soil/medium
moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch them grow.
Harvest
When the Shoots are about 2-4 inches tall and have green leaves - by cutting the plants
just above soil or mediums surface.
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Shoots - they will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the
touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the soil/medium.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
Note: Shoots can produce a 2nd (smaller) crop but they are much too tough. Plant a
new crop
- 194 -
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/2 Cup for a 5" square Tray.
1-1 1/2 Cup for an 11" square Tray.
2-3 Cups for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: We use a lot of Seeds and though some literature will tell you that your
seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and
thousands of pounds of Greens/Shoots grown that that is bunk!
Description
Grown from virtually any Pea variety, Shoots are the plant above the soil. Snow Peas are a
popular type of pea to use, but are difficult to find consistently. We currently use our
Speckled Peas as they produce a robust, tender Shoot in 8 - 14 days (depending on your
climate and time of year). Really excellent stir-fried quickly with some garlic and tamari (soy
sauce) and (optionally) ginger.
Note: You can grow shoots from any pea. They all have different characteristics so
experiment. Taste is a very subjective thing, so try them all =:-)
- 195 -
Popcorn Shoots
Red Popcorn
NOTE: The Popcorn we are selling came (from our farmer friends in
Nebraska) with Diatomaceous Earth, which is an approved
organic pest control. The D.E. is powder, so the bags of seed don't
look so great, but there are no insects and the Corn Shoots are as
good as ever.
Extremely sweet and tender, these shoots are gaining popularity in fine US
restraunts.
They have been used for years in Europe!
Seed to Green in 8 - 12 Days
Yield = 1:1
Seed Shelf Life at 70 = 3 years
Greens Shelf Life = 1 - 3 weeks
Nutritional info:
Vitamins A, B, C and E
Calcium, Chlorophyll, Iron, Lecithin, Magnesium, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus, Potassium
Trace Elements
Protein: up to 30%
Sprouting Instructions
Yields approximately as weight in Greens as popcorn planted
We have grown Greens - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now have an
alternative: A Soilless medium (Baby Blanket) and organic liquid kelp fertilizer
(Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that holds moisture and in general
acts much like soil. We think you should try both if you can - there are differences and
though they are minimal you may prefer one method over the other and the only way to
know for sure is to try both.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for these! We use sterile bagged composted cow
manure, but any sterile bagged soil will do and should cost less than five dollars at any
garden center. You can use expensive soil if you prefer - it is your choice - always!
Tray Note: Your planting tray (the one with the soil in it) MUST have drainage holes or
slits! Nothing will grow in soil that can not drain - that condition is commonly called
- 196 -
"flooded". When using Baby Blanket your planting tray must also have drainage, but
we do use the drip tray to hold some water at times in the growing process.
When growing Greens: You MUST Pre-Sprout the seed before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 10-12 hours.
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants grow
they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil you
use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
The Soilless alternative.
There really is very little different about growing greens with Baby Blanket - for the
most part the instructions are identical. Where there are differences they will be noted
in purple text. Here are the first differences:
- 197 -
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for Popcorn Shoots, but we use it
when we grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the
liquid - use a pot or something similar to hold it). Spread the wet pad accross the
bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed as with soil...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil.
We use a lot of popcorn and though some literature will tell you that your seeds should
not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of
Trays of Greens grown that that is bunk! The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or
fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the amount of seed you plant. The
hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always,
you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might encounter mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
(70 is always optimal)
Water lightly every day or two
the goal is to keep the seeds moist (as with any sprouts) until their roots bury
themselves in the soil - at which point your goal is to keep the soil moist.
Uncover your Greens
Wait 3-4 days until your Shoots are 2-3 inches tall or until they push the covering tray
up (they really will do that - it is cool!)
Note: If you want the tenderest shoots possible you should stop now. These yellow
shoots are refered to as Blanched. They look really cool, don't they!? If you want to stop
here skip to the Harvest step.
Water
Every day - from the side if possible, to prevent injuring the tender shoots.
The Soilless alternative.
Baby Blanket will dry out more quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should
either water more often or experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just
leave as much water as the Greens can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in, so
you'll have to learn this for yourself. We will suggest that you start with 1 cup in the
Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the
Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the
- 198 -
next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make it sound - it is
really a time saver and produces happier healthier greens.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Move to a well lit location to Green your Shoots
(If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea) be prepared to do more watering). Keep it
moist. Watch them grow.
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil or medium, when the Shoots are done.
Note: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface moisture of your Shoots - they
will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry to the touch. So if you water try to
keep the water off the plants - just water the soil.
Transfer your crop to a plastic bag or the sealed container of your choice - glass is
good - and put them in your refrigerator.
* Note: If using Single Harvest Pack use the whole bag on our 5 inch tray (or similar).
Or Use:
1/4-1/3 Ccup for a 5" square Tray.
1-2 Cups for an 11" square Tray.
2-4 Cups for for an 11 inch x 22 inch Tray.
The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom
of your sprouter so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.
Once again: The more densely you plant the seed the less air circulates around the
individual shoots. This can cause some fungal growth - we call it fuzzies. This is not
a problem, except that it is unattractive. You can usually just rinse it off when you
harvest the shoots. If you hate it - increase air flow by planting less seed. Additionally,
you may move your Shoots to a better ventilated area. In summer we grow our them
outside (from the point when we uncover the tray) for optimal air flow.
Description
Used for many years in European cuisine, Popcorn Shoots are rapidly gaining
popularity in fine US restraunts. The shoots are amazingly sweet! They are most tender
when light is withheld - this is called Blanching. Popcorn Shoots are not for everyone.
They are easy to grow but their sweetness is intense. They are very cool looking and
make a garnish for any dish!
- 199 -
Sunflower Greens
Sprouting Instructions
How much you soak depends on the area you are planting - see here.
Yields vary depending on method used, temperature and technique. We could get 2-3 pounds of
Sunflower Greens from an 11x22 inch tray.
Planting Medium: We have grown Greens - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now
have two alternatives: Soilless mediums Baby Blanket and Vermiculite, and organic
liquid kelp fertilizer (Kelpman). Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that you soak
before planting upon. It holds moisture and is the least messy and compact medium we
know of. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds moisture supremely, dispenses added
nutrients over time and in general acts much like soil. We think you should try all of
them if you can - there are differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one
method over the other and the only way to know for sure is to try. Instructions are pretty
much the same in all cases, but where there is a difference we include purple text like
this.
Soil Note: Virtually any soil will do for Greens, BUT - for Sunflower Greens we
ALWAYS ADD Earthworm Castings (20-30% castings maximum in the soil mix). We
know from vast experience that the crop grows more evenly, sheds hulls better, grows
faster and even tastes better when worm castings are added! We use sterile bagged
composted cow manure for everything else, but any sterile bagged soil will do and
should cost less than $5 (for 40-50 pounds) at any garden center (depending on the
general cost of living where you are of course). You can use expensive soil if you prefer
- it is your choice - always. The deal is this - Greens (garden Greens anyway) are aided
by the presence of the nutrient Nitrogen, in the soil. Nitrogen is the nutrient responsible
for plant growth (a very good thing when growing lettuce or spinach, but too much
nitrogen is bad if growing peas or tomatoes or any plant where the fruit is what we
want, as opposed to the plant itself). Manures come in various strengths depending on
- 200 -
the animal that originally produced it. Too much nitrogen will burn plants - literally
burn them - hence the word HOT is used in reference to nitrogen. The higher the
nitrogen content the HOTTER the manure (or fertilizer) is considered. Cow manure is
the least hot - it is perfect for our needs - it supplies the growing plants with a little
extra boost. Worm castings are Very Hot (worm castings are worm manure) - so we use
them sparingly and only in the case of Sunflower Greens. The catch is this: Greens,
Grass and Sprouts are almost all too young to benefit from nitrogen, because for the
most part every seed has all the nutrients it needs to grow to the cotyledon stage - which
is all we do with any of our seeds. So - though it is contradictory, it is our experience
that nitrogen does help Greens and Grass. Like we always say - EXPERIMENT FOR
YOURSELF. In any case - a little nitrogen can't hurt.
Tray Note: Your Planting Tray (the one with the soil or medium in it) MUST have
drainage holes or slits! Nothing will grow in a medium that can not drain - that
condition is commonly called "flooded". When using Baby Blanket or Vermiculite your
Planting Tray must also have drainage, but we do use the Drip Tray to hold some water
at times in the growing process. (You'll see the TIP below - keep reading.)
When growing Greens: You really MUST Pre-Sprout before planting.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed* into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
Note: Sunflower seeds in their shell will FLOAT. You MUST weigh them down when
soaking or they won't all take up water. We use a plate that rests right on top of the
seeds in the bowl or bucket in which we soak, but the easiest of all methods for the
home grower is to use a jar with a lid. Put your seeds in and fill the jar to the brim with
water, screw on the lid and presto - all of your seeds are submerged!
Empty the seeds into your sprouter if necessary.
Drain off the soak water.
Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70) water
and Drain thoroughly.
Set anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70 is optimal)
between Rinses.
Rinse and Drain again in 8-12 hours.
And, perhaps one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
And, conceivably one more...
Rinse and Drain in 8-12 hours.
The goal is to have a small root before planting.
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When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots it is time to plant. This is
typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.
Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Remember to add 20-30% Earthworm Castings to your base soil for the best possible
crop!
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow
without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use a pot
or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever makes
sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUGHLY soaked. Spread the wet pad across the
bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another size tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the
surface then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water
(You don't NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just pour it
on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is this: a
little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a little left
in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip Tray.
Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil/medium.
We use a lot of Sunflowers and though some literature will tell you that your seeds
should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and
thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! You will learn for yourself that
some Greens (like these) produce a plant that takes up less room than the seed
(sunflower seeds are in fact going to grow all the way to the top of the crop, rising on
tender stalks, and be shed to display 2 lovely leaves which are the meat of the seed
transformed into the plant. This is dicot seed at its most illustrative!) and so to
maximize your yield your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree. The thing to
watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the
amount of seed you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue
the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal
conditions. And learn as you go - this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
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Description
Greens grown from Sunflowers are surprisingly delicious. If you don't feel you know us
well enough to believe it, just look under your bird feeder in summertime for a sorta
thick stemmed plant about 4-6" tall, with 2 leaves on top. Pick it off above the soil and
eat it ..... See? Great aren't they?!
We have claimed for years, that Sunnys need to be planted on soil with 20-30%
Earthworm Castings to achieve their full (awesome!) potential in flavor and vigor, but
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we now have two soilless alternatives! A soilless medium called Baby Blanket, and the
amazingly retentive Vermiculite, when used in conjunction with a liquid fertilizer, like
Kelpman (an organic kelp concentrate), produces wonderful Greens without the mess of
soil. Every plant we've grown using this soilless method has turned out wonderfully,
though Sunnys still seem a bit tastier to us when grown using the conventional soil
method. That may be due to our hard headedness, but in any case - Sunnys grown with
either of these methods works very well and produces a very delicious crop.
We do not like the flavor of hydroponic (grown using nothing but water) Sunnys - we
find them virtually tasteless and quite watery - but - if you just don't care what we think
(good for you!) and you are determined to grow these with nothing but water, then go to
Val at Go Green - she is the meister of hydroponic Greens. Tell her those Sproutpeople
sent you!
Nursery Trays
aka Flats
About Trays
Sproutpeople produced over 200 tons of sprouts, Grasses and Greens between 1993 2003, using Trays like these. There is little need for a home sprouter to grow amounts of
sprouts so great that Trays would make sense, but we will be adding information on our
SproutGarden site in the future (we've been saying that for years now, but we REALLY
will get to it - or writing a book - eventually), for small wholesale and farmer's market
growers, which will include methods of growing sprouts in Trays and Buckets. For now,
these Trays are not a good choice for sprouts because their drainage slits are poorly
layed out. They are just swell for Grass and Greens though.
We have grown Grass and Greens - on soil - in Trays, for years. But, we now have
alternatives: Soilless Planting media- Baby Blanket, Vermiculite- and organic liquid
kelp fertilizer - Kelpman. Baby Blanket is a thin organic material that holds moisture
and in general acts much like soil. Vermiculite is a mineral that is heated to 1,600 and
then expands in a worm (verm) like shape, into an extremely light planting medium that
has remarkable moisture retention. We think you should try both if you can - there are
differences and though they are minimal you may prefer one method over the other and
the only way to know for sure is to try both. You can also use both together - Baby
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Blanket on the bottom of the tray and Vermiculite atop it. In either case you definitely
should use Kelpman - it can make a whole lot of difference!
