THE

ADVENTURES

AND

SKETCHES

ANDALUSIAS

BY

DANIEL

WEBSTER

OF

THE

AUTHOR

AND

NEW
HARPER
"fc 331

COTEMPORARIES.'

YORK:
"

82"

HIS

OP

BROTHERS,

PEARL

1856.

STREET.

SPAIN.

Entered,

according

to

Act

in

Congress,

of

1S56,

the

by

year

HARPER

In

the

Clerk's

Office

of

"fc

the

Court

District

of

BROTHERS,

New

York.

of

the

Southern

District

Annex

DP

H-l

PREFACE.

PASSING

months

summer

in

villagein New

shire"a
Hamp-

let me
which, from its
village,
say parenthetically,
minds
houses, w ell-cultivated farms, and pleasant scenery, reOld
of
me
more
England than any other country town

nice

I have
for

the

New

in

seen

England

occupationmostly

write
and

out

the

been

upon

comparatively but
The

tourist.
the United
of their
who

being

have

of

and

to

the

always speak with

pleasure they derived

the

American

has

or

eral
gen-

between
the

reason

The

countrymen.

visited them
of

which

is doubtless

our

to

in Madeira

communication

countries

little known

so

by

regular

those

residence

part of the world

"

short

I concluded

resources,

little visited

want

States

of

Peninsula

European

being necessarilythrown

own

my

recollections

some

and

"

few

edgment
gratefulacknowlfrom

the

tour

or

sojourn.
Two
John

of
Van

eminent

most

our

Buren

passed a

"

citizens
winter

in
conferringgreat gratification
the best

written

book

upon

the

General

"

in

and

Mr.

Madeira, receivingand

their

island

Dix

The

visit.

former

put forth

ever

has
out
with-

"

details ; in a chaste,
pretension,and yet full of interesting
lucid,and concise style; and has created a desire among
those

whose

participate in
to know

reason

to visit

While
no

dalusias, or

as

it doubtless

books

many

have

that treats
southern

reflect Andalusia

education

for
qualifythem
keenly relished.

enjoyments he so
that his pleasant narrative

Madeira,

one

and

means

as

been

is,or

My
I have

Spain, I

lect
recol-

more.

upon

sketches
failed

have
many

particularlyand personallyof
part.

it

written

to

induced

has

will many

travel

and
in my

the

An-

adventures

attempt.

PREFACK.

IV

make

claims

no

daily

to

there

Indeed,

"

Spain

divided

province

the
of

of

literature

disturb

themselves;

another
would

he

that
rash

be

resting

supremacy

Our

own

Ticknor

had
"

romance,
and

done.
and

Prescott,

among

proper

experience.

own

be

to

and

manners

my

left

Irving,

Triumvirate

American

from

else

nothing

was

delineate

to

transcripts

by

occurrences

but

thing

any

history,

of

the

and

who

indeed

upon

appropriating

one

the

last,

undertook

incontestable

to

title

of

genius.
I

so,

have
I

and

aimed

not

should

have

not

would

ability

interesting

of

in

Europe,
Let

the

of

as

the

have

the

of

subject
to

the

southern
there

go

done

endeavored

attractions

think

Both

attempt.

the

traveler

Had

book.

But

me.

idea,

faint

is.

decidedly

Spain

ambitious

an

failed

some

part

make

succeeded
have

others

to

convey

to

most

of

part

and

for

judge

himself.
However

it
be

respects
sure

six
and

by

have

spot

hereditary

GREENLAND,

with

commensurate

pleasantest
on

whether

be"

may

had

reward.

my
months

in

endeared

to

Nov.

1st,

my
me

1855.

life
above
the

of
"

have
in

lived

over

writing
all

poetry

that

in

success

intents

my

and

associations

my

the

of

other

or

thing

one

the

out

their

rest

of

childhood.

am

perhaps
history;
the

world

(J 0

S.

I.

CHAPTEE

PAGE

from

Start

Isle

the

at

at

Southampton

"

Channel

the

Expected

"

Santo"

Porto

Wight""

of

in

Storm

Another

Storm"

ner
DinArrival

Madeira

.13
...

CHAPTER

of

Season

Island

and

Madeira

England

Kesources

Its
"

II.

"

contrasted

City

of

The

Funchal

of

Agreeabilities

"

Fair

the

Sex

24

"

CHAPTER

The

Garden

and

do

Plaza

Landed

III.

Establishment

Constitutiao

"

of

The

Canons

the

of

34

and

walks

Funchal

near

Cumacha

IV.

The

Description

"

Mount

Longevity
of

of

and

Quinta

the

Arrival
"

Island
"

at

St.

The

Youth
"

various

41

V.

Fecundity

precocious

fall
"Water-

"

of

Mendicancy

Madeira
"

Ill-repaid

CHAPTER

of

The

Church

"

CHAPTER

Tour

The
"

Proprietors

"

The

"

Church

Romish

the

The

Consul

American

CHAPTER

Rides

dote
Anec"

Labor

.49
.

VI.

Productions

The

different

Peaks

"

Anna

56
.

VI

CONTENTS.

CHAPT

VII.

BE

PAGE

Ascent

of Pico

of the

Kuivo

View

"

Torrinhas"

The

from

Summit

the

Vintage

kinds

The

"

66

Madeira

the

Grape

The

"

various

'.74

CHAPTER
of President

Arrival

"

VIII.
of

Origin

of Wine

Jorge

Pass

Curral

Great

CHAPTER
The

Sao

"

Roberts

Account

of Liberia"

between

the

IX.

and

Its Trade

United

and

States

of the

Dinner

"

Consul

Line

Prosperity"
Western

the

CHAPTE

Mr.

"

Roberts'

of Steamers

Coast

.87

X
.

Doubts

of the

nicians

The

"

the Island

Discovery of

Romance,

"

Plutarch's

perhaps true,

of

The

Story
"

Phe-

Machin

Robert

and

D'Arfert

Anne

94

CHAPTER

Departure
Lisbon

"

XI.

from

Madeira

First

Interrogatory

of

Entrance

"

there

"

the

Tagus
Monopolies

"The

Police

"

Lisbon

"

"

Torres

Palace
Vedras

Quinta

"

"

Service

"

Carriages
105

CHAPTER
Cintra

Military

Consort

King

Queen"

XII.

Taxation

"

of

view

Arrival

"

CHAPTER
Vexatious

First

"

of

Coimbra

XIII.
John

de

Story

"

Castro

of Inez

"

de

Panoramic
Castro

"

View

"

Oporto

Ill

CHAPTERXIV.

Early History of Portugal

The
Recapture of Lisbon
"

under

Dom

Manuel

and

Roman

The

by
Dom

the

Domination
Crusaders

Henrique

"

"

The

The

Arabs

"

Discoveries
123

vii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

XT.
PAGE

Arrival

Cadiz

at

Robbers

Hotel

"

Blanco

Cigar Manufactory

"

Olla

"

Podrida

for the

Asylum

"

Maria

Xeres

Xeres

"

Table

"

Gaetano

Establishment

Domecq's

d'Hote"

Delicias"

Las

Wines

"

of

Outside

the

Don

Walls"

161

XVIII.

Cathedral"

The

of

Study

"

Murillo

"

133

XVII.

Dolores"

Bull-fight

CHAPTER

Museo

Peickler

Mass"

Dolores

151

CHAPTER

High

Poor

XVI.

CHAPTER
Seville

"

to Seville

Journey

"

Pedro

"

Muchachas
.

CHAPTER
San

The

"

Spanish

.170

XIX.
The

"

Alcazar

Casa

"

Baile

Spanish Courtesy

"

"

de

The

"

Pilatos

French

"

El

ing-master
Danc185

CHAPTER
The

Friar

Franciscan

"The

Visit

"

Dolores

to

Cathedral"

The

Giralda"

XX.
Her

"

The

Drive

CHAPTER
Mr.

Peickler

Haunt

on

Gipsies
"

Their

Gipsies
"

"

Our

of

views
around

Confession

the

City

XXI.
WalktoTriana

Eye

"

Chastityof

"

Washington Irving's
the Girls
The Gipsy
"

Dance

213

CHAPTER
Ride
"

to

Cordova

Ecija
"

"

Cordova

Carmona
"

Its

XXII.
"

La

Luisiana

History
"

The

CHAPTER
A

196

short

Exordium"

of her

Life

Dolores"

"

Adventure

Mosque

at

Posada
228

....

XXIII.
The

Theater"

Catalina"

The

Story
250

I*

CONTEXTS.

XXIV.

CHAPTER

PAGE

the

and

Danger Scipio Africanus

Author

the

Steamer

Voyage to Cadiz, and Arrival

Gibraltar,and Voyage

"

for

Departure

Polioreetes

Demetrius

greater than

The

encountered

Author

CHAPTER
Gibraltar"
Cave"

The

Guides

San

"

of

for

Ronda-

the Moorish

and

"

"Wild-Boar

"

La Casa

Moonlit

"

Del

Scenery

Start

Raisins

of

Grenada

Grandson
ite Present

Fonda

Ximenea"

Epitome

The

"

Moor

Alhambra"

Fair

The

"

"

Fruit

"

I.

Malaga
cracking

at

Muchachas

"

of

My

Arrival

the

"

Alhambra

Visit to the
The

"

Alhambra

Influence

"
"

of

El

Irving
358

Francisco"

XXX.
The

Hill

of the

Story" The Generaliffe"

Spanish History

Tangier*" His
The

"

Condition

de San

from

Almonds

XXIX.

His
of

ducts
Pro-

Its

"

336

CHAPTER
The

Moro

for Grenada

CHAPTER

P6p""

Story

"

Hog-Funcion

"

Arrival

"

CHAPTER

upon

Rey

XXVII

Robber-cave

"

"

Nieto"

Gancin

317

Sheep"
Vintage

Vega

"

Hunt

Alameda"

The

.285

XXVII.

CHAPTER

"

Michael's

St.
.

Companion

PTER
Tower

Alameda

Bull-Fight

Departure

"

297

CHA
from

of Cadiz

Ronda

Pcpe"

View

on

XXTI.

Costume

My

"

Bock"

Roque

CHAPTER
Start

"

264

The

Monkeys"
Rides

"

Breakfast

"

History

"

Spain

XXT.

and

Officers

English

in

Moorish

and

La

Alhambra"

Silla del

Mateo
Moro"

An
373

XXXI.
Dress"

The

Former

Glories

Christian ReligionsCompared

of the
393
.

CONTEXTS.

CHAPTER

XXXII.
PAGE

Archbishop's

The

Ferdinand

The

Palace"
Isabella

and

Cathedral"

French

Grenada

of

Royal

Occupation

"

Society

The

ChapelInfluence

and

"

Alameda

The

397

"

CHAPTER

BoabdiTs

Gate"

XXXIII.

Story

Pepe's

of

Haunted

the

Tower

.405
.

CHAPTER

Bide

to

El

de

Picacho

El

The
"

Prevesin"

The

The

Venta"

Copita

of

Vileta"

Robbers

The

at

XXXIV.

la

"

of

Ascent

The

Immaculate

Aguardiente

Picacho

The

ception
ConThe

"

Night

View

The

"

turn
Re-

"

.415
.

CHAPTER

old

Man

The

Mendicancy

XXXV.

with

Crutches

The

Beggars'

"

"

The

Hag"

Muchacha"

The

CHAPTER

"with

Life

Traditions

Peculiar
"

Frolic

The
"

Contrabandista

.431
.

Sympathy

XXXVI.

and

Superstitions

Institutions
"

Cheapness

Freshness

of

"

of

Living

"

My

ish
Spanparture
De443

VIEW

FUNCHAL

SEA

FROM

OF

FRONTISPIECE.

THE
"

"

II.

RAVINE

SAO

OF

JORGE

68

"

in.

WINE

BRINGING

TO

MARKET

GOAT-SKINS

76

ix

"

IV.

HAULING

WINE

ON

SLEDGE

OXEN

WITH

79

"

V.

THE

SEVILLE.

MAJO

175

OF

"

VL

DOLORES

CHURCH.

KNEELING

186

IN

"

VII.

JOSE,

THE

BANDIT

RETIRED

299

"

VIII."

RONDA

XL

313

CUCHARES

BCLL
AND

329

THE
:

X.

THE

ALHAMBRA

361

THE

BEGGAR.

418

THE

SMUGGLES.

"

XI.
"

XII."

.'
441
,

CHAPTER

START

FROM

AT

SOUTHAMPTON"

THE

ISLE

OF

WIGHT"

I.

STORM

IN

PORTO

SANTO

CHANNEL"

THE

ANOTHER

"

DINNER

EXPECTED
"ARRIVAL

STORM

AT

MADEIRA.

Some

love

O'er
Where

SOME

of

interposition
lunatic

they

induced

who,

stand

for,

Grace

sixth, I left

brig

It

had

been

been

the

eyes

We

of

started

Friday

wre

nautical

before

our

calends.

and

by

the

voice

by

merely

belief, is

thought
of

human
sure

to

to

person

the

in

burden.

having

as

me

it been

found

secrated
con-

favor

more

It

omens.

day

day

distant

called
to

untimely

on

in

died

by
be

death.

agined
im-

or

saw,

had

who

was

disastrous

ever

This, according
an

seventy-

tons

Had

and

Madeira,

of

to

been

too

organs.
presage

"

have

person

fifty-two,

Island

preceding
of

of

year

Bull.

moorings

face

the

States

unpropitious

The

the

and

hardly

John

with

left

I saw,

it had

snobbish

in

lord.

predicament

hundred

are

quish
relin-

sea-voyage,

commended
of

private

opinion,

my

October

two

yacht

Lord,

the

to

in

the

to

latter

the

some

particularly

previously

United

for

of

in

hundred

the

Southampton

Brilliant,"

"

of

day

of

to

the

eight

Independence

the

the

first

thousand

one

fools,

compelled
In

well-advised

the

on

confined

be

less

sails.

the

on

and,

should

no

or

for

steam

of

And

free."

whistle

then,

friends,

asylum.

foam,

sea

winds

shrill

fools

great

are

dark

the

the

retain

to

year
and

name,

understood
to

The

popular
great

14

Dr.

the

though
"

himself

Johnson

Last

call

Call

Had

the

thus

avoided

Avith the

but

the

Julius

of

approach

conviction

is

the

the land

have

there

seem

one.

them.

eat

never

dinner
or

Good

the first

day

I recollect

it

at

nausea,

which

desire

motion
billows

"

"

hope

to

go

in
or

of the
; these

cold

on

the

evening
"

hope

vessel,which

becoming

it

unaffected

stomach, the
of

not

sleep,as

agitated by the increasingwind.

minute

to

dure
en-

this

on

with

full

the

only
by sea-sickness,
was

whole

rocked

each

once

and

appetite.

on

I dined

for

for

the

upon

ostrich

meats,

nity!
eter-

in God

down

an

to

accidental

save

waits

gratefully
;

early that

from

of

meal.

assisted"

rebellious

or

I turned
the

natural

Phar-

chances

no

digestion never

at

from

thousand

and

stomach

heart

ent
ever-pres-

you

rock, an

require the

waters, you

"

reproach

hidden

of brass

table.

the

on

first dared

bold

been

the heart

beside

who

plank separates

And

"

and,

fearful in the

something

leak
insignificant

voyage

miles

some

without

sea

flame, an

You

possessed

have

must

might

that but

the sea, but

on

deep

indeed

There

On

Capitol,and

tide ;

he

that

says

yet avoided

manhood.

life ;

who

of the

He

salia,and

half such

by

keel

and

same.

evening,parted companionship,leaving us

dangers

of brass ?

the

the

reluctant

our

was

experiment

of Brutus

ungratefulstroke

inert upon
the wave.
Is it not
Horace
the

The

forborne

Channel, againstwind

the

the
inattention,

deterred

been

have

not

Baxter's

as

remained
principle

the

steam-tug towed

down

i. e.,

annihilated.

not

he

fate

same

; and

supernaturalsummons

hi this

mighty

portents, would

called hi this way

Unconverted,"

belief
philologist's
only suspended,
failed in his case,

BOARD.

once

was

met

the

to

ON

DINNER

ONE

voyage.

so

to

much
escape

wearily upon
more

and

with

the
the
more

THE

awoke,

in

My

morning.
It had

his

been

had

Close

motion

hi

it

and

and
save

noise

gale without

by
It

toast.

had

and

eral
gen-

to

To

stand

assistance

feel
right
uppossible.
im-

was

ingenuity and

all my

the

at

me

morning repast,

or

sympathetic friend,brought
in the

all my

for

shape

of black

palate would

which

pear

deposited

filled

was

in bed.

some

was

occasional

sel.
ves-

crowd

it seemed

of the vessel.

next

the

the

It

lot.

wheel,

of existence

means

an

of

stern

my

required, indeed,

thereunto

dry

the

to

strength to keep myself

The
steward, missing
the

rain,the

captain to

fallen to

the

during
It

me

the

the

by

up

and

clothes,books, charts,chronometers

the

urged

in

was

given

and

"fixins."
most

of wind

state-room

of passengers,
with

hurricane

15

STOEM.

tea

tolerate,

provident fellow-passenger
safe-keepingin the captain's
a

room.

With
wind

the

blew

increasingday, the
it would

as

past, through, and

have

screaming, maddening
voices

with

sails,with

the

furies.

The

cordage strained,the

the

tall masts

bent, like saplings; the deck

and

This

was

the

screaming
in the

darkness

Toward
beef

had

been
I

ridicule

than

concord

of my

night

thereat.

be

Below

rather

informed

overboard.

rejoiced.

sympathy ; and
myself that those

deprived of part

the

inundated

with

trained

sailor.

squallingchildren,

"

crash

discord

or

were

of broken

of sounds

fearful

room.
was

swept

whistling,

shrouds

the

to

fallingtables,and

women,

crockery, made

untenable

above.

scene

It rushed

sails rent, and

loosened,

"shipped seas,"

The

and
appallinglyterrific,

energy,

vindictive

like

its last.

blown

athwart

increased.

storm

of their

that

all

I made

no

Sea-sickness
so

fresh

our

repining

gains rather

gratulated
vindictivelycon-

of insolent

health

would

promised enjoyment.

16

APPREHENSIONS.

reach

To

the

the

through

ladies',or

bonos

contra

And

of the first

day.

day

seemed
The

comfort

to

that

threatened

near

heaven

by

should

have

whence

no

Quid

times

possessed his

he had

that fever

person

who

et

confidence
I

the

and

"

doubtless
it is that

from

have

the

bourne

Nor

moral

did

more

me

ejusfortttnam."

great future

him

life,he
Indeed, I

fear of

exhibited

an

place,
"

Spain, and when, according

but

the

wish

that

in

his

no

me

second

to

as

were

not

resembled

more

finished
drink, Titinius."

some

did

frightenedpilotassure
Ccesarem

storm

land-route.

who

brought

"

in

life,and

soul.
in

storm

"they

"

place,I

afterward

afear'd"
should

first

dauntless

that

me

his

the

personage

land"

by

returns,"

vehis

that

Thus

the

traveler

not

Give

some

infinitelypreferred,

had

"

of

as

of

to

that

ing
even-

fellow-passengersin

water

In

Caesar's rebuke
"

it,save

with

and

morning

fatal termination

termination

abrupt

was

scale.

his

of mind.

peace

the

was

admonition

celebrated

sought

first

day

restless

like unto

was

crescendo

the

on

conclude

this

night.
sleepless
next

The

pass

"

strength ; so I
cribbed, confined,"and

The

deck.

the

over

obligedto

was

(in the situation in which I might

contra
sex), and the latter was
my
was
cabined,
compelled to remain

mores

softer

the

find

gentlemen'sroom

much

triumphs

when
to

cried

the

out,
"

was

ribly
hor-

showing fear,
pusillanimity.
the

over

physical

man.

The

charts,quadrants,and
of the

the roof
the vessel
tened
momentum

to

fastened

captain,were

of the

nautical

So

state-room.

agitated them

; every

precipitatethem
of missiles from

that

erally
gen-

insecurelyto

most

every

decided

against my
a

instruments

lurch
berth

catapulta.

of

motion

threat-

with

I threw

the
up

18

THE

terical convulsions

by

the

most

of the

others,

while

two

subdued

refractorywere

most

uttered

Expostulation quieted

outcries.

silenced

command

and

seeming danger,

the

extravagant

some,

1"AY.

FOUKTU

three

or

by brandy

and

opium.
cries and

These

expressions of

overheard

and

declining sun,

to

gave

and, abandoned
doomed

and

crew,

the

abatement

no

captain,
tinued
con-

with

the

direction

one

gloomy forebodings that, under

down

bear

circumstances, will

of the

of the

thoughts but

my

the

to

the

knew

which

tempest,

such

the looks

with

scenes,

the

mind,

itself upon

forced

Clarence

the

dream

tion
recollec-

my

"

For

Lord

Oh,

"What

dreadful

What

sights of ugly

such

noise

The

raged

defeated
fourth

saw

unabated

during

like

mind,

day

of the

the

rebels

deck

on
one

or

and

two

It

storm.

awake

Kept

violence.

demi-consciousness

realities

to

earnest

or

convulsive

by

by

all the

clamor

below,

fitful slumbers

wherein

violent

shiveringas

the

shrieks

you

of every

some

great calamity had

came

down

the

trembling

with

of women,

crash

my

into

rush

images

"

recognize,

of thought.
seeming able to control,the course
the evening, however, I was
fullyawakened

Toward

upon

!"

eyes

relaxation

no

this

without

ears

my

monarch.

I obtained
of

to drown

was

troubled

the noise

kind

within

death

previous night by
a

it

in my

of waters

of the

day

with

pain

unwelcome

unbidden,

presence-chamber
upon

what

methought

floor.

my
I

precipitation
: a

lowed
folfever-and-ague-fit,

taken

in

that

place,I thoughtlessly
position and set foot

instantaneous

feather

and

Fearful

unbroken.

entrenched
had

vessel,

infantile screams,

thing hitherto

from

of the

high

to

cause

wind

had

no

regret
more

volition.

incontinentlydemolished

and

fragments ; then, by
for

of existence
table

to

broke

final fall

I lifted up

the

and

vessel

also

Providence,
On
to

the

morning

abate, and

the

five
"Thank

God!"

I knew

that the
to

to

four

exceeds

in

pounds

we

me

of

from
came

going

were

for the

which,
out

sprang
not
not

been

it

was

its mutton

of bed.

verted
early con-

bigot enough

further,that

weight),and

enced
experi-

tempest-driven.

been

was

indeed

its cuisine

in

under

servant

my

sight

but

of

of

promised

storm

consequence

sweetness

and

light,and

hope.

when

had

we

succeeded

which,

transition

and
ejaculated,
Isle of Wight had

I knew

and

smaUness

the

that

neglected.

joy,

within

Christianity;

believe

it to

informed

Wight,

previous,

days

of

and

state-room

day, the

relief,a

height

Isle of

into the

of

striving

"

condition

me

get through the night.

to

kept

bell

steward,

with

water,

of the fifth

noon

sense

the

despair to
into

by

full

enabled

was

brought

and

and

shouted

me.

chance

from

trunk,

my

voice, and

around
of

out

article unnecessary

my

He

women.

glass of brandy

passed

was

his report of the

from

reassurance

madly pulled the

and

pertinaciouslywith the din

in arresting the attention
gained

I drove

to

by crushing an

arm,

my

forced

was

which

chair

the

I lifted up

described.

be

to

; thence

evermore

movement,

wash-bowl,

chair, from

my

ricochet

the

collision with

into

againsta suspended lamp,

the glass into countless

first thrown

was

19

WIGHT.

OF

ISLE

had

been

famous for the

! (a leg rarely
that

I determined

unknown
or
preservativeof all arts was
of Homer's
heroes,
unappreciated, I would, like one
cook my
own
chops. These chops, curiouslycooked, I
a
hasty toilet,to accompany
prepared, while I made

in

case

with

much

the

some

art

sliced tomatoes

red pepper.

The

au

bare

naturel,besprinkledwith

imaginationof

such

feast

20

STANDING

drove

;" of course,

that

it

"

the

but

Ave

to

seemed, had

equally resolved

of the

fair wind

course

once

I wilted.
and

without

from

with

was

on

week

after

final adieu
We

ihir

morning

our

departure
the

The
disasters

the

for four

startingon

our

from

small mutton,
How

I sympathized
tillnow

we

days gained

voyage

Friday.

that

But

not

of my

nerves

freer

and

and

shipped

perceptible

scarce

than

8th, more

made

bade

we

the

one

three

calms

but

to

were

exertion

fairlyout to sea.
dreaded
cay,
Bay of Bis-

encountered

me

with

"

stood

Atlantic

broad

blessed

beat

!"

it was,

as

Southampton,

of the

storms

sailors told
of

of the

channel, and

the

over

and

and

the

sailing.Then

winds,

tacked

we

bent

channel.

I breathed

them.

The

advantage

the very

languor

On

to

been

channel,making

escaped
and

I had

British

progress.

and

sweet

the

braced

wind,

therefore

of the

cayenne

overcome

and

in the

take

to

feet ; and

my

that

standing

were

"

deeper.
Two
days longer yet
seas

The

"

to

exhilarated

ously
sumptu-

learned

feltthe curse
I never
Shylock
the disappointment,cruel

bore

made

osition;
prop-

fair for Madeira.

north

that

unmanly repining.

had

we

had, and

had

we

enlivened

expectation. I
I

deck, I

sinful not

for the

Chops

with old
But

feast

after all !

blew

now

be

more

tomatoes

such

no

to

while

round

chopped

it would

his

harbor

the

enter

captain said
only

to the

Ascending

island,and

for the

mind

day

not

in my

I made

was

proposes.

were

out

through

current

"Walpole tells us, that his Duke of

On
in the habit of saying
Friday
blessingof Providence, I propose to get

was

next, with

Man

accelerated

an

"

Newcastle

drunk

SEA.

Horace

veins.

my

with

blood

the

TO

OUT

be

little on
unusual

days

adverse

or

ney.
jour-

our

delay and

attributed
of them

of

to

could

our

tell

v.UAND

Friday, of

why

me,

SPECTACLE.

"21

of the

days

all the

week, should

pronounced unlucky. With them the superstition

the knowledge of its origin.
has survived
In spiteof omens
the evening of the
or
on
disasters,
third Sunday of our
the little island
departure, we made
of Porto
Santo, about fortymiles from Madeira,
famous
the residence
as
historically
having been once
of the discoverer
of America, Christopher Columbus.
be

There
few

few

are

less

large

experienced it.

The

stench

seemed

undergone,

"We

had

of

of

better

upon

The

with

that

domes

had

sun

these

They

gorgeous

died

on

gaze,

and

most

Never

nificent
magthe

was

expression)

superb.

The

I had

gloriousorb
in

waters

of

noon-day
reflected

and

caught

with

the

upon

and

towers

blazing in
sky

in

tlements,
bat-

burnished

seeming

no

palaces, these

but, with

the
were

Around

transitory.

was

"

lingered awhile

have

pageantry.

alas !

scene

retiringmonarch, arrayed in
forms of reality. Mosques
crags,

boldly defined

unsubstantial

The

and

to

day, a

was

scene

clouds

outer

paid

never

theatrical

minarets, castles

mountains

and

en

the

emotion.

new

us.

the western

of the

the

and

gold, were

mise

attendant

dazzlingluster

shapes

exhilarate

grander sky.

down

went

splendor.
the

The

got up."

witnessed

never

day

"

pest-tost
tem-

hails

have

than

of this

close

(to use
sun-setting

the

are

forced companionship,
bilge-water,
all the deprivationswe

lost in this

besides, at the

spectacle to
process

which

voyager

rather

sea-sickness,and
had

with

Heliogabaluswould

land.

for this sensation

sum

envied, as there

to be

more

alloyed,than the rapture

sea-sickened,cadaverous

sight of

first

emotions

rich

sky

soon

imagination.

their
;

the

solemn

setting

temples"

architect,disappeared.

they

forever

faded

to

lost but

the enraptured
to

the

vivifying
re-

22

1"ANGEK

Filled

this

with

peacefultwilightthat
ing
retired,in the full hope of reachand

scene

the ocean,

fell upon

we

anchorage early in

an

FAMINE.

OF

the

morning.

the

Again to be disappointed! For

seemed
the coming day. Every wind
the

Notus, and

and

Eurus

us.

fated

vessel,lifted up at one
themselves, and at another
the

abyss, was

condition, contrasted

"

The

had

had

been

had
in

time

our

for

been

eighteenth! A
its longevity,
had

dinner.
week

Salt
but

The

beef, and
with

what

prayers,

were

provisions.

our

overboard

; the

half the

one

veteran

had

ham
or

and

to

sails,we

held

The

days,

and

we

goose,

spared a long

given
and

hold

age
passwere

the

vious
pre-

out, the soda

refused

our

distance

it.

the

ale.

pork, remained
them

down

and
Beating about, tackingincessantly,

to. compass

ton
mut-

upon

scantilyfurnished

wash

we

to

"Grief," says Sterne,

ten

at

peradventure
could

Our

took

stomachs

our

elements.

Some

hard

fresh water

before, and

lowest

previous

so

followed

calculated

the skies

of the

before

devoured

our

the

to

the

; and

hopes

early washed

been

to

driving

position."

exhausted

poultry had

the

now

horizontal

patiencewas

beef

and

of

"

naturallyseeks
Our

our

hearts.

our

down

strong liquors I,to bed.

to

some

with

it were,

as

dashed

sport
unresisting

evening,desolated

Afric

stormy

time,

in

conspiredagainst

them, raged against us

tempest before

wet

the

ushered

storms

own

looking well
through

the

out
to
dreary day ; and with the setting sun, made
reach the Disertas,three sister islets which
rise fifteen

hundred

perpendicularfeet from the ocean, directlyopposite

the north-eastern
extremityof Madeira, about
Funchal.
twenty miles from
uninhabited,
They are
save
the grass of the penuriby the goats that browse
ous
rocks.
and

were

We

glad

hugged
to

find

in

these
their

islands

all

night long,

shelteringarms

an

es-

i;

ol

from

cape

of

whole

vessel

our

captain

skill of the

and

how

Our

vessel

could

endurance

we

promise

hope

was

Funchal

had,

Bay,

cables,as

as

the

How

perils!

such

only

our

wind

afford

we

us

had

there

and
distinguish,

could

toward

the

attained, could
anchor

We

rod

tenable

With

riding at

we

worthiness
sea-

furrows.

useless

ocean.

if

even

well

captain feared

open

Vessels

protection.
their

the

upon

The

crew.

in

these

one

The

station.

landing

our

in

sea

advance

nor

of the

with

promise forgotten!

the

plowed

anchor

not

sorelytried,as

was

after is such

soon

raged

succeeding day.

and

gratitude do

much

which

ungoverned tempest,

the

animosity the

untired

'23

AU1MVAL.

no

slipped
out

run

to

sea.

could

We
the

house-tops,and

our

danger,

career

feared

we

fated

But

the

wind

The

to

let go

in

the

wind
the

The

right ;

was

anchor,

by

the

"

wine

dispersed

captainbade
at

it

two,

the

and

us

was

mile

upon
and

the

clouds.

the

came

hope. By

deemed

safe

the

shore,

from

Custom

brew
He-

oil.

anchorage

nearest

Health

opening

We

subsided.

sea

half

about

roadstead

open

the

this

foot

honey,

and

and

breathed.

safety.Visited

we

broke

ripened

disobedient

set

to

and

vexed

our

distinguish

to

upon

the

never

milk

sun

of

doom

but

moderated,

the

to

In

beach,

they knew

flowers, and

backs

our

the

see,

next

and

deck

noon,

to

turned

we

overflowing with

land

felt

nothing.

us

varied

trees, the

as

Paradise,
"

cliffs We

rocky
assist

could

blossomed

fruit ; and

on

and

the

the

crowding

close
approached sufficiently

AVC

the

inhabitants

the

see

with

officers

house

tobacco,
brought neither epidemic nor
immediately disembarked, escaping the perilsof the
that

see

sea, the

unhealthy

starvation.
"the

sure

we

I
and

was

closeness
the

firm-set

of

our

first of the

earth."

wooden
passengers

world, and
to

reach

II.

CHAPTER

OF

the

which

is
in

us,
the

from

of

me

in

the

indefinable
We

had
in

was

their

the

foliage,

and

and

days

our

"

the

for

zone

bright

vines

and

varied

tume

the

profusion

deep

all meet

to

erase

cuisine

became

the

on

desayreeThese

voyage.

dinner,

their

ushered

in

been

blue
and

came,
be-

shadowy

as

and

sea

are

of

delight

sun

picturesque
the

eye

frost

for

of

hills

temperate
the

tropics
with

covered

and

just

mer
sum-

for

the

magnificence

our

exchanged
and

scenery

on

"

become

snow

melancholy

stormy
has

left

we

glowing

and

lost
winds

Cold

closed

Winter

"

had

trees

verdure.
and

All

autumn.

The

long

the

of

midst

leaf.

foliage

splendor

sky

the

which

and

the

ables
en-

miseries.

all

not

which

admirable

guest

fields

change
trees

blue

in

had

naked

luxuriant
warmth

the

voyage
a

previous

succeeded

yellow

skies

arrival, what

of

of

for

myths.

and

cheerless

of

England

sere

enjoyment,

whose

SEX.

gratitude,
mind

the

THE

Providence,

of

oblivious

that

as

left

of

FAIR

the

linen, and

dangers

hour

[."

of

impressions

soon

and

delay,

inents,

NCH

OF

"I HE

sufficient

moments

Consul,

made

landing,

FU

faculty

of

change

American

the

and

all

memory

bath,

warm

first

our

OF

express

happy

that

AOREEAOILITIES

dispensations

never

can

we

C1TV

kind

many

least

the

RESOURCES"

ITS

ISLAND"

CONTRASTED"

ENGLAND

AND

MADEIRA

OF

SEASON

at

novel
the

cos-

precise

60CLBTY.

"JG

well

as

France,

sunny

its

birds, supply

web-footed

In

books

clubs, there

in the

as

always

of

houses

the

attainable

mountains,

the

various

abundant

table.

of Christendom,

taste

with

intellectual

the

sources.
re-

wealthy residents, as

libraries of the

are

by

of its

country

any

unprovided

Madeira

is

'Nor

in

more,

well-informed

gratifya

to

well

find

one

can

Germany;

and

rich

of

any

beef, turkeys, and

luscious

herbage-fedand

What

the game

fish of its waters,

Avhile the

to

of

vineyards

boasted

the

or

The

spots affords

superiorexcellence

and

color

of richer

wine

latitudes.

favored

in most

that is nourished

grape

colder

productionsof

other

as

choicest

ed,
well-inform-

sojourner;

the higher Portuguese and

agreeable society,among
English proprietors the latter distinguishedfor ready
"

hospitality.In
social

be

the

varying

than

indulgence

useful of mental
walks

and

in
Avlrile,

of self-communion"
"

along

the

there

of

shore

He

has

every

and

he

is true

"

ever-

the

-of the

high
here

wants
to

his

far-

own

ture.
na-

him
but contentment.
thing to content
the
"Weariness, however, springs from
same
dulgence;
as
gratification.Our desires increase with in-

source

for

who

amusement

or

that

the

are

resounding sea," or up to the summits

overreaching hills. Man, indeed, never
occupation

the

day spent at
opulent merchants

occupations
rides

ing
noth-

summer,

of the

seats

country
for

then

agreeable

more

quiutas,or
most

months, dinners, balls,and

evening partiesabound

can

and

winter

the

worlds

more

The

busy

to

inhabitants
world.

them

not.

island

and
a

who

the

weeps

conquer.
are, to

Daily
The

conquered worlds,

has

wars,

regular
continent

fortnight;their

degree, shut
or

of

rumors

being more

sensibilities

from

are

the

affect

wars

between

communication

not

out

the

frequent than
not

wounded

ISLANDS

unvaried

the

by

record

is

Plato, it

their

much

greater

whose

fictions,no

in

the

less

And

Islands
wont

But

Plato

Surely

have

selected

no

affect
how

gerous
dan-

more

ed
publish-

harm, because,
in

and,

for

"

the

had

done

with

residence

Here

loved.

he

of

had

of men,"

might

favored

Achilles, recovering
well

exchanged
of human

length

have
for

days.

indeed, but

have

and
could

the

Paris, might

of his arrogant

wife's ten-years' constancy,

solace; and

were

poets

Verdes, the Canaries

tedious

king

Hercules.

of

Grecian

they

of

his

"the

retirement

had

placed

that
intelligent

grateful

that

fatallyconvinced

columns

when

the

he

that

us

the

more

himself

Here, Agamemnon,

of

little

of the

de

Cape

gloriousimmortality the

usurped

model

editors,

out

much

readers

of the

the felon-stroke

congratulated

do

reminds

just Jupiter
from

kept

newspapers

few

have

heroes

the

Madeira.

women,

they

west

their

them, comprised

whom

his

politic;with

have

two

are

Blest," where

send

been

body
he

general belief

of the
to

few

there

somewhere

it is the

poets from

meal.

believers.

place,no
Speaking of

Atalantis

cities,

morning

incredible,are

place,they

second

the

would

reason

Funchal.

first

all

of

It is true

daily in

the

upon

in

prurient imaginations should

mind

the
injuriously

27

BLEST.

crimes, which,

said, excluded

republic,lest

of

inflicts

newspaper

every

THE

OF

of

not

credulityin

found

for
unhoped-

here, Dido, forgettinghim

who

had

the

without
privileges,
conceding the name,
what
tian,
unless Chrishusband, forgivingeven
wromen,
seldom
so
forgive,spretceque injuriaformce, the

sated

contempt

of her

charms, might have

her

youth and beauty amid

At
surpassing loveliness !
would

they

have
went

been

glad

further

and

to

scenes

have

fared

and

least, I
made
worse.

maintained

climate
doubt

the

of such
not

for
trial,

they
I fear

FUNCHAL.

28

the

approach from

The
ideal

"

It

was

cliffs above, and

Guarded

and

here

the

on

aspect

wore

"

billows'

haughty

glitterlike

roar,
make

which

days,

summer

ocean

host,

an

tempest-toss'd

the

dead, long

outstretched

The

broad, sandy shore ;

creek, whose

to the

rarely ceased

And

coast,

rocks, as by

there

welcome

better

and

shoals

by

With

Save

breaker-beaten

and

wild

With

Byron's pirateisle :

of

form

we

the wild

Funchal

gives to

sea

lake."

vessels can
safely
properly no harbor where
mole
jutting into the sea, to
anchor, nor
pier, nor
roadstead
is
The
be fastened.
which
they can
open

There

their

is

It is
which

sometimes

their

The

feet
the

of

of

sides

makes

it

all

symmetry

as

set

edgeways,

frost.

The

ironed,

as

something
for the

require to
clatter

of

of

be

shod

these

Too

close

fearful

with

in it ; and

of 4,000

the
there

It is

proximity

row,
mostly narlittle regard to

paved

are

the

ours

to

the

for

stony
are

no

with

beach, and

quadrupeds,
as

large

are

from

like

they gallop through

vessel.

hold

surer

of

ground
magnificent back-

They

gathered

afford

to

unfortunate

qui pent"

advantage.

of basalt

to

out

run

height

deck

the

escape

protecting it,like

sea, and

convenience.

pieces

feet ; which

the

prosaic. The streets

built,with as
irregularly

more

and

round

and

the base

rise to

the

from

the best

to

of

To

for weeks.

amphitheater, form

an

the view

to
seen

level

one.

south-west,

to

anchors

is built upon

Funchal

the

east

safe

fatal violence.

their

mountains, which

above

thus

raise

all times

at

from

blasts

occasionallyabsent

are

city of

range

is it

with

rage

fury,vessels

; and

sea

Nor

only anchorage.
exposed to all the

horses'
and

snow
so

heavily-

streets, has
causeways

pedestrians,it is sometimes
them.
Accidents, however,

"

sauve

seldom

THE

The

happen.

horses

besides, by
called

"

these

the

No

trot,

ground

since the

not,

perhaps,

man

twists
to

He

it,too,

as

the

animal's

may

be, it

while

the

ludicrous

get rid

his horse
or

to

wish

there

running

are

do

so.

burroquero can
dispensed with.
with

him

while

tremity.
ex-

stranger,

he

He

urges

into
The

the

forcible
extricating my
one

The

determines

appendage.
shy, to start
than

it

parts,

caudal

the

mounts

stream.

But

as

lop,
gal-

quero
burro-

gloomy
the

by

means

horse

it

"

burroquero

darena'

was

cross."

efficacious methods

of

better

than

there
and

are

ways

with

brushes

services

comfort
the

lie has

dismount;

the

compels

force

the

in his hand
him

you

of

the

safety,be

nor

flies from

ever

killing

whenever

burroquero,

sometimes

neither,
He

they

stream

other

horse-tail broom
you

steer

as

to

in

large

to

poet says, sits behind

bufe

was

the

to

removed

Roman

drowning, so
separating horse

cat

of

horse's

viciouslyinclined

all in vain.

but

"

be

the

witches
"

he

succeeded

ever

like Burns's

Still,
as

halt

which

firmly to

when

more

by fording

was

holds

plunge, to

There

the

at,

get free its hinder

or

unnecessary

violentlyto

horseman.

however

kick

to

thoughts which,

into

with

apparition has,

the

no

securely

of rudder

; and

an

rear,

can

which

kind

And

of

hand

wondered

be

to

on

keeps equal

burroquero

much

so

whether

"

"

burroquero
sense.

goes

it, thorough bush, thorough brier."

not

Such

mischief.

prevent

the

his

course
can

here

outrunners,

to

fast he

"

hangs

uses

his

gallop

tail,and

aid

tended,
at-

are

of
jolly sight,to see one
attendant
burroquero, fairlyen

how

or

or
gillies

who
call

English

matter

canter

of

and

manageable,

very

kind

animals, with

route.

to

are

Burroqueros,"

It is what

29

BUEBOQUEBO.

to

animal
; holds

reluctant

30

THE

He

this all.

you

knows

the

latest

of

in

supply

"

These

rakish

serves.

of the

and

of

and

with

it

like

inverted

an

in

form.

How

such

saucer,

It is

mounted
sur-

pig's tail,with

pig might

carry

could

cap

ever

no

more

the

covers

The

head

remainder
than
no

than

of the

dress

quality. Indeed
covering

more

than

nudity.
made

symmetrical proportions. They

walk

erect,

an

men

ease

One

Belvidere

are

and

less for

men

House

has the

; and

what

tall,

of carriage nowhere
elasticity

of the

vigorous grace

I say

eira,
Mad-

to

go

generally wear

unlike

not

class have

poorer

Consular

Apollo

valet

exceedinglywell

surpassed.
of the

cleverest

should

class

less in appearance

of the

the

"

"

sufficient to neutralize
Some

burroquero

side, as

lady'sbonnet.

ordinary,no

of

I had

what
or
puzzles comprehension
There
is nothing picturesque or attractive

it ; and

fashionable

word,

of all times.

conical

one

love.

invented

in

many

to

making
it

purpose

is

something

cap,

inclination

been

is,in

He

lower

larger,but more
by an appendage,

his,when
have

the

and

fellows

much

not

He

right.

am

of

much

so

you

(ashe Anglicizeshimself),and

Matthew"

peculiarsort

Signora

traditionaryinformation

of you

one

of

is

tell

can

putative father.

chronicle"

If any

and

jewels

greatest cheat, and

the

will find I

you

all

perfect bijou

with.

met

ever

the

occurrences.

brief

romancer,

retain

and

house,

black-eyed boy

with

you

and

employ

coolest

; where

little like his

so

abstract

my

of every

that

why

places,persons
the

most

scandal

looked

also

can

dangerous paths. Nor

amusing travelingcompanion.

over

the secret

from, and

admired

him

is your

He

came

"

leads

and

speed ;

CAP.

attached

muscular

his attitudes

beyond

the

palanquin

beauty

and

the reach

is called

the

to

of

motions

of

an

play
dis-

art.

softer

sex.

The

THE

generally unprepossessing. Indeed

arc

women

hard

toil

I know

the

; but

not

; whether

and

is this in

For
and

they

were

It

is not

their

of

stomach.

dog

; upon

in

all their

would

very

be

features

cleanliness

; but

to

avoid

seem

want

been

with
would

tenacious
which

occupants

afford

matter

partiesmost
nor
gratification;
repulsionand
The
be

names

are

insist upon
a

ternoon,
af-

sunny

such

other's

innocent

heads

abandon

kind

mutual

reflection

to

offices

tetic
peripa-

to

the

indeed

other

ladies

du

ton

such

charge.

excites

emotions

than

disgust.

Portuguese

exempted

each

the

of curious
But

tain
told,cer-

ordinary spectator this

salutary to
agreeable and even
immediately interested in it,brings no

philosopher.
occupation, however
the

from

; and

they interchange

mad

publicpromenades, girls

most

removing

no

tion,
attrac-

like

water

themselves, whose

of the

or

dirtyuglinessturns

"

these

from

gerous
dan-

little

"

in

cheap

plain,and

to
ears
polite" squatters who
unspoken
of
their pre-emptive rights. You
often see

busilyengaged

cumstance
cir-

more

are

I have

of their persons,

some

ments.
linea-

unfortunate

an

their last favors

their

domiciliate

in

youth.

no

"

many

dames
bel-

health.

that

They

animals

have

them

respects

hold

and

wanted

the

all

women

withered

see

coarselyformed
they take
The
prettiestgirl would

either.

if she

You

repulsive,they

merely

persons

care

less

morals

to

"

they

to

attractive,and

means

spring-guns appear

lSTor

is,the

truth

melancholy

island,in youth, are by no

their old age, fearfully
ugly.
too, at forty. Many of

Man-traps

owing

to

of the
in

it be

her

posure,
early and continual exwith,
scanty food they meet

the

to

among

pretty girl; and

one

they undergo,

habits,or

to

but

saw

told hereafter

be

history will
the

classes

lower

the

'31

WOMEN.

bon

The

are

of

course

to

social outlaws.

;32

MABKIAGES.

of whom

I have
classes here

upper

whose

as

an

and

said

much

to

embonpoint

be

This

by

convenance,

founded

matches

the

mother

earlysatiety.

The

the moral

Xorth,"

things,"has
what

are

de

engender

proved

poetically

of
generally prolific

are

by

marriage

mutual

blood; and

warm

precocious passion

in

terminates

vanishes, the passion evaporates,

romance

remains

woman

made

Philosopher Square

while

climates
from

what

fitness of

etemal

misery. Warm
what
springs

much

They

are

The

results.

-upon

institution

excellent

the

soon

climates, however

warm

regions of

beneficial

the

Continent,

in

custom

is followed

love

in

circles,as

the

in the cold

"

"

food

gross

pression;
ex-

livelyin conversation, to posess

and amiable
riages
dispositions. Mar-

generally on

prove

termed

with

lack

'

parents.

call

mostly

country, and

would

brilliant irradiation

fatal to sentiment.

so

aristocratic

the

among

it may

and

clever

of manner,

ease

an

of their persons

it is true, have

countenances

habits

indolent

that

on

lend

which
their

; but

Many,

pretty.

eyes,

the features

bring

not

are

sparklingblack

the

careful

as

deity is cleanliness,and who bathe as

Generally speaking,
early Mussulman.

however, they

are

are

household

often

to

doubtless

aristocracy. The

elsewhere, excepting perhaps the French,

ladies

as

the

spoken, respect

"

But

something

too

of this."

He

who

(and
he goes

on

elsewhere

feels therefore
where
a

will he not

frolic among

for its

to

the

up" than

nowhere
in

feel

the

island
not

in

England.

many

like

it,unless

in

in vain.

world
don't

deira
Ma-

Jupiter,

the

among

Each

look

guese
Portuter
win-

English families,with

indisposed to
the

(fainter

"Ethiopians"), will

look

not

may

youthful daughters
; and

besoin

than
gratification

ladies ; and
sends

the

proper

tion
flirta-

girlsbetter "got
allude merely to the
are

III.

CHAPTER

GARDEN

THE

ESTABLISHMENT

AND

CONSTITIIT1AO

DO

OF

THE

"

CANONS

OF

THE

AMERICAN

THE

ROMISH

CONSUL"

THE

CHURCH

PRAZA

THE

"

LANDED

PROPRIETORS.

IT

was

from

the

near

indisposed
details

open

with

plucked

the

which

not

tree

My

to

tfceil.
and

curtained

whose

grounds

the

foliage

enlivened

pomegranate,
rivals

the

for

the

Mocha,

ains
mount-

feet

bath,

but

cold,

chamber

my

imperfect

an

whose

ed
contrast-

the

atmosphere,

rich

banana,

the

in

completed,

which

orange-trees,

eager

mornings,
the

orisons

and,

"

human,

thousand

inspection,

Besides

laden

my
or

from

upon

nearer

eye

by

was,

two

and

ablutions

satisfy, by

fruit

my

divine

Water

house,

ain
mount-

deeply

to

this

and

ing
Throw-

the

welcome

cuperative
re-

morning,

surprise.

re-invigorating

the

to

the

me

chilling.

fruit

ate

than

the

grasped

breakfast.

my

furnished

abutted,

the

of

and

alike

else

in

itself
was

The

inclination

no

awoke

prohibition,

no

overhung

descended

coup

fruit

the

preface

height,

by

had

orange-tree,

an

pause,

Defended

shore.

condition

gratified

offered

unnecessary

the

aught

to

of

fruit,

mellowed

hand.
I

branch

the

without

window-curtains

my

air,

of

fullness

the

to

for

when

Thus,

sleep.
awoke

dinner,

after

nor,

we

battered

my

landed

when

upon

investigation.

to

me

"

and

evening

approaching

day

the

bark

tempest-tossed

our

for

of

close

luscious

the

saw

coffeecustard-

MAKSTKO

ance.
perfumed citron,all in unaided abundin Persian
was
realizinga scene
poetry;
softened
air and
transparent sky mingled

apple, and

the

It
the

while
with
I

;'55

FRANCESCO.

harmonized

and

freshness

of the

with

both

gratitude;

of the

bounties

of breakfast

partook
and

the

The

Salic
No

Wood

of

none

figsthat

and

truth

softer

of

man

who

have

pretended
bath

to

; and

without

was,

my

indeed,

the

"

cuisine,

maestro.

was

He

starved

was

not

took

Foy,

in

word.

ments.
endear-

sometime
him

"a

who

^ay-

his

never

perior
su-

presided

often

goes

He

by
glorified
his

gratuities

He

invented.

opera.

the

the

nated
properly desig-

He

than

for

no

our

met

artist;and

apothecary,his will,not

with

then
one

all

described

Francesco,

to

him

encounter.

expected

composed.

compelled

saw

fernalB chambermaid

prepared
:

have

more

He

it is due

his functions

John

have

an

tooth-brushes; never

cosmetics

as

in

maid
chamber-

understand

nor

genius to his dishes

composition of an epic, or an
profession; gloried in it,and was
gave

no

one

addressed, and

when

Maestro"

save

ill-luck to

or

not

chambermaid.

since.
over

Let

ment.
establish-

My

; and

any

reluctance, and

Washington friend,would
a

indeed,

house.

than

Avhen

combs,

stole

simulated

of

menced
com-

figs.

consular

performed

alarmed

be

the

the

I did

my

never

He

cock"

cious
lus-

never

"

fuss
good

unless

which

used

he

the

spoke

never

fresh

fiftyyears

less

had

Portugese,of
He

had

petite
ap-

I felt

shipwrecked bark,

in

some

say, that

to

never

it in.

ushered

there

governs

sex

assiduityand

more

He

figure-head of

the

was

the

strengthened by

prevails in

law

Avoman

the

"

ordinary

envied.

be

man

than

more

self-complacentpity for the man

his morning repast with
such

earth.

to

loved

the

his

it.

office ; xmlike

the

poverty consented.

36

MUC^

TOO

He

was

man

landed

had

rents

of

man

sufficient

failed

load

flesh

he

; of

influence

in

great

is like

Michael

was

To

his

art

too

much

be

they

as

the

sure,

else

would

needed

have

not

Oh
superfluouswish
some
one
inquired;
favorite

should

would

though
In

it

of

left him
be

no

various

many

capacityemployed

impressionable,
they
much

reliable.

more

and

rogues
The

do

those

who

Flanked

have

on

by the
enclosingit on

the
side

the

table,

Proteus.

servants,

in

the

do

the
with

of

French,

there

course

in other
abut

and

places.
on

the

popular lounge for

the island; i. e.,
on

natives, and
by

as

consulate
most

to

cathedral,
every

them

the
the

desire.

versatile,active,honest,

"

among

"

the

further

excellent

speak generally;
of

"I

pork

upon

as
intelligent

nothing

of
one

walls

Constitutiao

threefourths

as

drones

garden

Praza

are

eat

Madeira

disguisesas

make

to

with

pork

the

much

too

flesh,

replied he;

sinning." The
of
possibility

crowded
as

assume

of

an

in Johnson's

allowed

not

are

taste

truth, the Portuguese

whatever

are

the

enjoy

Still it may

Jew

so

eating this,the
!" "Why
?"
so

on

"Because,"

pleasure

have

were

Jews

the

meat."

then

additional

"

utter,

that

"

your

to

"

than

of swine's

lover

in

disposed
porcine,

flesh nowhere

such

physician and

as

the

Angelo

whiter
juicy is it,so delicate,so sweet
; and
Dr. Barrowby, equally well-known
infant's.
time

ferred
pre-

respected by

and

napped,

infirmity; he
table Avith pork.

Madeira

of

much

one

his

but

"

His

the gates.

Francesco,

theirs,had
to

livelihood

was

sometimes

and

"

within

was

Homer

But

he

forehanded

of houses.

owner

selfish indolence

to

countrymen,

stranger that

call

we

and
proprietor,

been

his

; what

means

doing good
among

PORK.

all

the

castle,and,
a

side,it affords

row
a

of

foreigners.
on

the
fine

posite
optrees

picturesqueand

walk.

shaded
and

Here

the

admiration

and

"

exhibit

ladies

their faces ; talk scandal

reward

37

PROMENADE.

THE

sentiment

or

the

and
unless

those

to

from

this

principal objection to
walks

agreeable

Our

meet.

enjoyment

of existence

sufferers.

It

their

disease

their

blood

The

of

anticipatethe
It

while

to

and

suns,

and

the

in

day

existence

want

no

distraction, amusement,

defined
For

fills and

We

"

"

is

fated

their

of

hopes

attest

premonitory

in the

no

pangs

happiness but

clime.

mere

You

soul.

occupation. As
existence
Cogito,
or

"

"

be"

must

feel,and
a

air,under

open

satisfies the

think, therefore, I

daily life

our

what

"

these

cheeks

wan

philosopher proved
"

sum"

sumptive
con-

characteristic

well-tempered

of

ergo

of

fast it steals away

no

sense

Grecian

most

unthinking

rapidly,while

"

The

of dissolution.

agony

is easy

cloudless

danger

and

outrage

how

their

on

here,

exertion,

number

blessed

not

life ebbs

smile

consciousness

feel

they

their

"

increase.

the

time

other

to

as

is the

to

and

naturally.

careless

seems

is,however,
that

resort,

Funchal,

near

sick you

it flows

and

smoke

gentlemen

whom

dresses,

excite

"

a major part of the

Day-lifeis listless,
conversation
is mostly too
great an

gaze.

the

their

"

so

therefore

series of

was

live."

sations
pleasurable sen-

And

the

evening

pleasant,and
was

the

dwell

on
gratefully

at

I do

all,and

not

no

the

at

general occupation,with

sole refreshment.
introduced

reunions

the

memory.

tea

and

recollect

politesociety. The Portuguese

though they cultivate the vine.
but

vintage upon

indulge even

rarely,if ever.

at

the

dinner

table

are

toast

to have

from

no

They

for the
wine

seen

known

wine-bibbers,
place

their

habit,
dinner,most

courteous

sparsely;after

were

Whist

stronger potations are

in

choicest

consulate

38

CONEGO

the

Among
these

Bento,

Conego
An

Church.

honored
a

guests

on

of the

canon

octogenarian, but

more

by the weight of honors than of years.

had
the Scriptural
injunction: He
obeyed literally
Devoted
sold all he had, and
given to the poor.
down

bowed
He
had
to

the

was

Catholic

Holy

frequent and

most

occasions

BKNTO.

his flock

and

distraction

and

of

relatives

poor

He

Church, wealth

and

had

whoever

all the

of the

had

for the

of

his relative.

was

and

of his timeserving

nothing

been

he

bonhommie,

disposed

obtained

But

Church.

maintenance,

needy

with

have

him

to

long life
gradually divested

amiability,the

could

too

been

During

was

quiet deportment of Fenelon,

he
disposition. Had
the great, he

had

incumbrance.

an

by a suspicion, he
large patrimony

unshadowed
himself

the

the

flatter

to

higher dignities

preferredconscience

to

to unworthily-earned promotion.
position,self-respect
Tolerant,although he had suffered persecution; fervid,

while

the

times

encouraged laxityof opinion,he gained

proselytesby kindness,
I have

the mildness

him

urged
in

when

of

Bourdaloue

assumed

fire

his voice

the

while

was

reflected

known

or

his

him

to

Divinitywithin
sole

there,

loftytheme
burst

forth

God

to

eye

his

compass

His

theme

regained
"

gesture, revealed

inspired

the

or

port then

all its

and

bowed

his

original

every

the

ment,
linea-

struggling

amusement

nightly amusement,
neither

Unknown

its wonted

generally

impetuous eloquence,like

or

suited

by example.

and

provoked,

erect; his

feature, and

have

"

I have

majesty

became

His

pulpit

them

rebuking protected sin,

form
"

vice

indignant

preaching

convert

secured

daily thought

onward,

torrent

in the

of his

occasions

on

him

heard

and

this game

was

did

his intellect

of

duty prevent.

no
nor

whist

They

beauty of life

may

his

who

pro-

CONEGO

it frivolous

nounce

and

will

regard,
the

Church

had

made

something

in this world

Pestana

Conego
learned

than

devout.

his elder

Educated

conversation

He
knew

loved
it.

at

was

the

his

world, and

and

is, he

the

it.

guests

was

much

too

tomed
accus-

fected.
unaf-

failed to

shine.

abuse

it ; he

to

to

sense

sincerely believed,

more

and

easy

wise

more

parts, his

natural

never

too

was

had

it

as

attempted

or
calling,

That

of

must

tentment
punishes con-

beyond

of great

brilliant

as

never

deserted

confrere,though surelynot
the University of Coimbra,

high society,and

to

He

another

worthy

There

faith which

Avith damnation

was

is

tolerable,
they

more

desirable.

the

in

intelligent

who

they

life

religionmore

wrong

The

alone

Had

made

Rome

their

39

A.

censure

him.

approve
of

AN

objectionable.

or

charitable, whose

the

be

PEST

discredit

unsuspectedly

or

doubted.
Then

had

we

officer of the

the

as

varied

With

regular army,"

Governor

the

morgado,

called.

are

of the

colonel

customs,

occasional

an

"

of the

an

island,and

hereditary etors
land-propriconversation
and cards,

evenings quietly,pleasantly,and
instructively.My knowledge of the language was too
sation
sadly limited to allow a full appreciationof the convergot through the

we

escaped

as

me,

pointed epigram

; many

well

anecdote, which
softer.
an

But

outline

what

some

it would

sterner

one

of the
be

themselves
that the

is

the

relish

always
story,

or

with

Portuguese language

sex

was

mot

brilliant

(I suspect)many

as

the

or

so

fillingup
an

at

as

hand

much
to

of mimics

and

or

unaided

well-selected

and

words

could

never

have

rendered

the

give me
imagine
The

the Portuguese

raconteurs,

epithet,the animated
speaking gesture conveyed a meaning which
so

as

coloring.

expressiveone,

best

scandalous

that I could
and

repartee

eye, and
careless

intelligible.

40

kept

up.

there

is

no

the

handsome

an

and
There

changed.
their

with

when

pipes

at

"royal

merchants"

change

of

and

there

consequently

keep

up

are

their

now

and

wine,
be

can

drawing

establishments,

exhausted.

pursuits.

of

They
devote

all

must

capital

for

no

upon
will

be

all
still

but

must

since,

years

of

great

gance
extrava-

there

habits.

are

soon

energy

with
There

no

income.
their

these

But

outlays.
of

of

incomes,

relinquish
and

They

hundreds

regal

change

come

exportation

who
to

must

at

dences,
resi-

must

some

With

They

servants.

Thirty

height

felt.

tuously
sump-

expenditures

annually

laughed

times

no

large

the

or

residents

incomes.

profit,

times,

country

This

wealthy

and

Madeira.

of

be

grape,

former

elegant

table.

and

hardly

was

of

retinue

exported

romantic

even

be

many

decreasing

house

are

hospitality

former

decrease

luxurious

In

viyne
and

the

comfortably

la

hardly

can

upon

more

de

and

island

vine."

the

houses

clubs,

open

in

noblesse

the

fallen

lived

town

many

kept

fruit

where

any

than
had

"

longer

persons

of

has

blight

The

no

PRINCE.

hospitality

old

the

But

can

MERCHANT

THE

grapes,

The
stored

prietors,
pro-

wines

find

that

their

old
to

source
re-

cupation,
oc-

other

42

RIPE

TO

THK

MOUNT

"

this
pendicular declivities,

CHURCH.

Road"

New

is

an

easy

promenade.
But
to

ride I

Senhora

Nossa

'"

it is less

Monte"

do

is

always
The

paved throughout.
the

high

their

vine-colored

every

side,and
the

the

soil,climb

up

the

coming.

In

its proper

Bacchanal
strive to
to

seems

in

the

and

from

of every

the

hue, and

streamlets

at

height of

running

rivulet.

summits.

made

as

to

they quit

flow

such

increased
would
the

native

of

leaves

that

the

the

of

luscious,
a

crevice

unwanted

forth

have,

to

"in

flowers

in the

from

volume

plainbut

fresh, sparkling,
in the

inaccessible
is

restraint

and

channels,

steep pathway.

what
some-

they

in vehement

But

by

alliances

formed

even

the

fears of inundations

that their native

well-timed

fierceness

division.

"such

base

uses."

the

in their course,

dwellers

of

is still further

Their

Avaters

then devoted
separated,and singly overcome
; and
irrigatinggardens, turning mill-wheels,washing

linen,or

ning
run-

the very

to

birth-place;

rock-built

within

to

grape,

heads

ever

cradled

their

on

control, their precipitousdescent, and

terrifywith

subdued

the

blushing

hatred

natural

regularity,down
under

are

under

geranium

shrubs

passage

an

runs

you

; the

earth, peep

ascent,

is

offer themselves

feet ; for you

These

Their

tamed

the

attend

from

out

the

their

your

topmost

quintas,and

season,

terraced

dip

the road

purple,plump and
; while,from
many

touch

your

; and

perfume

walls, and

profusion,"bursts
court

church

flowering

walls, opened for

moisture

are

other

imprison it ;

The

Flowers

air with

as

its very

ascent.

of the

walls

and

your

Church,

ride,from

Funchal

corridors.

fuchsia,and

Mount

The

an

on

followed,was

greater part of the way

white

fill the

oftener
the

"

feet above

2000

some

between

and

poetically
Anglicized.

commencement,
stands

affected

more

are

to

foul

MOUNTAIN

As

you

pause

well-needed

rest

the

see

you

with

part-way

forest trees, and

of the

it

Faith

the

the
of

view

of

the

criticism,or

the

and

the

where
and

around

you,

used

over

the

the

like

this

descend

and

the

on

and

steam

cars

mere

entertainment,
It is

will

nice.

be

sure

so

sleds

such

move

as

the

over
a

no

to

not

"

propelled,or

"

formerly

propos.

forest,

sight.

the
in

wall
every

ravine, crag,
on

thedral,
ca-

harmonize
broken

coasting,and

we

portion of

expressive than

is lost to the

"

ride

or

as

fast

ened
hardslide

task

easy

after
foot, particularly

rejected boys
with

for

as

varied

mal

not

this hill

mischance
more

is

days

pear
ap-

liable

way

prison,the

mountain

the

stones

As

snow.

may

any

blend

precipice and

descend

smooth

congruity,
of in-

for whatever

station,castle and

mountain, rush

in younger

lies Fun-

ocean

taste

swiftly,but more
safely,than by
rather
guided by boys. They are
we

fronts

church

while, before, behind, and

weather-scarred
can

this

and

hut

The

in

severer

monastery,

lazar-house

vacated

You

to

From
and

panoramic

chimneys glisteningin

whatever

"

repugnant

fortress
with

view

removed.

thus

eye,

have

imperfect architecture

or

nearer

Dominions,

over

this

gives it beauty;

disorder

to

you

and

walls

Distance

sun.

to

church

yourself and

its white

alike

triumphed

and

surpassing magnificence.

chal, with

emblem

the

Between

unfit

no

"

has

nature

Powers

top

ocean.

the

of

Mount,"

rising
neighboring hills,huge

which
illustrates,

and
Principalities,

From

of the

Lady

habitations

fierceness

the

over

human

afford

to

horse, looking upward

above

proudly

ascent,

your

and

of "Our

.;hureh

its turrets

on

rider

to

43

VIEW.

to

shower

accompany

any

the

Portuguese vocabulary
Their
gibes and jeersgive

sharper anguish to the offended

No
less agreeable than
either

part.
of these

rides is per-

44

SALAMIS.

the

the

the

east

cliffs all the

way

till you

one

of

zalos,a love
from

mile

the

cliffs arise

road

reach
the

upon

Bay,

long range
that

of

the

you

either

cliffs,
risingon

features

further

one

sea,

the

to

wherein

large

hostile armadas

find

fatal encounter,

to

resemblance

to

win

this,the

Salamis

took

have

Funchal
view

met

by

bay,

or

above

the

heads,

ing
correspond-

ride

world.

of

crescent
at

ease,

enough

space

Some

or

for

fancied

strong hold

such

day

of

tic.
thing fantas-

any

one

The

grotesque

and

room

lose

or

of

might

navy

ample

horn

into

east, forms

projection

side,one

and

imagination might convert

The
projectionof this cape,

its

with

eastern

top of which

furrowed

with

other,

forms

the

sea

picturesque

less

becomes

Cape Garajao, which,

from

and

them, and

ocean,

the

than

Further

Gon-

de

with

unites

hugs

perpendicularviolence.

almost

round

road

the Ribeiro

reach

Church.

Sorocco

The

town.

ravine, which

with

winds

till you

the

of the

to

haps

of my

I
imagination that, in temporary
forgetfulness,
exclaimed
astonished
to my
burroquero :
"

Approach,
Say,
These

is

thou

craven-crouching

this

not

blue

waters

Oh, servile
Pronounce

what

emphatic gesture
would
have
given my
Another

seldom,
to

San

the

as

it

was

waterfall.

Koque,
on
no

we

descend

"

is this ?"

of

from
of

which
our

sured
reas-

rejoicing.

serious

side

reaching the bottom of

longer practicablefor

soon

indulged, however

distance
the

fits ; but

his way

in which

short

free

shore

follower
on

lave,

you

indignant voice, I thought,

somewhat

the

round

sea, what

and

he went

excursion

that

offspringof

My

him, and

Thermopylae

slave

a
we

but

character,was
the Church

of

vine,
raprecipitous

find the

horses.

These

way
pathwe

obliged

therefore

were

of the

journey
of

shoulders
the

and

torrent,
and

boulders

down

driven

They

storms.

of the

power

of

that

has

the

for

But

view,

our

fall of

effect

time

rain, and

opening

the

stream,
fell

and

gorge,

countries
The

and

rich
loses

wild

much

hausted.
ex-

through

the

dicular
perpen-

gratifiedawe.
highly

well-filled
otherwise

from

had

copious

hundred

with

with

beauty

and

There

it broke

as

island scenery,

of its

hours

first visit

my

prized more

abounding

more

two

other
an-

suddenly to
pensated.
least,fullycom-

grand.

minds
is

at

itself

nearly three

our

of this kind

view

to

sion
pas-

and

bruised

at

is indeed

feet, occupied
Here,

moment

previous

whose

sharp stones,
struggle of

presents

scene

feel,for the

we

short

after

"

the

as

The
been

the

is exhausting.

"

waterfall,muddied,

the

reached

we

current

It may

physical fatigue.
against a rock

sometimes

from,
Falling sometimes
slippingat one time among

the

attest

those

subdues

or

winter

the

these

over

only by

picturesque

into the

of

tached
de-

side,

dislodged them.

journey

either

on

over

been

bulk, and

enormous

that

torrent

climb

to

of

bed

the

have

violence

the

is,indeed, achieved

It

cliffs

the

upon

through

rock, which

by

are

supposed

be

well

of

the rest

hammock

lies

stupendous

the

made

compelled

were

masses

from
been

we

in

or

road

The

men.

abandon, and

to

foot,

on

45

WATERFALL.

THE

than

in

streams.

able,
incompar-

the

lack

of inland

the

Church

of

water.

far

But

Lady,
was,
was

the

upon

for

me,

the

bordered

"Palheiro,"
Carvalho
that

agreeable

more

"

"

New

ride

witli
the

and

it commanded

country

and
seat

groves

the

to

or

Not

Camacha.

villas

to

Road,"
to

with

than

quintas
"

of

of

the

that

of the

Conde
trees

it

them

among

beautiful

glorious view

waterfall,

only

late

our

de
"

not

Disertas,

46

AT

QUINTA

THE

CAMACHA.

*.

the

promontory

two

hundred
well

as

fiftyfeet

and
other

as

quinta and

I found

sides

three

on

of

roughly, and

laid

grounds

With

moods.

shaggy
or

Anna, Lizzie,Mary,
sit down
whose

with

her

her

music

voice

silvery sweetness

aught

her

save

has

sun

feel
with

breath

ravines

fear with

no

her, and

Is there
miracles
A

feel

such

find

no

the

another

along

the

stream

runs

and

breaks

house.

swimming

and

fall.

They

than

the

Speering

into

noticed,

diving

were

present

(of course)
lovely

more

than

out, however,

and
more

than

aught

gloom
by

her

of

no

ence
pres-

plummet-reach,

and

her, talk

all this earth

Do

of the

it reaches

approach, a party
the
directlyunder

even
extremely decottetee,

rage,

it

waterfall,

excel

first

with

entering pathway

in the water

pier
hap-

What

some

livelongday

my

cades
cas-

inexpressiveshe ;"

gentle fall just as

on

find

we

her, think

place on
?

piest
hap-

brown

lawn,

fragrant

than
at

ennui

of her

it illuminated

look

"

suppose

glen, whose

some

deeper

her

would

more

repeat themselves

grounds,
the

descend

"

turesque
pic-

day long (while

of

flowers

and

penetrated, and
cross

"

cheeks,

her

save

"

side

alone

and

flying hours

other

cull

"

all
the

the

by

too

variety?

Here

some

or

its face

one

could

harmonious

away

not

natural

; where

more

will

running streams,

and

place for a honeymoon!

while
lasted!)we would

in

and

ravines, precipice and

contrast,

in

Nature

glens
wood

Inclosed

would

one

and
heath

loveliest

varied

o'er

ocean,

by

out

the

visit

to

other

the

to

scenery
these

the

on

open

"

hills,which

heaven

sea,

splendors

in all Madeira.

embracing

winds

the

beteem

with

of the

level

Camacha

at

welcome

warmest

the

above

its fossil-bed

with

striking natural

less

no

chieflybecause

but

Lourenco,

of Sao

hesitated

more

advance.

to

leisurelyfrom

so

an

ambus-

BATHING

THE

which,

cade, upon

drawing
plucked

gait of

like the

'Tis n't

room.

swim.

It is

limbs, like

je

the

These

no

naked

from

and

set, you

can

There
the

than
the

to

freedom
and

can

friend.

After

the

Hermon.

freshened.
Two

such

other

; doubtless

quite

the

dance

of the

funny

to

back

too

there

threshold

is yours.

house

leaves

is

better

wine

than
house

no

exacts

meets

you,

ease.

your

husbanded

or

soiner-

crossed, the

once

Welcome
at

you

the

island

Ceremony
gratification.
; the

make

the

on

ingly,
seem-

near

turn

in time

have

them,

see

They

vortex.

they get
obliged to

your

and

"

round, and,

if

are

circle of

it less.

lie

palate of a
of quantityand quality.
speak gratefully

can

glass would

It is

"

door

like to

ride

of the

leave

hospitableman
this place and

much

so

had
to

ing
leav-

or

'tisn't

"

damned, theirs

; and

turn

of

of the

seemed

somewhat

glide

ing
fall-

They

entering

more

no

they

more

no

man

of the

motion

"

tone.

motion

tossing a baby

out

get

good-breeding

No

quoi

ened
fright-

motion.

'tis n't

upward,

see

proprietor
toll at

on

"

Dante's

waist

always

with

lady

his sufferers.

you

is

visited

on

in

life-like exertions

stream,

no

sais

than

attempt
such

walk

ladies

water
falling

rest

So

unnatural.

wooden

more

and

that,

My

vortex

incessant

to

ne

arms

fascinatingand

in the

fashionable

and
fate.

their wonted

plunge

wood,

passed them.

and

caught

between

retreated,

risk of AcUeon's

no

fated

are

I had

of

were

recoved

soon

figures,once

alternate

the

ran

resolution

up

stream,

nearer,

sensibilities
These

danger,

that these naiades

I discovered
in

first

the

on

47

LADIES.

of

two

or

fall upon

"

host

the

on

jaded
warms

and

Funchal,

from

hours

like

powers

wilted, I lifted

remembrance

persons

choicest

three

my

Though
The

his

taste

my

up

head

dew

and

now.

me

hostess

the

"

characterize

43

THE

place

it

give

"

Whether

with

be

than

make

little

bare

or

snow,

wider

and

deeper

and

tone,

mountain

one

covered

PROPRIETOR.

another

and

moderate

more

plentiful

salubrious
"

but

cosmopolite,

of

exchange
and
visit

of

smile

The

the

these

and

warm

delicious,

little
the

constitute

than

somewhat

climate

one

fruit

or

another,

makes,

of

earth

the

after

all,

little

to

the

difference.
hostess

intellectual

grasp

inhabitable.

river

one

or

"

more

higher

or

"

it

as

we

while

sympathies
which
the

invites

pleasure

the

enter

we

repetition

of

house,

residence.

the

remain,
of

our

50

CHILDREN.

warmest

but

exposure,
than

more

and

Can

indulgences,under a sun
not
only so general,but
like

comes

Nor

old

"

climate

the

It has

the

other
that

one

it

fertilizes

I have

pledges

the

of

hands

Happy

is he

with

of her

affection in

of

at

that

one

giant,so
hath

each
heard
of

three

twenty-eight
Like

"

time.
are

see

of children

brood

the

as

to

regularityof mile-stones.
lady presented her husband

; whose

mended.
com-

women

thing

by

hale

tive
conserva-

succeed

in installments

in

be

ages

innocent

months,

Of

followed

age

is to

uncommon

no

apostolicnumber
with

these

It is

cherishes

or

less than

influence,and

soil.

of middle
the

is

age

slowly comes,

Madeira

of

genei-ativeno

restorative

woman

of

it induces

that

as

old

lusty winter, frostybut kindly."

merely that it prevents or cures
tive
consumpthat

well

it

no

moderate

with

tempered,

that when

complaints, or

or

by

is it

age,

well

so

and

regular gradations.

surprisedthen, that

be

one

in

little

heat

overcome

reached

gently

of but

summer's

difference

this

spasmodic leap,but

difference

"

between

thirtydegrees
frost ;

winter's

88

to

the

dren.
chil-

young

quiver full

rows
ar-

as

of them

!"

to agree
people of this island seem
with the inspiredPsalmist,and dischargetheir arrows
incessantly.

verity,the

Nor

is this laudable

Those

women.

while
of

from

domiciliate

the

climate

fecundityrestricted
abroad

themselves, feel

way

to

have

by

an

to

proper
devolve
upon

been

maintained

unexpected

the

lords',or

the

here,

come

before

and, though

their
proper time, remove
In many
instances,cases

given

who

to

native

and

for

genial influence
unfortunate, in

their

reproach.
seemingly desperate have
Estates, that

treatment.

distant
in lineal

accouchement

own

ened
threat-

unregarded kinsmen,
descent
and
satisfactory

or

; and

gracelessheirs

at

WIVES

THE

law, who

had

thought

them

too

long

wait

seat, have
call

malicious

Indeed

that it

I have

for I would

fellows"

cash, or countryforever, by what they might

estate,

an

or

of

heard

instance

one

influence

of the

of the

with

climate,which,
hesitate

Napoleon, held

of

The

enemies

of

Portugal

well

as

to

them

and

wives, some

of

barren

war,

but

mention

as

the

here for

substantial

proofsof

femmes

du

give

their

in its naked

husbands

heirs.

of

been

when,

returned

them, with

than

more

But

the

attachment.

believe, that

to

less.

or

; and

married

their wives'

regiment" changed

childless

century
years

were

affects

believes,or

ments
regi-

two

them, that had

some

soldiers who

tugal
against Por-

brought

of

quarter

this island

with

England, they returned, nearly all

Scandal

to

whom

regimentsremained

most

"

of

soldiers,many

with

after the

to

possessionof

herself,they garrisoned Funchal

married

tive
recupera-

willinglybe suspected of exaggeration.

While
the English, in their
extravagant

againstthe

wives

made

not

It is this.
contest

"old

attested,I should

well

was

the

Providence.

suggestive

or

for

5t

KEGIIEEOT.

that

balked

been

THE

OF

the

these
climate

prefer the story

simplicity.

island,the fied
gratifather of a numerous
I took
the liberty,
offspring,
after the ladies had retired,to remonstrate
against his
ten being
putting forth any further editions of himself
Dining

one

day

with

friend

on

the

"

much,

as

in

opinion would
for
"It
"

judgment, as a Avell-advised
tolerate.
My friend, who has an

tion
inclina-

piety,replied:

is all in the

Indirectly,"I

The

public

my

worst
even

hands

Lord."

the

said.

feature, so
among

of

the

fecundityis,that

as

far
better

as

the

natives

classes,of

the law

are

cerned,
con-

this extraordinary

of entail

prevailshere

5 '2

ENTAIL.

all its

of

the

the

of livelihood.

means

has
land-holder)
of the
it to
The

seek

or

sterility.To

to

law

of entail ;

of Mai thus.
the
or

"

are

the

more

what

"

society;
the

every

This

what

not

doctrines
action

the

of

legal enactment

for

perpetrate matrimony.

to

are

know

misery

unless

not,
loves

society suffers

from

self-defense

the

upon

crime

cious
atro-

against
births;

unnecessary

authorizes

verbial
pro-

This

company."

is likewise

woman

principleof

it to

employ

counteractingregulation.
nn

Madeira

governed passion
makes

beggars.

met

children, from
I

of

infancy

misery

communication.

and

on

gestures, if

yet wanted

never

regularity of
youthful mendicants

and

ones.

fictitious
Here

the

system ; and
are

the

troops of

puberty, soliciting
not

their

proper

Systematic beggary
real

children

occasion, during

every

almost

to

in

class

poorer

slaves, and

women

their

knavery

eloquent than

the

among

halt-starved
half-clad,

meager,

understood

; for

for

the

Every where,

rides,I

alms.

that
to

wrong

and

they

eager

I
principle,
one

the

of the

anticipatedfrom

I know

country.

of the

abolition

second, the enforcement

first is

itself

estate

crying evils,

two

the
first,

sisters

One
fortunate
unpreventive policecan compel the second.
in every
fact experience has established
try
counof
that
the
more
desperate the circumstances

men,

nyme

these

would.

he

and

his brothers

remedy

necessary

The

mother

it,if

alienate

not

can

disreputableexistence,the

changes

my

He

tenance
main-

cultivate

enough surely to

not

"

for the

sufficient

than

without

(or hereditary

moryado

is,that while

two

On

estate

consequence

starve,

The

more

no

advantage.

runs

scions

antiphilosophicalrigor, the younger

left
house, be they boys or girls,are

in

organ

is but

sorrows

are

practicehas
some

of

guage
lanof

synomore

reached

the

most

greatest proficients.

53

ANECDOTE.

As

Martinho, I

San

into

the

told

broken

After

much

articulation, and

last

provisionsof

without
He

had

with

of
his

I continued

; and

"

he

and

him

two

and

one,

to

edgment
acknowland

money,

ride

my

was

home.

gave

the

the

nigh
pocket

fervent

and

returned

took

kindness, he

the

tears

With

as

"

with

meal

meal,
his

world

if he

buy

to

for himself.

other

from

the

him

kind,

pathetictale,and

the

pistareens,tellinghim
the

in

kill him

would

his father
moved

had

given

some

any

lost the money

he

that

cent

had

venda, and buy

the

to

go

starvation.

dried

him.

that his mother

pantomime,

family was

keep

possessed of

'

pistareento

was

ailed

with

me

parish of

'

mournful

sure

in the

boy, apparentlyabout twelve

ing
Callway side,and moaning.

inquired what

he

sobbing,

somewhere

little knowledge I

whatever

use

Portuguese,

saw

old,sittingby

years

the

day,

riding one

was

with

ing
feel-

satisfaction.

of virtuous

to the same
days after,chance impelled me
I was
as
walking my horse somewhere
locality
; and
the boy, some
the place where
I had met
one
run
near

few

of me,

ahead

former

stopped him, and

beneficiary.

What

is the matter,

I
my
"

"

Oh, signor,I shall be killed.

My

lost

here

You

He

can

mother

venda

to

buy

not

go

home, for

recommenced

course

inquired.
gave

me

meal, and

some

my

he has

in the

the

sobbing

father
world."
on

the

scale.
young

day

every
time

the

my

this is all the money

as

of

crescendo

to

go

it,and

will kill me,

short

his

on

?" I

I have

And

lugubriously.
turning,recognized

boy

pistareento

"

vociferatingmost

and

sobbing

rascal,"said I, "
?

Did

you

are

lose the

you
two

reens
losing pistaI gave

you

since ?"

looked

at

me

an

instant,and, doubtless

recogniz-

54

POVERTY.

addressed

ing me,
by

which
himself

he needed

such

me

gentleman
I could

caught

instances

of

at

in

him

let him

punish him,

him

to

impudence

lie

again

; and

telling

certainly

of the

one

met

we

the

was

I would

is but

precociousroguery

never

his

This

go.

would

known

he

kind

so

laugh

but

not

if I

been

had

who

story had

caught him

good whipping,
pistareens.He threw

than

more

knees, and protestedhe

his

upon

told

him

flight. But
to give him

to

collar,and threatened

the

have

himself

many

where

every

in

the island.
The

destitute

however

not

have

afforded,it

; but

further

hardly

can
as

island is

before.

Even
cut

at the

wood

present time

all

day

five cents.

The

threaten

as

minent
im-

his head

labor,and,

Wages

to

cient
insuffi-

are

become

to

full-grownboy

on

ferers
suffrom

is

for

mountains, and

in the

bring the product down

about

famine

demand

of livelihood.

existence, and

the

to

is,the population of the

truth

to the
dispi'oportionate

bare

to

ity
char-

contributions

expected,while

The

English

great relief

is true,

be

failure of the

and

American

eleemosynary

consequently,means

The

able,
poverty chronic, incur-

made

has

years

by emigration.

save

abroad

stronglystated.

be too

for three

grape

island-populationcan

of the

condition

or

lower.

in the
the

however,

will

man

evening

market

for

generally
the carriers of wood;
everything
as, indeed, of almost
else. The poor live mostly upon
vegetables and fruit,
which
such

are
a

not

Yet
often
do not

dear, and
and

greatly,and

die

seem

an

need

many,

clothing,even

are

little
from

of the

clothing in

the

want

of

cheapestkind,

early.

notwithstanding
extreme

they
But

climate.

warm

sufficient food
suffer

women,

their

suffering,the
unhappy race.

poverty

peasantry
They are

and
of

their
the

very

too

island

kind

to

CONTENTMENT.

Thus

remove.

all,
think

greater
the

it

favors

its

upon

is

that

gift

of

portion

one

wealth
of

contentment

the

Providence

impartially

more

profusion

greater

alleviates

sympathy

and

other,

each

55

and

evils

it

can

distributes,
than

mankind

we

it

luxuries;

upon

without

them.

not

after

sometimes
bestows

another,

in

CHAPTER

THE

OF

TOUJt

ISLAND"

THE

VI.

PRODUCTIONS"

VARIOUS

AT

ARRIVAL

IT

has

said

been

alone

fortunate

are

Goddess

of

The

imagination

let

who

will

scenes

the

think

island

island.

It

speak

above

I had
flood

of
the

luxuriance

of

the

in

level

what

is

read

and
of

I
I

all

but

her

with
I

the
of

heard

dislocations,

of

moving
broken

some

tour

thought,

to

undertaken

and

middle"

of

thousands

of

ously
hazard-

streams

over

eternal,

an

tinuing
con-

grand

hills

fatal

advisedly.

have

over

of

eternity

the

waist

sea,

but

describe

out

To

nothing

metaphysicians

something,

cheval,

of

life

undertook

dead

the

be

of

that

pulse

hopeless

afterward.
"

itself

quickened

sought

be

precipices

false, might

the

it, while

would
of

doubled

come

and

which

journey,

bridged,
a

the

question

December

in

and

where

beauties

encountered

anticipation

determine

this

winter,

feet

who
all

itself,

the

accomplished,

the

they

the

mined
deter-

that

picturesque

may

is

but

hell

leave

us

Sometime

and

never

on

and

in

Indeed,
?

hope

of

Bow

PEAKS-

with

go

upon

him

nothing?

nothing?

But

never

come

happiness

unanticipated

hope

the

like

DIFFERENT

charms.

doubt.

comes

and

who

Silver

the

unobstructed

Is

of

unexpectedly,

nature

should

one

search

in

purpose

that

THE

ANNA.

ST.

and

depth,

roads

step.
accidents
arms,

and

by

field

perilous

58

HILL-TOP.

THE

seemed

of broken

the foam

but

under-current

the

to

underneath

The

light.

of

turrets

mid

high

embosomed

us,

turned

waves

by

the

church

tufted

trees,

peeped out from the surrounding foliage,and

their gaudy coloring of white relieved the scene,
her

from

had

with
wise
other-

awakened

not

Mountain,
quietand motionless.
precipice,cliffs,ravines, and "bosky dell,"
; all was

nap

and

glen,

Nature

invariablygreen.

too

some

stood, illustrated

height

the

all,from

what

painters

call repose.

Near

like

murmuring,
perplexed

me

been

but

from

the

upon

detachments

; what

send

to

to

what, circuitously,
through Funchal
the

fear

most

of exhaustion

question.

no

could

find

"books

universe
The

highest of

the

seem

from

the

these
I

and

tedious
with

mv

keeping

horse.

up

to

kind
aid

"a

the

of supplies,

hope

ters
mat-

cognate

Wanting,

of

him

are

not

feet

they

as

above

fire in the

the

shut

out

Still

their

overcoming

and

the

water-line;

table-land, upon

spur

by

precipitousproximity,

higher beyond.

find, on
of

and

mysteries of

Funchal
their

the

who

sense.

Funchalese,

right glad
combined

from

thousand

direct ;

ocean

thought

grosser

sight

four

summits,

the

latter

the

to

the

those

overlook

island,but,

some

was

our

which

so

ain-streams,
mount-

of

running brooks,"

possess

from

curtained

are

the

agency

mountains

have

exigences

other

indeed,

in

withheld

it

intercommunication, I put them

Happy,

indefinable

some

of

power

found

of these

; the

and

"

first

at

may

their consideration.

urgent upon

however, the

It

the Genii

determine

It

councils.

waters.

among

low

distinguisheda

investigationI

subterranean

to

day

agitated
closer

on

of war,

council

in

horse

my

men

"

proceed

to

I halted

where

which,

burroquero

rear"

"

I could

"

the
trot

THE

surmounting the
and, descending in long
I met,

Funchal,

the

the

sight;
their

overladen

out

They

tendresse.

homes,
labor

Funchal

to

of

religion.

Some

shoeless

For

got up

their

They

rustic

for

hills

natal

and

breechless

almost

pistareen,

the

the

toiling,

were

over

valueless

money

"

Avere

stepping

their

trifle
insignificant

celebrate

to

Jersey

and

from

little

Holidays.

of

day
"

their

almost

head.

the

covering for

all without

crowned

have

with

me,

get

an

gam

"bit,"

even

I could

eighteen miles,

for

them,

impassable,to
or

to

"

Christmas

fiesta,"or

some

told

dragoman

my

their

unencumbered.

their way

on

tippet or

unlike

size,walking erect,

were

in

mountains

their heads

as

of the

picturesque

circular

sticks, not

though they were

prettiestI thought

firm

as

some

"

and

in form

wagon

of

bundles

these

cumbered
en-

down

gracefullyover

in front ; and

tied

shoulders, and

all

borne

the
a

toward

sexes,

was

down

carelesslybut

pelerine thrown
with

It

with
petticoats,

short

both

heads, or

arms.

coming

women

very

their

mountains,

trains

wearisome

and

faggots on

with

earth

to

of further

crests

population of

country

with

59

PEASANTRY.

they plodded on, not uncheerfully,with a ready

and unexpectsalutation,or a blessingfor an unasked
ed
Yet

trifle.
sides
wild

the

hope

of

mountains,

the

beast's

home,

uncovered,

through

went

unfed

and
"

HE

that

but

"

doth

Yea, providently

would

beds

visit these
of down

harsh

dragoman,

the

ravens

caters

stones

"

were

all

night ;" uncouched,

not, I trust, unblessed

the

stony

pedestrians,past

belated

in which

the

cavity, like

occasional

an

These," said my

"

den.

dormitories
of

within

excavated, from

saw

"

for

feed,
for the

with

sparrow,"

sleep,denied

to

60

After
a

varied

and

bread"

I. Goods
Here

I refreshed
horse

my

and

"

with

used

New

with

myself

traversed

six miles

and

half

"

walk

"

"W.

to

mit
sum-

obtained

view.

I found

of my

have

might

"good

or

which

mountain-restricted

hour

the

over

glass of wine,

with

road, from

about

B.

"

to

came

England village.

pleasant though

I had

we

universallyas

as

followers

the

overhanging

"

in

rest, and

born

vigno

"

are

my

miles

initials P. V.

customary

Groceries"

and

four

some

signify pao

They

wine

of

pace

the

venda, with

door.

PEAKS.

THE

in

journey

rode

quicker and

an

less

agreeably.
I

passed
Obebras

Pico

oppositeto

peaked
sentinels, or
warders
detect

maturer

with
had

outposts

of

like

heads

with

the

observant

features

subdued

and

scars

The

sky,

"

"

like

or

would

These

while

furrows, like wrinkles

like

peared,
ap-

smiling. Those,
thinned, and

somewhat

expression

ing,
tower-

eye

man's.

earlyyouth, fresh, and

age,

more

against

contending armies;

walls.

them

in

as

in

relieved

among

Silva,and

their

other, with

each

summits

castle

on

Infante, Pico

left,Pico Lagoa, and Pico Poigo.

the

on

"

stand

They

right Pico

the

on

others

again

livery of

the

old

age.
You

find various

temperature
On

and

latitudes

with

productions

their lowest

their

in either

slopes,turned

corresponding

of these
to

the

ains.
mount-

daily sun,

tropical flowers

and

fruits abound

the

banana, and

the

warmth-loving custard-apple;

the

flowers, the

camelia

and

profusion;

the

less

beautiful

while

the

coffee

brilliant
up

and

the

fruits,
of

japonica,in extravagant size

and
others
ballad-lily,
hardly
many
the

orange-tree,

cork-tree,dazzle

foliage,and
the

the

; among

mountains

gratifythe
we

find

the

eye

odorous
the

the

coral-tree,
their

Avith

way
Hall-

sense.

products

of

our

DAXGEROUS

the

orchards,

higher still,and
strawberry,
All

much

so

in

hour's

an

the

its

plum

and

"

the

delicious

untamed

habits.

summits,

very

sweeter

in

and

apple,

the

on

I found

these

the

pear,

61

ROADS.

journey

the

up

ascend-

in "j road.

Pico

the

divides

peak

with

than

be fatal.

no

roads

These

of the
cost

tourist avoids

this route.

mountains

In the

not

descend

to

there

had

and

seek,

But

here,

and

the

legs and

as

Much

and,

valleyof

to

safer

comprehended

walk."

doubtless,

said

he,

other

my

the

mits
sum-

and

of the

smooth

stones

Ribiero
to

Frio,

dismount,
foot.

on

on

side,

one

clasped me by the
vociferating,
gesticulating,

"

"

of my

rashness

tent.
in-

eloquent gestures
dragoman's language :

fall down

advised

in

their

Wherefore,
well

uous
tempest-

achievement

the saddle

"

the

dragoman

understood

have

the
labor

rain,I prepared

the

on

care

feet.

the

"

rain,the

my

attractive

so

the landmarks

protestingagainstthe

man,"
to

the

thought, a

burroquero
pinned me

I could

trying

to

attendants

my

not

of the

latelybeen

and

if I had

time, after

mean

greatest

otherwise
even

away

carry

as

pended
sus-

picking up."

of immense

or

necessary,

which,

places,to

many

work

"

tenacious

very

About

paved, in

are

is

"

false step, would

horse, or

something

rains would
road.

his

of

the

ascend

hardly more

"

worth

with

way

the

ing,
undertak-

mountain

is

most

yet

"

be

To

road

the bottom

not

there

However,

that

danger

"

would

said,you

part of

arduous

an

of the

indentation

obliged to pick his

then, the slipof
even

and

is

peril. The

is

One

as

with

an

northern

mounted,

It

traversed.

we

determination.

from
precipices,

over

dragoman

the

marked

foot, or

on

sometimes

are

from

unattended

not

highest point

southern

island,and
this

is the

Poigo

for

and

kept
my

hurt
to

the

herself,
saddle,

dragoman,

un-

62

FALL

BUEROQUFJRO.

THE

OF

famous
St. John's
apothegm
consciouslyillustrating
had
about
that
philosophy teaching by example
scarcelytaken ten steps forward, before, his feet sliding
"

"

from

under

of
gratification

his

comrade,

the

when
steep declivity,

his

progress.

with
nether

He

other

no

of his

had

crossed

we

in the

shut

the

"

island.

distance

The

the

We

that

of

his

painfulbarking
his fall ;

on

he

expected
himself

disaster.

table-land, we
the

on

side

eastern

greatest natural

mountains, from

against the

out

of

prodigy

the
in

sky

solitaryslabs, like altars,

saw

; broken
; and

shafts, like

of

columns

sculptured tomb-stones,

ancient

an

world,

Indeed, nowhere

I encountered

have

feet, and

rupture

Feyteiras," or

them, stood

temples
of

Titanic

Ins

inference

of these

peaks

heavens

overthrown

"

Curral," the

I viewed

to

down

arrested

illustration by
practical

mountains

singular shapes.
rise

great

road

congratulated me

the

of the

view

the

argument.

own

As

this

to

decided

the

tle
gen-

no

halfway

somewhat

full well

from

draw

to

and
He

I understood

me

immediately
a

to

of the

turn

injury than

arm.

carried

was

rose

integuments,

of the dexter
and

stone, and

the smooth-worn

force,upon

with

length,and

fell at full

he

him,

views

better

or

amid

memorative
com-

perhaps of the
Alpine scenery

calculated

excite

to

and

gratifythe poeticfaculty.
hundred
Through a ravine many

clothed

from

trees

it,it

saw

in

top

and

to

was

gentle and

that

when

the

loosened, and

the

river

swells

by the

into
roots

on

either

in

and

snows

rains

As

flows.

quiet stream, abounding

noiseless
on

depth, and

ing
side,with flower-

the llibiero Frio

evergreens,

pleasant sinuosities

told

up

bottom,

feet

the

descend

falls.

high
like

But

mountains

am
are

cataracts,

this

tears
mighty and terrible stream
the
firmest-plantedvines, seizes the
a

"

GRAND

from

rock

huge

fury

demoniac

engulfed

the

the

indications

of its angry

that it

intended

was

the

above

by

has

it

When

so.

from

and

near

been

imminent

separated by
yet longed

But

all

of the

hide

vivid

distinctness

struggling with
fury upon wild
in

delirium.

if upon

came

of

upon
a

stream

feet down.

road

view
from
The

on

these

in their

elsewhere,
drama

around

I turned

stream

topmost
was

not

in such

chaos, yet

; Nature

enunciation

arrested
of

of whatever

you,

an

and

some

tastic
fan-

able.
immov-

abrupt angle, and

novel.

It

was

the fall

mountain, hundreds
a

turn

impressing their

masses

the

"

You

themselves.

elements

strikingand
the

ture,
na-

boundless

the

instantaneouslyfixed

shape, became

Travelingthe

the

thing

potent spell,every

of

Switzerland

than

volcanic

heaving

As

had

they

of

there, or

whole

order;
and

if

as

impressive sublimity

; but

snow

seen

"

"

convulsion

avalanche

less wondrous

is not

what

other,

reaching

precipitous

so

"

keeps

mountain

ever

miss, it is true,

relentless

prodigiesno

alone

again.

in ice and

miracles

here

see

the

high

each

greatest

opposing

despair of

is lost in the

We

scenery.

either

so

places

The

to

vehement

meet

labor

our

glacierand
those

to

toil.

high

mountain

some

passable,and

to
some

in

it

stand

frequent

too

opposite

was

almost

valley,you
summits.
They

mense
im-

side its course,

pathway,

up

the

their
so

look

you

and

holiday stream.

the

This

rendered

alone

would

stone-bridge raised

tedious

nearly perpendicular.
labor

than

ascended

and

the

either

on

over

we

from

sweeps

one

width

great

as

for other

stream,

winding

well

as

power

river

the

Crossing

the

with

rushing

Indeed,

ocean.

himself, from

of its bed,

depth

bed, and

unprotected cottage,

the

to

mass

for

determine

its rehtctant
upon

63

VIEWS.

large

one,

nor

of
was

64

CASCADE.

fall wholly

the

series of

to

the

the

in

rock, some

twenty
of the

edge

of the meridian

rays

sparks of lightof many-colored hues; and formed,

countless
break
and
tiny rainbows, which
renew,
from

started
Xext

reached

we

Somber

the

debar

has

inclose

truth,

said of

been

gloomy, and peculiar," and

thoughts ; from which I could
I did with

all

ravine

"

tously
precipiless
of limit-

lend

primeval trees

Avhich

In

rises

overhang it,and

gloom

sun-light.

character," as

which

ravine

clouds

mountains

the

like exhalations.

mountain,

its shaded

to

of

sides

the

spray

Meyo-Metade

the

depth.
horrors

luminous

the

from

as

have

echelon

en

extremest

off,under

it threw

mountain,

of solid

it turned

As

descended

water

grades

natural

feet apart.

sun,

The

unexampled.

been

effect would

the

uninterrupted,or

"

forever

features
"

somebody,
rise

only

line the

it, and

the

gave

new

of its

grand,

are

saddened

to

by gaining,

emerge

possiblespeed, the heights above,

and

revisitingsun-lit grounds.
Madeira

When

first

Avas

discovered,

densely loaded with wood ; and hence

in Portuguese, signifyingwood.
have,

axe

trees,

north

attain to
the

From

the

another

Nor

could

den, who,

I
on

even

save

view
to
;

the

indigenous
But

rier
dividing bar-

by

Time.
add

Fayal river, we
from

the

of the

They

much

to

ascended

top of which

ocean;

be beholden

with

it for the

the

first

savage

spectacle,

without

boundless, endless,and

sympathize

viewing

and

the scenery.

the

frequent,never
of admiration

the

"

vigorous size,and

mountain,

commanding

Poigo

untouched,

valley of

first-class

however
emotion

Pico

remain

loftyand

deira,
Ma-

"

yet repaired their ravages.

impressivenessof

vast

gained

as

name

the

all

was

Fire

side, removed

beyond

the trees

"

south

has taste

nor

the

on

the

on

its

it

new

sublime.
in

Dry-

time, exclaimed

VII.

CHAPTER

OF

ASCENT

RU1VO"

PICO

VIEW

THE

UPON

breath

the

where

rocks

awful

with

JORGE-PASS

SAO

mountains

of

immortality

but

barely

with

for

of

the

sculpture,

and

torrent

of

and

hand,

His

felt

never

of

that

seemed
his

from

view

sky

through

I beheld

and

bristling

of

the

Dante's

as

earth

convulsions

could

have

distinctness.
three
every

the
seem

to

four

where.

island,
like

Lofty
thousand
The

the

around

me.

For,

under
is

"

and
feet

Curral,"

"Torrinhas,"

castellated

fortresses,

the

the

the
so

the

greatest
called
Penha

fissures
violent

most

revealed

height,

and

deep

and

in

ling
start-

cliffs, from

perpendicular
in

indeed,

ainous
Mount-

as

precipices

were

ten
writ-

transparent

ravines

than

alone.

had

stupendous.

crags,

made,

for

be

to

he

less

naught

Pico

of

top

hand

it,

his

companionship

circle, horrid

that

the

on

legible

mountain,

which

rocks

gloomy

this

work

feels

man

sometimes

good
a

the

"

worship.

man's

where

every

power

the

In

God.

nearer

it

tuary
sanc-

tempest

poetry,

mind

than

with

felt

and

nature,

in

devotion

parted

the
His

down

bows

deeper

had

Ruivo.

of

image

the

and

insignificance,

and

painting,

wild

vaulted

our

"

the

pervade
the

"

heavens

ble,
accessi-

to

seems

beneath

anthems

OF

CURRAL.

of

the

altars, and

for

SUMMIT"

GREAT

above,

around,

thing

THE

THE

summits

the

every

FROM

TORRINHAS"

the

met

prodigy
because

cPAguia,

eye
of

they
an

SAO

rock, springing abruptly from

isolated

thousand

height of nearly two

objects,filled
endless

remained

have

the heart

and

downward,
A

refreshing sleep

burroquero

and,

We

luxuriant

chestnut-trees,whose

vine.

was

and

the

of

one

and

those

countries

he,

No

grave.

but

they

soul

which

and

the

the

moments

saved

me

no

gave

the

the

poor,

no

raised
route.

of

from

God
a

without

price.

the

ignorant,
yond
be-

guerdon

ry;
sala-

unctuous

eternal

readilysympathized

burroquero's asking countenance,

church, mingled with his my
own

These

"

the

to

; where

primitiveChristian, preaches

money

dizzy path

to

supported the
quiet,lovely,sequestered

has

have

precipitous

torrents, led

tithes

orisons.

comfortable

his sole

and, entering

of

after

for

with

scending
de-

rehabilitated"

looks

but, like the

not

"

miserable, and

life without

would

danger,

some

life

the

knew,

the

branches

in Catholic

find
a

; and

perplex my

whole

priest devotes

meridian

direction from
Jorge, in a westera
passed the church, nestling amid

Sao

only

excursion.

our

parish
Anna.

the

fatigue,and

the

of

admiring silence,

therefore, I hastened

rugged path, spanning ravines

spots you

awe.

the restless

the summit

and

It

of

hotel.

continued

breakfast, we

in

forest,and

much

of

rider,horse, and

Santa

ous
moment-

speechful. But

Unsated,

my

night

hours

and

after

safelyat
full

other

I beheld

nestlingbelow,

see

pathway.
arrived

plain to

emotions

would,

attained

mountain

inclose

soon

I had

I could

which

vapors,

is

alone

passed before

had

way

with

the

ocean.

could

where

feet,with

mind

the

While, turningwhich
and

69

JORGE.

the

was,

freshness
it to

the

impromptu
hidden

perhaps,
and

may

the

precipice,or
necessary

exaltation

an

comprehension

table-land

prayer

of

there
to

of the

quiutas

and

"

the
ders
won-

cot-

70

THE

tages

prodigality of

the

"

cultivation

with

"

forms

whose

on

and

Sao

Jorge,

had

witnessed

the

It

reached

of

ascent

Near

terrific
smooth

false

below.

step,

rises

abrupt

first unseen,

and

the

reveals

The

Trosachs

Notch

at

means

fearful

so

nowhere

such

the

in

as

storm;

the

battle.

and

gives unknown

And

how,

impotence
those

The

of the

power

amid

! the

of

sense

of
Man

it !

you,

outlet, at
of

Scotland,
in

New

by

are

I have

seen

kindle,

emotions

our

in the

danger

thrills

midst

our

of

nerves,

conceptions.

our

like
our

above, and

fearful,though

as

scenery

vanity

Eternal!

It is

warms,

to

unfathomed

whose

Indeed

grandeur.
blood

paved,

resemblance,

in character.

our

is

Mountains

White

magnificent,to contemplate

the

upon

road

Highlands

of somewhat

awful

is

and, perhaps, greater

another
in the

road.

while, before

rock,

we

inclination

from

you

that

fearful

into the

rider

of

the

the

beneath;

mountain

Hampshire, though
no

which

reposes,

Ventura.

stumble

trip or

and

open

but

obstacle.

ravine

tects
pro-

exhausting

an
a

struction
con-

alone

Boa

over

Precipicesthreaten

chasms

an

and

"

with

stones

yawning

rock,

Torrinhas, after

hours

the

frail

thence

direction

we

hundred

many

giddy height

this

inland

an

scenes

toward

fatal grasp
the

de

overhangs

lovely village of

precipitatehorse

abyss

though

ear,

part of the

upper

large

finest

cliff which

Below

three

one

"

of the

whose

of the

pass

some

the

would

from

taking
the

the Arco

neared

we

one

fills the

traveler.

on

us

skirts

serenity,the

was

as

mountains,

tured,
grotesquely sculp-

wood, projectingfrom

of

lofty

were

view

road

and

"

of

quietgrandeur. Thence,

of

tumult

feet below

in safe

our

afforded

Eutroza," the

sea, whose

summits

with

harmonizing

nature

semicircle

and

opened

"

TORRINHAS.

this,do

works,
builds

feel

we

compared

columns

of

our

with

marble,

THE

and

of

The

other, too,

stone

His

columns

the

Alpine

Indian

hills,whose
the

by

leveled

by

in the

beginning, are

Curral

they

say, tried

then

elaborated

exhausted

bed

cliffs rise

of

former

down

the

hills by which

and

and

the

and

lofty

encircled,
of

the

I first

Torrinhas,

it,and

above

it

was

mountains.

Its

small as the toys of

buildingsseemed
there was
something impressive, aye,

But

its vast

mist

the

obscured

the

the road

dangers of
uncovered

the

peaks
of

my

circuit

path

as

; but

as

night

up

a
was

and

added

bivouac

mensity.
im-

gloomy

descend

prepared to

Curral, which

all

alternative,I plucked
occasional

every

other

oppressive,in

advice

on

where

of the

of reflected

shadow

into

the

From

of feet

the Torrinhas

and

it is

the

on

fullydistinguishable. For

was

thousands

by

children.

or

and

scenes,

watch-towers

the summit

it,on

its bottom

on

other

Perpendicular

ranges.

upon

some

church

the

Nature,

scenery.

in

of Grenada.

darkened

were

Curral,

lake, hemmed

AlpujarraMountains

was

The

ravine

atalayas, or

nothing

His

defend

enormous

an

the

looked

they

"

north.

Madeira

It is

this.

from

out

resemble

and

towers"

on
'prentice-hand

her

mountainous

by

of

master-piece

the

the

on

But

Freiras, is considered, by the tourist,

generally,

das

Curral

"

As

"

the

shall be."

ever

turrets," or

"

the

to

entrance

side

"

Torrinhas

The

of the

by

powder-blast.

and

now,

works

shattered

eternal
immeasurable, invincible,

are

The

wave,

the

knows

beginning

limit.

no

centuries.

pyramids; but
rock, His pyramids

inaccessible

broken

lightning,or

outlast

and

columns

duration

be

may

one

the

and

time, whose

no

builds

are

which

pyramids

ay,

"

71

CURRAL.

on

greatly tc
these

otherwise

the

cold

only

resolution,and, contrary

guide, proceeded

breeze, upliftingthe

An

downward.

mist,

revealed

to

to

us

NATURE'S

72

KXTKAVAUANCIKS.

moment
at the
whose
were
we
precipices
very brink
to the
approaching,till my escort, fearing their vows
lion,
no
longer heard, broke out in open rebelVirgin were
and I was
obligedto stop. Fortunately,in a short
time
after,the meridian sun dissipatedthe vapors, and

enabled
I wish

Curral

the

whole

could

is on

scene

with
all

to

all

it at

mind

beyond

Curral

it shut

inclose

summit

reach

above

the

these, an

to

sea

the

nicest

ing
of color-

art

and

height

the

feet

mountains

by

six

as

of

the

mountains

from

thousand
in

hemmed

Fold

the

wrorld

three

some

"

that

the rude

great

as

the

or

not, unless

out

It is

recluse.

the level of the

adequate picture,he

Freiras,

des

I know

Why,

which

attempted

one

present discovery.

any

It is called

over

comprehension

before

an

added

perceptivefaculty,and,

Nuns."

defeats

once

cordant
dis-

so

victorious

time, deep studies,and

require much

would

The

sublimely grotesque,

so

another's

to

convey

of them.

one

originalextravagance,

description. Indeed,

defies

Nature, they

so
preconceptions,

our

imagination,that

and

this is

of such

scale

grotesquely sublime,

so

described.

be

affectations,and

has her

say,

proceed.

to

us

gious
reli-

above
whose

thousand

feet

their

Upon

jagged peaks we could

small spots of snow
sparkling in the sunlight like
diamonds
of a crown,
which, when
approached,
sea.

would

knew

of

diadem

turn

out

clouds, stood

its size and

claims
from

by
near

to

the
the

We

channels

earthquake.
Curral

In

appears

one

of natxire's

the

precipice more

like

out

spasms.

saw

Pico

despot, in

many

seemed

to

to

The

have

been

cataract

fearful,the

face

we

been

more

of the

formed

around

thrown

is

its

bursting

torrent

thing

its

cold isolation,

confirming

have

truth, every

the

Ruivo, with

solitude

mysterious

supremacy.

it whose

fields.

vast

see

out

or

in

riotous,
mountain

VIII.

CHAPTER

THE

VINTAGE

THE

"

ORIGIN

OF

THE

OF

ONE
in

of

of
the

since

The
the
is

month

in the

scarcely

plump,

the

gathering

New

abolition-ism,

united

New

in

boyhood.

my

holding

of

land,
EngEngland

temperance-

of

part

the

three

some

and

there

"

these

feet

four

or

round,
is trained

which

vine,

the

in

early

"

island
than

sight

from

canes,

September

above

"

is the

profusion

and

the

gushing"

word

of

showering

the

when

vintage,

Bacchanal

out

the

in

time

grateful

more

Purple

reels

to

grape

earth,

"

promise

to

the

and

eye,

keeping

hope.
and

women

the
the

safely

KINDS

labor

"

husking

"

southern

net-work

In

into

is the

half-holiday

some

pendants

Sweet

"

The

isms

purple

ground

it to

in

Madeira

like
in

mature

grapes

along

is made

was

VARIOUS

rheumat-ism.

and

ism,

it

as

indulges

only

in

enjoyment,

rather

or

THE

WINE

times

It

vintage.

festive

with

nicest

the

GRAPE"

MADEIRA.

girls,
with

vineyards

that

we

But

Providence

might

of

that
Hebes

apportions

of

portion

bring
these

in

blessings.

men,

gather
their

on

girls

pouring
its

the

and

baskets

they

Would
think

their

These

grapes.

balanced.

with

fully
care-

heads,

prettier,

were

out

go

such

wine

MAKING

thus

75

WINE.

picked over, "escolhido," and the good and indifferent separated the
for the costliest wine.
best reserved
They then are
The

grapes

gathered

are

"

wine-press,a wide, clumsy trough of

Avhich men
jump, barefooted, with their

into

thrown

the

into

wood,

rolled

trousers

and

up,

trample

the

out

advantage of expressing the juice with

to

be

do

not

they give

that

Too

juice.

pure

this delicate
has
collected

and

out

squeeze

mix

much

care

drawn

together

in

cord, subjected

After

some

exhausted, the juiceis conveyed

there

to

lever

said to

are

into casks

emptied

the

the
upon

first

pression
ex-

remaining portion is
integument, and fastened

all

and

with

off,the

which
goat-skins,

seeds, and

be bestowed

vine.

by
in

and

stem

not

can

The

the feet is said

their bitterness

of the

product
been

the

to

way

juice.

The

pressure.
the

to

grapes

store-houses

give it additional

for the process

flavor,

of fermentation,

Water
usuallylasts four or five \veeks.
is thrown
into the wine-press,after the juice has been
extracted, and this, mixing Avith the refuse,
carefully
which

and

the

undergoing

forms

the

the

as

process

juice before,

foot-water, which
pe," literally

"

agoa
the

at

same

the

to

ventas

lower

classes

at

is

tailed
re-

moderate

price, which

they drink often immoderately, and induce

diarrhea, particularlyif used after the fermentation

has

commenced.

The

vintage bringing

with

their

simple harmony

dances
grace,

here,
with

and

of

every

great abandon

all around

the

the voice

accompany

tolerate

hear

peasantry,
"

the

to

the

makes
a fiesta
goat-skins,
evening you hear every where in the

of

used

Funchal

tilled

and

an

into

these
you

machete
and

festivals out
merriment

as

of
and

environs

guitar,

small

dance.

body sings,if
; and

"

frolic ;

not

Every body
with

much

the delicious

doors, you
innocent

see

ings
even-

and

revelry.

76

ORIGIN

THE

THE

GRAPE.

wine, having ceased fermenting,is drawn

The

put into
blood, or

lees,and
ox

eggs,

added

to

each

The

the

to

gypsum;

of the grape,

having been previously

WINE

palate;

gratefulin

most

figs,the

of the

MARKET

IN

four

royal

there

are

mouth,

the

soiqycon

tion.
fermenta-

acetous

GOAT-SKINS.

other

not

are

grapes,

which, with

banana,

constitute

able
agree-

however,
the

the

fresh

ary
custom-

of breakfast.
it is

grape,
some

TO

the

and

orange

avant-bouche
The

prevent the

to

that furnish the best wines

grapes

of

usuallywith

pipe

BRINGING

off the

it is clarified with

casks, when

sweet

made

also

brandy,

under

OF

centuries

house

the temperate

from

generally allowed, came

of

ago,

through
It

Braganza.

climate

and

on

the

soon

the

prus
Cy-

patronage

improved,
volcanic

soil

OLD

of this island

demonstrated

that

adapted

for

volcanic

within

Vesuvius, and
vines

of

the

Hermitage,

The

fancy of

and

throve

developsand

bottle

was

him, first
cus

the

saw

under

merits

itself.

In

reached

earlier

loftyverse

then

which,

sings its
from,

of the

Her

with
Plau-

be, borrowed

art.

as

astically
enthusi-

before, and

gratefulcommemoration

in

of wines.

boast

cultivation

fine

shine,
sun-

much

Plauco," while

years

Greece, the
of

the

how

too,

amphora,

forty

dignity

the

found

soon

dwells
poet-laureate,

it may
inspiration,

an

positions

its cultivation

governed

light,"Consule

Consul, some

was

soils and

of

the

earth.

slopes,basking in

cotemporaneous

on

granitic

gladden

They

much

of

debris

and

of the

mold

as

of

others.

the intrinsic value

Horace, Bacchus's

now.

and

most

early discovered,

enhances

cob-webbed

that

ancients.
in

best

are

influence,flourish the

for certain

best

has

neighborhood

of calcareous

limy soil,and

on

soils

Falernian

the

the

to

vine

France, affects the

mixture

accordingly. They
The

of

the grape

unknown

that the vine

age

the

of its

spring from

man

not

was

In

Italy, the

boast

the

calcareous

and, generally,the wines

of

heart

history of
or

reach

or
decomposed hills,

soils ;

whole

its cultivation.

to

choicest

the

77

WINE.

vine

poets built

of their indebtedness

made

"It

Their

best

and

occasions

for the

sacrifice to the

them
to

of

Troy,

to

bring

out

Achilles's

tent,

the

acceptance

some

the

their

reserved

the
bridal-feasts,
the

before

unfold

they

When

gods.

sought
reparation,upon
fate

wine

oldest

"

soul divine."

Anacreon's

son

message,

of his

of

for the

coronation,

embassadors

of

Thetis
he

father's

would

directed
own

or

memnon
Aga-

large offers
which
depended

with

of

est
great-

of
the

permit
Patroclus

selected

wine,

78
and

to

of the

success

of the

and

since

ever

society,the
Homer

tells

soil of Madeira

The

Felice, where
nor

Achilles

us

prejudice

that

lias

the

been

Madeira
fashion

it for

affected

with

Sherry

thought

la' mode,

Those

royalty.

make

to

be

to

who

It is

as

charge againstthe wine,

specific

is to

the

do

it is

where

nowhere

residents.

or

wines

this may

be

is

sure

the gout.

Brandied

equal

injure.
that their
own

of deleterious

wines

It
own

is the

Madeira

unknown

undermine
of any

substances

safety. "Nothing

indulgence
shorten

the

life;
wines,

too

in the

intoxicate,and

are
qualities

in them

the

quent
fre-

facture,
manu-

constitution.

peculiar felicityof

alcoholic

to

of other

which, from
the

kind

and

truth

than

suffer less from

they

injurehealth

said with

island.

the

on

better

is

it of

physicians

Doubtless, excessive

would

to

do

disease

particularlyof Champagne,
admission

or

to

accuse

eminent

most

experience

older

Indeed, the

in Madeira

and

drink
and

made,

gout.

natives

they

the
is

So

contrary.

Nowhere

the

of

the

join
expedient

"

opinion,however,

It

Avho

one

producing this "old-gentlemanly" complaint

The

vulgar

it necessary

it

of the

every

deemed

have

as

Campagna

naturally produces gout.

decry it from the time

to

Prince-Regent forsook

left ;

wines

best

sanitaryproperties.

their

xmlike, or

two

historic Falernian

the

of the

aroma

seemed

polished

to

of the

to

wrongs

and

right

that

grows

and

flavor

the

are

all elevated

resembles

and

grew

forgethis

to

that

attributed

Ulysses

passed from
passed it.

has

bottle

Even

cup.

doubt

no

be

to

himself,

to

be

mainly

occasion, in

that

known

can

Achilles

craft,and

his

lay aside

is

And

goblets.

best

reasons

mission

the free circulation

to

WIXE.

confession,there

the

withholds
the

for

Homer,

THIS

unmeasured

in

it out

serve

though

IN

GOUT

NO

therefore

sufficient
doth

wines

Madeira

suffer

to
a

their
sea-

SCIENTIFIC

for
change" by exportation,

themselves, like virtue.

mixed

is true,
but

herself

virtue

as

WIXE

HAULING

the

That

discoveries

of

OX

careful

properties and
been

TJie

the

sole

aspect

proved
upon

given

thus

by

of

pernicious,

contact

with

an

the
very

and

have

the

the

facilitated

The

study

of

improve

the

of
enlightened investigation

the

much

the

accomplishment

of

soil,and

under

results

"

Nor

such

has

experimental study.

the
a

to

soil.

the

different

producer.

greatly

vineyard lends
all-importantconsideration.
same

vice ;

OXEN.

grape.

done

capacitiesof

which

sometimes

are

become

WITH

SLEDGE

science

cultivation

proper

by

they

suffers

has
chemistry,particularly,
fruit

They support

worse.

emptor, let the buyer know

caveat

The

the

and
foreignspirits,

with

79

DISCOVERIES.

to

The
same

difference

the
same

has

sun

vines

care

traced

have
to

80

QUINTA

THE

OF

THE

CONSUL.

of

variations

aspect. The vine, to produce

exquisiteflavor,should, like the sunflower,
"Turn
The

It should

its God

to

look it turned

same

in its heat

bask

when
when

all the

he
he

of

wine

sets,
rose."

time

it is above

the

horizon.

judicious selection of the plants, seasonable

careful
irrigation and
pruning of the vine, proper
The

maturing

of the fruit

necessary

to

the

stomach,

the

the

matter,
virtues
and

which

Some
their
the

New
and

brought

earth

abundantly

more

intrinsic
out

requiresmore
it.

rewards

island

about
The

mile

torrent

bottom

to

of

certain

dissolution

of the

winter.

which
have

For

last

are

so-called

hillocks

down

by

fertile

furnish

soil of the
summer,

same

the

mounds

the

"

Cote

kind.

Non

accompanied

is

posed
com-

annual

storms

of

gundy,
of Bur-

Chambertin,

inexpertus

by

from

above, dis--

d'Or"

and

Romanee

tent
ex-

bed

the vine

the tempestuous

slopesof

in

ravine, or

with

or

faces

; and

highest ground. The soil

fresh mold, the product of an
rocky

with

acres
fifty

some

terraced

"

the

on

Fnnchal

sides of

two

March,

covered

quinta

the

borne

The

his

from'

grounds

greater part the

and

of

Consul, Mr.

pleasant little villa

exhausted

lodged

American

grounds

It is

sea.

an

the

plant of

The

Road,"

of

undefined

the

of the

most

sun

those

the rich saccharine

proprietorsattach vineyards to
quintas (countryseats),
mingling the useful and

the vine.
"

and

; while

No

of the

qualities

astringentproperties,which
vine, and which affect injuriously

cheerfulness,are

attention,or

assiduities

of the

promote

ornamental.

had

of the

some

removed

are

aroma,

developed.

devoted

the

these

unreclaimed

in the

reside

are

perfectdevelopment

By

of the grape.

such

"

Monsieur

loquor.
Jules

82

THE

the

is

time, there

mean

of

wines

the

different

and

Sherry, or Sherry
of

full-bodied,some

our

grandfathers, men

in

heavy.

while

The

Port.

wines

the

of the

are

Tinta

or

The

Sercial

taken

in full

But
the

odor

ribs

after soup
the

soul

favors
On

to

to

trouble
their

and

the

are

The

victim

the Tinto.

the

of

create

under

It sends

could.

pastils. A

an

glass

predisposes

gratitude

the

the

and

"

the

ingly.
accord-

soul

before, and

dry

very

treated

be

to

verity, if

be

than

grace

fullness

Of

would

sweeter

Bual, the.

the

wine.

dry

room

descent

stopped

rich contents.

information

know

at

emphasis, came

wide

the Chateau

of

sense

The

to

the

The
from

of

the

"With

cellars,and

some

tasted

major-domo
how

not

winding
Johannisberg, the

Metternich.

admission

regarding

patientlyinclined.

"

down

celebrated

gained

designation I

with

fied
grati-

be

not

island

Malmsey,

"

of the

property

deed,
In-

sherries.

come.

my

Rhine,"

the

than

red

delicacy of flavor, and

bouquet might
death," if any thing

confirms

various

are

deeper

could

It is potent, and

others

unsurpassed anywhere.

glasses,the

through

delighted

heads, and

of the

its

of

light,

are

have

of

side

aroma,

is called

after.

morning

would

which

Madeira,

Burgundy

Some

paler than

Sercial, the

the

dry, some

are

of the island.

south

properties,are

finest

Madeira

Some

those

wines

best; and, indeed, in

cheerful

between

capacities. They
are

In

between

strong

again are
is hardly a taste
of

wines.

difference

as

that
of

There

some

fruity taste.

others

there
with

and

modern

to

color, too.

Port,

island

Some

others

suited

great

as

the

and

better

Maderia

general designationof

the

under

SERCIAL.

to

wines

best
a

(whose German
much
spell)gave me

wine
vine

"

all which

he
he

to

had, he told
had

caused

hear

to

me

be

83

JOHANNISBEKGER.

transplantedfrom
produced a wine
"

right

Madeira

from
dared
"

in

out

trout

his

girdle,bade
"

to

came

bodega,"

than

guarded
such

the

doubt

if I should
effect of the

to

so

moved,

what

out, and

his native

"

If
been

for

Xot

to

crypt,

a
or

relics of
ingly,"
exceedI fear

truth

a
racity
ve-

of the

bottle!

The

gratefulsense,"
extended

and

nearer,

aroma.

the

on

spidercould

be

feelings? more

my
The

major poured
out
glass
my

I held

crowned

estate

of

Europe.

experiments, has

grape,

wholly

draw

mostly bought

houses

other

and

head

!"

was

his

reply.

sells

is

royal

not

"

whole

the

Unconsciously

amazed

bottle,and

built

cork.

uncorked

described.

"

wine

to

have

than

replenished

this and

that

the

must

I drank.

somewhat

if

from

catch

easilyimagined

He

reputation for

my

tell the

to

venture

at

I did.

From

the

"

antennae

bundle

bottle, " beautiful

upon

protected covert

This

entered.

spider, pleasedwith

his

be

out

perfume

remorseless

left his

He

thrown

bo

the

indeed

carefully extracted

might

from

famishing

they place the images

in, he drew

and

the

like

spoke

improved.

storehouse, better

or

rest.

in churches

as

the saints

to

the bait

recently
there,and

was

Sercial

follow ; which

me

be

key

island,

hint

could

and, releasinga huge

"

the

wine

that

that

on

that

him

drunk

he, swallowing

Wait," says

On

;" I told

often

had

believe

not

which,

called Sercial.

meetin'

"

and

Madeira,

which

before

up,

Prince

the

dollars

the

vintage,for

Metternich, by

done

much

will induce

excuse,

five

at

to

improve

palliate,
performed in the
to

many

part he

Holy Alliance."
The

MALMSEY

It should
women

be
and

costlywines

is too

taken
children.
of the

as

luscious
a

wine

liqueur, and,

It is

one

island,and

of the
is

for
as

ordinary use.
such, only by

rarest

produced

and

most

nowhere

84

THE

Little

else.
the

of it is grown,

greatest
old

loved

its

their

cultivated

their
of

cells,weary

little,or
them

much, they
in

prayer,
which

intent

wholly

so

they
of

wanted

tales

AL,

the time

adds

had.

It

nor
a

demands

The

vineyards

monasteries,

mellow

wine.

The

succeeding

year,

best

of Padre

it has
a

which

from

in the

men."

Its grape,

is

the

at

rapidlyafter.
least

The

half

one

every

pleasant
thing,

grape

grows

the wine

of

produced

from

district

Catholic

Holy

called

of

Church,

port.

Madeira

course

San
a

the
Mar-

worthy

wine

Its

of the

cask

Burgundy,

of the

glow

peculiarexcellence.
in the

the

the

sun-set

the husks

remain

give to
of

Joao,

all that

flavor of

color
to

island

the

also

TINTA,

boasts

and

the

on

holy

gathered

softens

this.

skilled in the vine.

well

man,

to

in

gift,"that,
these

time, that

duction
intro-

for poetry, the Biial is

mellowness

priestof

"

Yet

petite.
ap-

Eve

an

the

wrong

be

bodily

was

expulsionfrom

maiden, should

infancy.

each

dearer.

in

hours

save

of

additional

scarcer

warm

their

say true,

Horace

in its

so

promised

than

maturity. Either wither

Sercial,which should be kept at

Unlike

tinho

that

more

last best

is a delicate and

moment

very

of

them

given

of Paradise

have

this," Heaven's

Andalusian

an

solitude

pass their

to

soul

they

indeed

may

"if ancient
Bu

had

another

wont

and

great degree, caused

The

In the

that

ters
clois-

"

gratifiedmind

whom

it,and

their

gladdened

upon

were

vintage.

and recuperativepotations potations

vigils,

What

like

world

moisture

vine, cherished

this

with

only

or

without

pass

devotions.

little

that

Its rich flavor

juice.
warmed

and

often

years

monks

and

slightestfog

The

care.

blights it, and

The

MONKS.

OLD

It

grape,

latter

wine,

gains its
which

are

during fermentation,
of the

cause
be-

rich
lowed
al-

and

astringentproperties
is ephemeral.
peculiar excellence
some

BUKGUNDY

THE

Unlike

Two

age.
Thence

its

are

years

flavor and

insipid,soured,

morose,

climacteric.

grand

Hs tender

from

value

no

age," and, like them, should

certain

wines, it gains

gradually loses

becomes

aroma,
"

three

or

it

island

other

the

85

MADEIRA.

delicate

like ladies
be

of

sedulously

avoided.
But

in its

Moore's

nor

her

her

it ; for

to

coloringis not warmer,

exciting. Burning Sappho"

more

taken

from

leap,or,

Claude's

"

verse

have

might

prime,

fill of

it before

parent, Burgundy, would

dicted
ad-

perhaps its immediate

beget the frenzy of

unless

wine,

no

often

been

have

history,might

Leucadian

the

sooner

love.

The
softer

and

known
less

is

TINTO

dark

juicier than
"

the pure

as

very

palatable,and

with

which

from

the

white

in its natural

Such
Others
that

the

are

It

Tinta.

the grape,"
Mixed

the

larger,

grape

is sometimes

being naturally

with

watei-, it is

for the meats,

table.

VERDEILIIO,
It

grape.

is

wine

rare

strong-bodied

general consumption,and

seldom

of the normal

of their

wines

commixture,

of the island.
which

among

as

"Madeira

parts,of which

are

the Verdeilho, the

principally

and

wines

exported
Bual
and

taste
"

mother

Instead
us

; and

butts," and

do, the

The

ground.
"

the

sun

is

the

component
Tinto

kinds,differingin color,

mingled

together

from

the

exported.

keeping their
Madeira

Wine;"

of various

quality, are
of

duced
pro-

state.

best

made

are

leave

for

fit accompaniment

is also the

wine, too potent

used

the

others.
a

it should

there

wine, from

juiceof

the

potent than

Then

red

wines

in

proprietors

interior

of

their

cool, the
kept deliciously
being watchfully excluded.

cellars,as many
store
"

them

bodegas"
heat
It is

and
a

of

above
"

houses
store-

glare of
perfumed

86

AMOUNT

TH.E

side

either

on

of

bouquet

various

bountiful

pipes
than

of

which,
fifth

one

has

are

fingers

or

therefore,

is

Intoxication

rarely

tomed
accus-

others,

peasantry,

nothing

but

one,

"

Letters,

No

nation

is

of

wine

distillation
filled

has

It

Prohibit
no

Maine

which
the

distillation,

Laws."

is the

(like

world

necessity

cheap

with
and

would

the

and

and

abolish

the
for

the

the

inclination,
never

to

cess.
ex-

Jefferson

in

his

sober

ardent

civil

the

make

none

spirits

discovery

tional
excep-

than

person

and

says

widows

exist

an

the

on

among

degraded

substitutes

beverage."

common

even

porter's
ex-

ducing
vine-pro-

sometimes

drunken,"
is

of

than

always,

the

Spain,

reputable

own

wine

wine

where

"

dearness

the

drink

vice

Madeira,

may

his

intended

probity.

as

other

see

more

with

Portugal,

less

say,

save

They

other.

the

I
In

is

they

necessity,

thief;

in

inebriety.

drunkard

the

30,000

never

the

well

as

to

say,

himself

never

did

France,

of

case

or

to

behooves

taste

Neither

in

nor

It

yood

25,000

safe

acquaint

to

for

countries.

Rhine,

it is

wine.

good

was

from

given

however,

reputation

"

ever-fresh

an

"

visitors

handkerchiefs

season

purchaser,

and

Some

diffusing

breath.

their

"

butts

fragrance

aromas.

their

of

hedges

unrivaled

an

scent

to

of

them,

through

promenade

PRODUCED.

of

feuds
with
duties

the

where
as

the

process

of

Rome)

orphans."
on

wines,

enforcement

of

IX.

CHAPTER

ARRIVAL

PRESIDENT

OF

ROBERTS

I.IBERIA

OF

ACCOUNT

UNITED

THE

BETWEEN

of

disposal

from

Presidency
he

had

with

majesty

interviews

been
in

with

"

his

to

his

which
dined

had

his

an

at

had

had

of

nephew

of

both
He

and

in

came

return

in

France,

ident
Pres-

placed

his

on

England,

the

He

received.

well

the

Roberts,

been

was

and

England

countries
her

He

STEAMERS

OF

COAST.

J.

had

ROBERTS'S

MR.

LINE

"

Madeira.

which

Queen.

the

by

CONSUL"

WESTERN

J.

in

Avar,

THE

PROSPERITY

THAT

AND

arrived

of

ship

OF

AND

Excellency,

Liberia,

English

TRADE

STATES

His

clay

ONE

DINNER

"

ITS

"

several

uncle"

at

another

woman

the

Tuileries.
He

accompanied

was

perhaps

"

the

color

the

feet,

and

than

well

"

blood

and

He

Madeira,

the

Consul

in

bed-chamber

of
a

of

always
gave

duty

of

figure

of

Queen

the

nice-looking

He

fell

the
like

him

on

the
me

have

agreeable
guest,

of

the

and

Consul,

to

which

attending

and

he

telligent
inhe
ducted
con-

invited

foreign
the

of

society.

to

governor,
of

two

or

accustomed

dinner,

darker

and

day

six

taint

no

manners,

American
one

man,
not

was

who

America,

was

island-dignitaries,
The

the

quite

became

himself

The

is

meet

we

at

the

proportioned."

"

tarried

of

and

wholly.

president

many

African

of

somewhat

Ethiopian

But

wife

"

and

Clubs.

his

ladies

the

of

one

by

sable

suls.
con-

lady

88

DINNER

table,and

the

to

shocked

les

AT

of

THE

CONSULATE.

next
sitting

in the

convenances

It would

her.

to

United

have

States;

but

left my

prejudiceswith my country, and black as

companion was, I attended to les petits soins of my
my
if she had
been
the fairest of
as
positionas faithfully
She seemed
skin.
to like the
Champagne, which she
had

carried

well

as

with

while

her

drank

she

conducted

I did

indeed

think

have
her

suppose

with

her

others

said,and intimated

happy.

"

side,

all the

flirtation
of

marriage

might

one

Nor

I led her

as

propriety.
a

indulge.

to

did

from

the

gratefulacknowledgment

appetite.
with

olive

an

plexion,
com-

ing,
quiet,unpretend-

was

French

say, of

would

she seemed

seemed

"

appreciatewhat

to

sympathy

retain

to

I believe

If so, he

for otherwise

attain

He

of

the

he

it had

manner,

; and

such
than

sons
permere

had

always
slave,perhaps in
not

emancipated when
if possible,
difficult,
from

servility

him.
distinguished

possessed

for

coast, and

the little attention

was

year

been

for

attachment

equally removed

of the great

said much

born

was

doubtless

was

presumption, which

every

much

country, though his lot there

Virginia.

and

other

of the kind

She

her

ton

; but

interestingcompanions

more

Roberts

his native

to

But

haitt

of words.

Mr.

young

her

the

as

for silence."

been

strictest

quite pretty,

talent

makers

the

hand,

sparklingeye.

far

Tinta

else than
to

was

somewhat,

are

her

confession

of my

aught

Roberts

with

her

attentions

and

the

indisposedto

not

disposed

pressure

of my

of

the

inclination

any

been

table, indicated
Mrs.

glass of

herself

restrained

otherwise

lady

Portuguese neighbor on

dessert; but

the

course

other

any

glass with

while

with

as

lucrative

doubling

opportunitiesour

trade

her

with

paid

to

Liberia

country
and

the

it,while England

profitsfrom

that

source.

90

STEAM-LINE.

recognized for some

years
England as an Independent Government

had

Liberia
and

France

President

Roberts

Americans

were

the

That
trade

present,
is

there

be

exertion

sanction

of

into

the

of Africa.

the

of such

steamers

on

the

distant

and

States

African

under

emerge

the

The

arts

five

years

the

well

as

the

free

as

ers
steam-

coast

western

prescience which
the proposition.

substitution

easy

the

free

we

tain
main-

now

growing

sity
neces-

blacks, will,at
of such

himself

colored

be devoted.
Roberts's

no

tion.
proposi-

ed
Unitfor

warmly

of

The

people ;
the

which

to

sales

of

kind, in furtherance

proceeds

of

the

historyof Liberia,

ly
administration, conclusive-

colored

people, when
of

contact

at subordinate

cultivate,with

bill

commerce
rapidly-increasing

of this

the

that

of

the

carrying out

discouraging

and
various

of the

should

from

public

hi his last great effort in the

thought

demonstrates

from

the

scheme

President

the

line of

entertain

to

Senate, pronounced

public lands

of

costlysquadron

coast,

Webster,

colonization

object,he

the

exportation of

Governmental
the

refused

for the

day, compel
Mr.

or

cious
saga-

introduced

the

countries,and

two

for the

proper

Some

engage

and

colleagueslacked

doubtless

between

to

States

United

distinguishedhim,
But

no

establishment

for the

His

doubt.

Committee,

Naval

the

between

be

Stanton, of Tenn., then the efficient,

Mr.

House

country, if the

our

can

slightedby

remunerating

enterprise. Four

an

the

been

off-shoot."

endeavored

have

since,the Hon.
chairman

and

there

such

to

it had

but

when

add,

to

great opening for

made,

Americans

"

it is the

Liberia

between

well-bred

too

was

of which

country

by

been

to

an

the

removed

whites,

independent

perhaps equal

success,

can

dition,
con-

the

peace.

English, and

Europeans generally,do

not

enter-

PREJUDICE

tain

prejudiceagainstthe African, which

the

and

generally

so

naturally among

accustomed

youth

we

social

degradation or

are

interiors.

But

law

makes

difference

no

is

is

unperceived

least

even

in

whose

Lisbon

At

African

they

true,

neither

had

had

the

is

true

"

places it

Bal

Mabille,

but

none
no

saw

not

less

the

In

the

Portugal,
It is
but

cross;

Paris, cosmopolite

found

disfavor

no

any

recommendation.

beaux

assemblage, it
of

exponent

an

at

to

blacks.
the

aristocratic

admired

more

with

seemed

an

us,

complaint,

of

e., natives

color

to

highest society,persons

the

caste.

be

may

proximity

beauty by

no

African

the

in certain

where,

lost

they

Paris, while
At

gained

It

side any

intermarried

had

in

image

European

the

close

in

I saw,

them

political

or

ivory.

by

too

extraction, i.

ancestors

in

There,

skin ; God's

other

the

on

certainlymade

African, offensive

the

weather, of

warm

African.
of

heard

never

them

upon

color ; social

in

unregarded

or

down

early

it is otherwise.

Europe,

peculiarityof

certain

in

independent of the
respected equally as

rights are
that

has

nature

prevails

From

us.

look

to

our

ebony

91

COLOR.

OF

ners
public man-

colored

"

than

our

brethren."
So

President

foreignersand

with
been

feted,had

as

The
"

the

official

as

eager,

Prince,"

as

founder

worst

who
a

had

perhaps
been

entertain

him.

particularlyanxious
he

to

and

curses,

emerged

from

growing empire, was

to

the

behold

it,and
vehement.

see

ing
Hold-

jocularly called.

was

of

tic
dynas-

have

curiositywould

conditions, their desire

man

of

the

remain, with

representative of

and

to

have

would

They

natives.

deira,
in Ma-

lions

were

etiquette ready, to
were

slavery as
of

ladies

English
Black

than

throne

European

suite

consented

they

honors

earnest

more

and

Roberts

most

and

become
But

graded
demate
estithe
His

92

considered

Excellency
The

did

consul

handed.
passage
Should

and

country

our

be

would

the

from

and

"

Madeira
to

from

would

of

of health.

encouragement
few

Probably

At

Two

the

and

climate
and

consumptive

holds

"

deter

communication.

by

out

not

the

"

hills

horses

greater

patients;
moderate

at

oxen,

and

other

only

the

direct

more

in

are

Madeira,

steep, and

so

often

to
fatal,

himself

to

use

or

Then

there

plenty of

fish

the

wheels.

tires of
means

hammock

is

cheaper

is the

the substitute

being always in
of riding,except
are

safe,if

sufficiently
spirited,and

palanquin

and

flat stones, it would

still,ox-sledges

are

undertaking who

great deprivation Avhich

smooth

doubtless

shoulders

The

such

by

from

countrymen

easilyreconcile

drawn

sire
de-

many

The

our

carriages.
and

world, but

rheumatic

accommodations

joyfullyembrace

with

only

not

"

regular route

felt

way.

from
particularly

C7

be

Brazilian

by Americans,
in the

the

at

either

cargoes

of

lines

to
present, the time and money
necessary
in reaching the island via England
the

consumed

would

between

Africa, Madeira

scenery

no

his

on

countries,stop

and

and
curiosity,

to

of

other

sublimest

him

established

for coal.

visited

places, better

prices.
be

much

be

depart empty-

cheer

the African

"

dency,
presi-

unencumbered.

coast

to

his

to

expectations.

to

to

passengers

of the

motives

and

him

depot

England

carry

some

see

their

be

west

island for that purpose

lines

upon

steamers

excellent

an

steamers,

to

wherewithal

of

line

hasten

duty

did the ladies go

nor

permit

not

took

He

it

his back

turned

and

MADEIRA.

IN

WHEELS

NO

will

allow

not

would

of

want

roads
be

ered
cov-

ous,
danger-

One

of

does

sledges

the saddle
on

men's

fast ; the

sure-footed, and

sleep with

boating always at command,

always to be caught. There are

gress.
pro-

and
excur-

WHEELS

NO

sions

by

Cruz,

to

the

ox-sledge,

the

Avould

not

For
it

varied

such

with

can

Selah.

fear

not

to

be
that
obtain

be

the

means

of

horse,

the
but

be

foreborne,

is

and

And

foot,
that

grateful

marine
after

perhaps,
the

and

they

the

for

boat,

rather
what

all,

palanquin,
wheels
be

used.

for

what

not

can

longs

Santa

to

other

locomotion,

heart

human

than

to

visited.

desired

93

MADEIRA.

Machico,

Lobos,

de

Caraa

worthy

places

easily

not

water,

IN

it

enjoys.

CHAPTER

DOUBTS

OF

NICIANS

"

THE

DISCOVERY

THE

ROMANCE,

OF

X.

THE

PLUTARCH1*

ISLAND"

PERHAPS

OF

TRUE,

STORY"

liOOERT

THE

MAl.HIX

PHE-

AND

ANNE

D'ABFET.

of

face

us

Sylla's

had

Islands."

These

separated

only
of

distance

They

seldom

falls

but

such

rich

that

is

the

that

sea

oftener

in

of
each

have

the

only
scatter

the

the

only

For

our

are

of

ing
sow-

the

than

to

The

ease.

the

through

and

their

the

north

insensible
and

the

dissipated

and

gentle

plains.

while

bring

showers,

with
but

ceptibly
imper-

which
So

east

immense

lost

west,

moisture,
their

do

to

in

and

for

abundance

such

more

and

scatter

produces

continent,

south

slight

on

in

Rain

ly
moderate-

good

salubrious,
seasons,

African

which

enjoyment

and

refreshing
plenty

not

nothing

is, the

ocean

falls

it

breezes,

those

other.

pass,

that

is

and

from
to

does,

the

at

Islands.

spontaneously

have

blow

winds,
from

soil

but

fruits,

into

they

them

the

number,

the

Fortunate

soft

pleasant

which

tract

the

have

temperature

winds

are

generally

themselves

transitions

and

it

always

happy

channel,

when

inhabitants

indulge

in

and

there,

planting,

the

two

from

some

Atlantic

the

are

leagues

the

(Cadiz)

"

narrow

before

from

says,

hundred

excellent

most

called

dews

and

air

by

are

they

arrived

he

islands,

from

Gades

at

tarch
Plu-

conjecture.

on

flying

met

lately

four

coast.

rests

Sertorius,

legions,

who

mariners

Madeira

that

"

tells

of

discovery

THE

that

it

is

DOUBTFUL

generally believed, even

these
Blessed
of

Sertorius,the

excited

so

was

to

where

rumors

or

learned,like

had

where

be

would

there

he

had

us,

conceived

reach

never

him

proved disastrous,he
follow

him

of

sacking

he

peaceful islands,

should

to

no

legitimateplunder : so
to
design,and return

ah1 the charms

philosopher,to despise.

true

the

authority assures

Avars

they

of

seats

on

in these

refused

soldiers, however,

the

relation,that

of

since

; for wars,

more

and

same

settle down

strange desire
wars

this

with

barbarians, that

described

has

Homer

which

verse."

the

among

Elysian Fields,

the

are

95

ORIGIN.

His

places

to

cities,or

other

his
obliged to abandon
former
occupation of throatwas

his

cutting.

By

earlier

much

order

navigators,who, by
before

centuries

Africa, and
these

returned

An

the

by

such

with

And

either.

The

foster-mother
of

this

island

the

of

may

example
Some

England,

of

plebeian

blood.

as

round
visited

the

be

that

young

lady

fell in

His

impressed

imbibed

venial

been

herited
in-

discoverers.

reign of
of noble

love

from

and

have

of its claimed
in the

mighty

destiny of

soft desires
to

ordinary
of

of Rome

said

climate,

things,boasts

typifiesthe

time

of les convenances,
mnn

than

more

ferocity they

the
; while

story is this:
Third

six

bilities
plausi-

save

soft

scenery,

founders

wolf-sucked

from

the

Sea

nothing

the fitness of

fable

history or

its character

offences

The

the Red

indubitablyauthenticated

as

Rome.

their

Necho,

of Hercules,
pillars

romantic

origin; and, fortunatelyfor

upon

earliest

support of the theory.

island

one

They

the

Pharoah

gracefulvegetation,deserves

and

of

of

adduce

they

Noah

to

Christ, sailed from

islands ; but
in

discovery is claimed.

Phenicians,next

that the

contend

of

some,

Edward
glectful
birth, ne-

with

presumption

in

young

recipro-

96

ROMANCE.

eating

the

under

the

sentiment

punished by imprisonment

was

warrant.

But

love,

locksmiths

; and

Robert

royal
at

such

inexpressivedesignation

his

and

bewitched

the

Gracious

Majesty

Poictiers

with

houses

for

hired
violent

the

the

Funchal, where
be

may

landed.
another
and

drove

whose
the
an

education

and
and

loveliness

died

within

care

so

seventh

to

of the

three

dangers of
the

to

to

had

droop ;

oft-verified

commandment."
in five

maxim

days, and

Her

d'Arfet,
affected

by

which

prepared her,

notwithstandingthe
the

union, or

fifth will

that

moorings,

Anne

not

climate,and

ill-assorted

an

of

ashore,

undergone, for

and

was

east

coast

its

much

had

tigue
fa-

harbor, they

from

been

halls

It

been

sea.

had

with

miles

delicious

too
days ; fortunately

little for the

her

dead

had

they

and

storm

of the

vessel

perilsshe

in baronial

mild

instance

their

health

immediately began

the

after

of

far out

course

courtesy,

the

France.

twenty

indenture

an

and

Machin

of Madeira.

some

strained

tore

of

half

shore

it, untenanted,

mind

exposure

is

hours

tempest

Most

previously

crew

days

them,

Machico,

there

few

his

father's castle

their

twelve

the

upon

her

coast

from

after

called,from

ancestors

Robert

and

the

them

and

called

d'Arfet,our

While

from

vessel
for

drove

hunger,

place now

Anne

latitude,threw

and

to

means

whose

Frenchmen,

purpose,

ocean,

uncertain

at

of

with

tempest

upon

new

lives

embarking,

awhile,

experimenting at Cressy
puttingout not
fire-engines,

carrying off

in

Anne

Conqueror.

was

his

the

but

succeeded
and

with

bewitching heroine,

with

over

found

durance, and

in communication

put himself

came

from

for

"

after

"

his escape

effected

those

Machin

days, laughed
was

in

even

care

"

to

soon

add

to

"that

fruits,
realize

another

they

still less for

husband

the survivors

or

lover

who
the
lowed
fol-

placed them

XL

CHAPTER

DEPARTURE

MADEIRA

FROM

in

EARLY

the

Madeira

from

enough
The

from

route

en

captain

speak

word

each

English

by

nor

signs

touched

fever

yellow
this

uncertain
as

he

of

his

and

"

vessel.

sailing

with
winds.

could

not

language,
We

together.

stood
underthan

eloquence

terser

"

Galgo

regularly

more

well

excellently

other

in

to

I.Is-

resolution

summoned

brought

preferred

"

schooner

which

Portuguese

of

along

got

we

OK

VIEW

ARRIVAL

more

often

and

was

once

Brazils,

the

freight,

the

I had

sea

Madeira,

at

its other
Our

the

tempt

steamer

took

Lisbon.

for

to

FIRST

"

MONOPOLIES"

THERE"

spring

TAGUS

THE

OF

INTERROGATORY

FIRST

B0!""

ENTRANCE

"

speech.
On
the
of

the

ninth

main-land,
the

rise

Tagus,

and

in

but

too

the

picturesque

us

dangers

fearfully for

reach.

Tales,
of

voyage

frequent

fevered

our

returned

with

standing

opposed

the

in

yet
this

and

had

we

distanced
to

each

in

from
and

their

wonted

bar.

other,

Two
contain

did

not

the

trance
en-

the
of

murmurs

ed
impress-

crests

had

we

heard

fatalities
blood

The

glittering
after

time

some

mouth

appreciate

to

passage.

their

witness

to

time

the

bar.

the

pass

descried

we

reached

morning

next

of

that

to

island

the

evening

late

harbor,

breakers

restless

leaving

the

sufficiently early
into

the

from

day

escaped

their

protracted

our

had

rage,

circulation

revolving
and

what
some-

only
lights,
indicate

THE

the

And

destruction.
missed

so

and

perishes,crew
The

flows

Tagus

of Lisbon

frown

the

French

these

been

more

its capture
twelfth

more

the

from

the

tip and

to

sun

little progress.

impatience

from

Castles

and

in the

towers,

the

had

relieved

varying
alternate

river

we

of

course

views.

imminent
its

no

AVC
pression
ex-

of

our

Brazil,returning

or

on

deira,
in Macareless

their

feet,

lovelyand ever-changingprospect.
led
convents, fortified bluffs,dismant-

quiet country

seats

sparkling landscapes,hung over

its career
vessel ; illustrating
our

the

Soon

encountered

half-Moorish
and

with

deck

hybernated

all,recumbent

with
strongholds,interspersed
and

I heard

valetudinarians,with

other
"

of,
there-

against us,

crowded

from

operatictroupe
who
adventurers, Lisbonians
myself

down

going

But

the

An

like

the

strong

but

and

in the

and

make

English

Moors

the

dead

could

absorbed

city

golden-sanded Tagus.

tide

were

marine

no

the

and

voyagers

the
itself,

down

wind

vessel.

Lisbon

present day.

the

to

"With

of

of

unopposed by

truth, while

Crusaders

risingof

beat

we

In

admiral

do

"

by

the

since,the

years

but

capable of successful defense,none

from
frequently or shamefullytaken

century down

From

threaten

"

captured,with

fleet.

Portuguese
is

entrance

with

castles,bristling

passed the bar, almost

fleet

Europe

has

twenty

and
fortifications,

whole
in

the

upon

Custom-house

profuselystudded

villages. Two

and

Some

strike.

not

easily

so

sel
gallantves-

many

from, the

miles

the bar ; its banks

to

guns,

storms

entrance,

cargo.

seven

quintas,vineyards
with

of either is inevitable

is the

narrow

during

lost,that

or

; outside

pathway

safe

only

99

TAGUS.

after

the Tower

of

Belem,

Its unaccustomed

structure.

position
"

the

originalpurpose

"

within

entrance

our

uninformed
its varied

with
the

half-Gothic
architecture

specting
curiosityrehistoryand ua-

100

VASUO

certain

GAMA.

niind.

founder, puzzled the

battery in front,and

UE

by
Highlands

The

water.

of

The

view.

nearer

of

Mafra,
bar

Convent

Avhere

had

we
now

"

also

It

passed.

told

In

the

us

and

of Good

Cape

once

"

lucrative

arts
an

so

"

we

"

ligent
intelof the

commemoration
Vasco

Hope by

de Gama.

the church
hut, occupying the site where
stands, he passed the livelongnight previous

now

spot the

vigils,fastingand
morning he boarded

in

departure

next

his

by
he

sanguine
"

enterprise.
erected

The

his vows,

the safe

and

in

their

companions
expedition,either

taking
years

Indies

to

an

"

New

had

World.

The

and

at

use

Columbus

Virgin,who
It is

be

had

stance
circum-

mentioned, that

the

the

it

time

from

but

accident

Brazils,eight

Columbus

of the

unknown
that

seems

revelation

of the

by

or

purpose

Thus

for the

come

Manuel,

Dom

cape.

discovery by

event

the

hardy navigators

the

to

to

Vasco, returning home

from

the

Portuguese explorers.
of time

of

time,

route, discovered

western

subsequent

West

the

this relation

of the

some

to

couraged
en-

his hazardous

upon

of the

accorded

circumnavigationof
worthy

forth

in honor

church

revelations

are

his
this

his vessel ; and

of the

monarch

to

From

prayer.

which

"

confidentlyset

this

heard

dreams

indigent,are

endowed

in

"

on

equally useful

an

expense,

erected

Portuguese
discovery of

Jeronylmo

now

even

distinct

boys, parentless and

was

rounded
sur-

remoter

descried

more

of San

the government's

taught, at

nearly

the
indistinctly,

and
wealthy religiousinstitution,

orphanage,

is

water

by

Castle, crowning the

more

of the

the passage

before

Pena

Cintra,and,

fortifications
palatial

high

at

It is defended

to

compass

the
had

to

the

the fullness
Old
made

of the

evitable,
it in-

anticipatedhis cotempo-

raries.
On

our

left,high placed

on

an

elevated

ridge,we

OP

VIEW

admired

the

residence
sails of
the

magnificentpalace of Ajuda, a rightroyal

the broad
with
the varied
river,crowded
nations

divers

stood

waters,

all this

heavens

the

northern

canopy

of

transparent than

more

through poetry as through a safetywill not

nature
permit of our
making
more
kind, enables us to repeat them :

if

memory,

brought Byron
''

and

azure

escape

and

softer

; and

sunbeams

spectaclethe

its

imaginationhad preconceived.

verses,
and

sky

Emotions
valve

reflectingthe

towers

rising from

us,

with
city itself,

beauteous

gorgeous

"

before

while

the

domes, spiresand
above

101

LISBON.

beauties

What

to

rescue

my

Lisboa

doth

first unfold I
.

Her
"Which

whereon

now

the

to

Lusians

did

of

gold

did

keels

Albion

her

tide

sands

thousand

strength,since

Of mighty

noble

with

poets vainly pave

But

And

that

image floatingon

ride

allied,

was

aid afford.

*******

Oli, Christ
"What

description not

no

"

beauties

all the

A
"

fragrance

can

absorb

of

such

blush

on

o'er the

the most
a

its infinite

see

for this delicious

done

goodly prospects

What

mind

goodly sight to

hath

Heaven
fruits of

"What

But

I it is

expand.

poetical
"

; for

scene

tree

every
hills

land

render

can

neither

eye

variety.

duty, however, I owed

myself the duty of
made
me
quite willingto quit vessel,scenery
"

when,

romance,

at

nor

o'clock,r.M.,

at

we

last

ing
dinand
cast

anchor.
The
before
soap ?"

first
he

interrogatoryat

is allowed
This

selon
strictly

to

Lisbon

to

land, is," How

is

true.
literally

les

regies,your

Your

stranger,
are

you

off for

passport may

sanitarycondition

even

be

admir-

102

VEXATIOfS

able, and

dispositiontoward

your

kind
than

the

prove

; and

that

pebble

of soap,

luggage

it to others.

"

the

to

article ; and
somewhere

us

with

concealed

in

kindly offered

perfumed, it
visitatorial
And

for

the

escaped

to

run

Tobacco

government

"

of which

annual

an

what

with

is done

the

government,

the

raw

friend

somewhat

though

of the

scent

from

of

parties.

ished
cher-

$1,500,000
The

the

article,the

to

"

ors
contract-

annually paid for

cost

the

clusive
ex-

of

an

smuggling (much

inevitable

year

our

monopoly here, yielding

the

sum

the

gauntlet for

the

foreign legations)

decreases

year

of

cigars,would
but be emancipated from
this company,
through

and

and

carefully

of

those

uneducated

legally through

exercises
ramifications,

when

preserve,

; while

duties on
by a system of moderate
material,and judiciousfosteringof domestic

manufactories

which

whatever

revenue

both

the

police,and
the trade

"

the

Wherefore,
in

second

privilegeof vending
extensive

of

boarded

; and

the

is also

to
monopoly injurious

find

sale

nually
an-

had

to

purpose

in Portugal

large sum

exclusive

and

kind

police.

weed.
the

paying

cared

pockets,

my

guese,
Portu-

Avas

monopoly

for the

my

had

we

and

me

all

however,

was

Castle.

Belem

the

that

agent of the company

an

divest

nied
themselves, maliciouslyde-

that soap

near

I had

soap

to

passenger,

government

of

cautioned

questionably
un-

bigger
Anak,

no

soap,
son

of contractors

that

of

the dread
was

article

me

company

government

hastilyconcluded
Some

to advise

enough

the

cake

overcame

using the

not

yet

"When

ruin.

your

MONOPOLIES.

over

merely gain in

not

the

enue,
rev-

perniciouscontrol

its many

its action.

and
For

so

various
ive
extens-

potent is the machinery of this monopoly, that

it chooses

to

put forth all its

it can
intimidation,

secure

means

of

majority in

corruption
the

Cortes,

103

CIGARS.

of the

and, thence, command

Minister

able
a

of Finance

would
elsewhere

bring

As

good.

severity than
but

pardon,

the

"

prison-doors,and

the

the

latter

bid

the

alone

can

captive

go

is liable to
irresponsiblepower
Sailors,coming incautiouslyon shore

pockets,have
And

incarcerated.
the

so

but

from

been

few

us

days
a

"

England,

can

throw

open

free.

And
abuse.

constant

with

before

vital

plugs

arrival

our

the

by

passenger

"

ian
Brazil-

respectable personage,

durance

subjected to

of

frequentlyunceremoniously

captain informed

steamer

had

been

relinquishedall

this

in their

Violations

government

it has

That

monopoly.

exists,it is

now

punishablewith greater

former

the

over

the

to

power

crimes

it

visitors.

to

company's regulationsare

the

devise

to

his

vexation

of incessant

source

present

ition
colleaguesfear its abolnot
deficiencyin the revenue,

made

be

to

on

strives

and

laments,

for this evil ; but

remedy

The

ministry.

vile for

abortive

an

smuggle a few choice Havanas.

be forearmed.
to
Forewarned, I determined

tempt
at-

to

in my

stowed

in Madeira

me
on

portmanteau

his way

"Powhatan,"
was

destined

lost

friend

without

of but

boldest

one

stowing

the
the

enough

ask

to

cigar

took

talked

and

"

Castle

to

our

with

rest
"

my

detective."
him

and

to

soap

service
to

in

I knew

smoke.

all the

moorings.

The

island

which,

He

in

alas!

as

the
he

and

carefully

pockets, approached

my

took

language

from
had

well

lighteda

and

took

calumet

could

the safest is the

the

way

officer

an

save,

cases,

lighted another,

smoked

Adams,

cigar-case,and

filled my

sented
pre-

him, his companions

I desired
In many

box

H.

our

the

guile,and
These

J.

at

In

return.

way.

course.

stopped

of

expedition from

to

never

beyond reproach.
think

he

an

upon

dozen

Lieutenant

by

Japan

to

few

I had

and
the
been

lighted,
Belem

passed

104

MY

between

and

giving

the

in

there

Lisbon)

at

the

was

felt

my

of

smell

left

(all

ashore

me

and

commingled,

salutations,

take

to

was

stream

whether

had

receiving

that

boat

smoke

our

us,

DINNER.

the

deck

vessels

for

the

anchoring
sacred,

was

person

smoke

when,

on

garments

my

no.

or

And

vessel,

passports

our

if

as

had

we

trifling

Some

awhile

to

the

finally
conditional

de

and
have

done

than

made

dine

where

ordered

sliced.

tomatoes

on

the

Isle

made

of

It

was

Wight.
5*

for

explanations
ficed
suf-

officer

land,

to

the

police,
to

that

dinner
the

of

to

I
and

as

"

had
the

Hotel

mutton-chops

dinner

would

sooner

way

my

that

assented

No

on

guaranty,

condition

my
a

tiny
scru-

threatened

to

shore.

country.

scrupulous

any

Lisbon

harmlessness,

my

cheerfully

on

incontinently

Braganza,
raw

rigid

The

morning

almost

to

mine

captain's

next

hostile

in

in

as

permitted

the

This

to

me

from

the

was

by

to

had

we

and

ashore.

from
I

decision.

enabled

subjected

obtain

myself

have

landed

Portugal,

guarantied

confirmed

its

would

have

who

to

report

abide

of

going

release:

promise,

part

irregularity
my

Although

land.

direct

sitions,
perqui-

tobacco

to

arrived

prevent

and

soap

free

were

verbal

captain,

should

not

integral

an

the

escaping

still

was

from

come

of

after

yet

should

106

BUILDINGS

fortunate
found
the
and

needs

changes
and

streets

for the

the world

LISBON.

have

must

people clean.

Portuguese take
as

IN

good

very

lowest, they

taken

The

higher classes

care

of their

stands

on

the

Tagus.

the

Alemeria,
the

Many

of

same

full of

cathedral.

Its

streets

the

to

well

are

is

George

from

eye

paved,

and

very

massive

Though

the

of St.

the

precipitous street, is occupied

palaces of the Portuguese nobility,

occasional

an

the

hills,upon

seven

top of the highest of which the Castle

situated,the most
prominent object

with

of

persons,

pretty much

are

over.

Lisbon, like Rome,

with

place.

pendant garden.
churches, Lisbon

Rome's

in

architects

eminent

no

would

aqueduct, however,

credit to Roman

of

boasts

have

best

done

days.

Its

the valleyto the north-east

of
principalarches cross
the city,and
discharge the cool, sparkling,delicious
element

into

whence

the whole

cityis supplied. The

leaguesdistant,and
works
Church

of San
but

mosaic
a

in

million
and

livingas
The
one
a

Black

or

of attentive

Roque,

of money.

more

the

empty

Horse
on

Square is one
the

Tagus,

flightof steps ;

architecture.
of stone

of

gateway

marble, will,when
and

on

of the
to

the

marble

equestrian^statue

of

be

complete

at

cost

dead

can

finest in
you

to

the
be.

ever

Europe

descend

by

is th"

of brilliant

specimen
and

Joseph,

of

glish
the En-

are

attractive

the

terior,
ex-

of the best

some

formed

Custom-house

Dom

its

opposite side

which,

completed,
The

which,

is the

in

there

of the

public

There

finished

Then

mansions

is seven

common

its walls
and

"Waters,

source

regard.

and

coarse

of

edifices and

other

Portuguese cemeteries, as

entrance, the

an

are

containing within
the world, fashioned

side abuts
massive

there

unworthy

not

Mother

rocky edifice,called

other

of gorgeous
ings
build-

square, while
indiflerent
no

107

BEGGAK*.

piece of art, embellishes

of Dom
Praza
Pedro, a
Gardens,

better

and

promenade,

for

there

is the

Public

the

Sunday evenings, where

performs.
saw
no
beggars in the streets, and should
like travelers generally,
to some
hasty and

I
come,

therefrom

conclusion

informed

friend,who

is

This

alms.

of

boon

legion here
I

fortunate

well

as

know

of the

like

The

native
alter-

is considered

; and

than

adapted

and

break

ao

name

cities generally.

melancholy

terminating

the

the

brious
luguthe

upon

this

accompanied by the
whine
of a professional
and loathsome
appearance
per
pauis irresistible.
Self-defence,more
powerful than
lief
recharity,compels you to give. For it is your own
ear

seek.

you

the
has

dying

prison

better

Portuguese to mendicancy.
sounds

for

if the

in the Continental

as

ing
solicit-

population,whose

language

no

I doubt
a

the pauper

by

caught

arrangement

and

vised
unad-

prohibited

were

gates ; but

starvation

between

much

all who

have

explanation of

that Government

me

the

sojournerswithin

for the

but

i. e., incarcerated

beggary,

is

nice

lounge

Then

center.

Queen's baud

the

the

income

The

audacity of

been

carried

absurdum.
mitted

groan

The

Sir

out,

the

as

; and

10

pay
with

to

might

have

Every

able-bodied

service

years
are

of age ; and

obligedto

things included.

of the amount

had

army,

from

all who

become

Many

can

in

to
was

diem, is
the Treasury

little

prised
sur-

not

Portugal
to

for

pay

cents

themselves

for

also !

eighteen

soldiers at ten
maim

say, ad

suppressed beggary,

man

young

principle

his half per

me,

far beyond

dint of uninter-

by

in for its tithe there

come

in "the

or

before

this fact

that Government
it

dollar

cent,

per

His

logicianswould

laborer, who

poor

has gone

Peel.

Robert

exertion,gainshis

obliged to

here

tax

is liable

twenty-four
substitute,

per
to

day,

escape

all
en-

108

CARRIAGES.

listment; and
with

of

condition

And

not

contented

with

better.

It is not,

either

stand

not

set

and

up,

slow

are

ancient

to

than

more

well

usages

perhaps

driver's

horses.

whips

not

can

driver

the off one,

probably

intended
the

Sometimes

are

mules

their

by

necks;

four
and

streets, it makes

founder

mounted
say

which

which

with

This

in many

have

straddles

the

back

ence
adher-

of

which,

are

high

so

without

ladders,

wheels

two

and

nigh horse, and

is covered

saddle, with

with

thing
some-

projection
pummel, like a miniature steeple.
used.
The
Patriarch's"
carriage
these

I did not

of his

otherwise

Holy Church, they

animals,

with

bells

round

learn

"

perhaps in
rode

who
religion,

imitation

into Jerusalem

; and

whatever
heretics
certainly,
against the high dignitariesof the
can

not

refuse

them

the

praiseof

humility.
if

not

in

clatteringand ringing through the

arch
Patrithe
Why
quite a sensation.

in that way

Mules,

in

themselves, has

get into them

They

the

things;

fashion

vehicles

very

for

their fathers

manners.

noticed

struck

"

of

prefersmules
the

that

discovery.

imitation,unless

French

progressive."

nor

"

at

whose

into the air from

is drawn

"

place

assistance.

The

much

for the

merit

no

through generations. They

the air that you

your

the

as

with

others
the

or

carriages for hire,the

in

down

come

ape

doubtless

dispositionwith

landmarks

the

by

higher classes,who

may

is

unquestionablyhas

fast"

"

lot than
little

the

I claim

is not

people

have

their

This

well, and

as

Lisbon

of

here

and

unhappy;

seem

indeed, the

is received.

others

t\vo

What

country.

classes

lower

happiness,but

constitutes

or

the

ice,
compulsory militaryserv-

the

yet they do

more

as

Ay

enviable.

most

The

and

monopolies, taxes,
the

are

desert, and

more

so

handsome,

are

more

serviceable

OF

WANT

than

horses;

how

much

beds

eat

on

their backs

mule

moving

upon

them

we

hear

; and

we

do, heed
The

them

so

all due

blacker

hair

the

ball

native

girl.

mostly

relieved

were,

however,
find
of

It

more

well if

were

nations,and

not

was

and

and

own

American

There

darkness.

present

gentlemen

their

all

ugliness. They

dispelledthe

agreeable manners
they intermarried

tended
at-

the

among

one

monotonous

transmitted

reallybeautiful

one

ladies

handsomer

and

eyes

Palmella's, where

men
fine-looking

many

no

of

"

speak generally,
Black

assembled

from

scene

out, like stars, and

or

physical beauty.

young

stood

you

if

or

ladies the better

course,

their

there

English
the

Of

were

Portuguese
Two

Portuguese

Duchess

the

at

Lisbon

of

ton

sufferings
;

no

ertions
ex-

Where

where.

exceptionalallowance.
is

get for

exhausting

every

imagine

morally.

making

this is

of them

animals

poor

But

of the

physicallyand

the

make

indeed

"

them,

not.

said

less

tablishment
es-

and

ride upon

They

all their

complaints we

no

met

family,women

for
stripes,

starvation.

often

domestic

whole

astonishing-

endure.

whole

them, sleepupon
endurance

is

furniture,kitchen-utensils,

"

load.

ambulatory residences
all their

and

the

surmounting

children

It

Portugal.

citywith

the

into

109

JJEAUTY.

will carry

they

one

"

least in

at

coming

them

FEMALE

with

guese,
Portu-

conversation.
of other

women

looks

good

deed,
and, in-

the

than

and

to

other

see

than

generations.
I attended
hear

saw

"

the

for the
the

Gloria, who

was

thought

ascended

her

capital,which

limit

more

was

indifferent.
Maria

she

Her
soon

with

da

qualifiedto reign till she

well

the throne.

unpopular

one,

to

(sincedead), Donna

there

had

French

company,

queen

night, rather

one

opera

father's

popularitywas

exhausted.
her

countrymen

She

had
than

one

want

110

of

DONNA

capacity

administrative

Call

Portuguese

forgive

may

he

what
will.

had

her

respected

her

royal
and

all

and

was

of

so

been

exercises.
and

no

to

that,

for

the

on

both

otherwise

deportment

of

the

royal

his

in
"

often

were

seen

distinguished
and

gentlemanly

kind

in
than

rels,
quar-

in

offices

faction,
influential

wife,

he

became

universal.
that

parents

educated

political

and

almost

assent

with

whatever

attached

decease

an

admirably

They

of

of

ners
man-

popular

his

interpose

with

so

gracious

in

individual
hosts

with

well

have

ready

not

was

him

meddled

render

to

His
made

never

him

King-Regent
speaks

he

brusqueness

it

Fernando.

deserving

around

But

same

Faithful

calculated

not

disposition
as

never

the

Most

begat

lieges.

Dom

ever

any

had

friends

her

by

consort,

classes

favor

deportment

agreeable

but

he

of

rudeness

Her

which

hauteur,

great

"

lie

others

Now,

he

manners

and

from

receive

concede.

they

bad

and

"

to

expect

of

criado"

"mal

manners.

coward,

him

accuse

by

expresses

consideration

and

but

robber,

good

of

want

"

cheat,

you;

They

Majesty

MAKIA.

mind,

their

It

sons

and

manners

public
by
address.

unattended,
their

tending
unpre-

XIII.

CHAPTER

CINTRA

PALACE

"

QUINTA

"

VEDBAS

BUT

in

its

"

still

as

of

is

and

The

gigantic
*

"

most

trees,

know

sublime,

calculated

This

immense

herbage
stones,

volcanoes

piled

scattered

hazels,
gardens."

of

it rises

into

strangely,

so

to

the

walnuts,

satisfy

forms

wood

Portuguese
on

beholder

mountain

fail

must

abundance
the

parts

the

the

ascent,

half

tall

canes,

the

is

in

that

all

the

hid

and

describe

to

their

houses

the

of the

of

green

delight.
scanty
immense

deluges
But

origin.
in

this

English

of

and
the

retreat
are

elms.

cork-trees,
rich

scenery

such

feature

striking

than

with

of

the

you

and

machinery
for

to

beheld

never

covered

part

the

among

the

green,

beautiful

admiration

inquiry

most

deepest

hills, formed

conical

the

to

opens

more

; yet
with

The

summers.

"

is, perhaps,

beautiful

than

or

rock

in

and

fill

to

it

Cintra:

grotesque

more

more

from

of

But

forests, waterfalls,

Southey,

Mr.

says

the

Lisbon

the

eye.

of

foliage,

you.

than

over

scene

hills, untamed

how,"

not

upon

desolate

fairy

gorgeous
savage

beauties

strange

what

It

Surprise

bursts

profane

the

was

new

it.

high

borrow

describe

and

by

me

beauty.

must

somber

ence
pres-

earth,*

excessive

that, rising

and

turned,

to

on

scene

are

early

Known

one

the

from

There

your

spots

to

Cintra

protects
once

eye

and

as

wall

stony

xipon

its

TORRES

"

OPORTO.

Lisbon.

Cintra.

for

VIEW

CASTRO"

in

loveliest

bleak,

more

DK

insist

the

admiration

Nothing

INEZ

commendation

overpowers

rock

which

of

PANORAMIC

long

tarry

enchantment,

epithets

road,

OK

unprepared

resembles

CASTRO"

others,

one

wholly

waste

not

than

reputation

STORY

vicinity

more

DE

JOHN

"

does

one

places

OF

COIMBKA

"

the

seen

oaks,
lemon

112

CINTKA.

domes,

paths,and
In what
to

form

the

they spring ; and

towers, surveyed
what

toil and

I looked

as

the vast

hand

have

been

armies.

spiritof
Yet

their fastnesses.

they had been

expulsion,holy

what
their

the

unable
men

and, braving perilsof

straits,

rocky tomb,
Sidi, and

their

near

there, like

Cintra

is

beauties.

it

Jews

of

rich

in

visited

of

Moors

the

bloody

field of

and

insulted

faith.

His

the

cross

land, repairto

the

famous

old, sit down

associations

and

natural

as

tions,
recollec-

palace my
thoughts where
"

the

"

of

Africa,who

Boy-

The

the

king ne'er

The

fate of Sebastian

dead

body

was

Christian

returned

not

avenged upon
own
expulsion

Alcazarquibirtheir

ground with the gallantnobles who

after

gathered together the chivalry and

Portugal,to aid him in his gasconading expedition

against the

and

would

somber

maybe, coloringmy

regret

glories.

historic

the

fore
be-

Sebastian

King
boast

as

to

fortress,of

their former

remembering

weep,

the

back

for,long

and

ancient

would

subdued

ceased

them

sea

them

ate

ague

was

save

complished,
ac-

castle,could

sallydriven

never

among

been

battlements

Moors

to

felt with

holdingAvitli

the

bold

they

its watch-

had

the

to
or

of

men,

the

hosts, and

the

But

from

of which

out

ascent

mounted
sur-

Lusitanian

the

out

armed

approaches

detached

once

below, and

till " famine

overwhelmed

have

distance

how

the

overcome,

Rocks

up."

from

unopposed

I marveled

art

part of the rock

seem

fatiguemy

determined

and

nature

stronghold of
principal

Its walls

Moors.

have

loftyand precipitouspeak

the

I ascended

by

and

place under the sun

so
gloriousa scene

other

united

Moorish

ruins,labyrinthine
gushing rivulets,quintas,and palaces.

cataracts, towers,

is

found

one

at

to

meet

of

the

the

banner

sought
his
many

to

went
to

the

uphold it"

people'scurse.*
historical

fu-ld of Alcazar,

nor

puzzles.
was

he

114

the

undulating like
the

to

the

and

the

; the

enlivening the river, and

another

On

shores.

his

Kinseyin

miles

of

Portugal.'

of

Lisbon, and
view

of

the

this

spot

bad

elevated

having
with

character

that

erection

the

to

was

the

and

six colossal
decorate

in the

six organs

chief

"

"

from

north

the

leads

to

modation

the
of

of

marble,
of the

altars

church
the

the

plan

to

west

of

is

himself

to
men
wo-

display of

sort

; at

vie

of

of

each

an

royal family,the

work

ing
overlookThe

which

single block,
and

adorn

the

the

large

lower

part

of travelers.
and

pan-

their

of

The
tones

of

their

exterior

edifice

forms

quadrangle,
sixtyfeet, and

and

seventy feet.

Ionic

side is a

tured
manufac-

Puo-Pinheiro.

one

hundred
and

did
splen-

with

wood

admiration

this

were

the

mountain

church,

richness

seven

six hundred

south

the

priestswere

extremely handsome,

with

The

east

front

west
to

"

from

measuring
of

red

chapel are

perfectlycorrespond

at

patriarchate,to

of the

quarry

side walls, justlychallengethe

the

vain

resemble

perfectlyblack, which

marble,

the

artists; and

of the

service

celebrated
in

the three

of

nels

columns

ress
fort-

priesthood,and

Italian

Lyons. The marbles which

the production
inlaid,are principally
of the

employed his troops in the

to eclipseby its splendor and
Its construction
Spanish Escurial.

at

and

built

foreignarchitect;its embellishments

in silk for the

Cintra,

considered

was

discoverable

with

into

and

Rome,

at

completed by Dutch, French,

vestments

bleak

it

about

by

surrendered

artful

and

is

Moors, who

who

"

of Lisbon

gloriesof

confided

V.

contented

edifice that

an

magnificencethe
was

Joao

church

of St. Peter's

of

of the

vestigesare

no

not

"

It

sea.

intriguing and

an
corrupt nobility,

of

the

once

Mafra

is surrounded

time

here, of which, however,

On

at

'Escurial

place of great strength in

present day.

contains

the

within

eye

it: "The

speaks of

imposing magnitude,

its

the

to

of

north

solitarycountry,

gives

prodigious. It

merce
com-

houses

church

and

:i

twenty

is

ure,
struct-

of

white

thus

Illustrated"

structure

palace,a convent,
is proudly termed

with

Tagus

canvas

the

Mafra

side

"Portugal

of this noble

extent

the

to

entrance

Convent

Jeronylmo

San

somewhat

turning

rotatory lights; Belem

and

castles

opposed

itself;and

sea

behold

left,you

AFKA.

ments.
orna-

In

the center

hexastyle portico,which
pavilion,one for the accom
other for the patriarchand

BKAUTIFLJ.

solitaryarchitecture

its

half

palace,half convent
agglomeration of stone,

"

large,formless, limitless
flattened

"whose
could

its

reviewed

be

it is

roof,
at

it

and

tas,

while

design and

the

decorate

and

mountains

azure

mind,

the

such
on

palaces,and

and

; statues

and

almond-tree

the

quit,and

to

and

vine

hoar," the

in

the

road

Lisbon.

to

; these

transparent sky

fig,the

the memory

cution;
exe-

guese
Portu-

these

ami

con-

bold

historic ruins ; the

the

proach
ap-

quiet,the quin-

land
headtrees
cork-

"

olive

acacia,the

form, indeed, a

"

distance

defective

heaving ocean
hills,cliff,
crag

wooded

crowning

upon

nearer

sparklinglakes,river, and
A'ents

"

troops

pleasure-grounds of

line and

noblesse

from

wind-mills,seldom

countless

gardens, parks,and

These

Seen

tasteless in

seems

thousand

said, ten

once.

immensity impresses

115

VIEWS.

the eye

scene

lucts
re-

relinquishes.

never

villageof Cintra contains from eight hundred

thousand
inhabitants,and is, during the summer

The
a

residence

the

months,

of the

Many

The

there.

seats
mitered

of the

of

Crown
the

At

canons.

have

latter

permanent

England

of the

rear

altar

high

are

that John
hither.

Among

number
and
two

them

the

marble,

form

some

of

The

large tables

two

V. used

of Carrara

may

cells.

ornaments

idea of the

the
sixty-six;

over

with

over

the

summit

rear,

are

very

imported

The

of

flags,forming

is

with

monastery

and

supposed
In

marble

of the

one

hundred

very

the

eightycontain

to

dado

of

the

pile

executed.