You can use any soil you like for most crops. We used sterile bagged composted cow
manure for all of our crops. We add about 20% Earthworm Castings when growing
Sunflower Greens. You can use any sterile soil you like - or can get. Though expensive
soils are fine, we prefer inexpensive 40 pound bags of sterile cow manure. Whatever
you choose - be sure it is free of chemicals!
Each 11x22 inch tray will grow 1-3 pounds of Greens or produce enough
grass to yield 10-20 ounces of Juice!
Growing Capacity
See seed information pages for details.
Eat More Sprouts + Grow More Often - Easily!
Earthworm Castings
Earthworm Castings are a necessary ingredient in the growing of Sunflower Greens.
They offer more nitrogen to the growing plants which dramatically improves the quality
of the crop - the Sunnys grow more rapidly, more evenly and shed their hulls more
readily. Use no more than 30% worm castings in your soil or the high nitrogen content
will "burn" your plants.
Kelpman
Liquid Kelp Ferilizer
Formerly called
Sea Spray
Pint (concentrate)
A wonderful organic fertilizer from the folks who make Baby Blanket soilless planting medium, Kelpman
gives your Grass, Greens and Micro-Greens everything they need to grow fast and strong - and delicious.
This is a concentrate. Dilute with water and spray (if you need a sprayer, they are
listed directly below) it on your plants, soak Baby Blanket or other soilless medium
and even soak your seeds in it! Each pint (16 fluid ounces) makes up to 25 gallons!
My Grass or Greens are moldy.
There are two issues when it comes to Grass and Greens: Mold and fungus. Mold can grow on seeds even
in the first few days after planting. It is usually a result of bad seed, bad soil, a dirty growing container, or
improper growing methods. We hate to tell folks the ONE way to sprout or grow, but we have heard some
methods from some of our customers which drive us nervous. We will say that if you buy our seeds and
follow our directions, you will get good results. So, if you are having mold problems, follow OUR
instructions on our web site. Do clean your growing containers and Use Only sterile soil (any bagged
soil) or a soilless medium. If you aren't using our seeds, consider buying some - if you can't solve the
problem with our advise.
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Fungus is a hairy growth that is not uncommon in Grass and is sometimes seen on Greens.
It is commonly called FUZZIES by those of us in the growing business. It is NOT
harmful, but it is gross. The answer is to increase air-circulation. This can be done by
growing in a different location - outside is best and solves the problem 95% of the time. The other
solution is to plant less densely. Fungus is only a problem in hot/humid conditions. We plant as much as
50% less seed per tray in the height of summer - that AND growing outside ALWAYS solves the problem
Medium
That upon which we plant our seeds when we intend to produce plants like Grass, Greens
and Micro-Greens. Normally we use soil (we have used many tons of sterile bagged soil to
produce our non-sprout crops since we started back in 1993), but anything that holds water
can be considered a medium. The lowest example of a medium is paper towel, but a good
medium is something that holds water longer, and is of course, organic. We now offer two
soilless mediums along with an organic liquid fertilizer. Both Baby Blanket and Vermiculite
offer a cleaner medium for planting, and with the addition of Kelpman liquid kelp fertilizer,
you can now produce great crops with much less mess.
Greening
Sprouts
We don't do anything special to green our sprouts when we grow at home. We grow
them from start to finish on the kitchen counter - or the dish drainer if there is room. In
either case they get light from our combined 150-200 watts around the room - just
regular light bulbs, and a little (very) indirect sunlight.
When you're growing sprouts, room light is nothing to worry about! Don't bother hiding
your Sprouts, they can't begin photosynthesis until they have leaves anyway and
contrary to the all too popular dogma in sprouting books - it does no harm!
On the day your Sprouts are ready to take in light - when their cotyledons (leaves) have
shed their hulls or are about to - allow your sprouts light - if you've been keeping it from
them. If you grow them - like we do - where light is already available, just watch the
magic (it'll take a couple days so you might want to grab a sandwich if you plan on
watching every moment =:-)
As for Grass - it will also do swell with the Sprout sufficient light and since you allow
Grass light when still quite small, it is best to keep it away from direct (hot) light so the
soil doesn't dry out. After it has grown to two or three inches it will have developed a
canopy over the soil. You can be more aggressive with your light then, if you wish, but
as with the Greens, the root mass is greater than the soil mass by this time so keep it
moist!
True Leaves
The leaves that appear after the Cotyledon or Seed leaves.
Cotyledon
The first leaves of the embryonic plant within the seed that are used as a food supply for the
germinating embryo. Also called a "seed leaf".
Hull(ing)
Hull: The dry outer covering of a seed or nut.
Hulling: The removal of hulls.
We do not mind most hulls - mostly we consider them to be extra roughage. Most Legumes
(Beans, Alfalfa, Clover) have hulls, some of which will float or otherwise make themselves
available for removal, during regular Rinsing and Draining. You may choose to De-Hull your
crop or not. Here is the method. We do remove hulls from Brassica Sprouts (Broccoli, Radish,
etc.) as they are so big (relative to the sprout) and wet that they compromise both texture
and storage of the finished sprouts if not removed.
Juicers
Click the links to go the the Juicer's Information page.
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Adzuki
3 Years
Alfalfa
4 Years
Almond
4 Years
Arugula
5 Years
2 Years
Barley (hulled)
2 Years
Basil
3 Years
4 Years
Broccoli
5 Years
Buckwheat, in hull
2 Years
2 Years
Cabbage
4 Years
Cauliflower
5 Years
Celery
5 Years
Clover, Crimson
4 Years
Clover, Red
4 Years
Cress, Curly
5 Years
Dill
3 Years
Fennel (leaf)
3 Years
Fenugreek
5 Years
Flax, Brown
3 Years
Flax, Golden
3 Years
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Garbanzo
4 Years
Garlic (Chive)
12-18 Months
Hemp Seed
5 Years
5 Years
Kamut
2 Years
Leek*
12-18 Months
Lentil
5 Years
Millet
4 Years
Mizuna
4 Years
Mung Bean
2 Years
4 Years
Oats, in hull
2 Years
Oats, hulless
18-24 Months
Onion
12-18 Months
Pea
5 Years
Peanut
5 Years
Pinto Bean
4 Years
Popcorn
8 years
Pumpkin
2 Years
Quinoa
3 Years
Radish
5 Years
Rice
2 Years
Rye
2 Years
Sesame
2 Years
Soy Bean
4 Years
Spelt
2 Years
Sunflower, in shell
2 Years
Sunflower, hulled
2 Years
Tatsoi
4 Years
Triticale
2 Years
2 Years
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Ideal storage is 40 and 40% humidity. If you can do that you can double the
numbers above. If you freeze seeds you can multiply the numbers by 4 or 5.
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The Method
You can use a sieve or colander for this task as long as your seeds won't fall through the
holes. Some of our Sprouters are perfect for this too. These are the best and in both cases
you can Prep and just move right on to sprouting:
Easy Sprout
Jars with Lids
Whether you use one of our Sprouters or your own container, it should be at least very clean
and even better, sterile. You should scrub it well with soap and/or a dilute bleach solution (1
Tbs. of bleach per pint is good & strong)
Put your seeds in the Sprouter or other thing and run water through them until the water
runs clear. Stir the seeds up with a spoon, fork or high pressure water to make sure they are
all getting well bathed. That's all there is to it.
Seed Soaking
Dry seeds are dormant.
Soaking a seed ends it's dormancy and begins a new life.
In nature this seed will make a plant which can, in turn make seeds, which can
in turn make more plants, which can make More Seeds which make More
plants and more and More and MORE!
We eat all this potential. Its no wonder sprouts are SO nutritious!
Add Water:
Different seeds soak up different amounts of water.
Mix 2-3 parts water to 1 part seed.
The seeds are going to absorb a lot of water while soaking. All that matters is
that we provide enough of it. As a rule 2-3 TIMES AS MUCH water (as
seeds) is enough, but you can not use too much - the seeds will only absorb
what they can regardless of what they have access too. But don't short them or
they won't sprout well.
You can not use too much water, but you can soak for too long. Read the seed
information pages for the seeds you are sprouting.
to stir the seeds around, or, if we're using an Easy Sprout we will repeatedly
twirl and plunge the Growing Vessel into the partially full of water Solid Base.
Seeds like Alfalfa, Clover and Broccoli can be covered with water but still fail to soak
any up - in the same way that a spoon full of Nestle's Quick plunged into a glass of milk
will remain dry. If you Prep your Seeds before Soaking you will likely not suffer the
"Nestle's Quick syndrome" since your seeds will already be thoroughly wet.
There are some tricks you can use - like soaking in hot water, to shorten the time of the
soak or to make seeds - which aren't soaking up water well - soak it up. Warm water can
shorten the time it takes for a seed to finish Soaking. A warm spot in the house can
speed up your crop while a cold spot can slow it down. You can Green sprouts outside
in freezing weather if you make a tiny portable greenhouse.......... There are a whole lot
of ways to make trouble for you and your crop. We will discuss a couple now and will
improve this area as time permits. Really - you should just stop reading this page NOW.
Hot water can cook seeds if used incorrectly or it can make a "hard seed" sprout by
convincing it to soak up water. If you are curious about these tricks read on.
We stock over 70 varieties of sprouting seeds all the time. Every year we test crops from
multiple farmers and seed dealers to find the seeds that sprout best, taste best and store
best. But there are some crop years when it is impossible to find the quality we are
looking for in a given seed. Fortunately since our seeds come from all over the Planet it
is usually just a problem with a few seeds a year. Certain seeds are more prone to
difficulties than others but even the most easily grown crops can suffer. It really boils
down to weather and farm location and as we all know, every year is different
everywhere. We have found, over the years, that the crops that tend to have
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idiosyncrasies most often are: Adzuki Beans, Mung Beans, and Broccoli. So we'll use
them as examples of how to use Soaking to make them better than they want to be.
In the case of Adzukis, Mungs and sometimes, though less frequently Broccoli; there is
many a lot that has hard seed. We deal with that by using warmer water. The worst case
we ever had was Adzukis back in 1995. Those seeds were so difficult that we would
soak them with an initial water temperature of 120 (the water cools as time passes) in
an effort to convince the beans to take up water. It worked. That same year we had
Mungs that started at 100! Maybe the year we had to soak our Adzukis for 36 hours
(changing the water every 12 hours of course) was the worst...... Luckily we haven't had
any seed so demanding in a couple years. Our last hard seed problem was with our 1998
Broccoli crop which required an initial temperature of 100 but which couldn't soak for
more than 1 1/2 hours. If we soaked longer the seed would fail to produce edible
sprouts. Hard seed is really only serious in the case of Beans. A hard Bean is as hard as
a rock and can break a tooth if you're unlucky. When the hard seed is a small seed like
Broccoli the problem is simpler - you aren't likely to break a tooth - the crop is just low
yielding. Still even that is unacceptable. Though all of our seeds are currently
(September, 2001) without any problems, we are always careful - especially with
Mungs and Adzukis.
Both Beans are slower to take up water than other Beans so we make sure that all are
soft before we terminate the soak. Here is what we say on our Adzuki page:
Adzuki Beans will pale somewhat as they swell with water. Before you end your soak,
check them: If you see that on some of your beans, part of the bean (one end usually) is
still as dark as it was before soaking, they need a little more time to soak - to make sure
they have taken up all the water they need.
For that reason we generally soak Adzukis for 12 hours.
Adzukis also tend to have more hard seed than other seed types. If you buy your seed
from us this is not a concern, but if you buy Adzuki or other seeds elsewhere be sure to
examine them after soaking to make sure there are no hard seeds (seeds that are as hard
after soaking as before) lurking at the bottom. If there are - throw those (the hard ones)
out! They are easy to spot as they are smaller and darker red than those that are
swollen with water.
There are some times when we just need to rush things a bit. We will use warmer water
and decrease the Soak's duration. As previously mentioned this is risky. As an example,
if you soak Lentils in 100 water (initial temperature) they will be done soaking in just a
couple hours - or they may have partially cooked by then. The rule of thumb is that if
you use warm water - and even more so when you use hot water - you need to
physically touch your seeds to see when they have softened. It would be wise to try
warm/hot soaks only after you have enough experience to know what a correctly soaked
seed feels like.
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By using high pressure water (turning your faucet to high) you "clean" your
sprouts, infuse them with oxygen (oxygenate) and keep them loose - which
helps a lot when it comes to Draining.
Though sprouts will grow with little water - as long as the humidity is right, it
is our long held opinion that they won't grow as well, store as well or taste as
good. Even further - though we have no scientific evidence, we think the
heavy watering/oxygenating makes healthier sprouts. We see sprouting as
micro-gardening. A garden loves nothing more then a nice thorough rain on a
perfect Summer day - plants seem to grow before your eyes. With Sprouts, a
thorough rinse along with desired humidity and 70 temperature is a perfect
Summer day, so let it rain!
Don't forget the other most vital element of sprouting: Draining
Watering Plants
If you are watering Greens and Grass the basic rule is to keep the seed moist
until it's root is buried in the soil (or other water retaining medium), at which
point you keep the medium moist.
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Don't water to the point of drowning however. If your seeds/plants are sitting in a
muddy swamp they will suffer too. Common sense will guide you =:-}
Your plants will require more and more water as they grow bigger - they are
after all, mostly water - so water them whenever they need it - every day or 2
at first and at least every day during their last few days of growth.
Water from the sides if possible to avoid hurting the tender plants - remember
- you are watering the medium not the plants during the last several days.
You are probably thinking: If I use less water to Rinse I'll have an easier time
Draining. Logical. As we've said so many times on these pages; we've grown a
whole lot of sprouts, and we've tried just about everything over the years including Rinse/Drain variations. We'd love to pay less every month on our
water bill. We'd love to cut our production time in half by having less water to
Drain. We think: Why bother putting all that water in if we're just going to
take it out?
Well: We've tried - too many times. Too many of our employees have tried too many times. We know it may not make sense, but it is true - Rinsing
thoroughly grows better sprouts! BUT - when you Rinse thoroughly you
MUST Drain just as thoroughly.
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So, spin, shake, bounce and twirl your sprouter - just get as much
water out as you can after every thorough Rinse.**
Greening
Sprouts
We don't do anything special to green our sprouts when we grow at home. We
grow them from start to finish on the kitchen counter - or the dish drainer if
there is room. In either case they get light from our combined 150-200 watts
around the room - just regular light bulbs, and a little (very) indirect sunlight.
When you're growing sprouts, room light is nothing to worry about! Don't
bother hiding your Sprouts, they can't begin photosynthesis until they have
leaves anyway and contrary to the all too popular dogma in sprouting books - it
does no harm!
On the day your Sprouts are ready to take in light - when their cotyledons
(leaves) have shed their hulls or are about to - allow your sprouts light - if
you've been keeping it from them. If you grow them - like we do - where light is
already available, just watch the magic (it'll take a couple days so you might
want to grab a sandwich if you plan on watching every moment =:-)
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(hot) light so the soil doesn't dry out. After it has grown to two or three inches it
will have developed a canopy over the soil. You can be more aggressive with
your light then, if you wish, but as with the Greens, the root mass is greater
than the soil mass by this time so keep it moist!
Some of the crops we offer need to be planted on soil or another moisture retaining
medium. This is the page that tells you how.
Pre-Sprout
Put seed into a bowl or your Sprouter.
Add 2-3 times as much cool (60-70 degree) water.
Mix seeds up to assure even water contact for all.
Allow seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.
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Planting
Soil Note: The amount of soil you use is up to you. The reality is this: As your plants
grow they need more and more water. They get their water from the soil. The more soil
you use - the more water it can hold - the less you need to water.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Sometimes you may need to use your fingers to make sure the soil is moist all the way
down to the bottom of the tray. Water, mix, water, mix, etc. Sometimes you don't have to
do that.
Thoroughly moisten the soil. Allow puddles to dry.
Baby Blanket:
Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet,
Kelpman enriched water (You don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we
grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated (fold it up and push it into the liquid - use
a pot or something similar to hold it). Unfold it and re-fold differently or do whatever
makes sense - the goal is to get the pad THOROUHGLY soaked. Spread the wet pad
across the bottom of your Planting Tray. Proceed...
Vermiculite:
Vermiculite absorbs liquid so readily and holds it so supremely that you need little of it.
We use 3 Cups for an 11 x 11 inch tray and 6 Cups for an 11 x 22 inch tray. If you're
using another tray, make it 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Spray water evenly across the surface
then spread it out as evenly as you can. We like to use Kelpman enriched water (You
don't NEED fertilizer for grass, but we use it when we grow without soil.) so we just
pour it on until thoroughly saturated and then spread it out. The amount of liquid is
this: a little more than one quart for an 11 x 22 inch tray. You don't want more than a
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little left in the Drip Tray. Pour off what water remains above the ridges of the Drip
Tray. Proceed...
Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened soil or medium.
Rinse your seeds one last time and then sprinkle them across the planting medium.
Spread them out as evenly as you can. We use a lot of seed, and though some literature
will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from
years of experience and tens of thousands of Trays of Grass and Greens grown that;
that is bunk! You will learn for yourself that Grasses and Greens produce a plant that
takes up less room than the seed did, and so to maximize your yield your seeds must lay
atop each other to some degree. The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal
problems in your Grass/Greens then lessen the amount of grain you plant. The
hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always,
you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!
Cover the planted tray
with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) - to keep light out and moisture in.
Note: Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it so that some air circulation
exists. Without this very minimal air flow you might have mold or fungal problems.
Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70 is always optimal but Grasses and some Greens will grow very well in cooler
temperatures also. All will LOVE 70.
Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the
soil/medium - at which point your goal is to keep the soil/medium moist. Spraying the
sprouts is best - whether you use a garden hose sprayer, hand sprayer or faucet sprayer just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their
roots. You may use Kelpman if you like.
Water the medium.
Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist - the seeds and
subsequent plants will get the moisture they need through their roots. Water from the
side if possible, to prevent injuring the tender plants.
The Soilless alternative.
Baby Blanket will dry out more quickly than soil in most circumstances, so you should
either water more often or experiment with our somewhat risky trick:
Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don't go
crazy - too much can drown your plants and/or lead to mold or fungal problems. Just
leave as much water as the plants can drink in a day and then add more the following
day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're growing in,
and the size of the plants and roots, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest
that you start with 1-2 cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is
left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still
water 24 hours later then cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and
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not as risky as we make it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happy healthy
Grass and Greens.
Once again, we do recommend Kelpman enriched water for soilless growers. Soil
growers may use it too of course, but the soil does have some nutrients already, so it is
not nearly as important for you.
Vermiculite holds water better than anything, but the same method works for it: Use the
Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will eventually grow into this, so don't go crazy
- too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just leave as
much water as the grass and Vermiculite can drink in a day and then add more the
following day. The amount is dependant on the climate (humidity especially) you're
growing in, so you'll have to learn this for yourself. We suggest that you start with 1-2
cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12
hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water - if there is still water 24 hours later then
cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, and not as risky as we make
it sound - it is really a time saver and produces happier healthy plants. Use Kelpman
too. We probably give more water than is necessary, but we end up with great crops and
the grass keeps growing even after we cut it - even if we don't add water daily.
Vermiculite is great stuff!
Uncover your Grass/Greens
Wait (3-4 days) until it is 1-2 inches tall or until it pushes the covering tray up (it really
will do that - it is cool!)
Move to a well lit location to Green your Grass
(If you use direct sunlight (a very good idea for Grass and Greens) be prepared to do
more watering). Keep it moist by watering the soil/medium daily. Watch it grow. It
takes about 10 days to get to....
Harvest
By cutting just above the soil/medium when the Grass is 6 or more inches tall (actually
height is just a matter of yield - you can cut it any time you want to). or the Greens are 4
or more inches tall, but only their first set of leaves (Cotyledon) are unfurled and
(hopefully) the hulls have fallen from them. If you wait until the 2nd set of leaves (True
Leaves) form, you have waited too long - your plants may be bitter. In the case of Pea
Shoots there are no Cotyledons or True Leaves - just a vine. Taste one every 12-24
hours after they reach 4 inches, to see when thay taste and feel best.
Grass Note: We believe that you will get the best flavor and nutrition from freshly cut
Grass. We cut JUST prior to juicing and we feel the difference! But, you are better off
juicing week old Grass than no Grass at all, so do what you must! Drink More Juice!
If you are going to store your crop: During the final 8-12 hours minimize the surface
moisture of your Grass or Greens - it will store best in your refrigerator if they are dry
to the touch. So if you water try to keep the water off the plants - just water the
soil/medium.
Micro-Greens
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Clean is Good
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All that you really need to know is noted on the Sprouter information pages, but we will
put it here too.
Basically you should sterilize your Sprouter as often as you can. We do this every 3-4
crops in our home Sprouter, but when we grew professionally we sterilized in between
EVERY CROP (and we used a lot higher bleach concentration). It is always best to have
a clean Sprouter - that way your crop will have a head start. We suggest soaking your
Sprouter for 10-20 minutes in bleach water (1 Tbs. of bleach per pint of water is good
and strong according to the FDA and local Health Department.) and then scrubbing
thoroughly.
You can also use food-grade Hydrogen Peroxide, and some folks like Grapefruit Seed
Extract. Whatever works for you is fine - we do not like bleach, we hate it, but we know
it to work and we use so little now.....
With a few of our Sprouters you may need to poke some seeds out of some tight places.
We use a paper clip or toothpick for this task.
Be sure to rinse all of that bleach out - you don't want it on your seeds!
And - be careful not to burn yourself - bleach is caustic after all.
Hull Removal
De-hulling is the process of removing hulls (seed coats)
from your finished sprouts.
We don't de-hull much in our sprout business. We never bother with Beans, we brush
what we can off of our Greens (by holding the tray at a 90 angle and rubbing a hand
back and forth over the tops of the plants), and since we grow our Leafy sprouts
vertically, the hulls fall off naturally as we rinse (though we do "shave" them if they
need it - which is really fun!). The only sprouts we always de-hull are Brassicas. Their
hulls are quite big (relative to the size of their sprout) and retain too much moisture which can lessen the shelf life of the sprouts.
The sprouts which are typically candidates for De-hulling are grown from Dicot seeds.
Seeds whose 1st leaves (cotyledons (ko-ta-LEE-den)) are the seed itself (Alfalfa,
Clover, Brassicas and many garden Beans just to name a few) will shed their hull as the
leaves unfurl. Any gardener will know from watching a Bean grow - the plant pokes up
through the ground looking like a bean on the end of a stem. The bean on the end of the
stem splits in two in short order. That bean is now called the plant's cotyledons. True
Leaves will follow and the cotyledons will fall off or die as the plant grows - having
done their job - as a seed - being the storage vessel for all of the nutrients needed to
germinate and grow the plant to a point where it could gather it's nutrients from the
Earth and Sun.
In sprouting we grow plants no further then the cotyledons, and then only with certain
seeds. The hulls which are left behind vary from sprout to sprout in regards to texture
and density. some seeds - like the Brassicas (Broccoli, Radish, Cabbage, etc.) shed very
thick hulls which , if not removed can shorten the shelf life of your sprouts due to their
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moisture content. Alfalfa and Clover, as well as Mung Beans have very thin hulls which
in no way effect the shelf life of your sprouts, but some people prefer to dispose of them
for aesthetic or textural reasons. We leave our Mung's hulls alone and remove our Leafy
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sprout's hulls only when we grow in non-tray devices. When we grow in Trays - which
we do in our fresh sprout business we "shave" the hulls off at the last rinse.
Other sprouts also produce hulls. Lentils and Peas - if grown long enough - will shed
their hulls as well. In both cases they are not shed from the cotyledon but from the seed
which in field planting stays where it is planted - growing a root down and a plant up
from that point. That type of seed is called Monocot. Both of these produce rather thick
hulls which you may wish to remove. We don't grow them long enough for the hulls to
fall off so we do not remove them, and in any case, we consider the hulls completely
acceptable and to be a good source of fibre. You decide for yourself - the method is the
same for any sprout. It only varies depending on the device you sprout in and then only
if you are using a tray - which we recommend only for Beans and/or the advanced
sprout farmer.
The Procedure
Transfer your finished sprouts into a large bowl or pot.
Fill 3/4 full with cold-cool water. If you are de-hulling Brassicas or Leafy sprouts you
can use the force of the water to help you break the sprout mass apart.
Break up the sprouts so that they are all swimming independently (This allows for a
much more thorough hull removal.). Swish the sprouts around with your hand (you did
wash your hands didn't you =;-) for a minute or so. You will see the top of the water
become covered with hulls. Look at the swimming sprouts to see if they look hull free
enough for you. Swish as much as you like - you are doing great.
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You get a choice now. You are to separate the sprouts and the hulls at this point and
some folks like to remove hulls 1st while others like to remove sprouts. Personally I like
to remove sprouts so I push the hulls over to the side and grab swimming sprouts.