We

building by

the

to

five thousand

some
is

eight hundred

and

America

and

vaulted

platform whereby we
The
gardens, which

formerly were

Asia, Africa

well

amount

being

this vast
a

so

of the whole

windows

edifice.

extensive, and
from

are

magnitude
and

entire

country-

highly polished
before they were
sent
looking-glasses
of the edifice are
statues
fifty-eight

it contains, which

doors

of the

of black

of which

some

apartments

hundred.

as

owns

buildingis

libraryis three
one
broad, and
palmos long by forty-three
between
volumes.
fortyand fiftythousand
hundred

eight

ters.
foreign minis-

and

court

to

well

by

walk

may
are

stored

ered
cov-

in

with

the founders."

the
otics
ex-

116

PACKENIIAM.

KICHAKD

SIB

finest; occupied, while

Richard

and

near

the

one

that

the

way,

Lisbon

at

limited

transition

and

and
and

comfort

retire.

of

expressing

"

it would

Then
*

"which

those

my

countrymen

had

indeed

close

Castile,though

Lisbon

devised

in

it
"

that

the

"

by day,

and

it is not

presumption

as

interior

the
one

Gothic

the

the

church,"

says

Portugal

to

an

all the

to
the

most

at the

English
the

daughter of "old

an

field

of

specimens

from

endowed

over

by night.

finest

that

warranted

Lancaster," and
of

inn

architecture

improbable

better

troops

largestrewards,
of the

tard,"
Bas-

bloody

of

was

harassing journey

of the

and

It
the

monastery superior

Queen Phillippa was

(jaunt, time-honored
the

road

throne
the

even

his

the

his, on
the

Batalha,

Church.

by

to

Coimbra, is

century, by "John

is worth

building is

extant

England,
a

there

wish

visit

and

attached

the

secured

to build

The

Gothic

flourished

been

to

victorywon

Europe, invited,with

competition.

Norman

it

the

determined

of

monasteries

dence
resi-

intimated,in

Lisbon

outnumbering

victory which

perilsof

King John,

with

decisive

far

sight of

"

as

visit if you

inducement

only

fourteenth

the

of

from

In

of the

commemorate

dynasty

eager

Abbey

to

his

the

half-way between

about

"

Batalha,* worth

Dominican

"

sicken

soon

already.
is

of Aljubarrota

the

thought

is situated

erected, at the

finements
re-

rapid increase,
I

great, and

this beautiful

its

Bladensburg

there

The

that,in

belief

the

to

it

to

often

too

once

commended

even

so

spoke gratefully

extend

soon

reply,that

"

and

Washington,

toms
cus-

state, its accommodations

Richard, however,

Sir

and

manners

accustomed
persons
of European life

rude, that

ington
Wash-

Society at

power.

is,generally,so nomadic, its

in such

the

to

European diplomats,
be preferred,
though

should

third-rate

attached

value

small

It

consideration.

every

court, among

our

is but

Portugal

him

secured

illustrates,
by the

embassy

once

at

deportment

Sir

Portugal, by

glish
representativeof the EnWashington, Avhere his character

Packenham,

Government

in

was

with

time
artist

stance
circumof

John

great taste.

intelligenttraveller

"

TOBKES

finest

had

upon

Lisbon.

The

an

So great
"

the

of the

and

meet

at

throw
over-

of these

traordinary
ex-

the

twenty-nine

some

distance

of

engineer

had

this mountain

with

Ve-

the sea, and

average

art

Torres
invaders

end

extending

strength of

to

to

fortifications rested

commander,

ride

troops
One

him, laughed

his

of

of the

one

French

field.

natural

British

the

open

the Tagus"
upon
in length,and at

five from

lines

held

prepared

in the

them

miles

Portugal,and
The

the Duke"

"

dras,where
bay till he

the

Peninsula.

the

on

other

in

finest cathedral

the

see

117

VEDKA.S.

thirtyaided

line, and

seventy thousand

the

troops

der
un-

Massena's

at

talions.
out-numbering batsecurityfelt at Lisbon,that

the

was

Lines"

became

ordinary party

an

of

pleasure. If you seek to conciliate the good-will of

and speak of them
the Portuguese, visit these lines,
as
defended
by their valor. There is a longer excursion
for its university whose
students
to Coimbra, famous
and
the first to rise against the French
were
among
"

"

"

there

is

is grave

chaste

and

sublime, is

and

from

but

of its moldings and

Gothic

to be

observed

ornaments

I have

to the

and

and

from

hundred

north

As

by

this

solitude

umbrageous

imposing

and

the

every

of the
of

friars

"

thing

that

western

sixteen

feet,
five

measures

constitutes

principal entrance

the

namental
or-

certainly stands

frontispiecein Europe."
and

ancient

place, the
traditional
fit emblem

pleasing melancholy.

structure,

association

crowded

buttresses,with

canopy

venerable
of

Gothic

it,covering

Bpiers,windows,

thoughts

other

any

I viewed

fallingupon

and

elegant, the

the

or

In

it

are

result of

the

and

south, including the monastery,

forty-onefeet.

and

unrivaled

to

is four hundred

forms

the whole

from

extent

bellishments,
em-

of any

those

regularityevidently the

extremity

eastern

meretricious

any

Throughout

seen.

well-conceived, original design. The

entrance

which
general effect,

also different from

are

correctness

from

derived

not

the

the intrinsic merit of the design. The

building that

other

and
plainness,

noble

mellowed

sunset

of

pinnacles";

light.

The

broken
un-

and

the

far-projectedshadows,
oaks, together with
of the past
"

filled my

was

the
mind

sparse
with

118

IXliZ

famous, in the olden

It

romance.

dramatist, and
The

Infante

lent

been

has

noble

the

the

of

theme

Pedro

Don

had
de

Inez

Pedro

the

Cruel.

The

excited

in her

have

maintained

and

readers

have

to

sought

since, the

part,

wife, the
perhaps

limits

of

interest

Mary

"

; for

attachment

the

The
Pedro's
in the

wife

his

love, would

of
disparity

such

fervor

to

presumption

of Pedro's

be with

the

on

health

fruition.
decease

Inez

marry

But

the

on

passion

less

no

death

standing
notwith-

of the

one

Infanta's

could

be

no

Papal dispensation,and
Fear

of

parental

marriage, and
seclusion

even

children

became

Avedded
induced

at

Coimbra,
the

in

an

mother.

to

She

embowered

story Quinta
of five

He

Inez,though
him

das

child

of the

affinity.

of Pedro's

violence

suffer in silence

his wife's character.

her

natural

resisted.

longer

wrath
to

wife, the

on

still call from

than

to

Donna

by insistingupon

insuperablebar
of his

of

Infante,

the

"

mate
legiti-

connection
between
the father of
spiritual
its godmother being,according to the canons

Church,

on

positions,endeavored

consummation

being godmother

this

lite of Pedro's

the

and

she

their

to

authors-

unblessed

that

of delicate

woman

of

excess

prevent

"

"

the

Inez

feared

king,Alfonso,who

with

equal

it may

follows

espousals,satietysoon

"

and

character

enduring

however

Inez

that

"

by

of

insist

personal chastity

warranted

in Portugal

time

own

exceeded, during the

never

guishable
inextin-

an

asylum

an

attachment, though reciprocated with

her

poet, the

defenders

same

Scottish

the

as

the

Castro, the daughter of

had

seems

of

coloring

conceived

who

who

currence
tragic oc-

the

history

to

Castilian

from

of

scene

novelist, in Portuguese literature.

the

passionfor
a

CASTRO.

time, as

has

which

DE

obtained
in secret.

conceal

the

putations
disgracefulim-

lived in

perfect

quinta they
Lagrimas, where

children.

Some

favor-

MUUDKIi

OF

119

IMiZ.

"

king, who

ites of the

Pedro

between

case

becoming

her

whom

said

they

dispose of, and

security.
her

that

Inez

his
old

The

and

son

consent

to

besides

his

grandson's
who

king

the
horrid

infants

and

the

of

sight

the

remonstrances

and

Coelho,

once

they
in the
their

hastened

had

with

master

believing

of

had

gone

Inez

suaded
pertheir

execute

violent

and

acing
men-

herself

king, and

with

implored

Her

children.

and

his

beauty,
the

unharmed.

them

old
But

favorites,Gonsalves, Pacheco,
him

and
feelings,

the

of their

bosom

and

accompanied

his
to

induce

to

grandchildren, moved

of his
who

ing
he, look-

Infante

the

old

to

Inez, gave

; but

enemies

at

public

atrocity,slighted

the

the

and

left her

he

hardened

more

when

of the

his

for

love

such

was

attached

seclusion,threw

wife

son's

heart, and

man's

feet

the

at

much

Coimbra,

her

into

for his

mercy

visit

to

wife,

Inez

alliance,and

Inez, terrified

purpose.
intrusion

her

day

One

safety

the

as

stratagem

incapable of

father

of

well

as
was

matrimonial

another

the

his former

machinations
a

on

overshadow

death

of his unbounded

knew

hunting excursion,

the

that

queen,

premonitions.

upon

by

that

secretlycontriving to

was

timely notice of these

her
warning as
upon

him

her

Ferdinand,

insisted

indispensableto

would

apprehensions for

son,

of the

state

feared

who

brothers

in his bosom

Pedro's

Don

Inez, and

her

queen,

them, excited
of

and

real

the

suspected

to

with

quinta,plunged

his

hands

rage
O

of the

dyed

in the

sion
permis-

their

unresistingvictim, and

their

Goimbra,
knives

rejoined

blood

of his

daughter-in-law.
The

and

grief
O

F"or awhile

he

last,the

desire

Raising

the

him

was

incapable of

of vengeance

standard

determined

Infante

of

army,

action

rose
or

stifled every

revolt,he
with

which

soon

he

to

madness.

thought.
other

drew

At

feeling.
around

deluged

half

PEDRO'S

120

of

in blood

Portugal

REVENGE.

and

"

preparing a

was

his mother

against his father,when

and
and

submit

to

soul,and

be said for her

of his

resentment

In

the

treaty with

wife's

to

country
and

in

had

been

places of

to

and

indeed

this

same

better

had

to
to

agreed

deliver

have

By

to

was

taken
and

"

time

to

some

their

the

violate
up

by

own

timely warning

with
the
to

son's

of

want

sacred

rites

their master.
of his
the

three

sons

Maria

de Padilla

the

efforts he

assassins,Gonsalves

His

great purpose
his

Pedro

him.

grown

sacrificed

these

at that

fled from

them

contract

the Castilian

end.

received

had

They

under

had

secure

to

would

of the

of two

Pedro

thought

of Castile

had

trust

which

and
hospitality,

daughters of

remove

mosity.
sovereign's unprovoked anikindly received
by Alfonso,

gratification,
instigatedhim
Nay, the
mind, he

first

Portugal

who

their

thirst for vengeance,

of

His

of Pedro

were

escape

advanced

to

way

king died, and

murderers.

high rank,

They

to

masses

into a
Pedro
entered
persons,
of
for the mutual
monarch
surrender

that

of

the

sent

their

fugitives.There
Castilians

in every

the

throne.

dominions
of

control

get

his

in the

refuge

sought

arras

son.

vacant

on

vengeance

king

country, ordered

afterward

time

short

ascended

of the

out

The

termination
ex-

posed,
inter-

his

lay down

to

reconciliation.

assassins of Inez

the

him

prevailedupon

of

war

"

itself to

crown

obtained

and

to

possession
; Pacheco

Coelho

of his

danger,and escaped
into Arragon. All that the most
ingeniousmind could
refine into torture
was
practicedupon these miserable
were
wretches; their sufferings
long, agonizing,and
tillthe
terrible,
lost

in

the

expiated.
been

recollection

ferocityof
Thus

natural, if

the

far Pedro's
not

even

of their crime
torments

conduct

by

was

which

appears

but
justifiable;

almost
it
to

his next

was

have

step

122

\\I-NK.

Witie, salt,

exports, promises again to be prosperous.

constitute

fruits of all kinds

and

Douro,

The

Tagus,

the

of
the

upon

coast,

attempted

an

fatal.

be

would

entrance

act

elegant edifices,lay and religious,

the
purple grape,
streets, gardens filled with

Porto
clean

has

many

lemon-trees, and
Indian

what

the

lives
I

pork

Jew,

to

The

sweet

natives,who
had

christianized
as

Henry

of

pork

the
It

"

is

best, or

from

its

Oporto
countries

(or was)

there

and

some

find

of the

to

as
principle

gentry

taste

acti

deterioration
"Your

always

imports
a

are

be

the

the

well

as

of

annual

unreliable."

less

pipes.

and

quisition,
In/

Jew

other

This

is

trade,

even

now,

It is present

lighterwines

temporis pretend
character

men,"
;

to

and

once,

they

constitution.

they

export of which

for French

upon

to

fires of the

annually.

two-bottle

like the wine

drink

porcine morceau

of the national

depended

more

mass."

laudatores

old

flesh

juicy delicacy. Many

eighty thousand
diminishing. England

to affect

his

favorablyknown

most

affords

that

seldom

or

is the

Paris, so thought the

worth

wine, the

customer,

twi

render

about

however, is
its best

animal

enjoy

said of

well

was

The

resisted

to

Fourth

recollection

never

this

upon

vine ; but

pendant

my

to

acorn

told,who

was

there.

eat

gormandize

excess,

its

gratefullyin

the

palatable.

and

myrtle-treewith

wont

upon

orange-trees ; the
blossom, the flowering

lime

loaded

its gorgeous

most

was

it feeds

the

with

cane

aloes,and

and

full

dangerous. Indeed, in winter, when the

westerly winds, and the Atlantic waves

sometimes
force

outlet,which, with

its

at

navigation always delicate,

renders

shiftingsands,

its

bar

principalexportation.
citylies,has, like

the

which

upon

dangerous

its

drink

quence.
conse-

they

say, "were

had

stamina

But
"

in

to

your

of

modern

frothy,bodyless,

XIV.

CHAPTER

EAKLY

HISTORY*

OF

OF

RECAPTURE

AND

MANUEL

BUT

the

lives
Her

past.
of

her
with

other
of

of

The

far

so

Portugal
been

shores,

in

the
The

tania

(for

The

they

their

Where

the

such

turn

gave

Roman

was

the

of

the

feel

the

ent
presand
banks

the

on

Indians,
who

of

selves
our-

mounds

the

the

what

fashioned

day,

present
of

incapable

are

nations,

early

of

battle-grounds

navigators

commercial

relations

cording
re-

way

says

portions
ancient

of

for

visited

its

its inhabitants

with

Roman.

universal

the

to

has

Carthaginians,

the

by

and

Europe

Phenician

conquers,"

northern

template
con-

is, we

with

past

architects

followed

were

their

ancestors.
to

established
;

"

of

one

and

their

be

she

as

the

emulate,

to

known

centuries.

many

who

of

was

the

Portuguese

able

deeds

her

view

enlightened

by

Portugal,

intelligence

in

are

familiarize

discovers

superior

glories

should

through

associating

wonders

being

the

THK
DOM

succeeded

been

boast

behold

who

the

has

era

and

degenerate

from

indeed

in

of

and

Ohio,

them.

ARABS"
UiNDER

Her

monuments,

annals,

traveler

become

TH

"

DISCOVERIES

history.

travel

we

indications

the

has

her

in

whose

pigmies,

crumbling

the

as

DOMINATION

THE

Titanic

difficulty

same

ROMAN

CRUSADERS"

best

When

opprobrium.

the

THE

THE

HENRIQUE

DOM

generation

UOAl."

BV

Portugal

of

all

PORT

LISBON

Tacitus,
Iberia

appellation

and
of

"

he

habits."
in-

Lusi-

Portugal)

124

THE

after

succumbed,
combats,

contend

still to

seems

the

the

The

possessionof

advanced

in the

from

not

and

his

of the

and

but

devotion
the

lent

which

their

say

of

down

their

the way
About

backed

their

of

career

three

last of
the

the

ninsula;
Pemore

their

religion

for

taste

liberal

chivalric
individual

character

of

grandeur,

I shall

confirmed.

centuries

his heart.

they

of

actions

in

glory, while

consciousness

impetuous

dominion

the

pursuitsaccompanied

softened

for its reconquest

by

extraordinary people

their

formed

of civilized life than

Rome.

It is sufficient here

into which

was

fell into

were

received

had

Arab's

daily life

these

Spain.

"the

to

Peninsula

humanized

arts

scientific

to

bearing springing from

merit,

king, Roderic,

and

manners

la Frontera

Mohammed

of

sciences

de

Arabs, and

conquest

Christians,who

illustrated

refined

whole

This

Nazareth,

arts, and

their

followers

the

the so-called

when

victorious

the

caliphateof Spain.
for

centuries

two

of Xeres

battle

Moors,

entirelydefeated.

tion.
dura-

'

at

Arabian

the

themselves,

were

'

later,overcome

by

eternityof

tury
empire, in the fifth cenVisigoths and Suevi partitioned

era, the

Portugal, and

Rome

people.

for

time

Western

Christian

of the

the

aqueducts, the magnificent

with

the fall of the

On

dependence
in-

still behold

we

this wonderful

of

roads

for

rapine,neglect,and

; but

of the massive

and

bridges

thus

fiercelyasserted

of

years

succeeded

since

have

and

Hannibal,

hitherto

thousand

remains

solid

of

lost their

decay

protractedand sanguinary

series of

the conquerors

to

first time

the

ARABS.

to

by
after

when

say that the

ambition

the

have

led

Peninsula,
the
the

much

to

speak

of

civil

wars

them, broke
and

prepared

Goths.
defeat

of

Roderic,

Goths," Alphonso VI. of Castile,

Crusaders
whom
religiousbigotry at-

the

125

tracted

liis standard, drove

to

far south

Portugal

of the

who

Crusaders

in

elder

house

of

tho

same

times

those

the

at

Henry

Porto

till the

was

into

the

combined

Beja, of Evora,

of

in

madura,

and

nearly the

fell into

the

power

of

Cintra, and
The

many

conquest
It

triumphs.

of

commodious

with

fortifications

Avails

were

embraced
is at times

thousand

and

that

from

the

Alentijo,

providence

seventy-seven
of

north,

was

fourteen

of nations.

driven

Lisbon,

the

Tagus.

complement
day considered

impregnable.

with

after

soon

of the

by

stress

of

his
the

Peninsula,

Its Moorish

towers,

miles.
A

by

of Estre-

the

of

by Crusaders, partlyEnglish,proceeding
Land

followed

; and

south

important port

deemed,

in

"

the field

on

territoryof

the

at

even

the

to

men

whole

conqueror

was

circumference
the

Portugal

amounting

"

The

places

Lisbon

surmounted
a

that

surrendered, Santarem,

strong

was

most

entire

of the

Leiria

it was

but

Cale) ;

Portuguese annals,was

important consequences.

to\vns

of

soldiery. This victory,so

the most

the

rived
being de-

proclaimed king

was

Europe.

(thename

hundred

his enthusiastic

justlycelebrated

of

sents
repre-

feated
Alphonso, having dethe Walis
of Badajos,

Lisbon

of four

had

he

Coburg

Alphonso

son

forces

plainof Ourique,

of

royal stage

Port

or

and

his

Upon

Gallicia for his portion

house

kingdom.

Elvas

of

of the

Burgundy,

of Pcrtucal

his

number

victoryby

of

the

on

Gale,

of

reign

of the Duke

apparently performing in

the

role

erected

incredible

of

Burgundy

de

daughter,

Moors.

the

daughter, with

called Count

was

these

gave

of his

son

Count

present day

from

the

with

battles

his eldest

the

"

of

the

and

distinguishedhimself

most

brother, Raymond,

bestowed

not

had

hand

of northern

out

Douro,

reconquered provinces,with the

of Besanc.on,a younger
to Henry
Burgundy,

Moors

the

and

Chance

fleet,manned
to

the

Holy

of weather

126

PEDRO

into the

Tagus

troops

the very

it at the

of

interference

established,without

been

This

is the

them

the

first recorded

might

could

The

sea, and

by

affairs of

the

for them

but

land.

by

time

with

England
which

kingdom,

Lisbon

same

surrendered.

garrison soon

ious
Alphonso'svictor-

moment

approaching

were

attacked

Crusaders

The

at

I.

Portugal.
have

never

have

never

been

maintained.
A

the

afterward, Alphonso III., a Pope-appointed

king, effected the complete subjugation of
gal,
boundary of PortuAlgarve, the present southern
century

and

King
and

succeeded

Avas

Denis"

improvements

in

and

commerce

which

lasts

Portugal

and

at

flourishes

and

his ancestors
it

of the

unfortunate

good

of

agriculture,
at

present day
fertilized

and

national

afterward

at the

for

Coimbra,
;

and,

the

deed,
in-

doms
king-

conquered.

had
his

under

was

the

his wisdom

founded

He

protected, embellished
But

To

encouragement

Lisbon, and

"
"

greatly indebted

was

navigation.

university,first

Denis

son

Portuguese history.

of

of country,

love

his

by

Inez

grandson,

Pedro

I.

the lover

"

Portugal first began to

into importance as a power
in Europe. From
emerge
the extravagance
in regard to his murof his conduct
dered
wife

his accession

on

in the
and

the

expiatorysacrifices
mind

established

limited
the

would

of the

hardly

and

to

fame

devoted

the

reformed

ecclesiastical

have

to her

performed,he

common

the

indefatigableattention

kingdom,

no

to

execution

his

once

that

"

glory
courts

partiality
throne, his rigidim-

laws,
to

been
and

his

the

keen

ment,
judg-

interests

predicted.

of

But

untimely departure

the whole
of his
of law

privileges
; secured

energy

country.
;

of

He

repressed and
the

safetyof

of the
highways ; developed the internal resources
and
kingdom ; extended
strengthened its foreign alii-

and

mices;

"

Just," which

the

which,

Portugal

"

the

Ferdinand,

son

receded

and

under

his

of

first

his

secured

the
of

all efforts

from

Safe

it

But
the

He

under

and

European

by

his

discoveries
Guinea

stood
Indian
surnamed

the

by

with

Tormentoso,
Bouthernraost

the

on

increased

African

quent
subseof
tent
ex-

tion
entire revolu-

an

his

own

means,

the- fleet
Canaries

his brother

was

another

adding

added

made

new

the

on

equinoctialline,and,
maritime

discoveries

Cape, had

promontory

at

of John

ecuted
prosof

given

that time

the

II.,

were

name

been

to

route

succeeding reign
The

tion,
supersti-

and

ignorance

energy.

Stormy

son,

his country

navigators

the

Great, maritime

or

rendered

while

his

of

menaces

Under
the

to

acquisitionsbefore

out
fearlessly

seas.

the

subjected the

coast, boldly passed the

undeterred

great

grand system
so
gloriousan

Africa, and

in

kingdom,
the

to

and
And

crown.

prosecutingconquests
the

his

he equipped
energies,

Madeira,

Portuguese
to

Spaniard.
ished.
kingdom flour-

Through

unaided

own

against

of the

effected

commerce.

discovered

Algarve

and

dreaded,

in

the

carried

Ourique

Aljubarota,

this and

that

succeeding monarchs,

powerful

to

inaugurated

discoverywhich,

maritime

of

the

illustrated

that

Henry,

reign.

which

all fears

dinand's
Fer-

on

country

daring enterprises of

the

was

of

battle

battle

creased
in-

Joao, the

Don

of the

The

removed

throne,

son,

foreignmolestation

all

Prince

and

Moors.

Joao,

Don

by

the

to

The

independence

the

vitalityand

new,

natural

of Avis.

of the house

successor,

guished
wife, Constance, lan-

gained

"

decease, of Pedro's

won

of

impartialhistory

degenerate

the accession

vigor upon

had

highest

him.

accorded

founder

that

deserved, indeed,

well

earthly attributes,
has

127

HENRY.

DON

Cabo
to

the

known.

128

I'KKSTER

fears hung
superstitious

thousand

belief that

torrid

the

heat, had

Prince

advancing

scientific

it ; and

over

Henry's

much

the

from

uninhabitable

was

deterred

even

more

zone

from

mariners

although

JOHN.

beyond

cessive
ex-

turous
adven-

it.

Kor,

applicationof astronomy

to

in these
begotten greater confidence
could King John inspire
enterprises,
any navigator with
resolution
this formidable
to double
Conscious,
cape.

had

navigation

of the great influence

however,
the

mind,
superstitious

that of the

Unable

present day.

sea, he

by

dispatched
journeys
excited

long

considered

was

; and

information

But

while

discovery"of

Morio

domiciliated
Madeira
and

of

potentate who
and

the

at

King

had

this time
of

sinia
Abys-

I find in the Portuguese

exploitsor
John

wholly

was

had

fate of these

probably

never

intent

the

upon

had

on

whose

daughter

been

papers

nautical

Porto

at

made

the

of

one

B.

distinguishedmariners,

from

"

himself
had

married

most

information

which

thence

the realms

supposed route, he neglected the opportunity

world
his
dominions.
to
adding a new

Palestrello

much

distant

on

this

Henry's

de

of the

Joao

ChristopherColumbus
Prince

He

romance.

King

of

of

land.

by

out

with

of Prester

realms

of

out

find

the

at

his discoveries

household

country.

relation

it bears

India,to acquire geographical

facilitate the ardently-desired

that

to

no

The

envoys.

to

should

route

annals

existed

other

which

maritime

identified

as

the

his

of Europe,
curiosity

the

given it,to

prosecute

Christian

supposed

of Cabo

had

effect them

to

has upon

name

which

to

Ethiopia,to

to

John,

further

officers of

two

the

Diaz

Hope,

thought

one

"

Prester

of Good

Cape

sound

mere

changed

Bartheleml

which

Tormentoso,

he

Santo,

colonized

voyages

matters.

of

an

he

had
He

island

rived
dehad
near

by Palestrello
discovery in the
"

130

ENTERPRISE.

PORTUGUESE

ascended

and

aid of

reached

gulf,and
himself

native

sovereign

Lisbon

He

which

with
in

Dom

Manuel,

now

assumed

of the

World,

partly by

he

and

sailed

in addition

to

from

trade
his

his

which

and

king

"

driven
and

great

to

men

extended

bestowed
of Vidi-

Count

of

the

Cabral,
the

on

winds

by contrary

empire

possession in the name

adventurous
Portuguese,

from

Ormuz,

Gulf, to Malacca;
as

the

successors,
and
and

fortress and
and

he

of
Cor-

Greenland.

Albuquei'que, the greatest of the

Portugal sent to India, the Portuguese

rival Lisbon

naor,

Ethiopia,

Alfonso

dominions
Persian

the

of

discovered

tereal,sailingnorthward, reached
Under

of

he took

another

rived
ar-

titles,

sonorous

Alvares

year

was

and

royal monopoly

next

westward,

course

Brazil,of

the

The

India,

to

voyage

from
of

India.

with

Zcinwrin

of Lord

one

suasion,
per-

enthusiasm.

his other

in the

mighty

years' voyage.

unbounded

extraordinary

share

the

two

Conquest, Navigation, and Commerce

Arabia, Persia, and India.
Upon Gama
him
the title of Admiral, and
created
gueira, with

announced

homeward,

after

July, 1499,
with

the

the

across

embassador

received

was

boldly

thence,

He

partlyby force,obtained

rich cargoes,

and

of Malabar.

the

as

Western

of the

and

at

pilot,steered

the coast

Calecut

at

of Caffraria ; visited

coast

friendlyMelinda;

the

and

Mozambique
Avith the

unknown

the

in
seat

Joao
the

and

wealth

annexed

to

city of Due,

of the

mouth

Goa, which

began

soon

population,was
Vice-Royalty. Under

Castro

Moluccas

the

and

of the

de

at

or

the

and

Islands

Portuguese

kingdom

were

of

territories

in the

quered
con-

The

crown.

Cambay,

wealthy Deccan, fell

under
the Portuguese dominion.
The
policy of
Portuguese, like that of the English afterward, was
large

his

others, Cochin, Cau-

Spice

in the

lished
estab-

also

the
to

PROSPERITY

excite

the

when

both

were

interposeand

conflicts,to

1:!1

PORTl'dAI,.

againsttheir

Hindoos

native

and

masters,

OF

in incessant

out

worn

seize

Mohammedan

the

upon

exhausted

countries.
The

of Ormuz

wealth

China

Indian

trembled

Continent, Brazil
already from
her

various

the

fosteringcare

sails of
and

and

enriched

But

its

decay

was

before

the

death

of Joao

Half

century had

of greatness
the

would

machinery

of

of the

sciences

being in

his

of the establishment

would
politician

the

III.

drained

raise

the

it to

witnessed

its decadence

opinionthe

its fall. To

paralyzed
of arts

progress

of that tremendous

kingdom

Protestant

; the

necessary

useless

pinnacle

demoralization

the

the arrested

Even

culminated.

had

the
Inquisition,

find in the

the

agriculture,

its rise.

than

Portugal

years

the

clime.

every

country.

rapid

short

the

of Lisbon

and

of
and

consequences

authority. The
waged

wars

succeedingking,Sebastian,againstthe
which

Western

with

warehouses

government,
and

the

thousandfold

crowded

commerce

sufliced to

attribute

public mind,

the

productionsof

more

few

introduction

writer

the

"

isles of

On

were

the

the

manufactures,

nourished, and

Japanese freely

remotest

name.

gal,
Portu-

mother-country.

Douro

the

filled with

Oporto

Arts

of the

nation, and

every

the

productions,repaying

and

into

poured

springing into importance and

of gold and diamonds, and with

was

cereal

Tagus

the

at its

mines

her

of Ind

alliance,and

ports, while

Ocean

The

its

sought

their

opened

and

of its best

Moors

in

soldiers

by

the

Africa,
and

its

neglected,a
foreign possessions were
sufficient explanationof its untimely decrepitude. The
economist
would
insist upon
the depressing weight of
taxation,upon the rapacityof the fiscal officers,and

wealth,

upon

while

the

wasteful

expenditure

of

the

government.

132

indeed,

These,

which

its

the

During

of

treasures

broken

of

the

of
in

has

the

is

But

still
that

England
long

incorporated

sunk

of

Pombal

Portugal
of

the

"

"

its

followed

gave

Spain.

succeeded

faded

or

of
from

first

which

administration
Gran

induced

natural

in

independence

third,

O
it

House

the

position
a

nationality,
its

ments
establish-

possessions

self-interest

maintain

with

other

"

feeling

have

Dutch

IV.,

of

force

and

the

though

the

English

the

that

to

firmed.
con-

richest

securing

From

1640

military

though

the

tugal,
Por-

its

Joao

recall

not

it

in

called

to

since

and

could

Marquis

of

person

emerged,

Carvalho,
he

the

and

of

and

and

Africa,

in

its

The

fall

domination

wasted,

country.

never

Spanish

commercial

its
and

Europe

of

crown.

Spaniard
it

Portugal,

power
it

in

Braganza,

glories

the
of

Philip

destroyed,

Indies

the

expelling
of

from

II.

by

were

commerce

possession
in

years

state

its

torn

took

sixty

the

precipitated

have

conquest

the

up,

colonies

all

may

of

Marques"
luster.

temporary
the

of

crown

Portugal
destiny,

as

would

and

been

CHAPTER

ARRIVAL

HOTEL

CADIZ"

AT

MUCH

the

bold

the

Lisbon,

revolutionary

our

Jervis

Spanish

English
of

squadron

Dom

the

on

in

crown,

with

1836,

Miguel,

throne.

the

Spanish

and

With

the

tacit
the

and

here

of

assent

Portuguese

wind

favorins:

fleet,

ing
support-

Dom

placed

thereby

ing
dur-

twenty-seven

Nelson

flight

to

put

Vincent,

Rodney,

vessels,

Napier,

again

Here

him.

half-way

here

routing

by

1797,

inferior

fifteen

with

sail

in

ampton
South-

St.

men-of-war

two

board

from

Cape

For

been

on

passed,

defeated

war,

earldom

his

won

Spain.

have

liners
We

"

POOR

should

of

destroying

five, and

capturing

the

Cadiz.

to

MUCHACHAS

THE

embarked

promontory

disastrous

historically

the

for

Gibraltar,

of

one

THE

"

FOR

that

Portugal,

Madrid,"

"

to

from

with

PODRIDA

-ASYLUM

myself

with

pleased

steamer

OLLA

"

MANUFACTORY

pleased

well

so

BLANCO

CIGAR

ROBBERS"

XV.

dro
Pe-

weather

and

the

captain

"

the

near

told

point

to

to

We

left

Cadiz

at

mountains

lofty

P.M.

nnd

the

far

which

1 1

frowning

day

distance
on

obliged

to

stand

mounting
sur-

too

far

Bay

of

sound.

at
next

the

from

bell

vesper

were

the

Lisbon

passage.

catch

to

sea

hear

sufficiently

approached

"

We

convent.
out

often

he

me

nearer

heights

"

entered

and

A.M.

off

than

shorter
we

had

seemed

approach
to

bar

made

all

progress

the

average

an

line

from

of

their

beyond.

134

I;OIN";

They

the

were

made
Cadiz

at

rests

palaces

Sierra
sea

the

sea

ramparts which

are

ever

like

ocean

ground with
gird it more
polishedfrom

the

cover

fresh and

marks
the first land-

are

the Atlantic.

on

upon

arid

Ronda,

de

Its

swan.

shining

white, and

snowy

than

round

four miles

the

ceaseless

the

of

wave

the Atlantic.
in

anchored

We

with

Quite

their

charges

good-looking tall

inquired, in English, if
knew

other

no

said

land

on

few

for

The

left little

I wished

and

me,

prepared

was

the

hope

Ford

with

delay

where

with

undergo

at

Lisbon

for

usage

better

his

in

confirmed

his

counsel.

before

My
steamers
my

I could

had

In

trouble
filed

"

I had

my

passengers
the

mean

less
quickly in much
at Liverpoolor Havre.
"

liberally,

to

Generally my

But

Custom-house

on

this

to

travel

experience

occasion

I used

tute
satisfactorysubsti-

opportunity;
passed my luggage
no

for the
almost

unstrap it.

Lisbon

landing at

much

here.

its sometimes

nor

passport I had
at

than

open.

cigars. Indeed,

officers of the

he

baggage

employ
Spain, judiciousbribes, and

always

"

repliedI

my

English

our

countrymen

purse

money

and

to

of

the

neither

and

me,

Whereupon

me

experience

less trouble

cautions

every

ices.
serv-

(about twenty cents). In a

terra firma.
on
My tall acquaintance
and accompanied me
tom-house.
to the Cus-

time, I got through easilyand

time

extortionate.

boat.

put

their

accosted

gettingashore.

vexatious

and

mind,"

was

to

be

make

to

engaging
will

the

"peseta"

adhered

well

were

personage

of his would

minutes

here.

of

way

friend

It

us.

from

boatmen

gentry before

these

Otherwise

and

bay;

boarded

cityimmediately
bargain

the

given

up

and, as it was
Cadiz, I supposed
;

the

to

not

the

agent

of

inquired for
agent had

the
on

givon

THE

it

the

at

Spanish authorities,and

the

to

the

be

to

out

when

bureau

proper

turned

135

110T.KI,.

The

case.

that

I should

wanted

it

find it

all which

"

of

great bugbears

two

I had
thus
passport and luggage
European travel
happily got over.
dinner.
My next thought was
My good-looking
my
friend advised,as the two
best,the Hotel d'Europe and
"

"

the

Hotel

had

who

man

decided

Hotel

they

one

vacant

for

Lady

the

before

look

must

in the
Avho

John

unreasonable

the

I followed

Bull
; and

Alameda.

These
to the

my

I found

me,

His

that

reserved

Seville

course,

exhibited

the landlord

monstrance
re-

but

was

was

from

expected
irate,and, of

was

in angry

There

hotel, and

was

had

house, he said,was

elsewhere.

evening.

States," and

the landlord.

room

kept by a
spoke English

luggage
who
English fellow-travelers,

hotel

with

full,and

"

; and

My

the

at

latter,he said,was

overlooked

me

Blanco.

arrived

in

been

his house

well ; and
reasons

The

Blanco.

that

somewhat

ent
correspond-

recalcit ration.
The

full

was

get into

be

might
safe

"

in and

taken

which

upon

the

told

distance,and
the

was

me,

mercenary

as

conversation,

second-rates

the

Hotel

Blanco

done

"

the

who, my

landlady.

ours,

but

very

more

"

the

landlord

nice-looking,

still constant
fairer

The

stranger

I avoided

for."

approached

; and

language

English split,
passed the

black-eyedpersonage,
so

the

this

from

first of

the

was

I could

I learned

strange city,ignorant of placesand

rock
at

Europa,

so

"

unless

in

Hotel

ion
compansex

is not

impressionableand

the expected homage

sympathetic. Having rendered
to her
decided, I
good looks in language sufficiently
told

This

give

her

my

she
up

situation,and

readily accorded
my

rooms

when

solicited
;

Lady

and,

on

her

my
should

interference.

promise
arrivo

to

(tho

136

OLLA

parentheticallyshe would
landlady told me
that night),installed me
into a clean suite
that overlooked
that

dinner

At

I encountered

day

famous

national

has

had

little influence

dish

upon

various
of

uneducated

it,the

with

with

not

determination

and

cara-

savory

attached

are

; but

To
past
re-

become

you

impregnate

to

be.ef and
dish.

one

seem

better

odors

ladies

quainted
ac-

it.

to

It

breath

your

where

all

their

heads, and

abused

the next

day

few

all seemed

days

I grew

so

which

; and
or
"

Dinner

to

enamored

garlicwith
oil with

had

some

it

their

the

pains

the

at
to

abandon

an

table

conceal

the

landlord

in

first step that

corn-age

to

it

was

that, before

costs

seasoned,

long, the

in

;
a,

accompanied,became

gent
pun-

the rancid

and
a

nature

obliged to forego it,in

day I was
otherwise, I thought with the Roman
lost

good-

relish this institution.

if any

I had

aside

; and

taste

"

their

shoulders, turned
absent

of it

which
was

no

the

with

English

it is but

However,

terms.

The

thing Spanish ;

every

podrida

took

"

shrugged

"

olla

myself.

the
particularly

repugnance

embrace

to

into the

pitched

astonished

that

me

as

participate,
As
with
revolt.
if
none
smoking, self-defense,
inclination,compels its adoption. I entered Spain

with

set

Sabean

than

other

in

not

you

garlicis apt

the

is true

more

of it

speak

slices of

served

but, like virtue, the

thereby

carrots, peas,

"

with

it does

stomach

it

as

tuces,
bean), onions, garlic,let-

celery and long peppers,

ham, all boiled together, and
an

and

Spain,and

I will

"

first time

nies
subsequent desti-

in

future

(a peculiarkind

podrida

my

months

permanently affectingmy
it is. Its ingredients are
bansas

for the

the olla

"

three

detaining me

"

of apartments

the Alameda.

the

no

arrive

not

to

eling
trav-

peror,
Em-

day."

accomplished, I

strolled out

on

the

Alameda,

1:38

IGNORANCE

The

Roman

poet, with

the

In her

Gaditanian

Vera

walk

very

She

an

eye

be

may

LANGUAGE.

attuned

her

by

unequaled step

goddess appears"
walk

whose
said

veals
beauty, re-

to

patuit Dea."

incessu

the

beauty,

charms.

THE

of Love

Queen
"

"

OF

and

"

emblazons

her

walk

"

literally,to

with

so

other

into your

affections."
Till

the

walked

Alameda

the

For

seemed

laed beauties.

know

There

nothing

kindness,

was

appreciation

an

positionwhich

language, I
undisguised admiration
smile

that

would

could

and

ease

their

manlil-

address

and

own

no

your

ant
Ignor; but

one

and

ner,
man-

unstudied

confidence.

raised,now

then, a"

emboldened

have

feeling.

in their

bold

an

inspiredimmediate

of the

or

of

in

not

of these

some

; hut

assurance

objects I

all

stranger, but

obscured

already to

indelicate

no

had

coming night

my

blush

otherwise

me

speak. How
poignantlyI regrettedmy ignorance
of the Spanish! I could
but
not
say to myself,Avith
Sir Andrew
Aguecheek : I would I had bestowed
that time on the tongues that I have
in fencing,dancing,
and bear-baiting
!" and I registereda vow
to take
to

"

Spanish instructor
I dreamed
and
A

night I

of eyes,

of

Cadiz, alone

could

American
for the

this

woman

from

outrage.

than

himself.

be

as

or

and

fear

covered

with

over

of
not

for himself
He

is too

It would

beautiful,can
insult.

walk

the

hour

how

so

much

that the

proud
endanger

from

of

much

English, French,

an

be

With

tillas,
man-

room.

unprotected,any

of

said

It may

city?

was

fair

night, without

truth

delay.

like stars, illuminating

my

girl,however

streets

the

that

without

or

respect

Spaniard refrains

to

his

assail

weaker

self-esteem

to

139

MANNERS.

guilty of

be

protection, and
unmolested

night

at

conversation

with

you,
not

gentlemanly.

She

may

but

the

less

The
the
or

none

ladies

the

public streets

or

stillattends

married

till at

after

least

By this,I

do

ladies of Cadiz
would

"

call

of their

speak

tout

their

particularly,quien sabe f

Let

in

But,

lovers.

with

in the

public, their

inferred

What

gestures, attempt
better-concealed
virtuous

and

Once

was

by

some

Johnson

Dr.

I
be

those
and

speak who
bearing

their

know.

proachable.
irre-

are

ing
noth-

betray
no

lascivious

suspiciousallurements, expose
; but

appear

vice,in losing

virtuous

as

no

the

as

loses

all its grossness,

and

but

girlsno

while

once

better

than

in

Spain, I

they

I heard

voices

shouting

"

Voi

was

should

walking from the hotel to the Casino,

(intowhich I had been introduced
by
and
was
passing through a somewhat

street, when

only

deformity."

indeed,

insulted

the

houses, of the married

manners

charms
"

half of its

one

no

works
out-

that

may

de joie themselves
filles
profession abroad ; make

their

the

surrender.

to

The
of

lady

contraire.

an

some

admirer,

an

them,

what

in

The

No

lips to

public deportment.

privacyof

conduct

haps,
per-

fathers

their

convenances.

it shall be

"

be

gentlemen

unless

distinguishedfor

surly virtue"

an

address

daughters, or

less her

intend

are

will enter

with

arm

betrothal; for

not

she

highest ton,

carried,the citadel is bound

once

side of

virtuous.

unmarried

satisfyles

or

the

acknowledged

or

hand, much

her

in

walk

manner

your

of the

promenades,

the

friend,to

concedes

provided

arm

brothers, husbands,

duenna

by

likelyto be

walk

never

their

plaza, and
be

sure

by day they

as

Sit down

on

is their

sex

unaccosted, unless

and

unaccompanied lady
into

well

as

solicits attention.

tongue

Their

discourtesy.

be.
house
Club-

or
our

sul),
con-

retired

aqid,

In-

140

FLOWERS.

fflese,"" Ven
my

head, I

more

than

to

me

I crossed

of adieu

made

up

all

of

Flowers
in

not

what

Alameda

the very

and

elevated

apartments,

crowd

is

read !

for

Can

half of

expressed

and

words

as

as

that

uncorked

on

paper,

the

in

Give

burn?"

Champagne.

passion;
heart,as the
a

the

and

on

One

They

lion works
his tail.

Is not

that

But

vent,

insipid

write

self
him-

is transferred

of words
himself

as

so

breathe,

such

becomes

one

it be

thoughts

could

can

sentiment

can

indeed

arm.

your

how

soon

of the

be

to

letters ?
and

streets

gayly-dressed

passion no

the warmth

lashinsr his flanks with

tertulias

endearing

of her

their

these

the

upon

hanging

an

trees

milk," upon

the mu-chachas.

"

it loses all its aroma,

into
to

ignorant

with

coffee,or

with

passion its expression?

well

and

is

flat roofs

occasional

muchacha

and

their

down

entertain

one

girl who

objectionto

one

these

pleasanter sometimes

yourself,with

There
not

is

upon

cacy.
exquisite deli-

hold

thronged

Cadi/

with

with

look

and

covered

out

often take

and

them

pedestrians; it

than

balconies,ay,

Indeed,

laid

pleasant to

see

of

reach

where,

every

the

lecJie " chocolate

It is

very

associated,

world,

flowers

houses.

plants,and

con

below, and

the

plazas,upon

chocolate

there.

in

see

inhabitants

The

in

shouted,

harsh

more

ever

gardens themselves,

beautiful

and

I fear used

girls seem
but

You

roofs of the

sometimes

are

is

in nature

merely,
and

hand

my

screamed
and

Levite,

get beyond the

to

beautiful

poetry

the

girl?

angry

and

balconies,and

side,waving

of faces at me,

illustrates the fact.

the

other

over

up

apparently

Like

them.

whereupon they

for

an

girls,neither

to

up

I hastened

their tongues,

looking

old, leaning from

the

manner

language.

the voice

four

or

come

to

over

token

bad

three

saw

fifteen years

beckoning

and

aqui, caballero^

into

the

mere

rage

by

median-

THE

ical part

of

become

stale,flat,and

"

the

mind

who

know

and

talkative

It is said
withhold
will

their

but

of

one

the

to

of

of

few

views
inter-

is

nothing
girlknows

Cadiz

other

many

subjects she
of families

on

carry

purposely

secret

that Earl

he

Douglas,
God

bishop, knew

they

pondence
corres-

of

forgery,thanked

stands.
under-

for fear

daughters

! Like

and

sons,

circling
en-

lips even,

there

than

their

from

heard

his

then

fathers

their lovers

he

when

mind,

well

knowledge

with

who,

is

the

that

the

the

girls
quick, apprehensive,lively,

talks

instruction

use

But

She

and

"

hand,

of

to

letters,more

these.

the

control

responds

her

of

unprofitable"after

instinct.

brutal

thing but

every

the

141

WHITE.

pressure

waist,

the

; unless

but

the

love,

of

CAN'T

CJIKLS

that

how

to

write !
The

muchacha

liquors. The
get drunk

Cadiz

brandy

Champagne,

but

the

Spanish

and

observation

Of

more

I heard

course,

In Lisbon

banditti.
and

truth

much

not

and

quite roused,
Cadiz,

my
laid aside

for

purse
the

may

and

of

have

her

of

least

after

Before
life safer

in

of

in

Spanish

Avell

there,

arrival

my
a

at

Colt's

left,however,

than

Spain.

imagination

my

evening,

an

from

forewarned.

was

tales

had

time

some

person,

learned

Spaniards very
So

never

own.

country,

like the

pocket.

my

the

more.

carried, at

in

There

don't

They

consequently

gratifiedwith

often

was

all stimulants

stories of robberies

many

I reached

Indeed, before

is

grisetteon

avoids

courtezan

self-respect.So I
than
intelligent
my

her

maintains

class,will

French

sullen, is careful

maudlin, irascible,or

intoxicating

abandoned

the

She

liquid nature.

the

gin,

or

drinks

never

English girl,of

on

of

of

Broadway,

volver
re-

sidered
con-

and

detonator.
be

in all civilized

robbers

in

countries;

Spain, and

but

since

doubtless
the

are,

as

la^t civil war,

142

KOBBERS.

robberies

been

have

I became
had

eminent

been

professionfor

him

cafe ; and

the

bandit, but

office in the

an

I met

at

acquainted with

on

two

him:

"Fuma

same

time

honorable

^lstedf'"'' "Will

offering him

more

ment.
employ-

Spanish,

at

dressed
ad-

smoke, sir,"

you

"Gracias,

puro.

gratias," he replied.
little French, and
putting mine

that

evenings

try my

muchissimas
talk

exchanged

successive

occasion, to

one

who

man,

Custom-house,

three

or

minishing
dailydi-

are

one

had

perhaps, but generallyless

lucrative

as

infrequent,and

very

I found

he

with

his,we

could

got

along tolerablywell together.

He

told

pride of

discovered

he

When

stories of his

many

conscious

the

the hero.
the

Some

who

cafe where

same
was

man

in this

in

of

them

their fears.

they

teeth, and valiant

the whole
was

these

as

from

distance

arrivingat
seemingly

the
close

had

He

St. Maria

the

for its toleration

attributed

let the

to

him.

rob

Lucar

armed

had

traversed

to

the

to

nearly

unencountered

; and

the

gates of
to

his

as

an

Lucar,

San
"

ear

"
mouth
a-tierra,"(literally

this voice

rated

terrifynor

San

Cid.

and

robbers

exaggerated fears of travelers

imaginary bandits, when just as he was

attributing to
stories of

the

be

determined

was

This

puros.

he

ercised
ex-

frequenting

terms

which

neither

for

our

he

American

an

of

world,

the

he

could

was

should

there

toleration

started

he

day

there

moderate

no

for one,

But

villains know
one

"

countrymen

my

smoking

were

indignant that
enlightenedperiod of
Government

of

in the habit

was

we

sympathy.
lated
American, he re-

an

one

very

Spanish

So

was

arms,

with

expects

before, he said,while

years

profession of

residing at Cadiz,
the

that

and

brigandage,

who

one

of which

adventure

an
was

me

You
to

of

son

the

accompaniment

voice

shouted

thief,boca-

ground") ;
a

and

as

shining carabine

aimed

belly; while
his pockets
told

the

the

as

"

Quien sabe ?" was

My friend advised
from

little money
rather

robbery
the
There
but

were

"

those

mala

but
necessities,

expressed

with

mutxial

One

day

attended

was

on

my

stranger, and

and

beautiful
are

would

landlords

of
of

arrieros.

or

foresters,"
An

one.

for

money

as

danger

more

his

hidalgo

temporary

condescend

cheat

to

were

ninas

"

girl

parted.
; I went

cigar manufactory

the

advice, and

who

man

and
arrival,

visited

me

I had

whom

they

asked

nothing

only
board

on

taken

They
more

"

into
I

saw
a

sand
thou-

gathered together muchaehas^ mofull grown

girls,pullets,and children,
"

leaves

into

cigars.

them.

among

condemned
it is

we

for his

courteously received.

was

rolling tobacco
they

you

carry

person

the

not

grateful thanks

I visited

women

zas,

to

"Diana's

never

compliments

service.
a

my

by "Juan,"

the steamer
my

upon

of it.

out

his

into the interior,

escorts

my

gente^

would

he

I had

among

your

damask

closed

look

said,from

caballeros

might boldly demand

you

he

he

as

much

many

But

posadas, and

many

among

for

starve.

cealment,
con-

good joke.

large towns,

or

let

reply.

if I traveled

me,

apprehend,
and

ventas

the

course

possible;

than

me

to

of

"

his

on

as

never

countryman."

my

sea-ports

as

rob

feed

let it out

undeceived

while,rifled

have

"

who

far

bud,

Caballero," said I,
smoke, I suppose, I must

in

man

i' the

worm

his

en

traveler

rather

Don

Signer

narrative

would

flat

all the
Our

listen to

to

laid himself

him.

that his arriero

cheek," but
"

disarmed

and

like

thought best

bandit, smoking

misfortune, and

his

he

head,

immediately

and

commands,

its

his

directlyat

14o

MANUFACTOKY.

CIGAll

to

The

breathe,and

said, ruin

their

I did

not

unwholesome
the

see

air

finement,
sedentary con-

constitutions

and

coin-

144

ASYLUM

plexions. It
the

freelycommented

were

often

object of

the

afterward

told

was

excessive

smoking,

giving them

an

passion with

the

old

lower

But

of

that

chews

the

Another

and

young

day
I

in

much

aided

is

Tobacco

skin.
and

classes,men

in

girlsindulged

habit

withered

The

women.

old smoke

immoderately.
only

one

filthyweed.

formerly United
was

visited,in

Consul

indebted

for

It is

Mr.

with

company

States'

for the poor.

Asylum

the

me

building.

nations, America, I believe,is the

all

kindness

of the

all these

that

unhealthy

snuff;and

ones

and

hot for

too

rooms

outside

that

myself

laughter. This, Avith

the

the

on

to

looks, your

I found

and

upon,

unconcealed

glad to get

was

subjected

was

you

througli

go

dress, your

atmosphere, made

the heated
and

about

Your

scrutiny.

severest

age,

running the gauntlet to

was

Every thing

the crowd.

POOR.

THE

FOB

Malaga,

at

much

Reed,
whose

to

the
gratification,

tilated,
large building,well venwith a walk through the grounds in front,decorated
and perfumed by flowers of various kinds.
ly
Near-

thousand

of
institution,
latter

and

the

even

are

which

one

with

the

thumbscrew,
for

sound

have
in

but

custom, which

disused, never

annals

clear

are

the

save

As
mav

soul ; but

thought

power

to

illustrative
be

worth

attention

never

"

prevailed in

neither

which

the

that

foul blot.

body

nor

any

insanityinto
flagellate
of

while

the
to

craving

state

that

indeed

gained foothold

of such

it is true, destroyed
Inquisition,
to

These

confined

abolished, and

were

recently been
Her

only

this

long after the lesser cruelties of the

iron boot, and other ingenioustortures

persons

Spain.

insane.

are

are

in

maintained

great humanity and

barbarous

civilized countries

and

tenth

furious

most

This

whipped.

fed

persons

treated

are

in the
other

The

hope

abused

reason.

for

tobacco

the

insane

here, it
of xvhat-

146

It is
is

BLAS

OIL

AND

peculiarmerit

of

in customs,
essentially,
the

speech

of

Le

and
lived

Sage

centuries

two

that

I did

had

its prototype

not

indeed

The

me.

upon

the

same

and

if

world,
hook

style
did

he
it

why

reason

real

I detained

him

in

in Don

apothegm,

age,

when

flattered

uneducated

and

the

plunging

He

his

Spain, every
and

Don

barber-surgeon

either

quired
capacity,I relineallyfrom

in

he

was

and

speech,in

felt very

he

the

to

other

of Don

much

semblance.
strikingre-

Spaniard

of the

pretended

Quixote
The

biographer.

their

vantes,
; Cer-

Don,

with

religion. Preparatory
therefore

one

Quixote

Avas

"Scipio,"

with, believed, or

existence

part of

Spaniard

puts his house

Estit

not

do

every

great

; for

should

they

the

are

to

cram

carte

pays.

The

"

into

Gil Bias

with
JH

as

I met

real

might

The

like

so

of the

one

and

him

his attention

well

as

classes

Cid, is

Bias

Cadiz,

at

in

me

he

truth,

descended

in features

they said, was

the

under

and

thought

service

of Gil Bias.

I called

believe,in

to

accosted

between

Quixote

He,

itself

thrust

had

in my

Cadiz, might have

friend

our

Bias.

us,

he

professionalservices, in

Avhose

I had

tell the

to

resemblance

accomplished valet

the

Gil

Gil
parasite of Penaflor
call me
the eighth wonder
because

day

which

the

as

not

fancied

or

something

boarded

ashore,

came

easily;and,

as

or

not

was

resemblance

had

who

There

Quixote
a

vantes
Cer-

writers, though they

encounter

before

she

mode

for centuries.

been

more.

or

see,

perhaps

was

me

or

tourist,that

character, and

modern

are

man

guidance

whose

has

in Don

landed

the

to

manners,

ago

hear,

not

Spain

she

same

QUIXOTE.

DON

expect
the

muy

to

honors

la
find
of

receives
and

but

all that

little company,

chez

is in it at

disposal.

dispositionde
him
the

often

house,

in.
and

ustcd"

His
soon

"

wife

your
but
or

you

Ini.

must

daughters

put you

at

your

THK

for

ease;

there

Yon

ladies.

tambour

with

which

does

task

find

than

But

employment,

will not

etiquette;
so, but

rise,as

search

find

not

can

of

the

at

It is the

by

inner

an

curtain

from

the

sexes,

who

day.

From

they

their

medicines

the

over

shop, and

they buy

The

jealoushusbands.

of

matter

"

him

in

the

at

of

mongers
news-

shop, separated
of both

persons

of the

occurrences

they
find

come.
wel-

gathering-place,

customer's

ambuscade,

the

enter

talk

to

come

not

are

you

of the

rear

is

that

your

for

evenings, of

resort, during the

interfere

great rendezvous

in the

room

their

is still less

friend

Spanish

on

other

some

nevertheless

casino, look

or

silk

gratification.

your

hand, which

manner

the

cafe

apothecary'sshop.
;

their

at

leave, for

or

some

and

will not

presence

enter

at

delicacy of

that with

you

give you
by their

nor

express

If you

your
nor

Spanish

busy perhaps

infringe the

Avith their

as

bred

sharp needles, or

not

hands.

is the

them

their

matchless

They

better

none

occupation,intertwiningthe gold

domestic
the

arc

will

147

APOTHECARY.

customers

see

can

-what

out

particular

importance

some

to

business
druggist's

apothecary's or

lucrative ; their prescripSpanish city is most

tions,
whether
for prevention or cure, gain an
extensive

in

sale.
third
there

The

large

as

makes

official report

is many

as

the

illegitimateone

legitimate births
intrusted

secret

the

in Cadiz
the

to

apothecary,

disagreeably affect

which, divulged, might

; and

domestic

relations.
The
where

apothecary'sshop
four

streets

grocer's, where
"

buy
double
with

for their
the
the

grocer

servants

masters

on

of the

usually one

Another

meet.

the

amount

is

of
credit

corner

the
and

will

corners

be

the

family congregate
are

debited

with

properly chargeable,they dividing

the surplus. Still another
is
corner

148

CUCHAKES.

the

vinos

people

for

clulces

on

"

will live

towns

So

middle

of

good

all their customs,

Spaniard is

and
proffersa civility,
at least

I had
there
"

res
"

but

been

was

to

and

the

if

was,

I found

so

"

las

few

of

Queen
"

and
of

no
one

"

Who

acquire

and

proud,
return

dom
selone

I heard

before

He

"

Cuchares

greatest

man

todas

en

inquired of

is

the

tanibien

term

of

"
"

praisewas

lower

"

he

; and

replied;

chares,"
Cu-

some

manded
I de-

?"

bull-fighter

week."

next

class what

he

of

If I

thought
bella,
Isa-

Queen

speak to him of Cuchares,

stinted.
Montes, the hero

but

had
bull-fights,
consequence

is Cuchares

here

expected

"

Puta

Who

is the greatest

Christina, Puta^

contests

acquaintance.

my

?"

Cucha-

"

smoking at a cafe.
succeeded
Montes, and in

has

Spaniard of

Spain, in

is

were

"

"

of

is Cuchares

we

replied,

hundred

of these

quaintances.
ac-

all their prejudices.

Who

there.

is the

"

she,

says

Spain.
a

in

was

thing

I could

as

Cadiz

pretty muchacha

of Juan.

asked

every

fails to

in

be

respects is his superior."

in all

fast

never

hours

would

caballero,as
he

ish
Span-

Espanas?"1

grave

of

him.

Cuchares"

Cuchares,"

lose

from the next

day
Suna week
bull-fight,
questionthat governed all conversation

be

I asked

"

Spanish

making

concede

sensitive

very

grow

I left Cadiz

coincided

and

of

place,and

as

"

sex,

epitome

an

to

care

the

maturity.

each

frequenting

either

ner
cor-

in consequence

before

peculiaritiesimitated

their

"

and

before

life ; and

other

children

I found

Corners

lower

or

habit

them,

girls,and

"

long

I took
to

the

sweetmeats

on

Four

the

at

in the

where

girlsand

the

corrupt their teeth

or

the

of

of

sorts

and

little children

ninas, the

all

drink;

confectioneryshop,
y

sick

of

for all sorts

resort

the
ninos

establishment,where

licores

of

his death

died,just
a

wound
was

before

in

received
lamented

as

tered
enone
na-

149

JirLL-FIGUTS.

; and

his wound
Madrid

had

the

His

portraitwas

and

bookstore

his

at

house, making

Montejo, now
stuck

; and

his

that of

of the

Empress

deeds

after

inquiries

said, was

was

in every

up

time

some

highest nobilityat

the

which, it

; among

de

Countess

lingered for

carriagesof

daily seen

were

of his condition
the

He

calamity.

tional

barber's

French.

shop, cafe,

in every

were

body's

mouth.
It

long

not

was

du

maladie

the

the

natives.
the

apothecary's to

the

vinos

and

chares

in

the

and1 that

The

about

us

I did

great deal

be

to
"

"Wilt

wife ?"

be

to

the

on

married

replied, To
I might say,

this

be

"

"

otta

podrida,

national

the

dance),were

determined

to

qui

who, when

take

thou

heard

get
to

came

the
"

Cuthing
some-

but

"

mind.

de

cosa

JEspana, it

Like

vive.
asked
to

the

rustic

by the clergyman,
be thy wedded
came

on

; at

purpose

pose"
purrate

any

the

institutions

institutions

"exploit"

me

troubled

de toros, and

three

to

deal of sympathy

I will ; I
on

coridas

whether

vast

a
a

from

tionery's
confec-

licores

more

It is true, I got

woman

sure

the

visits cost

vinos

bull-fightbeing eminently

behooved

the

is

had

it

the

grocer's

to

even

These

then

with

night

the

well-bestowed.

money

information, but
"

thence

dulces, cigarettes and

considered
no

grocer's, from

not.

or

each

passed

inquired if they

coming

was

affected

stranger, took

licores,and

y
"

I became

and, being

pays,

violentlythan

before

baile

that

found

(or

I had

nowhere

else.
One
.

tasted
"

day, dining with

for

artichokes."

true

first time

They

gourmand

artichokes
no

the

account

mean,

"

"

are

never

excellent

our

are

in

my

served
them

eats

life
with

in

consul

Cadiz,I

alcochqfas,

some

meats

"

but

your

till afterward.

Our

miserable,sickly,sour, acrid,and
not

to

be

mentioned

in

the

same

of

150

liUI.I.-FIGIITS.

breath.

The
I

cochofa
Indeed
life
before

day

have
I

me

here,

one./fcsta,

introduced

iirst

was

considered

in

thing

every
it

but

since

ever

liked

resembled

that

an

holiday.

that

in

era

Cadiz.

concluded

or

to

If
I

had

all

al-

an

my

life.

Spanish
nothing

CHAPTER

"-U*

MARIA

XERES

"

DOMECQ'S

PEDRO

"

XVI.

ESTABLISHMENT

JOl'RNEV

MR.

REED

opportunity

an

took

We

bay
half
and

had

we

the

this

El

Puerto,

unpretending

Mansanilla

paid

three

and

less

here,

cakseros

is
as

you

that

for

perhaps

to

to

of

what

much

House,
or

the
and

bottle

than

the

have

better,

wine-stores,
the

for

visit, but

New
be

least
he

make

York

shamefully
unconscionable
has

more

for

back

and

Xeres
to

necessary

with

is the

neglect

for

towns

bodegas,

are

not

calesa

will

bought

Astor

pleasant,

Xeres.

at

as

better

contains

Amontillado

some

much

is

three

the

the

fury

its

called,
It

here;

at

when

vents

is

it

found

There

could

we

ones

It

rot

dollars

hired

however,

cents,

potent.

superior

case,

thirty

that

We

choice

very

for

day,

dangerous.

as

of

pleasant

and

storms

one

wine.

of

exportation

Latter

and

about

"

sometimes,

inhabitants.

place,

pices.
aus-

beautiful

Mary

nice

is very

thousand

"

upon

good

the

St.

But

Port,"

the

"

XERES

seized

such

Port

was

with

crossed

sea.

passage

or

twenty

some

It

vexed
the

bay,

under

and

smooth

very

is

place

Maria,

Sa.

passage.

Atlantic

upon

the

de

hour's

an

Xeres,

steamer,

Puerto

El

to

visit

to

view

to

OF

SEVILLE.

TO

proposing

WIJJES

"

bargain

hackmen

or,

rogue

conscience,

lars.
dol-

with

the
either

in

Spaniard,

The

done.

two

of
but

the
less

two

im-

152

MEX

The

pudence.

road

from

its

beauty

for

remarkable
buena

vista, you

which

you

do

have

on

We

last Gothic

the

Roderick,

passed

black

It is unlawful

wool.

and

gardens being

sheep
This

the

corn

is of

to

fresh

loose

run

of the

like

fastened

to

the

plowed
They are

in

this

like
in

the

thwarting

fields ;

forehead

it dies when
with

to

"

the

for one's

will
ain

of

Divine

prayer,

dispensationof
Indeed,

but

abandon

behind

the

were

the

by

beasts.

head;

horns,

Their

"new-fangled

the

chaff,thus

Providence

particularuse

it by
soliciting

Spaniard would

all

frae

corn

but

or

wind

it

sional
occa-

oxen

why shouldn't
Headrigg, opposed

agriculture

and

and
prickly-pear,

or

and

fathers

and

Manse

as

protected

are

because

of the

manner,

old

that

man's

any

neck,

the

vineyards

So

former, renewed

by

ours,

dighting the

send."

hair

grounds.
agriculturalimprovements.

to

is inferior

latter

yoke placed immediately

to

former

the

plants,will last,perhaps, forever.

in a field plowing. The
men

some

whatever

and

gathered in, cattle

cactus

the

of

kingdom.

resembled

gardens

yoked,

wind

that Don

route, white

inclosures.

upon

not

for

of great

this river

inclose

and

vineyards

flowered, while

saw

casionally
oc-

of the

appearance

more

is

great advantage

no

aloe ; the

Cadiz,

olives

banks

wool, while

sole

grain

generallyby hedges
has

of

sheep en

to

the

or

allowed

are

The

the

Groves

of

'

than

as

of

short

with

soon

Bay

the

la

"

lost life and

fleeces, which

lone: white

had

the

King,

flocks

some

latter

the

"

had

is not

point

one

of the

vicinityof

in the

was

at

sight,and

right

Xeres

to

though

"

fine view

the

our

fertility.It

Puerto

readilyforget.

not

refreshed
Gaudalete

El

they?
to

vations
inno-

machines

impiously
by

raising

by human
art, instead
waiting patiently for
Providence

was

pleased

for the

fear

of

starvation,the

every

thing

to

Providence.

154

before

it

able

be

not

longer

taken

\VINK.

the

Greeks

it ! much

overcome

of

house

of the

much

pleased with

much

The

royal

the

thousand
much

arms

Xeres

would

Xeres, which
does
the

whole

reach

But

article.
of
The

What

to

nor

do

what

the

but

it is

best

have

alone

re-

happy

have

So
If

with

nothing
it is with

the

the

pay

know

we

of

acter,
char-

We

name.

constitute

shams

inferior

which

as

as

vineyards

acres.

it ?

five

drink

we

but

any

Sherries

as

of the

mean,
from

wine

old.

year

consumption

houses

not

genuine

greater portion

wine
that

of any
others.

the
has

is forbidden

ship
of two

attained
never

growers

that

ship a

nn

order

by
old ;

year

their wines

age.

For

it is

wine

normal

is received

fore
be-

i. e., till

years,

vintage alone, without

one

If

the

of less than

age

they

from

Wine

in Xeres

reached

understood

wine, I

grown

twenty

of the

matters

are

be sold for

bulk

are

thence

exceed

of

exporters purchase the

they

England

happiness ?

our

usuallywhen
law

and

Cadiz,

its stolen

but

imposition,we

into

Sherry

thousand

seven

of Xeres

Champagne.

of

extent

highestprice for

of the wine

them

themselves.

country

wines

produce
not

so

their casks ; of

on

not

in this

The

that.

had

was

granted

imported

to

than

ported
quantity of Sherry annually ex-

butts, and

as

vine

he

that

and

tion,
extrac-

Seventh

the

name

round

whole

from

be

be

country

own

the

since availed

under

country

our

shipped.

to

Ferdinand

the

Malaga, brought

the

of

greater part of the wines

The

the

yet

likelyto

more

their

their wines

permission to stamp
which
they have ever

often

and

It is of French

scientific treatment

more

previously prevailed.

in

Troy,

largest in Xeres,

is the

Domecq

longest established.
from
they introduced

and

and

before

himself.

The
one

to

than

TUK

fication
quali-

for wine

of

certain

order

that

age,

is tilled

vintages of various
price proposed to be paid. A
Xvine from

meet

to
a

order

an

portion of

wine

of

course

of wines

Sherry,has
of
A

enough

other

among

of

upward
what

they

suckles

call the

would

like

becomes

to

reducing
of

other

rich

acter
char-

widow's

brown

from

butt

after

of

high

of

which

I much

natural
most

often

so

original
I

tasted

affected ;

wines, and

poorer
Pure

color

in

old Sherries

suit the

to

numerous

its

wine.

color ; but

(Samuel

been

different

color.

the

series of years,

plank

enriching

it

contributions

has

that

however,
its

dry by

every

Cockney pretenders,their
chemical
by some
process,

me,

Sherry

of oil

jug

replenished with

wholly

of too

gave

brown

It has not,

vessel

in

kind

was

bodegas,

was

sucked

lost

used

those

the

mother-wine, because

nutty Amontillado,

some

dry wine,

are

It

that indeed

have

build, it

the

be

so

frigate or
as

also

old.

that it is

repaired

drink

we

who

glass of

madre-vino

soon

themselves,
a

ages, what

the

youthful butts.

but
offspring,

from

douches,

qualitiesof

miraculous

expected,

age

follows,then, from

Domecq,

through

century

better

"

possiblepretensionto

house

us

bonnes

many

i.),and

the

attend

to

the

contain

may

seasons

It

wine.

the

to

wine, exported

wine,

many

a,

wine.

of

partner

old

of various

the least

natural

of

exclusivelyof

different

this mixture
as

that

than

cask

as

by preparing

according

years,

fiftyyears

vintages of

the

perhaps

but

for

155

II. I.AUU.

.\Mo\l

is

taste

of

discharged
their delicate

injuriousto

aroma.

The
never

Amontillado

is said

yet explained,and

impossible,some

say,

fermentation, will
The

partner

of the

to

turn

honse

to

be

produced

in

way

perhaps inexplicable. It is
the wine, in
predict whether
out

Amontillado

thought

it

might

Sherry.

or

be

the

re-

156

CUSTOMS.

.SPANISH

of

suit

more

perfectfermentation

; while

it to be the

produce

of

Spanish authority states

grape

the

"

is

origin,there

Palomina.

Whatever

bitter-almond, dry flavor,and

and

cadel

other

its

It has
Mos-

the

of the

some

ticular
par-

be

may

with

mixed

wines, makes

sweet

its excellence.

dispute about

no

noted

est-priced
high-

wines.
Over

the vestibule
I

up, in

posted

saw

office,as

or

"Hoy,

entered

we

painted letters

degas,
Bo-

the

"

fuma.

no

Manama,, si."
"

To-day,

But

that

never

comes

"

"

is

It

mean

is,in the

no

they

too

The

vin

preferred

as

"

inferior

table, we
*'

Guste

bow

to

with

an

in church.

see

Spanish

on

taste.

served

round

once

full bottle

be

At
as

wines,

ners.
din-

supplying many

natural

for their

well

save

much

are

comparative cheapness

as

strength.
to

cafe,I
As

custom.

oracle.

strong for the national

ordinaire, or

returned

at

"

where
seldom

you

glassmay

chasse

or

every

wines

are

the best houses

liqueur

Delphic

the

time, a prohibitionabsolutelyneeded

Sherry

We

fruitful than

more

Spaniard smokes

These
tables

certainly."

to-morrow,

to-morrow"
placard being immovable,
: it is always
hoy" (to-day); so that

permission
for the

here

smoking

no

had

Mr.

saw

usted
the

Port
an

Reed
a

St.

Mary by

dinner

ing
and, dinacquire a Spanish
;

opportunity to
and I were
sittingdown

stranger

comer?"

said

take

Mr.

his

seat

Reed, with

"Gracias, senor,"

stranger.

at

he

at

our

another.
a

polite

replied,

inclination.
equally courteous
My companion
considered
explained that it was
good breeding in
Spain always to offer a part of your meal to any person
you

may

encounter

at

cafe,or

elsewhere, when

you

RIDE

TO

157

BONANZA.

yourselfeating an offer always declined, unless

a
repeated entreaty
urgent and
courtesy never

are

"

on

"

thrown

away

omitted

never

"

From

churlishness.

this

from

save

"

lesson

derived'

slept at Port St. Mary, and at

Vista
overlooks
Alegre, which

called

pulga

that

"

country

disturbed

"

morning I
from

Cadiz

for

the

and

something

He

fe

And

drove

than

two

and

him

with

de caballero
of

him

the

the

wanted

fourteen

seemed

on

to

board

addition,that
unpicaro

he had

he

had

man
gentle-

"

his

him

asked

not

for

; and

supplying
It is

route.

en

peseta

paid

in less

the steamer,

before

putting

my

countenance

this uncontracted

Doubtless, he

more.

rogue

road

I felt satisfied

gente and

mala

safelyover

me

anza
Bon-

engagement.

our

venta

every

del muchacho

carried

fifteen miles

Bonanza

steamer

regret, when

at

promised

of

honor

dollars, besides

at

the

he

we

dollars,

two

which

or

additional

an

steamer

calesa

same

calesero

faithless to

two

aguardente

the

next

conclusive.

was

the

over

in the

ventas

meet

to

the

upon

was

us

the

after breakfast

steamer,

"

course

of

me

paid

luggage

for

the

meet

fonda,
bay. No

besides, if he arrived

hours, arrivingat

he

was

I hired

drink

to

neither

true

for

Seville.

to

which

"

sleep; and
San
Lucar,

in Andalusia.

nice

and

posadas

day before,promising the

in time

do,

the

my

started

had

to

of

curse

or

little

no

while

and, indeed, advantage,

gratification,
We

ignorance

of

boy

noted

somewhat
in

but

"

getting off

so

cheaply.
"

Ye

of his

"

nymphs,"

says

Gonsalve

de

Florian, at the
Cordoue"

bathe

the tresses

of your

of the

Gaudalquiver."

for the incidents

"
"

long hair

If Florian

of his

book

commencement

nymphs,

Ye

in the

had
than

no

who

limpid waters
better

he

had

ity
authorfor

the

15S

TIIK

of this

character

"

The

romance.

with

the

impede

apparently too
relieved

the

in the

The

Arabs

gave

River

hut to

one

it the

and

of the

glow

shores,dull

and

tread

the

to

It

was

the

flow

the

the banks

the

had

"

borne

the

this

"

I knew

the

see

Bonanza

reached

as

gay

"

Seville.

softened

rays
walks

of
on

city. Through

this favorite

menade
pro-

of the

mantillas
shine."

eyes

anchored

near

Our

Torre

Tower.
of the

Frenchman
little

from

of the

gloriousblack
and

Ferdinand, I

the shaded

to

Delicias,"

Alameda,

Golden

the

beauty

battalions

cheek.

we

"

ed,
seem-

current, and

eight hours

attracted

their

San

my

miles

now

armed

and

April, and

las

commissionaire

steamer

though

"

passed

Oro, the

The

of

of the

suffuse

eighty

called,I could

senorinas,and
del

day

last

that line
is

I recollected

had

accelerated

an

of the river the

the trees

them,

to

the
Mississippi,

or

that

Tarik

some

is about

decliningsun

steamer

with

of

voyage

the distance

seemed

as
spiritless
they

gratifiedemotion

After

stern.

"

blood
of

trees

Carthaginian, the Roman, the Vandal,

the Goth, each in the pride of triumph

vibrated

felt my

of the

our

when
Still,

stream

same

All that

"the
"\Vada-l-Kebir,

Missouri

the

Hannibal, of Csesar, of

of

as

banks

the

near

have

absurd.

the

on

Phenician, the

had

The

islets of
river

great it may

appears

was

that these

more

thick

so

of cattle.

made

name

familiar with

the Arab

or

phenomenon

of the

middle

;" and

nomenclature

natural

desert, which

fields

that

met

never

vessel.

pasturage

the

was

scene

and

Great

for the

wet

of the

mirage

seemed

of the

motion

easy

miles

ten

waters

historical

an

Why,

For

stream.

as

low, alluvial flats,monotonously dull,and

tame,

were

/"

waters

Bonanza, the muddy

above
to

limpid

turbid

more

river,it is worthless

"

to

Fonda
my

French, I knew

Europa"

great
less

boarded

content.

Spanish.

For
Be-

Ci

sides my
cautioned
"

Todos

said

and

"

againstthe

glad

was

point of

consider

it

phonse"

ordered

"

some

baggage

class.
he

rogues,"

are

could

who

to

fleece

the

to

hud

same

one

honor

national

the

all

They

find

to

my

of

Sevillians

picaros."

estan

himself, at Cadiz

called

lie

guide," as

me

159.

TSTOM-HOUSE.

"

not

Al-

"

me.

Despacho

the

"

Custom-house.
I had

own

my

examination
had

of the

second

such

escape

eye

invisible.

So

eye

of

the

temporary

my

servant.

three

the

Passing

There

the

was

to

they

to

I tried the
the aduanero

"

and, I

gratifyingresult.
his the

piece of

In

money

hesitation

have

I had

on

off

by

Cadiz

two

my

It

pesetas
this omission

delay at least,

as
on
police-officer

add, with

to

our

unexpectedly,

there

the

on

show

Seville.

at

from

with

my

loud

bystanders.
compromised my

started

the

reported.
Scylla,i. e.

to

Fearing that

dropped

of many

myself.

residences

its passage

floor,in presence

might

expected

happy

am

and

into

inconvenient

experiment

same

ter
lat-

during

carried

was

ran

leaving

to

the

between

seized

been

visit Seville.

might subject me

tween
be-

or
baggage two
there, which
might have

the Policia

pay

law

body

my

were
our

of the

render

crown

latter

we

we

that, on

neglected
permission to

among

put down

me

would

here

hope

portmanteau, and

my

Custom-house

I had
for

and

where
Police-oflice,

occurred

not

could

something

half

placed

obscuration

passports, and

body

aduanero

the

; but

another

trouble, had

me

steamer

of
interposition

It

of put ting

hurry

that the

articles,
carelesslyleft

caused

the

and

the
and

particular

portmanteau.

in the

still I knew

"

I knew

optics.
the

or

of my

contents

general baggage on board

at our
were
journey's end,

we

wishing

not

escaped scrutinyat Bonanza,

the

of

for

reasons

way

the

same

pocket
ring on
moment

to

the
of

official friend

from

the

office,

160

but

CUSTOM-HOUSE.

in

it

picked
the

officer,

he

had

had

and

up,

He

of

sufficiently
it

courteously
such

silver,

the

in

handing

on

it.

dropped

fall

the

hearing

piece.

to

him,
thanked
I

went

immediately
good

that

Spanish
he

must

and

me,
on

ped,
stop-

my

told

have

ed
recollect-

way.

1 f,-J

adopted invisibility.lie

utter

the two

fit to illustrate

seen

creation

in the

snob

"

the

perfectthan
than
The

there

so

is

nothing

wine

the

over

forbid

ton

here, as,

evening promenade

Avalk
and

which

had

I found

the

on

struck

in

able
despic-

from

Avithout

Avith

the

greatest

join

shaded
;

It is

grounds

at

hang
over-

length. They
; the

taste

to

steamer

assistance.

in

in

where

the

These

mile

ation
inclin-

from

one

both

longed
Delicias,"the

Fonda.

our

No

truth, every

fancy

my

Gaudalquiver

decorated

his action

more

which

Las

"

Avay there

my

distance

some

profanely)

over.

custom

"

was

good European society.

I Avas
glad to get through dinner, for
the

it
of

extremes

finished,dinner

courses

and

this irresistible

to

me

at

other.

the

lingered

in

one,

of Bow-

glish
English gentleman and the Enis nothing more
there
nature

of the
while

his first

on

Englishmen, both

with

(not to speak

Almighty

the

conclusion:

snob

travels,has led

in their

and

home

association

My

Mem.

bells.

was

stillAvithin sound

himself

thought

travels,and

has

i'UoMEXAPK.

'I III-:

are

dered
bor-

avenues

Avith
at

orange-trees, and terminating in a garden

This
end, full of costly plants and flowers.

one

Avould

be

shade,

and

I have

reason

the

play Avith

it,and

ian

the

fine

handsome

there, and

equipages,with

Seville bore
seemed

the

more

Cadiz.

doubtless

in tumult.

the

Neasra's

could

Avas

palm

I
of

the

on

cavaliers

sport preother
on

side

Arab-

scene.

formed

But

hair ;" and

of such

great deal

thought nothing

girls of

Avere

tangles of

carriage-roadlies

horses,enlivened

I had
the

sport Avith Amaryllis in the

to

believe

to

A'ailshere.
of

"

place

was

be

than

surprisedinto admiration
an
opinionAvhile my senses
obliged to

beauty.

graceful, more

attractive

more

The

confess

now

that

ladies of Seville

delicate,

more

refined

features,if

their

not

lovely,seemed

more

by intelligence
; and
soul

less

pretension;

"

had

They

so.

their

displayed more

the

]('.:!

AVAY.

OF

LOSS

dress

if less

natural, it

had

walk, too,

apparently more
cealed
perfection of art, and con-

the

reached

reflex of

that

"

Their

taste.

vated
culti-

more

Avas

it.
I Avalked
with

peopled

Avhose

Arabian
time

Seviilians

the

whose

; and

and

studying costumes,
darkness, when

arrived, ignorant
"

put up"

the

city

suburbs
leave

struck

"

Avails

my

accordingly."
shops, to learn
but

from
not

behind.

So

I seemed

to

the

readiness

of

comprehend

entered

liquors

place

the

where

promised
inquired,with some

"

Avere

smoking

person

"Wallack

in Don

cwo.s,"

and

"

left the

to

the

at

Ca3sar

circumstances

at

de

"

which

where
outside

was

of

to

concatenation

stalls,or

tAVo

d'Europa

I received

the

vinos

I could

reply.

Finally, I

licores

wines

sold,and

"

ordering

and
thing,
some-

Fonda.

desperation,for

the

table

looking

up

the

meaning understood,

of

started

neglected

Fonda

ansAvers

Bazan

into

ne\vly

people

or

the

my

be

saAV

one

to

make

word

but

street

had
in

Avas

direction

while

deepened

many
and

"

attempted

the

that

heard

gente"

and
inscriptions,

once.

'"'"mala

purse

"

of the

name

all at

had

"

Avere

the

me

some

language, the place into

of the

and

Avandered,

For

stranger

"

Julius

impressions

twilight had

situation

my

and

Oro,

del
to

citybeyond.

shops,

another

unmistakably

Avith novel

tillI found

"

I had

mind

my

it

was

twilightthe

ascribe

stamps

into the

plunged

of life

the

vainly

architecture

occupied

modes

With

it

as

essayed to return
by
I passed the Torre
entered.

erection

Caesar, but

long

as

and

I had

than

route

Delicias

attractions.

such

left ;

senorinas

fro Las

and

to

near

"

and

me,

in subdued

gentleman
exclaimed,

house, beckoning

me

1o

like

"

Vani-

folloAv,

104

C.KSAU

DON

which

incontinentlydid

him

than

father, JEneas, from

much

eqitis,with
round

merit

of his

indeed

gone

shortened

distance

was

"

the

the

each
in

late conductor

Avould

and

find

never

There
been

it

have

we

of the

delivered
cloak

thought
offend

saw

ca-

was

doubting uncertainty,

inquiredof

"

all

rushed

to

"

necessary

I sent

for

Spaniard by birth, though

and

to

Don

in

No

Gaetano

portunity,
op-

posada
why you
would

nocturnal

The
were

every

Seville,and

retain

of German

have

not

carpets

villainous

seen

on

more.

they

reason

the

carpeted

be

no

dangerous.

blood.

It is

these

him

saw

you

failed to draw

and

caballero"

me,

upon

them.

what

peseta," he replied.

been

not

him

night would

attacked

floors

much

wherefore

as

rest

to

"GrcKiafy

if it had

filled with

was

told
:

I feared

in

the walls

never

the

become

soon

his \vay, and

is safe from

venta

or

with

yente also,who

mala

soon

Caesar

me.

sight,and

he went

comfortable,

"pulyas"

The

Don

upon

other

and

Sleepingoutside
been

I had

then, wrapping his

expected.

two;

dignifiedbow,

the

dignified,
though impoverished appearance,
offer of money.
Fortunately, while we

looking at
Alphonse" hove
him

As

destination.

fonda, and
his eye

either

seeming distance, or

the

accomplished.

soon

He

enhance

to

way,

I felt easier.

walls

were

I gave

the

speculation"in it,but

by

my

by

of

many

lane, turning

coming.

was

his

jxissibus

crossed

many

the

of such

ballero

"

if I

with

way

non

He

steps.

pany
accom-

little Julius

Troy

my

him, fixed

some

of

the

as

far from

safelyat

around

him,

through

me

action

within

Avere

devoured

sack

occasionallyto see
me
purposely out

took

me

the

carried

and

square,

He

I followed

strides ; and

long

it safer to

deeming

"

remain.

to

BAZAX.

DE

guide

rauders.
ma-

I had
or

rone
cice-

Peickler,

parentage.

Ho

looked

had

better

on

himself

support

paintings,terra
in

advanced

heard

never

than

He

his

the

Seville

related

that

class

character

somewhat

man

youth,

generally.

and

Indeed

for

honesty impeached.
well-acquainted with all of

and
intelligent,

was

etc. ;

the

to

past

the

or

He

present.

presentable man, and a companionable withal

dined with
me
often,and accompanied me
on
sions.
excur-

was

Without

I had

him

to

traffickingin

sympathetic with

but

trustworthy

more

obliged

now

was

and
profession,

images,

cotta

age,

but

days,

this

by

165

PEICKLEK.

GAKTAXO

lost much

"

of Seville,living
O

dead.

and

only

have

from

Seville

Cadiz.

Cuchares
before

he

phonse

said

I must

there

the

best

Duchess

me

engage

visited

skeleton

but

It would

cle,
mus-

else

and

"

prevented

ever

toros
a

lose

had

boletin de

to

been

for

shaded

seat

see

every

Ala

them,

taken.

He

at

buying

introduced.

sombra,

I could

Cadiz!

The

preside, and

to

was

left

appear

in

demand

pected
ex-

some

would
in the

thing, and

be

Royal Highness.

have

missed

the

Cadiz.

bull-fightin

sadly provincial.There is very

little of the sangre
diz
azul, the genuine blue blood, in Ca; societyis consequently snobbish, parvenu-ish,and
much

before
much

have

such

be

would

moment

the

I had

than

picaros of

already

to

were

of Her

box

! Cuchares

was

never

seats

glad

was

and

agitatedwith

more

those

not

balcony, where
the

here

Montpensier

of

magnificent

near

blood,

coming Sunday

the

was

Seville

ticket,as

yet

even

of
bull-fight

stone

been

would

intruding or boring.

I found

and

had

him

great delicacyof feeling that

had

him

what

what

coloring to

without

outline

to
life,

the

me

gave

been

and
he

He

to

be
such

been

avoided.

The

spectators.

before,

gained

bulls

All
from

do
this
a

not

like to

appear

information, and
fair

Sevillian

who

1UO

i'OIi

TICKETS

THE

15UI.K-FK.iiri
.

claimed

related

be

to

if small

; and

Sidonia

Byron contends, the

If the

The

frenzy.

last

shirt
(and first)

makes

them

It is

be,

ears

nobility,I

in

Cadiz, here it

the

spectacle;

girlswith

the

This

know

origin.

class will part with

"

Lord

as

don't

aristocratic

more

indeed.

poor

of

reaches

thing

every
with

men

their

Avhat, being lost,

is not

exaggeration.

dailyexperience.

This

promised
but

the

of

mania

the

to

house

and

test
a

lower

admission

gain

to

true

be
bull-tight

ducal

hands

boasted

have

could

who

the

to

be

to

It

should

had

been

non-appearance
detained

than

more

have

ordinary

an

off

come

in

postponed
of

Cuchares,

at

Madrid.

tainment.
enter-

fore,
fortnight be-

of

consequence
had

who

Fresher

been
and

avoidably
un-

fiercer

procured,and the sister of the queen,

the
Duchess
of Montpensier, had
graciously been
to preside. All
pleased to signifyher consent
along
I entered
at Lisbon, before
Spain,I
route, indeed
my
had
fallen in
had
heard
of this projectedfiesta,and
bulls

had

with

far-away strangers

fondas

full,and

were

procured

to

find

escort.

setiorina

one

cafes

Seville.

to

way

crowded

from

cheaper

"

her

near

very

The
ing
morn-

than

ness
Royal High-

And
opera-ticket.

an

companion ; some
I might sympathize.
excitability
the most
deemed
impressionable,and

whose

the

each

all I wanted

now

me

the

nice seats

two

for $1.25

sex

their

on

night.

to

been

middle

of them

one

Les
so

I looked

class.

the

would

forbade
for

out

I did

bonita

but
y

wish

not

position;

muchaca

preceding

who

convenances

of doubtful

girl,una

was

softer

it behooved
me

as

hope

to

muchaoa

"

married

an

for

girl of

lady, nor

genteel
pretty, lively,

quapita.

important day

The

accept
me

with

one

On

I succeeded.

the

evening

THE

I had

in the

do

addressed

never

his order

as

attending

any

national

joins.
en-

in

mass

prejudices,I
the

church

wandered

nor

one,

careful
Particularly

acquaintanceinside

any

recognized

even

never

of

the

to

acquaintanceof

poor

officiated.

he

offensive

nothing

as

daily habit

the

where

cathedral

the
to

in

was

the

seemed

friar,who

Franciscan

made

time

mean

167

VKIAK.