I do this because I feel that the absence of sprouts swimming in the middle of the bowl
makes it easier to remove the hulls from the top. If I remove hulls 1st I inevitably pull
up some sprouts along with the hulls and I hate to waste a sprout after growing it. In
either case - you can use a strainer to do the work or your hand if you like the feel. We
will be offering strainers specifically for de-hulling in the future.
So - remove the sprouts back to the sprouting device and toss the
hulls in your compost or garbage.
If you grew Leafy sprouts in a tray you can do as above or better yet you can shave the
hulls off the top. Many of the hulls fall off in the course of rinsing when growing
sprouts in the upright fashion a tray does. You can shave the rest off during your last
rinse. Just tip the tray at an angle or hold a sprayer at an angle to the tray and wash the
hulls away.
Rinse the sprouts in cold water and drain painfully well.
Let them sit for 8-12 hours or use a salad spinner to remove the surface moisture before
you refrigerate them. There is no quicker way to kill produce than to refrigerate it wet,
so make sure that your sprouts are reasonable dry before you refrigerate them.
There aren't a lot of sprouters that travel well, but the ones
that do make for a much nicer trip!
The major limitations to sprouting on the road are timely Rinsing and
Draining. Because we don't necessarily know our schedule (a good thing think
we) and may not be around water when our sprouts need it, it is perhaps a
good idea to take seeds that are less demanding on our trip.
We take nuts, seeds, beans and grains when we go mobile, as they take less
time to grow into an edible sprout and therefore require fewer Rinse/Drain
cycles.
If you know you can manage to care for your sprouts every 8 - 12 hours you
can easily grow leafy sprouts and brassicas too.
Here are the sprouters and seeds that will work best while on the road
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This is the place to be if you think seeds are cool. Well, it is at least one of the
places to be. We really want to do this up big time, but we have to satisfy adults
(and they can be very demanding =:-) who want to buy our seeds and supplies, so
this area of our site is kind of slow to evolve. If you can send us links or info, we'd
love it. Let's get going - here's a picture with words you may not know, but will
soon if you read and click around a little.....
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The dry seeds you hold in your hand are asleep. To wake them up all you need to
do is give them water or plant them in the ground at the right time of year. A seed
that is alive but asleep is said to be dormant. Some times seeds can't be woken up
the normal ways and people have to "break the dormancy" by freezing them or
laying them out in the light, but the seeds we have sent you will wake up with just a
soak in cool water.
After you soak some bean or lentil seeds you can peel the tough outer coat off of a
few just to look at them. The coat feels like leather and looks like plastic. It
protected the seed from humidity and dirt while it slept. You can pull the seed
apart into two halves that look just alike.
All bean-like seeds have two halves. They are called cotyledons. These cotyledons
contain all the food that the seed needs to begin growing into a plant. And although
they don't look like it yet, those two halves will become two leaves--the first two
leaves on the young plant. But you will eat the sprout before the leaves come out,
unless you want to grow some for longer to see what will happen.
When water is given to the seed amazing things start to happen. Scientists still
don't really understand it all. A factory starts up in those cotyledons that changes
the food that has been stored there when the seed was dormant into energy units
called enzymes, which run everything that lives. The enzymes make the seeds a
super nutritious food for people, birds, dogs, horses, cows, hamsters, mice,
squirrels and all kinds of other creatures. We call them sprouts. Sprouts are very
stong food. They have as much protein as meat and eggs, as much vitamin C as
orange juice, as much vitamin A as carrots, just to name a few.
As your sprouts grow the cotyledons feed a stem that growns between them and if
you let the sprouts grow a really long time a tiny leafy bud would start to grow out
of the top of the stem--but you'll eat them before that happens. A root comes out of
the other end of the stem. It will grow long and will become the first root of the
plant when the seed begins to grow. If you had planted your dry seed in dirt and
then watered it, you would never see that root because it would be burrowing
straight down underground.
Most seeds have two cotyledons. Those seeds are called dicots. Dicot seeds are
beans, lentils, peanuts, garbanzos, broccoli, alfalfa, clover, and just about
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When you give a monocot seed water the factory is not found in the cotyledon. It is
found in a special part of the seed known only to the grass family called the
endosperm. The endosperm feeds the cotyledon while it is dormant, all winter long,
getting it ready for the time when it will be planted and its dormancy will be
broken. In monocots the cotyledon grows a stem and a root, just like in the dicot
seeds, but without the endosperm it would die. The endosperm is what gives the
yummy flavors we like in wheat, oats, corn, and all the other grains.
So seeds aren't really asleep. They are alive and moving in your hand, deep inside,
mysterious. They only look silent to us--until we add water! Happy sprouting!
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We want you to grow your own food - it's fun and it's liberating. We
want to sell you seeds for the rest of your life - so we offer
only the finest seeds available. We are committed to making
your sprouting experience as perfect as possible, so in
addition to the most extensive list of seeds anywhere (no
foolin') - we offer a wide range of sprouters and other tools,
thorough growing instructions, recipes and complete
"technical support".
Our goal is to provide the Home Sprouter with everything needed to
grow the finest sprouts anywhere in the world. The seeds we
sell you are the same seeds we sprout.
Between 1993-2003, we grew over 200 TONS of sprouts (1,500
pounds of sprouts weekly at our peak in 1998) - by hand. Our
seeds soaked in buckets and our sprouts were rinsed and
drained over a sink, 2-3 times daily. Nowadays we grow on our
kitchen counter in the same sprouters we sell - of course
using the same seeds we sell.
Because we grew so many sprouts for so long and grow sprouts like
you do - we are better able to understand and anticipate your
needs.
We Grow 'Em - We Know 'Em!
Why Organic?
The more organic seeds we sell - the greater is our demand for
organic seed - causing farmers to create a greater supply of
organic seed to meet our greater demand - the greater the rate
land is farmed organically - the greater the planet feels - the
greater our children's children's children will feel.
What Organic Means to Us
SproutNet
Our WWW home (since August 1996) exists because we feel that the
internet is the current best opportunity for world community,
and we aim to do our part.
Our offerings include:
o
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Over 400 huge pages of sprout information - always free and always available
whether you shop with us or not.
o A full line of home-sprouting supplies.
o Learn to prepare sprouts and enjoy some delicious recipes.
A meeting place for those interested not only in sprouts, but also organics, and
anything else that we discover belongs here.
o Easy Shopping.
o
o
Past
Last Updated 12/27/99
The Sproutpeople are comprised of Gil + Lori - a married couple, Sam - a six year old man
child, and Alice - a 2 year old fountain of love.
Gil and Lori met in San Francisco, married six weeks after falling in love at a Grateful Dead
Show, in 1986. Gil managed a comedy club, then drove a limo, then a cab. Lori finished her
MFA (Gil got his in'83) while answering phones at the San Francisco Art Institute, then
managed a commercial real estate office. We adopted two cats and two dogs from the pound
before we moved to Seattle in 1989, bought our first house and put in our first garden. It
was that garden and our first dog - Jupiter's love for nature that led us to quit our pathetic
jobs and sell our home in 1991 and move - sight unseen - to deep Southern Illinois in pursuit
of self-sufficiency. We packed the cats into the VW Bus in-tow, and the now three dogs (we
adopted a stray fox terrier while in the NorthWest) into the front of the seventeen foot
moving van along with us. We arrived in Carbondale, Illinois six days later, found a rental and
started looking for our homestead. A month later we had spent all of our money on a
beautiful post-glaciated forty acres with a shabby little old house. We put in two gardens
totaling about one-half acre, collected a couple goats and a dozen chickens and began living.
We realized too late that we were very alone out there and not financially prepared to be
self-sufficient, and there wasn't a job anywhere. We sold our farm in 1992 at quite a loss and
moved to unglaciated Southwest Wisconsin in pursuit of community and another farm.
We found Gays Mills quite by accident, got jobs picking apples, rented a house and began
looking for our next farm. this time there was a plan - to grow heirloom vegetables and sell
them at The Dane County Farmer's Market in Madison, Wisconsin. We bought our farm in the
Spring of 1993 shortly after beginning our life as farmers market venders. We sold heirloom
plant starts at first, but it was a very wet year and we couldn't get our garden spot tilled. We
ran out of things to sell about six weeks into the market, Lori suggested that we try to come
up with something until our garden started producing. She said "Let's grow sprouts." Gil said
"I hate sprouts." So, Lori grew sprouts - we had over fifty quart jars full a few days later and
had something to take to market.
A few months later we were taking ten varieties of sprouts and had developed a regular
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clientele who begged us to keep sprouting. Gil had found that he actually liked sprouts and
realized that growing them was at least as enjoyable as gardening. After one particularly
horrible market we decided to take our unsold sprouts to a local co-op. The produce manager
at Mifflin Street Community Co-op, Kirsten, said "Sure, I'll buy 'em" and our lives took
another turn from which we are still reeling. Bless her.
Present
It is so fleeting. I'd have to write every day to keep this current - or
every hour - or constantly... we're trying to live in our present so please forgive us if we don't write it down.
Future
What was here today (7/22/05) as I update some pages, was SO out-of-date it wasn't even
funny. I think we need to write a book about sprouting and our lives as sproutpeople ...
hours is not a long week and a day off is nothing but a dream, but if you are
doing something you believe in (as we have) it is all well worth while. We now
employ 3 people full-time and several others part-time. We pay wages above
most local businesses (spending over 25% of our gross sales on labor in 1998
and a substantially higher percentage this year), we are respectful of our
employees and feel them to be as much "The Sproutpeople" as we are. We are
Certified Organic because we feel that organic is the only viable way to grow
anything if we expect our childrens children to live and thrive on this planet.
But now all of our futures are in doubt due to over a years worth of relentless
bad press from the Federal Government and a media which does not examine
the facts. This has driven our fresh sprout sales down 50% year to date, and its
only getting worse. We expect someday soon there will be a knock on the door
and everything we worked so hard for will be gone in an instant.
We dont expect to be able to stop this madness and we see as a result the death
of our fresh sprout business. Our northern route (which at this time in 1998 was
a thriving 52% of our business) which includes LaCrosse, WI and the Twin
Cities of Minnesota is so close to now losing money that we expect it to be
terminated by the end of August if not sooner. We cannot, after 6 years carry
our business if it is losing money. It was only profitable for a short time and
now that its heading down (steadily since July 1998 in fact) into the red, we will
allow it to die rather than take on more debt to keep it afloat in hopes of a better
future. Things are not at all likely to get better in the sprout industry ever.
But, it is our hope that the educated natural foods consumer will still want our
sprouts, knowing that they are as safe and healthy as ever, and will grow their
own if need be (100% of loyal customers polled at the Dane County Farmers
Market confirm this). So we will try expanding our Home Sprout/Seed business
in hopes of survival for our business, our employees and healthy sprouts for our
end users. If things continue on the way they have been this past year, growing
your own will truly be the only choice for sprout eaters (unless you like bleach
with your sprouts perhaps), and that is by no means a given as you will see in
the following pages. But assuming that sprouts are not made illegal (dont
laugh), we will be after all of our store accounts to add or expand our home
sprout product line and we will try to find money to increase mail-order and
internet advertising and presence. You see - We are not the best at what we do,
we are the only ones who do what we do! And we will require all of you caring
and helping if you want us to be here in some form - next year.
Please, please, please read the following pages and pass them on to others. We
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all must stand up and be counted if we want justice and rights, and NOW IS
THE TIME!
THE REPORT
To All Concerned,
You must take the time to sit down and read this entire letter!
Our fresh sprout business is hanging by a thread and now is the time that you
need to educate yourselves and your customers if you wish us and other sprout
growers to survive.
The FDA has created a panic over the safety of sprouts. Jane Henney, head of
the FDA delivered a press release July 9, 1999 naming sprouts as a high risk
food and warning that everyone, not just the young, thesick and the elderly, but
EVERYONE should stop eating sprouts if they want to avoid illness. If you think
this press release hasnt hurt the sprout industry, heres what we know: a
grower we have talked to in Kentucky has just lost all her restaurant accounts.