"

listlessly

always joined the worshipers at the altar,

kneelingwhen they knelt, and prostratingmyself with
about

; but

them,
no

enunciation

the

on

indeed

one

of

enter

can

awful

the

Catholic

church,

in its services,and
music, participate
devotion.

without

meaning,

through it,the heart, is

affected.
the

shadowy
the

awakens

the

him

do

we

as

friar

on

was

on

tardes, hijo
"

Espanol?"
I

speak Spanish ?"

few

Saturday evening

On

words.

language
He
an

said,from

asked

it well

for
to

at

kind

had

him.

he,

evening, my
I could

I understood

of

great

ease

composite
; to

which

supposed so,

mass

Catholic,in

leave

said

with

me

He

often

so

Good

outside,

point of

mio"

Christiana

was

answer.

seeing me
me

if I

the

learningthat

replied in

me

affirmative

he took

thought

; I

the

repliedthat

little better, he addressed

tongue.

the

obeisance

J3uenas

"

that

I gave

deep

you

speak but
in

I encountered

itsted hablar

"puede

French

heart, and

our

cathedral

the

leaving

was

made

in

echoes

in adoration.

passingN

son

the

sympathetic

after vespers,
and

rolls down

anthem

gorgeous

nently
perma-

along the vaulted roof,

decorated
pinnacles, and sighs
and
statues
fading canopies, it

mutilated

fall down
As

the

not

arches, sweeps

around

trembles

amid

When

ment,
religioussenti-

the

deeply, if

is

their

imagination, and,

; and

mankind,

all

to

common

its

listen to

understand

The

moved

For

mystery.

which

; whence

he
ferred
in-

apprehension

168

HIS

He

which,

well

as

and

mass,
other

this world

they

nor

conduce

as
still,

hombre

un

then

told me,

and

in

family,and

I
Seville,

knew

my

things eternal

with

good

left them

smile.

to

good

doubtless

was

He

turn."

family of

mother

portrait-painter

had

but
yet living,

had

to

one

professionis not of
thingsworldly, save
self),
(here he crossed hima

to

with

no

pleased

you

father

The

them

Catholic, and

confessor

Avas

was

"

share

was

for the

seats

lady to

to

he

by profession
his

procured two

I meddle

daughters.

two

tend
certainlyat-

although

said,

most

bien, I will do

de

; at

I should

father

are

forenoon

Montpensier,

do

you

advised

of

had

reverend
"

and

Duchess

wanted

son," said he,

My

him

unacquainted

The

in the

mass

the

that
and

that

invite.

as

told

ceremony,

; but

me

assist.

would

day,

next

bull-fightafterward, he

the

at

as

Highness,

Royal

her

the
bull-fight

it,after high

attend

to

me

"

of the

spoke

KIXDXESS.

run

from

aAvay

in embarrassed

stances.
circum-

The
eke

out

girlsembroidered, and endeavored

livelihood
by such occupation. They

gente bien nacida

well-born,and

"

both

genteel,particularlythe youngest,
old.

years

me

I gave
poor

He

as

him

would

friend

day (Sunday)

he

Then, directingme

spot after

mass,

he

to

meet

mass.

for the

benignant
him

and
blessing,

his

me

gave

with

duce
intro-

after

something

received

and

only fifteen

was

house, and

thanks, and

were

girlspretty

who
the

to

me

next

order, which

countenance.
same

the

sincerest

my

of his

take

to

on

the
went

his way.

What

is it that

"Between

No

And

the

Like

acting of

the

poet says ?

the

acting of

first

motion,

phantasma
a

dreadful

or

dreadful

all the
a

interim

hideous

thing

thing

was

is

dream.'1

threatened

next

XVIII.

CHAPTER

THE

HIGH

MASS"

day

so

THE

anxiously

and

atmosphere,

propitious.At
pillarof

the

had

Church

of

of

bull-fight.He

had

in

whether

determining
condemned
on

having
demand
run

they
the
such
that

in

did in the

if he
he

from

sense

was

thought

he

incur

I entered

other,

him

well-

morning

the

our

approaching

duty

His

stay away.

or

could

day

he

such

"

As

sire
de-

he owed

Spain, that

to

cam

least, they
to

in

attending,he
the

not

Beg,
aboon
not

were

England,

and

gratification

more

himself.

to

did

Callum

seldom

derive

among

seemed

eye

be

out
with-

England

Sundays

that

accustomed
should

Sabbath.

spectacle

his

Sunday
At

the

to

according

sin in

of

return

him

told
than

he

of

tion.
posi-

some

of each

; this

desecration

Highlands

would

worthy

tions
attend, his religiousconvic-

to

could

more

as

seemed

I found

was

go

Bally-Brough."

Sundays

than

when

of

to

of

vicar

course

?
bull-fight

seen

Spain, no

Pass

how

opinion,I

my

England,

to

him

other

and

commanded,

I sat next

pure

felt,he said, the greatest difficulty

such
no

with

thing

every

conversation

ardently urged
then

and

sun,

of
intelligent,

and

for came,

acquaintance.

an

up

principal topic

But

looked

BULL-FIGHT.

"

previous knowledge

any

struck

educated

bright

DOLORES

the breakfast-table

Without
we

CATHEDRAL"

ought

I did
novel

not

to

go,

think,

situations

in which
advise

of the

Vicar

be

If my

thing

in my

he seemed

so, for he

think
said

with

customary

"

doing,
to

he would

splendor,as

the

do

any

response

be

my

performed
Duke

in

and

He

plied
re-

witnessing

I should
in approving, by
bull-fight.I know
Here
this superstitiousceremony."
presence,
this

of

another

clergyman

angular prejudicesrounded

my

of

of his office in

Christian

church

witnessingthe

risks the

my
was

off!

degradation

of beasts

massacre

and

attend

present.

wrong

to

were

so

it would

I may

ness.
green-

determined

no

be

ceases

former

in

presumed

would

Montpensier

Certainly not.

I understood

than
of

that

made

gious
his reli-

one

if there

doubt

justifyhim

to

suggestions. I
High Mass, that
Duchess

of travel

to

upon

to

as

any

argument
to

more

England

years

I
bull-fight,

the

at"

some

called

be

thing save his own

apostolicfriend had not

surprizedat

"assist

should
of

Church

after

But

duties.
to

placed, I

be

might

171

CLERGYMAN.

ENGLISH

THE

the

on

objectsto participatein prayers

the pale
and
religiousservices,which, being without
! Alas !
of his own
Church, are necessarilysuperstitious
that this self-conceit should be the besetting sin of so
Sabbath

for its

and

is

largest in
feet

thirtyone

it is

one

of black

Cano, and

Leal,by

nearly as

white

and

and

courts

of the

Juan

three

length by
Its center

nave

at

seventy-one
checkered

Martinez

the
feet.

marble

Montanes,

sculptors; paintingsby Juan

greater rival,MURILLO, and artists

other

his

eminent

and

hundred

magnificent. Carvings by

Valdes

in

kingdom, being

forty-fivefeet high, while

and

pavement

Alonzo

the

fifteen feet in breadth.

hundred

transept dome
The

eminent

most
religiousinstitution,

is the

and

hundred

one

piety,its eloquence, and learning.

hundred
is

of

cathedral

The

he

while

members

many

four

day,

decorate
cathedral.

transepts,the chapels,
As I entered, the enor-

the

172

DUKE

MONTPEXS1EB.

DE

givingforth their volumes of solemn

organs were
tones of the largest,
with
music,and the deep-swelling
raous

its five thousand

stops,made
Seville

was

three hundred

themselves

heard

pipesand
above

\incounted

all sounds.

All

the beggar
present; royaltyand nobility,

sinner,the virtuous and the frailwoman

devout.
all there,and all seemingequally
and the

were

Royal Highness were

separatedfrom
as if there might be
a royalroad
ordinaryChristians,
to heaven, though there be not to geometry.
They
inclosure
much
or
larger
occupiedan apartment
very
than a box at the opera, handsomelydecorated,
and
facingthe altar and the spectators,so that their genuflections
His and

Her

and their
imitated.

had

He

signsof the

cross

might be

strong motives

and

seen

for devotion

his

which had done more

than
marriagewith the infante,
his father (LouisPhilippe)
anything else to precipitate
from the throne and to drive his familyout of France,
nice littlesnuggery here in Spain;
looked not unlike a
nice little wife withal,who

had secured him

a

daughterof the
and

the

late Judge "W

of New

Hampshire,
I was
intent upon
glad to see that he was earnestly
conscious of the great obligaas if he was
service,
tions
he

under

was

to his

Maker.

Mass

having been performed,I lost no time in

attendingthe rendezvous of the friar; nor did he
he
keep me waitinglong. He had seen the ladies,
The mother
had
said,and they were
expectingus.
at firstrefused her daughters'
companionshipto me ;
but
a

on

his

guaranty that I

friend to the

Faith,she

Spanishlanguageis
full of

he

course, I knew

**

had

fertile in

and
"ponderapion,"

when

spoke
he

was

"

was

of the

our

hombre

de

bienf and

consented.
The
finally
is
extravagant phrases,
self
friar did not stint him-

of success.
difficulty

speakingfor

"

the poor

Of
of his

order," and
him

when

made

he

pesetas, which

some

end

an

he

73

DOLORES.

of

talking,I

without

bagged

gave

attempt

an

unconsciousness.

at

We

arrived

soon

at

destination

our

far from

looking stone-house, not

On

the

ancient

ringingthe bell,and givingthe

our

small but neat-

"

usual

"gente depaz," literally

"peaceful persons"
unfastened
from

within

the

second

entered.

could

the Moorish

had

have

been

It is not

the
with

company

in their
few

for

at

me

leave
I

been

received

o'clock

of the

ladies

at Dolores's

She

friar

good

unable

few

to

to

my

sistance,
as-

ready

ious
ceremon-

behind.

crime

to

have

before

dressed, and

was

verse
con-

the

be

the

minutes

in

be

exhausted

remaining
care

never

to

summon

guiltyof

The

kisses.

the world
be

we

that

thing but

after I had

the

"

door

hand

promise to
afternoon,I took

I took

lady wait, and

hour.

pretty.

able to

that

door,

very

Dolores's

was
intentionally

never
a

had

had

the

"

hinges, and

and

for any

; and

"

its

pretty girls and

two

answer

string(generally
pulled

pleasantestthing in
language

two

eye,

intended

expressions I
and

of

means

turned
on
floor),
girlswere
pretty,

The

youngest

by

Alameda.

of making
riage
car-

my
the

looking

pointed
ap-

radiant

with

expectation. Her mantilla,fan and gloves were

all perfect,and her tiny feet, like little mice, stole in*
and out, as if they feared
the light." Her
eyelashes,
the eyes, making them
long and heavy, half-concealed
"

appear

like

in
Cupid's artillery
felt myself going.

whole, I
In the
better
sister.
as

carriage,with

than

I got rid

I found

all my

easier

when

with

company

to

without

speak Spanish

Upon

I got
tete-a-tete,

gradually of

she seemed

Spanish
to

in

her

ambuscade.

my

understand
fear
than

her

along

of ridicule.

French,

much

mother

and

honte, and

mauvaise
me,

the

poured

out

It is much

because

in the

174

PLAZA

former

syllableis pronounced, while

language every

the latter many

for

terminating syllableseems

other

no

I addressed

TOEOS.

DE

"

her

than

purpose

hija mia"

as

expressionnot unpleasant to the

and said some
pretty things,which made
flush ; for in Spain young
girlslike to be
beautiful.
de

Toros

So that
we

Although
time

that

in the

that for the

got in before
Such

Fifteen
within

sea

balcony

of the

African

the
; and

of his attire.
Andalusia

of
whose

the waUs

gitano ;

are

Plaza

before

of the
crowd

was

the

at

the

ance,
performentrance

with
for

entrance

fortunatelynot the
might not
seats, or we
beheld

never

by

were

in

same

have

Moor

the

Seville

majo

He

is the

in

Spanish

bull-fighters
; the

in

all the

extravagance

; the

swell

tauromachia
of the

gospel

careless

thick-lipped

the

shade
the tur-

saw

of the

fixed stare

European

connoisseur

computation
of every

"

; the

inclosure.

one

accurate

fair-haired

jokes,even

at the

hour

an

amphitheater
varietyof costume.

every

the

they

performance.

of heads

Jbanedand dusky

and

and
greatest difficulty

uncovered

persons

and

the

the

thousand

of color

smile

told

got through. The

we

the

place

was

with

loss of time

the seats

her

"

ship
quitea pleasantrelation-

commencement

dense

only

was

the

for the

and

vast

it

much

as

reached

we

muchachas

arrived

we

tionate
affec-

an

other.

each

appointed
so

established

had

between

the time

by

tained
re-

tion.
decora-

child ;

my

"

be

to

caudal

in

b'hoy
;

"

the

of
timate
in-

aficion/"

when

must
not be resented,
practical,
and whose
decisions,
though contradictory,must never
be questioned. I gained much
salAndahtya, as pungent

if not
with
"

the

as

the

delicate
Seville

noble

and

salt,"from

my

majofino,
"well-boiled"
majo

and

as

"Attic

majo

; the

"

as

intercourse
muy

cocido,

contra-distin-

VAST

the crudos

guished from

There

is

multitude

MAJO

against its

seem

worth

restrain

to

looked

around

its

under

knife,I felt how

their

insecure

feel conscious
a

of its

that

cloaks
a

me,

many

the

barrier

own

vast

dividual
in-

saw

so

seemingly
sands
of the thou-

Catalonian

usual

law,

power

occasion,

and

and

dark

me,

that

this

On

fury.

purchase ;

moment's

beneath

and

eyes

carried

aspect of

ignorance

upturned toward
not
threatening,and doubted
many

Malaga.

and

in the

we

rage

sadly provincial

SEVILLE.

OP

times, nothing but

at

would

when

not

were

and

raw

something fearful

life

and,

the

"

Cadiz, Xeres,

majos of such places as

THE

175

CROWD.

or

even

the

176

CORRIDA

TOROS.

DE

soldiery present, would

armed

The

hostile determination.

heads, as they moved

of what

me
ocean

fro in incessant

sailors call the

swell

of the

cause,

which

ever

to a foreignerunaccustomed
coming tempest. And
their habits, and
to
unacquainted with
language, the vociferation,the shouting, the

portends
their

gestures of the crowd

vehement
Nor

I beheld

when

multitude, seize hold

him

out, did

learned

the

more

de

cosa

entered

their

the

rushes

bull

enthusiastic

out

with

and

the

The
armor

from

Don
vast

that
be

arrival

our

loge,opposite

of the

entrance

and

his den
from

Carlos.

But

multitude

crowd

hush!

horses

such

horseback, and
arena

why

pampered jades of Asia, which

have
been
thirtymiles a day," would

no

around

! Rosinante

and

cased

ancient
can

not

Arabian

Bucephalus

spavined, with

one

eye

by

than

been

had

Another

the

multitude

exhibited

blast from

to

with

in

ungainly-

"

Pistol's
go

but

steeds

! lean

and

bandaged

leg sound, they tottered rather than

the
lists.
However, their appearance

greeted

the

sounds,

trumpet

"hollow

limping,spare

very

is silent.

leather,

them

which

Xo

arena.

the

to

the performance

as

soon

was

Spanish loyaltywent

enter

compared

it

accompanied

of stuffed

and

another.

royal highnesses

on

"

right.

picadors,mounted

looking beings

forciblycarry

door, through

sister.

queen's

as

into the

the

amid

rush

nothing ;

their

the

ing.
assur-

particularlywhen

all would

vivas

and

man

it meant

me

Espana,

after

hour

of soldiers

courage

told

commenced
An

all

at

ejected had just stabbed

so

person
Dolores

However,
merely

I feel

of

not

were

body

the

and

minded
action, re-

ground

visible

agitationwithout

an

of their compact

swaying

and

to

interposeagainst their

trotted
was

greater enthusiasm

the infanta.

the trumpet,

and

the

tauridors,

178

THE

Another

picador

again

rushes
He

success.

falls with

"My

"

little

where

were

Bravo

"

"

him.

his rider under

dear

with

Bravo

! toro," shouted
I said

friend,"

clamorous, became

suddenly

the
have

bull

tauridor

flew

blow.

The

the

by
of

from

the

whole

crowd.

and

armor,

The

fallen

and

hastilypassed

and, perhaps,

out
over

steed is allowed

gurgling
The

out

skillful
into

the

meditated
is

consummate

retreat

repeated

from

beneath
barrier

intoxicated

bravos

by
his

full

are

picador,saved

heavy

(for the

encounters)

these

unaided.
uncared

this

dying

his

condition

to remain

would

The

venting
pre-

boweled
disem-

for,his

blood

and clottingthe sand.

respiration
the useless pursuit of the
relinquishing
of whom,
however, he had compelled

at .every

bull,now

tauridors,most

and

the

upon

and

the

band, whose

picadors drink deeply before

his extricating
himself

his

intensely

assailant,and

new

elicit loud

timely diversion,is puUed

horse

his

agnate aggressionand

excitement,

to

moment

scarf

frustrated

attacks

the

his

to

nent
immi-

in

and

daring

shook

rescue,

bull, and

animal

encountered
evolutions

the

to

of

eyes

very

life-blood,when

be

it best

was

his

let out

you

hardly

would

rushing with avenging horns

instant
prostrate picador,and in another

still. The

of

"if

myself;

to

picador is,you

that poor

Dolores.

even

"

so

better

! toro," shout

I thought
But
shouting, Bravo, toro."
The
now
picador was
say nothing to her.
but
peril of his life. The multitude
before

tail,and

helplesshorse, breaking through

The
steed
and rips up its body.

spear,

the multitude

this time

and

"

his

The

the

gores

opposed

with

his sides

his foe

upon

against him.

advances

now

plants himself,lashes

bull

the

BULL.

third rush at an
a
overleap the barrier,made
picador, who, by a dexterous
management

horse, escaped unharmed.

Not

so

the

posing
op-

of

bull ; he had

179

BANDERILLOS.

exposed

flank

thereon
The

and

loud

and

the

feet

two

with

lists ; armed

with

darts

long, and

decorated

inconceivable
and

darts

the

the arena,

and

even

the

joyous

barrier

shouts

all

of

at

would

but

alas ! habit

and

the

only

was

one

of

turn

royal

box

obtain

And
but
with

better

as

bay, his

or

from

education

black

out

fury ;

of the
could

fault

the barrier
Homer

of

indurated

read

her

in her

mutilated

that

Saracenic

feelings,

countenance,
even

nurses

in the

they might

animal.

satisfythe

into the

hope

sickening spectacle;

of their

death

tongue

foam.

their little charges that

view

while

bellowing.

swollen

with

in the

the

had

I could

flourish

as, old

rage

he bounded

his

whitened

companion

head

nothing

another

loud

her

immediate

springs over

at

joyfulanticipation. The

now

the

fair

emotion

held

of

they

with

leaps

drown

mob

his mouth

my

she

ignited as
roared

had

Some

picadors.

which

ferent
dif-

ghastly wounds, with the darts

with the blood
spirtingfrom his

him, and

out, and

I looked

mal,
panting ani-

now

in his tempestuous

he finally
stood
nostrils,

hanging

the

convulsive

the

with

over

still goading

even

fireworks

short

rushed

rushing at tauridor, picador,banderillo,

at the

Covered

the

persecuted beast, who

With

agony.

over

!"

about

were

pointed darts into

where
perhaps he

from

wounds

contained

penetrated

which

flowers, they

upon
their

dexterously stuck

already received

and

with

swiftness

parts of his body

these

ceived
re-

high flourishes of
half a dozen
gayly-dressed,
sinewy, active
close-fitting
jacketsand breeches,leaped

with

within

and

Banderillos, banderillos

amid

some

persons,

"

shouted

straightway,

music,

picador,

time, tired of this part of the

this

by

performances,

of the

spear

perilouswound.

crowd

the

to

excited
victim

noble

music,

arena.

tells us, the God

crowd
; and

Cuchares

shout

of War

arose

gave

1 80

CUCHA.KES.

!" issued

chares, Cuchares
simultaneous

from

solicited

ground,
took

now

and

whirling

ly
immediate-

crisis of

the

round
it

infuriate
the

"

was

no

sound

audible

of the whole

left hand

before

the

antagonist.The
and

to

feints ; tillthe

seized

the

nostrils
a

and

moment,

shouts, and

feet

There

; the breath

the

on

event.

otherwise

armed

too

unguarded

moment

blood

The

mouth
he

fell amid

died

on

the blow

in his

the

ground, when
neck

vast

out

the

the

thrust

the
upon

den
sud-

him,

Cuchares
blade

two

mingles with

after
and

sand.

artistic

upon

in streams

vehement

touching

of

by
of

rushing

bull ; and

the

the

teasing,worrying,
series

of

to

gushed

of the

by

act

the

near

face

the

continued

in the

length just where

spine.

few

incensed,rushed

bull

the

animal,

before

avoided

side,and

one

his head

thirds its
the

matador

exhausting

lowered

was

straighttwo-edged sword, holding

red.
He commenced
scarf of glittering

by shaking this
animal, who, thereby still more
spring

multitude

bull,no

final contest

his

this

of attack.

appeared suspended

stood

with

within

moment

in that vast

crowd

Cuchares
than

motionless

other, watching the

beast.

fight. Here
superior skill ferocity,

encountered

stood
life,

for

struggle

his

violently

nerve.
agility; and ungoverned rage, courageous
and
beast, as if both conscious
Awhile, man

of each

smile

or

his hat

the

approached

place

superior strength

in

the infanta

course,

rapid gyrations,threw

of

number

the

And

his feet ; and

to

sprang

on

bow

Cuchares

graciouslypleasedto grant.
in

throats

he

animal, which, of

kill the

to

head

by

Cu-

"

tion,
approached the infanta's staknee, respectfully
bending gracefullyon one
afterward
explained to me) per(so Dolores
mission

and

was

thousand

ten

Acknowledging

cry.

flatteringclamor,

the

quit the plainof Troy.

he

wounded,

forth, when

from

the

staggering
prolonged
The

victor

OF

DEATH

the

richlymerited
achieved

rarelyby
the

accomplished

an

vigorous

mind.

Much

first thrust.

the

on

form

to
a

bull

These, with
Montes

he

success,

is

attempted

and

tended
at-

of

required
courage,
active

ever

an

long experience,are

had

death

Dauntless

eye, and

possessed them

he

attempt,

indeed

matador.

accurate

an

arm,

in the

instantaneous

the

"

; for

received

dangerous

success

181

BULL.

he

applause

feat most

THE

sential.
absolutelyes-

all ; but

rash

from

tinued
con-

perils,and

unnecessary

forfeited life.
The
and

matador

then,

wiped
the

to

music,

him.
he

feared

allies would

their

ious
uproar-

the

to

his head

royal

low, while

fell,shower-like,upon

claim

their

royal highnesses

phrases,retired
decorated

the

from

with

the lists.

flowers

in

Then

in the

carne

ribbons, and

and

make

of the

galloped outside
was

immediately

such

base

while

horse, and

sewing

"

while

open
the

illeros took

huge

their

or

torn

through
the

arena,

the

Dolores

iip

pitch

Seville

the
a

into

chered
but-

his

carcass
"

butchers.

To

come."

removing

those

drafts

that

the

had

of

slaughtered
only been partially

aguardiente, and

garments,

smoke

of

unlimited

blessing; and
Now

the

another
bander-

repaired
about

glided

men

sellingrefreshments..

it.

by
"

thrown, and

(that they might serve

picadors,and tauridors,and

seats

iced-lemonade

the

were

soiled

and

to

car,

drawn

amphitheater, where

we

they

ripped
turn)

sold

must

uses

Now,

Spanish holiday," was

if

portion ; and
usual
Spanish

mules, gayly caparisoned ; into this, the animal

to

foe,

gathered together in great haste, as

he

his

thanking

Napoleons

and

These

and

amphitheater, advanced

seat, where, uncovered, he bowed

pesetas, duros

his prostrate

upon

of martial

air

of the

shouts

his blade

was

The

dust

made

tobacco

glad

senorinas

of

to

and

see
mu-

182

BULL.

COWARDLY

chachas

moved

their fans and

of the

first renders

for

superfluous;
their fans

to

others

it, they repel with

with
denial

it ;

with

with
But

short

As

flirtations.

or

curtain

time, however,

lingers,so

hi

and

After

arena.

another

made

receive

to

round

bewildered

one

him, he

barrier.

the

allowed

bull

ments
refresh-

the
and

ought

drophisses

hurry

to

up

and

matadors

resumed

bull

bounded

into

tail,and

of

storm

the

preparations

at the

stare

ally
emphatic-

to

when

fairlyturned

Such

kiss

and

strings."

cat-calls,groans

now,

positions; and

their

It is

theater

lavished,as if the
liberally
The
be killed.
picadors

were

it.

was

invite

assignationor

of many

instrument

an

expression

coquette

with

way)

quence
elo-

almost

They

an

smile, frown, weep,

"

them

much

give as

it ; make

(though I preferanother

latter

their tongues.

to

the

though

"

of the

that

ladies

Spanish

as

tongues

trotted

jeers,hisses,and

assailed him, but that his hide

damnatory ejaculations
ated
was
proof against them, he had been instantlyannihil"

No

"

Vaurien," said

down-east

ros

/"

shouted

Dolores.

"

the

lower

Per-ros

said
'

to

my

Per-ros

ros
'

/"

des

And
no

French

f"1

ever

"

repliedhe,

not
"

veut

chiensj is it ?
I continued

So

appear

as

nor,

it is
"

had

while

dramatis

we

we

not
was

personce.

are

tell me,"
all

are

"

been

shouting,
"

idea."
Oh

Per-

! it is

crying for."

! per-ros

Per-ros

They

you

ckiens"

dogs

cried

individual,to the

remote

most

dire des

bawl,

to

"per-ros" came.

the

! per-

/"

Per-ros

Can

"

neighbor, why

I have

entertainment;

"

now

"Per-ros

in this

greatest danger of his lungs.

And

me.

yet heard.

/" chimed

is n't worth

voice, with

near

orders.

in front.

sat

He

"

from

intonation,somewhere
cry I had

who

Dolores.

n," issued

the wildest

arose

Frenchman

nada," exclaimed

vale

Continental

But

/"

invited

to

the

Spain, did they

They are only introin

BULL

duced

as

refuses
the

dernier

OF

when

resort

183

NERVE.

the

bull

fightthe stock-company.

to

from

bull,finding escape

finallytook

heart

the

of grace

On

lists

this

occasion,

impossible,

was

showed

and

obstinately

fight,but

was

easilydispatched.
The

third

consecutive

of different

was

attacks

entrance, and
first horse
his rider

his

he

the

barrier, when

instantlyexpired.
wound

in

force

upon

the

flank;

if it

to

the

barrier.

on

the

outside

were

The

picador

pullinghim

badly bruised,however,
the horns

of the

the

to

and

one

yo\i

for

fly,as
the

laid down

have

might

thrown

open

Picadors

and

hero

two
"

all the
and

by

into the

matadors
were

bull

sympathies

overcome.

is the

of the

by

avoided

the

bull

was

du

hero

of
"

was

barrier

aisle,girds

side,and

one

the

high, opening
one

of

which,

driven
the

three

hors

crowd

on

the

bull, when
the

path, or

attacked

killed and

fully,
dread-

which, indeed,

through

the

his

ging
drag-

moaning

five feet

again

picadores placed

for the

arena,

so

make

his bowels

spectators nearest

other, some

rider

saddle

matadors

followed

the barrier

of the

horse, escapingfrom

arena,

seats.

main

his friends

to

the barrier ; in

for the purpose,

after four horses

unable

The

die.

the

the

on

doors

many

and

to

life,to higher

seats

with

the

across

seen

defended
lists,

raised

be

slight

and

by
the

bull, staggered,with

ground,

and

with

horse

from

The

day.

by springing over
instance
they were

contest

in

that

again

appearance

carry

lance

saved

was

to

as

with

the

nailed

over

but

rushed

bull

reed, and

his
The

dropped down,

third, bearing back

the

picador,is

could

escaped

the

but

he

he

second

The

three

amphitheater.

that

badly

so

made

on
picadorsinstantly

filled the

roars

gored

to

three

upon

He

mettle.

others

back.

bull ; and

disabled,

combat, the noble

the

fight,and

wins

exhausted
finally

184

SUMMARY.

There
bulls

eight

half

but
To

useless

but

the

of

the

captivating,

found

attend
wherever

life

after

it

as

so

todas

las

holden.

nor

one

ever,

corridas

and

much

to

repulsive.

while
de

the

are

and

toros,

all

the

senses.

brilliant

becomes
At
did

Spam,

the

excitement

born.

manor

in

so

varied

sojotirner

The

while

sickens

the
the

spectacle,

admiration,

animals

awhile

and

seemed

this

entertainment

so

day,

crowd

the

that

no

the

the
is

there

interested

confessed

gams

this

escaped.

disgusting

of
of

that

throughout,
deeply

is

torture

accessories

of

men

be

time,

exposure

Still

the

all

as

first

killed

expectations

it must

stranger,

premeditated

and

the

gratified,

for

seen

horses

twenty-two

were

as

least
fail

to

bull-fights,

186

Las

Delicias

they

the

THE

OF

STUDY

LANGUAGE.

coming evening

after

siesta,to which

assented.

DOLORES

KNEELING

IN

CHURCH.

phrase-book,dictionary,Gil Bias, and

lessons daily,
I was
two
me
soon
teacher, who
gave
in the Spanish language.
making great progress
With

frequented
resorts

sound

into

the

cafes,the

nightly,that
of the

words:

theaters, and

might

accustom

and, reckless

of

other

popular

myself to the
ridicule,I plunged

conversation, floundering through

it the

best

THE

could.

Every

one

187

ALCAZAR.

civil,and

was

I tried to think

affected

to

understand

Spanish,and avoided as much

I could
as
English society. By this means, within a
arrival in Spain, I could
of my
few weeks
not
only
make
stand
to others, but
easilyundermyself intelligible
when
them
speaking slow. In acquiringso much
of great advantage
was
knowledge of the language, Dolores
The
to me.
words, interpretedby a smile or
expressivelook, carried their meaning directlyto the
so
prettily
comprehension. She corrected my errors
me.

in

made

that I sometimes

worth

walking dictionaryis
the world

the

best

of the

It stands

Roman

praator,Alcazar

of Csesar.

Abderahman

Ledin-Allah

after
was

burying

the

dead.

each
The

surmounted
doors
too

has

delicate
overcoat

The

same

Pedro

of the

mansion

to

rebuilt

was

time

in

Gothic

tracery and
of the
more

title within
the Cruel

his occupancy
the

Conde

by

his

vestibule

Moorish.

of his

are

Prince

the

tury,
centality
mor-

of

the

tecture.
its archi-

Roman,
of the

many
The

Spaniard

obliterated

the

predecessorby

an

and

sway,

gilding
!

Embassadors

magnificent
the

(la

the tenth

upon

capitals,while

genuine

of whitewash

the

living became
Aveary
Roman, the Goth, and

of

columns

characterized

jadores) is

the

the

The

are
ceilings

Hall

it

some

impressed

with

and

left in

According

Arabes)

great that

one

architecture

great pestilencein Spain when

a
so

have

los

It is

from
Al-Kasr, signifying

or

de

to

me

accompany

stood

once

Domination

Arab

encyclopaediasof

of Seville.

wonders

where

the House

to

of Moorish

specimens

Spain.
Arabic

called

Peickler

Alcazar, one

of the

all the

such

Gaetano

Don

intentionally. One

them

(la Sala
than

Alhambra

employed

Moorish

the
of

de los Enibaone

with

Grenada.

workmen

the
Don

to

build

188

THE

it,who

vied

hambra

in its decoration.

Then

with

the

MUSEO.

their

laid out

gardens

rivals of the

cotemporary

Charles

by

V.

with

Al-

varied

levels and

orange-borderedplots,and secret fountains

the Avalks,are
well deservingof careful admiration.

beneath

You

be

must

cautious

how

step, or, when

you

expecting it,a jet cPeau will spring up through

hidden
rone
openings,and inundate your clothes.
My cicetold me
that when, during the Peninsular
war,
Sir John
Downie
other Englishman with
a
(or some
handle to his name") occupied the Alcazar
Governor
as
least

"

of

he
Seville,

when

and

touch

wont

was

they

the secret

to

invite

ladies

the

fairlyover

were

into

springs,whereby they

these

dens,
gar-

fountains

to

edly
unexpect-

were

cooled.
From

the

Don

Pedro

by

gardens
for his

constructed

are

and

four

and

grottos

banos.

the

at

with

while
But

which

baths,

de Padilla.

hundred

one

built

They

feet

long,

deep, with galleries

surrounding them,
It is said

sides.
Pedro

positionDon
of his court

the

to

mistress, Maria

of solid stone,

five

or

descend

you

bathing
let

us

and

hope

history seeks

wont

was

to

times

to

from

watch

swimming

that this is

at

that

the ladies

in these

one

cealed
con-

ed
vault-

of the fables

smooth

her

rugated
cor-

front.
We
Pilate

visited

next
"

Casa

the

denominated

so

de

because

built

in

that

It
tetrarch.
occupied by the Roman
Saracenic
architecture,mostly in decay;
be visited

chieflyto
"

Before
Have

And
which

thence
I would

as

House

JPilatos,or

relic of the

imitation

of
of

is of Gothicdeed,
is, in-

and

past

Decay's effacingfingers
beauty lingers."
swept the lines where

we

be

went

to the

glad

to

Museo

to

see

the

Murillos,

describe,but that I know

not

189

MUSEO.

THE

requirea poet to understand

poetry, none
but a paintercan
art.
\felt; but the
express his own
emotions
that are
deepest are at least susceptibleof
If it

how.

their domination

analysis. Under

existence, and

of

revive

can

One

their

rillo.

It is his

throne.

One

I had

case

of

he

bears

Napoleon

Inimitable

I then

as

Museo,

is claimed

which

attraction,indefinable

which

time

lends

recentlyrenovated.
Seldom
a day passed
and

after

You

do

Mr.

to read

and

To
after

hi such

of

conveyed through

the

at the

asked

wishes

an

other

to be

table my

him

friend

if he had

have

gratifiedmy

bull-fightand
"

no

It
the

by

minds.

! before

of the

been

alone.

author, seen

awaited

and

taking
; it is like under-

alone,as

No
with

other

his God

day,

that

I returned
of dinner.

the hour

Anglican Church,

satisfied with

Quite so," he said," and

"

again.

hotel

Museo

did I want

objectsof curiosityor art

Murillo,I thought would be profanity;
to

been

presence.

visit other

I met

seen

had

visit the

vapid. Nor
pointedout to me

beauties"

one
inspirations

therefore

and

"the

Besides

introduction,mostly

conversation

artist

inal,
orig-

incontrovertible,

and

inappropriate and
of the

found

be the

to

execution.

that I did not

Peickler's

desire

not

it,I

in the Louvre

That

art.

to

since for

years

considered

that

such

his

near

"

three

some

it had

eyes,

rival

no

Spain,who, as the Fates

forgotten to return it. It

superior hi coloring and

far

beauties

to Mu-

hi

had

Hector,

in the

seems

memory

"

Soult when

Louis

to

one

and

of his

Marshal

$120,000.
the

kingdom,

by
sold

was

the

La
Concepcion
chefs-cfrceuvres
It had been borrowed
previously in the Louvre.

seen

hi the

of

after effort

no

unprobed intensity.
is exclusivelydevoted
the Museo

in

room

lose all consciousness

we

satisfied

curiosity
"

consideration

the

to

not

can

say

on

earth

fight.
bull-

go

have
could

190

SPANISH

induce

witness

to

me

himself

another."

Let

"

man

taketh

who

like him

him

not

his

armor

not

get rid of the

presentimentthat

see

him

bull-fight.

boast

again at

There

horses

the chariot

shell

than

She

determined
could

coming
phrases are
What

She

no

made

each.

It

senorinas
to

denied

the

say

would

from

such

affect

was

full

hair,and

It

evening,
to

may

they

the

proud

dollars
of

many
their

upon

What

fans ! and

hundred
and

pretty

deed.

their hair.

be

tude
Grati-

in such

brushing, curling,and

the

as

eider-down, it

feet.
the

well

one

over

prominence
in

conviction.

flutteringof

their mantillas

thrown

Black
as

delicious

had

at

pass

arranging

of such

an

and

unrestrained,almost to
fall,
gives expres-sionto the ordinary face :

crowning glory

of

lovely

one.

the

ers,
should-

Some

night-hawk'splumage,

will

that

impeachment.
it,and nothing

the Alameda

on

for the

me

soft

I sent
her

enter

me

in vain

was

I confessed

concourse

anonymously
saw

pretty lips and

valued

some

livelongday

their

her

tortoise-

thank

It

the

believe

to

brilliant

give

when

horizon,

with

sent

to

her.

and
irresistible,

fans ;

arrive

I found

sooner

me,

bowing, greetings,
kissing,and
what

driven

western

head

procured and

ignorance,or

was

that

I had

present I had

I affected

did

the

the

running toward

came

beautiful

have

Dolores.

on

of

morning.

since the

she

back

the

on

comb, which

her

to

it reached

that
not

to

glossy hair nicelyarranged and

her

graceful;

ornamented

destined

was

basquina, tall,
pretty in her nice-fitting

very

lithe and

attendance

my

time

approached

sun

the

putteth on
off,"and could

it

could

day, the

myself

to

that

but

long

so

Phaeton

this

of the

permitted

looking

day

though

his father's

and

was

never

; and

end

an

he expressed

thought

strongly; repeated

rather

of the wise

words

COURTESY.

nament.
or-

soft
their

it is

LA

told

Dolores

stopped

on

address

to

reply did

what

means

limonade

so

ladies

sex

ever

the

mozo

insisted
whom.

custom,

de

Spanish

thought,

inconvenientlycarried
Spaniard does not dine
su

but

casa

his wife's

compliment
but, as
live

whom

to

say in

they
thousand

From

the

Girandilla

"

of La

"

called

Giralda,

great

tower

been

the heroine

nice

She
mean

had

before

for her

mil

her

la

just

can

the

as

nothing en

afford

found

Viva

from

impressario and
off

pretty

very

to

you

never

attended

is the

came

out

anos"

"

an

sional
occa-

the person

civility
;

May

he

cafe,we

of

by

me

la cuenta

pay

for this delicate

Spain,

years

so

to

However,

he
tertullias,

indebted

was

He

limits,but might be

invites

him.
tell

to

paid.

Dolores, smiling. It

excess.

like this.

been

told

so

caballeros

you,

I called

it had

refused

certain

to

in

of the other

When

estrangero.

within

got

we

Spain as

language

/" said

Querido

risk to their delicacy.

said

paid, but

my

appendage

In

them.

bill,he

were

you
said I.

without
or

But,

cafe where

And

blushed.

necessary

to

offend

caballero

"

was.

lemonade.

Espana

with

bill of

the

them

mistake, and

been

Cosa

custom

told

them

to

the

was

it had
"

place

there

thought

She

in the conduct

settle

to

?"

is

frequentcafes

takes

hija mia,"

lover, and

or

Nothing

"

I am,

helados, ice and

France,

was

them

Spanish beauty.
then
accompanied

make

you

beau,

acquaintances who

her, inquired who

And

"

querido."
a

of her

urging, replied, "I

my

of

that many

me

191

GIRANDILLA.

baile,of

residence
of the

which

La

in the

tom
bot-

Cathedral

jtremiere danseuse.

my

little bit of
entrance

acknowledged

bridegroom, lover, nor

novio

husband

of the
welding the peculiarities

three

romance

into

the

She

"

had

which

country.

(which does not

; but something

together),one

of

192

THE

the

famous

most

Cuchares

to

with

matadors

made

he

for
opportunities,
and

places master
and
Rumor,
other

that

the

in

hand,

lessons

and

He

in

on

tillhe had

had

had

that

and

great

relations ;

having

time

no

cityinto

the

the

of tauroma-

positivelyasserted

and

the

performed

part of the friends

duties

same

of

that

the

requested

fession,
pro-

dancing, which

Othello
lago accused
suspensionof public opinion was

novio,

and

of the tower,

reputable resorts

amateurs,

French

confidential

about

went

less

But

defiance.

very

dancing-master had

for the
wife.

at

interfere

to

his nation

lady

singularly at

on

artistes

the

her

gave

cafes,the bailes,and
chian

presumed

vanity of
to

pupil

very

scandal

the

of bulls

stabber

second, indeed,

"

Giranditta.

court

open

the bold

native
the

danse, with

de

of Seville

No

alone.

bisfltneionnear

maitre

set

DANCING-MASTER.

his

near

of

of the

course

matador,

He
loved
opportunityto be heard.
public opinion too well to keep it long in suspense.
One
French
maitre
was
returning home
night, our

from

his

an

pupil

in

shouting(forhe
"

Amour

than

more

was

"

patriot"),

de la

sacre

Conduis, soutiens
when
he

his

step, and,

would

inches
found

bras

nos

the

of

Catalonian

to

his

or

world

and

to

threaten, and

as

he had

been

was

known

four

He

was

breathing, and

lingereda long
As

he

about

knife.

still

next.

the

what

but

(what

were

by

up,

Arragonese
he

"

time, voice

same

home, where

only performed

persons

"

vengeurs

call,entrecoupes) broken

this

was

patrie

welteringin blood, faint

carried

had

at

and
spirits,

usually gay

the

time

bull-fighter

heard
to

by

divers

ously
be fastidi-

scrupulous regarding the sanctityof his word,

arrested and placed in durance
vile,like a common

malefactor.

Seville

was

in commotion.

tween
be-

The

he

bull-fight

194

THE

end

of the

nation

story ;

refuse

La

So

to

what

"

was

Seville ; and

in

each

of her

consented

She
dances

giving her an
became
on
good

much

more

than

the

and

room

wherein

The

breath

I had

opera
and

of

whom

I had

evidence

thereof.

whose

as

vaise

they

ton

for

without

on

and

indecent

had
which
with

been

never

national

Most

the

had

the

made.

appear
We

"

Fanny

witnessed
and

and

had

ing.
dancof

clean

have

the

limbs,

satisfactory

Fonda

de

were

Europa,

thought to see
somewhat
Cyprian
it would

and

therefore

Ellsler

"

used
in

which

mau-

I looked

dances,
to

render

Brussels

and

elsewhere.

be

other

among

dancing

better

"

had,

popular,

hat

so

so

"

feet touched

spectators there

dances

prohibitedfrom

I had
the

to

beth's
Eliza-

dancers, whose

seldom

should

we

at

danced,

small

was

whose

not, I concluded

winking.
Xeres, which

cl jaleo de
so

She

figurantes

ladies,from

were
me

the

were

before.

little shocked

but

French

acquaintance

them

for

dancers

Among

of

one

Queen

bailes

freer and

determined

English and

her

faces, and

seen

for

out.

she held

the

indeed

"

disposedly,"

characterized

seen

douceur.

only
and

the

for my

beauty

fit

high

gave

our

never

Some

seemed

"

grace

but

"

grenadiers.

little space

felt in

we

ours.

never

but

leave

to

as

and

"

her.

national

much

by

to

glass

with

upon

of

"

the

too

was

order

embassador

step

of

j)esos

terms

contract

of Prussia's

vigorous

Scotch
"

blade

armful

an

dos

agreed

was

masculine

King

with

yrande

occasional

some

I got off the

of the

however,
as

price

was

that old mad

me

Arragonese

equanimity, and
She

teach

the

of that

gleam

la

lioneSvS while

of paying

dint

by

to

and

"

meritorious

bailes,and

refreshment," I

of

of

gentleman

can

lady !"

Girandilla

was

i:.

01.

one,

The

handkerchief

she

the

Ole,

danseuse
in

either

THE

hand,

round

danced

attitudes,

pose,
She

carried

Now

she

approached

hat

extending

and

of

glances

that

inflamed

them

of

inflection

of

the

some

pas,

is

with

dance

is
with

one

which

recipient

desire

expected

features,

crowning,

the

hat,

every

or

gestive
sug-

AvhiTe

still
the

throwing
the

compliment
by

py
hap-

returning

concealed

substance

weighty

some

the

now

articulation

every

acknowledge

to

fever

her

flattering

so

and

to

of

ing,
retir-

ing
languish-

senses,

limbs,

the

expression

every

passionate

finale

hat

fruiton

almost

such

bestow

suddenly

as

and

coquettishly

to

then

effort.

every

rapidity

about

the

handkerchief;

the

and
its

in

circle,

subdued

of

making

the

as

in

hope

nerves,

The

of

one

spectators,

fascinating.

greatest

that

every

the

the

of
and

her

looks

now

mood,

with

preference,

eluding

darting

with

handkerchief

or

of

mark

artistic

soul

some

grace

circle

complete

equally

and

eye

astonishing

signal

the

^""s,

l\)o

OLE.

in
with-

it.
The
how
"

nos

much

Wait,"
"

gratified
says

he,

gipsy-dance."

when

day

next

"

till

had

told
been

get

this

at

you

Peickler

Gaetano

Don

entertainment
"

up

laile

de

los

gita-

XX.

CHAPTER

FRIAR"

FRANCISCAN

THE

SOME

of

Order

the

had

days

for
in

almost

came

of

corner

began

fear

to

had

you

had

time

no

Seville,

with

day

here,

knew

You

Is

and
for

perhaps

you

are

great

reverend

did

to

blushed

felt

"

Her

end

?"

He

which,
He

when

shall

we

smiled
I

do

grossed
en-

his
which

an

or

recalled

cheeks.

holy
or

Dolores
look

it

ass.

my

oftand

for

the

comprehend

not

with

immediately

of

please

to

daily,

that

have

present

Occasionally,

me

"

the

on

means

tells
When

father."

thinking.

"

Occasionally
mother

the

suffusion
?"

solely

with

girl,

been

understand

look

like

the
son

friends.

like, and

not

me

of

commencement

you,

my

;" I replied.

and

tone

have

old,

not

but

not

tion.
saluta-

been
of

his

antiquities'

nothing

the

Dolores,

ener

put

from

only

The

is

the
"

that

place

there
that

suddenly

Dolores.

"I

curiosity

could

'

proaching
re-

turning

was

your

beautiful,

blushed,
see

father

conveyed

was

"

them

the
"

on

replied,
of

of

was

was

son,"

my

out."

you
has

course

if

meaning,

and

nothing
Of

you?"

father,"

son

my

us,

find

to

call

antiquities

the

visiting

busy

to

left

friend

my

when

as

"

CITY.

conscience

him,

way

THE

seen

my

with
my

on

had

indifference,

collision

"Reverend
so

and

seeming

street,

CONFESSION

OF

AROUND

DRIVE

since

Francis,

VIEWS

HER

"

THE

"

elapsed

St.

me

DOLORES

CATHEDRAL

THE

G1RALDA"

TUB

TO

VISIT

expression

an

it

changed

afterward,
the

con-

He

versation.
its

my

of

consisted

the

chapter, from

But

Mendizabal,

appropriated

(as he
if

beggars, and

are

have

been

from

said

does

I found

said,had

had

not

take

the

churches

Our

outrage ! they

Dolores
gone

to

the friar's

suspicionthat
been

an

"

hard

sick

indignation,

wicked

idence
"Provis too

Providence

the

ground

reply,so

laugh malgre
mother

and

neighbor.

This

unpremeditated.

for

But

an

to

"

Voltairemoi.

sister,she
opportune

peculiarsmile, suggested
occasion

the

providing that

upon

Her

but

was

by assuring him

"

This
me

alone.
see

"

sneer

Church."

his

of the Church.

care

little birds

fall too

not

of the

console

to

canonical,made

sickness,and
mind

with

with

triumph

he, with

of the

much
un

upon

terms

proper

would

occupied

ish,and

we

son,

sequestered,our

monasteries

thought

Providence

sparrow
think

in

and

temporary,

much

my

now,

bare

that the

him

!"

thing

any

pittance they promised us

possessions! They have robbed, and

sympathized

reminded

that

wants

us."

starve

now

And

the

want

of outcasts.

scoff

the

us

stolen

our

in

property, and

infamy) to
could

Virgin.

minister

his

and, outrage

when

from

as

of the

called

State

the

to

well

as

sacred

despoiled,our
from

withhold

service

of

gave

citybelonged

the

the

the

desecrated

altars

the

Jew,

flourished

Church

in the

upon

hands

As

State.
the

when

it

devout

which,

accursed

ries,
prebenda-

many

of

the rent

an

1836, laid violent

of the

is

and

distributed

houses

to

as

The

Church

the

honor

did

choir.

thousand

earlyone

tithes,we

canons

the

chaplainsof

the

to

minor

twenty

and
superfluity,

poor.

it was,

as

auxiliarybishop,forty

archbishop, an

an

and

and

their

Church

glory, and its present tribulation.

of Seville
days," he said,"the Church

young

canons,

of the

of former

days

"In

spoke

197

FRIAR.

THE

to

my

eclaircissentent

Dolores

looked

all

198

CONFESSION.

of any

unconscious

might be
Hija

rnia," said

What

do

"

and

prudent

to

young

with

which

She

had

he

what
"

wished

attend

"

from

even
a

you

! have

because
present confessor,

I rather

?"

?"

"

"

Twice

confession

at

How

often,my

me

child,do

week, generally."

"

said

evening,"
bad

thing

any

?"

tell

you

hastilyinquired.

"This

done

you

Could

"

Oh,

since

; but

no

the

frequent confession keeps the soul safe

impure thoughts."
Well, Dolores, suppose
"

should

"

accomplice ?"
blushed.

The

for my

ciscan
Fran-

our

tected
thought I deYes," she replied,

"

again?"

go

kiss

Doubtless," she

penance

herself."

that

gentleman

She

secrets

are

reserve.

replied.

absolutely necessary
"

confess

you

besides

; because

know

to

last

priestsays

confessor

in her

him

she

What

were

you

other

confession

do

she.

child,is old,

only intrust

improper questions."

me

me,"

"When

I withhold
necessary

There

priest.

all

"

deem

would

sorry to have

be

little

guilty

doubt.

confessor,my

I continued

equivoque

Excuse

you

he

Your

no

exchanged

asked

be

may

plied
re-

good."

no

details,any

"Without

girlcan

young

you

an

he

you

handsome

friend ?"

of which

me

to

silent.

was

Have

"and

all their

I should

but

"

and

"

do

him, in

thing

tiling,"she

Every

would

I suppose

that

disclosed."

be

"

?"

flirtations?"

libs and

nothing
to

tell

you

weaknesses

charming
your

that I

thought

tell every

you

absolution

otherwise

"

do

"

I,

confession

priest at
;

"

and

purpose,

wrong

"

your

such

he

"

confess

to

replied.
He

Tell

next

prescribesfor

mother

and

Although

I had

"

would
me

sister
been

would

you,

'

to

the

not

demand

time

I come,

your

came

it

And

consider

you

the

it

padre
of

name

it."

?"

your
*

Dolores,

what

involuntary peccadillo."
in,and

in Seville two

I made
or

my

three

conge.

weeks,

THIi

had

ascended

not

lose

to

Peickler

illustration.
the

Yacab,

It

as

of Islamism

as

the

hours

be

since added

by

substituted

their functions.

resumed

eminence, they
The

were

female

under

saints,has escaped

tower

went

it

to

the

would

Those

all

the

now

and

of the

feet

the

fifty
Moors,
having
ing
hav-

cross

in

the
to

use

The

rally
natu-

should

devout
their

oil and

patronage

damage,

ground."

the

think

crescent, bells have

baptized with holy

Giralda, being

but

sympathetic,

additional

mass

of

tell to Seville the

peculiarefficacyin summoning
exalted
; because, before they were

have

used

none

hundred

Spaniards,and

for the

call the

adopted

one
Still,

to

Jusuf

founder

because

in the time

even

in

instruments

and

Giralda, two

the

Conde,

to

The

natural,more

hundred

one

historical

Christians

the

were

require powerful lungs

been

the

them:

cracked.

foundation,

of prayer

been

of

Gaetano

might

day.

gongs,

more

the top of the

it would

and

being

less liable to

feet from

; and

thought

ever

from

each

they

Guebers

voice

human

the muezzin

pedient
ex-

respects

my

century, by Abu

five times

trumpets, because

barbarians

that

paying

rejectedbells,because

the idolatrous

and

twelfth

whence

station

faithful to prayers

in

it

thought

erected, according

was

part of the

latter

them

time

further

no

delay

ray

of taste, I

want

to

As

object of curious architecture;Don

of
attending me, for the purpose

this

to

Giralda.

the

generally attributed

I !"'.)

";H:AU"A.

to

high

ized.
canon-

of

two

"when

temple
lightning has

mid-volley,have turned aside

and
to move
spared it ; and the earthquake forborne
it. Murillo has illustrated the miraculous
interpositions
of these
the Royal Academy
of Seville
saints,which
has proved beyond conjecture. These
saints were
the
of Triana : very
daughters of a potter in the suburb
respected

bombs,

in

"JOO

SAN

lovely of
to

put
there

in

the

image

been

having

would

they

consent

the

the patron-

as

divine ; for their

which

to

sex

fewer

the

to

Ferdinand

King

to

adopted

the Moors

were

They were
they refused to

peculiarpropriety

is difficult to

found, among
few admirers, and

attached

What

of Venus.

has

So

virtue.

287, because

year

Seville,it

of

saints

the

hi their

was

of ferocious

and

course,

death

worship

VKUDINAND.

they

to this

tower, that before

of Seville

surrender

Ferdinand

hi 1248

in

Spanish

fagotshimself when
a
were
burned), they exacted
promise from
destroy it on taking possession,
preferringits

carried

its desecration

to

that

piously concluding

kept to heretics,refused
Moslem

from

Paley,

infidels.

the

by

But

heretics
him

tion
destrucdinand,
Fer-

King

Succeeding generations have

rage.

hi

the

violated

on

the

ground

joiced
re-

of the

faith
of

to

promise should be
it,and guarded it

no

demolish

to

longed,
be-

imitators.

(calledSaint

he

annals, because

ample
ex-

royal saint,whom
would
fully
successgeneral utility,

exculpate.
The

of

ascent

notwithstanding
gradual, so wide
Seventh

to

of his

reign

And

well

might

illustrate the

in

not

and

The

spiral steps

St.

he

saved

I had

ride
the

of the

the

only

congratulated

he

descendant

so

commendation.

have

he had

cheval, as

grant

constituted

word, could

Ferdinand

the

deserves

are

might

one

that

Ferdinand

reign of
a

indeed

Domecq,

for which

ascend

easilyaccomplished,

which, with

of the tower

that this ascent

I did

feat

his broken

upon

is

capacious,that

the house

acts

himself

height.

and

performed,

royal arms

to

its

horseback;

on

up

Giralda

the

have

foreseen

was

destined

!
no

royal

blood

veins, but walked

lazilyand speculatiyely
up,
thinking of its history,the creeds it had served, and
the

my

musters

it had

undergone

"

thinking sometimes

of

202

coi.UMurs.

could

easilydiscovered

have

outside
and

the

town

its broken

vestiges of

the

its circuit

"

of

tiers

theater
amphi-

an

wholly

not

ated,
obliter-

yet distinguishable.

seats

Spain, its greatness is only of the

founded
by Caesar,and the birthplaceof
past. Italica,
by Adrian, and gratefully
Trajan,sumptuously decorated
Like

of

much

too

under

protected by Theodocius, populous

Goths

flourishingunder

and

habitation

thievish

gipsy.

the

of

of

will

ivy

lizard)take

make

wish,

like

muse

upon

the

the

ruins, and

I went

with
what

eyes
showed

the

his

as

mundo
It is

I had

me

who,

did

"

have

have

my

he had

old

bones."

is

the present
man

for the

tauridors.

Spain ;

and

capacity.

he

douceur

with

the

dral
cathe-

the

view

might

it

Castillo, y

"

world

new

and

son

to

He

himself

at

the

; which

bulls

for

motto

the

gave
"

each

shalt

he
not

Havana, which

Spain.

he increases

ancestor

gives fresh

Leon."

Valladolid,

tardy justice,was

representativeof
His

! thoti

in the
of

crown

of

and

nuevo

Scipio Africanus,

buried

was

Leon

such

died

With

own.

Castile

deserve

his

through

of Columbus

Hernando,

Ungrateful country

act

of fortune

the

I entered

that I

man.

to
an

from

of

He

annexed

however, by
And

"

nice

the view

small

tower.

Columbus

said

It is

my

have

to

broken-hearted

might

gave

"

Weeds

comprehended by

has

motto

ai-ms

not

tomb

something

one's

the

out

companion,

my

amid

mutability of

owlets.

satiated,with

not

Giralda,I descended, leaving a

family as

Marius

from.

away

Satisfied,
though

of the

lagartos (the slimy

of romantic

place

the

now

there.

long tarry

no

the

cover

hasten

place to

you

Carthage, to

fortune, you
instead

Unless

is

the haunt

disgustfullizard,and

of the

ruins

Moors,

the

the

His

family,

ennobled.

great discoverer

by raisingbulls
a

new

world

according

to

to

his

THK

In

told

had

me

been

The

the

of

gorge
the

to

so

curious

Eve

life that

of both

sexes

this

The

or

out

gone

put themselves

discovering
of

shawl

of
to

should

be

former

the

upon

lest

the

fresh

was

its proper

concupiscence

be

not

may

ons
can-

of

source

they
tions
obla-

sparse

long

not

were

One

found

covered

the

day

with

turned
immediately reunion
of mysticism

This

altar."

The

cause.

devotion

paint! and

tions.
dona-

up ; and

of the

They

the

first mother

our

dried

cause

shrine.

removing

or

their

fruitful

vowed

offeringsfor

of fashion.

anxious

find out

to

had

other

had

Church

the

and

discontinued

Virgin

to

breast

gratefulwho

expected,

priestsbecame

revenue

the

or

silver candlesticks

received

and

"

timorous

the

or

given

with

"

of which

place. The images of the Virgin

deserted.
The
Conception, by Murillo,were

devout

in

of

thousands

and

the masterpiece

me

Generation,"

"

La

favors

La

the

daily crowded

and

"

showed

followingstory :
painted done
exquisitely

hundreds

even

Vargas,

de

of Luis
he

Gaetano

transept, Don

203

(.'ATHKOUAJ..

exclusivelya

de

cosa

Espana.
Of

course

heretics

been

visited

we

else.

in all Catholic

ns

from
toe-nail,
had
that

Peter

shed

for ; at

"We

size of which

city.

after
of the

The

the

saw

authorities

gave

own

having

genuineness

of

probable
keys

these

of

have

the

tears

his master;

and

Dives

St. Ferdinand

he must

some

denied

identical

cross,

part of St. Francis's

that

had

we

"

the true

I inferred

of his

water

bones

pieceof

abroad

least,relics just as

proved.

relics and

was

churches

the

(perhaps)some

There

respectablefoot

the

Lazarus

asked

and

as

the

which

to

easy

be

ish
Moor-

surrendering the
established
beyond

on

is

miracle.
It would

worthy

of

take

much

commemoration

more

time
than

to

the

describe
time

ah1 I

consumed

saw

in

204

seeing;

and

I had.

For

the

would

still worse

the

round

the outer

mind

and

I learned

and

drive

twelve

cicerone
We

went

Ferdinand
him

Iliad.

by

of

Either, to

ties.
picturesquenovel-

the

same

life

Spanish historyand

Peickler

through

in

They

original.

otherwise

one

entered

when

might

Mr.

guide
out

print as

duce
pro-

"

more

than

not

carriage,and drove
one's
city a circuit filling

of the

saw

month.

to

the

took

aisles,

themselves.

rich histories and

with

one

in

eye

in the

seen

we

walls

eye

in this
in

church

patience

altars,do

seen

than

be

the

painting,decorated

of the

retina

the

have

not

inimitable

and

appreciated,must
From

K.".

impression when

same

translation

bear

readers

statuary and

strike

they

GIPSI

windows,

gorgeous

be

my

THE

was

An

in golden robes, a
glittering

admirable

an

present.
St.

which

through

gate

acquired

past and

the

triumph.

have

introduced

angel

dozen

beggars ejected
have
But times
changed
us, shouting in squalidrags.
since the capture of Seville from the Moors, and pesetas
rather

than

We
or

angels are

first passed the

gipsies

"

now

origin,of

which

from

organizationwhich

their

yielded
from

to

their

the

or

rest

the

have

mankind.

have

thriven

in

have

visited

and

their

; the

and

own

never

men

frail ; ruled

bonds,
vaga-

by

their

laws, attached

to

hating, ay, utterlyabhorring,

Chased

another

chaste

not

; wonderful

sympathy

or

seldom
to

wonderful

habits,'which

and

women

kindred, and
of

laws,

their

tion
foreign addi-

all

excludes

their

yet temperate

obedient
chieftains,
own

ignorant;

are

monies.
cere-

gitanos

from

character, a nation of thieves,liars

drunkards, and
their

from

climate,

and

own

themselves

wonderful

the

Wonderful

race

of

masters

occupied by

suburbs

wonderful

best

your

afflicted

from

and, taking
every

country

one

nowhere,

root

kingdom

they

of

Europe.

THE

As

with

the

coming

their
found

dock-yard.

have

Roman

The

; and

of the

outcasts

Arab,

but

"

tion
sta-

grounds they

arsenal,and

victorious
now

is their

they

next

human

and

the

all-

occupying

are

long.

too

On

Nor

Roman

These

displacedthe

grasping
me

site of

predict/
what
they

stay ; but

left a desert.

ever

first the

were

Moorish

race

their

could

one

in Seville less anomalous.

here

locusts, no

determine

or

garden they

occupy

of

swarms

I'Oo

HOSPITAL.

left

our

attractive

we

though

saw

the

in

ruins.

of

convent

The

St. Jerome
has

state

religion lost much

by the
pious institutions;for while

"

gained

nothing, and

secularization

of

devotion

these

decreased, taxation
secularized

been

give, and
fit

Cases

at the

others

onerous

as

time

same

And

won't.

I had

monks

the

"

surely I

poured

out

Legs

swollen

to

with

blotches

the

this

saw

cancers,

and

relation

thing

Your

induce

The

way

get rid of

had

been

to

in

told
his

you

when

eye,

him

Dios,

For

hermano

"

to

contents.

former

were

zealously uncovered

size,all

almost

as

give

sore

with

and

reply

God's

tried

and

found

it

efficacious

The

beggar

this

"

recipe

scrutinize

Mrs.
my

to

Perclone

sake,

as

was

excuse

number
Kidder's

countenance

your

pass

on.

Spain I
tunity
impor-

in

sturdy suppliant,with
alms, I

tempted
at-

nauseous

and

ordinary beggar

I had

would

so

leprous

hastilyto

brother."

as

leg.
horribly

seemed

is moved

solicited

steady gravity at

swelled

not

stomach

an

"

their

of their disease

heart,both

eye

plague-strickenwretches

the

itself.

more

my

Lazaro
its

not

can

never

but

San
all

day

quadruple

and

eyes;
a

of

has

Charity

ever.

Madeira,

Hospital

have

your

in

with

met

disgusting. The

as

as

subjects for compassion than next met

hideous
victims of the elephantiasis,
or

the

to

is

has

look

with

usted

por

me,

my

of

times,

cordial.

inquis-

2015

fHJLDKKV

itivelyfor

moment,

Cato's

as

for

old stager, and

an

it would
the
It

been

have

us

That

"

?"

call them

replied,
them

far

so

"

and

boys

informed

be

not

But

they

You
And

entered

so,

the

since

parents

he

call
nearer

on

fours,

all

on

world,

for Mr.

"

ingly
laugh-

would

and

as

Peickler

wretchedly

were

told

little wretches
nice-looking

were

nice I don't

clean, no

mean

all

them

fewer.

stared

at us,

did

They

jumped
thinking no more

before
moral

(What

time

develop

to

than

more

Captain Marryatt his sister

and
Kentucky meant
dirty),

gal hi

them

Spam,"

do

poor,

extravagantly procreative. Malthus

than
in Madeira.
abroad, in Spain,more

been

Adam

no

course,

has

who

have

to

romping

"

been

ever

boons?
ba-

they

are

seem

ninas.

children."

that their

me

and, of

had

"

in

them,

and

approach, they proved to

when
naked
and
as
they

perhaps they

before

distinguish. What

can

call

girls,or

them.

on

queer-lookinganimals

ninos

to

refuse.

as

We

me

less than

no

practiced this

companion
be, for they

my

not

can

tail

hair, nor
you

of

inquired

?"

self

termined
de-

But

opportunity.

one's

have

is that flock of

What

better

crueltyto

give than

easier to

was

wait

lepers to

miserable

"

finding it as savagely
take
refusing a bribe, would
and

the young

I could

as

of their

I threw

human

screamed, shouted,

some

nature;

knocked

nastiest
wish

not

nakedness

of

fruit.

this if I had
coin

the

and

and
than

forbidden

small

about

man

passed,

we

he

it !)

the

was

partook of the
might be plucked out

illustrate

to

up

I say

(when

among

they

way

pitched into

and

greatly pleased a misanthrope.

If they have
ah1 of Adam's
nudity," I said to my
of Cain's
depravity.1'
some
companion
"they have

each

other

would

have

"

"

He
se

replied:
quedct
"

"

Aunque

la

If the parents

mona
are

se

vista

wicked,

de

how

seda,
can

mona

you

ex-

children

pect the

be

to

We

passed

tattered

and

feature

feature

teeth

and

who

heroes

man

many,

assigning any merit to

falls
never
Spanish author
have

heard

hour

them

urged

companion inquired as
Spaniard crossed himself
the

wherefore

"

during

their

the

into

of

it; whether

cruelties,or
many

ttna

y la

"

There
We

is

that

long

the Arabian

long

These

I { oman,

the

you

the

they
best

find

all

over

once

history,

The

lace
popu-

had

been

Spaniard

at

Indeed

JLapin-

it.

That

say.

is,

distance."

with

aqueducts
Spain.

proaches
ap-

its former

suppliedthe citywith

monarchs

water.

its

circuit to avoid

line of

every

was

their renewal.

things viewed

the

passed

it

recollects

"

certain

that

Still it is not

it.

that

pelea,desde Icjoslas ojea

are

"

institution

he

apprehensive of

makes

one

along,

in blood.

the

fear

liked

again,but
notice,"my

over

you

completely gutted

sentiment

passed that building?"

written

was

it, when

suppressed, and
without

have

"Because
they?"
Holy Inquisitors,and

sway,

broke

"Did

error

an

I should
battles

he

These

Salamanca,

"

do

of

abode

as

of

eye ;
latter

exposed.

drove

we

the

"

English

into.

onward.

an

historyhaving tripped

the

fightthese

me

lost

nose

battles

like ;

in

had

more

the

the

distinguishable

One

won

Talavera, Barossa, and

dilapidatedsoldiers, "all

been

doubtless

having
the

were

"No

gather tigs

men

without

some

"

mustache.

the

save

of

barrack

torn"

another, his

the

Do

good?

thistles ?"

from

to

207

INQUISITION.

TIJK

For

which

abundant
like the

conquered, but he occupied

and
whatever
he occupied he decorated.
King Abderrahman
reigns
Anasir, one of the most
magnificent soveof

Arab

the
of

the

bridge

never

Cordovan

numerous

of the

"

dynasty,

beside

the

struction
con-

aqueducts for Seville, caused

Guadalquiver to be repaired; and

208

erected

all its Gothic

Seville than

cavalcade

which,

"

As

saw

neared

they

as

did

alone

rulers.

aqueducts,we

these

surveyed

his horses

all in

rump,

dressed
fancifully

more

us,

return

from

gay

displayed

turesque
pic-

us,

Gitanos

fail to attend.

horse

It is

great occasion

grand opportunity for

in the

jockies

identical

horse

it is

world
have

they

the

stolen
him

impossible for

fair every

passed the spot on

majos collect, but

our

their

on

holden

people

never

jokes,
practical
sell

do

better

wish
de

to

guised
dis-

so

his

an

own

attend

than
see

the

man

recognize

to

but

"

review

him, but

from

Thursday

way

querida

yitanos, the greatest

"

is

for

and

girlsyet

were

of

(forthey

"

property). Strangerscould not

of these ferias (fairs)
if they
one
varietyof fun and rascality cosas
There

; the

been

this kind

days' horse fair,which

three

had

there

his

passed in

the men,

Mairena, where

and
a

swelling like peacocks. They

before

for

more

approaching

holiday attire

than

marble

loitered

we

The
variety of habiliments.
romantic
scoundrels,the majo with

other

and

He

(Conde, chap. 72).

with

fountains

containing

mosques

basins

on

FAIRS.

THE

infinite

Espana.
Seville

at
not

had

we

"

the

fair where

would-be-purchasersof fruits,

the

generally. The pork is as

poultry,and meats
delicious as that of Oporto, fattened, like our
Western
flavor.
which
pork, upon the acorn,
gives it a game
fish,and

There

is fish of all

which

if you

cooked,
outside

lands, from

prefer,you

both

at

this

in these

always simmering;
"

the

meat

generally carrion,
native

place

pauper

ferry-boat,on

which

and

to

other

And

the

and

flounder,

ready

eat

piscatorystands

the

olla

podrida

is

places literally
podridn,
aids its compositionbeing

the

perverted

prefers. Near
Guadalquiver, is a

rather
the

which

shad

purchase

can

inside the walls.

and

i. e., rotten

the

taste

of

the

barqueta

stand

famous

the
or

for

"JIM

T;H:

whole

will

corps

LAST

AUTO-UA-VI..

be

never

in Seville that

Don

they probably

will mount,

"

take

the

From

Sabine

this

of

that at times

females.

fall into !
their

him
than

Mr.

as

to

Quemadero,

the

stood

beings were

little from

place

condemned

bion

"

of

ilone could
of
aas

that

for

been

as

hens, a

our

The

not

was

otherwise

gratifieda
insinuated, on

So

than

offense
she

crowd

path
used

to

bribe

or

further.

no

me

visit

the

tics.
here-

roast

to

"

Spaniard

beautiful
a

Spain

attends

Protestant

She

of Eccaleo-

through
which

till

place

girl.

kind

burned

was
as

entered

auto-da-fetook

last

having invented

expiate.

with

feme

at

spot where the unfortunate

stake, and I could not but

I had

mortal

fria

urged

they

the victim

hatching eggs

medium

the

to

century.

780, and

where

the very

on

bound

present

cicerone

my

tomahawks

Frenchman,

I told

manufactory

proverb

to

mot

to

cigarsin

enter, but

del agua

be

idle ; for

not

are

of Indian

visited

escaldaclo

and

of whom

faster than

move

to

me

had

bon

to

had

persons

five hundred

gauntlet

congratulatemyself

was

advised

the fire ;

as

deflected

in 1

it would

time

mean

will make

run

Scotchman,

here

cigar

quadrangular
sixty-two

and

nest

said

are

in the

tongues.

conclusive

the

Texas,

or

in

thousand

hornet's

tongues

that goto

We

It covers,

up.

seven

child dreads

We

Tabacos,

rollingcigars,nearly all

What

rather

Cadiz, and
is

all in

Peickler

their

burned

as

many

workwoman

I had

in

say

and

which
fingers,

day.

de

of six hundred

space

Their

good

one
a

as

employed,

were

they

as

Then

twenty-four,a shapelessmass
architecture.
My companion told me

uninformed

been

hugely

five hundred

by

and,

Fabrica

the

looms

form,

Madrid.

reached

has

hear

they

slide."

place

manufactory,
feet

Carlos

unless

mounted

the proper

death

by

in the

fire

ence
pres-

bull-fights.It

authority,that

this

not

that

she

in the
of

natural

friend,I asked

ciscan

the true

and

han

I next

born

the

padres

sion
ver-

There

"

all have

have

girlmay

latter

certain street

"

to

Fran=

my

replied.
in

friars

give faith

saw

supposed

else

had

uncles,

nephews by

monks."

Leaving

which

heretic

no

Puerta

world

upon

shaded

gate whence

in

since

taught

finances

issued

from

the

of

walk

step faster,if

Sevillian
would

be

final

El

to

in the

delights"of

Sevillian

fashion,of which

seat

Puerta

never

walk,

say

in this distracted

de Xeres

she

were

faseo

lie Las

too

now

pany
accom-

de

tina.
Christhe

once,

pelled
com-

of Louis

dominions

this

can

graceful,

so

than

more

Beyond
but

has been

nation, she has been

the

refuge

She

likelyto

more

than

Quemadero

flowers,
of Ferdinand

bride

not

And

senoras.

Napoleon.
spoken,

ble
fashiona-

with

Naples.

having exhausted,

seek

of the

outlet

of

night

the

"

youthful

patience of

and
to

The

the

of the

crowd

the

After

holds

upon

enlivened

fair Christina

to

the
Seville,
to

Sebastian,in

came

trees, and

honor

aire of the

her

It is the

promenade, after the siesta,and is

beautiful
extra-mural
a
ground. Here

VII., the
the

of San

at

the

with

laid out

was

tannery ! and,

interred,we

be

can

in Seville.

loveliest

walk,

into

Jesuit

suppressed

unfriended, melancholy, slow"

"

arrival

the

Diego,

turned

Xeres, the

de

"

my

left San

our

distance,the city cemetery

farther

city

on

afterward

convent,

in

This

will

sabe ?" he

ningunos

fathers.

none

the

tios,y

of certain

who

When

children

proverb relatingto

Todos

as

But

Quien

girl suffered:

hatching something

if he

him

"

one.

the

the assistance

of heretics.

insinuations

with

way

neighboringmonastery.

the

is

in

detected

been

had

for which

offense

real

the

was

211

rniMSTlNA.

Ql'KEN

Delicias,

"

the

ly
previous-

I have

much, while

memory

globe.

is claimed

to

have

been

built

212

UY

USED

PERFUME

by Hercules, and the Torre

gold," by Julius Caesar,and
bear
unmistakable
signs of

GIRLS.

Oro,

del
with

the

"

of

tower

equal justice. They

Moorish

origin; and

the

Spanishreformation ; for something in shape

built upon
the top which
of a pepper-box has been
gives to the edifice a ridiculous incongruity.
latter of

We

did not

off

gone

go

off at

or

salt

long

all

cod-fish,a

though

not

chachas

odoriferous

an

compelled

fast,when

fresh

fish is

which

then

stand

or

with

the

while

sit

bacalao, if only
We

drove

The

of

fire,volumes
of their

Plaza

de

its

braseros, and

clothes

are

rated
satu-

confess,that

Toros

of

of perfume.

preferredthe perfume
variety.
the

mu-

mineral

have

round

assisted at the
Puerta

as

kind

"

I must

potent vapor.

I should

time.

Lent,

during seasons
dear, neutralize

it tih1all their

over

hi

it

and

rare

sell baccdao

they

any

partake of

to

of mengwyn
by lavish use
with
touched
emits,when
They put it on the coals

scent

the

at

one

the first

at

institution

useful

senal
ar-

the latter wo)"?t

at

place where

very

modern

or

constructed

those

ago, and

at the

nor

"

the ancient

at

fire-arms

all the

because

"

have

stop either

where

ter
af-

of the

I had

the cityby
and then entered
bull-fight,
Triana
oppositethe quarter where the

de

"

gipsiesinhabit.
The

walls

influence
the

by

of the

cityare strong, and

A portion is said

of time.

Romans,

constructed
lasted for

not

ah1 of whose

for time

and
centuries,

works

show
to

but little the

have
to

seem

been

built

have

been

have
eternity. These
in ah1 probability,
centuries,

but

for

will last.

Many

an

did Mr.
which
But

so

much

that I have

anecdote,illustrative of the past and present,

part,
Peickler,during our drive, eloquentlyimI stored

in

rubbish
in vain

of the cells of my

some

has

looked

accumulated
to

find them.

over

memory.

them

since

CHAPTER

MR.

PEICKI.ER

HAUNT"

walked
and

still, in

are

the

moral

to

Jews

the

driven

of

their

hard-hearted
Child

her

Their

other,

plausible
"

an

"And
"The
thieves

when
of

offer

to

as

how,"
men

The

chastity;

false.

the

as

as

asked,

as

latter
former

free

none

are

all the

to

gain

vice
"

in

every
more

mystery
nations."

cheats

fortune-tellers

one

and

livelihood?"

of

to

them.

among

have

possessed
from

pulsion
ex-

Virgin

horse-jockeys,

thieves,
are

the

They

they

cruel

their

as

abomination
"do

persed
dis-

their

respect,

we

substitute.

well

women

this

But

blacksmiths,

as

the

in

that

vagabondage,

refuge

sought

themselves

probably

enigma,

they

tion
rela-

and

attribute

entertain

to

in

teaches

of

consequent

refusal

account

is

and

Egypt,

whether

country

because

the

as

I mean,

own

gipsies

the

and
and

marked

religion

their

Spain,

conduct,

respect,

one

our

in

we

lineament

"

world

so

"

In

in

DANCE.

Pyrenees

the

theirs

as

the

Christ

from

said,

from

throughout
treatment

is

day

and

distinctly

as

For

Saviour.
were

scaled

are

I PS

next

as

character

resemble

to

THE

centuries

territories.

history

our

of

they

they

fabulously,

or

GIRLS"

four

been

IliVINO'S

WASHINGTON

"

THE

Peickler,

parts

our

upon

whose

truly

have

TRIANA

OF

Mr.

when

character

Jews;

said
"

as

same

TO

CHASTITY

essential

all

bivouacked

WALK

EYE"

Triana,

to

OUR

"

THEIR

"

gipsies,"

THE

"

GIPSIES

ON

GIPSIES

XXI.

and

one

and
curesses.
pro-

virtue

drunkenness.

"

214

TILE

Neither

would

they

are

Avhen

the

sometimes

gipsy sot.

fraternity."

their crimes

bribe

not

can

knew

never

in the

punished for

are

men

"

tolerated

be

never

they

The

gipsy harlot

saw

never

GIPSIES.

"

?"

alguazil or
for

gibbeted

"

Oh,

But
yes ;

escribano.

murder,

sent

or

galleys for highway robbery ; and the women

imprisoned for theft,or flagellatedfor sorcery : but,
the

to

generally,they
punishment."
As

we

"

led

by

the

do

not

inquire if

to

me

in

recollect
of

It

its

annals," he

replied,

were

infidels

were

envied

was

or

it

has

their

mentioned

the

the

It

we

loth, took

me

wealthy, and
used

because

our

it

lunch

was

when

into

tensioiis appearance,

to

has

ever

some

and

but

in derision

them.

to

ion
Relig-

conceal

rible
hor-

Triana

; and

fore
be-

dirty streets,I
companion ; who, nothing
and

tortuous

my

gipsies

motive."

entered

we

The

yet the Holy

with

the

never

they

possessions

Saviour

been,

to

Jews,

because

their

ishing
pun-

since

ever

burned

not

to intermeddle

it

as

superiortalent.

of

name

into the

plunged

proposed

been

origin

Ferdinand

positiondangerous.

thought
mask, as

high-noon

was

the

sect

Inquisitionas

by

gipsies.

were

blasphemous epithets,and

enormities,but

of the

not, either in

was

from

heretics,but

or

writh

If any

the

upon

avarice, or to put down

"gratify
Moors, and Protestants,were

never

cuted
perse-

"

they

introduced

was

extortingmoney
the powerful,and

Office

Holy

been

because

not

was

of

or

of the

gitanos had

gipsy punishment.

practice.

never

Guadal-

the

the

Foreigners generally look

which
religiousinstitution,

means

evade

or

?
Inquisition

burned, it

or

detection

escape

crossingthe bridge over

sight of the former residence

single case
were

to

were

quiver,the
Office

how

know

kind

of

ordered

store

bread

of
and

no

very
cheese

pre-

(all

the

owing

was

to

I did not

manner

the

v/as

visited

The

learn.

this

the

venta,

house

this

the washerwomen.

screaming

of

uproar

and,

and

might

become

opened

my

only
house

without

more

quiet

never

shut

rendezvous

the

alleys of

for

this

the

were

dirty
from

never

gipsies,but

filth.
worse

the

few

hope

can

olive hue

of the

above

the

What

sinews

The

to

see

! what

y suyos
I should

"

height,
thighs !

and

Points"

of

; for not

it would

Seville
be

not

night
improved

them

of

at

and

what

colors,from

all

almost

to

but

"

place has
picturesque rascals

Such
"

"

narrow,

of the

again

Spaniard

middle

said

robber-population of

years.

It

other.

dangerous

among

dii'tiest lanes

"Five

so

or

the

very

"

tumes
cos-

place.

in this quarter ; and

themselves

within

children

of the

suburb

of

lavanderas

las

ter,
laugh-

here, it had

was

their

and

of

eral
gen-

ears, that

my

Peickler

gipsies occupying

impassable
York

talking

want

losing the
Mr.

"

pleasant to trust one's self

though, indeed, the character
much

what

or

and

eyes

shouts

distinguishedcountryman
quite a

almost
New

What

sense

one

found

and

me,

garrulous crowd ! what

clatteringof tongues,

costumes

"

called, we

was

hours

for all the washerwomen

We

it

six reales

to sit whole

ceaseless

ninos, the washerwomen

think

wine, was

tainment,
enter-

our

informed

Que carcajada !

satiate

my

of

in what

children,yelpingof ugliestcurs, and

formerly been

since

told me,

cask ; but
cost

Man-

I tasted

companion

What

! what

oh

had

wont

kind

Peickler

whole

where, my

indiscriminate

an

the

whatever

or

Washington Irvingwas
with

of

best

includinga pint of
thirtycents.
Leaving

copitas of

pocas

superior quality,Mr.
the preparationof the

Its

Spain.

boasted) and

wine

The

sanilla.
in

it

comestibles

1'ij

W48HBBWOMKN.

TUK

negro
well

the

blackness
,

proportioned.

legs !
"

strength and

"210

GIl'SIKS.

THE

handkerchief

neck;

of

shoulders, with

waist, its

sash, girdled the

breeches

spatterdashesof

and

the

their

sheep-skin,over

with

red-plush waistcoat,overloaded

Leather

sugar-loaf;a

looselyaround

filigreeunderneath.

buttons, and

thigh.

tied
of

coat

or

zamarra,

high-peakedhats

point like

colors

gaudy

had

They

agilityequallydeveloped!
their heads, coming to
on

ends

hanging

either

on

leg to the knee

leather
protected

covered
cloth

crimson

fcija,or

the

or

it

below.
Some

their heads
the fetlocks
and

others

the

ears,

they

may

be

and

they

; to

No

liable.
the

tijeras(scissors)
upon
and

make

him

in full

the

take

better

the

is wonderful.

his horse

in

readilycured.
the

to

animal

of

pastern

certain

there

care

With

mals
ani-

wounds

load, the

was

their

taneous
cu-

very

horses

subservience

gratitude or

gesture the gipsy

intractable,and

dirty,squalid and

every

where,

and

them

several

times.

in

was

swarms

he had

Mr.

danger

Imps, with

shiningeyes,

by

word

stop

were

Peickler

of

had

been

children

her to

she

inquire of

also much
saw
a

mischievous

encountered,
that

me

over

struck

around

saw

being tripped up by

such

never

told

litters I

numerous

accompanied Lady

haunts, who
of

if the

career.

Children

and

mules, which

(theytell yon)

which

gipsies; and

can

great adepts ;

guard, they said, against a

persons

of the animal

number

that

"

trimming

some

are

particularattention

gave

disorder,to

such

their

they

tails of horses

quite close

of the horse

than

which

horses,at

backs

sparks ;

galled by their harness or

less likelyto fester,
and more

that

saw

of

of

showers

operatingwith

shear
be

with

ing
surround-

and

wielding huge hammers,

were

her.

tures
feaand

time

some

these
with

the

in
vious
pre-

same

large

duced
Curiosityin-

pretty-lookinggitana how

it

218

CHASTITY

is

"It

The

is but

loss of her

can

commit

that

what

girl has

fate is

she

"

married."

You

that part of the

"

said he.
would

be

they

learn

blessingto

the

indeed

tie?"
it

The
Avell

the

as

hesitate

Avere

CA'ery

thanked

was

his

"

God

in

one

thrust

forbid !" he

it

don't

replied,"they
girlsthemselves."

But

we

knife

as

would
any

and

they

nothing

"

"

; and

miliar
fa-

ing.
even-

themselves

decent

or

too

in the

see

them

too

ures
gestwould

gratify.

to

I told

him,

is it

the suburbs

are

houses?"

replied.

think

language

advice,which

own

how

least,"

Why

of the

Their

unnecessary.

of their

the

to

he

accompanied

Triana," I inquired,"that

don

Not

armed

thing but chaste

thing to pro\Toke,and
for

she

home

I should

to

were

were

her

against being

we

with

return

; and

truth.
me

demonstration.

him

"

this

against

of the girl that

"

the

any

time,

mean

to

provides

mothers.

than

melancholy

who

men

?"

Spanish

said,

tery
mys-

"

continued,

sooner

lapse

idea,"I inquired,

"Generally,"

girls,he

pronounced

"

is

mother

girl leaves

no

companion cautioned
with
the girlswhom

My

of

ace.
men-

very

knowledge

is fastened

Because,"

Avish to unloosen
Which

have

is

against imitation

dress

her

tillthe

dress

the

physical security

icithout

she

vain

in

and

The

the inmost

continuallyinspectsit

"

she

crime

is it

terror

all.

not

fastens

so

be undone

not

can

called

be

may

is

her

to

one

detected

been

that

youth,

punishment

Nor

additional

an

This

crime.

danger,

do

direst

The

disobedience.

her

when

of her
of her

"Doubtless,"

is but

there

their

suppose

happen

can

virtue, she disappearsforever:

from

not

that

fornication.

"

For

be

earliest

from

told

misfortune

virtue;

awaits

warned

girl is

one

the

it

GIRLS.

singular,"I replied; "but

"

he.

there

THE

training in part explains it."

domestic
said

OF

Quien

to
"

se

in

have

in

this

the

fun-

-Aro qttierrtDios

ji-ade

""

lobo.

219

DAXCE.

entre

dientes

sits

and

"within

the

Avill be

safe."
Peickler

place where

off

come

pockets,

our

nine

about

me

the

to

me

is to

funcion

wool

o'clock

that

dance

the

was

off.

come

It

for

for

out

go

lives,it*not

our

called

led

should

; the

walls, where

evening, and
to

We

"

No

shorn.

return

Mr.

muere

was

he

large room

for the

hired

had

occasion,

capable perhaps of seating comfortably fiftypersons;

Avithout furniture,
benches
and chairs,and with no
save
lightbut

of the

most
one

tallow

The

candles.
in

houses

floor
There

Spain.

of

was

brick, like
alcove

an

was

at

separated by dirty-lookingcurtains from

which
to be used as a tiring-room.
was
apartment
corner,

the

"

The

orchestra

individual

looking

in

should

have

The

mise

en

The

tickets to

there

and

as

of
the

xvere

all

Their

they hung, seem

diappointed as
But,

not

had

expense

Sancho

when

the

should

he

me

would

to

"

assist"

the

help to

draped

in

mourning.

seat

my

every

thing

Panza

was

is

not

yet.

We

had

"

been

and

in the

wont

shuffle

long

seated

to

the

darker

eyes
which

felt rather
circle

inner

est
near-

discouraging.
"

say,

cards."

when

the

these

so

of

of

one

around

seemed

charge
dis-

Besides

at

room,

rived.
ar-

distribute

relations,friends, lovers

of

burluja patience,

we

entertainment.

the walls

not

told

expect

I took

dancers,

eye,

in cost,

extravagant

seem

swarthy complexion, and

hair, made

the

his

African.

an

acquaintances who

danseiises,who
reunions.

fancy.

Peickler

certain

the

these,

in

for

mouth, and
for

but

dark, that

did

scene

his

bandit-

"

appeared full,or nearly so,

saloon

Mr.

him

piece

one

cigar in

so

taken

expressed

nor

with

his hand

guitar

of

composed

was

the

Paciencia
The

end

orchestra

220

lilli

began
his weed

thrummed

and

emerged from
fawn's, a girlof
and
agile. She

the

the

some

alcove, with
fourteen

wore

descended

lower, leavingunconcealed

instep.

another

her

to

head

waited

with

articulation

then

and

feet

Her

eye

the

stillshe

than

acting a part
soul

"

was

enter

into the

sparkled,her

bosom

heaved,

What
the

tion
paintmo-

can
can

one

give no

gracefulflexions,these
entrechats, and

they

transferred

be

the

it like

ennui, continued
closed

like

like

dance

woman

these
to

per
pa-

face, the

eye,

breathed

delirious

the

movements
an

indicate

bosom,
emotion

away

were

antique statue
their

every
!

oppressed

woman

gradually irritated,

one

carried

in

Every thing expressed tumultuous

To

Her

dance.

to

These

can

moment

canvas

as

ends

artistic ; but

appeared

artistic

these

If she commenced

"

the

chin,

Every

pencil;

nor

sparkling glances,how

of her

poetic

music.

meteors.

life.

no

springy bounds,

she

little

bosom, and

all correct, but

were

she

the pen

color,the other

with

into

pas

every

glanced like

Neither

seem

scarlet

the

her

the

glided

By degrees

her role.

or

covered

beneath

emphasis

spiritof
?

to

or

untrammeled

rehearsing rather

one

and

wanting.

knee

slow, like the adagio in

was

like

the

picturesque immobility the

perfect,and

seemed

her

tied

"

and

first motion
was

lithe,graceful,

"

gracefulshoulders.

the

commence,

pose

light as

as

bodice, laced with

to

and

handkerchief

gay

falling
upon
She

years

black

step

away

immediately

so

tunic, which

or

saya,

And

guitar.

adjusted to her figureas

with
the
it,contrastingartistically

ribbons,and

part of

threw

is,the gitano

his

there

rich

GIUL.