In Santa Cruz a company which has been sprouting for 20 years has stopped
growing alfalfa sprouts altogether because they refuse to use the toxic levels of
bleach demanded by the California Department of Health Services. Just this
week the Dane County Department of Health in Madison, Wisconsin banned
sprouts from salad bars and premade deli sandwiches. Sprout growers have lost
gross sales of around 30% across the board. Our own sales continue to plummet
(down 50% as of June) and if not for our mail order business, we would have
laid off most of our loyal staff by now. The FDA has come close to libeling the
sprout industry with misleading and downright inaccurate statements. Why
Jane Henney of the FDA is so intent on obliterating a tiny industry that
produces a wonderfully healthy food and whose contamination percentage is
negligible compared to that of the large and powerful food industries is not at
all clear to us. All we can come up with is that she does it because she can. Also,
we theorize that the sprout "industry" although containing some major players
with high profiles is, by and large composed of small family or even singleperson operations. We have no strong, unified organization that can exert
pressure and influence on us all, the way almost all other food industries have,
and we think that the very independence and illusiveness of this industry
makes it very hard for government agencies to seek out and control it.
Understandably, this could make the FDA nervous and we can, in that sense see
why Henney, maybe out of frustration, maybe out of punitive motives, issued
her harsh warning. The FDA may be motivated by the desire to seek
consolidation within the sprout world, by pushing out small growers like
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ourselves who can't financially withstand the assaults. We, The Sproutpeople
are the only ones who are apparently taking the time to research, write about,
and publish this story in any depth. Make note at this time that we are asking
you all to use any connections you or your friends might have to get this letter
into the hands of a real investigative reporter so that this scandal can be brought
to light. Our own business is tiny even by sprout industry standards. We are a
small family business. We have two young children who have grown up in this
business. Regardless of the FDAs motives, we are highly offended, outraged, in
fact, that the FDA is issuing press releases that say sprouts are filthy and
dangerous, thereby depriving us of our livelihood. The statements of Jane
Henney, Commissioner of the FDA belie the facts. In this paper we will set out
to discredit the FDAs claims by exposing how they put our industry in the
worst possible light, while, in a press release on egg safety just a week before,
they manage to paint that industry, which has terrible salmonella infection
rates, in the most glowing terms. It will be blatantly apparent when you
compare the articles side by side that the FDA kowtows to those with money .
They surely do not expect the public to have done the comparison that we have
done.
We will also lead you through some simple math to demonstrate the actual risk
of eating sprouts and compare that to the risk of other foods. Perspective and
balance is desperately needed on this issue. Honesty is needed. Sincerity is
needed. The sprout industry has had some outbreaks in the past, but they are
way down from 1996 and most of those were caused either by infected seed
from a seed company or from a few people sprouting in conditions that most of
us sprout growers would never have anything to do with and that a simple
health inspection could have rectified. The FDA has simply gone ballistic on
sprouts. They are on a witch hunt and they wont be happy until there are no
sprout companies left in existence. I know this is hard to believe, but they have
just told people to stop eating sprouts! I dont think they want us around
anymore.
The FDA maintains on their web site a list of recent press releases and we went
there to get the actual press release on sprouts written by Henney on July 9,
1999 that was rewritten by Reuters News Service and picked up by The New
York Times and many others. We also noticed a press release written a week
earlier by Henney (July 1, 1999) on egg safety. The facts of the sprout report are
so misleading and unfair and the facts of the egg report so obviously pandering
to the egg industry that we want to both refute the sprout article and contrast it
to the article on egg safety. You wont believe this:
CONSUMERS ADVISED OF RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH RAW SPROUTS
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In fact, the FDA has tried very little, and what tests have been tried
have been conducted by the sprout and sprouting seed industry
itself. The FDA hasnt really lifted a finger, because that finger
would, we believe point toward the contamination of the sprouting
seed at or near harvest with pathogen-infected cow manure from
sick cows in huge atrocious feed lots (many non-organic seed and
cattle operations run side by side). They arent about to crack
down on agribusiness. It has been argued by some people,
ignorant of certified organic farming practices that organic farmers
are the contaminators because they spread livestock manure on
their fields. Conventional farmers also spread livestock manure on
their fields, in some cases along with toxic sludge, but theres one
difference: In organic farming, the manure to be spread has to
first be composted, a method that kills any pathogenic
bacteria before the manure comes in contact with the field.
People who blame organic farmers are just showing their
ignorance, not just for organic practices but for conventional
farming practices as well,
"Consumers who have eaten raw sprouts and are experiencing diarrhea or other
symptoms of foodborne infections are advised to consult their health care
provider."
Sproutpeople Respond: From the infinitesimally small number
of actual cases, Henney has extrapolated a huge, emergency
situation: "Go to your phone and dial 911 NOW!" Another public
relations (and military) tactic to create panic and a climate of fear
and urgency where none exists.
THE EGG AND US
We feel we really must contrast this muckraking piece of garbage with her press
release July 1, 1999
on the contamination by salmonella of eggs. Though we have nothing against
the egg industry per se,
it illustrates to us how a report involving a massive, well funded food lobby can
be watered down and
obfuscated to avoid upsetting the powers that be, in this case the American Egg
Institute and its
congressional backers. Please bear with us while we give a little background:
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Eggs have since the 1960s become increasingly more infected with Salmonella
enteritidis due to the abysmal overcrowding of chickens in poultry factories and
overdosing with antibiotics which have created resistant strains of bacteria. In
1990 the FDA re-designated the egg as a hazardous food under its model food
codes. Eggs would have to be refrigerated along all points of shipment and
storage. Five years later in 1996 the USDA revealed that the rules had never
been enforced because the egg industry felt they were too restrictive. So the
USDA, instead of blaming egg contamination on the giant producers, blamed it
on the mishandling of eggs by the American public. This is the kind of
"cooperation" weve seen from just one, giant industry. So when we saw this
press release, we almost laughedthe title alone would be a joke if it werent so
sad:
NEW EGG SAFETY STEPS ANNOUNCED, SAFE HANDLING LABELS AND
REFRIGERATION WILL BE REQUIRED.
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covered in their own manure as are chicken carcasses and nothing is done to
stop it. Vegetables can be harvested and processed next to huge manure lots.
The USDA, FDA and FSIS know this but they dont want you to know that they
know. In this country "downer" cows (those in the U.S. infected with "mad cow"
disease) are fed to other cows even though it is known that feeding meat to
3
herbivores is the problem in the first place. Jane Henney of the FDA cant do
anything to combat the powerful lobbies and public relations companies which
protect the interests of agribusiness. But she can bully the poor little sprout
"industry" instead and give the public the impression that something is
being done about something. She wants labels on eggs, labels she herself
knows will never happen, but she cant touch the way the eggs are actually
produced, which infects the embryo of the egg itself! Our point is, please dont
be gullible about these FDA factoid sheets; they are just plain nonsense, as I
hope we have illustrated.
We wanted you to see these two contrasting press releases so you could
compare the tone of the one that refers to an industry with no money to a big
powerful moneyed group. I know that some reading this will be angered and
call us cynical; they just dont want to believe that our government doesnt have
our best interests at heart. They dont believe that food industries would
knowingly sicken people. But they do. And the pathetic solutions of the FDA
and USDA do not attack the well-researched and documented problem of
poultry overcrowding as the cause. Instead, they attack they way we cook eggs!
I guess we will no longer have the right to eggs over easy, souffles and
homemade mayonnaise (yum) and this may sound frivilous on the surface, but
it has deeper ramificationsdo we have the right to eat the foods that are
traditional parts of our diets without getting sick from them? The answer from
government and industry seems to be "no".
We have the right to eat whole foods that are alive with nutritionand yes
bacteria for without it we will no longer be healthy and able to fend off disease.
Government policy seems to be made by those totally ignorant of bacterial
ecology and unaware that we are organisms IN nature not ABOVE nature. They
seem to think the only good bacteria is a dead bacteria and would render our
food sterile which would leave us as vulnerable as tourists in Mexico without
agua purificada (purified water).
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When looking for a food that has caused illnesses it is no longer common for it
to be tested microbially to see if the pathogen indeed exists in it. The cause of
foodborne illness is now deduced through interviews with sick populations and
control groups of well people using statistical analysis. This method is a branch
of medicine called Epidemiology and can be very effective in ferreting out the
cause of disease. Its a little like detective work and is considered the cutting
edge method of pinpointing and controlling disease in a population but it is still
in the proving stages and many people have staked their careers and
reputations on its acceptance.
Epidemiology uses the terminology that a food is "linked" to a disease because
no actual biological tests need be conducted to determine if the pathogen is
present in the food, although most scientists still want to confirm the statistical
findings with actual microbial evidence. When we talk about numbers of cases,
then, these are statistical determinations that point to a specific food or group of
foods. Like any science it can be used well or poorly. An epidemiological finding
often overrides a negative outcome on an actual microbial test, even if none of
the pathogens found in the sick people (called "ills") are found in the suspected
food. If the epidemiological link is strong, that food is determined to be the
cause, or "linked". This is what happened to a case of outbreak in May of 1996
under investigation by the California Department of Health Services (CDHS). It
involved an outbreak of Salmonella linked to sprouts. The report was delivered
by Ben Werner from the Division of Communicable Disease Control of CDHS at
the 3rd annual Federal/State Conference on Food Safety in Washington, D.C.
4
Nov. 1997. In May of 1996 Werner states that California had an unusual
increase in Salmonella Montevideo up from the usual 15 or so to 117 cases. In
association Werner states they had "some increase" in Salmonella Meleagridis.
Three people had both together. Epidemiologically, it was discovered that
approx. 38% of the cases had eaten alfalfa sprouts compared with 11% of their
control group of healthy people. About 1/3 of those infected went to an
emergency room, so the infection must have been pretty severe. So they
arbitrarily selected 46 of the sick people and found that 17 of them had eaten
sprouts (38%). They traced the sprouts to a certain brand, and took seed from
this sprout facility to actually test for a culture of S. Montevideo. Many scientists
do not like to make official announcements until their links are confirmed
microbially. But they were unable to culture it from seed or sprouts in the
laboratory. And they did not find it in the growers own sprouts that were
packaged and ready for shipment. What they did find in the growers own
sprouts was S. Meleagridis, but by Werners own admission, they had only seen
what he refers to as "some increase" in that infection. The epidemiologists were
unable, in this outbreak, to substantiate their findings with microbial evidence.
So it would seem that S. Meleagridis, actually found in the sprouts had made a
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few people sick, but apparently many others who had eaten the sprouts and
presumably contracted this bacteria did not get sick at all. They did not try to
culture S. Meleagridis in the lab from sprouts or seed to determine if the
infection was coming from the seed itself or from inside the sprout facility the
way they tried to culture S. Montevideo. Is it possible that S. Montevideo, the
bacteria that was making 117 people sick enough to seek medical care was in
some other food? Is it possible that S. Meleagridis, the bacteria actually found in
the sprouts only made a FEW people sick enough to seek medical care, even
though many people had eaten those sprouts? We suspect, from the report
given by Werner and the obvious omissions which he easily glossed over, but
which on a 2nd or 3rd reading do not stand up to scrutiny that yes, the relatively
benign S. Meleagridis was what infected sprouts and the aggressive S.
Montevideo infected some other food that they never searched for! Is it possible
within microbial ecology that some Salmonella are more harmful than others
and that some peoples gut contains a mix of flora that can handle certain
infections without becoming the victim even noticing while others, due to the
flora makeup in their gut become deathly ill? Based on our very minimal
research into this incredibly deep subject we think it may be THE question that
deserves an answer. New or "emerging" pathogens are overwhelming our food
supply as the chain of distribution gets longer and longer, harvesting and
packaging practices leave much to be desired and bacteria mutate at a
staggering rate. This field of science is still in its infancy and some of the
epidemiological methods and microbial testing done today and the conclusions
drawn from their findings will be seen as crude and inaccurate in the next
decade. The California Health Services Department (CHSD) was well aware of
previous reports of sprout linked contamination in the years 1995-96 from this
country and internationally. Sprouts had the dubious honor of being on the
short list of pathogenic foods and we believe that CHSD was poised to attack.
They didnt exactly cook the numbers but we think theres room to suspect that
they grossly misinterpreted the results and no one took them to task, except us,
now, too late. This "outbreak" prompted a massive scale raid on sprout growers
throughout California and forced new sanitation procedures on them, most of
whom were conscientious in the first place and had been growing for years with
no problems. Huge recalls were issued whenever an outbreak of any serotype of
salmonella was discovered, whether sprouts could be linked to the outbreaks or
not. Sprouts in California were on the hit list and I can only imagine the angst
this type of wielding of power by the CHSD caused these growers. We were
very happy to be living and sprouting in progressive Wisconsin.