That

strike up.

to

GIPSY

And

spiteof

passion.

gesture

still,
though

voluptuous, none
is

naked, but

satisfaction,the

and

were

not

self.
her-

The

nerve,
many
tious
licen-

indecent.

Andalusians

threw

feet,and

their hats at her

the

panolism,did

pile" from

"

my

same.

abandon, and

that

is

smashed

'"''Tout

me?"

paid

the

you

caballeros

it

"

outdone

seeming

give

you,

envious

because

had
of all

name

that

girl
with

replied; "she
she

highest compliment
an

she

Is she angry

contraire," he

what

wholly

rage

in the

for ?

seized

it in tempestuous

again,till

What,

in Es-

she

round

again and

that way

au

See

showing.

imitation!

be

Peickler," said I, "has

in

hat

my

Fatal

the floor.

Mr.

good,

to

then, in

upon

it with

smoothed

I, not

crowd, danced

the

feminine, sprung

221

VISION.

is

capable
of

look

some

have

been

you

has
of

those
guished
distin-

so

!"

From

this custom,
You

"

originated,
It

cost

hat.

me

best.

very
others

reconciled

Although
and

had

been

action
The
I

yet

danseuse

turned

when

thrown

emotion,
Within

or

four
but

eyes,

the

less that

stood

me

retired
to

to

turn

clothed

like

not

Nor

into the

my

think

but

she
main

the

which

alcove, upon
Mr.

Peiekler,

suppressed

was

vision !
a

to

soar;

your

should
breath, lest loud respiration

eye,

haughty, fierce,and

rubbed

vision,and

in flesh and

falcon about

saltatory

head.

saw

It

much

indicate

to

ticipations,
an-

my

I mistaken.

with

my

the

defeating

; that

was

converse

it stood.

was

so

skirmisher

place.

feet of me,

there
it

seen

hum, intended

caused

my

She

had
back

my
buzz

take

to

but

exceeded

than

never

to

the loss.

more

as

those

of
gratification

before, I could

out

that

good

sombrero,

worn

the

surelyhad

execution

was

girl had

this

hat."

precaution of

easilyto

me

tor I

grace

taken

have

must

jjesetas to make

the

However,

phrase

our

my

many

taken

not

born, and

manor

take

may

good

I had

I suppose,

none

blood.
and
alarm

seemed
penetrating,

you

held

her.

Her

to

look

222

the

upon

crowd

No

scorn.

her

glance could

transparency of

could

you

Her
her

dress

folds

and

richest

waist

silk,and

reaching below
the
The

and

face

her

and

and

dance
and

danger of

the

Her

faja,

the

while

in

feature

the

would

cealed
con-

round

sash,of

or

tunic, though
to

eye

delicate

cheeks

bodice, with

bosom.

perfection!
of

exchanged

by
relieved

which

velvet

where

! that

and

Avhich

mine
deter-

covered.
faultless

foot below.

had

that

peachy

youth

and

beauty

so

seldom

Hers

were

ful,
beauti-

regular,
purest elephant'sbone.
envied

have

for them

the

her

their

costliest

session,
pos-

jewels

crown.

drank
of

"

her
even

irresistible in

so

pi'oudestempress

She

of

terminated

teeth

dazzlinglywhite,

of her

the

sculptureof the limbs it

polished ankle developed into

rarely found

But
and

dark

colors;

oval, and

was

so

meet.

orbs

hair, fallingin

knee, permitted the

the

above, and

symmetry
blossom

dark

elaborate

slender

Her

varied

There

surmounted

was

circled with

was

heaven,

front,half revealed, half

swell

rapturous

delicate

The

in

of silver buttons

of

clouds.

brightesthues,
a

the

the blue

azure

coal-black

; and

when

save

displayall

neck,

pupilof

felt its terror.

you

Her

of

glossytransparency
the

the

in these

to

her

upon

handkerchief

row

The

through breaking

calculated

was

alternate

or

detected

you

within,like

voluptuous figure.

Madras

and

forego,though

not

undulating
its

part,

mysterious fascination

sport

all its visible

ball

the

her

hers.

revealed

momentarily

GIKL.

withstand

lashes lifted up,

long heavy

was

IS

subjectsof

as

comprised

eye

AS

GIRL

in for

few

admiration,more

then
the

for

"

"

an

eloquent in

addressed

herself

Ole,"the

favorite

which

fpecialite

moments

she

had

to

her

of

cense
flatteringin-

its

speechlessness

task.

She

was

to

Spanish audience,

(what they

unrivaled, inimitable

the

call in

talent.

Paris) une

THE

it

therefore

What

the Andalusians

riot of the

the

"

the

the

evolves

all the

sensual

in

and

dance

was

feet,like

they get

like the

lioness

of the

different

the

"

her

like vapor
as

he

veins, imbibes
nnd

and

the

; groans

stamps

with

stage ;
dance

and

harsh

floor

with

eye

like

each

her

her

an

amorous

tigress; now
expressingall

roared
the

With

of her

man

tiny

nomena
phe-

den
sud-

as
circle,

return, surcharging him

to

that

strutted

magnetic
excited

fluid which

system ; and

capes
es-

each

this

when

trembles

breath

from

feels

of

the heart.

phases of passion.

suddenly rebounds, again

with

art

head

neighed

now

approaches

career

union

the

in her

like the tamed

chafed

fierce

of

and

curled
beat

mewed

spring she

man,

for

up

it intoxicated

eye,

bay

at

action

inexpressive. No!
painting,a melody. It filled

poem,

now

stag

now

in her

indefinable

soul !

soulless

times

peacock ;

mysterious

is,in fine,the

It

dances

arms,

gitana at

same

dent
liquid eyes, dewy lips,arvoluptuous motion, that reaches,

soul,it pleased the

mare

It is the

taught by rule, and performed by

The

the

at

from

powers

such

is not

legs

like

is the combination

voluptuous

the

"

motion.

penetrates, frenzies every

the

fied.
grati-

governed respiration,
intoxicating perfume which

and

gestures, and

This

be

tense
in-

of the

sound

radiating

beauty

of

like this the

for it could

senses.

gestures

features; the

dances

public stage,

and

expression of

It

alluringbeyond imagination; passion

by disdain,stimulated by coquetry, maddened

desire

and

the

its chief charm

constitutes

defiant

awakened

the

22

DANCE.

occasions

on

motions, haughty and

of

time,

only

was

passionof

by

THE

is prohibitedon
representation

Its
and

OF

FRENZY

intoxicatingfluid penetrate his

feverish passions of the danseuse,
she trembles; respiresto her quick

with
her

her

; shouts

moans

rage ; in

delirium

with
of

her

cries,

transport

-'-' t

1HE

bravos

returns, in tempestuous
sounds

the

which

and

and

vociferation,

hoarse

the

glances which

the effects of

witnessed

excitinghachich

still more

the

intoxicate

I have

him.

liame

OLE.

but

"

inand

opium,

of their

nothing

equal to the delirium which seizes the Audaof this passionatedance.

the representation
on
too
happy that she took my chair for a few

influence
lusians
I

was

moments'

While

rest.

I stood

compliments,which

certain

condescension,and

with

she

the

her

by

side I undertook

received
air

same

with

pleased

glassof

Mausa-

nilla.
She

then

executed

of the

dance.

matters

not

while

her
"

She

as

the

of the

one

Yankee

b'hoys;"

deep

now
"

or

Then,

from

acts

of

one

of us,

time

before, like

time, as

favorite

makes

the

at
to

very
the

meet

pirouette,and with
side,coquettingsoon

artistic

humming-bird

or

the

pavement

I had

seen

reunions
art

; here

not
"

triumph

more

which

"

and

improvises

she

this feature

each

successful
hands

Ole at

ungracefullyexecuted.
inspiration.

to

La

But

sion
eva-

edge
acknowl-

the flower

scarcelyseemed
of the

other

the

did

bee

than

she

surely never

brush
lightly

crown

lous
equallycredu-

another

clapping of

her

seeming

the

courtesy, she

At

date,
candi-

to

daring jete-battugains

shouts, bravos, and

her

it were

as

Bull

John

between

first motion

again with
equally disappointed.

and

head, like

street.

interludes

she advances
self-coronation,
but

side,like

one

of Wall

out

dience
au-

covers

defeated

and

"

she

back, like

extreme

limping

to

on

it

"

the

the top of her

on

face

duck"

lame

hat

the

now

the
her

on

is intended

in which

manners

wears

on

near

one

quietly dancing, amuses

now

now

some

compliment

different

She

pleasingfigures

most

from

hat

no

gracefullyand
head.

and

took

whom,

by

of the

one

graze.
Girandilla's
there

it

was

i.'i.'0

THE

fandango,like the ole,is forbidden to be literally

rendered
the publicstage. Indeed, it requiresgreat
on
circumspection so to perform the latter as to avoid the
The

of

shock

delicacy.

seems

has, like the Grecian

exoteric

and

esoteric

an

It

the

uninitiated

soft

inexpressive beauties, awakening

thrillingwith
life.

untutored

But

of unloosened

it

zones,

and

enced
inexperi-

daring escalade,

sated ; of the

bed-chamber,

of

best

at

eloquentlyof passion

speaks too

excited,ungovernable,
dim-lit

dream

tions,
emo-

adventure, to those,

of wider

those

to

sensations, or

desires,the

innocent

encouraging

it

gracefulundulations,of poeticalpostures,

series of

of

the

To

sense.

philosophy,

reluctance.

conquered

performance,I had, with Mr. Peickler's

assistance, improvised a supper
fruits,dulces, and
wine ; and, the spectators having generallydispersed,I
the

During

"

down

to

friends.

We

sat

four of
I took
and

us

the table

the man,
has not

"

shared

with

with

and

its

sparkleof
and

siren.

In

It

eye,

enthusiasm

of the

beau

should

girl herself,and
was

her

aroma

doubtless

not

been

most

on

novio.

I could

moment
n'arrete

have

indignantly

It

was

not

not

dans

pas

si

aspired still

rebuked

savagely envisaged by

desperado opposite,whom
Avard

the

was

as

me.

with

what

help kissingher hand, and,

higher, -had

cates
that intoxi-

forgot Mr. Peickler's premonitions,

myself making desperate love to the

found

chemin,

with

so

was

who
of his

contents

behind

aroma

envy

his name,"

girlthe

spiteof myself:

her

the

an

evening,

I don't

hers.

or

glass.

same

of the

star

title,proud

beautiful

perfume.

the

the

their

three

glasses,so

from

from

his

lipsleave

in

away

to

drink

high though

wine-glass. Her
carried

to

of

drink

sit next

to

care

ballet-troupeand

short

obliged to
happy

too

was

the

rather

were

were

good

with

by
a

I found
worth

the

lent-looking
trucu-

after-

while,

1'EICK.KKK'S

MK.

thought,

risk

for

the

of

lips

to

of

kiss

and

regrets,

my

After
I

once

The

more.

and

he

Spanish

it

have
this

by

could

be

restriction

dancers.
him

that

ladies,
As

not

as

could

take

such

too.

tempted."

for

witness

home,
his

"

So

protested

the

fandango

told

had

time

danced
retired

all

performed

his

without

imposed

the

upon

and

courtesy,

nothing

me

telling

indelicate

too

for

offer.

returned
after

or

nectar.

occasion

had

presence
him

the

think,
to

so

thanked

declined

we

presence,
be

their

graceful

the

now

"

the

knives

customs,

of

would

ladies

said

distilled

empresario
he

wished,

horrid

and

small

they
of

those

excused.

was

the

supper,
if

that

though
ignorance

my

of

one

however

hand,

indeed,

pleaded

from

stab

22I

R"MON8XBAN"E.

caution,

liberty
did

not

said

companion

my

would

with

think,"

be

the

so

he
indiscreet
in

danseuse,
I

replied,

did

"

such

should

XXII.

CHAPTER

BIDE

CORDOVA

TO

CARMOXA
ECIJA"

CORDOVA

to

THOUGHT

visit

Cordova

It

pana.
could

was

itself

reconcile

without

sails,goes
invention

an

been
every

their

in

vessels

languid
many
It

as

about

miles

roads, and

As

progress.
for

more

the

furnished

the

and

Carmona

place

with
a

is

one

from

soil, the

of

ing
hav-

foundation

by

the

probable
Carmona,

Over

but

which

such

moderate
done

has
than

"

been

completed.

made

Spain

have

it is

Seville.

we

quered
con-

about

is affected

general rule, nature

highways

upon

move

reached

we

teams,

tide,

themselves

to

atmosphere,

distant

such

Spain

when

sunset

and

looked

railways

in

elapse before

vessel,"

by degrees they

Even

the

"A

crossed

ventured

thing

of

mind

first steamboat

and

"

But

sails.

Spanish

They

; the

one.

every

will

twenty

some

saw

indolence

years

the

the

de Es-

against wind

goes

prejudices,and

but

was

that

of

and

cosa

steamboat.

England

without

planned,

to

before

heretics

of

they

time

"

days,

coupe

is not

railway

POSADA

few

the

in

against God."

from

sent

time

"

for

place

AT

MOSQUE.

THE

"

scene

long

ADVEXTTRE

"

HISTORY

the

started.

Spaniards,

as

ITS

took

said the

it

LCISIAXA

"

vary
I

"

diligence,and

LA

"

much

It

man.

he

has

has
cepted
ac-

neglected.
lias

visited

as

much

in

Spain.

of

The

Moorish
massive

look

as

walls

any
and

229

CAKMOXA.

arches, the Alcazar

picturesqueruin

"

all constructed

were

vestiges; Caesar

Roman

the

occupied
mistresses

and

castle
much

as

"

fasten

it

taken

was

and

the

them

it

Don

as

Pedro
for

others

out

Ferdinand, after
and

defense,

las
"

During the
the key to

here.
considered

was

San

by

sanguinary

in

It

hangs

fastnesses

treasures

of the Moors

domination

ing
city, dur-

Pompey.

eagle.

an

of

one

to

of

also

are

precipitoushill,and

chiefest

his

guarded

Seville ;

as

There

sons

eyrie of

like the

road

the

over

of

summit

the

crowns

the gates,

fortified the

having

against the

campaign

his

Moors.

the

by

and

"

Seville

stinate
ob-

an

speedily

surrendered.
It has

beautiful Alameda

view

and

the

The

Ronda

look

rising sun,
simile I have

with

was

of the

middle

but

Sierra

populate

to

last

Mancha,

and

"

which

Morena,

the

orange

thick

minister

this

their

day

it,about

the

Germans

place

Andalusia

the

to

from

population and

sparse

sown

of the

of

colonies
from

now

deserted

; after

redeem

and

divides

is but

there

Moors,

century, with

effort failed

the

the

by

posts (a

and

the

sterility.The

into

attempt

an

under

olive,and

the

palm,
expulsionit fell

advanced

of

uncultivated

an

now

garden,

the

made

saluted

before).

used

Vega beyond,

waste,

the

sentinels

like

"

grandly picturesque.
Alpujarras which protect

distinctlyvisible,and,

are

hills

the

among

is

heights

and

barriers

Grenada

The

its

from

cradled

La

general

beggary.
The

ride

to

La

by incident, and
not

have
of

none

and

Luisiana, though
unadorned

by

been

the

that

thick

availed
with

stones

no

highways

on

"

and

it

cottages, would

neat

for

disagreeable but
diligence. It had

uncharacterized

was

the

villainous

springs,or
broken

up

at

with

ing
joltleast
ruts

impossibleto keep

230

the

This

seat.

your

marred

; under

scene

nature,

though

images

and

early summer's

an

deserted

night

sole

at

once

posada

of Gil Bias
fated

be

not

to

have

it

sorts

of

bound

saw

of

be

obliged

all

were,

the

sometimes

was

and
far

as

one,

times

large

of all

said,"were

in the

hood."
neighbor-

of

dark-eyed

number

and
difficulty,

in

be
how
hold

to

later

in

gaging
en-

then

night,

at

with

nine

points

many

other

he

me.

in

the

points
against

room

my

the

even

somebody

quarter

determined

landlord

the

amined,
ex-

end, in which

one

day

came

to

as

comers.

One

thing
toward

poor,

the

I noticed

spurned.
harsher
But
the

host

our

early that impressed

:

he

functionary

politeness. If
no

it

sion
mis-

my

pesetas that I succeeded

Possession, I thought, would

law ; and
though uncertain
there

the

rough

to

landlord

without

if others

insistingthat

the

myself;

to

room

to

nearly full,and

next

them

of additional

promise

determined

many,

at

whom,

not

was

were

was

held

he

as

alcove

among

It

one

brick,each

house

fair to be

muchacas.

should

The

people,most
to

There
with

bed.

tered,
bat-

so

from

down

come

such

was

encounter.

the

was

inns, otherwise

country

containing an
stood

complete.

all floored

rooms,

Andalusia,

is full of redolent

man,

Besides, I wanted

must
as

"

of

Luisiana,uninvitingthough

of these

one

would
The

La

at

seemed.

posada

by

in

sun

enjoyments. But
dislocated,that I

serene

bruised, and
stop the

picturesqueloveliness

the

the latter

Poverty, the
feature

here,

and

pauper

and

the

was

not

that

receive

beggar,

rich and

with

harbored, he

it makes

I found

is not

to

tells

moralist

Roman

than
as

seemed

man

afterward

despised.

He

ably
favor-

me

equal
was

us,

not

has

ible.
contemptmore

erally,
gen-

gains good

THE

if not

words,
that the

ready
Edie

of

Ochiltree

Homeric

honor

the

and

in

"

some

thanks

many

to accept
discourtesy,

dressed

majo

en

los Estados
with

there

was

of the

giving to

him

bore

Las

each

to

if

as

the

fusillade

capita of Montillo

sent

to

by

me

that
in

friendship.

Espanas.
"

other,with

low

the

well

in it.

One

as

"

as,

pretty

; but

I took

doubtless, T should

have

no

Don

gratias;"

salams.
round
curious

might

but

"

muchacha

old

to

me

Gracias, Senor

some

see

citizen

country respected

muchissimas

"

the

as
gratefully,

most

our
"

son
per-

"mozos"

if he wished

that

; but

I directed

American

an

of

fear

Caballero

the

hoped

he

was

saluted

which

of the

one

of

offering
right and

some

obliged,from

was

gentleman with
father, I thought, or, perhaps, more
:
Why, he is not so dark as
to

say

rather

less

one

immediately

was

in the world

as

to

; but

expecting to

malicious
to

"

seemed

you

down

sat

such, I should

as

nation

as

drank

me,

dignified,if

whom

the girls,
turned
guests, particularly
at

district"

I declined

Caballero^ replied he
we

the
news-carrier,

as

"

one

his rounds

another.

Unidos

no

much

so

beard

that I

him

inform

to

drink

the

more

than

kept

listed comer?"

with a message
(waiters),
Inglesewould pledge him

de

who

was

supper.

of "Guste

shower

left,with

tnozo

"

eating-room,and

thing, and

one

More

the historian

Nestor

tables,to order
a

is

yourself.

I entered

with

Spain,

expressionand

garrulous than

the

in

saw

sometimes

in

condition,maintains

others.

to

particularspace,

follows,

consequence

in his lowest

their due
I

minstrel,and

to

natural

sell-respect
; and, feelingthat,

concede

to

within

The

alms.

beggar, even

degree

231

MUCHACHA.

oi'the

Many
and

looked

monster.

it had
kind

was

ing
noth-

enough

her, probably

probably
we

are

!"

particularnotice

done, could

and

I have

her
She

her
band
huswas

of her ;
foreseen

232

NIGHT

"

in what

very

we

so

soon

were

After

at

to

Penaflor, and

the

beginning

"

room,

found, had
it

to fasten

had

Not

the

and
to

retire.

The

nor

chance

of

that

that

condition

awake, you
Avas

the

noise

result

guest

of the

upon

bed
rob

"

with

voice

Quien
the
"

me

husband's

light,and

she

my

sounded,

it

do

was

am

the

Upon
sob

free

or

to

was

to

sleep

of

tion.
posi-

after

had

Dios

wait

sharp

full

to

I started
one

fully

of feet

sound
as

sciousness,
con-

on

the

from

the

entered

to

exclaimed

/"

robber

a
"

tne

this

was

my

I told her

the

till I struck

her

to

to

show
not

swear

suppressed laughter I
certainlywas
much

"

experienced

this,I would

confess,

on

not

even

however,

endeavor

visitor ; it

the

"

chamber

my

midnight
supposed

I would

room.

"

taken.

lie down

you

shah1 I do ?"

What
could

some

?"

mistaken.

invisible
I

me,

exclaimed,

of

that

that then

husband's

whether

is there

room.

thing

roused

?"

es

person,

be

imagination.

the
distinguished

soft for
am

what

or

suppositionthat

engano.

Who

"

too

of sensation

lord.
land-

semi-consciousness

which,

tell whether

not

able
un-

bed-clothes

entered

in

my

was

my

I did

of

of

frequentchange

had

mind

door
so

the

state

one

chamber
and

floor.

some

of the

can

in the

in

or

fatigues

bolt ;

outside, only partiallyundressed.

dreamt,

the

I would

with

caballeros

little would

concluded

"

imagined,

from

lock

ettes
cigar-

the

to

little of value

particularly I

her

with
from

appearance

Gil Bias's

numerous

drowsy

and
soundly, but fitfully,

best

of

feel

apprehensionsthat

no

(nowhere

trout

expensive as

so

returned

neither

I had

liking the

sheets

not

against any

However,

nice

some

consumption

ride, I concluded

of my

and

again.

meet

I received

which

present

peculiarlyperplexing predicament"

on
lightsupper
in Spain),and

than

better

ADVE.VTl.JtK.

more

heard

one,

like

and
the

234

strikingappearance

; and

together with

the

of

guilt

naked

sword

life in

all the

events

like

this

to

between

time

better

record.
horse

his neck

as

we

drawn

dagger,

husband
abuse

by

mistake

room.

How

Caballero
looked
suppose

ready

loaded

near

dared

unloaded),would
paralyticold

man.

was

felt

Caballero

attire ?
little

(The

smiled

the

at

raked

her

knife

calallero

of

and

oftener
he

or

meant

to

way

himself

some

before

(Her

in

husband

abashed.)

Americano,

such

31 y

him.

just returned, and

of the right hand

pillow (as indeed

fear

el

foot upon

what

her

on

present

was

discharge

him

she had

to

"

fired

been

asked

in such

his

mind

rattlingmusketry,

left instead

legs,and

that the

She

which

Americano

at his

cape,
es-

cedent
ante-

my

She

incessant

like

she

the

he

of

upon

soul,

have

not

when

taken

in

minutes

details

point."

an

him

effect.

place from

necessary

its

left with

Bragg's battery could

produced greater
by followingher

pented
re-

peril and

impressed

Platonic

defied

and

fell upon

words

Five

she places her

literally,
would
say, she henpecked

right and
:

full and

"

pretty friend,like Cato's

uted
contrib-

Fortunately, the gray mare

as
they say in Spain, 1^ pone

or,

"

el pesciiezo

en

been

of

sight

transmitted

are

minute

the most

had

in

extreme

my

cerned,
con-

supposed my

cognizance !

your

color

body of my previous
telegraphicdispatcli

career

past

your

meet-

was

man,

never

the

of

adventures
in luminous

in

what

in that

and

pie

I had

singularwith

intervene

not

infuriated

an

I reviewed

done

deeds

; it is

moments

the

of

as

the

declare,

to

me

far

so

fact,

the

countenances

our

greater danger, and

existence

night, the place of

reduce.

to

all the

did

to

hands

in the
much

very

lent

compels

truth

of that

the consciousness

color,however, which,

"

.MAKE.

of the

hour

have

ting,etc., may

OKAY

Did

he

who

had

they

were,

only

the

hand

of

grinned

with

pistols

spite.)

AN

Did

know

he not

looked

ought

only

as

Spaniard,and

and

as

for his

pardon

ask my

to

thank

to

los Estados

peoplede

embrace

not
hidalgocertainly,
but
injurioussuspicions,
a

for my

me

delicate

than

other

she

which

person,

would

dress

and

apparent forwardness

This

last

argument

mistake,

of her
my

regards to

He

muttered

apology

her

clincher

it

in

in the

condition.

have

might

malediction, and

making

address

to

adventure

myself

and

the

once

inclination

escape,

and

But

the

(Anglice,fleas)

murdered

"

pulgas

with

room

sleep.

to

more

passed for

an

partlyexculpatory,partly defiant,left the

for my
the lady. I gave
thanks
double
tried

cence
inno-

naturallyattracted

unencumbered
which

light

doing.
Signor

the

to

reallybelieved

somewhat

her

justifiedme

because

or

something
or

immediately procuring
improper liberties with

acknowledge
a

he

because

Don, whether

an

seemed

hands,

of

taken

have

her

ward
to-

when, had I been

and

"

instead

gentleman,

light,I might

her

the dark

encountering in

were

conduct

from

her, while, her lamp having fallen

we

Uniclos

the

cut

He

that the

longest knives in the hollow of their backs,

sticks ?
as they whittled
(The caballero
up men
half maliciouslyand half apprehensively.)
at me

carried
and

235

ESCAPE.

sleep."
When

the caballero

would

have

of

landlord

the

honest
dero"

in the

arose

person,

landlord
"Do

think

you
"

ought

not

bulls

added,
Dios
to

he

because

meeting

parties. I inquired

all

replied.

He

Men?

de

"Ilombre

was.

learn that

glad to

was

"

was

for
"He

he

las
was

has

very
cause

any

sabe," he

have

corridas

de

toros

jealous
for

"

yana-

and

of his

replied, Qiiien sabe

expected

any

other

answer.

the

wife."

jealousy?"

"

an

dant,
descen-

cattle,and, like Columbus's

of

owner

raised

he

gone,

for

awkward
who

of

had

sposa

been

sort
"

su

morning

quired.
T in-

f" I

L':.:t3

ECIJA.

"We

reached

pleasantlysituated
wealth

of waters

junction with
in

associations.

historical

Moor
But

her ; and
the

the

where

it must

as

if he

mayoral

have

se," he

no

as

he lived

like the
he.

half

one

I
priests,

"Todos

None

I
del

not

was

sorry

Espinal,or

whence

the

like

emerging

from

its

the
Thorn

could

and

its domes

Its many
of

box

sight
"

"

No

thieves."

of the
Mount

and

Cuesta

Pisgah

"

palm-trees with
in the rays
to

the sunbeams
before

of my
oro

the

seen.
distinctly
indeed, it mostly is ;

gold enriched

todo

and

todos

"

spirespointed

attention
es

don't

be

Moscow,
Phillipps'

I called the

be

them," said

luminous

mosques,

The

their faith.

"

city,as,

You

prieststhan

summit

its olive

"

"

putaneros

their

"

Yb

likelyto

as

"Like

less with

Cordova

among

Counselor

the

or

Oriental

an

just

son

"

shoulder.

women-seekers,

of the

Hill

visited it.
to

it is

mio."

reach

to

setting sun.

heavens, and

just as

of his

todos

"

walls, its minarets

of the

evidentlyMoorish.

amigo

Spain

house,

eighteen centuries

see,

"

thentic
au-

I asked

identical

things they say."

promised

It looked

the

was

the

of

people

Mancha.

than

there, and

all rogues,

"

in the

sat

in La

greater liberties with

take

common

the

shrug

sonpicaros

ladrones

son

place pointed out

have
lodged ; just as

more

was

repliedwith

priestssay
true

built

its architecture

and

ago,

visited

once

of

supposed that

been

city.

the

said to

was

the

box

Quixote's house

Don

as

the

he

St. Paul
I

rich

proud
Goth, and

embellished

whom

I entered

diligence,as

house

with

mayoral,

those

oil,and

Roman,

alternatelyoccupied and
her
chiefest boast
is,that

remaining

in

is rich

The

ute
trib-

it effects too

wine, and

corn,

It is

pays

its

pours

Ecija

Darro.

of nature,

productions

then

Grenada, where

upon

the

Genii, which

the river

on

Guadalquiver,and

the

to

after breakfast.

hours

Ecija some

lo que

the

;"

Napoleon

friend

on

the

reluce," said

237

COU0OVA.

I inferred

he, sententiously whence

"

outside
As
to

than
the

stop,

narrow,

mean,

every

thing.

of

with

posada
sounds

thoughts,

case.

I concluded
I had

town,
rode

we

and

fill

dirty, and
few

sons
perthe

beggars
diligence to

our

"

Such

melancholy

bed

my

the

sightsand

with

one

early sought

an

through,

but

saw

cries.

importunate
to

better

inevitable

pursued

enough

and

We

the

save

whom

most

were

of the

streets

great

streets,

active

end

of it as

decay covering
in the

where
diligence,

deal

see

the

reallythe

was

the further

at

was

found

most

of the

posada

opportunity to
and

Which

within.

it looked

in

jected
de-

quite

humor.
But

the
of my

prepared

mind

have

well

as

look

to

Cordova
to

Andalusian

morning

rests

things more

upon

the

from

of the

provisionof Nature,
flow

to

and

it

famous

its

illustrious

ows
shad-

of

night, and

embrace

to

course

illustrations of

many

No

dispersedthe

was

benignantly.
Guadalquiver, Avhich seems

has caused

which

past cities."

varied

those

as

upon

deflected

affordingone

sun

in

place

Under

prosperous

; It

that

"

wise

generally
boast

can

the

thus

"

rivers

Spain

annals.

it

so

Carthaginian
O

was

some

and

of his best soldiers and

taken

to

death

and

twenty

cities from

such

half

squandered
early Caesars

obstinate

defense.

can

were

born

its
Under

of the poor
the

and

in

sieged,
be-

was

who

It

put

rebuilt

was

nobilityof Rome,
the

wealth

empire.

enriched

philosophicSeneca

here, and

; it

citizens,to deter other

provinces the

capitalof

it cultivated
The

funds

Pompey

destroyed by Caasar,
of its

in the

useful arts.

liberal

thousand

re-peopledby some
sought to regain in

furnished

and

their pages

the
the

have

and
who
had

they

the

Under

polite and
poet Luorated
commem-

glories.

the

Gothic

dominion

it still maintained

su-

238

ABDERAHMAN

eminent

made

it the

756, Abderahman

Omeyah

dynasty, embellished

romance

equals the
who

of

who

cousin
the

was

Merwan,

of

son

the Abasside

by

friend

their order

for

under

was

wealth,

and

after

the

deserts

Moavia,
of

ury,
lux-

his

of but

the

the
who

was

his

early in

twenty

Warned

Syria,with

years,

the

by

throne,

few

Here,

for

trusty

his

pursuitof

life,

faithful followers,

incredible

almost

of Arabia.

son

exception of himself,

in hot

were

No

while

familyfrom

death.

many

it.

was

Damascus,

at

of it, with
to

who

the

ahman,
Abder-

Abdelmelic,

youth

drove

put

aggrandized

powerful empire

that

while

capital of

of his fortunes.

born

disguisefrom

in

reached

son

the murderers

that

fled

he

the

usurpers

member

every

was

of

was

eighth century,

and

son

caliph of

was

and

narrative

the

was

Hixem,

the

it

science.

and
In

most

that it became

the Moors

FIRST.

cities ; but

Iberian

the

among

premacy

T11K

escapes,

time,

some

and
predatory
companion of the nomadic
Bedouin, sharing his dangers, partaking of his sports,
his precariousfare.
No
and subsistingupon
place was
He changed his restingsafe to him ; no night secure.

he

the

was

stant
by conplaceeach day, and sleptin his saddle. Harassed
pursuit,and more
exposed to capture while with

armed

he took

men,

his

of

leave

deeper disguise,sought refuge

the
upon

hills,watching
the and

and

of Barca

Governor

Abderahman's

asylum
favor

was

at

sacred

with

found

compelled
owed

House,

his hands.

the

shepherds

of

by day, arid couching

night. The persevering malice

plain at
he

among

assuming

flocks

hereditary enemies

of his

the

their

hosts, and

his
and

But

to

him

flee into

positionto

this obscurity,

The

Africa.
the

Caliphsof

fugitivehoped a sure
of gratitude,and of
forgetful
the

the
rightsof hospitality,
the usurpers,

in

even

directed

governor

all his alcaldes

gain

to
to

use

239

FIDELITY.

effort to seize the

every

up

of

emissaries

the

to

royal youth, and deliver him

the caliph. Meanwhile, Abder-

good-willof the governor,

was
proceeding unguarded, and with great confidence,
he arrived,
meeting, wherever
through his territories,
relying

ahman,

reception and ready

courteous

his

the

upon

shelter.

misfortunes, his youth, the

and

certain

friends

majesty

into,and

royal birth,
his

of

graces

address, gained him

The

where.

every

entrance

of

His

his

through

allies and
of

apprised

governor,

progress

person,

dominions,

his
sent

roving partiesof soldieryto capture and bring him

of the Aduar, or Village
One
in.
night the Bedouins
Abderahman
had received
of Tents, in which
ity,
hospitalout,

greatly alarmed

by

the

partieswhile their guest was

fatigueof a hunting excursion

in

were

from

soldiery,if they

the

seen

them
the

he

that

; but

; and

valleyto

that
With

followingnight.
which

emissaries

his

that

day.

seen

any

sense

valleyat
he

He
of

some

would

To

the

inquiry

an

in their

where,

not

other

fugitive had
the

youths

distance
return

specificdirections

Abderahman,

danger.

his

the

departed, and

aroused

terms

deep sleep,from

accompanied

had

of the lion in

hunt

him

of these

one

they named)
the

of

derahman,
youth answering the descriptionof Abthey replied with ready subtlety,that they
him ; that he
then
even
was
living among

wanderings,
had

had

arrival

to

(which

until

the

find

out

the governor's

gone,

faithful Bedouins
and

expressed

obligation for

mediately
im-

communicated

in the
their

most

to

sincere

incorruptible

fidelity
; and

then, accompanied by six of the most

youth of the Aduar, left the tent, and,

by
remote

Four

the

deserts

days
journeyed

darkness

of

in the

night,sought

safetyfrom

his inveterate

and

nights,these

over

moving plainsand

bold

hearts

to

termined
detected
pro-

most

persecutors.
of the

hills of

desert

sands, with

240

HOSPITALITY.

the fierce

and
accompanying their flight,
hunger preying upon their vitals. In

of the lion

roar

thirst and

fiercer

Mauritania
of the

they

offered

tribe of Zeneta

refuge.

found

last

at

the

noble

sheik

fugitiveshis

house

tion.
staprotection,though ignorant of Abderahman's
fugitives
They were
; and
strangers ; they were
quainted
Abderahman, well acthey were
doubly welcome.

and

with
from

of
qualities

noble

the

his

indeed, through

whom,

unhesitatinglyavowed
and

sheiks,to

the

fortunes
"

to

his

Blessed

be

empires of

the

and
Allah

God
the

Lord

the

earth.

Thus

their

to

taken

are

alone

art

In

His

position,

and
fidelity

His

is

master

and

without

all."

author

as

he

of Abderahman's

incidents

plates
contem-

life ; and

he

proceeds to show, that having served

become
to misfortune,he had
apprenticeship
to

and

assume

While
with

Abderahman

the

him

to

of

them

; when

enter

among
The

asylum,

Spain

of

solicited

Temam

an

Ben

the

it

lection
recolnounced
an-

was

noble

most

audience.

Alcama,

the

He

bade

the most

erful
pow-

him:

the principal
Spain,and in their name
tribes belonging to Syria,Arabia, and

sent

for that

hospitality

secure

deputation of

proper

qualified

enjoying

was

them, thus addressed

Moslemah

Xeques
Egypt, have

found

mighty kingdom.

perilous adventures,

that

Moslemah

"

sheiks, and

his many

of

throne

had

now

generous

of

the

govern

ness
great-

pleasure. Oh,

eternal,and

over

all

are

eignty,
strength,sover-

at His

away

alone

hands

power,

will ;

speaks the pious Arabian

the eventful

as

scended,
de-

was

and

name

Kingdoms,

Thy empire

Thou

change.

his

tribe,

cause.

empire
!

he

mother,

pledged

man,

given according

are

Lord

Zeneta

the

of

us

thou

to

hast

offer

thee

not

only

already obtained

secure

in tho

pro-

"242

VICTOKY.

and
had

enterprise.The Sheik of Tahart, who

received
him, alone contributingfiftyhorse

for the

men

first

and

hundred

one

He

landed
such

but
well

of the

in civil

he

thousand

forth

proceeded

and

after

soon

the

of his

rival,
ar-

receive

and

its gates

him.

He

then

sanguinary

two

sought

marched

he

opened

made

as

wasted

these

after

who

"

well-appointedarmy

populationto

men

name,

week

With

men.

rebels

and

it ;

with

Cordova,

the

over

tyrants who

Seville,which

its

to

family and

broils,that,within

immediately upon
poured

thousand

one

of his

many

surrounded

was

twenty

less than

influence

the

hatred

as

men-at-arms.

or

Spain with

in

was

kingdom
of

lances

to

tories
vic-

relieve

it, captured

master

of all

himself

Moorish

Spain.
Having subdued
short

time, he

Infidels

the

domestic

spared

the

upon

oppositionwithin
the

frontiers

Moslem,
from

"

and

credibly
in-

an

smote

after

whom,

a
exterminating defeats,he extorted
heavy tribute as the priceof peace.
He then turned
his attention to the improvement of
his capital. He
the aquecaused
the highways and
ducts
of the Romans
to be
restored, and public gardens

several

almost

and
himself

walks

planted the

from

the

his

garden

on

its

growth.

and,

to

On

had

thoughtful,he

here

rendered
some

follows

thee

wont

than
to

the

"

gracefulpalm-tree, thou
with

the

breezes

breath

Spain ;

of

wave

love,

in

to watch

recollections
more

verses

He

erected

had

was

him

in

seen

he

he

stranger. "Western

Softlyaround

decorated.

palm-tree ever

occasion, when

Thou, also,fair and

Art

and

out

of the tower

composed

the first stanza

"

laid

Guadalquiver,
one

fairer Damascus

which

first

summit
the

be

of

usually
palm,

of

ARABIAN

Caressingthy
"Wherein
Thou

liftest

feel

Dost
To

thy

The

roots

good

and

and

his

and

barbarism

It

was

Arabian

and

of

vigor

attended
pure

for the
and

mathematics,
and

the

to

endowed

tournament,

respects, enduring
Abderahman

dynasty by
attracted
the most
and

to

for
of

to

the

the

supremacy
this

determined
the

schools

one,

body
of

erection

his court,

give
lously
sedu-

was

of
dialectics,
tuted
insti-

other, the

jereed, and

every

genius

supremacy,

dis-

in many

day.
to

of

"

chase,
other

In

Arabian

civil,the

profession,military or
incontestable

or

could

sedulously followed.

were
manly exercises,

played

All that

amenities

high philosophy,were
cast

all

less
piratesand relentcultivatingthe arts,

mind

; while

the

; and

of

the
illustrating

the

the

Norman

civil feuds

polishedlife.

elasticityto

and

respected every
ed
devastat-

Spain was

science, and

powerful

England
Heptarchy and

nest

developingpure
refinements

and

with

horrid

became

him

left it ;

inundated
a

Under

the

from

of the

wars

dynasty

slowly emerging

Caesar had

Europe
"

Spain

dreaded

was

of

of his faith.

annals

Germany

savage

banditti

alone

me

Arabian

atrocities ; France
Northern

home.

the founder

in the

in which

the

by

pain, to

was

descendants

While

abandoned

thine

"

enlightened.

where.

fair tree,

Forat's wave."

he

"

illustrious

most

Thou,

"

"

poet

Heaven.

head

accomplished prince of his age

wise statesman
sician
an
unequaled mu-

most

soldier

soil

of long regret for thy fair sisters,

tears

the

was

; rich the

prospering, and thy

are

to

that

Blooming by

He

beauty

grieffor

alone

me

soft

high

no

243

GENIUS.

an

inaugurate his reign and

unequaled

by promise

of

cunning artificers of Syria as

the result of their handiwork

He

mosque.

large reward,
well

is the

as

of

all

Spain;

admiration

as

244

OF

MOSQUE

of

much

mutilated
hand

of

plan

the

present

and

denuded

though

drawn

resemble

greater

extent

than

He

xxxiv.)

was

House

Caaba

carried

ai'tificers. It

hundred

The

massive

the

of solid

The
of

atanor

else in

Europe

This
the

gilded

balls

them

Two

gold.

noble

dred
hun-

two

roof

placed

was

thousand

find,in

Rome

or

ble.
mar-

teen
nine-

of

edifice,
having

evening

prayer.

oratory,

eighth century,
?

now

show

the

Stras-

Can

thing

any

survived

was

Where

design.

the

granate
pome-

hundred

seven

of the

Where

even,

the

surmounted

of marvelous

you

structure

burg, or York,

long, and

metal

above

would

glorious a

so

the

among

plates of wonderful
principal gate being plated with

large,and

very

"

hour

supporting the

lighted for the time

of the Mirab, or lamp

were

gold

feet

the

to

gence
greatest dili-

the

an

columns

with

Three

gold.

of

equal the

and
of finest
ninety-three,
entrance
was
approached by

highest cupola, and

lamps

be

and

portals,covered
"

the

veneration.

utmost

daily for

The

southern

workmanship

and

object,next

with

work

six hundred

ten

were

intended

that it should

Moslem's

himself

wide.
fifty

said that the

Damascus,

the

"

the

and

the rude

by

magnificence (Conde, chap,

of the

was

been

age,

Bagdad, which, also,it was

desirous

forward

working

"

that of

Jerusalem

Mecca,

at

of

that

even

of

it has

It has been

splendor and

in

surpass

cotemporaneous

king himself,who

the

by

should

He

the

unenlightenedtaste.

was

Holy

of

as

mosque

to

ABDEKAHMAN.

able?
compar-

outrages of

Berbers

overran
(barbarians from Africa who
Andalusia)and of the reconquering Goths, still stands

in the first rank

as

into
and

ornament

forest
small

than

of Moorish
or

grove

that
use.

of delicate

they
You

architecture.

appear
are

You

enter

so
pillars,
ent
transpar-

to

reminded

rather

serve

of

for

Druidical

ABDEKAHMAN

temple,where

trunks

of

indifferent resemblance

no

And

of the

roof.

monks

flit past

245

THIRD.

gracefuland harmonious
overhanging canopy of leafybranches

support the

oaks
"

the

THE

as

carving

of the cowled

imagination called up
of
those
ancient
ministers
idolatrous
rites stealing
through the grove and preparing incantations.
cathedral
from the glare of
or
Entering this mosque
the

pillars,
my

Spanish sky, you

so

"

windows
dim

to

lightattunes
of

the

through

the

Abderahman
the

render

the

Three

miles

and

Ommeyau
from

twenty-five years,

and

gold

and

the

invisible

of his
with

shone

guard,

gems

and

the

the

in

gold

twelve

gold.

sat

In

out

; and

thousand

sought

and

decorated

basin
of

trees

melodious

the

belts

strong,

with
in the

gold

birds

and

of the
sounds

pavilionof
with

conversed

the

"

ling.
ster-

inlaid

was

secluded

from

to

devoted

millions

various
out

acceded

he

marble

quicksilver. His

His

you

citypalace and

marble

monarch

threw

ity
solemn-

marble, Spanish and

with

gave

water, but the purest

attendants

and

machinery.

a fountain
favorites*

the

of Audience

branches

from

This

illustrious

more

three

of

surrounded

costlymaterial, who

not

still

sustained
Italian,

pearls;

where

tive
diminu-

who

"

century,

than

more

same

garden,

ninth

he built

Hall

patio,or court, was

whose
silver,upon

the

the third

columns

and

costliest

light

mocking,

their construction

hundred

buildings. The

ness
dark-

subdued.

name

Cordova

African,Grecian

the

stillness and

entered

dynasty
To

Twelve

the

to

if you

of that

of Jehra.

gardens

the

soul

early in

throne

in

softened

deep-stainedglass of

your

"

of the

contrast

pensive,and depart

remain

first involved

garish effulgence of day.

the

place;

at

seem

is the

strong

admitted

to

the

shadows

the

saw

the fantastic

to

his

basin,

officers and

and
were

cimeters
studded

seraglio,consistingof

his

246

He

of six thousand

was

Augustan

age

of Arabic

the very

catalogue

adjacent

towns

of

list of

seventy

or

public

days, and

thousand

the

was

volumes

and

hundred

three

libraries

Murcia,
writers

in

opened

were

and

we

advanced.

Euclid

Hippocrates,

and

Averroes

Aristotle,and

gave

commenteo

of his
to

of
to

of Plato

into

put forth

and

to

Arabic,

Commentary

the

feo," says Dante ;

infernal circles,
because

and

upon

Stagiritehis
"

strengthened.

have

not

co-

II gran

places him in one

too
was
enlightened

who
he

of the times, miscalled

superstition
Christianity. Avicenna
developed the science
medicine
Catholic princes were
always eager
; and

believe

in that

intrust their

gross

the

to

cure

illustration of which
in his

of that

'

science

human

their

and

utilized.

those

who

watched

Arabs

held

Scott

of the

origin to

reached

never

body, botany,

same

One

its

owes

skill of the Arabs

Sir Walter

Talisman.'

though anatomy
under
them, from

the

works

translated

meaning

could

The

were

Apollonius,of Galen, Ptolemy,

were

familiarized.

temporaries

the

Eight centuries have elapsed since

are
just beginning to imitate this

and

of
Aristotle,

duced
pro-

; and

example of the followers of Mohammed.

Philosophy, mathematics, physic and astronomy
all cultivated

"

required forty-four. The

Malaga, Almeria,
than

cities of Andalusia.
these

of which

his

It is said that his

literature.

six hundred

more

more

learned,and

of the

patron
of

to

persons.

the

libraryconsisted

eunuchs, amounted

black

wives, concubines, and

upward

SCIENCE.

AXD

LEARNING

three

the

its

The
their

other

handmaids

Arabians

flocks

; and

perfectcondition

handmaid,

earliest

tous
feliciduced
intro-

has

for the

superstitiousreverence
the

"

vated
culti-

was

astronomers

by night ;

were

and

the

level ground, with

possession of the same
Chaldean
unclouded
the
horizon, whence

times.

of the

most

reliable

been

comprehended,

Abderahman
of about

and

Europe

manufactures, and
the

and

the

hamlets,

I have

above

"

lic
Catho-

Agriculture,
and

enriched
three

Abderahman

dred
hun-

and

thousand
would

the

and
villages
elude

now

allies.

Riches

waited

on

I have

in

fiftyyears,

have

by
and

victory or

the

authentic

call,nor

my

does

wanting to
diligentlynumbered

happiness

which

in this

beloved

by
respected by

and

the

have

man

to

place not

It is much

to

those

royal philosopherforbore to
fourteen
days were
happy ; such

might

have

of greater

his

querulous confidence

do

not

believe

views
man

we

of life.
than

are

advantage

of half
any

better

It is true,

Abderahman,

who

to

and
lot

my

that the

been

my

this situation

of pure

days

fallen

present world."

my

pleasure,have

felicity.In

my

"

earthlyblessingappear

any

Oh,

FOURTEEN.

to

peace,

honors, power

ment
docu-

Abderahman

enemies, and

my

been

amount

I recite the

in the closet of the deceased

subjects,dreaded

to

sum,

the faith of Mohammed,

past twelve

reigned"

now

found
"

the

patientresearch.

most
"

"

of the

and
first,

site of which

very

from

dominions

time.

cities of the

Guadalquiver flowed

not

kingdom

tributes

flourished

tributary to

were

his

revenue

class,followed

inferior

an

his

the

at

commerce,

people. Eighty
of

from

revenue

princes neighboring
doubtless, exceeding the united
of

had

defective.

been

Christian

monarchs

the

were

solar system

besides
sterling,

six millions

ical
astronom-

data, independent of its

all

received

the

Samarcand

The

necessarilyhave

truth, must

; and

Bagdad, Spain,and

of

247

their observations

shepherds made
tables

HAPPINESS?

IS

WHAT

they

"

thy

dence
confi-

be regretted

tell
a

uine
gen-

us

why

revelation

mankind

than
I

century's misery.
from

wiser
could

these
and

more

ing
disparagful
power-

boast,too,

of

as

"248

DESOLATION.

wives

many

all is

vanity."

As

"

are.

of Abderahman's

days

outnumber

man

deal

have

of latent

chemist

because

the

I believe

trite

souvenir, and
But
of

science

the

"

now

baths

her

are

Where

hope,

schools

of

in

skilled

from

carries

his

have, but

we

For

content.

us

"

and

the

upon

at

past,

The

night

of

grass
hoots

and
?

gold

embowered

grows
from

hundred

stones

and,

alas !

in her
her

"

and

of

seat

beautiful

mosques

nine

inestimable

her

and

the

"

thousand

six hundred
"

arts

hundred

metropolis

The

the

"

mines

her

gardens
dark-eyed maidens
men

into

piness.
capacityof hap-

chivalry

twelve

her

Where

"

bird

of

cradle

pearls,corals,and

her

ious
ingen-

happy days

protectress of

the

"

public

"

the

man

makes

that

or

derive

can

from

mineral

what

many
a

upon

is

secure."

edifices ?

her

lived

more

nation

Where

As

every

fallen is Cordova
fallen,fallen,

her

how,

the

It is not

repinefor, that

part, I have

least,is

know

heart,

saying,that

hands.

own

don't

own

my

extract

he, well

that

seemingly desperate

in his
we"

don't

poisonous

of the human

science

It is

happy

my

opinion,there

don't

we

converts

circumstances

what

In my

happiness we

salutarymedicine, so

fate

battles,but

no

sympathetic temperament.

no

the occult

fought

youth upward,

my

sabe ?

Quien

things ; perhaps
we

addicted

been

ever

boast

not

can

Spanish caliph's.His very power,

pursuitsmay have been the whips to

him.

great

matters

the

pleasures,and
scourge

have

I have

from

of peace

been

and

revenue,

celibacy; although

to

all mundane

of course,

ities,
van-

in relation

meant

singleself,"although I

for my

of

"Vanity

"

he doubtless

But

things eternal, as,

to

said

concubines,has

and

city!
private

her

pitals
hos-

aromatic
silver

"

her

Where

her
ervoirs
res-

walks

Where

where,

oh

! where

streets

"

palaces,and

the obscene
Desolation

CHAPTER

EXOBDItTM

SHOUT

XXIII.

DOLOBES

"

OF

who

THEY

have

abstraction

heart, you
of the

another

considerations.

It

all

As

sexes.

the

the

charms
there

Such
as

at

to

least

I arrived

at

aromatic

house.
with

momentous

made

and

His

butes,
attri-

feel for

we

of personal
In

away.

either

accessories, surroundings, incentives

make

it

and

warm

the

were

the

of

long

so

exhibition

passeth

soon

the

between

is inert

contemplation
speak profanely) the love
the

its

are

daily life,and

Creator

from

things

as

relation

the

the

bear

of

standing among

Orange-trees
while

the marble
and

permanent.

thoughts

residence

plants in

perfume,

his

ministers

with

finite

rapid

her

contemplated
and

The

senses.

world,

we

be

must

devotion,

to

to

is

to

exploited this truth, and

arising merely

creature

case

his

inanimate

an

penetrate

interpenetratesour

love

(not to

so

seize

would

it influence

does

it is limited

as

will not

of

creature

philosophy solely conversant

appertaining to
of

is not

mind's

the

Christianity.

to

is such

most

he

faith have

antique

6TOBT

THE

"

over

man

first subdue

must

it subservient
Nor

command

that, if you

; but

CATALIXA

"

LITE.

that

That

intelligence.

pure

HEB

acquired

will tell you

revelations

TUEATEB

THB

"

the

melodious

mirrored

Dolores
the

"

birds

my

and,

flowering

patio,
azahdr

in

or

unseen,

shrubs

court, of her

loaded
from

mind

the
an

air

aviary

:"r"]

DIPLOMACY.

beneath

awning

An

the

protected

of the

gaze

from

piazzasang

the

of

excess

from

scene

mellowed

and

sun,

mere

the

its

by

gladness.
ardent

too

the
interposition

baslight. Cleanly dressed in her nice-fitting

quina, her glossy hair simply arranged, and her tiny
foot just peeping out
Dolores
not
to be
was
more
sobered

"

dreaded

if,with

than

caught, like

Dulcinea

ah1 her

beauty, she

by Sancho,

at the

her?
The
filthyaccessories around
of dazzling whiteness, the flowers,
of

song

birds, Avould
the

all these

not

sentiment

of

create

and

illustrating
personal comeliness

like,is colored
I
of

thought

She

rtient

I had
Not

her.

in her

that

look

the

May

I would
I knew

in

once

that

not

to

or

"

and

it.

surround

somewhat

manner

with

that

empressetoward

other

of

than

of nor'-easter

thought
her

it

humor

varium

et

ever,
best, howI

without
was

seemed

easy

perceived that
the

to

much

for that.

and

she

fluency,I

giving her

conscious
much

of

the
her

mutdi-

sex

has

cause

conducted

Indulge a
bagged

my

when
surprised,

leaving

be
she

pected
ex-

woman

for

manner

curt

marks
re-

close,

suppose

mucfias

as

ness,
cool-

you

visit to

to
slightestreason
change of manner;

and

"

of her

good.
Opposing, therefore, the greatest suavity of
and
her
to her chillingreserve,
somewhat
to
an

lected
recol-

semper

inconstant

ever

pleasant

dispositionwould

next

interrogateas
way,

accompanying
Love, chameleon-

petites soins

like.

morning.
too

did

chill,a kind

the

her

intensifyif they

gave

phase

pavement
the

me

my

variable

that

not

but

was

the

notice

bile" genus,

pleasant as

sulked,

there

belonged

she

doubted

she

that I did

to

not

receive

with

perfume,

Dolores's

anticipatedfrom

; but

answers

did not

the

objectsthat

perceive in

to

reserve.

the

by

been

wash-tub,

marble

love, when

not

had

and

I
she

expres-

L'52

stones

civil

many

"

sister,I made
I

was

compliments

the

The

acting was

very

good,

well

executed.

One

of the

ignorance of

my
a

natural

rather

of

at

the
in

teach
row

them
was

I found

ladies

looks

; others

gazed

and

which

not

be

suspense.
I

down

to

that

my

row

I had

ladies who

necessary

when

not

beauty,

thought
look

while

Nor

ment
deport-

or

the

tiest
pret-

giggle
"

I had

I left

was

had

troubled

and

me,

these

for their

this

; for I felt then

me

at

; but

dress

my

been

long

disappeared

little while

entered.

care

sneeringly;

me

this

general remark.

frown

returned,

gens-cParmes,who
decidedly de trop.

by gentlemen
a

of

could

stranger

me

gave

As

was

in

soon

panied
accom-

to

derstand
un-

going

place,he condescendinglyinformed

proper

the
to

was

in

amusement,

own
a

dered
won-

part of the

with

I did

(smallboy)

of the

that I

with

ridiculous.

nino

one

ladies ; I

evening

one

the butt

and

would

entered, and

by

that

me

disconcerted

most

them

half

or

row,

the

exactly the thing;

youngest

doing something
after

at

because

somewhat,

might

me

eyed

viejas (oldwomen),

were

one

was

into

me

in the parquette, and

myself immediately
of the

Some

led

place

usually decorated
seat

my

sufficiently

evenings I attended,

their

So

audience.

ballets

to

ladies

manners.

than

from

ascended

first

there

show

to

good

more

the

gallantry upon

leaving

I determined

and

me

of

and

parti}-to

"

the

see

exclusively
occupied by

want

mother

theater

of the

J noticed

row,

gentlemen,

and

the customs

error.

her

abrupt departure.

somewhat

for

"

at the
frequent attendant
language, and partly to

learn

J-:i!KOl;.

XATl'JJAl.

entered

exclusively
appropriated

was

frequented the
; and

that

suspicionupon

strengthened it. Indeed,

these precincts,
whose

no

women

life was

theater

this,so
their

panied
unaccom-

far from

ing
throw-

reputation,rat

were

known

admitted
to be

hoi-

in
with-

unchaste.

253

CATALIXA.

acquainted with

I became

behind

me

and

amuse
room

interest

than

me

I
foot-lights.

the

-girlnamed

of

daughter
business

It

Catalina.

herself

off the stage

grctcieicse,

theater, and

from

the
it

though

the

at first I attributed

so, of course,

And

therefore

should

friends,where
one,

from

hour

an

the

manner

of

tertullias
with

interest ; and
and

wit

that

Catalina
and

not

had

all the

when

and

she

was

Andalusian.

was

dered
ren-

it.

on

virtuous

She

wife

at

probably

"

the

acter,
char-

merits

hear

we

we

for

go

the

to

incident
her

; in

Her

For

companionship?
and

than

Her

never

our

No
posed
suptempted
at-

passing

life had

adventures

we

attending
been

ordinary

than

more

with

spirit

interest.

truth, she

eyes

have

liked better

theater

of

if

prejudice of

virtuous;

excited.

they

conversation, could

than

great

were

was

Arragonese,

deep blue, and

were

yet

of black.
Some
three months
later,
brilliancy
Baden,
going from Strasbourg to Baden

having crossed
with

she

my

frank, joyous,

which

envy

their natural

blonde

of
as

her.
foregovisiting

related

doubled

imate
illegit-

none

quitted

Her

after the

an

the

higher society.

many

the

house

She

investigation.I

rooms

actresses

popular

the

part.

the

or

other

stricter

at her

varied

half

one

Catalina
a

be

should

her

down

resented
rep-

stage, being entretenue,

wealthy hidalgo. This, however,

I did not

believe

was

of the

character

gi'eenand

was

was

and

to scandal.

would

she

She

it.

to

novelty those

best of the

It

troduced
in-

more

The

world, so long

clever

"

of the

wife,by

in

saw

stage.

said

was

said, with

was

variety and

liked

brought

novelty

where

nobleman.

agreeable

usuallyperformed

actors, who

the roles assumed

she got into the

how

of the

the

on

surpassed in

there

the

scenes,

life's epitome ; and

was

behind

the

one

the rest

the Rhine

in

of the passengers

an

omnibus,
to

have

my

was

ing
wait-

luggage

254

Doums.

HISTORIC

I noticed in the crowd

put into the railway-car,

She

blue-eyed girl,not
had, indeed, one of

dreams,
hovers

in

or

hi

them,

to

as

and

of

happiness. With

lifewould

be

but

prevented
done

least,whether
have

must

should

she

been

undersigned"

of

such

promenade.

dence
My stupiddiffiI might have

her

to

age,

found

out,

at

English.She

or

"

former, and

her eye," I trust

"

indefinable

an

guardian angel,

If the

her

loveliness

countrywoman,

clue

that

these

pages

she will furnish

All

residence.

character
position,

"

the

other

he feels

"

full well.

Catalina
fund

some

about
particulars
he knows

was

in

seen

soft,so spiritualized,

so

accostingher, as
imagined pretext, and

one.

meet

ever

festive

The

soul

my

some

upon

ideal.

to the

carry

sentiment

have

you

something so sweet,

had

of her features

Catalina.

to

"

actual

the

between

faces

those

tiful
beau-

pre-existencesomething

of

state

in features

unlike

had
inexhaustible
and
an
spirituelle^
pression;
vivacity. She had the French fineness of ex"And
might be French," she would
say
was

not
a
laughingly, by her father's side." She was
wise
her
father.
own
sufficiently
daughter to know
and
"Her
she
mother
a nobleman,
always said he was
could
ment
readily believe it,for she had a great attachfor noble
derived
have
blood, which she must
"

from

her

taking coffee
in
la

I asked

birth."

ices at

and

Spain she thought the

cuna,"* she replied.On
the Order
had

done

Catholic
of
fear to

of Jesus

flinch from

bearing.
*

most

another
her

La

With
runo

"

were

"

told

that

in

was

no

of

virtuous
I

occasion

learningthan

refinement

no

we

restaurant, whereabouts

women

clergy combined
;
their order, there

encounter,

day, while

one

some

to

for

more

her

her

that the Jesuits

of the

all the rest

the

danger they
torture
they

their Faith

En

ing
prais-

was

pursuitof

the cradle.

"

in

one

ciples
prin-

would
would

hand,

their

and

other, they had

deemed

inaccessible,and

"

of the

"

replied;

and

mankind

to

turkey

heart

by

she

Europe,"
of

tabulae

solvuntur

her

more

ice
serv-

and

"

was

superior wit the

Lope de Vega

knew

praised Cervantes

"

rites.

homilies, propagandism,

generally obliged to yield to

She
superiorityof argument.
almost

planted the

into

been

has
truffee

JRisu

auto-da-fes."

or

the

all their

than

had

of barbarian

midst

dinde

tries
penetrated coun-

in the

introduced

have

They

Cross

25,5

JESUITS.

life in the

before
standard

THE

OF

DEEDS

GOOD

and

"

contended,
"

Le
Spanish origin of Gil Bias.
Sage," she said, was nothing but a man-midwife, and
performed the office bunglingly. Besides, Gil Bias
and
with all its cleverness
variety,is inferior to
itself,
of course,

for

the
"

the Alonzo
a

of its kind."

master-work

her"

day

one

where

variety of

her

title

father's

side, you

Mancha

were

had

to
out

of

to

the

his

his

said he

of wine

sample
and

tongue,
; the

affirmed

their

other

first said
it had

did

wine
O

The

owner

protested

without

liquor either

any

the

sort
taste

the

pipe

was

of mixture
of

iron,or

dition
con-

it w-ith the

tasted
of

twang

La

them

of its

than

more

happened

once

tasted
no

proof of

opinions asked

the
a

As

presented to

was

of them

One

the

what

"

men
kins-

two

of wine

tasters
'

to

his

By

had

years.

I will tell you

quality.

nose

other

'

boasted.

excellent

most

her

therefore

have

Panza

for many

hogshead,

and

tip of

he,

them,

the

enabled

Oh," says she,

father, and

recollect,he

with

complimented

which
"

"

vivants, and

one

taste

Sancho

known

which,' says

some

Segovia

company

bons

many

of wine.

my

than

clearer

who

her

shades

from

this

were

of

in

Dining

wines,

nicety of

distinguishthe
inherit

there

excellent

the

upon

Geronimo

Licentiate

of the

goat's

clap it

of iron

"

leather.

clean, and
that

could

the smell

the

tents
con-

give the
of goat's

256

THE

had

judgment they

the

SKNSK.

Nevertheless, the

leather.
to

SIXTH

sold, and

wine

was

they

found

it

in

two

famous

given.

Time

when

the

small

key,

pipe

this your

worship

one

descended

from

such

cases

of this kind."

may
a

race

address

you

by

in

Sancho

had

such

Spain), if

collateral
should

of
from

bodega

taste

of Xeres

from

that

will tell you

from

but

vintage.

"

It is

reserved

The
to

she had
drank

so

color

in her

more

frolicksome
with

coquetry
nor

her

She

She

not

was

of
rather
not

seek

to

But

god.

time,

any

false

words

"

than

anxious

anxiety
of

the mask

never

brighter

and

from

her

real

to

ignorance

fastidiousness

she

outraged
nor

not

added

cheek,

neither

modesty,

an

have

manner,

ever

sanyre

know

even

her

on

ing
paint-

of the

seen

her

conduct
the

bicn-

vulgarity.

avoid

the

which
evil

of

for wine.

although

in her

nervously

knowledge
make

cacy
deli-

lor

nose

might

; for

bloom

deeper

no

ordinary

the

"

of wine,

eye

five,and

too

abandon

had

an

gris, I have

the rosy

so

the

kind

alone

Catalina

wine,

has

I have

"

but

And

language, at

seances.

reinos

Malaga wine, or
but
bandage my

for persons

become

eye,

my

Mansamlla

tell

person

have

for

to

as

reason

for

"

only the

not

One

those."
mouth

from

the

see

for music

ear

canaille

use

name

taste

quatro

can

another

Carlos

more

los

from

aroma

an

azul.

how

the

another
sense

Don

bottle, close rny mouth

to taste
it,and
impossiblefor me

it shall be

its very

give

directlyfrom

it

body

de penas

to

Christian

Andalusia

Any

that I shah1 not

so

eyes
so

his

venture

Well,

en

of

not

much

was

kingdoms

Montillo, Val

one

he

as

thong.
or

correct

get

cleaned,

whether

your

how

it, who

known

four

the

of

boast

father,well
in

with

kinsmen,

the

on,

leather

may

opinion in
(they always

be

to

perceive

By
his

passed

came

tied to

stuck

tasters

port
im-

reveals
"

and

did

indelicacy.

258

THE

for

time.

and

because

for who

knows

dictates

will be

as

"

to

love ?

Well,

at

fifteen

serenaded

exchanged

never

me

gave

the voice

is

and through
silent,
I

the

was

mechanical

in love.

alone

with

there

is

"

I have

other

as

before

them

If

via
children's,

Carlos,has
much

become

pride in it,it
birth

suppose

the bar

an

however,

"

at

to

least when

admixture

be

of richer

should

we

Besides,
toward

heart

had

mother

She

proud
equallyproud of
was

illegitimacy,

families,they take
as

there

erally
lit-

"

When

me,

tion
condi-

the first woman.

me

in

chronic

tonio,
An-

marriage
leave
us
girls

of ten

me.

sinister.

seems

our

since,my

think

to

reason

birth, to have

female

got it from

we

I may

late to recede.

instinct in the
"

I loved
His

So

out

mother

speak when

novio.

times

had

established

we

would

they

who
we

my

eyes

opposed

it is too

natural

had

But

designs than matrimony for

birth,and sought to make

of my

Don

mother

My

thing forbidden

any

my

before

semi-noble

nine
fantasies,

our

tire of them

young

shoemaker.

"

of parents !

error

man

of my

name

we

loved, or thought

said, considering my
fatal

reason

destiny of

twelvemonth

And

the usual

novio,

opportunity.

an

for such

fallen

without

so

syllable,for which, indeed,

good understanding.
was

passion itself?

I underwent

for

me

the

reason,

I had

Spanish maidens.
had

are

the

without

perfidious

men

inconstant,I laugh ;
passion
promises which

they

forgotten with

cease

shall

call

women

that

not

love

we

SINISTER.

I hear

When

scoundrels

that

BAR

is

blood.

others

good
I

in
reason

an

stained
un-

to

determined,

should
like the king's-evil,
illegitimacy,
at the risk of
skip one generationof our family,even
nio.
Antoand married
breaking my poor mother's heart
I had often heard
married
who
that girls,
against
that

"

their parents'

wishes, were

in most

cases

miserable, and

AVISE

in

all

deserved

cases

believe

it,for

for whom

motive

They

attribute

; and

vent

toward
that the

girl,who
tie,she

natural

horizon

; it

insolent.

If she

in

had

prejudices.
"we

wives
ancient

three
but

I had

him

long

not

disabuse, I
"

the

my
I went

Nay,

to

he
and

nose

my
"

and

to

as

my

abbey did, to

not

and

our

ton, and

offended

Paris.

I had

ried
mar-

much

confessor

been

ogled

as

husband

confirm

has

ravishment

happy

rendered

told

me

from

man

leave

to

I could

jealous

opinion
had

watched

been

thus

of

me

his

He

husband.

confined

have

our

bonnets, from

to

of

upon

cause
so

even

lips,and

escape

espousals!

this refinement

mother, had

would

rior
supe-

lawful

gratifyhis pride

had

not

suspicions. As

pride as

and

I believe

the

his fits of

mistresses,but

our

determined

visits to my
mass,

tificial
ar-

nobles," she said laughingly,

unfounded

to

of his

expense

of

some

respect for my

was

apprehensions

an

storms,

wedlock, was

imported

had

much

prey

in

mauvais

autres

have

weeks, and
too

asunder

visible above

however

Spanish customs, with

suspected me without

Antonio

strongest

jealous,sullen,and

in

in

jealous of

"We

never

Nous

be

may

rend

was

born

not

of
canaille,

"

the

intemperate by aguardiente, to
illegitimate
birth,as if the daughter

more

Besides, his jealousy was

my

think

to

ceive
parents, will de-

not

was

tions.
affec-

entertain

apt

broken

the meanness,

of the

son

too

her

to

Antonio

hidalgo,though
to

man

ignoble

some

they

clouds, continued

for my

reproach me
an

has

hesitate

tempests.

He

to

anger

disobeyed

will not

rendered

anger,

of

has

rose

in

out

went

the

us

readily

now

of the very

conduct

My honeymoon

one.

can

Besides, they are

husband.

her

strongest natural

our

our

upon

parents.

our

And

estimation

sacrificed

have

we

be.

to

sink in the

we

259

RESOLVE.

dicted
inter-

when

me

in the

had

at

house.
lated
I muti-

myself
of

the

nuns

the

Moors.

tractive
unatsome

260

COINCIDENCE.

SINGULAR

"

my

found

soon

my

ardent

whatever

cost.

him

knowing
him, I

If love

will go

from

jumped

(itwas

the very

seem

may

without
blame

arms

the

who

this country
alas !
"

the

France

two

this country,

write,and

had

assisted to

made

of their

further

works

begot

of
gratification

cai-ed for in
and

the

of the time

taught
and

tion
inclina-

comedies.

to

Lope

me

judiciousselection

the
in

read

read

to

me

natural

romances

would

quite young, he
Cervantes, and

and

not

contented, happy,

develop a

books, particularlyfor

Vega

Do

hidalgo,or

years, most

and

de

into

mechanic,

poor

old confessor had

was

the

jump

an

better

My

of

amiga

It

Avere

honeymoon.

attached.

While

arms

virtuous.

more

and

the

these

I should

of the

night

one

underneath.

that

and

for

head, it

the

!)into

be

to

the

sposa

rescuer

my

known

I believe

window

my

generally much

generallymuch

travelingin

of

; for the

Carlos

I lived with

without

no,

without

intended

mother

than

que

honeymoon

happened

of property, is

man

balcony of

intervention

her, Don

from

the head.

the

my

Antonio

creyo

singularcoincidence

identical

Yb

last of the

gentleman

loved

singularthat, having
?

with

be released

to

into the heart

comes

through

out

desire

had

more

dislike him

should

not.

of

; is it

mother

acquainting my

and
situation,

it,at

"

of

means

great desire

me

My

kind.

kind

opportunity for indulging

he
for

protector

this

taste

; I

gave

me

read

ature,
during these years most of the Spanish lightlitertunate
Lope de Vega constantly,whose plays I was for-

every

enough
Indeed, I never
and

off the

scenes,

few

to

was

great

represented on the stage.

attend every representation

see

me

"

continuallyrecitingand
of my

amusement

whom

to

complimented

to

failed to

stage

the

friends

often

very

he
much

had

patron

introduced

upon

my

me.

histrionic

acting
and

the

They

ability,

'S DKBUT.

and

if

predictedthat

make

sensation.

of

acquaintance

and

at this

of

time

passionatelyattached
with

sympathized
at

house

our

and

actors

is with

Panza,
that

those

an

were

unlucky

the

end

of

partlyfrom
of his

and

he

than

behooved

rascalityof

to

his agent,

obliged

to

for his

employment
at

unbounded
of any

first objected to what

upon

my

from

his

made

my

insistingthat

to-morrow,"

partly from

wider

might
he

rassed
dreadfullyembarhis expenses,

toward
possess

called the

otherwise

some

economy.
my
me,

tude
gratiin the

for the stage.

sacrifice ; but

I would

withdraw
I

companionship,he reluctantlyconsented.
debut

know, is rather
that

of

provide against

retrench

kindness

talent

stage.

wheels

to

Now

vate
culti-

prophetic,for at
affairs of my
friend,

became
speculations,
was

the

who

was

the

years

for the

down

one

every

Maria's, advice
two

of the

cart-wheels,and

be

to-day might

these

rash

that

and

got up

them, Maria,

"

was

of the

some

talent

us

swifter

round

sometimes

of

natural

my

fortunes

adopt, indeed, the simplestdomestic

the time, I thought, for me
to show
was

and

He

performances,

particularpains to

said,told

she

turn.

the

own

"

took

; but

which

One

assisted.

up

it therefore

and

theatrical

rehearsals,and

called

turned

fortune

the boards

on

privatetheatricals,at

she

what

often

was

acquired a knowledge of
profession.I did not dream

feelingsand

in Seville now,

us

Sancho

all the

actresses

the

thus

to

I attended

players.

friend

my

actresses, and

appearing

ever

the stage I would

on

through

of the

part of the

the mechanical

went

made

some

the scenes,

behind

ever

261

at

me

to

It is two

In this time

Cadiz, Seville,and

I have
Madrid

stage, you

with

met

undertake
years

the

where

provincial,and

emboldened

sphere.

Grenada,

higher

since

my

reception

roles

and

first appearance.

played at Barcelona,Grenada,
several

engagements,

each

1^02

MOKAL.

of which
I have

has been
enabled

successful

more

friend

my

to

than

its

predecessor.

his former

resume

social

in disembarrassing himself
of pecuniary obligations
position,
that
he despaired of ever
vinced
meeting, and conhim that if I sinned againstanother I have been
and
in conduct.
in heart
to him
true
My fancy for
uninformed
Antonio
was
an
caprice: my love for my
protector is an enduring sentiment, the offspringof
gratitudeand respect. Since I have lived with him
I have
not
developed my heart and mind, and I am

but
only intellectually
I know

husband.

that

assured

me

for my

forego

not

and

character

laws, have

if

"

concurred

not

condition

say in
husband

make

or

sanction

my

which
of

riage
mar-

my

I would

legal prostitution."
of

the

on

my

not

extenuation
;

with

powerful than

consideration

sin in that

only to

does

than

respect did

former

nothing to
toward
her
infidelity
her well

law

better

conduct, more

I have

all without

the

mutual

as
present position,

; but

morally

Catalina's

vise
contrary, I ad-

greater respect, to

themselves

stone

happy. But all

including those

in

opinion, even
ladies who
envied
her position,
that her conduct
since
her
the hidalgo,had been, so far as obliaison with
servation
and
correct
extended, most
irreproachable.
Seville

Wherefore, although
violation
would
or

to

of the seventh

not

be immoral

entertain

her

So

what

with

baile

with

La

fruits

gipsy-dances
"

through
what

I condemned

Las

with

at

commandment,
in

while

wines
with

it

visit

her,

cafe.

Girandilla

what

pitied her

I concluded

occasionallyto

me

Catalina,Dolores, and

and

"

"

an

occasional
licious
skies, de-

what

with

soft

what

with

and
bull-fights

drives

around

the

walls, and

frequented by fairest of women

Delicias,
Murillo for contemplation,and Moorish

"

ar-

CHABMING

and

chitecture

ruins

263

SEVILLE.

for

reflection

made

out

"

nicely
heartfelt
the

the

through

subdued

of

conviction

Quien
No

"

Who

No

its
of

sentiment

"

Seville.

in

days

ha

no

visto

never

marvel

truth
its

ha

It
that

citizens

visto

was,

"

SeviHa,

maraviglia"

has

yet

to

has

Seville

ever

been,
seen."

indeed,
subscribed

to

get
with

to

XXIV.

CHAPTER

SCIPIO

DANGER
AUTHOR

GREATER

STEAMER-

IT

is related

battles

of

than

his

subsequent
inclined

am

from

merit
to

the

see

much
"

extolled

Look

my

that

on

after

friend,

historian
whose

that

"

in her

of

and

Dolores

as

me

so

resistance.
stroll

Seville,I
After
I

when

me,
not

and

was

had

met

few
seen

to

call

au

"

of the

unconscious

again till I

fait about it."

De
tout
mon
inquired.
put

greater

heard

Taking

Dolores.

asked

caped.
es-

refused

he

own

left

of

"

concluded

he

had

he

of his

kind

three days preTwo

or
replied:
viously
I thought I perceived a change

toward

been
?"

that

this."

on

confessor

that

manner

I had

cause,

him,

but

beauty

before

lady ?

young

us

ticularly
par-

Hannibal

I claim

But

tells

evening

preliminarynothings,he

of

conqueror

picture,then

the

safe

more

the

to

one

exposes

evidently fearful

siesta,the

her

greater victory

Spain, and

that

the

captive

fighting

Zama.

at

much

The

his.

URE
DEPART-

"

dismissed

he

inexpertus loquor.

than

CADIZ

that, while

achieved

think

which

Nbn

charms,

one

to

Andalusia,
danger

OF

THE
THE

ON

Spain, he took captive

princess. Notwithstanding the

thus

and

"

SPAIN"

in

conquest

matchless

friends

her

to

HISTORY

"

ScipioAfricanus

native

report of her

IN
BREAKFAST

"

VOYAGE

of Roman

beautiful

ARRIVAL

AND

CADIZ,
AND

GIBRALTAR,

POLIORCETES

DEMETRIUS

TO

ENCOUNTERED

AUTHOR

THE

AND

THAN

VOYAGE
FOR

the

AFRICANtTS

"

Do
cceur

had
you

seen

love

; with

266

FOR

PLEA

proprietythan

with

more

most

of his victories.

however,

It was,
I

in

were
feelings

should

love, regret, desire,pity,and

For

Pyrrhus

have

ruined.

been

raged

anger

hi

tory
vic-

Grief,
heart,

my

it.

wasted

and

upon

of insurrection.

state

Monarque

Grand

le

such, and

another

All my

Te Deums

bonfires,and
got up illuminations,

could have

CONFESSOK.

THE

time

perhaps the strongest feelingwas one

of indignationagainstthe Franciscan, that he should
his sacred office to such base purpose.
have prostituted
tunes,
forafter a while, on contemplationof his broken
But
and
the general laxity of Spanish morality, I
subdued
this feeling,
and
laid the blame
stances.
circumupon
some

For
since

now

in

loaded

and

brought

one

"

seems
vous

they

to

what

enslaved

any

in the

up

poor

knows

one

than

poorer

delicate
in

those

immoral.

is the

of

man,

Catalina

least,in

at

scorn

to

do
be

not
a

market

But

destinyof

the

voulez-

girls?

toil, premature

in

Spain,than

vast

number

to

be

to

such

of

an

crepitude
dethe

the wife of

instances.

exculpate the mothers,

party

sale

overt,

que

said, it is better

of fortune

man

England

this
feelings,

almost

condition, unrewarded

Thus, although
should

no

asks,

one

no

strictness of N"ew

of

person

otherwise

As
mistress

gardens,
and the
servitors,

die where

daughters by mothers,
disgustingas well as
?

the

live where

professional
beggars,are

drinciples
of

theirs

"

fields,

are

To

wine

and

cares,

one

years

palaces,

museums,

well-cultivated

the

Now,

nag.

few

priests. Then,

poor

theirs the well-fed

"

but

they dispensedunstinted

were

oil,and

fruit

no

if not

who

Theirs
in

ambling

what

eat

the

academies, hotels,

corn,

with

sleek

of

different

habitations,where

hospitality.
rich

condition

are

their

were

how

the

was

what

I recollect

and

transaction,I

LOVE

think

both

I been

restrained

herself

have

man

of

his

feelingwe

the

for the

Creator.
us,

love

she

as

of the Divine

is

exhalation

are
intelligence

of the Catholic
somewhat

itself.

in

her

conduct.

The

man

I know
a

of

will

in the

affects the soul.

prove

But

or,

but-

and

eration
ven-

ualized
spirit-

the unsullied

flesh
in

this be

to establish

feels from

his

triumph
innocence, deserves
has

never

been

subjected,has escaped

the
a

this,but
such

into

go

not

vive.
sur-

necessarilyand

spiteof

sin,and

may

soul

allow

not

that

we

the

yet

could

sinning. Still,if

he who

our

chivalrous,if

idealized

yet be

he

erally
gen-

long

scious
uncon-

self-evident

it ; and

insist,as a compromise, that

temptation the strongest that man
can

than

to

It is the secret

authority,I

us

of earliest

and

Virgin, is

fall,and

done

truth, it will be labor lost

to, and

far

so

independent of purity of

Grundy

deed

uncontested

argument

heart

may

Mrs.

will insist that

to

"

is

we

fullyappreciate

we

warm,

the

that

to

emotions

incarnate,wherever

purity of

immediately

Our

The

the

its affections.

reposes
is

but

"

impurity.

angels,that

of his to earth.

worship of
divinityin woman

the

inspirea portion

we

when

fanciful
for the

Let

loved,

enthusiasm.

with

nature

the

nearer

likest God's"

this best revelation

is akin

in her

be

lieve
be-

not

devotion, because

creature

much

so

do

of

thought

of

"Woman

should

"

least

ceding
ac-

for Dolores

associate

could

language

titled
en-

from
principle

regard
protection. I

her

passion the

superior to

There

more

denunciation.

moral

no

loved, who

entertain

feel for the

heart

by

been

ever

borrows

her

than

much

are

the friar's proposition,

my

would

the

Love

daughter

commiseration

to

object

and

our

to

Had

mother

267

IDEALIZED.

I forbear.

who
be

resists

subjected

joyous consciousness
of laurel
larger crown

subjected to temptation
"

it from

phlegmatic indiffer-

268

COUNTER

If any

ence.

try the

has

one

doubts

test, let him

tried,and

been

not

the

upon

if he

; and

experiment

this crucial
have

1KKITAXTS.

subject,let

him

undergoes successfully

reap

equal glory

found

wanting.

with

who

us

in love with myself

Partly,because I felt very much
from this glorious
sion
achievement, partlyto create a diverfrom bitter thoughts,I determined
to elaborate
a

superb dejeunera
the steward
carte

he

could

board

on

la

fourchette,

get

tinto

vino

the steamer

coquetted with
I ordered

then

seriously;

limpid stream,
boiled eggs, juicy to

nice melon

some

with

course,

than

and
water

addressed

pasados

old

Presbyterianparson was
vain)for his sermons
my

These

wont
"

"

por

ayua

of
"

gained, what
request (often

to

serious

them

trout, still redolent

palate.

la

I inaugurated

with

these

as

ordering what
wished.

huevos

the

served

were

the steward

some

and

the

breakfast

person

wine, diluted,of

red

I rather

but

in

each

"

entertainment

"

Meals

up.

wished, and paying what

the

my

me

good

as

"

candid

and

tention."
at-

Et

puis, les cotelettes d'agneau panees aux

and
pointes d'asperges (which can't be translated),
truffes(which can't be imitated). With
poulet aux
this third

"

course

throne," and

Square

"the

began

de

pate

fitness

of

foie

les

greatly to digestthe
a

margin

prepared
leche.

left for

This

hours, and
a

"

of

concluded

me.

The

poignant griefterminated

Frenchman

as
interest,

on

was

board

champagne,

eyed

me

which

aided

spleen.

I still had

Vhuile

artichokes

with

pleasantoccupationwhiled
rehabilitated

de

Strasbourg !

alcochofas a
and

with

vin

of my

venom

some

oil

with

de

his

philosopher
things." My fourth

truffesau

gras

lightlyon

sat

acknowledge

to

eternal

consisted

course

and

lord

bosom's

my

"

chocolate
away

some

con

two

that had commenced

feeling
souvenir.
a grateful
with

slowly passing through

much
my

apparent

meal, and

FRESH

was

perhaps desirous

one

of his countrymen
led

ian, which

is said to

tell

dinner

pleasure.
found

of the
fect
persolve
re-

"

is your

breakfast

Or

perhaps

"

or

your

meal

my

associations

its countless

of

sentiment, however,

other

of my

end

an

reached

steamer

Bonanza,

Santa

Maria, the

water,

The

day

with

fair,and

what

from

round

land

to

my

way

on

to

Puerto
ville.
Se-

to

run.

serving
opportunity of obthe Spanish agriculturists

an

adhesion

pious

go

the

Seville,

anticipateda quiet

Bonanza, I had

at

stopping

taken

time

the

to

crossingby

I had

route
was

miles

eighty

of

instead

by

feastingby

that I concluded

comfortable

so

Cadiz

While

and

or
curiosity,

made

felt

death

voice.

no

I had

and

eating ?

are

of Paris

His

the

Kentuck-

quarrel "Monsieur,

the

to

that

whether

you

him

reminded

to

put

and

question,

same

agonies expressed his

his antagonistwould
but

me

that

have

combat

willingnessto die, if
the question that led
will you

the

asking me

in his last

who

Frenchman,

of

mortal

to

269

BREEZE.

of plowing of God's
vorite
fapractice the mode
of
Elijah found Elisha, the son
people. When
Shaphat, he was
plowing with twelve yoke of oxen
still

"

before
the

him,

and

he

Spanish plow

After

upon

light-house,and
south-west

much, and
a

horizontal

save

my

the

twelfth"

before

used

was

"

I dare

and

say,

the flood.

of the

getting out

piona Point,
fresh

with

Guadalquiver,by the Ciformerly stood a Phenician

which

entering
wind,

stomach

the

Bay

which
more.

of

disturbed

breakfast

the

found

waters

IncontinentlyI sought

position,which, however,

great part of my

Cadiz, I

"

so

did

not

avail

that

the

fish had

to

gloriousopportunity to dine d la carte gratuitously,

of which
I trust they availed themselves.
with its moth-eaten
Coming from Seville,
walls, its

venerable

edifices,and crumbling structures, Cadiz

had

270

CADIZ

modern

new,

AXf'IEXT.

look,with

its

imposingbuildingsof

fresh

whiteness,its pretentiousfortifications and symmetrical

proportions. Once the wealthiest cityof all Spain,it even
now

first view

on

seems

the hectic flush that beautifies

fabulous

almost

to

towns, Cadiz
of them.

any

writers

all

of its

record

their dominion

Rome.

place of

the

over

it still grew

to

became
other
to

have

in

of Rome's

Gaditance.

the

Phenicians

these

nor

earliest

when

the

did

of

thaginians,
Car-

it suffer

powerful empire

refinement.

Horace

palmy literature

grosser

Since

"

their

would

sensualityof

poverty has

been

it

and
seem

sins of the Eternal

expiatethe

the

upon

inspired

latter,in their turn, gave

the

of sensual

attacks

by

by

importance

the theater

to

the

by

usurped by

was

Under

thought

Spanish

importance, and

some

the Romans.

writers

of the

first well-attested

To

sea

decliningprosperitywhen
way

The

its foundation

before

navigatorsit was

back

intended

void-.

was

originis

centuries

some

decay. Running

part of the earth," the place

uttermost

which

beyond

ever
how-

certainlyantiquethan

originmore

an

It is doubtless
the

"

as

is but

do many

antiquity,as

boasts

This

prosperous.

City

the

improbaz
claims
banished," ex-

Juvenal, "the pleasures of the Sybarites, of

Rhodes, and of debauched
Gades, have been introduced
and

domesticated

added,

had

flourished

Partaking of
of

the

Gades

Rome,

hills,"
and, he might have

our

among

there

in

prosperityif
declined

than

originalvigor.
contributingto the vices

more

with

her.

The

barbarians

The Arabs
succeeded
occupied and injured both.
Goths
in the possessionof Gades, which
never
under
el

their

Sabio, the King

most

floors

learned

James

fool in

in 1202

of America

sway

"

gave

and

it

its former
I. of

centuries

rich trade

and

retook

it from

later the
a

revived

covered
re-

Alonzo

Spanish annals,

Christendom,"
two

luster.

the

"

the
the

discovery

import-

1J7J

HISTORICAL.

It

ance.

taken

was

in 1596, who
South

of

the

"

of
good sherris-sack,"

fortyvast
trophiesof his

as

home

of

as

any

Essex, one
his

country,

large quantity of

which

much

Lord

the

of Essex

and

Avar

noblemen

send

to

care

Earl

rejoicedas

for doubtless

"

accomplished

take

would

ships of

have

must

booty

most

the

by

galleonsto England

Falstaff

in this

one

thirteen

sent

American

victory.

sacked

and

Sir

John

was

quently
elo-

so

encomiastic.
Drake

and

the

his cotemporaneous

much

attacked

again twice

century

once

"

for

neck

of

the sea, and

isthmus

with

whose

always

be

been

to

the

taken

despised.

owing

of its aggressors

the

Its

more

never

set

upon

the

to

fiftyfeet
by

of the

form

above
narrow

in aid

comes

to

the

bulwarks

have

have

dominions

than

condition

been

in

the

its

of

Spain,I

have

part
to

its

palmiest

century, when

seventeenth

by

oftener

not
on

or

not

of its capture

ignorance

of

Atlantic,

approach

it has

upon

however,
fortifications,

of its defenseless

the

fully.
unsuccess-

stands

renders

rocks

equally

It

waters

violence

abilityto resist attack.

its population may
What

days, early in

was

fended,
properly de-

is connected

neglected from the time

present day, and that
is

It

the

times

Nature

sunken

dangerous,

safelyto

own

east

continent.

incessant

almost

station

been

fifteen

protect it,for besides

to

Essex

the

on

the

both

; but

land, some

only

slightfrom

some

impregnable.

almost

of Cadiz's

decay.

when
fortifications,

Its admirable

narrow

its

the

the

haughty Spanish minister

are

from

return

teenth
English during the seventhe haughty and
while
petent
incomruled, under Charles I.,England's

in revenge

"

ing
intercept-

tip the streams

accelerated

by

Buckingham
destinies

dried

colonies

prosperity,and

art

their

galleons on
heavily-laden

American

South

buccaneers

the
no

means

sun

272

of

SERTORIUS.

QUINTUS

ascertaining.During

the Peninsular

reached

souls;

have

to

half that

than

more

is

Living

100,000

cheaper

with

have

is

there

now

said

was

hardly

margin for a
societybetter ;

Seville,and

in

circumstances

two

"

number,

it

war

attracted

fall."

thither

these

large

tion
por-

of its former

with
mercial
compopulation,unconnected
pursuits.As the Spanishhidalgoprefersbeing
from trade, Cadiz,
pinched by poverty to contamination
almost

being

but little of the

An

commercial

exclusivelya
sanyre

azul.

the

historyof

episode in

place,contains

Cadiz

is its temporary

occupation by Sertorius,a general who

propitiousfortune
largerfield and more
.Home's

greatest commanders.