The story of this outbreak does not in our minds absolve this particular grower
of responsibility. He is what all sprout growers dread; the guy growing sprouts
in a plastic walled lean to, full of rodents and dirty workers. All of the sprout
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growers we know would be aghast at growing under these conditions, but the
next speaker on this subject, Jeff Farrar of CDHS launched a complex sanitation
program with the help of the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), the sprout
industry, State and Federal and local regulators to "help develop a solution to
this" . The "this" was one dirty sprout operation but Farrar was intent on
treating his discovery (the grower was raided by the Farrar swat team on a
Saturday at midnight with the help of the Salinas police, Farrar boasts in his
presentation) as indicative of all sprout growers. He obviously saw an
opportunity to make a name for himself on this issue and ran with it. He
created a situation where none existed and worked hard with slide shows and
hyperbole to scare officials into believing that all sprout growers are working in
filth like the one bozo in question. (Given the rise in food borne illness we think
local officials can be forgiven for overreacting they simply dont know what to
do and a guy like Farrar can just prey on them, especially when he can flash his
CDHS badge). A simple health department inspection could have shut this
particular sprout grower down, but instead the CDHS under Farrars direction
decided to go hunting butterflies with an elephant gun. Not only that, but we
think it is of key importance to note that in late 1996, the CDHS decided to hold
sprouters solely responsible for foodborne contamination in sprouts. The seed
producers protected by their agribusiness status would not have to be bothered
to find out if the contamination was coming from their end and would
therefore, not have to lift a finger. To their credit, some large sprouting seed
companies have taken the initiative and conducted their own tests on seed
sanitation, including radiation, which was found to kill the seed. I think we can
all breathe a sigh of relief for that.
Since the only leverage the FDA has against sprouts is to scare the public and
local health officials by painting them as a high risk food, the fear level will have
to be maintained or people will tend to forget. We expect the reports to
continue, one every few months or so, until either sprouts are no more or until
people realize that the FDA is making itself look ridiculous.
WHAT IS "RISK"
But we must define "risk" since the FDA repeatedly states that sprouts are a
high-risk food. In the worst outbreak of salmonella ever attributed to sprouts
(The 1995 96 outbreak detailed just above) approx. 700 cases were reported
(Remember only 38% of the randomly selected group had even eaten sprouts
and that the specific strains were basically ignored). Most salmonella infections
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Since not everyone who gets sick seeks medical attention, the FDA guessed that
20,000 people were actually infected. The media picked up that number and had
a field day (Culminating with the final report issued on a very busy news day in
January, 1999).
If there are only 20,000 sprout eaters in the country and they all got sick, thats
obviously a high-risk food. But according to the FDA there are 600 million
pounds of sprouts produced annually in the US alone. We assume
conservatively one quarter of the population is eating sprouts, or 70 million
people. FoodNet, the joint FDA/FSIS/CDC food surveillance group
corroborates that number. Seems reasonable based on our experience. (About 2
and one half ounces per week for those 70 million folks). So, based on the FDAs
highest estimate of 20,000 actual cases we get less than 1/300th of 1% of sprout
eaters was sickened. That means 1 person out of every 3,500 who ate sprouts in
1995-96 got salmonella. If we focus on this year (1999) of less than 200 cases, we
get an FDA guesstimate of 5,700 actual casesremember, they say 95% go
unreportedand we find only 1 person out of every 10,000 people who eat
sprouts will suffer any symptoms of salmonella poisoning. COMPARE THAT
WITH THE RISK OF ANY OTHER FOOD!!!
So thats the risk from eating sprouts. Lets also portray the risks of eating
sprouts in relation to the risks of eating other foods:
The Government agencies state that there are between 2 and 4 million cases of
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salmonella every year . By far the biggest outbreak ever attributed to sprouts
those 20,000 estimated cases in 1995-96, ACCOUNTS FOR A MINISCULE 1/2%
to 1% OF THE FDAS ESTIMATE OF 2 4 MILLION ANNUAL CASES. As
stated earlier, this year the FDA has stated "nearly 200" reported cases of people
getting sick due to salmonella linked to sprouts, which brings the FDA
guesstimate of actual cases to 5,700. If you do the math again, for this year the
percentage of sickness due to sprouts works out to 3/20ths of 1 % to 1/3 of 1%
of the FDAs estimate of total cases per year from all other foods. The FDA
claims 93% of all bacterial illness cases come from meat, poultry and dairy!
We do not want you to think us callous because we are not. We know each case
represents a person in need of medical care and we acknowledge that the sprout
and sprouting seed industry has a problem that needs to be identified and
solved but we would like to point out that the sprout industry is being dealt
with an absurdly heavy hand in relation to other food industries.
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Sprouts have not been blamed for any other illnesses this year including the
dread E. coli 0157 or Listeria, both much more damaging than salmonella and
both pervasive in meat, poultry and dairy! Absolutely NOWHERE in our
research did we find the FDA issuing press releases to avoid eating the foods
represented by the large food consortiums when outbreaks occur in those
industries. Where is the FDA when you really need themout playing golf with
their buddies on the Beef Council?!
The FDAs mission statement includes promoting healthy foods. This is from a
town meeting of USDA and FDA officials, citizen, consumer and industry
groups in December 1997 and is specifically in regards to fresh produce
(Sprouts were considered produce until mid 1998 when they were re-classified
as "processed food"). From FDA Regional Director Roger Lowell:
"The other thing that I think is important that I emphasize the protect part of
FDAs mission, but about two or three years ago the promote side came into our
mission" "And I see what we're doing here as a part of that role to try
to promote a better way to get these products onto the market so that they are
safer. We all understand that the agency has been promoting the consumption
of fresh produce. USDA has been promoting that for the health of the American
public. So we want to make sure that that message gets out that these are good
products. They are not harmful products. I know some people gave some
stories about people stopping using these products because they're afraid of
E.coli in the product, when the benefit of using the products far outweighs the
risks that may be there."
At the same "Town Meeting" the FDA encouraged commenting members of the
audience to give their names as opposed to remaining anonymous, assuring
them that "Food and Drug is kinder and gentler now .. there will be no
retaliation"
With its latest press release on the dangers of sprouts, the FDA demonstrates a
complete lack of commitment to its proclaimed mission and obvious confusion
about what that mission is. It lacks the vision and leadership to promote fresh
produce and help industry solve its problems.
We think the idea of an agency that has always been the cop of the food
industry suddenly becoming also a promoter of the food industry is a natural
conflict and does not work. You cannot expect the cops to give you the benefit of
the doubtthey are there to suspect you, not to promote youthats the nature of
the job and as it has to be.
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We cant rely on the FDA to promote our products but as an industry we dont
have a national or even a state to state professional organization to tell our side
of the story. The only organization for sprouts, the International Sprout Growers
Association in Amherst, Massachusetts is a joke. Case in point: the FDA
"strongly recommends" soaking sprout seeds in a bleach solution so strong it
needed EPA approval basically 1 part water to 1 part household strength
bleach and by their own admission they dont even know if it works, in fact
the CDHS says they doubt it works, yet the ISGA is absolutely groveling before
the FDA, scared to death of the power they wield, imploring all of its members
to use the bleach and everything will be alright. But nothing is even close to
alright. All sprout growers are on the verge of losing their businesses as the
entire industry gets pummled again and again with misleading press. They
dont understand that, like any industry, the sprout industry needs lobbyists
and a public relation firm on the payroll. Thats just the way it works. But they
think if they just kow tow to the FDA and bleach the hell out of everything in
sight, the FDA will reward them for their earnest compliance by leaving them
alone release to not eat sprouts. The president of the ISGA and owner of
Sniders Sprouts, Nancy Snider admitted to another sprout grower that she
dumps the bleach right into her stream in back of her house. She says her horse
drinks from it and "it hasnt hurt him at all". This is the mentality and
"leadership" we can look forward to from the only organization that represents
sprout growers! ." The ISGA has been totally sincere and complaint with the
FDA to the point of sycophantic and it has gotten them nowhere. The ISGA, in a
recent newsletter implored its membership for support so they can "negotiate"
with the FDA. They naively or perhaps arrogantly do not understand that they
lack the expertise and the influence to negotiate with powerful federal
government departments. The fact is Jane Henny of the FDA has just stabbed
Nancy Snider and the ISGA in the back with her latest press release on the
dangers of sprouts and they dont even seem to have noticed!
We have worked hard for over 6 years, building our little business from the
ground up. We have never had any pathogen problems. We are very clean
(using elbow grease and gallons of bleach to clean every surface we use
regularly) and over 99% of our seed comes from suppliers who test their seed
lots for pathogens. All of our sprouts are hand rinsed two or three times a day
and we believe, although we cannot prove it, that the oxygenation this process
supplies to the sprouts is a major factor in their remarkable shelf life and overall
health. We are Certified Organic even though many of the stores we supply
undermine organics by allowing conventional sprout growers to label their
product "organically grown" when theres nothing organic about them
(especially the use of appalling amounts of FDA recommended-EPA approved
bleach on their seed and then into the earth) . If we used the FDA recommended
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For further research, here is a short list of articles about food borne
contaminants and their web addresses:
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FIGHT BACK!
Dear
In July 1999 the FDA issued a press release warning people to stop eating sprouts
because of the health risk they pose.
The contamination links to sprouts are, in many cases dubious and the risk factor no
greater than that of any other food,
yet the FDA issues no advisories to stop eating other things that are linked to similar or
even greater risk.
The sprouting seed and sprout growing industries have been cooperating fully with the
FDA to locate sources of contamination and to find solutions where problems exist from
the time the first major outbreak was epidemiologically linked to sprouts in 1995. We
therefore ask that you help us to get the FDA to back off of their scare tactics and to
resume work on research to help this industry solve it's problems. There is not enough
known about food pathogens linked to sprouts at this point for the FDA to make such
dire statements. Press releases like this one only serve to ruin small sprout business,
most of whom have seen a 30% decrease in sales after a year and a half of bad press
from the FDA culminating in the July statement. Please encourage the FDA to adopt a
policy of fostering food industries and working with them to solve problems instead of
seeking to injure them by panicking the public
Sincerely,
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Sproutingly,
Gil Frishman
Lori Tooker
1993-2006
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Asimismo, hizo hincapi que ante el estilo de vida actual trae retos de mandar al mercado
productos ya listos para su consumo en forma rpida, esto ha supuesto el reto para la
empresa de hacer atractivo y fcil la ingesta de sus productos, por lo que se venden en
presentaciones de cajitas de plstico y con su tenedor incluido para que tengan todas las
facilidades para comerse. Adems, habl de las presentaciones estilo lunch para su consumo,
lo que incluye bolsitas con chile molido y varios aderezos, como el mil islas y el italiano.
Salvador Y Maldonado, Milenio
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En su valor nutritivo se parecen a las frutas y verduras, ya que, al igual que stas,
contienen gran cantidad de vitaminas -en especial A, B, C, E y K-, minerales,
enzimas y clorofila. El germinado de trigo, por ejemplo, contiene hasta seis veces
ms vitamina B que la semilla, y en la soja la vitamina C no aparece hasta que no
se ha producido la germinacin.
Tambin resultan muy atractivos si se mira su contenido en azcares simples, que
aportan energa y se asimilan fcilmente. El contenido en aminocidos tambin se
incrementa entre un 10% y un 30%, y lo mismo sucede con el hierro asimilable.
Esta composicin, hace que resulten idneos para estimular los procesos digestivos.
Su consumo se recomienda en casos de anemia y para personas con el estmago
delicado, que pueden comer legumbres cocinadas, pero s sus germinados.
Con las caloras justas
Adems, son alimentos que engordan muy poco porque aportan muy pocas
caloras. Las grasas y almidones de las semillas se transforman en carbohidratos
simples, protenas, vitaminas y minerales -especiamente fsforo-. Los brotes de
soja, por ejemplo, slo tienen 30 caloras por cada 100 gramos.
La otra gran ventaja de estos alimentos es que se pueden producir en casa. Se
almacenan y transportan fcilmente sin estropearse, no requieren mucho trabajo ni
dedicacin y tampoco son caros. El cultivo de germinados en nuestra propia casa
nos permite asegurarnos que los alimentos que consumimos estn libres de
pesticidas e insecticidas.
Los germinados se pueden consumir de diferentes maneras. Algunos tienen mejor
sabor cuando han sido cocinados, como sucede con la soja, cuyas protenas son as
an ms fciles de asimilar. Con ellos se pueden preparar tortillas, sopas de
verduras, purs, ensaladas, guarniciones para las carnes o pescados. Incluso se
puede aadir al relleno de un sandwich, como ingrediente en las salsas de tomate,
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Introduccin
Parece que ya los esenios coman germinados. No han quedado muchos restos por
su propia naturaleza, si hubieran consumido refrescos de cola en botella de plstico
quiz lo supiramos con ms certeza.