Sylla, he
raised

crossed

the

maintained

of

routed

in
had

he

not

been

he said.

treacherous

Italy,and

had

taken

one

hundred
the

for awhile

opportune
have

would

"

inferior forces

He

If

flogged

have

might

in the

have
in

ceeded
suc-

Spain,

maturity

Sertorius,HANNIBAL,

but that he knew

Saguntum,
thousand

Alps

eral
sev-

of his

friends.

with

better

would-have-been

Cadiz
Rome, distinguished

crossed

with

assassinated

the
victories,

use

he

up, I would

come

Rome,"

and

for the

but

occasion

general,and

greater, too, than

of

than

to

raw

Pompey himself,fresh

Nay,

one

not

and

defeated

an
establishing
independent throne

by

power

with

victories.

had

back

against him,

sent

Metellus, on

woman

boy

Italyby

soldiers,equal in discipline

equal contest

that great

that old
this

an

troops

his Asiatic

arrival

he made

Sylla'sconquering legions;

to

times

from

from

rivaled

Spain,
Pyrenees, entered
Of
country againstthe Roman
power.

the

valor

have

to

Driven

but

the

levies of barbarians
and

wanted

and

with
was

his way

how

to

queror
con-

gain
of

conqueror

his presence.
on

the

to

After
Rome

he

with

(not half of whom, however,

him), he stopped at Cadiz, to remen

274

CADIZ

had

she
Paul

de

such

trash

Another
told

she

she

she would

in your

get married?"

can

she

It is true, I found
dollars for it ; and

know

to

country

not

know

kill time

to

?"

Is it

"

sary
neces-

before

read

to

But

"

how.

you

inquired in reply.
Gil Bias

only

how

in Cadiz.

ton,

if

married

are

you

was

however)
innocentlyreplied,

she did

tales of
It

shops

haul

read

franklysaid
before

will learn

you

the

; to which

read

never

the

at

the

much.

very

I found

lady (not of

supposed

whereupon

liked

she

that

mostly

young

me

that

which

Kock,

read

had

but

them,

seen

never

MODERN.

"

I could

in

Spanish,and

have

purchased Don
Vega. Many French

paid six
Quixote,

works
of
Plays of Lope de
also procurable ; but any thing like a
celebritywere
I saw
or
scientific,
libraryof classic,
general literature,
and

the

nowhere
The

Spaniards,for
did not

They
and

this very

secret

of

varied
A

confess,I
the

Attic

an

music

"

heard

never

notes
to

tongue

an

of
Attic

to

I
Still,
than

language
have

must

ear,

as

bon
lips.Gib-

Greek

the

so

sounds

Andalusian

confirmation

of his

been

took
more

place in
than

once

theory.
Cadiz

exceedingly,"and
carriage. I was induced
attached

found
to

out

the

respectable position and

during my

the Alameda

on

of

beautiful

man

ous
patois barbar-

sweeter

patois from

musical

her, and
of

deficiencies.

harmony ; and I found that the liquid

but
Andalusia, flowing through ruby lips,was

noticed

girl

by

soul of

tragicact

I had

pretensionsand

speak pure Castilian,but

Andalusian

says,

the

ridiculed

find,were

the words
unintelligible
; clipping
ones."
uncurrent, and coiningnew

them

free to

from

their

to

in Andalusia.

almost

render
am

where

Cadiz, or, indeed, any

Andalusians, I began

other
"

in

to

that

Aduana,

she
or

absence.
a

young

fascinating
peculiarly
make
regarding
inquiries
a

was

the

daughter

Custom-house,

unsuspected

character.

of

My

Scipiotold

mo

fellow, of

young

MYSTERY.

she

had

that

softer

of the

some

the

occasioned
Like

scandal

the

boasting,and, unsatisfied with

reallyachieved, imagined more.
no

of the

day.

knew

one

nothing

had

recollected
at

hour

late

and

in too

and
who

often

natural

made, of

seen,

his friends

fate,while

but
investigation,
held
It

out

began

as

every

rence

to

probable

appear

knew
he had

thing

had

had
on

go

happened

whence,
been

nor

was

had

man

to

the

been

either

been

stir.
little

dulging
in-

Persons

curiosity

exhibited

sex

policeinstituted

would

made

; when

it traceable

no

to

any

departure from

of the Custom-house

daughter

were

well

counted-for
unac-

subside,
such

started

rumor

was

nothing.

soon

if

al
form-

ripplehis

that the

well known

so

some

smoothly, as

after his

seen

the residence
attentions

had

availed
them, their perquisitions

to

was

extraordinaryinducement

no

absence
and

of

he

tune

he

he

yet felt

of the

anxiety. Officers

course,

him

about

days

some

of his adventures

disappearance of

nothing

cared

for his

cafe,where

had

evening,when

one

opinion that
frequent potations.

sudden

so

last

expressed an

some

The

left

had

he

he

occurrences

for

The

was

given

Scipio said,than

dits and

on

seen

much

successes

So

usually communicative

than

more

been

have

to

of

of existence

was

the

of him.

heard

been

have

may

admirers

means

and
disappeai'ed,

had

he

Suddenly

the

better

from

report.

to

whom

viable
en-

among

money

fortunate

generally,he

the Andalusians

no

Juan

This, however,

of less

confirmed

or

and

received

his lack of ostensible

; but

sex

handsome

of Don

said

was

wealthy.

more

envious

the

been

novio

kind

was

it

and

sex,

for

employment
particular

no

reputation. He
the

L'T'i

"

source

the

occui'no

that

"

cafe

officer. As

known,

one

an

tering
en-

his

officer

"J7"J

SIMM.

policewas directed
any acknowledge of

of the

contradicted

|..\.

interrogateher.

to

his

She

nied
de-

whereabouts, strenuously

report that he had visited the house

the

on

other
no
question,and, indeed, showed
As the originaemotion
than natural grief at his loss.
tor
the house
that evening
of the report of his visiting
could not be found, and as no criminatorycircumstances
ped.
dropappeared against the young girl,the investigation
the

in

evening

But

the

fellow

young

before

day

appearances,

it had

post-mortem

examination

by poison. This
and required from
Strict

definite

purchase
time

of the

father

himself

and

clue

no

the

authorities

further

made
of any

found

at the

wanted

had

content

his shoulders
time

same

to

made

been

be

solution

the

he

for.

The

was

house

his

by

urged.

and

rigid inquiry,but

of the mystery,

of the

replied

showed

which

and

be baffled.

to

thought

and

further

within

thoroughly searched,

girlwas
to

proceedings.
apothecaries*

several

accounted
satisfactorily
of the

curiosity,

to

poisonous substance

sale

no

the

at

of death

verdict

impetus

Scipiowhat

shrugged

the water.

another

justicefinallyseemed
I asked

in

resulted

from

bay, and,

in

days

some

daughter subjected to

was

the

of the

corpse

gave

; but

easilyand

not

been

were
inquiries

the

to

as

floatingin

found

was

the

return

my

"

He

matter.

sabe ?" but

Quien

that

countenance

humored

him

he

by

newing
re-

He suffered
question with greater earnestness.
himself to be persuaded to speak. In his opinion
had been murdered
man
by the daughter of the
my

the

had

aduanero, who
last

lie

favors,and

wanted,

and

by appointment
that he must
authorities

heard

that
was

that

he

had

these

had
he

to

leave

night,and
adieu.

he

said

resolved

bid her
hear

that

things

had

now

why

also ?"

had

should

"No

had

He

her.

probably

"But

of her

boasted

all

came

told

her

not

the

se, I don't

WELL!

PAKE

know,"

he

well

as

as

but

"

replied. Justice may

blind."
version
Scipio's
of the kind

act

no

without

wore

the

least

subdued

Still,
many
after the

the

have

have

been

been

ed
perpetrat-

her

seclusion

notice

lovely a face, nor

and

believe

her

acknowledge

be

the

the

say

least

act.

woman

and

under

of love

or

avenged;
whether

so

"

Souls

made

sun,

"With

whom

of fire and

me

be because

may

satisfied with

must

lack

the

juncion
days, and
to

who

cross
was

My

you

be

fearfully

the

passion,

sun,

inclination,

my

He

Seville,it
could

who

pleasures and pursuitsyou

capacity of enjoyment.
I

was

the

was

done

her
justify,

the

of bulls

but

not

less than

less of you.

saw

features,

of the

fate,not

If I liked

away.

limit

children

so

upon

is virtue."

revenge

tom
symp-

have

not

Andalusian

But, farewell,Cadiz
draws

if

no

if

as

"

should

hate, knows

soon

something to
guilty,however,

foullywronged
an

in it

extenuated, if they could

circumstances

guilt.

her

would

Even

mysterious.

"

of

look

of

never

had

another, that her bravado

face

yet I could

Her

into

not

repose

murderess

myself, what

to

construed

I could

But

movement

public so
suspicion;

divert

to

would

of self-accusation.

in

call in

we

vestige

no

appearance

intended

was

were

If she

of crime.

expression,but

event,

rect,
cor-

author.

consciousness

thought

she feared

few

may

"

betrayed

be

sometimes,

the Alameda.
on
girl afterward
reallyguilty,she must have been what
England, true grit." lsro feature or

New

to

deaf

the

saw

were

mnn

could

discover

to

be

out, if the civil authorities

being found

seriouslydesirous
I

277

CADIZ.

to

take

promised
country

traveling with

from

to

place at
"

his servants

offer,
in

Ronda

assist."

Xeres

not

with
and

I had
a

tended
in-

gentleblooded

'278

TRAFALGAR.

horses

of

"

choice.

"

But

my

the route

of the Peninsular
A

Nelson

told

for

where

duty, and

naval

the

combined

The

long and

France
to

of

but

nations

to

board
wreck

that occasion.

What

Waterloo

avenge

her

refines

his

melancholy

France

with

contest

do

refutingthe policy

but

now

armaments

"

and

!
and

vengeance,

of punishment.
victory itself the instrument
and
InkerTrafalgarand Waterloo, Balaklava

for

would

mann

I took

vicinityby

man

every

of life on

waste

murderous

present

Nemesis

makes
But

of

fleets

of the waters

out

England doing

is

her

its

disappointed. A Spaniard on
this day fragmentary portionsof

For

mean

So

see

of the steamers

one

fought in

battle

of the useless

of her

to

what
passed Cape Trafalgar,some-

testimonials
what

wished

not

was

my

circuitous,

more

much.

so

board

on

we

occasionallyrise

would

read

England expected

that to

me

I had

noon

against

Spain;

though

sea,

me

Company.

littlebefore
famous

offered

quicker; and, besides, I

for Gibraltar

passage

he

which

by

of which

Rock,"

the

of

latter

and

easier

was

the

be unstained

Russia

and
fields,

restricted

empire.

My Spanish acquaintanceseemed
the

upon

alliance

day
Whether

than

of France
on

singular or

observation
French

in

customs, and

popular
almost

than

beget an
toward
more
more
selfish)

them

earnest

dwell

orable
Spain on this memsubsequent English friendship.

not, I made

Spam

French

this almost

that

French

people

The

English.

prejudices,and

to

with

were

individual

universally unpopular.

insular

glad

more

Their

their constant
and

; while

the

perhaps

principles,
much

morgue,

not
more

more

English

ridicule

French,

able
invari-

of

unnatural

are

their

iards,
Spanlike
dis-

tan,
cosmopoli-

more
accessible,and
(perhaps, because
ready to flatter Espanolism, are generally

FAMOUS

liked.

old

The

War

and

after the

time

some

French

of

since the accession

tune

no

of Bourbon

the

to

alliance

been

much

so

of course,

kind

was

discuss

enough

the scenery,
famous.

was

and

Tarifa
the

on

European

But

the sole historians

honor

Alonzo

any

that

were

bit the

dust !

head

of the

Don

Our

Near

been

Greeks

fought
XI.

had

with

less

than

million

it,

Alonzo

them

over

and

of these

its

been

kind

"

of

Spaniardsare
and

wars,

both

as

their country's

perversion,we

as

fortunate

exploits. My
battle

"

Do

inquired. "Every

caballero.

had

portance
im-

take

must

some

killed,while

were

for which

"

"lived

in their

side and

my

Miltiades
grains of doubt.
doubtless
good soldiers as brave as
before
Agamemnon," perhaps; but,

with

that in this famous

men

in

him, they have

as

the

our

passed.

we

dislike of truth when

is interested

and

like

the

by

sight of

in

by

battles

as

read

we

meritorious

their accounts

side

troops againsthalf

Spanish Marathon.

France

the first place of much

was

gloriousvictory

fortythousand

have

have

the historical events

infidel Moriscoes.

against the
gamed

struck
of the

esteemed

sit down

to

companion said, famous

my

has

"

right. By
the vessel began to pitch somewhat
; and I,
took
horizontal position.My Spanish
to my

this time

it

Peninsular

branch

Spanish throne

Spanishnation as at present.
After leavingTrafalgarwe
soon
came
Moorish
coast, making Cape Spartelon

friend

death

"

expression against the French

forgottenor lost its significance.It

that at

House

for

"

gavachos

los

national

either been
me

of "Mueran

cry

tlie scoundrels"

to

'279

BATTLES.

but

two

you
word

patron, San

Christian

in their

friend

twenty

went

ers
biographon

of Don

say

Alonzo's

thousand

hundred

to

infidels
mio

?"

replied,"a/e
Jago himself,fought at

de

believe
of

host,in

this,amigo

it," he
the

armor

of

the

Spanish

"2

HO

knight,and
"

intidels."
whole

Oh,

his

very

well," I replied;

that

says

in

Europe

Alonzo's

cannon

it

"

battle

of

used

been

having

Cressy.

looked

was

the

suspicioulyat

here

made

Edward

employed

have

to

I believe

"

gravityof countenance
bitters (hemlock).

his

cotemporary,

is said

friend

of the

much

kept up as
when
taking

Conde

hundreds

singlesword

My

Socrates

time

with

now."

story

; but

me

slew

UKIM.VLES.

OF

1'IJJ.A.KS

Damascus.

the Third
with

which

battle

forget

for the first

at

cannon,

as

of

England,

effect,at the
anterior

was

in date.
I told

Spanishacquaintancethat the Moors when

they painted their victories gave the large preponderance
of

my

of numbers

to

where

Don

Xeres,

to

amounted

to

would

their

the

The

nature.

canal

ancients

between

Gibraltar

and

Gibil

determine

to

and

the
as

if

canal,he might
to

command

current

miles

sets

and
or

always

by managing
be

in the

that

power

Hercules
his

of the

it, the

tend
con-

cut

the

labors

Certainly,
raculous
only less mi-

be.

the

If he

cut

lock

so

as

of two

rate

by cutting off

this supply,

Mediterranean

of the nation

event

Mediterranean,
at

of

columns,

two

constructed

have

portion

convulsion

of the world.

hour

"Who

Some

commemorate

the Atlantic

half to the

Spaniards

formerly united,

true, all may

the waters
in from

to

well

as

miles.

violent

performed
be

one

dom
king-

seventeen

thousand.

erected

limits

he

but
of the

were

some

Musa,

the

according to them,
"

twelve

and

battle

his

is the narrowest

asserted

them,

the

infidel ?" he exclaimed.

an

continents

two

disrupted by

were

and

of

to Africa

across

that

hundred

one

straits,
being about
that

and

of

at

killed and

allowed

while

host,

; that

was

annals

the word

Tarifa

of the

Rodrigo

upward

believe

From

Christians

Moorish

lost,the
thousand

the

holding

would
posses-

282

THE

OF

KOCK

broken

into the

city."

taking

place

defended

retired

in

theme

of

other
he

has

heard

it has

the

deeds

are

no

limit.

within
ducal

the

of

no

clime, and

Alonzo

became

records

the

of

hind

For

circumscribed
founder

the

of the

representative

chief

the

that

globe.

are

Sidonia,whose
one

but

Spanish,

English tongue,

circumnavigationof

present day is

the

at

in

in the

and,

of Medina

house

became

story chanted, in Danish, by

the

of Jutland

such

devotion

only

ever

resolution,

traveler
intelligent

An

in the wilds
made

heroic

such

with

ballad, not

languages.

Moors, despairingof

The

Alonzo's

dismay.
many

GIBRALTAU.

of

grandees

Spain.
At

four

o'clock

ciras,which
islands."

pliestwice

it

at

here;

we
first,

which

or

three

take

us

but

of
across

the

The

wind

stillI could

now
us

to

while

rather

obtain
before

its

huge tawny

fortified

its seizure
but

"

by

has

it,and
the

flank
to

It

rough

feet

side

by

the

Spain

from

the time

bridles

the

light,

sand.

A
that

Gebel-Tarik,

name

1704;

ward
to-

resemblance

the

in

high,

descending

upon

"

magnificent

vast

unlike

raltar.
to Gib-

"

sea

the

the

sail to

rested

it his

gave

of

colored

mane

English

rampant.

the

us, fifteen hundred

its

been

and

oars

of the

"

lion

Fortunately,two

high, and

impressive. The rays

gilding its summit, threw
into the shade
making no

couchant

dations
accommo-

of five miles

full view

night

and
indifferent,

two

distance

"

was

rose

lion,indeed, it
Tarik

bay

with

the

as

the rock.

boat

pass the

to

be

to

and

grand
sun,

place and Gibraltar,and

said

reach

to

Alge-

place of the
ferry which

steam

destined

were

hired

us

object which

this

place were

in haste

were

the

regretted much,

we

of the
we

"

Arabic,

between

reached

we

late for the

too

were

day

afternoon

in

means

We

seemed,

in the

lion, not

power

of

to

chant,
cou-

Spain

AND

STRENGTH

and

its

tanies

pride:

nor

283

BEAUTY.

long

so

England

as

retains

will Spain be, in heart,its friend.

As
possession,
the batteries
we
saw
approached nearer
peering
from
the rock, risingtier above
tier, fearful even
"

their repose.
"

when

What

must

belching out

death

mountain

and

crag

distant

rock,

shores

tremble

with

spot, we

The
from

their fatal

whole

lifted up
its sides
out

Behind

us,

hung
martello

the

of

by day

and

foes,while

lies

ever

absorbed
the

We

and

or

on

page

right

our

its

embrace

fell upon

sunset

and

rugged

the

were

long-lost
the

high

of

coast

scattered

as

castles,

latter,even
cloud

by night

Spain

my

friends
signalize

to

faculties in

mental

stopped near
trepidationlest
the

had

been

the mole.
the

boatmen, giving them

As

we

were

position
predis-

gun

in momentary

should

(forafter that they

compelled to row

one),and we should be
Algeciras,or sleepalfresco, we

So

entirelyforgotten.

evening

gates

hill

contemplation of

above, that my

and

in

of smoke

singular,
strange, aad wondrous
us
implacable and impregnable.

sea-sickness

within

with

served

fire

no

our

menacing

clouds,and with
seemed
ing
stretchstraits,

to

objects before,around,

entrance

Musa

atalayas, which

pillarof

before

to

tions
fortifica-

with

the

the

Hannibal, had
a

Spain,and

Gibil

turbaned

bold

the

towers,

age

and

Fairyland,

left surmounted

our

jutting

every

Algeciras,upon its hoary towers

fanes, emblazoning, as it were, their

glories;

on

Afric's

of

walls

consecrated

historic

or

head

curving in toward
its gigantic arms

battlemented
and

resembled

Nights.

its gray

brother.

and

mouths;

jar, and

towers

saw

in

thought,

my

On

out

strength.

scene

Arabian

the

their

roar!"

Africa

was

eighthundred

with
the

to

pointing toward
both

from

shake

available

every

they be,"

we

hastened

besides

the

bar

our

open

to

back

to

discharge
stipulatedprice
to

284

GOD

of

three

dollars

We

the

empire,
aspect,

with

lost

red-coated

their

stalwart

the

of

in

the

height
which

power

well

one

of

continuous

England."

of

the

of

gravity

the

and

unbroken

British
of

they

surface

and

the

circles
strain

Rome,

earth
of

the

the

"

whole
whose

posts,
and

sun,

the

compared
of

military

for

which,

to

be

resented
rep-

guardians

subjugation,
to

their

though

part

power

not

following
hours,

the

irrepressible

the

over

uninterrupted

"

is

Near

town.

The

the

which,

of

and

possessions

the

the

indispensable

yet

dotted

archway,

became

glory,

passing

majesty

and

conquest

her

drum-beat,
with

company

foreign

in

measured,

"

her

morning

into

Britain

of

has

with

globe

leads

figures,

subordinate

integrity

purposes

long

sentinels.

"

of

the

of

consciousness,
the

traquito,

un

time

no

silent,

representatives

the

subdued

and

ramparts,

paced

the

tread,

echar

para

entering

and

archway

the

cosa

ashore

under

going

QUEEN.

drink.

sprung

drawbridge

THE

alyuna

for

something

SAVE

keeping
daily

martial

Avith
airs

CHAPTER

GIBRALTAR

THE

"

GUIDES

AND

ENGLISH

GIBRALTAR
all

and

patois

MONKEYS

OFFICERS

is the

languages

XXV.

Babel

spoken,

are

jargon

ROCK

that

be

CAVE

"

ROQUB.

nations

but

MICHAEL'S

ST.

"

SAN

"

of

to

as

THE

"

RIDES

"

they

mostly

that

only

; not
are

much

so

unintelligible.

Moors, Arabs, Ethiopians,Egyptians, English,French,

Scotch

Dutch,

and

Turks,

Jews,

Jordan"

are

Such

Mesopotamians,
all

mixture,

here,
such

produces
"

Rock

either

here

in

"

or

time

and

of

kind

would

beyond

of

languages,

sarily
neces-

gibberish,

called

Rock

"

English,"or
lose

his

ish,"
MoorA

predominates.

most

"

variety of tongue.

every

Rock

Portuguese

"dwellers

confusion

tongue

short

with

certain

Spanish,"
as

Spanish,Irish,and

"

man

language, and

own

perhaps individuality.
I

put

hotel, and

the

at

up

Club-house,

less

not

being

Exchange,

side

on

indeed

not

have
view

to

world

move

baned

Turk

of
his

Fez,

one

chosen
the

past
;" the

hatless

and

such

sandaled
; the

than

directly opposite
of vantage

coigne

malignant

and

livid-faced

; the

the

the

tur-

Jew

smuggler

bandit

in

where
else-

saw

greasy

Ronda

Spanish

linen,jacketless,but

Here

the

I could

square.

Gibraltar.

crouching,

comfortable

its situation

of Commercial

"The

picturesquecostume
clean

situate

life of
me:

quiet,

from

agreeable

accommodations,

with

waistcoat

in

pulously
scru-

of

286

ROCK

CRYSTALS.

silk

used
and
profuse in silver buttons never
the kilted Highlander proud of his exposed calves and
pibroch all these and many others passed
ear-splitting
green

"

"

continuallybefore
I

me

at
assisting

was

of the lions of the

T\vo

The

monkeys.

the

second

animal

an

with

in their habits.
and
and

heretic,or Moslem,
from
lineally
like

him,

and

hotels

their

seems

costume,

they

mark

of the

the

Jew

who
the

continuallyon

are

all

turns,

they

assume

well

parison
com-

are

"

Catholic,

in their

tenances
coun-

scend
de-

They

curse.

mocked

Christ

They

move.

madic
no-

Andalusia,

over

carry

no

guides,"

where.

variety of

and

"

public places every where

head-quarters. They put

as

by
"

call themselves
them

; the

man

indigenous

them

every

by

suaded
per-

guides" and

flattered

are

berth

indelible

the

be

produce

I met

wide

them

gave

"

species of

not

They

scoundrels.

are

men

could

the

are

are

The

almost

masquerade.

would

them.

front, and

Rock

first

that

soil,indeed,

other

in

seat

my

; but

infest the
Gibraltar

variety of

on

and,

character.

They

they do English,and English

well as
as
they do Spanish; that is,an Englishman
can't
comprehend their English,nor a Spaniard their
raltar
Spanish. They will lie,cheat and steal ; and as Gibspeak Spanish as

is

great rendezvous, and

those

among

as

who

quite a respectable livelihood

chatteringof

The

it is true
for

"

come
warm

out

"

are

; but

of

sunny

wiser

man

"

denizens

fools

many

they make
three
sions.
profes-

the

is

better

no

stood,
under-

their

idable
depredationsare less formgardens, never
pockets. They

day

in the
who

from

monkeys

they only rob

themselves

pismire

the

are

its gates,

within

enter

there

upon

heat, and

crawls
than

the

beneath

that

of the

summit
look

down

their

interloper;

rock,
the

upon

feet.

They

for while

the

builds

latter

cool, comfortable
where

abide, nor

They

penetrate.

can

for taxes.
offices to
have

lay

down.

belief

the
justifies

have

rent,

that

nor

nice,

refuse

being

they

are

take

to

notes

no

they

history

whole

Their

sessed
asnor

up,

speech,because

conceal.

to

their

up

noxious

other

or

no

They

thoughts

no

take

to

cliff,
wind-visiting

the

man

pay

They

plaster on

carpets, they arrange

and

quarters upon

fevers

no

and

invites the vermin

and

in his curtains

residence

of brick

his habitation

feet square,

few

287

SHINES.

MONKEY

specious declaration,

without

these,
rightsthey hold inalienable ; and, among
life,liberty,and the pursuitof happiness."
tunneled
the
contend
that the monkeys have
Some

certain
"

strait

they

Spanish save
plausibleconfirmation
if

much, however,

enough

for the purpose,

I have

that

time

sometimes
not

all

at

they

vivant

"

It

cross,

shore

to

safety.

But

these

they

animals
have

no

given

at

cross

their

continuous

one

which

over

the

they get

which
tails,
may

kind

own

be

tails ;

on

are

such

suppose
of apont

monkey projected
series of links,from
could

at, and

shot

theory

be

lost in

their way

pass

in

rock, there they

the

and, through

at

"

never

they

they

to

means

voyager
on

been

rise to

all,by

they

sparsely,or

if

however

had

sometimes

have

"

once

fact that

them

intended
super-

Thames,

reasonable

men

The

them.

privilegedcharacters
caught. If Lord Monboddo's

are

before

is,perhaps, as

in

shore,

of the

numbers, and

bridge of

monkey,

upon

by

cite

theory. I doubt
engineeringwell

of the

passage

as

found

Gibraltar,they

at

their ancestors

rock, may

the

on

conjecture.
that

in

seen

; and

learned, has Brunei, who

ever

employed

other

coast, and

understand

or

submarine

the
any

they

the

to

African

the

on

the

on

as

nor,

side

one

multitudinous

are

nowhere
this

pass from

to

as

so

to

seldom

correct, that

lapse

of ages,

manhood

processes,

which

"

for
our

288

.MOOKISH

THE

intellects

finite

comprehend,

not

can

respects daily growing

because

if

still differ from

in these

man

intercourse

The

after my

sure-footed

by

in

Going

an

street, and
We

called.

reached

passed

houses

with

nice

told, of the

was

down

Moorish

on

its

hosts

But,
bid

the

alike

of

station,where

we

unfruitful.

to

and

which

we

This

led

and

power
a

nestled, as

prettiestof
afforded

more

the

He

the

than

ugly

wounds.

elements

guard-house, or

some

will
and
kind

procured the companionship of

we

whom

pur

accompanied

us

quest would
to

into
"

an

have

huge rock,

emerged
to

This

beleaguering

heavy iron gate, he introduced

rider,into a dark, high-vaultedpassage,

us

wrinkles

some

revolving years
of

looked

landscape.
left

scars

for many

the

reached

where, unlocking
horse

We

erected

has

ernor's
Gov-

The

convent

gardens

the bullets of the

artillery
sergeant, without
been

residences, I

cellar.

been

siege,some

defiance

Here

ant
pleas-

Franciscan

the

Time

ago.

it
probability,

man.

of very

garrison.

generallysavage

face ; and

in the great
in all

and

These

years

rugged

it is

storm, the

rude

the

is said to have

tower

thousand

one

to

Castle, as
the

"

tous
precipi-

picturesqueglens,where

villas.

gratefulrelief

the

refectory and

seeking refuge from

suburban

ascended

formerly a

was

of

to

gardens

green

for its

number

I rode

accompanied
point out the way.

number

officers of

habitation
still famous

route

en

was

Moorish

the

but

contradictions

the

place from the hotel

easterlydirection,we

they

knows

respects, who

horse, and

strong

they

If

so.

arrival I visited the Rock.

and

valet de

doing

smooth

may

they

because

be

lie

not

can

cheat, because

nor

they steal,it may

continued

day

They

prohibitedfrom

been

have

in other

be

may

human.

more

speak ;

not

; and

flatter not
never

do

they

CASTLE.

us,

from

steep stairway of solid rock.

as
galleries,"

the

excavations

are

290

the

for four

castle

feint

years

batteries
floating

have
The

erected

been

place
told

is

and

and

"

So

"

from

Returning

gaping

fissure in the

plane of

inclined
of the

from
from

the

for besides

the

the

45

some

as

up

so

"

geant
ser-

my

most

trident

of

will remain

wide
leads

degrees

is

within,an
the

to

is

teen
four-

some

path

walk

perilousto
yawning mouth

chael's
St. Mi-

Rock, and

of water

droppings

is

the

mountain,

floor of this

the

visited

Its mouth

water.

many

yet fathomed, that

holes, never

strengthened.

the

point, I

side of the

continual

roof,it

the

batteries

Gibraltar

half way

perhaps

As

abyss.

; and

silenced

new

years

retains

eastern

feet above

hundred

high, and

and

event

seven

waves,"

is about

several

feet

captured

or

empire.

the

Cave, which

that

French

militaryorganization is

the

rules

The

riddled

Britannia

as

of the

appendage

every

fortifications

old

the

long

and

Neptune

Since

provisionedfor

me

efficient.

"

men-of-war

rock.

of the

the guns

by

every
conceivable

all in vain.

burned, sunk,

were

Spanish unwieldy

the

employing againstit

"

undisguised attack

or

CAVE.

missile,and

of destructive

invention

an

MICHAEL'S

ST.

mouth

quite slippery
that

oozes

carelesslyover

of the

abyss,there

stand

open

for the

it ;
are
wary
un-

foot.

Many
this

ineffectual

abyss, and

many
So

undertaking.

attempts

have

great is the

without

eifort

and

The

few

returned
immense

reached
no

indications

have

week

depths,they
a

possibleend

sound

desperate
fascination

indeed,

the unfathomable

that,

have

to

passes,

down

gone

alive, report
of

the

to fathom

being made
wrho

made

mysterious

peril,that scarcelya

gulf.

in

lives sacrificed

of unknown
some

been

in the darkness,
after

been
; but

able
that

having
to

cover
dis-

pice
preci-

overhanging precipice,gulf succeeding gulf,abyss

confronting abyss, and horrid cavern
yieldingto one

291

IXFIKBNO.

horrid,presentedan unbroken
which
they were
sights,from

more

down

their

multipliedhorrors, as
free

afterward,the
Mantuan

for the

loca

tristes

"

Here,

Vestibulum

surely no

than

Here

here,

saxa,

might

the

are

the

suppose,

Tisiphoneque sedens,palla

And

The

fitter entrance

sonantia
Ave

by
time

some

senses.

of Pluto.

here,

"

sole domos.

sine

threshold

very

late

silentia

nocte

their

gone

affected

so

chosen

dreary realms

have

lost,for

of

have

not

been

have

to

command

poet could

locale

or

dangers, and

these

among

said that persons

it has been

Nay,

emerge.

ful
continuityof fearonly too glad to

insomnis

one

succincta

cnientd,

noctesque diesque."

servat

this entrance

over

could

sleepless(insomnis)watch,

unless

hold

other

awaken

to

in

eternity.
The

Florentine, too, might have

of his hell from

horrors.

these

Hanging

borrowed

the circles

intensified

tiers,and

his artificial

precipice or suspended over

abyss,Ugolino, craunching the brains of his enemy,

an

would

have

to

been

yet

Aristotle,
Dioscorides, and
for the

inexpiablecrime

birth the

coming
to

the most

marvelous

when

illuminated

while

cavern

with

tableau, while
he has

punished

having anticipatedin

Saviour, could

our

materials

others whom

of

eternityof

of the

This

descent.
he

had

is

have

been

However,
at

he

their
demned
con-

made

command.

advantage
throwing a picturesque
blue-lights,
to

seen

most

all objects. I had no

coloringover
opportunity,
in Gibraltar,to see
the illumination.

After

noise,
for

an

of

romantic

more

the
and

repose

Seville,all seemed

all classes

equally possessed.

bustle, and
cursed

thirst

Jew, Moor, and

tian
Chris-

activityat Gibraltar.

gold" pervades
seem

of

The

The

"

Moors

keep shops

292

"CRYSTALS."

MORE

where

they

seek

retail articles from

to avenge

"

in

as

every

money-changers,

the

and

Morocco,

and

ant
Spaniards and English,by exorbitof their expulsion from their once

upon

the shame
prices,
stronghold. The Jews,

nation,are

Fez

and

and

age,

lenders

at

every

proper

of usance."

rate

business, however, done in Gibraltar is

principal
smuggling. It being a free port, all sorts of articles
far
introduced
coast
to be smuggled along the
are
as
Cadiz.
The
as
English thus find an excellent market
for their cottons
mercial
Rock, in a com; thereby making the
The

well

as

as

militarypoint of view,

great injuryto Spain. It detracts

of the

practicethat

confederates

have

on

the

the officers of the Customs

the

integrityof

chief

article

smuggled

most

active

one

nation
But

Gibraltar

is the

guides

or

On

the violation

; and

even

among

the contrary,

of the

law, it

guardians. Cigars
as

Spain,the

disastrouslyaffected

is

Jewish

in

Spanish side,and

its

rendezvous

smugglers

of

source

morality
nothing from the imEnglish engaged in it

themselves.

it ; for besides

it doubles

the

the

are

their manufacture
honest

by
of

is the

industry of

this

the

illicit practice.

larger rascals

many

duces
se-

than

gipsy thief

and

(foot-pad)congregate here, if not to

that will aid them
trade, to gather intelligence

Spanish ratero
ply their
elsewhere.

There

is very

good shooting on

the woodcocks
main, particularly
are
parties

that

often made

these

dogged

an

had

the

Rock, and

excursion.

been

come

Spanish

in the corkwood

parties,especiallywhen

from

their guns

for

the

It has

"

happened

small, have

justdischarged or

their

been
when

unawares,

upon

and

tion
ammuni-

had

less
so

dits.
given out, and cleaned out by these roving banSuch
year
every
cases, however, are
rare, and
likelyto be repeated. These rateros are perhaps

deeply imbued

with

Espanolism

as

to

think

it

no

BRITISH

their

of,

country
the

than

make

The

293

OFFICERS.

have

plunder the English,who

to

wrong

ARMY

Gael, in

creagh

still withhold

and

times

higher their

Without

army.

well

to express
qualified
that the higher you

report of

the

as

in the

ascend
manner

ever

the

educated, and
of

navy

"

the

mean

and

polished;

more

conclude

It is

to

Cavendish,
he

as

appear

is ;

strivingat vulgar display.

ficered
English army is much better of-

general rule, the

than

to

me

snobbish.

while

vulgar origin is

better

persons

encounter.

yon

is satisfied

pretentious

English social scale,

that
are
only parvenus
Howard, or a Beaufort,

As

led

opinion,has

an

greater simplicityof

the

are

observation, as

the

than

men

and agreeable. The

civil,
intelligent,
birth, the less they assume.
My personal

they

manners,

English

their

I met

have

Nowhere
foreignconsuls.
more
finer-looking,
gentlemanly set of
the

it sinful to

is the officers and

families,with

officers of

more

Saxon.

the Rock

societyat

best

Gibraltar,

by, thought

gone

the

upon

dispossessed

officers
then

better

are

the true

"

test

do not
cate
indithe officers of the army
gentleman
their profession,
either in their language or deportment.
is nothing of the barrack
There
about them

"

"

odor

no

of the

; while

mess-room

generally inferior

in social

the

officers of

the

rank, not

joyed
having enequal opportunitiesfor the softeningof tone and
and
sometimes
too
neglect their aspirations,
manners,

navy,

often

reveal

Some

years

the

officers

for

rather

so

the

it has

quarter-deck.
since, a

of the

garrison

abundant

been

Saxon

ancestors.

at

Gibraltar

said

"
"

to

Us

this

teach
ont

you

change

to

were

wont

drink

deep

tout

in every

famous

were

cela.

lingeringbarbarism

Moderation

less,

or

more

hospitality.They

departed." Mais
breeding has ruled out
you

quarter century,

habit

"

ere

Good
of their
is haut

294

BRITISH

here, for

/ and

ton

English

I know

There

delightful. The
his

lend

rode

far

as

here

erected

since,and

"

quite so

not

with

their

him.

ever

four

or

the

sunk.

other
to

from

persevered
upon

wont

distant

English

sessions.
pos-

strong fortifications
of

upward

century

the Peninsular

he

would

the

of
?"

which

to

Rolla,

Gibraltar

is carried

from
over

of
"

the
a

they

took

will

the

nor

and

received

if she

that

from

the

leries
gal-

project was

protectionthat, in

the

proverbs :

shuffle the

the Lines

took

dertook
innocently un-

having

broadside

Spaniard

national

they

razed

was

war,

but

"

one

the

this the kind

the

and
hija patience,
"

; the

of

friend

But

when

engaged therein, the

men

our

of Sancho's

forts

pour

as

the fortifications

Commander

Is not

the words

Going

her

This

good ally,Spain

Denmark,

Spain, after

the

their

liberty,however,
of

boundaries

the

English, in

restored

rebuild

abandoned.

the lamb

to

generally

miles

the

has

upon

was

dailyride.

Fifth

Neither

been

cinity
vi-

most

he

called
"

libertywith

great

fleet have

one

also

time

the

by

ally,the King

his fleet from

notice

office in which

Lines," as

one

by Philip the

taking rather

was

is

Roque

hospitality

"

the

at

demolished

at

prevent their occupation by the French.

to

war,

San

to

three

Roque,

were

of the

in the

cheval

separate Spain from

There

tige
pres-

intoxication

himself

for

beyond

officer

an

of the

duties

San

as

powerful

Consul, 3Ir. Sprague, who,

father,thinks

called which

are

ride

American

miles

two

some

excursions

his Arabian

me

is

habitual

his fathei-'s unstinted

continue

it

none.

The

discharging the

to

if there

was

pleasant

are

succeeded

lends

to

there

of Gibraltar.

in

fashion

addicted

army

Gibraltar

ito.v.

I doubt

virtue.

to

once,

ri.'i-iKc

vulture

quiet
"

lends

himself

to

with
y bur-

Paciencia

cards."
castle

marsh

we

; this

cross
can

be

way
cause-

readily

laid underwater

so

while

the

defenders

safe

shore

their

inundate

to

as

of the

formed

such

built
Roque was
capture of Gibraltar; as

they

could

remembering
here

iii

Rock.

retake

not

Many

to

escape

as

the

English

improve, that part

has

the

save

the

there

is

gambol
and

in

glass

kept

in

day,

and

satiated

novel,

and

the

place

and

weep,

quarter

fevers

found

houses

of the
do

and

them

bored

macadamized,
It is all
in

the

with

you

"

children

breaks

you

interesting

"

expense.

incident

around

painted

ruddy
is

jargon
soon

eye

your

"

intended
of

people
to

as

ceasing
reluct

the Club

House

enter

to

"

beef

or

who

is

game
wants

rare

kills at

I found

good

found

within

wanting.

more

It is

those

and

the

oxless

However,

occupation ;

The

home.

beef

in

estimable

none

affairs

Africa, whom

and

ennui

affected, having

be

to

a relay-housefor
stopping-place,

Europe, Asia,

travel,or

seen

upon

the gates every night at sunset, and you long for

freedom
routine.
of action and
less confined
a

only

not

nowhere

were

sights which,

with

after

place they

no

look

are

where

be

to

cease

ears

pregnable.
im-

of the

tires of Gibraltar.

Your

art

place

families

the Lines

to

appropriated to

The

variety of

gibberish every

becomes

occupy

windows,

road

soon

no

its monotony.
and

heat

good repairat English

One, however,
in

the

The

about.

Gibraltar

Roque

English.

and

sit down

comfortable

tidy,

neat,

among

of San

nature

station, I suppose,

there

the

the

chariot-

fine view

from

Spaniards

proper

and

"

Zion.

summer

And

foes ;

broken

make

to

the

by

command

they might

behold

else have

cordiale

entente

an

"

and

floatingcarcases

San

whence

approaching

fort could

Certainlynowhere

wheels."

295

ROQUE.

SAN

towns"

any
unless

place
one

"

cuisine

the
cite
ex-

at

particularly
Spain

"

nor

fish

was

is dull

belongs

for

to

to

him

the

296

EAGERNESS

garrison,
is
As

Cuchares

Rock

Gibraltar.

funcion-)
duty

on

motley
and
and

that
its

took
I

indeed,

could

On
and

character

rather

can

not

had

who
than
better

the

seeks

listlessly

to

pectation
ex-

impressions
this

to

but

thing
you

to

the

The

wedded

any

doms
kingof

leave

occasions

than

four

my
so

Ron-

at

done.

dulled

these

week

all

foregone

one

do

sojourn.

coming

become

have

account.

long

willing

more

perhaps

had,

tar
Gibral-

pursuits,

from

otherwise

Andalusia;

sights,

gatherings.

event

the

expected

were

that

appear

doubtless

than
of

of

to

Andalusia,

of

for

was

crowds

where

da,

BULL-FIGHT.

commercial

recommended

be

not

in

engaged

is

or

THE

FOE

study
view

frequent

all

see

ners
man-

scenes

these

298

of

neck-tie

silk and

match

spatterdashesof

each

the

the

finest

sash of riclu ".-";

or

of the

pocket

it

such

jacket
"

; bot-

russet-leather,open

gaudy hose,

handkerchiefs, be

two

;"

over
JSyron falling

la

variegatedthan Joseph's garment

outside, to show

the

collar

stunning colors; a/o/",

more

tinas, or
on

COSTUME.

shirt with

embroidered

an
a

STUNNING

and

"

shoes

to

said, dangling from

was

; with

costume

my

this,like Sir Hudibras,

did I abandon

"

And

If I met

not

tambien

de nosotros

said

companion,

my

as

You

"

what

harm

also

are

Why

JEsta

"

of

one

mounting

was

if I

doubted,

Andalusians

the

like

dress

Ronda,

at

if I was,

recognized, and

in Andalusia

usted

acquaintances

any
be

would

I rode

out

dwelling
colonelling."

us"

horse

my

"

to

start.

On

the

neutral

ground

cricket-ground,which
break

to

and

bring

to

los

agrada

su

porrada

this I inferred
or

games,

fresher

those

fool

every

"

had

the

ever-loaded

quickened
me

wish

my

pace

in its range,
to trust

quiere usted
tampeco

"

I either."

you

in each

"

and

life to
los

do

even

cuernos

not

gun

might

might

be

such

remote

del

cada

folly."

own

disliked

these

of

farewell

yawning

this

aperture

go

off,it might

killed.

Who

horns

reach

would

?
possibility

toro," said Jose,

like the

necio

death, I involuntarily

of

instrument

his

them.

to

them.

take

to

lished
estab-

garrison-life,

nearer

either

instituted

Turning partiallyround
I beheld
as
monster-fortress,

of

"^4

likes

attendant

my

who

and

Jose.

Ingleses," said

de

and

passed a race-course
English officers have

uniformity

dull

England

"Cosas

From

the

the

old

we

of the

"

"

ni

No
yo

bull, nor

At

San
and

water

with

Roque,
Jose

where

stopped

we

to

give the

capita de aguardiente,

una

gipsy party

299

FORTUNE-TELLER.

bound

like

for

us

horses
fell in

we

There

Ronda.

JOSE.

were

half

dozen

them.

girls among

The

prettiest,

bright-eyed, dark-haired, olive-colored, accosted

and

asked

though
which
usual

my

me

Jose

she

to

is blood

her

tell my

remonstrated,

and

gave

She

first looked

your

her

gave

significant
glance
path," she said,

at

while

antes

the

catching

and
Jose

hand,

my

all the

at me,

"

upon

I assented

fortune.

wisely studied, muttering

gibberish.
eye,

let

me

"

que

There

te cases,

300

DOLLAR'S

WORTH.

haces," a proverbialexpressionwhich
before you
to look
leap, whether
you

lo que

mira

matrimonial

journey

for her kind

she wanted

her what

alma

(daughter

avert

the

I will

"

replied.

she

of

She

pesetas, but I could

give

laughed,

warning.

wished

have

Mala

beso

un

and

won

her

Jose, as

along, gente de reputation

Jose, I am told they are very

very

bad

"

and

pierde
may
I

los

dientes,

his

lose

of

inquired

monkey

crossed

cave

of San

Moors

Barbary

of the
was

Wamba,"

he

time, long
intended
once

who

the

on

time

to

plunder.
of their
side of

un

time

it was

robbers

follow
did

of

For

long

time

to

the mouth

"

En
mas

entrance,

and

feasting. These

honest
lobo
wolf

the

supposed

they had a
through
these
days
and

el

tarde

he

pursued,or
they

to

After

del

and
awhile

going in, caught

the

rey

have

may

Jose

said

robbers,

country and
hoard

maintained

cave,

the

inite
indef-

famous
the

terranean
sub-

When

"

some

"

the

get possession

t\empo

Probably

of the
men.

But

El

before.

strongholdof

when

cave

"

"

them

once

before."

Jeredthe foot-printsof
the

said

depredations all round

the

erly,
form-

as

their

the

till some
hiding-place,
people from
the straits,
chasing the monkeys one

them

out

he

one

poco

the

"

than

capture of the place by Tarik.

committed

retreated

He

him.

said,"o

been
traveled

will be

way

that

would

asked

to

four

the

we

mientes

mi

only

people."

communication

rock, as they

that ?"

tas,"
pese-

his habits."

straits ?

Michael, and

from

las

in what

submarine

or

Dos

had

replied.

asked

if

better

he

no
never

Jose
the

/"

mas

teeth, but

much

by they

Jamas

"

nosotros."

como

and

perhaps by

"

"

face

said

"

and

pocketed

gente"

"

in

double, hija de

you

soul)por

my

omen."

little cleaner.

other.

or

ommends
rec-

secret

the

other

day, pursued

there

discov-

they

of the

some

they seized, and by

found

means

of

compelled them

torture

The

confederates.
their

on

"

Que

those

lastima

/"

Jose

? and

who

captured

For

them

carefully. Our
in

been

carried

planted in
animal

my

which

along,
and

could

on

and

by Hannibal,
the

relief

against the

descent

attractive

memories

of the

yield a

the

various

The

the
rich

nations

when

they

had

mind

good,

goodness

About

hours

two

the river

sight

Guadiaro,

of the

after
where

and

doubtless

properly attended

chesnut

trees.

Wild

shrubbery

leaving San
we

rich

every

Roque
refreshed

were

clumps

flowers, heath

abounded

to.

to

Spain,

indicated

soil.

and

of orange-groves,

since

vated,
unculti-

mostly

was

with

served

palms, the gift of Abderahman

flourishingthough neglected condition

the natural

he

in bold

out

filled the

land

if

V.

headland, they made

soil seemed
harvest

atdlr

erected

many

whose

quietly

ground.

Standing

spectacle,and

establishment.

though

saw

safely

way

coast

Charles

the

sky, upon

quite an

would

the

give

to
me

carry

the

had

left them

me

did, picking his

of Barbarossa.

feared

their

told

would

repaired by

clivities
de-

of the

rocks, and

rightalong

our

should

we

watch-towers, which, it is said,were

or

ayas,

or

apparently slidingover
see

versed
tra-

we

torrents, which

and

he

he

Roque

Some

My companion

indeed

sometimes

We

of

stones

rein, and

the

still."

valley,slowly and

fall.

bed

the

road.

the

San

Moors

the

"

surefooted

were

down

tured
cap-

hung,

were

replied,

of hill and

of many

but

he

from

more

route

danger

part way

Pity they

greater robbers

horses

seemed

"

Because,"

or

for,and

wait

marauding expedition;
taken, they afterward
hung.

were

diversified

have

"

and

said.

he

leagues

two

from

first

?"

why

they lay in

latter

with

whom,

their misdeeds

disclose

to

return

301

ALONG.

SLIDING

we

struck
with

of cork

blossoms, and

where.

We

the
and
uriant
lux-

crossed

302

river

the

by

of

means

Venta

the

to

TELLING.

STORY

ferry,and

Guadiaro,

de

secluded

think, purposely from

would

pursued

road

our

inn, hidden,

travelers.

Our

one

ride

had

lost no
time
healthy appetite,and we
which
was
callingspiritsfrom
ordering supper

given

us

in

the

"

vasty deep.

not

but

the

thing :

every

his

eaten

fowls, some

beef, and

bread.

had

the

palate and

the

their way

on

Cuchares

of every

the theme

to

the

having just finished

lamented
of the
I
whom

that

at

tongue, and

To

broken

by just
time

by

his

of my

I do

escape

moment's
to

be

fourth
the

not

not

corrida

leap of

day before,

My

every

him.

of his

As
late

what

I,
ploits,
ex-

not

know
that

the

Jose

mii-

dislike
how

quite

was

even

long

gained

me

abruptly
I had

over

the

and

told

of the

inn

bull

friends

I had

the

rather

(inwhich

to

I became

among

spring backward)

moving.

the

eyes,

narrative

consideration,had
the

their

truth, I did

the

most

tell of the

to

I
particularly,

more

merits

the

was

ponderacion
In

honors, and

in upon

any

narrative,and

crowd,

fair

admiring audience,

an

much

His

behind

day

witnessed

continued

have

to

wns

the

at the

Algeciras,and

at

Cadiz.

confess

vicarious

much

were

had

with

of the

lionized.

so

they

Seville and

chachas

funcion

surrounded

was

part of the hero

should

crowd,

I narrated

these

Estepona

annual

appear.

popular speech who had most anecdotes

great bull-fighter.He had only gone up

seen

of

of persons

where

Honda,

to

held, and

be

to

alone

with

way

pleasant to

tolerablywell.
quite a goodly collection

was

inn, all

one

ton,
mut-

fried fish and

bottle

had

his

made

left but

had

Rock

devoured

had

this,however, and

had

succeeded

There

were

landlord

from

nothing

was

gratefulto

most

we

was

officers

hidalgos

there

"With

wine,
eye,

The

come.

party of English travelers

his

It did

termined
de-

barrier
me

it

parted

MOUNTAIN'

with
I

me

saluted

was

"

and
reluctantly,

very

God

with

go

From
wore

with

the

along
perilous,with
stones

with

path

intimation

of

loose

In its eccentric
Madeira
of

fantastic

where

rude

where

the

deeds

boldness

it reminded

death

the

light,was
But

dare-devil

look,

speech that
on
heaps of

annihilated

bear

the

stones

"

Arabs.

and

an

was

very

rendered

had

every

doubtless

an

place

spot

to

memorate
com-

pervious
deep glens,im-

gloomy

more

of such

good-natured, though
of

These

and

manner

raised

crosses,

passer-bycontributes,

victims, and
It is

of

reassuring spectacle

yet

insouciance

which

up

unsuspected

not

one

many

put

me.

much

in either

of the

suspicion.

of the

name

untimely departure.
cumuli

Jose

and

to

of

very

been

solitude

companionship
himself.

; not

sympathy,
around

scenery

passed

had

peared
ap-

overpowering

an

been

We

fearful

his constant

me

nature

of wood

cross

the remote

to

by

stupendous

The

falling

"

from

in

so

rolled

Still Jose

smoked

at the

violent

far below

of fear

extravagance.

hold

heard

were

and

mount,
disour

deep gullies.

adventure.

has

progress

ascent, and

the

pool

we

wall, separates

feet, dragging

gained confidence

prodigal

so

as

places to

their insecure

some

lost ah1 sentiment

our

some

and

from

hazardous

our

of wonder

sense

in

was

stones

detach

cigarro de papel.
soon

Dios

con

perpendicular

barred

and

totallyunconcerned,
and

and

steep

so

deep splash in

way,

steep,

more

frightfulprecipiceand

some

usted

Many

hands

us,

the

would

we

door

which, like

turn, and

to
on

with

Sierra

our

crawl

horses

Vaya

became

Gibraltar.

confronted

and

"

of

road
the

from

compelled

were

down

the

venta

Grenada

ridge that

I left the

as

you."

ascending

now

we

shower

303

PATHS.

the

oriental

introduced

dates
custom

by

of their
"

these

the conquering

304

MOUNTAIN

Gaucin, perched
nest,
ascent

up

nature

in

such

convulsive

way

as

of

I can't

"

But

after

him

in

of
he

some

ascended

the

ladders

did get up
to

opposed
un-

with
down

come

fell with

harness

the

soldier

fighting gloriously against

enemies

"

of his faith and

the

view

from

his

on

back,

best

as

Gaucin

perilsof

its Moorish

castle,the prospect is superb. Beneath

the

From

ascent.

the top of
is

banks, and

Guadiaro, chafing its steep

foaming against the rocks; atalayas crest

the summit

toward

raises

torrent

her

of

armament

"

to

Gibil

front, and

skies

old Moors

The

could

the

Catholic

indulge in

well-spread table.

Muza

her

from

this

Africa

the victorious

kings" besiegingMalaga.
I had

later.

was

Gibraltar

discerned

have

beleaguered fastness,or

this view

arrival

of

their

southward

sea, while

beyond.

in the

hasteningto

my

the

head

watch-tower

But

the

weather-beaten

Titanic

gray

of

the

perhaps,

compensates,

and

dark

comes
be-

nation.

the trouble

the

of

and

night

never

"

Bueno

He

again.

But

Mist

by

Tarifa)

unless

"

darkness

the

rock
El

Ardenvoh, "by

understand.

follower

stout

many

solid

surrender

not

let's
mart-

laborious

Guzman

of the

of

like
and

in the

cavaliers

Children

Knight

slow

by

How

his

in
saplings,"

or

it

would

with

the

the

fit.

who

here

up

withies

Good

the

ridge,looked

indented

stairway

got

castle

cleft

approached

we

(Guzman
ever

as

on

VIEWS.

any

If,as

on

that

prospect than

other
Dr.

inclination

no

"

Johnson

the

says,

beheld
was
ever
gloriousprospect a Scotchman
the high road
leading from Edinburg to London,"
the most
have been, at this
gratefulone to me would
juncture,a porter-housebeef-steak on its travels from
most

warm

Neither

procured

plate to
beef
at

nor

the

an

empty

stomach.

mutton,

flesh

Posada

de la Paz

Dis
nor

aliter

fowl,
that

msum.

was

evening.

to

be

The

306

MUOU1SH

pushes

the face

on

to

mere

VESTIGES.

of the

threads, and

the

deserts

of

oozing lazilythrough
of reckless

torrents
"

had

That

would

be

with

and

the

said, " then

off from

in their
for

were

inundations

foaming

streams

having anticipatedsuch
I found

previously.

The

their

airy summits,

to

I had

having

autumnal

an

of

said

from

excelled.

Nomenclature

villageswe

passed had

bad, and

face

the

often
the

of

the

husband, wife, and

Jose's

attention

crossed

himself, and

"Ah,"
one

of my

great
nino

the

to

said

he, "I

friends,un

reputation. He
(little
son),on

knew

Jiombre
was

this

origin;
than

the

the

murdered

spot, while

well.
a

with
he

names

I called

of much

man

"

deep

singular. He

as

Men

usually

the

child.

symptoms

de

and

into

contained

circumstance

exhibited

prised
sur-

Moors

the

broken

of three

"

of

agriculture

"

more

victims

dens
gar-

names.

country
which

irmch

in which

ravines, I noticed

cross

form

so

habits

was

to

indications

not

was

Moorish

road

I had

ing
hard-workto

many

too, indicates

place where

one

the

below

sciences

the

in

glad

was

cultivated

were

Jose

earth

inclination

industry than

mountains

up

of

one

he

tempest.

more

heights. As I saw
lineage on my route, I
find vestigesof Moorish

been

roads,"

no

rivers,I

these

to

thing

overwhelming
The

As

which

peasants carried
Moorish

said,

ravines,would

"

course.

across

the appearance

seen

on

Jose

days impassable,and villagescut

swim

or

no

tiny streams,
raging torrents,

"

become

intei-communication."

ford

At

the

fearful

rivers

thing

every

floods

so

"

and

in,every

oi"

perceptible,would

scarce

But

barrancas,

maddened

sand

swim,

to

set

tempest

quiet rills

and

stone

minished
di-

streams

rivers but

overleap.

to

The

changed.

be

now

water

the

"

rivers

no

autumnal

an

swollen

to

had

fortunatelywe

that

mountains

He

caballero
his wife
was

ness.
sadwas

of
and

honestly

AX

to

He

bribe.

good

was

the

to

Jose

Murdered,

whenever

poor;

he

usuallyheavy, he divided
for himself,one
parts one

the

"Where,"

poor."

naivete, " where, Jose, did he find

for them."

friend

undertook
But

laden.
his wife

and

child

?"

They

had

fame

he

No,

for

with

?"

"

purses

had

warned

paid

would

Well,

devoted
he

senor,

Ronda,

with

when
hill,

he

only

carabine
road

"

going

was

that

"

for he

knew

the wife

up.

get behind
with
saw

the
him,

day

could

Pepe
the

told

rock

his

but

to

carabine.

said.
the

been

well

the

advice,

profession.

this very

fair of

ascending

was

less
un-

of these

this

drels.
scoun-

friend

"

was

his wife with

as

gente

on

himself.

this
The

stop, threatening at the

forward,

came

see

to

mala,

as

his wife

you

scoundrels;
raise

shoot

he

canaille,he

his

armed

were

to

and

"

had

to

of my

had

him

on

these

to

name

there

end

assassinate

He

three

by

the

time, to fire unless

himself

one

himself,but

rascallypolicecalled
same

more

child,and

was

heavily

good luck, and

attention

the

had

; your

well-wishers,that

no

overtaken

was

armed

and

"

himself

the

police,as

deeds.

some

gave

fair to

they

share

to

earningsto

his wife and

Pepe
not

; he

his

good

tithe of his

In other

drels
ungrateful scoun-

the

envied

of

the
some

the

untimely

the

was

again,by

be troubled

only

helped

for his

again and

he

he had

time

got

burden
this

three

Virgin, and
I,

Did

; it

more

understand, Jose

to

very

into

said

too?

senor

some

; I

he

came

burden
"

them

Yes

relieve the

to

how

whose

but

"

and

purse

people's pockets,senor.
People going to
purchase horses, or returning with the money
received

?"

refused

hombre,

found

for

whom

had

its contents

"

for the

by

"

he

mild, inoffensive

than

other

307

CITIZEN.

whom
gavachos, the police,

these

By

"

business."

pursuing his
"

INOFFENSIVE

to

take

and

delivered

the

nino, and

there, while he parleyed

fire upon

Well,

them,
senor,

if she

although

308

of

account

wife

in

made

this very

never

at

he

as

it

see

they

"

with

he refused
if

he raised
of

As

the

firing.

But

which

in want

of

ing
up, knowhe

would

leveled

their guns

both

sides with

wife, obeying

his

the

signal,fired,and

brought down one

police; the others immediately discharged their
and
who
Pepe. The woman,
mortally wounded
brave

the

as

Cid,

loaded
tigress,
of

One
other

God

killed

by

Neither

were

wounded.
He

road."

fate.

But

to

woman

The

shot ; I believe
scoundrels

my

of

his

railway-car,or
days

the

greater
the

we

filled

insidious

ard,
cow-

ly
accidental-

nino, ah1

him
two
were

sufiiciently
Pepe's
poor

from

of

would

the

ductor
con-

stage-driver.

path we

traversed

now

It

romance.

was

faiths
conflicting

by the

the

popular on the
being popular

very

of
larger scale,and murders
character,illustrated its history. These
on

fired.

they murdered
killed,
though

sympathies
as

cubless

The

was

profession was

him,

was

sabe
killed,

was

he

highwayman

divert

battle-groundof

was

and

man,

of
of

of

blood.

boy

guns,

and

arm,

Pepe, wife, and

victims

in other

the

the

policesaid

good

spoke

scenes

the

in cold

idea

Jose
of

down

But

was

the

ludicrous

woman

of the

The

among

hit in

How

the

as

concerted
pre-

of the

and
possible,

was

chance

raging

as

quicklyas

as

knows.

too.

dead.

now

scoundrels

shoot

"

again

the

shot
to

Dios

the

and

had

day

money

they

to

the

give himself

probably 011

"

Pepe

travelers

some

they got
his

listen

his person,

on

to

fight,on

would

surrender.

again. Whereupon

intention

wish

not

suspectedthe policewere

that

well

him, and

no

transaction

amount,

very

child

of money

amount
a

before, and

did

unconditional

an

considerable

he

and

FEMALE.

for he

"

his

but

nothing

fair

them

Pepe spoke

TO

DISCOUKTESY

Moslem

"

more

these

nessed
wit-

oftentimes

; and

ies
robber-

sanguinary

barrancas

ramblas

were

dense

OF

ROMANCE

of

Moor, watching the

tm-baned

Avith the

lit up

their

advance

Castile

mountains

the

Arragon

with

glen,whose bed of
of their cavalry; or
ledge, where

the

atalaya, and

cliff

every

mountaineers.
baned

look

heads

combined
rock

rock,

to

Many

cavalier

them

arm

goes

bites the

The

dust.

with

swarms

pass

every

cliff and

Suddenly
valleys:

is that I hear?"

commander
"

of

good
The

El

heard

learns

demons.
brave

many

to

unearthed

the
; for

retreat

foemen,
and

towers

and

ments
battle-

resounding along

Zagal!"

echoed

times

exclaims

the

war-cry

of

tur-

of Castile wavers,

van

countless

it

perated
exas-

and

of

terror

from

repeated.

Grand-Master
El

Zagal,

Malaga," repliesone
thousand

old

the

cliffto
What

"

of Santiago.

the

valiant

Castilian

times, and

dier
solto

never

fortune."

Master
"

our

is the

I have

the

is heard

cry

up, and

"It

my

new

Zagal!

El

taken

"

cry

"

death

an

bounding leap from

precipice become

fraughtwith

features

bushed
am-

crag

the

down, and

the

the

each

"

ing
hurl-

flickering
light; and,

Leon

Arragon halts,and

every

cliff

with

spotlessbanner

of

array

in the

fiercer

precipitous

summon

dusky

Their

deep

the passage

reveal

"

of

superior

some

some

alarm-fires

frantic gesture and

with

in

arrows

beacon

and

foothold, the

goat gains no

thousand

In

mountaineers

impedes

to pass

whistling of

enemy.

hardy

rocks

undertake

wild

and

stones

the

entangled

broken

left behind

garisliflame.
haughty cavaliers

equal bravery

become

they

had

the

to

the

forget

their progress

While

of

spread

were

with

Ronda,

upon

and

bar

skill.

pranking array

Awhilethe burning villagesthey

them

who

banners

gaudy

Castile, whose

breeze

309

HISTOKY.

Let

of
us

hearts, since

Santiago

die," said he
we

may

not

addresses
"

with

his

making
our

arms.
fellows-inroad

swords.

with
Let

us

310

DISASTER

the mountain

scale

remaining
friend

he

In this

dearly,instead

of

No

be

here.

the

saw

no

back

man,

of the

hangs back.

one

contends

Grand-

with

The

est
mean-

the

proudest knight.
at
nothing against personal prowess

is

MAN

like these.

is every
is lost

Grand-Master

standard, steed

it :

butchered

ever

of honor

race

Emblazonry
of the

lives

our

Santiago !"

foot-soldier

times

sell

tamely

foe, yet

or

of

Master

and

be

to

KETKEAT.

AND

and

the

"

The

thing.

standard
with

standard-bearer

rider have

down

all gone

over

and
precipice,
passed from crag to crag, mutilated,
ley.
dashed
in the valto
atoms
are
disfigured,disjointed,
a

The

trumpet

nor

"

anger

this

have

moved

made

the

God

of

scum

and

soldiery of

had

prisoners,a
these

was

pages

one

of the

famous

of

pursuers
with

the

in

the

by

the

taken

story of disgrace.

sad

olden

his

direction.

were

some

from

turned

fell

many

thy

picked

not

every

occurrences

many

times

originalluster

all their

with

in

mountains,

escaped

and

Santiago

scattered

avenging

which

made

; and

which

in the

ing
revivify-

Irving.

friend

Jose

Santiago,nor

had

My

of

few

places
shine

now

Master

in the

lost

of the

Such

fly."

hast
of

the

over

wrath,

now

his troops

than

Avere

sword

the

Thou

instruments

the

to

shortcomings

endurance.

Thy

From

hands

great is thine

the infidel

exalted

boors, do I

sooner

Many

hast

his

Our

servants.

earth

the

"

The

longer.

raises

he,

thy long

Castile.

peasants and

horse,

!" exclaimed

last

at

aghast ; banner

follow

to

JEneas,

as

day againstthy

vengeance,

No

pious

as

Oh

made

be

they

can

Grand-Master,
heaven

stand

affrightedmen-at-arms

had
he

pleasantestauthor.

Espanolism, he

had

never
ever

heard
read

the

Indeed, though
never

read

the

of

the

Master

of

tales of America's
much
works

imbued
of

with

Spanish

311

KONL"A.

writers.

him,

reply to

as

Sancho

Ronda
he

but

duda,

sin

I asked

"

and

had,

side, who

knowledge,

of this world

than

he

could

avowed

read

to

me

as

in

It

"

affected.

I may

arises from

Spain, and

the eyes
As

exchanged

we

be with
a

This

you."

stranger, and

ruddy

more

generally on

these

mountainous

their

features,and

series

passed
"

the

of

treatment

the

of serrated

the

and

The

bound

the

ridges to

which

is ii died

accessible
the

air of

The

town

made

castle

itself
of the

waters

of

to

gait.

It rises in

by the
by means

Moorish

their

first land

Cadiz.

the clouds.

than

of health

hue

is the
to

girlswere

bracing

to
springing elasticity

Atlantic

God

"

vigorous

The

Ronda

with

sexes

first proffered

more

coast.

sea

hastening
Dios

con

is seldom

regions gave

clingsto a rock, which

Guadiaro, and is only
precipitousroad

usted

Vaya

unreturned.

never

of both

many

salutation

mountain-rangeof

by ships on

uncommon

crowds

saw

we

of countenance,

those

This

Ronda

We

its walls.

whom

thalmia,
oph-

early youth.

approached

we

toward

to

in

This

not

of proper

want

asked

he had

crosses."

before, is

said

have

being

his eyes
"

the

on
inscriptions

in his

them, he frankly

to

said,

the reason," he

out

children

the

to

without

them

read

not

was

the

As

books.

many

Moris-

advantage

some

useful

was

Jose

draw

to

to

men

told, more

am

He

evidentlynot

were

had, however, read

He

line.

his mother's

against the

attempt

literarysubjects,for they

on

"

not

Quixote

him.

battle

won

gent.
intelli-

very

by

about

de Men

Don

uncle

an

him

told

this I did

After

coes."

he had

had

great warrior, and

him

read

never

arriero,and

hombre

un

to

kneAV

He

an

was

"

Panza

own.

thought

never

but

Seville

if he had

him

No," he said

"

had

He

me.

and

Sancho

of his

proverb

some

well, he told

very
between

went

sayings of

repeated some

narrow

completely

"A

312

enfilades.
who

up, and

should
would

been

think

the

and

from

the

For

have

for such

features

Moorish

mills

are

chasm, every

where

around

action,Nature's
The

beauty.

sympathies ;

the vast

penetrate, and
with

the

strike the
river

time

rushes

and

liberty,like
in

rainbow
rock-built

ramparts;

tastic
fan-

most

such

waking

or

From

copy;

the

I took

where

old
my

wonders,

above, arches

to

the
in

ecstasies clothe

selves
them-

of

the

storm-scarred

bottom
mind

origin no

earliest

no

roar

eye

can

reconcile,

can

of waters, whose

deep

pose
re-

unseen

gles
strug-

of angry

lions ;

rocky prison,where for some

been an
and
untamed
unyielding captive,
impetuously and rejoicinglyinto sun-light

and

high

suffering

was

solemn, bespeak your

like the

it bursts

as

it has

the power

aspect!

above, beneath,

abyss, whose

mass

ear

you,

features

whose

distracts

is its

its attendant

gorgeous

rocks, cloud-capped and

the

and

she

feet

his

baffled

prototype

no

valley below,

six hundred

One

perpetuity of

repeated.

chasm, and

bridge which,

sonorous

has

never

in the

of the

in

have

.conceived

tajo,or chasm,

employed,

she, in her

not

raised

Ronda.

out

while

dreams,

could

reality. The

or

lay

to

story

that

was

puzzles,comprehension,
wild, so chaotic,so fearful

humor,

the

he

long as

so

directed

night-mare !

first view

of the person

behests

of Nature's

one

German

or

It

"

was

Arabian

undertaking might
given to his employer

enjoyment.
thought so
It

of

be harmless

to

have

powers,

the

BEAUTY."

OF

demon

obey

to

Avas

him

The

THING

of
the

its

fabled

knight

heavens,

and

againstthe sky ;
city;
the

the

so

light as

and

but

seem

the

air,in earth, and in the

under

dizzy

the

robber-holds

the

earth

in

life in

motion, the

neighboring cliffs;the noise,

of the

walls

turrets, and

fastnesses

waters

to

frowning

the

moss-grown

savage

suspended arch,

; the

enchantment

some

old, breaking from

of

"

make

which

view

of

heart

the

no

been

has

nor

seen,

conceive.

to

man

have

might

has

eye

315

INTRODUCTION.

EQUIVOCAL

AN

Without

happy; having
forever

"

possession, a joy

it entered

seeing Rpnda,
it, I have

seen

It is the

!"

into

the

the

and

bolero,

Jose

welcomed

and

of

shouts

/"

moza

myself to Ronda,

revelry accompanied
Jose

tripping along

there

/li/ichada,que

tono

of

"

what

with

da!"

se

and

as

ed
thread-

we

dresses,and
"Que

buena

"Muy

caballero."
is very

she

Don

Jose

?"

Jose

exchanged

Jose,

"

exclaimed

"

de

uno

mine, and
I

his friend and

the

posada

of the
tell
a

his friend

good

very
y

The

well-bred

of

embustero,

Jose

take

person,

in

talent

his
"

upon
Where-

are."

I invited

them

into

in sanction

side-opportunityto

ihefuncion

barring that

liar.
incorrigible
had a great power
bull-functionary

his natural

to

nosotros

come

we

troduced
in-

then

said

copita,

una

took

engaged

was

sort

as

nice."

majo.

en

and
he

formal

make

's the news,

kill"

to

amigos"

tan

might

we

What

embraces

embraced, and

acquaintance.

me

ndnte

that

as

and

mes

"_Ek hombre

companion.
of

salutations

"

dressed

man

"

me

friend

tal ?

que

and

proud,

"

! Senor

is

pretty girl that

"I will
gives herself great airs," replied Jose.
others
see
gudpitas uncommonly
muy
you
"JTola

feet

twinkling

us.

old

the

of

mazes

gay

streets, festive

narrow

I to

said

castanet, the

quick glancing

and

its tortuous
the

of the

livelynotes

The

"

of

complement

existence.

my

he

de
was

toros
tu-

an

in that

direction

of

excited

three

talk, and

or
by two
garrulous as

him
as
copitasof aguardiente made
old woman.
In vain Jose, who
wanted
to say
a vieja
sayed
something, and I who wished to inquire something, esturbid
to interpose. The
tion
g\ish of his conversa"

broke
carried

down,

every

or

overleaped

thing before

our

frail

it to the Dead

barriers,and

Sea of oblivion.

316

FLUENCY.

For
could

of

this

of

His

arrival

meda

his

of

number

But

upon.
mouth
still

and

talk

and

perceived

to

me

some

times,
to

"

tired

he

he

would

shiit

of

finally
nature's

his

of

his

if

even,

of

Jose,
a

hard

the

functionary's

got

him
sweet

out

day's

of

restorer."

"

he

mented
com-

would
could

slept,

sleep
his

not

he

would

however,

who

journey

were

drowsy

assertions
the

Ala-

the

etc.,

incoherent

given

had

he

theme.

prowess

hoped,
he

this

Aaron's

on

etc.,

eyes,

Cuchares.

effects

and,

that
of

as

kill,

upon,

feared

the

me,

upon

if

talk

that

telling

three

mingled

"

bulls

no

time

inimitable

his

cut

we

fed

the

refrain

that

appearance

condition

enlarged

upon,

that

course,

the

"

sanitary

"

of

his

till

auditors

scarcely

But

on

was,

before

day

the

run

Cuchares

and

topics,

his

morning

reservoir

have

Hisfuncion

his

nor

speech.

the

might

he

he

next

of

waste

with

eternity.

rod

the

reckless

stream,

with

mind

to

communication

noisy

neither

that

recalled

have

word
off

confident

am

posada,

two

and

swers
an-

or

left

CHAPTER

VIEW

FROM

T1IB

MOORISH

ALAUEDA

"

XXVII.

MOONLIT

"

CASA

LA

TOWER"
BCENERY

RET

DBL

MORO

UOG-FUNCION

"

FAIR

TUB

"

FECIT

"

FIGHT
BULL-

"

WILD

"

BOAB

HUNT.

THE

rises

sun

found

never

the

early

untainted

Slight
covered
white
man

still

like

lay

little

little

so

is the

pure

health

is
like

but,

and

on

is

My

mind

full

these
where

of

instant

their
God
of

azala,
of

Isaac,

Mohammed,

time

Nature

could

and
and

the
was

of

and

of
and

dies

from

to

the

fatal

their

For
of

glow

disease,

ground.

complaint

of

men

"

still wondrous

called

from

alike

was

also

accessible

to

repeating
The

supplication.

Jacob,

fore
be-

worshiped,

muezzin

refrain

is

man,

they

the

morning

God

women,

the

pottones

where

hardly

earliest

or

health.

remorseless

more

distant,

was

attire"

chickens.
and

or

every

with

only
son

mere

Moors

from

that

the

glens.

old

one

and

lowland

men,

quietly

and

are

of

altars

prayer,

no

ochenta

the

by

mosque

and

caps,
night-

or

holiday

mountains

here,

Ronda

edifices, unhurt

ruddy

habille.
des-

en

crags;

Ronda

old

fruit, drops

hombres

at

all
"

these

chronic

los

years

girls

the

their

in
"

nuit,

wrinkled

into

embrace

to

possible,

de

upon

ninas

cheek,

every

Honda

eighty

specks

of

ripened

Longevity
En

air

old

the

crowds

ninos,

if

bonnets

Coming

rustic

viejos, viejas,
boys

of

tops

moving.

was

I beheld

side

like

but

heights,

forth

Nature,

catch

clouds,

the

mists

Yet

and

air,

sallied

laggard.

me

mountain

these

on

the
to

God
the

318

METAPHYSICS

that

hangs

the earth in throes

requireshardened
a

thou

trod

never

wished

Some

beneath

to

the

hast

hast

frightfulprecipice,thou
I leave
thyselfbelow"
judge

decide.

to

One

thing

experience

uncontradicted
of that

often

of the

by
a

Muhamad

"to
"

the

This

was

Ben
with

beauty,

in

even

selected

the

damsels, all
a

into the

to

entertained

much

which

time

some

as

of

"When
the

his

for

his

since

Abed,

have

gone

of him

says

he

as

father he

but

person,

cruel

was

tained
main-

tained
main-

countries

and

he became

king,

of
own

eight

that

hundred
As

males

than

nature

he

"

delights."

of females

contend

house

slaves,exquisitein

number

larger number

world,

Aben

Conde

different

the

should

of seventy

cost."

his harem

Ismail

passions,and

from

immense

extended

is

his

monomaniac

centuries

singularlybeautiful

preciousharem

at

born

of

of

slave

eight

Aben

name,

teries
mys-

heart, is

Rey Moro,

his beard."

with

prince was

voluptuous ;

there

long

from

hazard, a frightful,

some

Muhamad

barber's

the

del

casa

king, built

Moorish

monarch

qualifiedto

the many

to

throw

to

incontestible

to encounter,
at whatever
intensity,
and therefore
fascinatingperil.

la

of

verge

wished
better

If thou

"

greatest mystery, the human

I visited afterward

Hast

the

the

seems

impulse, amounting

vehement

"

whether

that among

"

selves
our-

hast

trod

others

to

cast

not, thou

true

have

feel

precipice and

or

so,

such

we

said

rather

ever

must

"

If

be

propositionbe

has

fearful

this

loved, and

ever

of

verge

Whether

of the

converse

occasions

writer

thyself below?

throw

loved!"

never

German

It

upon

impulsive thought, to

an
half-inclination,

of

below.

unmoved,

such

on

tower

production

I looked

as

gaze,

is it that

How

fearful fall.

to

nerves

that

"

felt sick

and

"

Moorish

the

to

chasm

mighty

the

over

PHYSICS.

I went

faith.

of either

votaries

AND

as

well

IVOKY

authorizes

Mohammed

as

be, let

may

the

of

Conde

impiety, or

the

five-and-twentyfortresses

but

one

he gave

aljama to

be

command

that

should
such

train

in

cups,

and

rubies

This

destroyed

reviving a

was

with

obsolete
Odin

and

From

this

formed

them,

upon

that

but

It is to

raged

between

with

out

that

made

were

his

enemies,

and

sword."

supposed had
Scandinavians,the followers
for

of the

century.
harder

no

when
be

almost

Moslem

and

magnificent
beautifully
a

cups

hand

own

I descended

long

come
beof

"short"

tune

almost

the

to

solid rock.
learned

It must

have

than

they in

had

remembered

of

been

whose

had

enslaved
the

wars

either side

condemned

had

task

centuries

seven

"

of

imposed

and

during

were

only crime

hard

return

hopeless bondage.
and
Isabella,devoted

kings,"Ferdinand
the unhappy Moors,

I found

Conde

Christian,prisonerson
themselves

means

the middle

captured
that

by

There

from

uninterruptedly for
and

river

captivesabout

they

incapable of ransoming
severe

singular

within

it in

singularand
gold and jacinth,emeralds

his

custom

Christian

the Moors

them.

had

of these

I afterward

by

the fourteenth
for

He

great personages,

were

house

grotto, which

been

to

therein

silver.

or

stair-case cut

maintain

of

hand

palace of pleasure

sufficed

bowls

the

Thor, who

crockery
of

; the

other

placed

assembled

in all
caused

Ronda, and

garnished with

skulls of such

he had

as

Pie

rich treasure

decorated

the

reputation

the

beautiful

as

"

the

on

for his use."

respect

one

recess

from

servants

readiness

perpetual
taste

of

tainted

he
lordship,

; but

in

about

religion,and

of his

most

be constructed

his

to

erected
a

further

obtained

slightlyattached

but

being

that

somewhat

was

least had

at

writes

"He

long-named caliph:

with

However

polygamy.

what

see

us.

319

tiOBUETS.

The

Catholic

thousands
been

to

of

attach-

320

the

at

even

well

faith

their

to

merit

exercise

The

the

trout,

delicious;and
a

as

of

novelty
or
they

dishes.

have

never

indeed, I found

an

with

they

which

condition
and

They

don't

eaten

the

of the

Honda

sun

their fate

to

atmosphere,

or

seeming
After

and

The
dark

long

hair

ribbons

the

real Andalusian

rose

; it

street, and
different
There

Protean

were

the fair

in

luxuriant

ruddy

contributions
the

celibacy,

disposition

The

in

cue,

to

soft and

gaudy

interwoven

with

whiskers, curled

girlwas
save

were

fine Cordovan

with

content

by

to

single

uncovered,

passed booths

the fair

colors.

backward,

face it surmounted.

plaza,we

the

among

combed

was

mayo

grace.

every

ferocity

fecundity,

circulated
shone

majas

of the

; his wavy

on

stream

equally
for
qualifications

jet-blackhair unornamented,
was
parted in the middle, and

well became

them,
trolled
flavor,con-

other

their

me

and

plaited,terminating

her

In

morning.

and

majos

gay

leave

for

breakfast, Jose

people.
The

had

fish each

new

perpeutal
own
minds,

age,

"

The

their

many

"

They

cuisine.

trout.

accidents.

these, among
powerful accidents, determined
the

their

know

ever-

But

caught, the resignationor

submitted

they

for

sigh

who

What

for these

intolerable

so

any

luscious.

was

be, but

countless

were

antecedents

those

eaten

ever-piquantvariety of

perhaps by
in which

fruit

flavor

usual

have

to

never

earlywalk.

than

more

tame, how

with

sympathize

life would

! how

recurring meals
can't

lent

summer

thing

monotonous

their

met

of my

full reward

thought

the

as

cotemporaneons.

as

and

have

may

this

fast
pretty good appetitefor break-

part motive

; the

to

got up

now

For

have

exploits,they

well

as

word.

royal

of their

slavery,
pitiless

to

country,

laudable

modern
eulogists,
I had

and

expense

for other

as

INVESTIGATION.

FOR

FIELD

and

In every
where

exposed

the

for sale.

leather,famous

322

envied
minds

ambitious

more

Jose, I found,

peace

the

lion among

was

majos

been, like him, soldiers in

had

whom
in

larger spheres,and

of

they

than

MAN.

LIKE

MASTER,

LIKE

and

war,

robbers
"

guides, smugglers, horse-jockeys

every

"

"

thing by

and

turns,

Not

nothing long."

of

; many

the most

utable
rep-

but not the least

crowd, I thought, to fall among,
picturesqueor interesting. Besides, I said to myself,
if I

only wished

is

did

why
"

gentleman,"

The

thing

Paris, and another

in

With
have

the

not

and
and

more

deal

more

from

Spain

of

color

of
Old

behooved

me

"

For
to

my

of my

"

and

to

They
or

kind,
man-

originalin thought,

than

Honda,

at

I learned
I should

great

have

majo,

complexion
did

nor

en

in character.

act

and

my

deficiencies
the

pay

to assist at

muchachas

pretension.

done

Sidonia.

to

hair

my

important parts
funcion

bound

Andalusia,

Castile.

Jose

from

here

was

myself
the

of

of books

in conduct.

of Medina

the Duke

Besides

either

consequently, more

independent
of

his want

knowledge

same

are,

"

classes,it is widely different.

lower

the

from

where

every

lady" ? I was
good society."

cosmopolitan. He is not one

is recat St. Petersburg, but
ognizable

is

gentleman

true

man

every

"

not

gentlemen,

where

woman

every

novelties,and

of

in search

now

and

and

ladies

America,

in

remain

not

with

associate

to

role

"

to

be

not

gestive
sug-

smack

Spanish
in these

conversant

sidered
con-

It is true

were

stricter attention

and

of

respects it
to

the

with

more

every

fandangos
agreeable to
cultivate las corridas
diligently
"

to be

the
de

Fearing my shortcomings otherwise, therefore,

addressed
myself studiouslyto these duties.

toros.

The
went

which

was
bull-fight

previously
it

waa

to

with

take

to

off about

come

Jose

place.

to

visit the

It is situated

; and

building

in

noon

on

the Ala-

LOVE

plants,and
view

Ronda

one

in

mountain

la, octavo,

instead
is the
A

who

could

of

do

not

visit

has
better

Ronda.

to

For
the

past and

and

where

serve

of

contemplation, a
face ?

virtue

by

soul.

Depend

vicious

the

nor

he

and

unmoved

I would

test

it, he

upon

virtuous

heart

and

towers

and

surrounded

(tajo)of
of the

living for?
than

crested

ture's
na-

be
so

looks

irreclaimably

pure

with

source

"

languid

eye

nature's

upon

It

by

laughed,to

had

been

the

foray
sidered
previouslycon-

it was,

as

citadel

scorn

three

absent

while

whose

on

upon

lofty

triplewalls

beleaguering host

"

sides

by a frightfulchasm
perpendicular depth,"
through which a branch

Guadiaro

war

burst

and

though
and

rospection.
grateful retimages of

capacity for
his
produce upon

not

can

who

Christians.

rock,

of

man's

scenes

impregnable. Perched,
isolated

retina

souvenir
a

alcalde, " El Zegri,"was

against the

save

hoard

chef cfceuvres.
besieged by Ferdinand, in 1485,

was

its valiant

for
a

the

worth

innocent

more

impression such

wholly

Ronda

future,

the

inspirespleasure from

who

picturesque

for

in life

is not.

means

upon

"

find,for the indulgence of thoughtful

one

varied

the

accumulate

after

ever

is there

what

hopes

can

he

might

nounced
pro-

the latter

Ronda

his available

use

is but

have

sure,

for

which, impressed

would

memory,

be
while

passion

than

Here

strikingviews

his

real

There

the

eighth wonder

to

power,

depth.

is called

should

the

though,

of human

production

man

Spaniards
"

tiful
beau-

of immense

the world.

maraviglia

of the Escurial

other

panorama,

or

this the

and

roses

ravine

Ronda,

and

"

with

overlooks

This, includingthe

323

NATURE.

is decorated

raeda, which

grandest

OF

with

El

on

flowed

and

roared.

fierce violence

its defenders

over

But

the

its devoted

storm

of

head

age,
fought with ferocious courZegri, apprised of its danger, rushed to

324

SIEGE

combating

its rescue,

little avail

the

of the

walls

down,

and
and

the
kinds
the

defended

which

heavy

ordinance

city, and

the

city stood

shook

of

balls

iron,

once

set

fire,were

on

Their

houses

looked
the

streets

women,

reached

were

between

the

the

Moors

"

great
every

balls

of

the horror

was

where

tow

of the

fly for refuge.

blaze, or shattered
by the
perilous from the falling

encountered.

fieryfurnace

likewise

demolished

to

bounding balls,which

the

like

be

Great

artillery.

gunpowder, which, when

extinguished,and which

not

in

thing they

every

to

knew

were

; the

ruins, and

not

they

ordnance

oil,and

which

ordnance"

also

at

of all

on

of the

but

"

threw

They

bards
Lom-

leveled

rock

their

"

times

In

masses

missiles

very

from

stones

in flames.

the houses

inhabitants

thunder

of

battered

now

molds, which

thing they struck.

steeped in pitch,and

great

and

with

in

cast

were

The

of the

chronicler

been

besiegers.

and

streets.

merely

had

plundered.

stones

the

of its faith.

enemy

and

bated
una-

obliged to

suburbs, were

other

into the

says

the

but

was

of the

taken

fired not

it

bulwarks

suburbs

hurled

"They

the

the

of

walls

Ferdinand,
to

numbers

days, three towers,

of four

space

of

strength of their
againstthe batteries

fancied

The

unequal

surrender

its gates and

open

with

host

the

energy

RO"*DA.

OF

dashed

At

; the

thunders

the

night

cries

city
wailings of

and

of

pieces

to

the

ordnance,

the

Thus

opposite mountains,
them
answered
by yells of fury and despair."
the eloquent author of the
Conquest of Grenada,"

who

throws

who

to

even

"

history a

over

describes
Ronda
with

the

on

;
one

siege how

that

has

combatants,

of the

cross

"

and

of the

some

on

place

either
whence

incidents

under

our

compared

eyes

side, professed the

the

victor

goes

mance,
ro-

siege of

of the

in all its horrors

tame

taken

coloring of

gorgeous

in

"

where

religion
state

to

FBONT

the

There

was

Castile

were

nor

age-at-arms

at

in the

to

when

no

suffered

knighthood

without

one

to

the

enter

lovelier dames

olden

of

times

blood

lists.

No

the

than

The

the

Spanish

de toros, in which

Infanta

the ferocious
fearful to look

at than

those

times

have

o'er

;" and

the

modern

; risk

money

expend

may

I took

their

my

seat

candlla, in the

arena

ber
remem-

Charles

gland
of En-

illustrated

were

of

smiles

by

gallantcavaliers,mounted

of

that

But

flocked

If I

song.

of the herd

monarchs

nament,
tour-

the victor's

nostrils,and

proud-spiritedhorses, encountered, with

they

to

sions
occa-

of this

anticipatednuptials of

rightly,the

but

these

as

dust

of the minstrel's

theme

with

of their

breath

his

gentle pass-

on

And

Spain.

in

prouder

realms
other
gallant cavaliers from
with
contest
Spanish knights the

the

corrida

gentle

graced

de la Zouche

Ashby

equallythe

prowess

is

of His

the

Spain'sdark-eyed daughters.
was

thousands

of

tens

useless

funcions de toros, or
performed by the haughty chivalry

when

"

wa"

hither

time

combats,

veins

and

for the

creatures

bull

Him

thank

to

of thousands

slaughter

of

of his Maker

temple

325

SEAT.

toreros

lives for

"

the

few

on

rest,
more

man.

age

contend
a

far

contest

with

man

changed

in

lance

of

chivalry
for

not

fame,

pesetas, which

in debauch.
this occasion

on

circle nearest

the

with

Jose

the

among

bull,from

whom

we

The
only separated by a lobby a few feet wide.
barrier
of the lists,
too
however, was
high and strong
to be easilyovercome.
The
fore,
lobby, as I have said bewere

surrounds

the

four
folding-doors,

lists and

the

of benches.
the

amphitheater, and is pierced by

in number, communicating with the

different
One

apartments

of these

beneath

apartments

expression,the tiring-room of

the

is,if I

galleries
may

the chief actor

use

in the

32C

drama

bloody
hence
the

he

tat."

But, unlike

of the

the bull

awaits

his neck

upon
I do

not

fiercer
had

The

breed, and

more

before

met

fate

at

the

generally

On

than

more

one

his

; but

fearless

same

and

hide

bull,whose

One

black

into

head

of

consequence

of

was

neck

the

about

and

shoulders, rather

bound

their
and

that

horses

of

rushed

nearly to

the

rage.

He

fixes

He

at

In

eye

one

horses, and

two

picadors,and

every

at

the

to

the

with

circuit
the

thrusts

with

heart

sound.

and,

savage

select

around

his horn

gies
ener-

the

with

tail
trils
nos-

upon

eye

foe ; and

no

matador, than,

the
a

He

lists,
lashing his

nearest

of

I had

cool

writhing tail,he

leg

short

arena

to

mouth

the

pauses

upon

breaks

two

the

fiery,glared with

bounding, roaring, and

him.

of the

middle

hardly

his

terror

trembled

foamed
and

distended
crowd.

carried

picadors
the

entered

He

utmost.

roar

all of Cuchares'

tasked

and

witnessed,

to

upon

his

ing
rusty brown, deepen-

clumsily built,deep-chested,with
more
pluck than
sharp horns, showed

and

before

sooner

tenance
coun-

confidence

lightlythan

the

sion
occa-

escapes.

many

with

any

perhaps, displayed

jeopardy

cause

of

were

pasture than

Cuchares,

the

of this

currents

this occasion

on

bon
rib-

death.

in Seville

one

ferocity.

once

bloody

full of the

exhibited

always
"

the

in imminent

his life was

in himself

populace, an inexorable
is he called,and the red

bulls

and

of his moral

more

by

detail the

to

all.

te salu-

saved

descriptionof

for

answers

Moriturus

foretells his inevitable

propose

The

fight.

Muerto

is

gladiator,he

gladiator,sometimes

the

indulgent whim

"

be killed ;

to

outlet for him

Roman

Latin,

understood

say, if he

only

the

Like

death.

of

got ready

is

bull

whose
lists,

the

enters

gate

the

here

might

an

TRAGEDIAN.

lists he

dashes
gores

third ; dismounts

through

the

arm

of

FRONT

crowd

of the

taunts

; while

incites him

; and

horsemen

completely

cloaks

him

drew

twice

chulos

others

two

and

that barrier

with

the incessant

that

Cuchares

He

cleared

the

with

various

weakened

so

dared

There

The

manner.

all his

equal

firm but

to

modest

He

"

and

Toledan
near

to

half the

leaped

seemed

deportment,
bull with

returned

the

underneath

its folds

distance

cloaks

The

before

paused

chulos
the

all the

bull

as

he

the

and

perate
desit.

quire
re-

to

and

bow

threw

"

to

had

await

while
stood

the
away

his

rogance.
arcouraging
en-

his

sharp

right,drew

in his
he

expected

without

hand, and

when

them,

between

had

Corregidor with

smile

blade

He

chulos,

undertake

received

in his left

bull.

fatigued

so

determined

was

circuit

vast

come
be-

think,would

composure
a

had

of the

to

to

he

and

with
the

he

who

not

his banner

the

before

one

with

onset.

their

twice

yet hesitatingin his

approached

applause of

himself

feared

and
self-possession,

license to kill the

hat

but

him,

He

of the

air of

the

occasion, he

it.

three

lists against him.

nothing reckless,nor

was

one

wounds, and
the

fatally
picador

or

driven

lobby

enter

to

with

task before

killed

harassing attacks

and

forward

came

; had

their

animal, and

wounded

slightly;

barrier

the

over

had

only
bull,by

threw

the

had

He

to

and

infuriated

of

eyes

quarter.
;

puts rider

chulos, who

the

over

weary
courage

horse,

of the

the

horses

sixteen

and
seriously,

horns

of

another

to

\vounded

be

the

advance

fearless

the

from

death

and

newly-mounted

and

his

"

dors
pica-

and

vex

the

horse

under

The

undaunted

upon

gores

fallen

had

One

flight.
escaped

again he

jeers

him.

chulos
His

attacks

renewed

to

the

bay

at

the

upon

cloaks.

their crimson

with

But

them

urge

get fresh horses

him

all his enemies

banderillos.

and

picadors, chulos

327

VACATED.

he holds

awhile

For

another.

SEATS

advanced
his

were

sary's
adver-

casting

gazing, with

"ONE

328

dilatingeyes,

his

upon

his ferocious

excite

this

By

rage.

MORE."

STRUGGLE

opponent, and

new

instincts to
he

means

displayof

induced

was

seekingto
precipitate

reach

to

the

spot

all his

energies,calmly
animal
rushed
The
him.
awaited
madly againstthe
of the
banner
side,
matador, who, springing to one
him
full impetus against its yieldingfolds
allowed
astonishingthe animal,apparently,with the slightness
of the opposed obstacle.
This
he repeated a
ruse
number
of times, till the bull, becoming more
and
more
exasperated his previous wounds
disgorging
where

matador, summoning

the

"

"

blood
the

and

where
againstlife,
the

and

benches

in

pater-noster
"

all eyes

the

pointed directlyover

his left

hand,

the

blade

the

banner

while

above.

the

with
The

before

as

of the

arm

his
bull

rise upon

his breath

holds

makes

of

gives away

; his

matador, whose

applause,amid

head

contest

not

was

yet ended.

in

rush ;
neath
be-

passes

at the very

remains

there

amphitheater
of

waving

trampling of benches ; and

trumpets swells the triumph of Cuchares
the

his

directs

fearful

sword

and

But

held

now

piercesdeep into his back, and

transfixed,to the very hilt. The whole
shout

protrude

righthe pointsand
now

and

"

of the animal

head

moment

gives one

to

seen

Cuchares

the

the

repeat

women

blade
glittering

banner

life

equally poised,
passionshang on

galleries. The

the

of

game

They

majo

more

so

Their

folds of the banner.

the

beyond

seem

and

more

This

combatants.

the

lost

"

blows.

crowd.

the boldest

watch

while

chances

the

admiring

crisis of

this

his

direct

to

power

excites

all the

strength

the

chiefs
handker-

clangor

of

!
The

though
bull, al-

struggled yet for vengeance.

and life pouring out in
transfixed,

mortally wounded,
With
a

fearful

matador.

head

stream

of gore,

But, blind

he

with

yet made
rage

and

onsets

upon

pain, and

the
with

330

FASHIONABLES

shouted
Jose

louder,he

toro

told

The

his death-wound.
to

wanted

his assent

bull,and cuttingoff

proprietorship.
Sixty horses were
bulls ; and
of

it

fiercer
seemed

made

of his

better

the

funcion^

that

alive with

all sorts

trate
pros-

it

crack

Cuchares

one

were

himself
for

merely

not

his

twelve

bulls

his money,

saves

while

his

most

loosely.
tajo

the

overhangs
of

and

toros, I took

de

the

and

the
The

and

amore,

funcion

Alameda,

caused

of his ears, indicated

fight;

professionsquander

After

Cu-

to

had

approached

summer.

It is said that he

stipend.

that

lungs.

obliged to yield
mob, and signified

of the

one

this

fight con

to

given

generally considered

circuit

and

bull

stroke

killed in this

was

Cuchares'

better

the

Cuchares

whereupon

had

corregidorwas

will
fiercely-expressed

the

have

lucky

and

bold

KONDA.

must

they

that

me

for the

""!
mres

OF

people

"

and

walk

on

chasm.

dresses

It

the
was

filthyJews,

big-breeched Moors, picturesque contrabandistas, redcapped Catalans,the gaudy majos, swaggering toreros,
officers from

the

nation,with

of

chas, mostly

of the

difficult of

course

contemplated this
a bench, I saw
upon
above

the

and

"

the
as

is

kiss while

moon

upon

the

as

in

rather

rather

too

of distant

awhile,as,

too

nounced
pro-

senoritas.

half-recumbent

our

wooed

the mossy

the

thing
colder

and

full

solitarystroll beyond

summer's
on

clear

rose

moon

took

different
to

of mucha-

being

fiestas

every

ever-moving pedestrians
pass

she rises full-orbed

accustomed

It is such

for

scene

of almost

number

Honda

presence

of the town.

atmosphere,
been

then

its

mountain-tops,I

the confines
when

vicinage.

justifythe

Europeans

indefinite

an

and

access,

to

in review

and

Rock,

in Andalusia,

moon

transparent

serene

from
and

Endymion,

what
duller
and

mountain-side

we

have

climate.

gently stole
he urged in

his tired hunt

dreams

Precipices towered
Rocks

fierce.

were

had

here

the

Titans

the

heavens, while

fearful

above

piled upon

rocks

between

and

me

horrors
"

The

sweet

anticipatedthe departure of
day, and, like an impatient usurper
grasp the yet unrelinquished homage.
nightingale attended
nightingale,the frequent

her

the

of the

sultana

the

but

her

Here

of the

land

and

her

On

this occasion

improvise

delights in
whether

The

alternate

verses.

or

in

be

core," for either

but

rapt attention
How

upon

swelling
like

strain

these

deeper

as

the

the

nor

melodious

notes

of

of

of

country

the
This

Spain,

abiding-place.

have

delicate

listeningear
!

or

grew
a

force, and

in

discord
then

perhaps

not

then

seemed

for the

in

of

I could
shout

the

up

flattery
"

"

en-

concert

I listened

in

quickened pulsations.
eve

that

Beginning

sweet

low,

from

rapid

fuller

cadences

and
out
with-

greatest volume

through

and

soft and

interest,it reached
the

to

commencing

rapturous

broken

applauded

poet,

followed.

way

with

cry

descended

Roman

waiting as

one

same

more

theme

false note

of
to

choristers

"

quavers

of the

seeking
The

and
angelic invocation
rushing
to expressivemodulations, growing

an

and

the

was

It matters

and
sister,

her

would

quieterand

"

certain
un-

monarch

the

says the

in turn,

sang

hands,

clap my

not

in the

regent

favorite

muse,

: so

sung

expected applause due

to

lay the

her

concert.

think; for each

turn,

town

melody more
amorous,
outgushing of an overflowing heart.
had
three
met
together perhaps to

the

recited

in her

is her

is gayer,

voice

song

Moors

if

to scale

of Andalusia.

many

and

haste

inauguration ;

denizen

inhabits

rose

its rays.

confusedly as
the

had

sky"

moon

jagged

deepened

were

moon.

our

wan

me,

in tumultuous

sought

of the

rays

pale and

imminent

chasm, whose

which

with

compared

"

of the stage, so

paintedimage

is the

331

TERZETTO.

of

equally

332

EAFFLK.

and

happy
The

of the

breath

fed upon

the

ah1

that

grow

flowers

countless

penetrated the

loaded
with

senses

happier, oh

heart

which

As

alone

and

night

at

Rouda.

posada,insisted
got up by
gone

that
of

saw

have

hog-lottery. The
few

that

was
"

obliged to

; but

success

all my

and

sweets

the

sinless

way

ward
home-

stand
then

dances

the
to

For

tickets

to

one

have
Xeres

de

was

in any

nor

of

In

as

puerco,

hogs

not

words,

other

quite small, a

was

only apprehension I

tained
enter-

have

been

I should

success.

in

could

our

I have

blanks.

not

country

However, fortunatelyI
but

the

there

funcion de
why should

of

as

at

justifydescription.

price

what

; but

that

to

sorry

jaleo

before

bulls ?

treat"

him

not

the

as

the

celebrated

The

done
was

breed

upon

with

like

hog
unfortunate,
of

hogs

in

excellent,perhaps surpassed nowhere,

of the Spaniards why I know
favorite meat

is most

is the

"

noty unless

Moslem,
The

of

nothing

drew

Spain
and

own

my

was

well

and

only ;

pence

scenes,

encountered

dance

in

call it.
as

Ronda

at

may

funcion

retains

accompany

it done

seen

while
I

suppose

such

made

his,and

of the occasion

I attended

inhale

being

should

novel
nothing sufficiently
the incidents

in

was

couple

I had

than

such

that

Jose, whom

friend

for

"

better

I knew

fandango

many

here

all sides the

on
posada, I heard
the eternally-thrummed guitar, and

the

castanet

can

and

crags

view

can

prizethem

the

wild

perfume, and
intoxicatingdelight.

an

he

happy

can

I descended
toward

gay

how

had

day long

the air with

who
Happy, thought I, the man
who
hear such strains,
who
can
but

its earliest sound.

to

mountain, which

beauty, now

sweetest

returned

harmonious,

one

to

indicate

neither
selected

proper

of whom
for

this

abhorrence

touch

the

funcion

of Jew

unclean
was

and

animal.

black,

as

THE

believe

connoisseurs

The

"

would

then

would

and

twist

When

funcion

they

drew

the

was

butcher

prize,much
and
a

fine

so

greatest

funcion,
much

or
feelings,

where

occasionallygiven

is not

and

quarrelsgenerally end
two

fiestawas
The

or
more

very

returned

with

three

than

guitarand

favors

the

the

jeers

There
"

is

if not

ous
boister-

are

in their
kind

every

bound

to
too

action ; and

of

furnish

practical
of others'
blows

are

sudden

tion.
exaspera-

excited

by drink,

bloodshed.
at

Ronda

commonly
the

the

with

considerate

from

without

days

at

the

dom
king-

off with

majos

seldom

are

of

upon

occasions

of rather

proprietyin

As, however, they

The

the

the

of the

one

for fortune's

these

on

ets.
tick-

of

fate of the

salt, yet pregnant

majo

of nice

fied
Satis-

interest

the

tail,

powerful

hog, depended

jokes, sometimes

The

character.

of his

manager

always assemble
these hog-lotteries
is

of

men

purchase

performing

candidate

Ronda,

for

cause

These

and

glory, and
one

most

perhaps

"

liis disappointedrivals.

Attic

At

mirth.

him

sound.

and marched
by profession,
elated, though accompanied

the

as

forth

if the

as

of sal Andaluz

great deal

send

go

if

as

of the

that

grunt

sold, the

great

railleryof

coarse

sight. They

hold

life ; and

successful

The

result.

of
as

than

mere

lungs were

would

numbers,

spectators seemed
rather

at

catch

would

all

were

duties

solemn

most

he

look

him

and

"

if his

see

points,they

these

make

animal

to

"

on

good

was

it,tillthe

squeals perhaps

where

pen,

ribs at first slightly,

as

and

him,

scratch

try if his temper

to

fat

so

fellows,to provoke laughter ; they

their

do

sometimes

and

satisfied with

iinder the

him

probe

the

to

go

dead,

not

be

scrutinizingly nor

are, and

of locomotion.

would

state, though

in

lay

idea

333

PIG.

they always

purposes

preclude the

to

as

for such

PRIZE

quickly passed.
and
tended.
atattractive,

bolero,the funcion of bulls,

"A

FRUIT

show

of

334

of

and

hogs, the
left

both

vied

sexes

thing

any

to

gouged

and

each

other

disturb

the

with

occur

were

eyes

themselves

Old

carnival.

the

during

as

out

the various

to

all

young,
hi

enjoyment
classes,and

revelry.

Nor

did

general serenity.
bowie-knives

were

nor

titude,
mul-

Festivityabounded

All abandoned

where.

every

horses, and

moments.

vacant

no

PIECE."

No

used,

or

Colt's revolvers.
Ronda

is

great place for apples and

for almost
cialite for the two

of fruit ; but

kind

every

In the

former.

deed,
and, in-

pears,
it has

spe-

variety,profusion,and

flavor of its
nation

fruit,Spain is probably unsurpassed by any

the
Besides
Europe.
fig, orange, lemon,

of

and

pomegranate,

tropical fruits

climes, such
and
in

cheremoya

The

figs
"

luscious

fresh green

the

delicious ;

breakfast,and
of the

nice

hunt

prepared

"

of fruits

I found

palate for

and

for its

'at Ronda.

We

of the

and

latter

halloo

deep-mouthed
the

is

of

"

make

must

was

in

with

dangerous
great dexterity

Hercules

mountains,

baying

Cadmus,

and

they bay'd
never

skies,the fountains,every
mutual

these

of

cry."

the

once

boar

did I hear

gallant chiding; for,besides

one

wild-boars.

noisy accessories
glorioussymphony !

Such

all

too,

game

all the

Sparta :

member
re-

the

hounds

Seemed

of

With

The

of

to

appearance

had

hunter, the

of Crete

wood

larly
particu-

exciting and

an

the

hound, and

chase, needs

"When

the

hares, rabbits, bears, and

"

and
requires great courage
successful prosecution. Among

horn

here

unparalleled
eggs.

sport, and
the

flourish

"

delightfuloverture

the

trout

breakfasts

abundance

figs

formed

they

sweet

my

The

temperate

nana,
date, plantain,ba-

the

as

most

"

of

products

parts of the kingdom.

some

in

citron, the

the

region

groves,
near

TOO

these

among

the

335

LAST.

heard

still

which

would

impulse

that

hills,

after

long

TO

have

might

Hyppolita

sounds

GOOD

catch

and

continue

them

gave

ing
chid-

gallant

more

birth

had

ceased.
But

My

the
three

days
stay

chasm-girdled
of

old

when

of

nature

"

at

human

Ronda

the

walls

and

almost

dispossessed

as

by

limit

utmost

"

expired

is

enjoyment

turned

my

lingeringly
the

crafty

transitory.
of

back

as

my

mitted
per-

upon
the

Ferdinand.

Moors

its

CHAPTER

DEPARTURE

SHEEP

"

VINTAGE
FOR

MUCHACHAS

THE

"

ARRIVAL

"

AT

CRACKING

MALAGA

ITS

"

ALMONDS

PRODUCTS

ALAMEDA

"

"

START

"

GRENADA.

THE

morning
of

for

I took

well

was

was

Alpine

full

than

man

food

no

the

grander,

fasting,and
the

at

not

"

provende

looks

the

for

fume
per-

started

the

to

scenery

"

found

we

attend

thoughtful

so

stopped at

we

the

with

plants when

to

care

; for

opinion, to

scented

medicinal

and

setting out

my

fair,and

was

flowers-

Malaga;

before
in

ROBBER-CAVE

"

RAISINS

"

XXVIII.

first
the

even

it

posada

coarsest

bread.
There
"

are

fortunate

useful

the
used

circumstance

animal

whitening

of the

the

armed

of

of

some

introduced

with

the

hands

one

of them

and

caused

saw

the

carried
to

shepherd boys,

an

it

sh'ng

same

of Jews

away
bite the

two

dust

surrounded

flock

clung;

and

that

David

After

the

emigrated
shepherds,

were

Quixote,
flocks.
or

by

three

with

as

well

as

the

their

rest.

in

from

stone

of his

to

and

of offense

efficient weapon
of

more

grass-eating monarch,

Don

keepers

men

large

of Anak.

son

crowds

slings.

of these

that

which

to

than

is the

many

doubtless,

whom,
them

him

by

great

these

Goliath, found

the

top

Jerusalem

Nebuchadnezzar,
"

two.

artistically
against the

capture

Spain

for the former

"

mountain

shepherds
so

sheep, I believe,in Spain

more

teeth,
I

saw

grazing flock,

338

INSTITUTIONS.

"In

Leonarda.

I could

"

he,

says

In

brambles, which

and

and
threw

The

former

one

hidden

deep

if

was

of
were

sun

earth

of

ing
slop-

the

of

horses
with

this.

The

and

the

otherwise

"

marks

evident

were

you

lando's
Ro-

broken

of former

covered

bottles

apartments, while

the

of

indications
stabled

been

have

and
foot-prints,

their

who

robbers

had

been

not

highway,

in

the

another

former

cuisine.
indeed

there, and
other

had

vestigesof

latter

them

them:

the

we

their

of

rich
a

of the

relative to

two

troubled, more
these

indiscretion

in

.This

their

so

"

their

treat

the

the

about
a

to

poor,

full of riches

carrying

off

and
a

the

friends

or

they

come
be-

would

appear

terms

of

som.
ran-

for the

sum

justicia,as

the

least reliable institution

as

they
their

might

never

deed,
In-

descended

have

honors,
had

were
cause.

for their

but

corregidorof

who
worthy official,

the

money;

had

certain

frequently espoused
of the road

on

hiding-place,and

envoys

applying

while

and

indifferent

expensive and

cavaliers

their graves

clothes

preferredpaying

the most

was

of

told

arriero

till their relatives

and

villagesto

the

stopping people

to

justicia,that

in the
The

release

with

in confinement

ransomed

openly

this cavern,

content

taken

often

to

held

strippingthem

and

kept them

to

with

occupancy.

The

had

band

removed,

been
the

to

and

many

might

former

but

of

one

discerned

of the

acquainted

fac-simile

There

occupation. Empty

Horses

ing
dwell-

which

well

were

was

open

quarters.

there

nor

entrance

into

sides,"

supposed yourselfvisitingCaptain

have

bottom

they

trap-door had

cavern

would

the

path,

saw

two

tune

mean

concealed

as

all

on

trap-door covered

subterranean

themselves

it."

me,

the

around

house, cottage

neither

great wooden

up

looked

see

kind.

of any
raised

vain

been

one

of the

long

sus-

339

DISAPPOINTMENT.

of collusion

pected
of

every

this

the

seems

day

one

had

been
this

to

intrusted
effectual

corregidor

; but

amount

love, as well
lead

the

He

Here

and

the

galleys.

Gil

Bias, were

Their

fate

The
stones

the

of

who

was

Spain,

to

put
was

miles

some

his

the arriero

"

in

its

losing

In

routes

bered
Outnum-

discretion.

at

as

Two

and

in the

the

the

indicated

by

from

violent

Quien

to

days

The

with

up

of

original

first loss."
a

of

cross

the

It

cave.

I asked

death.

sabe ?" he

replied:

any

other

robbers, is losing part of its

country

I had

been

months

you

my

life ! had

never

fleeced

be

can

tradespeople.
forward

hopes

in the

pronounced dangerous, and

peril of

more

they unsuspiciously

course,

by landlords and unconscionable

Spain you have always looked
the highway.
in my
It was
on
here

evening

satisfied.

romance.

But

quietly

collections.

distant

"

while

cave

traitor,condemned

untimely and

killed him.

over

pass

remained

ihejusticiy.

to

traitor

passed

we

of the

confiscated

commemorated

and

their

effects,of

obliged

he

his self-

capitallypunished,

exception

were

owners

in

ringleaders were
the

the

in the

taken

rest, with

of the gang

one

they

by surpriseas
within, they surrendered

entered
of the

over

returned

usually fortunate

than

of

resorted

to

pocket, to

bought

till the robbers

ensconced

his

insult

party secretlyto

absent.

was

to

them, and

the

deeply

injuryto

well-armed

band

the

as

carried

getting satisfaction. The

disgorging the proper
upon

felt too

in silence.

the matter
to

he

of

means

released

was

within

suspected him
spoil with which

for

receiver

as

and

prise
sur-

had

robbers

of certain
unfair sequestration

an

the

to

while

of the town,

of the walls

It

cave.

robbers, was,

captured

one,

distance

short

with, the

even

to

when

But

rencontre

I landed.

country, and
had
been

never

in

over

been

in

requested to

340

SORELY

stop and

be

thought,

"

of

rest

and

is fast
the

to

feared, will be

foray was

of

of

Petit

una

cosa

the

will take

the

the fanciful
real

to

way

losses

by protectedimposition.
I was
glad to see the spiresof Malaga pierce
sky, for

with

in contact

come

and

hungered,"
From

the

shone

the

side
the

by

clothed

opposite to
of the

waves

of oranges,
the

upon

side

one

which

clear

thick

was

white

had

castle
an

upper

with

ascended

and

endeavoring to

the

hills with

me,

its Avails

It

while

the

in

save,

Groves

hung

in clusters

graceful cedar

mingled

with

the

hoary
bay

offing,sails,like

waters.

Moorish

hill

whence

the

city,communicating

1279

with

by

the

It is
the

defenses

old

having recaptured
one

of their best-fortified

the

most

all the

with

ress,
palatialfort-

Moors,

who

wrere

thought impregnable,

possession in Andalusia, the

and

and

Its sunny

towers.

in the

on

gently kissed

were

the

with

the

built

obstinate

it, Malaga

verdure,

pomegranates,

called Gibil Faro.

this their last

podrida.

yards,
vine-

or

"

an

by orchards, gardens, and

commanded

was

"

rounded
sur-

masts, while

keep,

upon

yet unbroken

and

once

down

I had

was

tranquil Mediterranean.

specks, crested

alia

atmosphere.

majesticpalm, penetrated and

battlements

Besides, I

the

was

citron,and

highway

where

savory

I looked

the

bruised

"

saddle.

for the

longed
in

molido

the

height

bright
on

and

tired

was

be

to

Highland

road, and

give

or

de Es-

is much

larceny

will

ambuscade

an

robbery

be

the

nice

surprise as

place of gallant exploitson

dangers

in

Spain,as

generation,it

next

Waverley.

to

in

fear

to

justicia."
ceasing to

much

as

chivalryis over,"

of

age

have

is la

Europe,
and

"

The

all you

nicer abduction
pana

"

rifled.

FATIGUED.

others.

strongholds,and

tians
Chris-

Malaga

was

underwent

sanguinary struggle

before

341

MALAGA.

and
capitulation,

this castle caused

From

the ramparts

rosin

upon

arrows

till two

then

till his followers

It
who

the

was

in vain

had

But

over

the

the

time

stones, darts, and

threatened

death

relieve

besieging force

only waited long enough

than
city,my body more
gratification.I
Malaga

baths, which

do

you

upon

find

not

"

in

El

throw

fusal.
re-

Zegri

when

Ronda,
the

not

of

case

under

so

Catholic

cfroeil

coup

fancy wanting

my
at

the

hotel,

good

"

to

put up"

is situated

Alameda, which
of

"

and

city

Hamet

redoubtable
to

surrender

to

consent

of the

same

the

pressed by
kings in person.

hurled

capture

undertaken

hard

boilingpitchand

its commander

after the

days

defenses.

down

they poured

would

besiegersmore

of the other

any

and
assailants,

the

nor

"

loss than

and

embarrassment

the

the

Fonda

Alameda,
and

at

de la

or

enade,
prom-

boasting good
the

generallyat

hotels in

Spain.
originof Malaga, like that of
authentic
No
coverable.
history

the

The

rise.

It is and

most

such, distinguishedmore

than

disinterested
and

devastated

it.

the

character

Under

in

The

turn

city;

prudent

with
at

new

ginians,
Phenicians,Cartha-

were

faithful

interest

least that

heroic

defense

consideration

on

as

ancient

either

court

to

occasion

entitles

Saguntum

or

it.

it to

Numantia

was

them.

historygave

long siege to capture

this

deserted

pledges of fidelity.Such

the

soldiers,and

and
tune
For-

to

prompted

Moors, however, Malaga made

a defense
and Isabella as
againstFerdinand
they captured. It cost the Catholic kings many
best

like

subdued, occupied

inhabitants

whenever

and

selfishness

False, fleeting,perjured, they

benefactors
alliances

new

for

its

commemorates

commercial

patriotism. The

Romans

alone.
their

was

ever

Nile, is undis-

ous
vigor-

as

city

any

of their

And
as

its

high
in

an-

342

BAISINS

AND

WINE.

Saragossa in modern
greatly exasperatedwith the

times.

cient, or

soul dead

to

El

of

after

with

kept

Malaga
doubtless,

its

to

sends

United

the

to

millions

The

distinct

Thirty-two

Those

defined.
wine

good

; and

the

because

grapes

than

expressed for

when

of it is

Pedro

to

the

mingled

Ximenes

wine, which
Generations

produce

into

converted

Much
look

so

have

of the

of the

Old

much

is
raisins,

wine

or

Duff

that your

Gordon

not

used

small

is

of

grateful
sweet

peradventure

our

obsolete.

become
it not

to

tion
por-

made

Malaga

Malaga,

not

"

which

and

the

is not

exclusivelya dry wine.

connoisseur with knowing-

almost

smacking lipextols

and

mixture

know

round

vineyards

tinctly
dis-

profitable

wine,

or

two

scarce,

is rather

sweet

it

various.

were

more

are

affected,has
who

and

and

Amontillado;
the

which

is very

wine

It

white

cipal
prin-

palate do
good wine are

Mountain,

arisen

Its

the

Muscat

and

lence
indo-

population

informed,

was

and
grandfathers,

our

grandmothers,

policy.

one

excellent

are

wine.

grape,

The

taste.

with

Its

that make

like the

his

Spanish

between

for raisins

dried

qualifyother wines,
the

those

faith should

wines, of

pleasant to

palate.The

agreeable to
the

alone

species,I

pretexts,

thousand.

sweet

grapes

teen
fif-

cities,mainly owing,

hundred

States

in money.

No

of the

less

raisins and

are

"

admixture.

foreign

nearly or quite one

exports

make

fraudulent

Andalusian

of the

any

condemned

principleof

the

It has

privations.

"

stores.

infidels,"was

flourishes.

than

reaches

hidden

and

gold

traordinary
ex-

hopeless slavery

to

under
having got possession,

of all their
be

inhabitants

of the

habitants,
its in-

generosity,he

and

imprisonedthe gallantcommander,
thousand

of

incredible

emotion

every

valor

was

Zegir, performed

endured

feats, and
With

obstinate

Hamet

under

who,

Ferdinand

and

as

Golden
Co.'s

tillado,
Sherry, Amon-

best, was

made

in

TO

INDUCEMENT

carried

Malaga,

round

343

MATRIMONY.

Cadiz, there

to

fied,
modi-

somewhat

And
it is just as good,
shipped to America.
it so ; its value, like that of a
if the purchaserbelieves
painting or piece of sculpture,being mostly dependent
the imagination and price. In Malaga these wines
upon
and

of which

more,

yrimas

the tears

"

the

tasted

largest wine
liked

giving
that he
the

accustomed

are

ripe.

selection

; and

the

darkest

full force

out

press

on, for

so
are

of the

ciouslysweet

and

sun's

the

other.

of the

beverage,
widow's

the

jar

about

grapes

the bunches
for

return

fourth

or

from
a

to

protractedhoneymoon.

third

cadeau

notifyinghim

place

spot where

that

another

time, till all

is

always

plants,on

is selected, in order

during the

each

pleasedto add,

was

they

gathered.

spread ;

separately on
on

two

or

as

qualityof the

marriage

week

color

the heat

deli

vineyard, free

be

can

He

when
a

cask

August, choosing only

a

in the

which

"

epithalamium,and

usuallygathering

picking

grapes

the

friend.

It is

of

make

In

the

extraordinaryfacultyin

the miraculous

of

middle

worth

of any

commence

the

of

"

send

to

occasion.

if a cask had

They

they

full maturity.

one

"

Malaga

"

to

remembered,

so

oil,might

in

an

sweetness

nuptialfeast

opportune
of

and

be

Kreisler's

Guinda

that it had

me

was

I should

and

force

because

presume,

raisin growers

La-

cumstance
Cherry from the cirbeing dipped into it,
cherry-treebranch
a peculiarand
pleasantflavor. Mr. Kreis-

gives it

ler informed

is called Las

best

Mr.

at

Muscatel

sweet

discovering its

on

grape

It is called
of

and

called,I

wine

and

much.

which

so

"

The

butt.

dearest

the

dropped by

are

the

fiftydollars

about

cost

the

which

served
re-

the

soil is of

to its keeping the

ing
during the day, and retainare
night. The bunches
spread
allowed
to
ground, and never

rays

In

dry.
generallysufficiently

about

fortnightthey

are

344

COMMODITIES

There

OF

three distinct kinds

are

which

the

are

and
finest,

of raisins

First,the

always packed

are

catel,
Mus-

in boxes

ing,
pounds, or half and quarter boxes, containtwenty-five
the half and quarter of that quantity.
respectively,

of

Secondly,

Sun

preciselyin
different

Bloom

or

the

grape

same
a

"

the

country, Uva

and

also

separated

raisins,which

long

very

These

the

stalk.

called from

They
and

being dipped in
packed in casks,or

are

inferior

much

are

grapes

find

you

hung

the peasantry, and

other

Among
Curagoa,

and

Jordan

why,

hard

"

nut

exports

shellingthe almonds.
placingit on a
small

I don't

almonds.

spectacleunmoved.

harder

than

the

the

unfeelinganvil

the

shells of the

pay

for the

rials
"

about

which
many

Malaga
it is

kind

called

they

are

employed

are

each

almond

in

ately,
separ-

can

must

be

crack

they

nut

itself.

who

The

look

such

immeasurably
hard

nay,

"

confectioners

for their

on

as

purchase

which
fires,

almost

shelling.The girlsreceive five

the day for their labor ;
cents
twenty-five

expense

of

"

is not,
of

man

His heart

almonds

of

strikingit with a
dred
gratefulsight" one huntiny hands cracking the

very

the

hardest

cottages of

because

break

their

envy

late

anvil,and

small

pretty girls,with

The

two.

are

muchachas

They
a

frails,

colgaderas.

latter

not, unless

It is

iron rod.

wood-ashes.

oil,figs,orange-peel for

are

The

crack.

ins
rais-

quality,and
Lexias, so

in the

called

The

I know

other

boxes,

called

mats

grass

thence

almonds.

to

in festoons

up

are

inferior

an

in

called bunch

Thirdly,The
of
lye (lexia)

the

to

packed

are

from

is called in

which

"

being

generally of

are

from

grape

former

the

"

prepared

are

Muscatel, but

the

as

way

larya.

in casks

/ the latter

MALAGA.

however,

the

sole

them, though

the

most

can

much

not

be
more

maintained

of

means

honest.
on

expensive

five

support

to

Chastity in
rials per day:

virtue ;

and

many

346

NATIONAL

A.

Franca,

INSTITUTION.

royaltyitself.

or

self-respect
; for

the

He

enjoys it too,
abates

beggar

not

with

iota of his

an

equal haughtiness, even

of the assembled
city.

while

solicitingalms

Birth

gives

which

not

the

circumstances

triumph
Spanish

could

be

only of
off with

achieve

the

As

The
the

to

and, with

the

encomium

Yet,
though

With

on

theaters, and
but

mitted
adinstitution,

fan,mantilla,and

the

seen

born,

manor
an

many

all their

temic,

do

muy

any

one

can

elegant

wonderful

they

this

could

Spanish

tempting
at-

art, in
not

complish
ac-

tion.
inven-

not

mean

to

halayuenas,
with
in

the

step, reveals

Andalusienne

Malaga

that

say

very

the

in motion

who

could
Xo
the

studiouslyconcealed

las

Malaguenas,

bewitching as they

senoritas

form, in feature,in

in the

the

lagging behind.

satellite to Dolores.
of

of

An

harmony.

will compare

and

than

distinguished failure by

equal poetry

of

leaves

ness

nowhere

the

soul

to

graceful carriage of

secret

as

"

be
fan,its mastery, like poetry, must
with
defies art.
one
: it comes
by nature, and
rapid,yet graceful action of the arm, in adjusting
mantilla
or
coquetting the fan, is an- inspiration,

born

saw

the

"

those

accompanies dress, or
the

and

Al-

persons

And

national

raise

mantilla.

the

on

generallyprevailed;

I have

success.

woman

all that

but

none

before,

advantage

balls

modes

national

the

basquina, which
French

At

being exclusivelya

paseo,

carry

inside out.

it to better

see

Parisian

bull-fights
too,

than

dailylife of

the

sees

Malaga.

of

Alameda

illustrates

remarked

daguerreotyped
one

did

have

may

relation turned

in Andalusia

the

as

It is there

face

equality

an

; he

overcome

in

his accidents.

over

better

domestic

the

man

manners,

not

ameda.
the

of

can

him

much

as

; in

many

of

Seville,
or

shine

otherwise

matchless

are,

that
than

exquisite-

virtues of manner,

consciousness

of power,

Sevillian

the

natural

You

might

full-grownwoman,
afflicted

by experience,I might
After

siesta,and

Mediterranean
from

marble

floated

they

glowing bloom,
smiles,

and

the

made

the

How

would

me

I then

stranger in

melancholy
beauty

beauty

"

invisible forever
all

yet,
we

tantalizingas
I have

which

seen,

"

"

felt

ring of
!

our

conscious
un-

pressed
sup-

and

guishing
lan-

tertulia,and

laughter.

! there

of
in

is

few

moments,

heart, and

has

lates
annihi-

part of sight,

that

thing
some-

unexpected

haunts

evanescent

and

us,

originin

no

future;vague

after such

one's

gathered

merry

Alas

becomes

present that

man

with

fortune, that found

our

malady

desire,and

sadder

damasked

climate

encounters

moves

promises lightto

past, nor

the

before,and

unseen

recall

not

can

the

fruition

of

never

faces

ful
grace-

kindling with

hard

my

! which

hope,

the

strange land
in

on

these

circle,Avhere, on

with

bewail

I sat

have

trees, they improvised

vicinagevocal

the inhabitants

lipstremulous

eyes

comparabl
in-

from

dangerous coloringto

less

breeze

watched

hour,
a

approached

seats, under

the

often

their

many

pronounced

past, their

the

atmosphere, gave
or

have

and

their

desires,while

thoughts :

saw

coaxingly persuaded

Alameda,

art

Malaga, whom,

when

houses, how

of the

seat

the

had

their

figures as
with

of

improvisea

to

I
Still,

her.

is

mimetic

no

well attempt

as

Alaiueda

the

lovelygirl upon

the

her, which

equal

as

There

unapproachable.

aristocracyabout

reach.

can

walks

beauty

347

MALAGUEftAS.

LAS

as

as

our

dream,

thought!

vision.

Bare-headed
matches
for
of

with lighted
boys go about the Alameda
for your
cigars,not disinterestedly
philanthropic,
in return
cuartos
riers
carthey expect some
; and

water,

neighboring
\vhich

you

equally expectant

botillerias

will pay

for if

hand

round

partaken ;

; while

majos

sherbets
and

and

from

ices,

pretty girlsoffer

348

and

oranges

you

Here, indeed,
of
and

The

ladies

You

in

and

their

and

springy light step

delicious

these

and

brilliant
the

skies,and

in the

There

Cathedral

of red
the

white

of

relief

and

as

fountains,

of my

some

had

much

object

an

only

tune
at-

pleasant-

the

edifice

floor
The

saints, in

wood,

sculpture.

for the

taste

of

admiration,

of

The

architectural
with

is inlaid

with

choir, which

squares

stalls

in the

saw

in

stands
and

many
in

bas

few

and

has

delicately carved

And

in

see

large naves

church, contains

the

to

architecture.

into three

marble.

of

middle

figures

the

; and

columns

and

bal

reunions

flowers, and

are

"

is

These

dance.

never

It is divided

distinction.

Alameda

the

sculpture, painting,or

is indeed

grouped

It

scarcely

see

you
of

whether

toilette du

great deal for the stranger

of curiosities.

arts, and

promenade

of Andalusia.

is not

Malaga

devoirs.

subduing atmosphere,

soul

sympathy,

to

senses

all your

the

on

walks, where

reminiscences

est

than

mality,
for-

coterie, you

one

for the

becoming

gracefuland fascinatingas
on

From

in costume

the

acquaintances,

your

perform

turns

dressed

are

all

dit.

on

refuse.

can't

you

pleasure,without

meet

latest

the

less recherche

no

all the

have

you

another, and

to

which

pomegranates

visits.

gather

go

"

CATHEDRAL.

THE

choir

good pictures.
The

cathedral

the
a

monks

other

The

and

the

once

old

domicile

Christian

Plaza

de Toros

Moors

having

and

temples
purposes

before

as

"

inosque.

former

the

Santiago was

mosque,

improved, architecturally,
by
down
to
torn
was
grand mosque

The

the

of

been

not

for

Church

one

of

habitations
kind
the

monks

make

been
have

once

being

; and

had
a

been

convent

put down,
been

for

room

church

was

of bulls

its conversion.

their

devoted

to

exhibited

in

another

kind

in

DOCK-YAK!)

the Moors

the

holy places of

and

the bulls of the pope.

The

Moorish
if

big
"

only

atarazana,
to

old

times

horse-shoe

arch

those

the town,

dock-yard, is worth

or

see, from

what

they got

up

remains

these

of

It is

in

marble
within

now

of the

tune

visit-

it,how

things.

intact.

since the

sea,

bulls of the pasture,

; the

still remains

the

as

349

ASHORE.

Moors,

has

greatly receded.
is famous

Malaga
or

baked

or

crack

for its terra-cotta

bull-fightrepresented

horses, and
matador

each

class of

chulos

or

done

note

rather

seem

This

for

edifice not

to

the

the floor of the

are

for its

altar is

Ferdinand
when

red

ensign

church

of

swer
an-

Bradwardine."

of La

Victoria

ing,
visit-

where

the

Ferdinand.
this

day,
the

on

city surrendered
Moor.

an

"

worth

suspended, at

of the

namental
or-

; and

Underneath

family vault of the noble

is a large quadrangular ment,
apartniches
the
walled-up, where

is the
It

with

mortality.

or

silver,
might

actuallyplanted
the

they

also made

are

occupies the spot

delivered
up to King

high

have

useful

beauty, but

deposited. The walls

representingskeletons
of

high,

more

it

Villalcazar.

surrounded
dead

the

than

with

the Convent

near

Homenage

left,the

family of

or

Besides, historical

Bear

Blessed

city were
which

del

foot

Drinking-cups

art.

because

right of

banner

Torre

costumed.

remarkable

of the

the

the

and

"the

found

perhaps,
To

figures,a

animal, picador

playthingsof boys

the

clay is

keys

human

material, which, chased

well

terra-cotta, bulls,

in this

objects of
of this

in

clay, and persons who

represented to the life. However,

are

of

the

the

"

admirably executed,
been

"

clay,which is very ductile,and don't burst

in the baking. I have
all the combatants
seen

of the

events

burned

images

The

are

covered
and

top of the

other
vault

with

co-work,
stuc-

fatal evidences
is

black,

350

PARALLEL.

and

heads

death's

marble

dispensation,the
eternityfrom,
enlivened
the

dead, instead

terrible

of

into

that

since

that

"

being oppressed

festive

the

death

with

the

tian
Chris-

approach

we

residence

be

decorate

which

by

emblems

would

gloom,

sculptured

think

passage

joyous

crossed
surround

to

temporary

our

with

this

would

One

bones

two

fancy

strange

"

terrors

new

with

here

could

be

the mansions

of

with

of

images

with

crowned

flowers

associations,and

"

gladdened

with

symbols of victory. But

grinning skeletons,
moldering bones, and other ghastly vestiges of mortality,
wrhere
are
brought into requisitionto
every
render

the idea

Of
of

there

course

course,

followed

houses

is

from

of matadors

to

he went.

He

very

popular

the Edwin
with
was

tragedian,but

about

the

not

of such

and

fears

look.

public opinion

he takes

good

his audience

good

The

actor

as

antagonist.

his

exemplar,

with
for to

the
him

he

intent

same

also

applause

But, generally,he
At

the

looking

first

round

the

was

bore

bull-fightI

upon

catch

to

the

"

attended

be
his

the

was

all

"

flected
re-

that, like
part

"

and

groundings ;"
of

breath

himself

upon

Cuchares

It may

occasionallyoverdid

; and

well

gestures, mien, bearing, walk

the true* spiritof his role.

in

artist

of the buskin
as

saw

"

tauromachian

he

ai--

Gladiator

his hits shall tell

his

upon

; his

much

as

that

care

as

genuine

the

same

first time

in the

manner

Forrest

majos,

him

of Forrest

He

the

The

me

had

crowded

drawing

was

He
bull-fights.

reminded

and,

Malaga.

it at

star

tistically
developed proportions.
he

Malaga

at

bull-fight.Cuchares

and
circuit,

the American

as

Toros

de

the

Ronda

and

"

critics of

height

Plaza

his annual

wherever

proper

horrible.

most

attended

me

making

was

of death

his

trils.
nos-

naturally.
at
Malaga, while

spectators during

an

interlude,

THE

I noticed

unfamiliar

not

its

determine

thought,
of the

apostolicfriend
to

witness

no

of their

boast

his most
be

would

answering
of

that

be

withstand

known,

is

of the

world, I turned

the

induce

him
that

me

laity,should

temptation.
seeking

whom

He

who

he

may

particularlyanxious
It is for them

his

its sunset
the

to the

So, after

innocent

most

him

give

to

away

them

gave

hue.

to

that

victoryover

of this kind

recognition with

his

little

"

convinced

clergy.

thought

some

could

the unbeneficed

clerical friend

of my

cheek

"

cunning traps are set, as

his greatest triumph.

It may

bow

part

which

lion

bouche

bonne

immediately

recognized my
English Church, who had told

roaring

devour, it is well
make

his

on

than

to
ability

like

about

after

consideration

no

more

I did not

But

bull-fight
again ;

clergymen,

goes

that

Seville

at

me

351

face.

proprietor.

embarrassed,

CASINO.

air

time

for

recovery.
But

clergy of

the

Church

the

authorizes

personal observation
hypocrites. They seek
my

virtues
in any

men

country

impose

to

do

nor

of

I believe

England, as far as
to speak, are
me
no

upon

there

no

is

by

ulated
sim-

order

of

one
an

universallydistinguishedfor

more

and
enlightened piety, unaffected
charity.
manners,
They may not equal the Catholic priesthood in zeal or
self-denial ; but
life they

to

pass

otherwise
at

by

the

unoccupied

casino

"

"

club

nowhere

of America

would

information
indeed

decency

in

in Andalusia

in

Malaga

into

which

I could

where

generally
intelligent
gentleman, from
much

and

of

nowhere.

friends

some

latest newspapers
where

personal deportment

excelled

are

Hours

in

as

meet

well

as

some

whose

regard

find

Europe

Spain.

Spaniardsof

such

the

; and

and

courteous

conversation
to

duced
intro-

was

always
of

wont

was

ered
gath-

I found

general

352

"COKDUROY."

SPANISH

Most

facile

and

knowledge

in

as

Europe

over

and

States

United

in the

been

traveled

had

of them

conversation

profitedby their travels.

local prejudices without
any

patriotism. Such
and

character

rendezvous

to

have

become

would

place
and

beauty

the

through

in less

time

rashlypersuaded into
that

its

road

in the

as

time

roads

I presume,

now

nicelybroken

; but

of its

aga
in Mal-

up

promised

serious

of

King

Wamba.
It

one

stream,

one

time

estimating with
feelingsrequired no

stuck

began to think
intended, like
by.

bridged

never

required fourteen

we

the

him

mules

with

middle

mayoral

Horace's

I asked

only

in the

The
"

Moors

horses

it

; it is

by night,we

of

then

ribs

me.

of the

traveled

we

Bridges, indeed,

and

was

doubtless, good

time

to

rocky ravines, and

gullies,

As

streams,

stillin my

caused

was,

into

It is

diligence,and

stones

; in the

were

It

our

and

rustic,to
if he

eyes

such

since the
not

are

to haul

its

tion
confirmaforded

We
picturesquesusceptibilities.

three

flowed

panionship
com-

agreeable qualities

sufficiently
passable for

our

or

Espana.

tolerable

painsare

and

ruts

opportunity

character

the

The

pleasantincidents.
no

of mine

Pleasant

many

of the Romans

was,

had

the week

wish

any

springs.

than

it.

joltingover

all Roman

other

; and

mail-coach, for Grenada.

or

correo,

lumbering vehicle,without

go

aga.
Mal-

the limit of my

the time.

any

gave

place itself.

of the
I took

make
the

it enhanced

afforded

leave, could I have

to

month, without

of

sojourn at

my

quered
con-

diminution

day which I had assigned as

glided unconsciously into a week

would

had

They

The

visit

had

some

this casino

as

determination

city.

parts of America

other

all had

and

this

cosas
us

two

days
de

through

great difficulty.At
of the
his

river, and I

subsidiaryforces
till the

wait

expected

to

river

get through.

354

HEROISM.

ENGLISH

of the

Garonne;
chanting

the

vintage

broad

the

man,
guttural tones of the Gerdoughty krieyerlied,or extolling
of the
Rhine; the wild romance

some

of the

Spaniard, reciting the achievements

feudal

some

island."
Earl

of

whose

hero

Moorish

The

Englishmen

Rivers, one

for the

of the

had

times
been

he

carried

attempt
islanders
the Earl

witnessed

of

IV.,

the

of the

wars

there

seemed
Rivers

English archers and

kings in their pious

infidels.

him,

where

there

the

at

tumultuous

Christian

Moor

The

At

this

siege

the

of

sight,and

his soul

was

warfare.

mingle

in the

of his

cavalry, the
infantry,and where

of

alightedfrom

drums

and

the

fused
con-

the

king was

the

ing
send-

permission

fightaccording to the
request being granted he

to

His
he

by

trumpets, and

field,he entreated

affray,and

his steed

him

stirred within

the

country.

looked

of

career

reports of arquebuses. Seeing that

to

He

he

intermingled in deadly gle.

strugthe English knight mantled
at

war-cries,clangor of
reinforcements

the first time

was

chance-medleyfight before
rush

were

blood

high

This

the wild

was

irregularand
and

"

of Moorish

scene

interest

manner

Edward

resumption, Lord

siege.

recent

eager

to

the

by

and
displayed their wonted
bull-dogferocity,
of Rivers gained more
credit than English commanders

with

the

As

Catholic

the

extirpate the

to

at

had

assist

to

men-at-arms

of his distant

suspended, and
body

the

accomplished personage

England.

Spain

to

over

outlaw

an

little hope of their immediate

and

; and

wars

nobilityof
;

Cid,

commanded

new

while

the

Englishman, treating

were

was

and

for

the

redoubtable

or

wife's brother

Roses

of the

passage

melancholy ditty of

and

long
of

famous

many

of

was

merely

armed

en

bianco,

that is to say, with morion, back-piece,

and breastplate
;
his sword
was
girded by his side,and in his hand he
wielded

powerful battle-ax.

He

was

followed

by

LOSS

body

of his yeomen,

band

of archers

his

'

country.

to

my

he, ' the eyes of strangers

foreign land, fighting for
of

honor

battle-ax

cried

his

over

he ; and

into

their way

in the

to

in

Leon, and
face

by

of the

They

made

soon

; but

enemy

English

the battle

to

fightthey made

of the

; while

forest

when

gaged
en-

shout

no

or

into

of his two

men
battle-axes,like wood-

archers, pressing into the

plied their
side."

every

for the

the

the

front teeth

bows

Lord

vigorously,

Rivers

suburbs, though

distinction.

from

stone

the

made,
on

their

of Castile's warlike

others

him

with

way

penetrate

with

down

his

England!'

of this old

rushed

the

waved

for

George

hearts.

midst

and

God;

earl

inspiringsound

hottest

opening they had

and spread death
first to

'St.

courageous

cutting their

and

The

in

are

; you

of

glory

all,'said

men

you

of

manner

They pressed steadilyforward, dealing their

the Moors,
the right and
left,hewing down

outcries.
blows

head:

the

upon

the

his followers

and

manly

are

addressed

the

to

merry

England.'

the

to

and

he

war-cry,
with

old

merry

by a
tough English

his troops and

bluntly,according
Remember,

and

mannei',

of the

made

bows

355

UP.

in like

eavl turned

brieflyand

them

armed

with

The

yew-tree.

MADE

SOON

He

the

was

Ponce

de

ed
chivalrycontendstruck

was

battlements, and

in the

deprived

was

loss,however, of but ary

temporimportance, because, not long afterward, our friend
III. took

Richard

"

off the

head

which

of

Irving's

had

contained

them.
I

had

procured

copy

Grenada," and

"

while

waiting at Loja

of

were

we

Tales

animals, I turned

have

made

read

of

and

upon

the

of the

to

his

Alhambra,"

very

at

for breakfast

Conquest of
Malaga ; and
and

siege of Loja, from

preceding extracts.
gallantexploitsin language
the

"

It is

change
which

something

that becomes

spot they illustrate. You

I
to

them,
feel

"TRY

356

in

personalinterest
in the

actor

an

It

results,as

too

that

Gonzalvo

deeds

whose

capitan,

the

de

of

envy

like

Ferdinand, who,

Cordova,

has

romance

exaggerate, sought for awhile

to

fancy yourself

you

scene.

Lqja

at

was

LOTION."

PHALON'S

scarcelybeen

retirement

other

el Gran
able

from

the

could
spirits,

mean

pense.
forgive the services he was
unwilling to recomPosterity,more
just than kings,lias awarded

never

Gonzalvo
the

with

of the

heart

the

and

homage

; and

honors

merited

Cid

the

lie divides

country he served

and

aggrandized.
One

great feature

I had

of natural

of Andalusia

seen

trees, it is true, but

tall

pines or
hills ;

no

of the

is trees.

groves

climate

have

may

told, it

was

condition
have

these

out

partially
produced
is mainly owing to

the

its

of

heat

ravines

of

sources

beauty
the

handsome

earth

natural

former

speak

whether
covered

not

of

now

of the

Andalusia, or
with

with

is like

trees

the features

decoration,seems

shelter

and

earth

The
no

easily

inhabitants

trees

humidity, looks

man

dice
preju-

of the neglected

ren
bar-

temper

burned

and

attesting
of artistic
human

hairless

otherwise, the

unsurmounted

to

exposed

to

dried-up streams
fertility.In matter

the face of

as

tution,
desti-

the

and

earth without

the

however

me.

sun,

invite

or

this

uncultivated

so

around

powerful

dryness

as

appearance

of the

of

brow

this route, I could

on

"

scorching rays,

the

soil

trees

upon

the

depredators

sapless,empty

look

the intention

thing looked

every
to

of the
it was

supposed

starve

majesticoaks, lofty

clumps decorating the

The
shading the fountains.

who
population,
birds. From
pilfering

the

of

what

to

scattered

are

no

of the
to

There

forests

no

cedars;

but, I

beauty wanting

face

with

of

their

vapid, arid, inconsequent.

loftier mountains
of Spain
"

other

which
forests,

parts.

They

furnish

wood

are

for

ly
most-

char-

WAYSIDE

coal, the

Leaving

Loja

two

in

They

contained

but

fire-placewas
the

different

mouthful
be

hogs,

in the

middle

denizens

of

his

of the

who

Every

kinds

and

Spain always
wine,

opportunity

is.

of

things

of

which

ventas,

bed.

have

we

accident

the

from

spread
Nevada.

out

or

like

agitated

hill
a

no

deep

we

green

of

carpet

the
at

lunch,
bread

some

to

taste

not

to

the

in
very

had

an

have

countered
en-

by hunger,

it is situated

descried

party

our

and

funnel

or

people

as

in

or

absence

reached

we

gorge

to

of

need.

present

incident

to

eat,

wranted

endure

to

of which

bottom

rising

when

expected

white,

glad

was

It is easier

Cacia, through
at

not

arrival, bringing

or

desired

who

it

around

Some

aguardiente

was

The

was

those

very

stable

would

our

Loja,

bread,

regret.

hog

on

which

at

those

to

search

of

There

which

such

Without

of

loaves

in

cake, of

and

fast.

to

or

served

and

There
a

one

jowl."

indeed,

or

come

breakfasted

not

partook

him,

had

of

by

room,

hardly

given

modation.
accom-

which

pigsty

cheek

was,

with

and

room,

collected.

one

neighborhood

had

poor

had

at

appearance

"

as

associations,

stopping

one

well

has

nature

natural

of the

thing7that

any

provisions

certain

all

as

Spain.

bed-room,

and

procured.

bring

and

wretched

mules

of

Lachar,

to

kitchen, eating-room,
men,

country,

portion

its historic

to

the

nothing

most

ventas,

as

is

some

onward

proceeded

we

"

in

unattainable

man,

in

used
there

Indeed,

timber.

ship

fuel

principal

357

INNS.

the

Vega
feet

the
of

the

of
of

ain,
mount-

thence

and

village

Grenada,
the

SieiTa

XXIX.

CHAPTER

THE

VEGA

GBENADA

OF

GRANDSON

OF

MY

"

THE

ARRIVAL

ALHAMBBA

VISIT

"

THE

"

ALHAMBRA

THE

TO

INFLUENCE

"

IEVINO

OF

UPON

METO"

"EL
ITS

PKESE.NT

CONDITION.

WHAT

superb prospect opened

gloriousVega of Grenada,
a

that

was

been
!

eye

of every

theme

the

dotted

"

with

over

with

the

fig,almond

and

and

verdure

of the

orange,

and

hardy

sky

"

What

and

Sierra

All

Florian, of Chateaubriand,

and

our

before

faiths !

Here

me.

equal chivalry,and
Moslem

in

arms.

in civil

blood.

the

was

Moslem

Here

less than

my

and

rivaled

to

objects so
peak,

and

the

cuts

Here

that

mosphere,
at-

lovely

northern

distant.

of

ideas

I recollected

of

displayed

other

Moslem

of the

in

their

drenched

Here

gallant Abencerage

soil with
"

no

with

contended
the

two

courtesy

and
strife,
the

the

greater Irving,rose

Christian

too

start

pinnacle

throngs

battle-ground

each

the

lemon,

transparent

associations, what

upon

itations,
hab-

slopes bore

to

Nevada

up

the
seemed

in

above

mind

rushing

came

scattered

defined,yet mysteriously

well
of

crowds

charms

peak

of every

med
carpet beneath, hem-

glowing

new

While

pinnacle,th"
clear

all

"

lent

themselves.

above

luxuriant

the

olive

which
in

which

pomegranate,

have

sparkling lakes;

by gently swelling hills,whose

in

vine

villagesand

gay

Here

beauties

wonder

rivulets

from

spontaneously

whose

the

"

sight!

our

with

laughing
covered

tongue

on

ternal
fra-

unsus-

hastening doom

piciousof

his

steed ; and

here

the

359

AVENUE.

NOBLE

pranced his Arabian

Zegri,distrustingthe

"

treacherous

all else of

Spain, and

Alhambra

; and

final fareweU

classic

fancy of
which

the

in

daring,grand

of natural

The

fatigueand

up

these

of the

by

the

whence

as

wide

as

de

bordered

with

trees

I had
three

left

journey
vehicle

Malaga

over

of

Xenil

General
the

"

Sebas-

French,

and

we

walks

flowers,and
edifices.

flecting
De-

immediately

side of which

stood

it the Fonda

when

twenty

some

"

for my

in the

seven

broken

than

at

day

fasting
stimulated

the

the

"Leon

I put up.

next

p. M.

called

they

of

almost

right angles with

"?ro,"where

boast.

either side with

on

right,we reached
noble-looking
plaza, upon one
de

presents

Angustias, a grand

las

the

at

in

journey disappeared

emotions

occupied by

decorated
itself,

theater,and

is noble

place can

margined outwardly by lofty,well-built

to

historian,

"

bridge,built by

was

spacious street

fertilized

fancy

banks

the

Carrera

the

had

the

of the

the

defend.

five miles unconscious

plain some
the carriage,
entering Grenada
on

stone

Grenada

passed along
and

the

paseo

crossinga

tiani while

and

scenes

joltingof

delicious

other

no

desagremens

I traversed

and

"

interest

in

lessness
reck-

hill had

all that

rich

his

every

and

with

execution, and

took

capacityto

where

the

over

much

so

legend,which

associated

features

with

little

dramatist

poet, the

while

"

shown

ground,

pass its

every

float

Unlucky,

he had
so

recovered

had
to

soon

Boabdil, the

acquiring,and

its story, and

and

were

kingdom

treading on

was

the

here

of

in

which

Here

brother.

sought to entrap his unwary

open field,
Ferdinand
displayedthe banners which

we

evening, and

arrived

at

it

Grenada

was
"

and

dusty road in a convulsive

hours'
duration, mostly performed

breakfast

satisfied my

Loja had rather

appetite.My first thought,
at

360

CREATURE

therefore,on
and

inner

man,

recently been

nor

are

in

extra

fondas

make

commanded

even

my

The

is

bath

and

and,

moon

after

had

I made

cado, and

cafe con

of the

where

the

night

upon

my

appetitefor

for

started

Xenil, I

the

coffee.

the

monarch

the

"

former

houses

by

bazaar

of the

father

Here

and

the

and

buildingsof

the

Moors

entire

"

one

combats

natural
un-

still remain

of bulls

"

as

Alcaceria
of

row

Spanish windows, being untouched

Here
the jezeed,or cast
formerly was

performed,

in-

often

Boabdil, sought in

blood.

of the

so

great
story,

with

time.

lance

other's

and

the

Moorish

the

Hassan,

Then

Alhambra.

entered
in

famous

ations
expect-

tortillas y pes-

dxilgedtheir death-feuds, and

some

to

the

Zegris

them,

distinct

nor

the

left

couch, mingled

my

and

they

cluded
con-

Its turrets

leche,omelet, fish,and

strife each

tillafter

clear and

meal

hearty

Vivarambla,

Abul

dinner,

; but

Alhambra.

of the

Abencerages

Muley

and

monopoly,

chamber-window

with

square

de

Spain

in

tolerable

interfered

cigar de papel
Following the banks of

son,

Leon

Grenada

sought

every

dreams.

my

morning

breakfast.

with

in

pay

my

rose

the visions

neither
of the

of the

; the

commendable,

comfortable

from

view

portion

their histories with

But

They

almost

which
a

Spain,

large towns

You

them.

in
perquisitions

mid-summer

eye,

of

them.

otherwise

With

no

with

and

hotels, have

yet generally prevalent. The

night's repose.
under

of

of the

bath

fondas

and

street

found, like Candide, life very

to

the

to

in cities and

every

consequently dear.
I

luxury

latelyintroduced
charge for soap,

had

an

in

not

are

Oro

necessary

course

left them
; but

ordered

general institution

now

Moors

they

attached

procurableof

house

for which

Baths, that

but

rehabilitation

the

arrival,was

my

outer

dinner.

are

COMPORTS.

and

even

of the
here

VERMTLIOX

celebrated

are

now

On

Christi.
crowd

the

other

Xenil

the

their

from

emerged
I hastened

displayof

beneath

because

adas,
cluster

the

of mournful

V.

for introduction

palace,I thought. From

life into fairyland; I was
fountains,traversinga
mid
elms, or loitering

of the

towers

trees,

rose

rocky

the

Towers) greeted
have
the

groves

gain nothing in
dingy red color
nothing
and

go

center

detain

to

on"

"

walk

; that

probably
beauty from
and

to

leads
the

to

origin,like
fable ;

Caesar, so
with

as

with

trees

latter

these

"

Guarda

proper

the

left to

whose

to

equal justice. They

inspection.

near

y pasa

treatment

"

take

Their

public gardens of the

the palace itself,
which
interlinked

for them.

Passing along winding pathways,

always

the

have

some

unsymmetrical proportions

me.

is the

tufted

right,startingfrom
Vermejos (the Vermilion

Julius

Phenicians,and

tall

The

mid

high

sight. Their
Castle,rests on
to

lined with

the

on

Torres

ascribed

and

of marble.

seats

embosomed

"

Spanish

of flowers

pathway
upon

alms

passed common

midst

my

of Windsor
been

rounded

the

ing,
beseech-

and

into

entrance

in the

left,and

my

eminence

towers

the

Alhambra,

on

Under

recitative,bread

of ceremonies

fit masters

of

gateway,

long-bearded, long-cloakedbeggars,
kind

the

to

(granadas)

arch

stay.

de las Grari-

architecture,built by Charles

in

ing
Turn-

leads

Puerto,

and

my

Grecian
sat

Darro

Alhambra

chided

sculptured pomegranates
it. It is a heavy, massive

over

figs,

grapes,

steep hill which

up

stalls

this square,

leafyenvirons, and

forward

and

arrowy

of

towers

gate of the palace,called La

outer

The

Corpus

immediately beyond.

red

right,the

and

of booths

fruits.

arch

stone

joins the expectant

to

rich

tempting

of Pasos

all kinds

making

square,

through

rushes

days

363

WEBS.

the pageantry

market

melons, and

TO

branches

had

look
The

bra
Alham-

ferred.
pre-

bordered
excluded

3(34

the sun, I reached

of

arms

thus

retain their

of

fountain, sculptured with

The

above.

off in canals

work

from

reservoirs

Moors.

the Beira

the

"

ever

fresh

from

this

waters

unstinted.

and

spot, I faced

in front

tower,

of

Turning

two

place where

the alcalde
lower

the

justice to

always just,as
Nights."

be

can

their Eastern

of

seen

by

Arabs

The

"

and

cistern,

an

soldiers

were

It is called

the

Moors,

was

the

cheaper

kind

people
reference

"

to the

this

the
of

if not

summary

"

the

course.

brought

ian
Arabfrom

custom

it had

home, where

immemorial.

of

dispensed

class

of

Darro,

the

three

or

and smoking
sittingor reclining,
de Justicia, and, under
la Torre

"

abrupt angle
rudely-builtMoorish

square,

which

city

of the mouths

discharged into

are

Xenil

the

over

Xenil,

the

"

and

their sources,

near

Out

the

in the

tanks

of the Darro

originalelevation

of the

course

Moorish

the

waters

sculpturedriver-gods

the

MOOKS.

It is fed from

drawn

and

THE

stone

Spain.

mountains
are

OF

KEL1CS

the

Mordecai,

prevailed from time

Jew, sat at the king's

gate."
The

form

of the

of the

Moors.

which

it is

Over
consider

some

is the usual

entrance

as

the

"

Evil

Eye"

covered
which

that

key

French

the

Oriental

talisman

superstitionwhich

it is

sculptured,whose

was

say it has

wear

as

of

hand,

open

against

Moors

the

queathed
be-

the

like that of the

Some

others

an

arch

the latter
Spaniards,and from which
recovered.
our
days, by no means
Entering a
another
arch, upon
vestibule,I encountered
to

have, in

"

sculptured

emblematic

and
qualityof hospitality,

horse-shoe

hand,

in

occult

an

merely

has

court;

not

survived

the

religiouspurport,

badge
but

traveler,contends

indicatingthat

originalmeaning,

the Christian

of

honor, such

Laborde,
it had

could

the

as

architect.
and

others

lains
chamber-

distinguished

mystical meaning,
never
gain possession
a

of the
if so,

till the

Alhambra

When

found

with

luxuriant

considered

and

gardens;

; and

of

the

the

upon

Roma

va

at

been

poverty.
delicious

"Was

to be

most

ear, needs
more

most

with

guide"

lied
re-

tion
cultiva-

and
flattering
perfectcreation

has

"

I could

find

the door

Mateo

Ximenes

the

me

son

of

had

been

Irving'sMateo.

He

told

as

the

el nieto," the

son

of

he
He

He

would

show

me

turned
re-

calls

is

his father

days of Irving"Elhijo
the Alhambra," so he was

grandson.

she

She

as

called since the

"

asked

seat, and

Pepe.

that

mucha-

the way.

is
me

and

The

younger,

himself,though his baptismal name

"

the Alhambra.

take

to

me

Rome"

to

encountered,

to show

one

go

of entrance.

questionedtold
some

can

enter

great

Quien Ungua ha?

tongue

for I had

me,

Spanish proverb

thought

find

soon

with

"

hardly

to ?

the

entertain

first house

the

I should
whom

"

who

"

it I

with

would

huts,

nightingale,I

always the

not

of this last and

taken

not

reliance

where

invited

was

to

with

few

of

Moor.

I had

called

beheld

musical

less than

no

began

view

vocal

chain.
galley-slave's

the
I

eye,

soon

correct

cha

of

ever-

gardens

groves,

country, had

so-

eyes

with

least

instead

The

upon.

and

ceed
suc-

my

basins, with

our

first impressionsare

of the

feelingof

by persons above
ever-gushing water, no

entertainment

this the

in

clanking of

the

But

not

have

to

palaces,I

of

to

in ornament,

blooming

habitable,at
fountains

no

thought

marble

Instead

which,

tenements

heard

from

foliage,and

nightingales.

more

palaces,gorgeous

fountains

playing

saw

key

of this

walls

the

confess

must

disappointment.

dazzled

the

others, did

some

within

myself

fortress,I

world-famous
bitter

clasped

itself.
realizing

in

or

hand

outer

predictionthat, unlike

365

ALHAilBRA.

THE

hambra
de la Al-

called
over

the

366

EESERVOIES.

Alhambra

con

and

story connected

every
him

The

mucho

without

which

filled

are

cistern

there

these

honest.
"

la

Their

fuente !

drink

Darro, whence

mostly

"

resounds

fountain

the
drink

? will you

met

at

much

on

the

to

this
versation
con-

Asturia

vastly more

Andalusian

ahora

Que

parent,
cold,trans-

Gallicia and

through

me,

cisterns,

often

Andalusians, but

fresca !

from

lowed
fol-

cisterns,"

donkeys

carried

from

Quien bebe^ senores

just

the

water

I afterward

as

cry

! agua

Agua

water,

them

told

Moorish

old

water-carriers,and

courteous

so

the

retailed.

with
not

"

"

is transported on
sparkling,

and

city,and

the

of

Algibes

were

by

IncontinentlyI

it.

he
traversing,

were

de los

underneath

because

spot,

every

words.

we

square

open

knew

-for he

"

with

more

called la Plaza

was

"

gusto

cities.

mismo

de

viene

Fresh
quienbebe?
Gentlemen, will you
"

?"

plaza separates the palace from the Alcalzaba

once
a
proud castle, consistingof many
towers, and
defended
now
by walls,barbicans,and other outworks
This

"

"

prison

galley-slaves.To

for

It stands

come.

which

Alhambra

the

principaltower,
to

The

and

cityrises

above

to

the

thousand
eternal

with

intolerable
of

streams
"

Grenada.

thousand

sea,

snowy
heat

on

The

of the hill

top of its

pointed out

five hundred

the

of the

spurs
an

altitude

of

beneficent
summer

greater the

feet
ains,
mount-

teen
of thir-

covering

of

only tempers the

midsummer, but sends

range

water
fertilizing

rain,which, during the

it

Vega.

north-east,attain

This

verdure

Vela, Mateo

has

uses

the

feet,and, like the Alps, a

snow.

otherwise

from

and

de la

two

some

the level of the

which

down

the

base

highestelevation

covers,

la Torre

Grenada

me

the

upon

such

not

to

cover

the

Nile, supplying the

months, seldom

heat, the

more

earth

want

of

favors

profuse the

SANTA

stream

that while

so

and

the

skies

azure

occupies

Grenada

"

inhabiting the

the

slopes

Its

latter.

As

city rich

stood

we

unrolled

before

seventy

miles

in

of

name

population
from

its

half

open

granate
pome-

from

its musical

sound

many

attractions.

of

Sierra

whose

The

which

through
burst

de Elvira

Vega,
like

rose

itself belted

with

of

contest

deadly

Christian

the

the

upon

the view

sullen

the eye

attract

fortification

inner

an

in the

olden

tune,

the

Lope,
to

wont

the

Sierra

Grenada

and

scene

under

was

the far
of

was

"

left

orchards, each the

and

gardens

war

up

and

nearer,

line
out-

our

gorge

of

storm

by

calls

while

"

the mountainous

and

in

name

very

broke

of Jaen

Alhama,

well

walled

Valley.

Happy

Alpuj arras,

chains

semblance,
re-

loftytower, the Vega was

sparklingwith villas and villages;

throbbing associations,shut in the Vega on

the
on
right, the rocky defile of Moclin

jagged

the

is taken

circumference, and

in

the

hills and

two

this

like the

mountains

of

real, to

so

upon
us,

imbibes

earth

part of the

better

imagined or
(grandda),and
becomes

constant, the

parent
trans-

is fertile in crops.

the

interveningvalley

remains

atmosphere

are

moisture, and

abundant

36?

FE.

our

feet.
In
Santa

the

the

and

conflagrationof their
to convince
besiegingGrenada
to

and

proved
Isabella
to

having

their

of

the

endure

Spain

reliance

been

to

her

upon
a

overtaken

at the

took

Nine

place
that
of the

this undertaking,

with

It

success.

kingdom

the very

on

they performed

which

favorable

city of

the Moors

capture.

charged

were

with

zeal

finallygave
give

till its

"

camp

"

siege was

the

Isabella

the

cities
principal

was

I descried

Vega

Fe, built by Ferdinand

spot where
while

of the

center

audience
new

here

was

world:

bridge of

him

to

Finos

it

that
who

Columbus
"

which

368

ABSTRACTION.

made
distinctly

also

in that

as

the

to

Fe, Mateo
"

El

pointed out

Grenada:

beloved

far distant

Not
to

Boabdil

where

"

took

and

he shed

his last view

of my

admit

could

could

"

He

defend

lightin

is that

"

this tower

"

past ! These
grates my

and

become

warlike

foray,on

cloaked

and

cry

Cloacina
are

callingto
so

redolent

rich

will

"What

an

stood

on

us

return

whose

power

the

to

stract
ab-

to

the

chains

of the

agination,
im-

santons

see

from

; those

towers

in the

in

plaza are

Africa

visiting

gant
eleyonder tower, whose
arabesque reveal its origin,is not
"

and

Grenadina,

tending
"

but

and

the oratory whither

that sound

but
water-carrier,
prayer." Indeed,
of the

the

men

holy

brothers
and

of the

enables

the massy

to

silver-bearded

their Moslem

and

out

captive knights, subdued

their way

mendicants, but

holy men

"

while

present and

disappearunder

!"

man

from

beholden.

are

time

grace

the clankingof
galley-slaves,
ears,

arch

the

which

facultywhich

from

ourselves

the

they

like

objects,and things

possession,"I thought

inestimable

not

which

more

past throws, like

twilight,a softening influence over

in themselves
borrow
insignificant
subdued

with

his

pointed

The

the

upon

did wTell to weep

Mateo

repeating.

lovely and

less with

not

scenes

of

day

of the

sympathize

picturesque traditions

illustrated with
not

he

Santa

sigh

around

; nor

she told him

historic

other

Many

maketh

from

last

I looked

as

for what

woman

the

"

the occasion

when

gallantmother
like

on

sengers,
mes-

the hill called to this

me

glorieshe relinquishedforever,I
the tears

her

by

"

feeling which

suspiro del Moro

ultimo

Moor"

of

tower

carrying his project of discovery

was

of France.

court

the

bitterness

sick,he

the heart

from

out

the
every

voice

is not

these

the hoarse

of the

thing around

muezzin
you

is

gotten.
past, that the present is wholly for-

370

PALACE

rigatorsof

the

of the
miles

is

dAy

that

girlsof

that

all

than
at

is

palace of
bold," it

buscan

full of

are

is

is

been

ascribed

other, sustained

galleriesto
; but

have
As

the
of

that

contain

the

to

proper

is

Arabian
almost

obtain

proceeded

principalentrance
and

The

Berrugete.

grand
interior
the

above

one
galleries,

of delicate

Ionic

and

rations
deco-

outer

Plazas

patio, which

is

and

is

de
for

ble,
mar-

loros,

bull-fights the
"

It

court.

that

it

is

roofed
un-

to

seems

exposure.

palace is mostly without,

so

the

"

fair Portia's

unornameuted

door, admitted

low,

to

The

us

casket

that

promise

of the

leaden

through

entrance

coarse

gorgeousness.

plain outside

the

features,gives no

inimitable

and

story of Cain-

The

atmosphere

prize within.

this

the

repulsive exterior,like

contained

hemence
ve-

palace of the Alhambra

wholly within
placing Spanish and
violent
A
contrast.
rude, simple,
as

casa,

in

and

the

Emperor's

of this

caUed, is
taste

"

intended

nothing from

real

more

not

of the windows

is the

dry

so

beauty

la

Vela,

by thirty-twocolumns

been

suffered

la

circuitous

have

to

said

anniversary

might

Like

overlooking a largeDoric
like the arena
of the
circular,
said indeed

casion,
oc-

of muchachas

man

richness,and

of two

the

Mateo

that this

left half-finished.

ornaments

composed

de

V.

majestic. The

portalhave

posed
sup-

hoped.

Charles
was

be

on

girlswith

feria

fairs,a

the Torre

descended

the

of

kind

article he had

the very

So

tlie bell

it may

little rest.

the old

"

other

at

has

ones.

younger

the Alhambra

We

rang

ages

viejas; but, as

to

the bell

that

Loja,thirty

as

assemble

tnuchachas

sary
anniver-

strikes

good husband,

of

crowd

and

of

sure

who

maiden

every

iar

as

the

on

rung

is heard

surrender, and
As

V.

It is also

Vega.

distant.

this

on

CHARLES

OF

to

this

Arabian

the fear of the

scene

of

writers
Evil

plain,

Eye,

once

ute
attribas

if it

ORIENTAL

sought

were

be

to

371

ARCHITECTURE.

the

propitiated by

of

appearance

great humility.
entered

We
of

Myrtles,

with

them

of the

the
it

as

basin

the

in

with

Moorish

fishes,and
shrubs.
of

Moors,

the

his

the

in

palace

Mateo

told

saloons

de
the

and

entrance

and

build

to

entrance

one,

silver

aromatic

demolished

it,

near

could

used

be

the

larger.

yet called el

are

the

and

gold

cuarto

splendid apartments

of

Queen.

favorite

The

royal

once

were

ruptions
cor-

"

marble

grand

smaller

right,which

the

on

Sultana,

la

Bark"

This, too, disappeared with

by kings alone.
The

V.

the

was

former

the

its stead.

Alberca^

The

of flowers

Charles

which

"

Court

planted

la

word.

filled with

beds

right was

me,

the

patio, formerly surrounded

balustrade, is

margined by
On

Arabic

some

of the

center

of the

Barca,

de la

from

probably

Arraydnes,

los

generally styled de

more

Fish-pond, or

de

formerly called, when

was

HOAV

"

Patio

colonnaded

walks, the baths,

fountains, the

the

their
and
the starred
Oriental
roofs, attest
azitlejos,
of the patios are
but
origin,and the palm-likecolumns

the

of

copies

Allah

is

There

"

almost

Mateo,

of

other

from

the

procured

Koran, and

in these

into the

one

famous

galib

il"

God,"

are

found

in

With

forbidden

were

life,
they

other

ance
assist-

the

piece containing the

were

decoration, and
terse

"

an

entered

fac-simile

Court

"

of Lions.

the

compelled
selected

sentences,

arched

same

by

passage

to

texts

which,

flowers, they impressed upon,

and tiles.
azulejo pillars

passed through
de la Alberca, and

which, with

Le

azulejo.

Arabs

of

means

with

Patio

the

represent animal

to

seek

We

of

"

words,
but

conqueror

the

inscription. As
Koran

no

piece

every

The

Damascus.

or

from

terwoven
in-

dented
in-

the

magnificent pavilion

directlyopposite,leads
This

patio

or

court

372

is

FOUNTAIN"

OF

oblong, of
quadrilateral

by sixty. More

feet
white

than

LIONS,

hundred

one

and

hundred

one

twenty
of pure

columns

; sometimes
support the peristyle

marble

single,

grouped ; so small,
coupled,and sometimes
that they scarce
able
to
seem
so
delicate,so fragile,
support the superincumbentweight. The walls,within
sometimes

the

richlydecorated

are
peristyle,

and

mosaic,

arabesque,

inlaid with

flowers

floor is of white
but

backs
a

of

These

littlein

whose

other

with

common

their faces resemble

and

their

saw

heads

recollect

bite;

the

the

Arabs

flows

on

were

"

the

Seest

have

forests ;

Lybian

other

heraldic

ster,
mon-

this

Isle of Patmos

mouth

my

"

and

is

; and

of the

Out

on

which

ugly

limpid

I do

not

flow

wraters

forth

sti-ong comes

be inferred
that
perhaps it may
acquainted with Sampson's riddle
"

was

the

thou

one

half

basin,of

not

how

of it.
which

the

eyelids are

to

oppose

pregnant

with

above

current
; like

tears, and

is

sentence

from

the

its progress

There

one

water

surface,notwithstanding

strives
whose

of the

inscriptions,
among

saw

round
long inscription
thus

the

on

for,if I recollect,that

runs

of the

the mouths

counters
en-

whence

:"

sweetness

from

large as

as

contrary, fresh

it." And

it

rudely sculptured,and

Though

lower,

rier's,
Gallego water-carthe Apostle
incongruous monsters

we
"

these

on

through

too,

the

reservoir, where

sphynx's,or

in his Revelations

their

fallinginto

the masters

legs are

of those

one

by

stream, in the form

and

the

are

the

the

on

is itself surmounted

streams

animals

it is true,

rests

center

center

itself into

twelve
lions.

in the

sheaf,starts out,

finallyempties

broken,

originalpurity.

huge lions,and

basin,from

wheat

of its

fountain

of twelve

smaller

tences
appropriate senThe
cunning ornaments.

marble, somewhat

alabaster

azulejos,

stucco,

many

and

still retainingmuch

The

with

with

who

derneath
un-

lover
sup-

fear of

through

them

presses

else is this fountain

what

its abundant

out

like the hands

informer ?

an

but

beneficent

For

the lions

caliph,when

he rises in the

rewards
plentiful

truly

cloud,

suppliesover

of the

distribute

to

373

MEMORIALS.

BLOODY

ing
pour-

underneath,
his

among

ing
morn-

soldiers,

the lions of war."

Some
bra

of the most

overlook

this court.
well

as

is la

such

assured

me,

ories.
sad, yet tender memclanking of chains, Pepe positively

crowd

the

of

yet often

the

ness
still-

undoubtedly proceeded
like
spirits,
Abencerages, whose

from

the

were

me

revisited

plaintof

the

heard

their sad

spots
of

blood-marks

massacred.

Upon

the

fact,he handed

the

floor,which

marble

appeared

that the

color

If
at

found

that

blood

the

Holyrood,

of

and

blood

clean

The
is

"all

not

Hall

great

from

opposite the
from

two

Two

Hall

slabs of

brilliancy sister-like
"

Neptune's

his hand

of the

of the

the

ocean

inal
origthe

the awful

blood

Macbeth

not

low
bethe

still attests

that of Becket

Does

mark

scrape

proof,at least,

Rizzio

Abencerages

no

to

me

immediately

"

should

leave

of

disappeared,and

sacrilegeat Canterbury,why
that

told

knife,and

unstained

and

Boabdil
doubt

something independent

was

marble.
foul murder

white

whom

victims

surface,all discoloration

the

fountain, as the

expressing some

my

did, and

the

near

those

his

me

Hamlet's

glimpsesof the moon," to

tragedy. He pointed out

"the

discolored

some

genuine

whose

in

thus
father's,
renew

ciation,
asso-

tion,
decora-

around

night,which

murdered

had

exquisitein

Abencerages!

los
a

and

richest in historical

of the most

de

the Alham-

in

chambers

The

one

Groans

of

to

as

Sala

cluster

name

beautiful

of

tell

wash

could

the
us

the

?"
Sisters

"

las

dos

Jfermanas

"

ed
Abencerages. It is so callmarble, of equal size,purityand

of the

in appearance

"

which

are

let into

"A

374

the pavement.

There

walls, which
these

overlooked
behind

view

the

end
de

being

and

Lindajara, radiant

contains

this

whose

citrons

perfume

can

view

and

of flowers

such

without

peopling them

distinct

and

with

life !

and

roses

of the

Sultana,

the

music

softened

were

their

with

below.

Who

early associations

Shapes,voiceless yet

themselves

in

as

Agrippa's

touch, are

the

palpable to

not

of

tio
Pa-

alcove, which

gardens

recall

lovely,reveal

glass,and though

The

at

the

upon

boudoir

the

could

window

down

dreams

from
and

scenes

land

and
by tinkling rills,

whose

from

selves
subjectingthem-

the blossoms

the

was

hatt is

The

of the

are

fanciful

as

windows,

From

seen.

oranges.

lulled

was

fallingwaters,

the

and

window,

siesta

latticed

with

roofs

lace,and

I looked

of this apartment

of

real to

fancy.

At

the

Hall

of

entrance

of the

Embassadors

Presence-chamber

the

to

seems

whole

interior of the Tower

center

of the

opposite the
are

dome

entrance

decorated
of

dome

cedar

with

invisible from

its

height

the

with

rich

The

of

ours

It is
from

the

walls

moving
re-

the

square
floor to

Directly
The

walls

; and

stucco

ornaments

height.

tom
cus-

occupies

royal throne.
and

pers
slip-

Oriental

than

"

entered

seventy-fivefeet.

arabesque

is covered

This

chamber

the

the

introduced

of Comares.

is
was

where

reverence

Audience

; and

Embajadores

los

recesses,

the person

more

The

feet
thirty-seven

the

are

"

de

barefooted.

express

the hat.

Sala

la

placed, while

were

of

of the Moorish

walls

below, without

of

of the
"

dark-eyed daughters

risk

the

myrtles,

the

with

the entertainments

the

of the
Honiton

as

balconies

by

which

to

of

decorations

side

sleeping-rooms

as

privateapartments

delicate

as

"

the

each

on

of the morning-frost.
crystallizations

the

as

been

The

inimitable

alcoves

are

formerly used

were

having

monarchs.

HABITATION."

LOCAL

in
are

the

most
gold,al-

of im-

UNDEKGEOUND

thickness, as

mense

the

Darro,

and

its

of the

gipsies in

bazaars

and

distant

view

prisonsfor
rival
he

had

the

in

number

various

by

time

the

and

kings
for

insurrection, or

entirelylost,while
and

dread

Moors

city,or

as

the

"

Three

these

use

below.

the fortress

They

constructed

were

of escape,

in

some

upon

have

some

his

Princesses," teaches

been
bish,
rub-

charming
what

to

us

times
some-

were

passages

of

case

exist,partly filled with

underground

the

sally-portson

present day

others

that

which,

passages,

to

avenues

ered
low-

cause

led from

as

of her

depth

partly walled-up. Irving, in

story of the
proper

for Moslem

the

Xenil.

used

enmity

stealingquietlyaway
At

expedition.

secret

of the

parts of the

Moorish

the

it been

of

Ayeshah

the

of subterranean

of the Darro

banks

had

one

contiguous,

escape

precipitatedto

Pepe said,in
to

Better

to

commands

From

that

caves

streets, the

Albaycin, and

apartments

basket,

the

upon

outspread Vega.

the

upon

the

upon

of

recesses

down

criminals,it is said

state

look

hills,and
of the

of

been

I noticed

the

the

Zcraya.

the

tree-margined alameda,

of

Boabdil

from

seen

balconies

convents

windows

the

be

can

The

windows.

375

PASSAGES.

put.

Turning
dors, we

by

entered

Charles

I do

not

assert

to

as

from

rightfrom

the

to

through

V., the

Tocador,

below.

It

they
nearer

have

knew

whatever

is too

Religion and
they

her

witness
endured.

chaste, and
of their

custom,

Pepe

un

It is rather

to

to

and

her

charms
be

Sultana.
or

others

used

this

up-gazers
stinctive
in-

doubtless

chary

beauty

believed
vailed

ever

ladies

their

unmasked

Embassa-

of the

exposed

Moorish

delicacy,made
; if

Toilet

or

contrary, that the Sultanas

dressing-room.

persons

of the

heavy gallery,constructed

believe,however,
the

the Hall

to

no

the

of their
moon,

tell-tale

they would
supposed from

"

not

the

370

PRIJs'CELY

lovely scenes,

that

that this
"

of her

one

Pepe,
the

that

of

defended

de

baths.

of

disrobed, and

flowed

which

and

and

each

night ;

before

before
battle-field

"

in

Such

decaying
and

and

El

bano

The

Moors

sleep.The

ains,
mount-

by

drons
calthe

was

bathed

for

armor

to

always
for the

retirement

ly
elaborate-

the

perilous

themselves

prepare

Houris, promised

those

to

who

their faith !
of

fallen condition
of

of the

some

Beautiful
it

glory ?

ics
characteristas

is,what

now

When

gildings all were

when

in its

even

its

must

its countless

it

coloring,

fresh ; when

embellishments, its capitalsand

untouched;

del

waters

the

Beyond

us.

dispositionafter such
wrhere
corner
placed in one

palace.

days

the

with

inclination

the

to

outline

its tracery, and

all

into the suite

and
and particularly
siesta,

celebrated

upon

prefatory process

Rey,

previous to

of the

in its

been

carving and
were

and

meager

and

side opens

modernized

del

they put on their

if they sought
as

of this

have

the

to

from

us

natural

fightbattlingfor
is

the

purpose.

gallery is

meal,

for the embrace

died

bano

the

fervor.

the Moorish

to

one

been

the

gently invited

before

while

entrance-saloon,where

has

for

of repose,
A

wafted

noon-tide's

the other

on

tempered

Avere

exercises.

from

indeed, right royal.

through aqueducts from

arranged
chamber

on

learned

are,

into them

noticed

gratings,led

underwent

consist of El

Principe,

music

the

was

were

of Comares

which

court

There

baths

iron

Lindajara, and

shampooing,

The

by

of the Tower

I entered

bathers

them

in

nature

corner

perfumes
from the
reclining

were

the ante-room

the Patio

one

nade,
colon-

looking-

"

behold

might

In

moods.

mirador

Sultanas

the

through

passage,

baths.

as

the marble

perforatedwith holes, and

Sultanas

from

us

intended

was

gayest

slab of marble

to

open

whence

place

out

BATHS.

its

cornices

columns

of

CHAPTER

PEPE

FOXDA

"

HIS

"

SAN

DE

8TORY

FRANCISCO

TUB

"

GENERALIFFE

THE

"

XXXI.

OF

HILL
LA

"

ALIIAMBRA

THE

8ILLA

DEL

MORO

MATEO

"

AN

"

XIMEXE3
OF

EPITOME

ISH
SPAN-

HISTORY.