Pueden comerse crudos como ensalada, hervidos, en bocadillo,...como a Vd. se le
ocurra.
Parece que tienen muchas ms vitaminas que las semillas de donde proceden y
tienen pocas caloras. (S, las semillas se ponen a producir vitaminas cuando se las
remoja).
Al ser de fcil preparacin, puede ser una actividad que pueden realizar los nios
pequeos.
Al ser tan sencillo el procedimiento, Vd. mismo puede hacer experimentos y
variaciones.
Ingredientes:
Algn tipo de semillas y agua. Las semillas ms usadas son las pequeas: lentejas,
soja verde,... pero puede probar con cualquier cosa.
(No puede utilizar semillas irradiadas, porque claro, no germinarn).
Elaboracin: Parece natural utilizar semillas lo ms ecolgicas posible. Idem con el
agua, mejor de manantial que no del grifo. (Si es del grifo, djela unos das en un
envase antes de utilizarla para que salga el cloro).
El tamao al que hay que comerse los brotes vara con la semilla: la alfalfa o las
lentejas sacan brotes de 4 o 5 centmetros fcilmente y sin problemas. Con el trigo,
arroz, los brotes slo miden unos milmetros.
Hay dos procedimientos, el sencillo y el complicado:
Procedimiento sencillo:
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Cuando los brotes tengan una longitud de 2,3 o 4 centmetros ya se las puede
comer. (La longitud depende de cada semilla)
Si ha echado demasiada agua o se ha olvidado de las semillas y aparece moho
entre ellas, le recomendamos que las tire y vuelva a empezar. (Si no se olvida de
ellas durante unos cuantos das no es fcil que ocurra). Idem si por cualquier
motivo, huelen mal -se estn pudriendo-.
Antes de comer los brotes se lavan bien en un colador. (se pueden guardar varios
das en la nevera).
Para los viajes: Si debes viajar, puedes llevrtelas en un tarro. Al final del viaje las
vuelves a depositar en un plato, y ya est.
Ventajas de este procedimiento: Hay que trabajar muy poco cada da: slo mirarlos
y reponer el agua si es preciso. Las semillas no tienen nunca contacto con plsticos.
Se pueden hacer cantidades industriales de forma sencilla. Las semillas se lo pasan
bien jugando todo el da y cantando sin que las vea ni oiga nadie.
Procedimiento complicado:
Compre un germinador de los varios tipos que venden en las tiendas ecolgicas y
siga las instrucciones.
O fabrqueselo Vd. mismo con un bote de cristal y una tapa agujereada.
Hay que echar unas semillas en el bote (poca cantidad), cerrarlo, echar agua dentro
y luego escurrir varias veces.
Despus de esta operacin se deja inclinado en un lugar oscuro.
Hay que repetir la operacin de lavado y escurrido varias veces al da ( de dos a
cuatro).
Inconvenientes de este procedimiento: Hay que conseguir un germinador o
hacrselo uno mismo. Las semillas pueden estar en contacto con plstico bastante
tiempo. Y sobre todo: el acordarse varias veces al da es demasiado laborioso.
Para una cosa que podemos hacer de forma sencilla !
Adems, las semillas, al estar en una posicin inclinada, tienden a agolparse las
unas sobre las otras. Estn en un ambiente ms cerrado. (Quiz para otras latitudes
sea necesario).
Detalles a no olvidar
Al germinar soja verde pueden quedar semillas sin germinar (o incluso piedras).
Cuidado al comerlas, estn muy duras!.
La temperatura afecta bastante al su desarrollo (y puede detenerlo). La
temperatura debe rondar los 20. Quiz haya otros factores (la luna) que tambin
pueden afectar. Vd. lo ir comprobando.
El cultivo de races no es ninguna novedad. Es una prctica muy antigua. Ya los
chinos las conocan. De hecho, cuando de tribus vegetarianas pioneras se habla, es
de rigor mencionar a los esensios.
Posteriormente, Ann Wigmor y Christian Challer, simultneamente, programaron el
mtodo de alimentacin viviente.
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Hoy en da en diversos lugares se cultivan los brotes tiernos y hacen germinar las
semillas para alimentar reses y animales de engorde, explic Riviere.
Sus bondades
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Girasol:
La alfalfa y lenteja tambin forman parte de este grupo con un alto valor nutritivo.
La germinacin en la historia
Los granos y legumbres recin germinados tienen una gran cantidad de clorofila,
vitaminas, minerales, oligoelementos y otras sustancias vitales. Entre las vitaminas
pueden ponerse como ejemplo las contenidas en los brotes de trigo: A, B, B6, B12
(difcil de encontrar en los vegetales), B17, C, E, cido flico, pantotnico, adems
de colina. Tambin poseen calcio, hierro, magnesio, cobre, cinc, yodo, potasio junto
con los aminocidos esenciales que el cuerpo necesita para formar las protenas
necesarias para restaurar sus tejidos.
Los germinados constituyen uno de los mejores alimentos que la naturaleza nos ha
dado. De poderoso efecto regenerador y curativo, se dice que el jugo de brotes
impide el desarrollo del cncer, ayuda a corregir la anemia, equilibra la presin
arterial, alivia el estreimiento, aumenta la actividad hormonal, hace que
desaparezcan las canas y por sobre todas estas propiedades ayudan a desintoxicar
el organismo de muchos agentes contaminantes presentes en nuestro medio
ambiente.
Un buen nmero de cientficos ha publicado sus descubrimientos sobre el valor de
los brotes como alimento y es bien amplia la literatura de que se dispone en la
actualidad como para no dudar de la necesidad de introducir la prctica de la
germinacin en nuestra vida cotidiana.
Sugerencias
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Cada vez hay ms mdicos y profesionales que lo aconsejan a sus pacientes ya que nutre y depura nuestro
organismo al mismo tiempo.
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Es ese el "secreto" de porque se recomienda en cualquier enfermedad. Por supuesto cuanto ms grave es la
enfermedad ms necesitamos de alimentos que nos aporten muchos nutrientes pero que no dejen residuos en
nuestro maltrecho organismo.
Hemos de tener en cuenta que es rico en protenas (contiene 16 aminocidos), vitaminas y minerales.
Adems es muy curiosa su similitud con la sangre humana. Una de las nicas diferencias entre la clorofila y la
hemoglobina es que la molcula de clorofila contiene magnesio como ncleo central, mientras que la
hemoglobina contiene hierro.
Su riqueza en clorofila ayuda a eliminar toxinas de nuestro organismo. Algunas personas con fuerte olor
corporal observan que a las pocas semanas de tomarlo ha desaparecido ese olor.
Mdicos y cientficos de todo el mundo lo recomiendan en enfermedades tan diversas como Anemias, Cncer,
Diabetes, Fatiga crnica o simplemente estreimiento.
No pretendemos decir que vale para curarlo todo sino simplemente que puede ser un buen aliado ante la
enfermedad.
Dos cucharaditas al da es la dosis que se recomienda habitualmente aunque no se conoce ningn problema por
tomar ms.
Recordad que comer cada da germinados es un regalo de salud para nuestro cuerpo.
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MARCAS
Bsicamente se aplican tratndose de personas fsicas o morales (empresas
comerciales) dedicadas a la fabricacin y venta de diversos productos o que
prestan determinados servicios y que han diseado una imagen que los
distingue de su competencia en diferentes niveles.
Si Usted desarroll una reputacin y realiza ventas repetidas de su producto o
servicio, sera desastroso si un competidor pudiese vender un producto similar
que pudiese ser confundido con el suyo. Para ms informacin lea sobre las
ventajas de una marca registrada.
Al usar una marca -- una seal distintiva la cual identifica su producto o servicio
exclusivamente -- usted desarrolla lealtad hacia su producto. Adems puede
usted licenciar o franquiciar su producto y/o servicio y cobrar regalas sobre sus
ventas. En caso de un abuso por parte de un competidor, una marca registrada
le da bases slidas para su defensa legal.
Una marca es un signo que distingue un servicio o producto de otros de su
misma clase o ramo. Puede estar representada por un trmino, un smbolo,
logotipo, diseo o signo, o una combinacin de estos. Para efectos del registro
de marcas deben distinguirse los tipos y las clases de marcas.
La ley de la propiedad industrial reconoce cuatro tipos diferentes de marcas:
MARCAS NOMINATIVAS
Las nominativas, son las marcas que identifican un producto o servicio a partir
de una palabra o un conjunto de palabras. Estas marcas deben distinguirse
fonticamente de los productos o servicios de su misma especie. Es decir, no
deben tener semejanza con marcas que pertenezcan a productos o servicios
de su misma especie o clase.
Ejemplo: NIKE. Al tratarse de una marca para calzado y ropa deportiva esta
marca pertenece a la clase 25.
MARCAS INNOMINADAS
Las marcas innominadas, son figuras o logotipos que diferencan visualmente a
una marca. Es decir, son figuras distintivas que no pueden reconocerse
fonticamente, slo visualmente.
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Ejemplo:
Como en el ejemplo anterior, al tratarse de una marca para calzado y ropa
deportiva esta marca pertenece a la clase 25.
Registra tu marca!
MARCAS MIXTAS
Las marcas mixtas, son el resultado de la combinacin de tipos definidos en los
prrafos anteriores. En la mayoria de los casos son combinaciones de palabras
con diseos o logotipos.
Ejemplo:
Como en el ejemplo anterior, al tratarse de una marca de calzado y ropa
deportiva esta marca pertenece a la clase 25.
Registra tu marca!
MARCAS TRIDIMENSIONALES
Las marcas tridimensionales, corresponden a la forma de los productos o sus
empaques, envases o envoltorios, siempre y cuando sean caractersticos y los
distingan de productos de su misma clase. Es decir, las marcas
tridimensionales corresponden a cuerpos con 3 dimensiones, como botellas,
empaques, cajas, estuches, etc.
Ejemplo:
En este caso la marca pertenece a la clase 32.
Registra tu marca!
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marca colectiva.
Registra tu marca!
AVISOS COMERCIALES
Tienes en mente un slogan o una campaa publicitaria que sirva para
distinguir un producto y/o servicio?
Entonces debers registrar dicha frase o slogan como un aviso comercial.
Los avisos comerciales son frases que tienen como objetivo el distinguir un
producto inclusive sin mencionar la marca, en diversas campaas publicitarias,
tal sera el caso de JUST DO IT! frase que sin mencionarlo nos refiere a la
marca NIKE, otro ejemplo sera A QUE NO PUEDES COMER SOLO UNA!
que nos refiere a la marca SABRITAS.
Registra tu aviso comercial!
NOMBRES COMERCIALES
Tu empresa tiene una denominacin que la distinga, sin que se utilicen los
nombres de los socios?
En este caso se trata de un Denominacin Comercial que puede ser publicada
en la Gaceta del IMPI.
El nombre de tu empresa est formado con el de uno de sus socios, con los
de algunos o con todos?
En este caso se trata de una Razn Social que tambin puede ser publicada en
la Gaceta del IMPI. Los nombres comerciales no reQuiren de un registro ante
el IMPI, sin embargo se recomienda su publicacin en la Gaceta de dicho
Instituto, a fin de que se presuponga la buena fe de su uso y se asegure no
estar infringiendo derechos de propiedad industrial de terceros.
Registre su marca!
El registro de una Marca le brinda muchas ventajas. Usted puede licenciar o
franquiciar su producto y cobrar jugosas regalas. En caso de un abuso de su
marca (Piratera, difamacin etc.) usted cuenta con fundamentos slidos
legales para su defensa. Antes de proceder le recomendamos lea nuestra
introduccin a las marcas. El registrar una marca consta de tres pasos:
Paso 1
Verificar si la marca ya se encuentra registrada mediante una bsqueda
de anterioridades ante el Instituto Mexicano de la Propiedad Industrial.
Por favor llene este formato.
Paso 2
Presentar la solicitud correspondiente a su clase de productos y/o
servicios ante el Instituto Mexicano de la Propiedad Industrial en la(s)
clase(s) que sean necesarias.
Paso 3
Titulacin de la marca. El plazo que maneja el IMPI es de 6 a 8 meses,
siempre y cuando el Instituto no haga observaciones a la solicitud.
Clases de Marcas
Es importante saber cuales son las clases de productos o servicios que quiera
amparar con el registro de su marca.
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Tipos de Marcas
Consulte los diferentes tipos de marcas.
Marcas Comunitarias en la Unin Europea
Si Usted desea exportar su producto a la comunidad europea registre su marca
comunitaria y proteja su marca en los quince pases de la Unin Europea que
comprenden: Austria, Blgica, Dinamarca, Francia, Alemania, Grecia, Irlanda,
Italia, Luxemburgo, Los Pases Bajos, Portugal, Espaa, Suecia, El Reino
Unido y Finlandia. Verifique si su marca esta disponible en la Union Europea
GRATUITAMENTE, gracias a nuestra alianza con Marcanet.com. Haga click
aqu
Sproutable Seeds
Most seeds can be sprouted and eaten but avoid sprouting any seeds from plants that
may have poisonous parts. Common seeds for sprouting include alfalfa, fenugreek,
lentils, peas, radish, and red clover. Mung beans have been sprouted in Asia for
thousands of years, but take more equipment and time than other seeds. Other less
common seeds include cabbage, broccoli, garbanzos, mustard seed, and quinoa. Most
grains can grow chlorophyll rich grass crops in soil, and grains without hulls can be
used as short sprouts. Save garden seeds (radish is easy, just let them go to seed and
harvest when dry and ripe). Caragana seeds make delicious sprouts. Spread a blanket or
tarp by the bushes just before the pods pop open to catch the seeds.
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If you collect your own garden seeds, make sure to dry them and store them in a clean
and rodent free environment.
For more information on the relative risks of sprouts compared to other foods, see this
article by the Sproutman, Steve Meyerowitz. I feel that home grown sprouts, especially
grown from certified organic seed are far safer than a hamburger or potato salad at a
picnic.
By Carroll J. MacIntosh
E-mail: info@evergreenjuices.com
Web Site: Evergreenjuices
You might find this interesting. My father is a retired minister and he started growing
wheatgrass juice in Canada over 14 years ago. It started out just for ourselves but then we
grew to serve many health food stores and restaurants. We also sold the juicers.
There are a couple things that always bothered us about the juice and that is the reactions
many people (including us) had after drinking the juice, such as nausea and headaches
within seconds after drinking. We were always told that this was "detoxification". Then we
had a lady break out in hives all over her body within minutes after drinking.
We were also told that this was just a strong detoxing symptom. Howvever we just
couldn't buy the story anymore. Nausea and headaches and especially hives are a
reaction to something, not detoxification. There is no other herb or juice concoction that
makes you detox within seconds with these strong reactions. What we did trace it to is
the mold that grows on the trays. Mold is highly toxic and can cause instant reactions
such as headaches and nausea and even hives. The mold comes from the seeds that don't
germinate, and that is why some trays are better than others. We tried using hydrogen
peroxide and colidial silver and even picking out the ungerminated seeds with tweezers.
We also noticed that those with candida got much worse after drinking wheatgrass juice.
(Sugar and mold will set it off.)
So after being indoor growers of wheatgrass juice for over seven years, we decided that
we couldn't serve any more knowing that all the so called detoxing symptoms were
reactions to the mold. We shut the whole thing down.
The following spring my dad was visiting a farmer friend and his winter wheat was
coming up. For the fun of it, he cut down a bunch and juiced it. He couldn't believe the
difference in the taste!!! Smooth and mild tasting and no sugary/bitter taste. He kept
drinking it until he had finished a whole glass. And guess what? NO REACTIONS. We
have done a bunch of testing and found that:
A. In the process of growing winter wheat, the frost kills the mold on the
ungerminated seeds, thus no mold.
B. Also the chlorophyll is much higher because it is in the sun.
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C. The simple sugars in the indoor sprouts cannot mature enough to change
into complex carbohydrates, and that is why it is sweet like syrup.
Outdoor grass matures just before the jointing stage and creates a smooth
grass taste.
D. It is in the ground for over 200 days compared with 7 - 10 days indoors.
At great expense we now have an organic farm in Ontario, where we plant winter wheat
and harvest it in the spring. We have about three weeks per year to do this. We chill it in
1 1/2 minutes to just above freezing and then it is packaged and frozen. Lab reports
show little change in the nutrients even after up to three years in the freezer. Freezing
doesn't harm it, it is heat that does.
Our work now is trying to convince those who have sworn off wheatgrass juice, because
of past reactions, to try it again. A good example of this is Ernest who owns Rainbow
Bridge store in Ojai, CA. (805) 646-4017. His reaction to indoor grown wheatgrass was
with his throat swelling up to the point where it was hard to breathe. At the Expo West
show in Anaheim, I met him and explained why he reacted to it. I convinced him to try
our wheatgrass and with a shaking hand he did. He couldn't believe this was wheatgrass
juice. It tasted so different. He was waiting for a reaction, that never happened. He is
now so sold on our wheatgrass juice, that he confidently sells it to his clients.
My dad met Ann Wigmore once after he shut down the indoor growing system and he
asked her about growing outside. Her answer was "I never thought of it before". I am
sure you are familiar with Steve Meyerwitz. He totally believes in what we are doing
and in the revision of his book put a page in about us. Pine Wheatgrass also is
supportive. They understand the importance of winter wheat.
We know that most who grow wheatgrass don't realize that the mold can make their
clients sick. The body will usually try to tell us when it doesn't like something, but often
people think that they are doing something good by taking it. I have heard so many
people tell me that it got to the point where they would bring the wheatgrass up to their
mouths, but they just couldn't drink it anymore. But with outdoor grown wheatgrass
juice the body absorbs it and people feel good.
I have been trying to get the frozen wheatgrass people to acknowledge the fact that the
myceal mold from sprouted wheatgrass berries is not harmful. MMI Pathology
Laboratories in Georgia, U.S.A., rans tests several years ago on the topical mold
ocurring in the trays of wheatgrass that is grown certified and state inspected. (See
attached report). Here in Florida this is our 6th year producing. Our product is not at all
pathengenic (harmful) to humans. You are what you eat and freeze dried or frozen
wheatgrass juice will never replace the power of fresh and since we drink the sprouted
grass and not the berry. We grow a premium product. If you have candy bars,
barbituates, antibiotics, boooze, cancer, you will purge from fresh wheatgrass every
time. With frozen, you will not de-tox that way because we grow a fresh crop every
week not every 200 days and freeze it.
Please note: Results reported here are based on material submitted to MMI for analysis.
All pathology evaluations are subject to the normal limitations of laboratory accuracy.
No other warranty is expressed or implied by MMI and its employees or associates.
MMI is liable only for the purchase price of the services rendered. Failure to recover a
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microorganism from a sample does not establish the field or commodity represented by
that sample to be free of that organism. MMI and its employees and associates do not
recommend use of specific chemicals and only list chemicals (if applicable) that are
reported as useful in the literature. Be certain any chemical you use is approved for your
crop under the conditions in which you intend to use the chemical. Check with your
extension agent and/or chemical supplier for suitability of use under your growing
conditions before using any chemical on your crop.
SYMPTOMS: Mycelial growth on media surface
I. FUNGUS TEST RESULTS (1): Probable slime mold (surface mycelial growth)
Rhizopus sp. (surface mycelial growth)
Pythium sp. (slight infection, scattered seedlings)
DIAGNOSIS: A probable slime mold was identified on the media surface of the wheat
grass flat. The profuse growth over the entire flat and numerous sporangiophores can be
characteristic of slime molds. Slime molds may grow at a very fast rate and cover entire
surfaces, but slime molds are not pathogenic. Slime molds use the plants for support but
do not penetrate the tissue. The profuse growth observed on the flat was easily removed
from the seeds, lower stems, and roots of the plants. No penetration of plant tissue was
observed. Slime molds are favored by wet environments and feed on dead organic
matter. Rhizopus sp. also was identified in the surface growth. Rhizopus is a ubiquitous
fungus that grows profusely in high humidity environments. Rhizopus generally is only
a problem in storage rot situations, and the fungus has not been reported to be
pathogenic on wheat seedlings.
Pythium sp. was observed in the root tissue of selected seedlings. The Pythium infection
appeared slight and was confined to discrete root sections of smaller seedlings. No
pathogenic fungi were identified on the majority of the seedlings.
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EASYGREEN.COM
Seeds
OUR SEEDS ARE GUARANTEED FOR FRESHNESS. WE WILL REFUND OR EXCHANGE IF YOU ARE
NOT 100% SATISFIED. FREE shipping for seed orders over $120!
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Sprouting neutralizes phytic acid, which if present will not allow as much
calcium, magnesium, iron, copper and zinc to be absorbed during digestion
It also increases the amount of B vitamins and carotene
Vitamin C is created in the process of sprouting
complex sugars responsible for intestinal gas are broken down
Sprouting also inactivates aflatoxins, which are potent carcinogens found in
grains
During sprouting additional enzymes are produced during the germination
process that help digestion
heatgrass Benefits
Wheatgrass is one of the most potently healthy substances on earth. Yet for some reason it
is still not mainstream even though there are thousands of wheatgrass benefits that are so
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clear and felt so quickly. Since Ive been using wheatgrass Ive noticed my energy levels go
sky high, my skin clear up and colds, coughs and illnesses disappear forever and these are
just a few of the wheatgrass benefits Ive noticed! Others have seen their gray hairs vanish,
Rosacea clear up, bad breath subside, allergies clear up and a whole lot more.
Wheatgrass benefits are so easy to achieve and feel because:
3. Wheatgrass Benefits #3: Wheatgrass Has High Amino Acid Content:: You
may have heard the expression before that amino acids are the building blocks
of protein. They are absolutely essential to our growth and cell regeneration. It is
the astonishingly high amino acid content in wheatgrass that is leading to many
bodybuilders and gym-goers incorporating fresh (a wheatgrass shot) or
wheatgrass powder into their daily routine.
Wheatgrass benefits are so impactful because it is a complete protein and contains,
amongst others, the following amino acids: arginine, serine, absenisic, lysine,
aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, methionine, leucine, tryptophane, phenylalanine, and
valine.
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It is also good to aim for a mix of grasses, alongside wheatgrass to get an even wider range
of health benefits.
Here are my top three wheatgrass supplements:
Sweet Wheat: This is the original and probably the best organic freeze dried wheatgrass
powder on the market.
The best wheatgrass powder benefit is that it contains ONLY the juice and provides an
extraordinary balance of all the vital nutrients and minerals the body can use. One teaspoon
of Sweet Wheat is roughly equivalent to one to two ounces a fresh wheatgrass shot. One
ounce of wheatgrass juice equals the nutritional equivalent of 1.5 pounds of organic
vegetables.
[click here to find out more]
Dr Youngs Power Plants: Dr Young is the world authority on the alkaline diet, so when he
makes supplements, you tend to sit up and notice. This is a 4th generation green drink (he
created the 1st too SuperGreens) containing high quantities of wheatgrass, alongside
barley grass, shave grass, dog grass and the powdered juice of vegetables such as broccoli,
celery, spinach and more.
This stuff works, it gives you a real buzz and it tastes light, fresh and summery!
[click here to find out more]
MegaGreens: a highly concentrated blend of 34 superfoods, 17 amino acids, vegetables,
minerals, vitamins, omega oils, enzymes and more that will completely revolutionise your
training. The dense hit of nutrients from each serve delivers instant and sustained energy
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and provides your body with the tools it needs for weight loss, muscle growth, rehydration,
repair and replenishment.
By infusing your body with easily absorbed nutrients, omega oils & amino acids (and with
only 3 calories per serve) Mega Greens gives your body the fuel it needs to burn fat and
build muscle.
[click here to find out more]
Fresh Wheatgrass
Buying your wheatgrass fresh from a juice bar is also a great way to get your wheatgrass
health fix! Make sure they snip and juice the grass right in front of you though! Ive seen
some sneaky bars in Sydney having it delivered, already juiced! Pretty much all of the
benefits are gone if you dont have it fresh.
Having your wheatgrass freshly juiced is a great way to feel the instant energy hit, it is so
noticeable!
Growing Your Own Wheatgrass
And finally, you can grow and juice your own! This is great fun, not all that time consuming,
and not all that expensive either! All you need are:
Some space
Wheatgrass seeds
Sprouting trays or an automatic sprouter (such as an EasyGreen)
Patience
A pair of scissors
A masticating or manual juicer
In that order.
Note, you cant grow wheatgrass in a standard sprouter (such as this) and you cant
juice wheatgrass in a standard juicer (such as this). But having said that, the
masticating juicers (such as this Hurom) are far better quality in my opinion anyway,
you youre better off buying one of these anyway.
So there you have it! Can you think of any reason not to start having your daily wheatgrass
juice? The wheatgrass benefits and ease of use make it a pretty simple decision!
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