TRIFLES

word,

life.

whole

in Grenada

casual

in

weeks

entire

future.

I found

Oro
of the
the

same

in

that
the

landlord

cheat, and
bad

told

was

gente"

San

the

; the

the

San

As

Francisco
casa

they

were

de

"

he

the

in
de

walls
within

by

the

change

of

made

fortress

of the

robbed,

they pilferedand

of

repute."

or

my

Leon

house

from

particularlycautioned

within

was

Oro

house

were

seat

the

small

de

his

my

two

me

my

up

from

occupants

sleep there

to

diligence

chances

I gave

Francisco,

that

that

"

cured
se-

willing to oblige,

so

Pepe occupying

unsafe

was

Leon

had

has, perhaps, affected

baggage

my

de

days

But

Pepe, kept

that

me,

removed

of the

sabe

interest

Fonda

mala

it

and

arrival

the

precincts. Every attempt

the city to dissuade
me

lodgings.
"

which
with

"

three

Bayonne.

vid

companionable,

so

Alhambra

people

were

to

the

to

one

Quien

and

coupe,

to

Grenada,

him

able

so

Paris

coupe,

pulse,
im-

colors

but

of my

day

against

"

hundred

one

three

the

reach

to

remain

to

in the

seat

An

destiny.

act, sometimes

second

of

pivots

intended
the

encounter

about

and

had

paid for

Madrid,

the

indifferent

an

; and

and
for

often

are

persons

and

about

againstthe

me

was

reputation

"

all interested

liar

house
in my

and
of
re-

379

DECAY.

attention

maining below, I paid no

answering them with
assured

hundred

feet

long, and

than

and

I recollect

only ones

doubtless

hundred

walls, which

and

average

have

to

some

the

rise

towers

with

elms

"

Andalusia,and

in

seen

from

sent

were

The

other

country.

and

palace

fortress,

of the Bourbon

dynasty)

of Parma.
Under
queen, Elizabeth
the Alhambra
enjoyed a returning prosperity.

his beautiful

palace

repaired,and

court

abandoned

Alhambra,
of

palace

which

had

houses, besides

several

and

walls, immediately began

suffered

were

and

fall to

to

the

ceased

community

the

left,with
I

of the

dwindle.

to

and

The

play.

and

church

found

it
"

with

pacity
ca-

with

within
walls
doned,
abanlawless

all kinds

of

depredationsexcited
the

greater part of the

hamlet

mere

the

lined

streets

royal authority,when

sifted,the

was

demolished,
Thus

their

gathered there, till

attention

choice, and

ruin, the gardens were

fountains

place.

in itself the

populationof contrabandistas, thieves,and

rogues,

fountains

parochialchurch
to

new

consequence,

reached

almost

the

upon

of their

In

forever.

convent

shone

more

having

town,

gardens and

repented

the

; the

once

sovereigns soon

the

habitable,and

made

was

apartments erected

suite of

the

thousand

two

surrounded

are

royal occupants of
Philip Y. (thefirst king

The

its

I went.

and

seven

level.

last

their influence

But

dead

walls, and

the

above

which

were

The

Pepe

agree."

some

about

enemigo

thirtyfeet in height,and are six feet thick,follow

esque
picturdip of the ground, which gives them a more

high

The

is

Alhambra

Tu

"

never

danger,

no

the

appearance

the

be

their representations,

proverb

trade

its greatest width.

fiftyin
the

would

there

hill of

seven

some

"

me

The

of

officio Two

el de tu

es

the

to

of scattered

whole
houses

habitations

convent.
a

garrisonof

few

invalid

380

who
soldiers,

three

have

them
than

night

from

If

night.
with

the

outer

gateway,
did

and

Pepe

was

and

might

have

much

better

He

danced

the

and

mettle

in his

sang

that

guitar,and

at

the

Fonda

danced

to his music.

my

they

They

"

never

had

had

others.

vised.
ad-

the

gente"

reproach.
he

the fortnight

never

once

the

and

way,

to

drank
with

ladies.

young
"

follow

He

The

in the

servants

familiar

are

into my
wine

my

his

evening, and

servants
came

struck

obsequiously

as

rappel.

rooms

my

As

he

to

mala

equaled.

of the

cigars,and

or

fervently with life

talent for improvisation

room,

and

yet,

companionable kindness,
line of relative position.

transgressed the
to
much
too
self-respect

of it toward

"

in

In

them

fortress

from

never

bailes"

seemed

to

me

"

he

so

"

accomplished

most

sound

turned
re-

played the guitarwell, and

rarely seen

came

I treated

duced
in-

always respectful,

Spain,your
being disrespectful.
They

smoked

though

the

was

"

heels, and

of the

without

He

He

national

have

of

employment,

honest

than

armed

went

concealed

offense.

the words

soldiers

and

by day

acquisition.During

in my

of the way.

out

never

ums
medi-

when, later

revolver

reputationfree

him

believed

or

ravine, through which

barbican

of

cause

me

wooded

the

him

had

Colt's

invaluable

an

the walls

night, we

at

and

enjoy

not

I
gave

out

I with

from

them,

expeditions,whether

deep

passed

within

with

two

prescribed for admission,I

city. Pepe always accompanied

knife, and

and

such

Through

trances.
en-

hour

went

we

The
we

the

extra-mural

in these

hearts.

me

the

over

and
rigidity,

friendlyrelations
admit

to

watch

to

for mustaches

their

their

copitas open

but

guard

penchant

do

to

mount

will unbend

puro

I established

at

nothing

and
galley-slaves

They
cigars;

KESPECTFUL.

have

to

seem

chained

the

as

BUT

COOL

there

was

be

guiltyof

want

nothing vulgar

in

POOR

their

nor

manners,

much

guitar were

the

fortress ; and
of the

landlord

was

felt
"

got

the

supremely happy.
Give a Spaniard," says

little

and

bread, garlic,oil,and
and

cloak

guitar, and

day,

the

and
the

has

evening
the

morrow

less favored

with

! where

rather

and

toil

extreme

genialclimates
a

"

night of

winter,

brown

on

it

as

fiddle

selves
them-

and

guitar
for

tanets,
cas-

is

such
itself;

in countries

spontaneous

ductions
pro-

succeeds

day

are

burden

occur,

take

they

but

got through the

and

lassitude

; for

of

in her

old

different

if they
festivities,

relaxation

than

in

and

out

their life. How

philosophy of

The

some

roll

the

look

may

in

saw

of the Alhambra,

world

with

come

our

of them

sun

to dance
pleases." They are content
They have
through existence.

of

will."

garbanzos, an

let the

the

rooms,

as

one

the

of

flowers

the historian

in summer,

shade

"the

walls

my

were

With

gay.

of

son

reunions,

fittingbasquina, not

nice

to

with

notes

dancer, but

fellow
"

course.
inter-

bailes

The

more.

bolero

all of them

the

party

young

these

graced

pretty, and
a

invited

the

as

found

of

the

at"

; not

up

evening

danced

who

muchachas

assisted

"

handsome

as

and

night within

every

an

language, I

castanets

Alhambra

Andalusia, and

hair, and

the

I often

enjoyed

never

their

in this freedom

OccasionallyI

spectator.

them

of

heard

the

and

in

coarse

click

The

381

CONTENT.

of amusement

matter

children

AND

their

of

pleasures

sorrowfully.
Old

Tony

become

Weller
poor

tells Mr.

half-starved

and

reg'lardesperation and
of

such

believe
in

condition

in

"

"

they rush out and

Andalusia, as in Madeira,

get children
the

idle

urchins.

"

poor

In

when

rush

the

ple
peoout

in

experience

teaches

climes

southern

half-fed
half-clad,

that

they
oysters." My

eat

that

with

Pickwick

me

to

for I found
were

run
over-

Alhambra

382

FAMILY

letters,and

always under your

feet like puppies ; with a strange uniformity of resemblance,
if the parents "swopped
in
work," which
as
The
Ximenes
instances
they do.
family is no
many
exception to this fecundity. I doubt if Pepe could give
they

the

were

as

children
them

into

indeed

their

but

two, half

dozen

ricketychairs,and

He

told

ninas

the

"

Slys'
he

me

great cardinal

of his name,

the

with

Ximenes,

flitch of

bacon,

larder ; but

he

its

his

He

told

who
"

"

He

ought

He
of

his card

to

have

what

my
:

with

fowls

of

to me,

Avell

as

half

have

written

them

fortune"

probably

me

countrymen

in his

the

as

the

not

lord

of

should

be

garrulous,conceited
to Irving, as well as

great deal

time

to

to

"

from

recommend

with

come

in

his

book.

himself,and

and

he

seemed
"

him

visitingGrenada,

and

then
to

vain

as

go.

stories,

out

many

his

or

all his

Irving with
justice to them

done

asked

the
No

hung

should

why

furnished

he said ;

of

arms

it is all it has to boast.

pestered me
knowing the proper

of the

suspended against

And

He

made

queror."
Con-

intermarried.

was

azul

or

tout.

the

the

me

fattened

happy.

little

table,void

over

all his virtues

he had
not

he would

any

not

me

had

had

they

his father

owes

reputation.

presence

had

paralyticbed

showed

device

pride,when

He

man.

house

leave

quartering^emblazoned

of the sanyre

Pepe brought
old

and

?
Poverty perhaps
principalities

and

their

lineal descendant

and

which

was

it ;

came
a

joints,no

no

boast

pardoned

was

his armorial

and

"

mendicant
castles

the

families with

various

in

and

The

introduced

is over,

Pepe's

ninos

family,like

his

the wall

task

sisters,sons

Legion.

was

having

shift for themselves.

to

and

name

after

that

world

the

brothers

proper

think

to

seem

all his

their

daughters :

parents

as

of

nomenclature

and

But

thick

PK1DE.

lieve
be-

tion."
repeti-

guide
gave

me

to

IBVIXG'S

WASHINGTON

"

TO

MATfiO

"DOX
1

Guide

to the

VISITING

TRAVELERS,

celebrated

visitingGRENADA

the

curiosities

numerous

Being

all the

objects

pleasure

in

"

of the

promised

guide"

as

local

how

to

Fonda,

city abounds.

will

he

de

who

have

with

great

require

may

Minerva,

at any

or

States

all times

forces

and

would

be

He

was

beat

obtrusive

Cutting

whenever

which

events

of which

he

"Many
and

longer,I
down
at

used

to

night, or
my

am

leave

foot

Indeed, he
of

never

being

being

much

so.

tures,
adven-

in my

alone

Carlos,

now,

rooms

urged,

late
re-

great part

and

which

next

rather
I do

too
not

morning.
the

not

My

was

fond
care

in the

sometimes

quicker,and

when

the Alhambra

city,and
even

off his

following:

muchachas,

into the

and

and

knew

draw

to

witnessed, and

Don

ago,

than

the

had

like the

"

years
man

younger
wine

was

garrulity.

recitinghis personal

without

all

"

him

me

ettes
supplies cigar-

off the

retreat.

he found

he

has

if you

suspected himself

of

evening would,

an

tedious

company

caused

if he

fond

very

and

his

timely

good

as

who

son,

this

to

pleasant companion,

I found

"

his

without

I could

probably

there, except his

one

get rid of it.

wine

is

He

easily tolerate

and

warmer

I do.

and

is at

could

late

and

perfectlyacquainted

circulation

all the

knowledge

you

go

the

for all those

at the

Alhambra,

city.

give

any

Still Mateo

of

which

interest,and

them

found

is

to the

Excellency "Washington Irving, United

to

announcement,

his

to offer his services

at Madrid,"

Minister

"

of
to

be

of the

inns

Fortress,he

access

may

refers to His

He

He

guide

antiquitiesin

localities

procuring

his services.
other

and

XIMEXES,

as

and

of the

native

GRENADA"

"Washington Irving,begs

to Gentlemen

"

383

MENTOK.

of
for

evening,

return

blood

baile

or

till
was

venta

384

welcome

always

was

in those

by

the

days

frolics too

night, after

one

well

It

the

along,
in

"

hour.

wine

half the

and

excited

could

I both
wine

no

cowards.

as

if to

that

she

started

We

escape

in

those

it was,

shouted
us, and

seemed

to

days, was
should

we

him
to

told

pay

acted

no

the
her

saber

sale

her track

Dark
as

as

in

in

make
first,

at

todos

at

night'

her.

We

and

"

had
the

were

been

we

cause
be-

same,

something

girl,who
to

Don

daylight.

gate

have

we

feared

aguardiente makes

"

had

We

turned

stop ; and, finding

attention

it was,

gone

de noche

not

"

dressed

to

our

pursuit,screaming, hallooing,and

blaspheming.
follow

As

have

the

to

outer

but

"

in

somewhat

the

gray

ged
jog-

we

had

"

aguardiente

should

as

suited

not,

have

to

encountered

we

all

are

we

I have

as

We

matter

no

cats

"

and
we

resist.

he devil had

such

beber

could

determined

muchacha,

not

We

as

seemed

figure,all

perhaps,

or,

the top of the

is oat.'

met

we

age, but

or

perfectly sober
a

wit

us.

pardos

with

do entra

to

return

There

distance, perhaps,from

her features

Juan

'

is in the

white, coming toward

son

from

exactly

not

But

barbican,when

los gatos

and

copi-

moaned

atmosphere,

and

expression

the

wind

hooted.

owl

the

to

earthquake. We
sang,
amorous
ditties,perhaps

an

some

stillness of the

out

late hour
more

started

The

gateway,

in

precede

the

the

Carlos,

taken

midnight,

near

the

towers

stiflingsensation

coarse

was

had

we

carry,

fearfullydark.

Vermilion

known

who

by

Don

carousing till

below, and

could

we

passed through

to

longer. Well,

age

one

"

stood

sometimes

been

own

my
also

panion
com-

past, and

over

about

apicaro

was

no

had

we

intimate

most

person

and

stand

Alhambra.

when

He

of the ventas

than

the

was

My

'

one

tas

me.

well,

could

till he

bota

DARK.

THE

to

of Juan.

name

loved

at

IX

CATS

Carlos, we
did

not

words,
I

fear,
could

gain

on

386

THE

GEXERALIFFE.

Carlos, tillafter sunrise

I had
had

attempted

As

I recalled
determined

before

see

For

the fearful

Xot

without

entered

found
"

the

Juan

"

drunk,

No,

senor

His

again.

out

you
dead

limbs

and

stiff.

He

rigid,and

of terror,

yet the agony

if he

as

pater-noster

breathed

never

face

his

died

had

when

stone-dead!"

chancel
?"

left him.

horror

my

Mateo

were

recallingto

I had

many

mean,

of Juan.

"

in which

the

near

church

aguardiente,I

him

to

shuddering and
church.
Imagine

stretched

visit the

the

much
the

Dead

companionship

of the

become

from

recovered

pice
preci-

completely

adventure

had

what

the

over

to

great apprehension in regard

mind

that I had

now

felt

to

darkness, but

I had

as

soon

previous evening, and

going home,

the

fallen

doubtless

senses,

my

in

home

self
my-

the Darro.

precipicenear

return

stunned.

been

mastered

to

Avay, and

lost my
and

of

bottom

the

lying at

I found

when

morning,

next

expressed

in

ive
convuls-

horror."
More
which

than
he

such

one

confirmed

tale of diablerie

Mateo

frequent

asseverations

by

told me,
and

strong.

deep

and

and

hambra

through
brown

by
it

myrtles, separates

from
the

the
are

seen

led

gardener'slodge.

The

all

and

painted white,
to

Alhambra.

open
from

the

Orchards
this

colonnade
such

dusky

fig-trees,
granates
pome-

winding pathway
the

to

as

and

in full bloom

overlooks

the

distance, grows

compose

ascend, afford

you

liks

by

Generaliffe

buildingswhich

towers

palace

side

either

on
me

Al-

foi'tress of the

valley^ oppressed

gardens girdled
An

the

Generaliffe.

profundityof shade,

pleasantrelief
the

the

with

glen, thick

narrow

somber

walls

of

terraced

and

necklace

of

pearls.

Alhambra,

which,

majestic and

solid

387

INDISCRETION.

their

lose

its walls

shabbiness, and

its towers

their

squaliddecay.
villa of

This

by

architect

Sol

of

one

It

Alhambra.

which

breezes

of

percolatesits

Darro
from

rapid and

its

freshness.

apartments

of the

of

range

palace,and

arcades, is

open

of

shrubbery

taught

to

bend

said

when

received

me

fated

her

seem

to

the

take

his last

murmuring

an

cypress-trees,
form

over

the

tical
iden-

the frail Zoraya is

the

"

seated

bold, but
bitter

Hamet,

farewell.

tunate
unfor-

here, before

and

sweet

her

fancies,

entered

the

Pepe pointed

justify the

to

Arrested

his

of
he

by

drown

to

confidence

retrod

the

it
"

where

out

of

there

would
footfall,

lovers.

But

suspicion,

was

with

the

returning

no

were

his presence

shade,

his life the

his

was

grows
age.

darkest

the

disguiseconfession,he paid

rashness

lives and

in

concealed

streams

footsteps.

out

the

age
the Abenceralley through which
by the guards, into the prescrept, unobserved
ence
of his mistress.
This alley,canopied with
twining
inter-

ne'er

which

lover
wras

by

shaded

Abencerage
and

She

sides

arches, hang

lover, Aben

laurel, and
Avith

her

constant

graced by a
ever-changing

cypresses

rose-bush, indulging

grounds
to

These

the

gushing

up

; and

in

del

other

where
trysting-place

Abencerage.
favorite

flowers

themselves

or

have

to

the

on

arches,and

three

filled with

and

of purest water.
boudoir

sends
on

by

The

evergreen

garden, surrounded

Sierra

is fanned

its summit.

leaping stream

being

as

of the

"and

under

the

situation,than

arm

Sun

the

court

variety
basin

an

around

rustle

sultans

elevated

more

clings to

Mountain

the

"

its

of

purchased

was

Moorish

the

resort, from

cooler
the

mountain

the

enterprise. The cypress-tree, under

seized by the guards of the sultan, still
"

He

of great size and

who

could

find

height,but

hollowed

"tnncrues

in trees"

388

1NEXPKESS1VK

"

moving story from this

witnessed
generationafter

might gather many

of days," which
has
spring
of

of the

columns, and
and

they

could

to

not

represent.
sat

never

and

I did

the

neck

furred
Leon

I know

of the

artist and

historian

be

not

and

hero

nowhere
A

clearer

but

than

escape

the

remain

pointed out

frequent popular
all

to

day

me

subjects.
of the

The

Saint

nize
recog-

annals

in this

still

Ponce

As

summit

Moorish

Elena

to

wont

But

can

and

"

the

iffe,
General-

are

"

cause
be-

"

flyhere

in the
which
upon

city,

Pepe

his

bulent
tur-

building,and
still here.
"

thing.

and

of the Moor

insurrections

man

every

tures
fea-

Quin used

perish with their architect

builds, another
destroys, or time edax
ot

de

man

the

over

was

rocky

ruins of

Avould

every-day

down
lookingfearfully

Spanish chapel of

structures

consumes

"

upon

on

features.

that Boabdil

says

same

legible hand"

the Seat

"

the
same

Who,

but

man's

who

bumpkin.

writes

on

poles

confounding moral

deformity ;
like

us

pen

the

is the

in such

of

danger

as

Moorish

or

Pulgar

la Silla del Moro

tradition

and

Yilliers

page

look

; for the

give

bold, rugged height, domineers

called

to

or

Almighty

say, "The

to

Clarendon

sumed
as-

uals
individ-

same

portraitswide

us

traits
por-

they

persons

that the

physicalsublimity or

of the

idea

del
the

ings
ceil-

genuine, because

inexpressiveface

Hernando

or

stuccoed

them

not

of Christian

and

ble
mar-

believe

lettered

Boabdil

the

with

by

up

much

given
asunder.
Vandyke and
physiognomy ; a Stuart
or

is borne

think

pencilhave

canvas

principal
building

It is certain

the

to

youth,

gallery of portraits;

Alhambra,

historical

no

gave

the

tion
genera-

in

green

The

richlydecorated

arabesque.

; and

now

"

contains

like those

which,

"

disappear
the ground."

Generaliffe

the

ancient

and

up

withering on

now

POKTEAITS.

one

The
eration
gen-

rerum,

prospect from

this

height can

the

of

times

Many

had

sun

have

I left my

lodgings in

skirtingthe

"

on

was

and

reward

and

consequence

The

fragrantfreshness
and

sense

excitement

"

was

of human

of

thing

towering

acknowledge
of the Sierra

but

the
the

no

sorry

The

mind

gratified

four

Nevada,

coloringof
to

stamps

Alpujarras. It
in

the
of

was

and
soliloquies,

was

is,the

best

their

occasions

such

on

one

truth

to

"

icydomes
impress upon the

its

take

totter

man

and

in the

audible

to

all

Man

truth.

Alhambra,

yet

impassioned monologues
"

where

impotent

out

present

ity
van-

tial,
false,unsubstan-

me

centuries,and
and

lection
recol-

tions.
aspira-

fairypalace

the boast

"

The

I felt all the

and
Generaliffe,

myself indulging

pouring

the

sentiments.

here."

return.

seemed

man's

Cathedral

terrible

found

had

morn

foundations,while eternityis enthroned

of

littleness of human

within

come

fleeting. The

and

peace

of worldly
puerileanxieties,

to

representedin

objectsare

wild

the

serenityof

virtuous

be

to

me

; the

purposes

I had

the

into

nor
stirred,

of the unsunned

good for
corrodingcares,
indisposedme

of

every

of

mains
re-

heart.

I felt it

and

The

the

Nature, physical

its petal. I felt that soft

the

cut

me.

insect

no

"

to

General-

passing

up.

of

vada,
Ne-

Alhambra,

door

thing around

every

moral, yet slept

unclosed

rose

closed

now
rocky hill,

Sierra

of the

and

"

tanks, and the

Moorish

of the

the

gardens

fountains

the rays

of the

peaks

snowy

of the

the hour

morning, before

summer

iffe,perforated with
heart

it is enduring

"

gilded the

this steep

climb

destroyed

or

glorious.

it is

as

defaced

be

never

389

REWARDED

VIRTUE

; but

down

part of eloquence has

was

my

not

words."

never

been

expressed.
This
more

walk
for

me

of
:

"the

it got

morn"
fragrance-breathing
me

up

an

excellent

did

appetite for

390

BUSY

breakfast
I took

; it

Pepe

inaugurated

breakfast

my

improvised

guitar,amid
of

of

linen,the

by

the whitest

the

bread,

!
fresh
and

To

I would

pass the
To

in reverie.

hours

flow

Minerva

harnessed

which

calm

under

such

is the

sole

uncounted

hours

in Andalusian

an

of

flavor,
Nodes

such

fasts
break-

melons,

grapes,

"

the

paniment,
accom-

mercy.

always command,

down

she

seldom
of

us

that

Greeks,
the

the

stabled

our

you,

soothes

the

the

mosques,

The

she

ness
swiftteam

same

imagination.

the

ruins,the Christianized

tells

steeds.

existence,reposing

around

gives full play to

require.

denote

drove

piness
hap-

you

assist the

We

and

associations

Homer

siesta
is

atmosphere

an

chariot,to

moved.

Grenada,

before

excitement

to

her

to

the hours

by.

voluptuousness

romantic
it

I could

and

came

the

with

while

as

with

fruit

of the

morning

exist

sensation

"

when

accompanied

ayua

compare

nicest

pretermitted!

never

This

can't

with

trout, and

crowning

which
figs,prickly-pear,

The

The

chocolate,richest

as

the

upon

cheek.

con

while

shrubs, and

savory

tinto

or

nothing

say

most

vino

you

aromatic

omens.

Fonda,

garniture,were

the

coffee

Deum,

of the

garden

fanning my

of

purest of cream,

ccenceque

the

Sierra

cleanest

and

felicitous

appropriate melody

some

butter, with

sweetest

with

in the

with

day

my

fragrance of

the

the breeze

IDLENESS.

upon

heart,
ish
Moor-

tumes,
sparkling cos-

the
gorgeous

splendid paintingsbefore so unfamiliar,the

quent
hierarchy with their rich processionsand fre-

the
festivals;
and
bull-fights,

subjectsfor
the mind
I
no

My

never

more

tertullias,the

bailes
fits of

do

"

not

musing

"

theaters, alamedas,

these
the

afford
dolce

ever

ful
fruit-

far

niente

for

thought

of

?
had

an

idleness

body might

idle

moment

in

and

than
be

in

cup
state

Spain
"

balls

of repose,

is

is

occupation.

but

my

mind

intent

the past. And

upon

diversified

more

of

grandson
it,down
whether

The

its

historyis

and

and

that

raging

of

sea

made

period Spain
Pyrenees ; but the

and

of time

process

had

been

the

of

civilized

into

themselves

all-conqueringRoman.

centuries

elapsed before

cost

so

much

are

their

centuries.
of

wave

national

and

bination
com-

Celtiberian,first
Europe.

Up

to

the

over

that intervening

separating,brought
They

contact.

the

quered
con-

sea-coast, and

in their
No

in the

the whole

in

their

supplanted by
turn

gave

province of

that

acquisition.Two

its nominal

even

accomplished,though

say

bloody

demonstrated

portionsof

empire

of

accessible

only

remote,

universal

was

formed

far from

so

or

history,

romance

foremost

the

"

name

Phenicians

were

Bourbon,

through

us

Carthaginians,who

colonists,the
to

the
then

colonized

settled

merged
population that finallysub-

to

countries, however

its

two, after years

of water,

bodies

Tubal,

well-authenticated

so

reached

These

this

of

certainlyoccupied it,for

Asiatic

known

Spain

of

cient
an-

impossibleto

or

romance,

under

which

House

past

more

time

the

seems

exterminating contests,
"

way

it

day,

have

Europe.
almost

of the

certainlyfollowed

as

of annals

is supposed first to have

Iberians

blood

of

boast

can

From

yet seemingly

The

Celts

nation

accession

present

its annals.
names

what

ing
present, yet ruminat-

glorious!

who

the

strange

the

more

Noah,
the

to

to

even

or

upon

picturesque?

more

or

so

if not

active:

was

391

ROMANCE.

OK

HISTORY

subjugation

force of the

empire
fought his

it. Caesar
brought to bear down
upon
and gained
most
desperate battles within its territories,
victory only at the extreme
peril of life. During the
was

best

days

it gave

but

of the

empire

it flourished

in arts

orators, poets, rhetoricians,Emperors,

it followed

prosperity.

its fortunes

in

Franks,

the

The

and
to

arms

Rome

adversityno less than in

Vandals, the Alani, and

392

MINGLED

the

all invaded

Suevi,

gave

the

to

way

and

least

barbarous

Rome.

These

its
the

and

singular

indeed
and

of

Tales

One

of

many

the

the

fortune, the

since, Spain
been

its

upon

many

tongues

habits

its

Its

romantic,
and

its

is

scarred

ensanguined,

Its

wars

by

of

inhabited

all

the

as

nations

is
from

formed

the
crimes

most

the

It
the

cratic
idiosynof

composed
from

various
ties.
nationali-

numerous

by

as

character,

something
is

well

Europe.

by

language

emblazoned

alas !

the

romantic

Saviour,

our

impressed

character

by

the

institutions, and

integrity springs

history
is

has

destiny.

and

"

has

Cross

battle-field

the

language,
but

of which

one

were

between

courtesy,

of

conquered,
in

fantastic

"

Epic.

advent
was

overrun,

dissimilar

most

not

the

before

have

Spain

domination

the

splendid

would

might

succeeded

and

of Ariosto's

Long

has

Crescent

the

achievement

often

that

them.

Thousand

Arabian

their

most

history
; the

perhaps

so

of

centuries

of

the

found

Scherazede

realities

chivalric,

of

of

varying

the

sympathies.

history,

masquerading

circumstances

struggle

followers

country,

the

Princess

the

so

gorgeous,

of

gone

from

borrowed

been
so

have

to

of

that

became

Arabs,

people

firmed
con-

so

"

conquered,

later, the

all

rial
impe-

Spain

institutions, and

more

occupation

seem

inundated

its laws

and

and

"

generous

cherished

improved

language,
or

turn
most

that

and

and

picturesque

their

During

hordes

conquerors

centuries

two

the

Goths,

inhabited

in

it in

Avasted

of the

Christianity

amalgamated
So,

and

mightier

nations,

two

ELEMENTS.

exploits

the

most

exterminating,
most

revolting.

394

LALDATOll

with

speak

to

T.LMi'O.KlS

ease

which

he

Four

centuries

had

told

ACI'I.

he

me

left to visit the

from

was

of

home

Tangier,

his

ancestors.

elapsed,he said, since they had

in Grenada.
despoiled of their possessions
They
was
awaiting patientlytheir restoration, which

been
were

take

to

sure

had

"

place.

God

"

the

spoke of

former

possessionof Spain
of peace

and

war,

like of which

eye

had

of his

glory

of their

"

arts

is great."

not

in

in the
great proficiency

of this gorgeous

and

while

people

palace,the

seen.

he said,with indignation
thing of paintand whitewash!"
A paintedsepulcher,compared with what

"A

"

it was!

The

delicate

and

the

tracery has been

fretwork

days

walls

is gone

of

with

its
gildings,

lavish

its

its borders

beautiful

the

costlydecorations,its

rich

! but

recall

of its beautiful

Think

purple !
of

the

the

it in

Oh

relief,its precious mosaics,

and

remain, but

obliterated,and

forever.

Boabdil,

marble

its luminous

violet

inscriptions,

and
scarlet,fresh,brilliant,

ling!
spark-

Nay, recall its gloriousoccupants, with their

the gallantAbenpicturesqueand dazzlingcostumes
ing
cerage, and the haughty Zegri, cased in rich and shin"

whose

armor,

yet

reverberate

back

the harem
that

not
fell,

'

and

the

why
from

dwell
the

lost

the

decrees

Spain through

these

While

the

are

But

Star !'

of

Allah

desolate

infidel

blood

eternal.

civil feuds."

the loveliness
and

alas," he

enemies, but

our

il Allah

Bring

departed glories.

steeped
the

sabers

halls.

Fatima, Ayeshah,

power

was

clanking

and

perfumed baths, and

"

upon

with

red

fraternal hands.
His

them

Alhambra

Albaycin was
one.

the

Morning

civil dissensions.

gates, the

tread

through

graced

well-called
"

martial

was

in
of

There
The

our

her
tinued,
con-

"We
own

battering our

revelry,and
Moors, shed
is

no

Moors

God
won

the

by
but
and

AtOSLKM

I did
reverted

The

with

the torture

and

faith.

our

The

and

from

us

founder

theirs.
redeem

to

faith

Dios

far

sublime

more

from

the

wished
with

strove

they offer

contradiction

than

mighty prophet

sent

him

but

heavens, divested

dough.

of the

According

which
"

seemed

eternal,
them

to

himself

give
he, as

inscription "we
and

of

of

and

the heart

of

infidels who

his

ities
impuring
revolt-

have

opinion of

walls

our

verses

our

perfume.

do

and

The

our

beard

with

How

Koran.
tions
associa-

was

dened,
glad-

is it with

temples

How

they typifytheir religion? Visit their churches :

crucifixion,
ghastly with nails,and thorns, and blood
a

female, daubed

heart

!
!

with

an

wreaths

of the

eye

me.

read

religionwith

instructed.

desecrated

long

eloquent silence,

an

favorable

of the

was

of the

stooped down,

lilies surrounded

beauty

while

he

garlands, composed

Roses

the

him.

decorated

"

and

he

!"

to

See," said

less
help-

of baked

idea

holding myself equal to him

polemic controversy, I adopted

of

reverential

Not
in

and

idea

own

the form and

sovereign attributes,and assumed
of man
!
How
impious a conception,how
a

us

images

meaning,

our

our

not

were

soulless

"

more
as

"

they

did

without

is

God

uncreated
all-powerful,

descended

wrhat

they make
a
piece

or

"

awhile,

Why,

him

his

this,they

is

while

world,

nino

"

how

their

thoughts
nation, but

conversation.

of idols

acknowledge

the

infant
And

of

AYe

For

ceremonies

"

his

homes:

our

worship

stone

after

And

incomprehensible dogmas
the

the

resume

the stake.

exchange

of wood

of

us

of

greatness
to

driving

while

man,

he resumed,
infidels,"

deprive

in

former

his inclination

satisfied
to

the

to

awaited
"

interruptthe holy

not

b'95

KHAPSODY.

daggers piercing the

blood-boltered
tures
martyrdoms ! unexampled torBut
these, horrible as they are to the eye and
on

canvas,

396

have

mind,

been

Inquisition
Here
after

him

my
a

no

courteous

more.

friend

BRIEF

ACQUAINTANCE.

outdone

by

the

cruelties

of

the

cursed
ac-

!"

made

an

salutation,

of

end

went

speaking,
his

way

and
and

soon,

saw

XXXIII.

CHAPTER

ARCHBISHOP'S

THE

PALACE
ISABELLA

AND
OF

GRENADA"

OF

THE

Gil

it

Bias

be

not

visit

"

readers

the

tittle of

least

royal palace

not

believe

save

total

condemnation,

could

be

truth

house

is, that,

class,I had

and

But

Spain
with

Spain

; and

"

says,
richness

the

had

as

he
from

not

he

sented
repre-

observing

that

faith

truly

rat-hole

But
most

the

in the real

it is

"

Le

of the

palace,

described.

of

Spaniards

the

was

had

it from

what

uneducated

determined

to

his

tions.
descripcall

they

in

was

of his

imagine

in

least,

at

never

incidents

to

of Le

existence

compared,
Sage

The

Spanish authors, perhaps, as

compensation,

niture,
fur-

spare

they

redeem

said

Gil Bias

seen.

stole

the

magnificence."

necessarilygave
why

of

stories
with

the

upon

pictures,and

Pepe

believe

de rat ones,

book
of

the
to

this!

casa

many

like

begun

Sage's hero,

the

describes

mean-looking building, with

which

which

Grenada

naturally eager

plateresque front, to

the

the

in

in

He

was

he

myself

I shall content
the

naught

and

statues

equalled
could

SOCIETY

"

archbishop's palace,

historical.

building, extol

the

; but

DINAND
FER-

"

INFLUENCE

time

much

might enlarge,"

describe
my

CHAPEL

ROYAL

AND

the

to

rendered

has

of the

structure

it

OCCUPATION

I would

it.

see

THE

"

rivalinga royal palace, and

as

to

FRENCH

"

making

which

CATHEDRAL

ALAMEDA.

course

without

THE

"

imitable
in-

ter
mat-

beau-

398

D18OBD2B

ties, and

thus

of

gratify Espanolism.

palace,inside

have

humbled

When

three

"it

"

I had

I visited

the

It has

out.

or

that

the

pretensions to

no

was

nation
desig-

neither

cathedral

going

was

Brougham
to

The

been

but

tectural
archi-

unable

of the

to

have
of

heroes

built

What

of

order

Lords

It is

"

all.

offends

heroines

long
be-

to

antipathyfor

and

Lord

as

seem

its interior

it

whatever

say,

indeed

an

some

Christian-Gothic

should

not

dured."
en-

equanimity,

say ; but

to

House

It does

rather

less,some

no

the

be

to

was

of fashion.

out

glaring whitewash

; and

It

by.

designed, I

its order."

any,

lost

am

said

once

to

true

portion of

since,when

years

have

may

not

near

properly belongs to, I

one

tolerable,and

recovered

hundred

architecture

eye

However

accommodation.
I felt
beauty, nor domestic
disappointment like a personal grievance. To
had
expectationsso raised,and to have them
my

the

not

AKCHITEGTURE.

be, the building has

may

so

OF

the

in the

ners
cor-

bewigged a la Louis Quatorze. Why

their statues
should
be placed in a church
after deathj
when
there during
were
perhaps their persons never
are
we
life,puzzlesthe mind ; nor
prepared to believe
the
fit persons
for
pany
they are the most
gloriouscomof the Apostles," some
of whose
portraits,by
of the coro,

"

Alonzo

Cano,

object of
a

also

decorate

admiration

in the

the

paintingsby Alonzo Cano, Juan

pupil Bocanegra, is la Capilla de

few

his

either side of the

On

Royal Chapel.

of
sculptured effigies

pronounced

Painted
most

behind

memorable
them.

Ferdinand

flic-similes of

The

only true
cathedral, always excepting
coro.

and

their

de

Ribera,

and

los

Reyes

the

high

altar

The

forms, faces,and

of their

surrender

kneel

which
Isabella,

some
carvings, illustrating

incidents

"

reign,are

of the Alhambra

of

are
tumes.
cos-

the

suspended
is

one.

THE

rides

Isabella

white

on

occasions

himself

the

with

princes"

side

of the

from

ladies of Isabella's court, look

expressionof
There

been

have

chaste

as

their

with

her

buried

here

order

of

her

at

was

dulces

moriens

door

low

mortal

was

satisfied

after

of these

the

next

to

Juana,

crazy

magnificentlyattired.
Fleece, as

died

elsewhere,

to

annex

of the
but

which

the

she

Castilian
She

sepulcher in

was

residence.

favorite

appointed it

"

to

the second

; and

to

death

Argos.
into

down

said

Golden

reminiscitur

leads

cold,and

"

of

skillful artist.

Grenada,

her

middle
are

request.

much

so

ever

the

own

the

most

la Loca

Isabella

Burgundy.

prized it in life,and
"

all the

in marble

here

daughter, Juana

contributed

crown,

by

the first as

"

slumber

"

the
of

the

captives,
knights and
:

sight. They

"

House

foot,gives him

on

with

husband, Philip both

wears

had

life

as

them

He

Isabella

and

the

to

in Genoa

wrought

Ferdinand

rides

; he

sepulchersin

alabaster

delicate

chapel,

dinand,
Fer-

basso-relievos.
two

are

monious
cere-

ranking

ever

the wards

on

on

"

do

to

her, ride

was

gates, while

the

or

Mendoza

city,holding it by

pairs,issue

the

of

Wolsey,

Cardinal

"

wont

was

camp,

proud humility. Boabdil,

key

in

like

who,

he

she

royal

either

on

and

in

mule

the

39 y

ISABELLA.

palfrey,as

visited

she

in life when

OF

BURlAJL-Pl^ACE

Catholic

vault

kin^s"

where

all that

lies molderino-.

"J

The

coffins

neither
rather

their
than

are

plain, and

outside

nor

plebeian dust

probably, do

the

know

feastingupon

are

that in

worms

"

hooped
inside

your
this

should

they

Ferdinand

have

he

that

within

and

royal
; nor,

only true Democrats

decayed mortalitythey
"

are

left behind

feel when

iron ;

indicates

is contained

guilty oflese nuijeste.

If the spirits
of the departed

in the world

with

conscious

them, what

of events

anguish

contemplates the

condi-

FERDINAND'S

400

tion of his country

centuries

have

aid

for the

would

long

since

barely elapsed
of

alien

an

since have

the

machinations

policy and unscrupulous

but

his

availed

barbarity
Four
?
unknightly duplicity

his

"

CRAFT.

has

What

faith

his violated

"

VAIX

and

fabric

into

hand.

He

introduced,not
craft of his

in the

but

of his country

in its very

of the

it

Moors

home

by the revolt
territory abroad.

richest
boasted
and

that

now

upon

what,

upon

Grenada

is

her

populous, and

and

called it peace."

thronged its
they

left her

cities

sunken

the wild

respond for
As

I have

cathedral, or
tourists
Grenada
stolen

was
a

the

and

and

the

;"

ited
unlim-

have

"

him.

He

made

found

solitude,

streets

beings

"Where

scattered

of the

are

The

the first ;
the lair of

"

reptile

venomous

"

in

Grenada,

accused

few

but

saw

the

of valuable

paintingsin

of much

General

possession of

large number

"

resting-place

cities themselves

grass-grown

before,I

indeed

in

all that

its lands.

stake,have

the haunt

other

said

set

never

millions of contented

those

are

walls

beast

off its

successor

sun

last

He

cultivated

or

rack, the fagot,and

and

and

poor.

Three

Where

now

the

hissingand reproach to

provincesat

immediate

of
Spam itself,

his last conquest

"

expulsion

Netherlands, cut

His

save

siasm,
enthu-

it rise ?

empire, does
Grenada

fairest

his dominions

"

the

By

the

of the

; and

his

by

sown

blightedthe strength

blossom.

depopulated

inal
sem-

cold nature, that active

own

persecutingbigotrywhich

and

The

mistaken

from

it

power,

dust.

indeed, was
principleof dissolution,
own

his

raised ; and

was

heretical

crumbled

of

value.

the
glish
En-

Sebastiani,while
French, of having

paintings;

intended
for the English market, I
stories,
Captain-General of Grenada
say were
gross

but
heard

these
the

exagger-

402

PITT

he

ENGLAND.

BRUTALIZING

French

The

arum.

former

the

arisingfrom

occasioned

injury

while

already disappeared ;

latter has

ture,
litera-

panied
activityaccomintelligent

tastes, French

French

French

for another.

benefits

prepared great

become

the

the

by

advantages

daily more

and

more

manifest.
The
and

long

against France,

on

upon

barbarism.

from

the

study

commenced,

interruption,carried

an

only

not

generally, the
of

of

state

Pitt

throwing England

were

Continent

returning to

hardly

Repelled

for the

models

which

wars

savage

death, with

his

to

and

manners

insular

from

France, but
had

English
and

ignorance

no

and

morals,

or

back

also

\vm"

brutality.

An

intelligent
foreignerwho visited the country in the
latter part of the eighteenth century, was
surprisedto
in Pall Mall

observe

of London
a

fighting was

and

of France

classes

the

English
"

have

who

oughfares
thor-

there

equaled,if they

of the

the

humanized
not

could

cock-

Since

with

are

where

; and

pastimes

intercourse

Italy have

and

backers

deep-drinking.

familiar

and

of the

favorite

and

fashionable

pugilistic
encounter,

one

of the

high play

time, travel

them

was

one

with

"

set

"

of the realm

peer

of the most

one

"

which

elegant
and

few

bility
no-

ished
pol-

among

surpass, their

not

models.
"

The

ladies

Sevillians

they

so

But
that

of

Cadiz.
the

admixture

of Grenada

have

the

beauty
intelligentor well
nor

the

society of

Malaga, as
They

boast

the
to

mushrooms
of

Moorish

of

not

educated

societyof
be

of the

of trade.
blood

As
in

grace

Gaditanse

the

Grenada

the

nor

"

those

as

looks

their

that

is

veins

places less isolated,they retain the Moorish

are

upon

azul, and

there

the

of Malaga.

down

Seville upon
sangre

of

of
hor
ab-

greater
than
,in

character-

"

and

kings :

of

hand

small

the

it is the

as

enduring

of

dim

dimpled

the

"

the

"

hand,
and

contour,
kissable

youth"

Oriental
in

score

of

the

on

hopes broken.
city the calle

their

de

"

Their

Tobias

been

and

from

the

wrealth

In

essentiallyMoorish.
end

one

gives it

the

to

bazaar-like

The

Alameda

one

of the

of

there

Luque

they

it is covered

summer

other, with

they

The

appearance.

Grenada,

have

where

the

Darro.

resort

every

ladies

determine
here

planned

over,

awiiing, which

an

or

El

Salon

is

It

Andalusia.

that

it is

as

river,after

feigned repulses,finallyconsummates

day.

dered.
plun-

great shopping
of the silversmiths,is

and

or

the

the

advances

adventures

of

were

point

the

among

days

the

Grenada

of

fine

some

Xenil, at

of

the

portion

are

de

of which

pleasantestin

espousalswith

as

the

not

built,when

Conde

market

and

Grenada,

is

by refugees from the

were
limited,and

"

Zacatin, however,

freshness,

less pretensions

built since the

have

The

is

la

tune,

or

have

aristocratical

the

these

of

means

In

; but

Moors,

from

wane,

in the teens.

as

was

of the

mansion

the
buildings,

street

ten

Grenada

was

power

its

smaller, and

Seville,are

conquering Spaniards.

them

and

years

appearance.

Arabian

grows

life ; and

eloquence, throughout

type

most

the sweetest

"

retains

"

houses, generally, of Grenada

The

the

furrowed

by climate, exposure,

unaffected

three

at

scepter of

brightesteye

becomes

in immortal

flourishes

The

graces.

in

power

it is the

beautiful,so

most

cheek

more

they

fullness,and the richest hair its color

their

lipslose
but

female

is

which

in the

than

woman

feet,of

there

indeed

For

justlyproud.

are

and

bands

beautifullysmall

istics

403

INDIFFERENT.

HOUSES

THE

Here
summer

the

conclude

in their

the

grace

hopes
those

boudoirs,

or

on

many

of the

to

the
coy

its
fashion

and

evening

called,

recount

preceding

triumphs which
rehearsed

from

REVELATIONS.

LOVE

404

balconies.

their
of

flowering

of

the

lusian

Alleys
shrubs

heart,

which

under

the

eve.

invite

gush
influence

of

shady
and

forth
of

and

trees,

protect

parterres

the

revelations

spontaneously
the

soft

airs

and

of

an

sistibly
irre-

Anda-

XXXIV.

CHAPTER

BOABDIL'S

GATE

took

PEPE

for

which,

tower

It

is in

unfortunate

The
Catholic

monarch,

should

be

walled

always

seem

of this
be

could

Isabella

up

by

the

Catholic
ever

the

better

now

been

indeed

strange

the

It

did

mere

had

Siete

Suelos

the

the
a

the

"

stories

the

main
re-

or

their
in

instances

could

tradition
of others
own

sons;
per-

"Writ

Holy

granted by

was

readily,I

as

suppose,
and

of entrance

up, and

the

gate

after him

jealousy

wish

of

request

descent

unanointed

egress.
persons

it.

wreck, having
little for
look

to

inhabitable, though

only

once

by

more

not

after the

was

one

two

cared

time

what

departure

no

modes

desecrated

kings.
some

or

of

last

solemnized

walled

was

French, who

have

that for
and

is

that

Boabdil's

other

tower

his

entertained

gates

afterward

out

filled up.

be

of oriental

feelingone

So this gateway

The

on

have

to

and

were

never

that

adduced.

Ferdinand
there

made

through

went

of

two

to

king
so

los

But

TOWER.

gateway

of

de

said

are

up,

through

passing

Torre

it. Princes

though

pass

HAUNTED

the

to

center

high.

five

other

the

the

la

"

stories

seven

day

THE

time, Boabdil

last

tower

OF

STORV

one

me

the

Alhambra.
formidable

PEPE'S

"

Moors

been

apparitionsthat

made

or

assured

been
on

blown

the

if it could

as

Pepe

deserted
had

Boabdil,

me

it had

been

me

occupied,

account

of

it untenable.

406

"

PEPE

Thereby hangs
if he

Pepe

tale," I

knew

KACONTEU1J.

of any
in

cAos," repliedhe, and

in the

would

he

rooms,

asked

connection

with

it.

evening,when

relate to

me

he

which

one

of

J/"-

"

to

came

he

knew

be well-founded.

to

"Well,with
a

myself, and

to

particularcircumstance

supernaturalcharacter
my

said

Pepe. I had
evening came
quantity of cigarettesand a bottle

vast

Penas.

He

him, and
"

You

haunted

was

untimely

an

the

through
caring

for

one

family

and

"

Moorish

or

poor

bolt.

live

this

they only because

indeed.

The

Dios

come

nightly

sabe, quien

knows.
but

tower

they

had

stairs,without

who

knows,
in

Torre

walked

down

Porque,

did so, God

would

who

held

in the

who

woman

and

up

de,

escaped

kings

dwelt

therein, and

apartments,

she

no

by

there

Val

little while

Catholic

the

family very

death

lock

why

"

while

of

speak :

Carlos,that

Alhambra,

Suelos

to

provided

word

copita,a

himself

Don

conquest, and

Siete

tower

sabe

addressed

of the

los

weed, took

know,

must

command

to

lit his

he thus

after the

de

the

could

ever,
How-

this

poor

live nowhere

else.
"

any

Well,

Carlos, they had

Don

other

disaster

this Moorish

them, six

than

and

few

from

intrusion

indeed

days ;

without

there

occasional

an

apparition,which

months

lived

spoke

never

I believe

to

days

ten

in all."
"

Xo

the

about

matter

odd

days, Pepe

"

them

throw

in."
"

was

The
on

his

rest

and

dignitynow,

if I tell you
the

story is true, Senor

whole

of the

lie about

gave

the

Don
me

days

Carlos"
full

you

(Pepe
"

title)
;

will not

and

believe

story."

"

Perhaps

"

"Well, then, Don

not,

Pepe

; but

Carlos,

andamos."
one

night

the

wife of the

DEMOXS

(theman

mason

her

and

sister went

Algibes

los

inhabited

who

for

407

AFLOAT.

down

the tower
the

to

mason)

in the Plaza

well

wherewith

water,

was

continue

to

de

their

usual

occupation of twisting thread ; and as they were

dipping their jug into the fountain,they perceived
fearful

agitation of

remained

dead

fainted

not

for

assistance.

She

three

there

to do

was

yet she

perhaps

of demons.

no

till her

the

he

summons

shout

husband

door

at the

but

by

no

city;

the
for

one,

and

house.

besides

She

knew

she dared

scene

only sister

in the power

distracted

between

fear to return.

repeated
There

this

returned

from

tower.

No

of the

shout.

upon

the sister

yes

In this

time, hearing nothing, seeing

nothing, alive,but motionless,she

nothing, capable of
knocked

and

sister

of

state, unconscious

remained

was

desire

found

in the

her

and

stairway of

the dreadful

to

She

the

the

to

one

leave

must

between

"

no

to return

not, and

and

down

gone

wife

after awhile
up

had

what

and
fright,
Avife rushed

husband

these

The

water.

The

seek

to

her

with

away.

tower

the

door,

blow
was

other

this

to

raised
of

means

fastened

was

and

coming

one

blow, and

upon
no

and

Grenada,

trance
en-

within

by strong locks and stronger bars.

Despairing finally
of getting inside without
assistance,and surmising
something terrible from the reputation of the tower,
he
and

he

went

told

had

feared

the

to

him

quarters of the

what

heard

had

accompanied by

minutes
out

from

before
one

his wife

or

file of soldiers
to

Catholic
had

the

in

of the

and,

and

it to

The

part recovered

loop-holesof

guard,
that

moreover,

sister.

The

the

towei', and

kings.

the

within, which

groans

door, commanding

of the

name

like

from

hastened

againstthe

happened

sounds

proceeded

captain of

be

the

captain,
mediately
im-

mason,

struck

loudly

opened

in the

wife, who
her

he.

but

senses,
tower,

few

looked
and

ex-

408

THE

'

claimed,

Alas

dear

you,

is I and
"wife

the

of God

name

keys

with
for the
; but

from

ancestors, which

her

which

in its stead

she had

kept in

thinking,however,
her

consternation

"

If that

the

was

Don

Xo,

door
"

"

As

been

swooned.
wife !
I do
Do

into

in

dying.
and

he

is

cried
now

out,

four

get

'

of

sister ! my

sister,seuora

Has

Whereupon

the

shall

roughly,

throw

upon

they

of water

what

have

oif ?'

said

When

to.

you

is your

dear

my

"

faint whenever

since

where

have

what

and

full bucket
her

the husband

thereupon

wife

My

water,

recalled

! my

;' and

him, and

can
a

captain

there

Juan,

dear

"

some

threw

husband,

shall I do !

women

Alas

hours

the

on."

go
"

out,

hold

captain and soldiers,and

she

the

opened

never

house

What

brought

soon

'

this

cried

mason

These

face, and

to

shaped

one

immediately seized
4

go

And

had

tower

said, My

please.'

had

she

key, nor

But

the

the wife

captain took

why,

the

not

story.

!' The

wife.

your

her

is

treasures, and

is true, seiior."

doings

The
She

down

come

Pepe, perhaps

case,

and

arm,

strange

to

it fitted."

of the

and

"

the

by

'

This

the rest

soldiers

her

not

was

place by itself. Without

applied this to the door, and

largerkey, and

Well, they got

and

had

bunch

all."

was

before.

that

unlocked

Carlos, it was

It

like it.

her

door, it

the

one

The

safe

found

rightkey, after
"

she

she examined

opened

be found

soldiers.'

winding stairway,
for she still
falling,

prevent her

that

one

with

the

agitation. As

is that

"

'

the

guard,

?"

replied, Yes ;
Catholic
kings. It

mason

and

the

to its sides to

weak

of

And

?'

husband

my

hereupon slowly descended

holding on
was

you,

captain of

the

KJCY.

! is that

Juan

in the

open,

MIRACULOUS

wife told

she
had

dear

been
any

him

the

the

saw

happened,
sister !

away.'
one

upon

'

carried
whole

It
But
her

story,

410

CAPTAIN'S

THE

DOUBTS.

'

Tellingher this,and saying in supplicatorytone

"

did n't

But, Pepe, why

the

as

cross

scattered

the

girlmake

them?

saw

the

That

sign of

would

have

them."

had

they

risk her

She

sabe f

"Quien
what

she

as

soon

Ma-

vanished."

nochej they

la

nana

to

was

woman,

and

woman,

Don

say.

wanted

hear

to

Carlos, would

gratifyher curiosity."
They say the first of the sex did,Pepe but vamos."
The
ed
captain,on hearing the girl's
story, command-

"

soul

to

"

"

soldiers

two

the

of

rest

the

wholly discredited
Carlos,and knew
to

dire torments

these

go

unless

because

to

to

them

had

they

should

most
to

Vamos

be

he

and

failed

to

gratify

messenger

of the wrhole

command

to

turn

whether

tower,

of the tower
for

the

replied that

"

the
order
within

the
their

and, if false,

circulatingscandalous

merciful

al dbanil

morning
him

had

hesitate

determination,Pepe

the wise

to

which

punished

proper

Next

mason.

wrho

custodians

ahora

holy padre,

account

an

glad

because, if true, persons who

with infidels,
though disembodied,

not

or

proper

to

dispatcheda

of the

out

intercourse

not

"

he

in return

mason

true

was

had

received

the

were

"

alive would

kings, with

family of
story

those

be

sufferingsuch
think why they

to

that

Catholic

matter, and

him

would

were

than

However,

the

to

they

nor

Christian,Don

rather

after death.

believed

Moriscos

puzzled

feared

when

was

ing
dur-

woman

neither

story. He

women

they

them

convert

He

place where
it

the

guard

that the poor

; but

should

and

night.

the

of the

out

get

remain

to

Let

; and

character

us

now

captain of
of the

most

of

formant
con-

dinand."
Fer-

speak of the
the guard communicated

Catholic

the week

king

truths."
un-

he

kings,to
would
quit

MASON'S

THE

the

allowed

be

his

with

tower

really true,

true, I will die

"

I believe

"

'

In

the

Grenada.'
not

woman

to

care

again

feared

should

go
*

appear.

he, cunningly, ' if

dresses, what
for

much

that
with

her

all the

and
a

went

remained

so

Moors
and

stood

was

told the

They

some

in the

Christian

with
he would
that

jugs
saints,and
when

gold.
do

!"

gold, what

relics

of

One,

It

fountain.

and
upon

the convulsed

his wife

their

The

ah1

they

done, they

could

wanted.

find

to

The
the

waters,
the

767.

they would
baptize them
fountain

Moorish

blessed

year

It

if

that

replied without

mason

go

in the

heads, and

faith,they should

the selfsame

regal port.

died

rived,
ar-

all of

majestic than

had

had

who

were

still,

was

when

more,

more

turban, and

; and

midnight

dreadfullyagitated, and

them.

down

go

got ready

or

too

was

ly,
said, decided-

would

hour

not

wife,'said

hoarded

from

would

might

This

She

see

necessary

the

were

hour

an

this

whereupon

dear

she

the
the

to

kings

water

wife.

the

for half

mason

throw

have

might,

down

white

of the

one

So

they

once

the Moors

or

would

slowly ascended
before

rest, wore

him,

come

it became

sudden

not

half of

one

alone, said it was

in the

together, and

they

buy

to

their lives ;

save

go

you

of the

images

it is

fountain,and

the

to

only think, my
they should give us

what

If

guard

will all go

we

And

husband.

collected

to

woman

come

to

with

jewels

the

sister said at

and

who

the

on."

give gold enough

there

the mason,

jugs

same

wife

The

'

replied:

Go

Pepe.

very

will

down

go

captain of

case,' said the mason,

Moors

if these

She

his wife's

!'"

it now,

that

with

night

maid

the

could

captain assented,

inquiredof

told

not.

or

The

mason

story she had

sister if the
was

the

if he

movables,

long.

so

Then

left him.

and

familyand

remain

to

-11 1

WIFE.

rest

ning
run-

hesitation

king said,
of Chris-

412

THE

"Whereupon, the

tians.

repeated
a

it

the

on

and

bolt

with

the

and

which

them

this

the

a
fell,

On

from

recovered

and

of

pretext

names

of

smote

the

the

they

carrying

away

trance

before

saw

felt that

now

When

sight.
from

thrown,

been

golden stream,

true.

of thunder

vanished

had

they

sprinkled

the fountain,
ground near
gushed forth,running

stream

his wife had

ing
hav-

told their beads

and

on

Moors

The

gold.
mason

spot

wife,after

his

in their hands

fearful burst

from
a

into

was

water

when

"

where

the

and

mason

Moors, baptizing them

Christians

tower,

took

GOLD.

OF

paternoster, and

many

time,

many

with

STEEAM

the

story

their

hold
house-

mules, which
effects,
they loaded
they hired two
down
with
before
the dawn, they went
gold. Then
returned."
out of the Alhambra, and
never
"

"

"

that, Pepe.

every

caballero, Pepe

de

fe

gentleman
Si, senor,

the

upon

don't

you

?"

true

are

tell lies like

I don't

word.

/"',senor,

But

of this tale

say that all the incidents

to

mean

easilybelieve

can

Jew."

honor

of

"

"

"

sir,and
Christians

Jews
"

the

; it
"

But

those

are

previous to

Pepe.

faith of

the

on

the

Moors.

very

rent

from
us

old

an

who

"

also."

Christian

I will show

turret

to

to

the

return

Christian

in contradistinction

in the

tower

the

Yes,

viejotambien.

claim

Conquest,

or

runs

let

de Christiana

afe

Old

ancestry
to

verted
con-

you," continued

made

by

the

ning
light-

ground."

Pepe, unless
story itself,

it

is concluded."
"

The
Nearly so, Don Carlos.
captain of the guard
had not sleptthat night what
with
the noise
of the
who
were
thunder, the dreadful neighingof the horses
found next
and yet
morning covered with perspiration,
shivering and his anxious thoughts about the mason's
"

"

"

story. He

rose

very

early in

the

morning,

and

pro-

CHURCH

THE

with

ceeded
door

the

kings,who
Vega,

ventured

another

the

all

who

the

to

came

and

and

"

once

more

seized

been

to

and

tower,
from

into

the

carried
their

He

ately
immedi-

the

Catholic
from
of

towns

things

the

at

fear

multitude

the

all the

astonished

to

found

he

messenger

found

and

untouched.

people

were

He

began

regions,particularlyas

dispatched
Grenada,

within

one

little furniture

and

clothes

the tower.

to

demons, had

of these
infernal

the

no

family,having

presence
to

and

open,

the

that

file of soldiers

413

CONVINCED.

the
had

that

occurred."
And

"

afterward

ever
"

Si,

kings

After

begun

and

Grenada.

to

seemed

They

sabe.

the

to

sums

the

for

troubled

such

canalla^ disbelieved

said

that

having
he had

Church,

the

discovered

some

seized

invented

truth.

But

grandfather has

the

tell the

mason

"

That

"

Well,

"

So is the

It

was

is

of

many

had

told
a

Catholic

died, they

had

all

been, Dios

they

gave

great

pious

poses,
pur-

like Jews

story, and

hidden

hoard, and

Catholic

kings

the

me

man

that his
who

or

strength

suspicionfrom

divert

seen

the

had

the

father
grandheard

story himself.'.'

conclusive,Pepe."
bottle,Pepe.

with

such

still,and
a

story is finished."

Carlos, my

Don

were

away

who

man

the

this tale upon

to
reputation,

when

mason's

the

by

tower's

knew

years,

persons,

the

of the

my

woman?"

other

Some

them.

be

as

and

masses

and

fearful that it would

they

rich, but

be

to

the

had

guard

Where

Church

nobody

many

nothing

was

forgotten,and

be

to

and

mason

good

captain of

the

returned

of the

heard

senor.

story had

But

they might be, Pepe.

well

stories

You

have

timed

it well."

the castanets
Pepe, when
twinkling feet fatigued,whiled

leisure hour

of

revealed
gold miraculoiisly

that

evening.
was

Hidden

treasures

the fruitful theme

of

414

THE

liis

all

nearly
their

tales

make

the

the

miraculous

to

one

every

force
the

the

"

critic,

himself

the

si

he

stones

of

The

deep

full

effect

but

the

immediate

the

translation.

words

and

the

story

auditor,
idiomatic

vis

these
while

fervor

me

sought
the
with

accent

narrated,

were

of

sciously,
uncon-

countenance,
broken

yet

events

the

solemn

of

era

if

implicitly,

Roman

the

first

gesture,

necessary

in

Moros

los

followed

believe.

others

which

the

believed

and

de

"

eloquent

to

of

advice

STORY-TELLIXG.

tibnpo

Pepe

the

to

cl

occurrence.

flere"

OF

SECRET

all

are

are

lost

much

disappear

of

XXXV.

CHAPTER

R1DB

TO

EL

PICACHO

Ix

THE

"

ride

ASCENT

"

Pepe

PICACHO

Grenada

would

I not

had

THE

IMMACULATE

AGUARDIENTE
THB

"

CEPTION
CON-

THE

"

NIGHT

THE

VIEW"

AT

RETURN.

is many

there

esque
pictur-

It

historically
picturesque.
morning,

Vega,

and

ride

to

trust

have

made

required

his

his

to

some

fortune

to

always accompanied

qualitiesalone
necessary,

VENTA"
OF

THE

of the

"

adventures.

and

OF

often, of

village

pueblo

THE
COPITA

naturally and

"

custom

my

VILETA"
THE

"

vicinityof

the

was

LA.

ROBBERS

FREVESIN

EL

DK

THE

"

for

ble
; his socia-

me

companionship

assistance

guide

as

cicerone,
The

longest

of

is

as

much

the
we

day

All

that

from

two

of

and

the

it is

of the

could

distance

in.

set

at

After

was

too

this

Avas

much

the
view

as

we

of the

San

before

of the

proximity,
Charles

and
V.

became

easily concurred

I
"

soft and

Better

tomb

Its
the
it.

surmount

Alhambra
of
the

the

Antonio,

city,and

est
high-

above

intention

crossing the Xenil,

pueblo

the

making
heat

first

of

place

whence

we

Alhambra.

uncouth, disjointed,outre, in the

distance;
of

feet

left the

good roadsters,we

able,
agree-

Nevada.

holiday-taskto

no

most
to

Sierra

thousand

twelve

the

Veleta, next

the

charming

sentiment

de la

early breakfast,with

halted

had

from

sea;

on

an

than

more

level of the
Mounted

Picacho

and

made,

we

Alpine peaks

the

height

after

El

to

was

excursion

latter,

harmonious
with
in

the

the
Al-

416

than

hambra

stopped, to get

we

and

wine

red

water

as

invariable

courtesy

Cfracias,

of kindness
than

among

insular

people.

When

and

wine

my

it to

with

will you

the

join us?"

edged
part acknowl-

my

It is better

superciliouslook

or

lunch

tasting,ofiered

before

them,

I like this custom,

under

encounter

I saluted

strangers.

brow

sullen

often

too

you

on

"

relation,gratefulif temporary,

between

the

"

the invitation.

that it establishes

only

agua

accosted

was

Gkiste usted?

con

taking olives,

alfresco.
and

where

venta

(into

were

caballeros"

senores

declined

and
if

"

the

vino

men

dismounted,

of course,

At

latter.

two

"

in allusion

"

capita of

HERBS.

Alpujarras"

cheese, with wine

bread, and

"

the

of the

choice

Boabdil's

to

in

palace

OF

GATHERER

THE

tainly
cer-

which

similar circumstances

brought, I, of

were

them, and

course,

met, of course,

I
graciousdenial. But when, on renewing our glasses,
told Pepe to urge their participation,
with a true sense
of civility
they accepted: as a compliment, they had
declined

; but

they

when

found

I would

their

acceptance, they held it ill-bred

were

men

of

natural

good
of

ease

; but

manners

one

be

gratifiedby

refuse.

to

had

deportment,

address,you

carriageand

Both

seldom

find

high life. He had a large bundle of green

beside
him, which, he told me, he had gathered
Sierra Nevada, and Avas
earring to Malaga for
in

unless

herbs
in the

medicinal

purposes.
all complaintsof the
Avalked
at

all the

or

Yet
and
is in
While

days

he

doubtless
a

man's
was

o\vn

He

said,very
Avas

Malaga, had

Sierra, and

four

he

were,

stomach.
from

Avay

least,the

foot ; three

They

Avas

of hard

seemed
had

on

good for
foot, had

ascended

returning on

noAV

labor, for

pensation.
slightcom-

Avell-satisfied with
reason

to

way,
part-

be

so

"

his

for

dition,
con-

ness
happi-

heart.

conversing

with

him,

tall,upright,

418

THE

the

great general

whose

resembled,

he

THE

too

great

to

master

cold

be

Upon

should
my

had

I gave

pearance
ap-

services

BEGGAR.

years,

him

present

performed

not

he had
in

more

served

tending

thrown, in destitute

neglect.

lie said

long

his

fallen state

requited ; yet

many

to

"

be

BEGGAR.

age,

than

an

ful
ungrate-

his flocks faithfully

upon

usual

the

world's

alms, Avhich

be

repaid in glory.
mounting my horse to

take

leave, my

ac-

THE

of the

quaintance

unless

extend,
I

was

I had
?

We
the

had

heated

two

votis

it

should

was

often

think

they

foolish

their

of

loneliness

The

(for all
week

before, on

"

oozing

out

wishing
I

had,

all my

on

at

for

were

Val

de

"

money,

except

few

"

loss of
"

to

save

my

at

expense

ffentc..?" I askpd

of

Pepe.

Valencia,
I had

got

Acres's,

Bob

my

Napoleons

life at the

ance
resist-

and, like him, I

home

self-respect.

Mala

which

long shot,"

always give you a severe

coin, at
give them
satisfactory

only hope

to

like

robbers
don't

limbs.

my

diligenciathe

the

Penas,

very

of my

revolver, and

Madrid

from

Pepe's advice, left

on

of

finger'sends"

long, a

I shuddered

incapacityfor

stoppage

highway

my
a

occupied
Colt's

fear

realization

the

tremor

their

mortal

like persons

answered,

I felt all the valor

us.

nursed

and

was

the

with

be

of

But

terminate

to

in

erat

Spain, that

I left.

place, our

the

"

unsexed

cold

arms

Pepe's)

of

almost

the

our

knife

up

Hoc

entered

is to

hundred

truculent-looking

seized

thought

gasconade.

about

death

on

are

appeal

bare

the

at

what
some-

our

deep thicket,

carabines.

before

called

sufferings,and

fancied
if

with

bandits

have

of

out

were

wish, when

my

encounter

who

They

us.

armed

individuals,and

walking

were

from

six miles

or

emerged

men

of

front

in

terest
in-

majo.

five

from

animals, when

roadside,

that

brilliancyof

the

dress, en

sharply,and

rather

knew

he

affairs,
and, perhaps, quien

rode, perhaps,some

venta

by the
yards

his

in full

was

to

necessary

But

impressed with

for I

costume,

my

"

doubtless, grateful for the

in

shown

his adieus

thinks

personal friend.

somewhat

was

seldom

Spaniard

to

make

to

arose

stranger ; was,

sdbe

herbs

the

courtesy that

419

BANDITTI.

indeed

watch

and

; but

ish
Span-

as

beating
the

best

if you

I could

of bruises

and

420

AN

Dios

"

DISAPPOINTMENT.

AGKEEABLE

Yb

sabe, senor.
I

sir ; but

afraid

arn

they

advance,

not

the

on

hoping
I

So

prudence.

was

God

"

knows,

are."

in

only safetywas

Our

si

que

creyo

told

Pepe,

had

we

charge indeed,

de

pas

safety. Desperation

no

better
in

but

had
seemingly unsuspiciousgait. We
gone, perhaps,
half the intervening distance, when
of the
one
one

brigands
ladrones

raised

On

looking

the

were

"

and

Pepe

at

words

preparationsto dismount,
his holsters

at

took
click

"

mine

hostile

it

direction

of

"

pulling out

He

amigos
What

carabine

the

making

pistol,I

it.

son

appeared.

was

and

"

thought
intended,

the

of

I had

moment

the

stop, they

"

words

the
not

understood
I mis-

and

"

instead

no

cally
mechani-

heard

request for aguardiente

bottle

of the

excitement

"

him

heard.

contrary, tugging

of his

cocked

he,

tierra,

yourselves upon

the

on

passing bird

some
were

was

but

la

imagination

my

search

said

so

for us, but

throw

observing

and

out

Jamas,"

friends"

are

if in

as

J3oca

"

and

"

rascallyrobbers,

you

"

bellies"

your

his carabine

pistol.

forgotten he

Pepe
In

the

had

no

pistolto pull out.

One
this

like to make

would

sublunary stage
cut-throat
it could

where
To

stand

equal

at

that

that

fear

death, would
But

to

an

your

you

such

obscure

mon
com-

sequestered place withal,

if he did show
known
pluck.
of

distance

loss

will

be

one

to

opinion,stronger

induce

reconciles
fall,
of

encounter

in
pistol,

of

bullet

chance

the

exit from

dramatic

more

paces, with

ten

against a former friend, with

will gain credit for courage
you

if you
the

be

by

gentlemanly

survive, and
least

in

and

"

never

weapons,

than

to

odds

accept such
as

spot, without

an

carabine
a

duello.

the

the

surance
as-

if you
and

known

than

the

fear

mented
la-

At
of

arbitrament.

against your

witness

or

chroni-

TRUE

cler of your
the

for

pl-owess

quarrel,or
make

must

us

finds in mortal
do

love

not

relieved

bashfulness

or

for

peer

I have

that

romantic

that

in

as

shooting excursion, where

birds
un

of the

air,and

which

he

vayas

usteds

Then

but

spurred

before

where

found

him

dine

los

hospitable. He
a

bota

of

He

fields of

from

us

he

Pepe

said, and

was

was

very

(Pepe) would
said
convidado
you

are

pupil, had

"

he,
"

proud.

his heart

d boda

don't

attend

urged."
"

nice

lunch,

and

urged

than

the

ish
Span-

his friend

declined

satisfythe

with

caballero.

of his house

extensive

He

was

as
us

large

as

no

his

means.

him,

or

"

he

cause,
; beser

baptism

less
un-

Falstaff says of his

iteration"

he

sin

vayas
a

or

of

substance,

the invitation

wedding

as

with

dine

bantizado,

of

man

us

fish and

usual

of
hospitality

companied
ac-

and

once,

proprietor, and

Pepe,

damnable

we

was

have

ni

Indeed

he

was

"

venta,

no

podrida,

entertained

have

not

up

merely

balcony

with

better, he said,

was

Penas,

to

of

"

miles

was

I, however,

seemed

to

there

otta

earnest

the

desirous

very

"

had

trot, and

more

more

not

of which

wheat,

which

He

the

but

courtesies,which
showed

de

fare

the invitation.

that induced
many

Val

us

his invitation

promulgating his bill of

mutton.
Pepe said it was
compliment,

got

the

was

parted

reinos.

cuatro

either side.

three

Avho

on

game

another

on
or

friend

de

repeating

two

quite

was

were

we

on

pueblo,where
a

ventas

with
to

horses

our

had

Pepe

all the

than

at

and

"

pulling up,

halted

we

"

; I

species. Pepe
some
Cognac

"

glass each,
blessings

Dios

con

we

made,
when

them

gave

friends

own

Francia

knowledge
ac-

reward

own

expected

their

not

aguardiente de

de

poco

virtue,its

the

spect
re-

which
intrepidity

bandit-looking

our

part, I

own

danger's sake, and

for

it is

"

my

motive

antagonist

an

For

danger,

without

"

pause.

not

danger

421

HOSPITALITY.

was

royal
always

422

SLEDICTNAL

THE

REPTILES.

stiort sentences
quoting or improvisingone of these
from
izes
characterdrawn
long experience,"as Cervantes
"

in

from

fact

the

that,

twenty-four thousand
Triarte

de

that he

; and

When

Grenada,

from
and

We

rider.

had

de

dulces

ones

"

only

las

be

be

may

century

were

very

Puche,

rived
deago,

Juan
more

many

shaken

horse

Jam-

some

hams

the
be

not

can

provide

sweet

"

five hours

some

forage for

to

to

care

have

With

eaten.

unlearned

together by

it time

Alpujarras

They

Jew."

'Ebrew

at the

taken

would

pujarras,that

there

thought

we

the

gather.

arrived

had

we

than

collected

doubtless
to

libraryof

more

were

unable

was

the

of their currency

estimate

Some

Spain.

fonn

which

and

them,

of the Al-

prejudicesof

described,they

these, some

cold

chicken,

an
can

and

accomplished dinner, with such an

appetiteas a long ride, a long fast, and bracing air
from the mountains
conspired to give. We did justice
de

vino

JSaza,

the viands

to

we

the

and

consumed
is Jd

de

These
and

thus

of their
"

preciousjewel

man

have

Having
road
our

we

passed

rocks

path
are

one

"

very

was

El

thrown

while
like men,

descernible

We

again.

on

others
like

"

ourselves

after death.

and

horses, we
to

"

resembled
a

whale."

dance

some

the couchant
The

Picacho

yet

of many

took

the

slowly,

"progress"

"

pensations.
com-

wears

only

always upward.
the trough
Domaje
together as if they were
St. Vitus's

dangerous

virtues

the

now

Vipers.

qualities
;

venomous,

and

obliged

were

the

After

awhile,

where

jagged

suddenly
had

rested
ar-

features

lion,and
now

layed,
al-

place

is full of these

toad, ugly and

refreshed

of the

perhaps

Nature

in its head"

been

for

redeem

lives.

The

Ravine

or

this

for their medicinal

their death

by

character

Viboras,
hunted

reptilesare

hunger being

our

cigarritos. Near

muchas

Sarranco

; and

vino

saw

fullyre-

SNOW

THE

itself,
catting the

vealed

could

gave

hear,

as

us

with

clouds
of

menace

step by step

faint roar, and

the

Avay,

of

; and

423

FIELDS.

made

we

could

the

coursing through
and

and

It

Vega.

and

orchards, groves,
lie harsh

and

Man

Nature

Las

next

stage

Piedras

Francis

de

why

"

worthy saint

from

Seen

prayer.

by fields of

relief
Here

which,

the

rage

of the
endless

nature,

into

benefits.

mutual

of

37", Grenada

l*i
om

into

thrown

snow,

through

even

extremes

of

tropics,

can

boast

our

up

days'
by

the

hard

supplying

snows

heat, ascend,

Thus, under

snow.

labor.

Neveros,

or

latitude

variety of production,

every

rock-haunting lichen
were
rightglad to reach

of

of the

melting

the

We

summits.

of the

waters, rarified by the

condensed

are

creased
in-

"

The

rivers, whose

and

for

juxtaposition the one operating

tempering the other, receivingand repaying

and

upon

the blood-heat

and

snow

gives

pits of
the

are

if the

high

towering
or

St.

surrounded

are

depths, last

dog-star. Here

almost

brought

and

of

so

whiteness

Ventisqueros,

in unsunned

of

some

the

the

commence

Rocks
I doubt

rocks

these

black

their

to

struggle,was

mountain

shining

whose

snow,

an

below, but

the

"

not.

the

below,

before

; but

this spot,

hard

I know

ascended

ever

ing
left bloom-

dominion

Francisco

called

so

had

we

verdure

despotic above.

and

San

ains,
mount-

unreclaimed, irreclaimable

an

made, after

we

snows,

of the

gardens

divided

reigns supreme

The

of the

sterility
; below

savage

asserts

us

erra
Si-

the

emerald

an

terraced

earthlyparadise; above,
waste.

Vega

path-

glimmer,
of

tribute

gorge

fertility.Behind

abundant

us

the

diffusingupon

harsh

our

meeting

and

glen

every

We

ascent.

the terrible

see

is the

splendid pinnacles

toilsome

descending streams, carrying the

to

its

the

to

El

sugar-cane.

ary
Prevesin, the bound-

It is

stone

who
ice-sellers,

inclosure

nightly

424

DEIXKS

ascend

these

and

for the

night, as

raging

built it

no

by

other

place

above

been
we

obliged to

Pepe poured
a

soupgon

of the
as

and

mingling

"

guager,
clear

snow-

cause
rocks, be-

open

weariness.

ran

it

with

over

of

glow

feelingwhich

of the

some

cold

water,

some

drink.
crystal,bade me
from
immediately recovered

the

During

"

as

nectar, and

mind

we

than
glass a soupgon
yea, more
of 'aguardientedeFrancia, Cognac innocent

ice and

the

find

the

on

into

the

save

forespentwith fatigueand

were

tents

place to lay
should
inclosure,we

for this

lie down

tail
re-

Neveros

some

could

we

trade, to

pitched our

we

assured

mountain, where
heads.
Indeed, but

have

in

protection against

were

covered
our

as

; here

storms

we

was

DE1NKS.

for their stock

They

sudden

there

WERE

mountains

in Grenada.

met

AS

quaffed
tude.
lassi-

my

followed,my

happiest draughts

of my

previous experience. I recalled the Champagne, the

friend
Vieux
demiLausseure, which
Ceps of my
imbibe
wont
to
jrappee half-ice,
half-liquidI was
"

with

"

artist,Chester
the

of trout

Mountains

White

after

along
the

"

shared

with

the Defender

House

from

when

Springfield,and

Harding,

in search

miles

of

Ashmun

George

the

on

servant,

pouring

voice

look

might

inundate

don't

in old times

and
the

"

the

with

this

with
world

dwelt

on

in

the

these

he

!"

"

out," the

into his

water

with

Kemble

Volscian

the old
the

"

meats

Boy,

Madeira,

and

.1

as

drunk

removed

blazing hickory

radiatingheat

once

ington,
Wash-

exclaimed

the

at

Girard

from

Philip

friends,when

shut

the

at

ride

more

John

rebuked

brandy

old

capacious hearth

indulged

which

have

dozen

some

of the Saco

arrival

our

proportion admitted,

Coriolanus

banks

hot, dusty, exhausting

the

of

eminent

vivifyingpotation

glass than
and

walk

the

from

light,we
interchange of genial thoughts :
kindred
and
other
draughts of my
rosy

426

of

enjoyment
the

mighty
of

roar

BREAKING.

MOKNESTG

THE

The

scenery.

rivers,the jagged

hidden

pinnacles spoke livinglanguage

peopled

my

mind

thoughts, in

my

with
due

of these

They

found

underwood,

with

have

the

made

layas had

and

only by

kept

Picacho

made

we

uplifted
the

templation
con-

of

worship

that

that
the

Alpujarras.
mountain

of much

us.

must

old

ata-

again pouring

were

these

to

quantity of dry
bonfire

the Moors

dint

avail

much

the

of the ice-

some

suppose

the

the

dry

because

morn,

before

the

villagecock
we

sun.

It

was

heights;

wood

in Hudibras

that

we

Like
From

night

see

which

the

aspired

be

to

had

literal

beauty of

lobster boiled, the

black

to red

began

gradual change

the rosy

to

done

once

tation
saluon

the

opportunity

an

the

simile

"

I could

had

never

previouslyto appreciatethe

verified

to

redness
my

morn

to turn."

from

the

dark

color

of

that

precedes the risingsun ;

mind, in sparklingdistinctness,

poet's illustration.

There

moon-light; but
newly trimmed, for their lightburned
an

the

to

vast

air,upon

eager

before

rose

to

and

and

they

warm.

"We

the

of

was

from

Vega

an

was

heart ;

my

Previsin

collected

and
relit,

nipping and
it

at El

which

the

ble
inaccessi-

procession,from
works,

Grenadians

been

upon

of

assistance

out, and

went

down

order

pices,
preci-

himself!

Fortunatelywe
carriers,whose

to

imaginary beings ;

wondrous

great Architect

the

the

chasms,

was

shed
hour

no

upon
we

however,

our

stars

clear

and

seemed

bright,

sufficient distinctness.

pathway

struggled along
difficult foothold

the

on

among

our

horses, who
the loose

For

found,

stones

and

BAKITY

broken

"

rapid
in

dismounted

ascent

of

charge

with

the

that I should
the

in

lie down

to

; and

water

feet

soon

very

not

am

But

extreme

the

horse.

my

mouth

The

strain
of the

and

"

weak

some

of

position
dis-

toil and

extreme

Blanc

mountains," being only

sand
thou-

"the
itself,
feet

thousand

two

me

brandy

Picacho, thirteen

Mont

sea.

me,

Pepe encouraged

and

the

on

tain
cer-

affect

to

on

hours

two

stood

above

of

monarch

contest

The

soon

in the

while.

after

wTe
suffering,

some

This

back.

seated

animating expressions

with
and

turned

of blood

scent

for the

required produced a greater

atmosphere. I felt a sickness

now

stomach, and

animals

groom

attendants,I

my

more

for the fear of compromising

but

felt while

denser

our

became

stones

and

have

not

not

gi'eat exertion
than

into

atmosphere began

I had

which

and

positionwith

rarity of

left

we

manfully upward.

fatiguing;

my

so

converted

slipperyearth

and

severe

make

should

we

; and

nevero

walked

and

nonce,

427

ATMOSPHERE.

concluded

tillwe

path

THE

OF

higher.
top of the

The

ground

over

tremendous
this

reaches

is

Picacho

small

level

precipice. No

height
"

the hardiest

piece

life

or

of

tation
vege-

lichen withers

in the presicy atmosphere. I felt as if I were

ence
of the earlier days of creation,before the world

in

this

peopled,and

was

of the

deep

and

There

is

which

stars

loftiest

convey

but
no

still covered

thing appeared

religionanterior

by hands,

compared

darkness

so

the

face

in aspect, so

wan

cold.

the

overwhelms

made
The

every

"

desolate

while

but

before

soul

that
more

the

distance

creeds, a
these

sense

altars

of
not

image of eternity.
nothing when
true, are

in the

fashioned

elevations,it is

with

to

between

the

earth

and

the

of miles
millions
distance,in which
the ciphers
to the imagination than

428

THE

FROM

VIEW

PICACHO.

which

represent them, weighs

has

definite sense,

no

and

makes

the

however,

not

of

ascent

is the
it is of

In

of these

one

complishing,
ac-

earth

appropriated details,
the

mere

raised

are

physical greatness, composed

their individual grandeur, and
outline or unimpressive figures.

in

things Tare

We

of

test

true

representedby

not

It

general impression
deed,
grandeur, infinitely
heighten it : and this,in-

of solemn

as

mind.

impression.

no

have
o'er-gazingmountains, we
which, instead of detractingfrom

the

upon

above

the

pollution of earth,

morally as well as physically hi a purer atmosphere

by the separationnot only of distance,but of time and
"

"

labor

severe

heaven

and

"

undertake

not

of

this mountain
be

to

and

seen

the

at

they
But

far

ascending from
and

when

or

the

like
the
sun

of

domes
On

indistinct

an

far horizon

peaks

of

Castiles

of

from

spectacle

nessed
people have wittheir lives,
if only,

their return

home

from

this

on

summits

pinnacle I
of lesser

them.

above

with
as

cessories.
ac-

the

saw

ains
mount-

The

vapors

valleyslooked like floatingshrouds ;

the
threw
his dazzling beams
upon
like the

seemed

illuminated

towers

giganticedifices.
tremulous

even

the

islands

side I could

one

sunrise

It is

Most

I stood

while

peaks, they

snowy

tion,
situa-

our

be
imagine what it would
grandest objectsin nature

must

beneath, and

emerging

the

Nevada.

period

some

of the

the command

clouds

Sierra

Courtly, on

like Sir Harcourt

bah1 ; and

describe

to

described.

not

sunrise

to

to

mysterious, eternal.

serene,

I shall

seemingly nigh

partake of feelingsnatural

and

"

elevation

an

on

with
outline

the blue
the
of the

while, inland, the

countless
from

see

Sierras, that

Granada,

cut

the

of the

waters

iterranean,
Med-

morning breath;

and

in

the

African

sharp

coast

and

splintered

separate the

central

transparent sky.

Be-

ALMOST

ISABELLA

us, like

low

unrolled

an

streams,

diminished

and

sea,

the

the

the

Vega,

pierced with

silver threads

to

in the

cradled

capitalof

lie the

map,

and
shining villages,

with

429

TAKEN.

wrested

that Ferdinand

it safe to break

Indeed, all
beauty,
The
the

around

the

his

moment

royal word.

profuse in

scenes

the

by

natural

rich in story.

or

return

far

was

No

ascent.

tedious

more

hope buoyed
need

of any

absence

were

us

him

from

us

Orjiba,

Boabdil

to

of

between

Alpujarras,stood

treaty of Grenada, and

thought

net-work

; and

secured

kingdom

embossed

of

me

and

fatiguingthan

up;

and

exertion, the

from

the

seemed

path

measurably
im-

longer.
descending the mountain,

After

to alleviate

home,

Deflectingto
Zubia
rode

which, during the siege of Grenada, Isabella

to

"

take

to

of the

view

nearly taken.

visit ; and

stillpointed out

to

surrounded

watched

have
the

In

who

"

over

Homeric

her

ford,

stopped

came

San

upon

the

at

visible

charming

Rey

Chico

of Grenada.

The

"

alry
cav-

interposition
Achilles

been

in

captured.

she

erected

stillremains.
which

On

it is easy

to

beautiful

villageof Otrusca,

and

; and

shrubbery
of the

Xenil, we

and

Isabella

Ferdinand

Boabdil, the

pious acknowledgment

house

over

timely aid,

banks

tree

city

chronicles,to

have

stream

the

of Moorish

Minerva

as

Dilar,a
the

in

in monkish

such

cypresses

Sebastian, where
El

in

among

for the

herself

was

to

was

body

"

and

word

protectress, which

side of the

half-hidden

she

she would

"

of

the other
we

while

but

Isabella

narrative

to

sent

seems,

commemoration

hermitage

had

the tourist

it ; and

Virgin

Alhambra,

renegade

of the intended

of the

route

new

novelty of scenery.
passed through the villageof

left,we

the

the

fatigueby

our

took

we

under

day

which

of
mass

the

as

we

passed
panied
accomder
surren-

was

of this event, flourished

said,
till

430

RETURN.

within

it

had

times

our

unsympathizing
"

I,

on

of

the

with

of

mysteries

around

panorama

granaries

me

had

of

seen

"

than

of

partook

indeed,

surmounted,
while

real

had

penetrated

ever

thought

of

sublimity

greater
and,

before

and

the

scenery

diversified

more

above

the

food

of

all,
my

of
mind

my

had

"

for

the

some

filled

had

the

or

"

mountain

the

difficulties,

"

that

ideas

way

pleasant

privations,

than

seeming

the

very

cheerfully

immense.

was

two

The

of

part

privations,

difficulties

more

said

replied.

had

had

undertaking.

dangers

the

gratification
the

the

the

puerile,

bruised,"

or

and

miles,

But

notwithstanding

dangers

and

he

also,"

fifty

over

road.

hard

very

or

Alhambra.

the

and

rode

had

days,

were

of

gate
"

We

to

malicious

by

ground,

am

"

tambien

"Yyo

down

come

down

cut

Pepe
the

entered

as

been

not

have

might

persons.

molidO)

Soy

and

since,

century

after-life.

laid

up

CHAPTER

MENDICANCY

"

"

TUB

MAN

THE

MUCHACHA"

DOUBTLESS

Spain

the

free from

are

where

and

and

does

To
and

one,

of the

church

of your
and

the

when

the

have

his

follows

risingfrom

my

the

the

sturdy mendicants, demanding

them,

remove

long

time

for

they

are

knew

to

sacrifice of my

drive

of

of

been

the

away

other

the

its

time,
of

of

less
un-

policeto

while

secrets

bed,

them,

For

officious
a

cupancy
oc-

these

privilegednuisances.
as

bule
vesti-

menace

escape

call upon

not

The

your

Many

with

the

the

encountered

not

after I had

something

how

old

but

his to

altar.

alms

can

I got rid of them

I learned

That

can

you

by bribery ;
and

You

perseverance.

by
the

invades

knees, I have

rupted
inter-

outrage.

pulga

latter

to

you

ber
cham-

broken

upon

in

exposed

most

importunitiesto

the

"

HAG

places

devotions

your

slumbers

than

chamber

by flight,and

Few

those

of insult

more

former

constant

OLD

institutions

pulgas.

; and

your

confine

not

THE

"

greatest security,i. e., your

the

other, is the accumulation

beggar

FROLIC

CONTKABANDI8TA.

vexatious

most

church.

the

by

THE

"

intrusions

their

the

DANCE

two

BEGGAKS'

THE

"

THB

beggars

hope

you

CRUTCHES

'WTrn

the

are

XXXVI.

sion,
intru-

in Grenada,

the

trade,

professorswithout

purse.

age,

or

poverty,

made

many

doubtless

true

; and

natural

or
infirmity,

even

pardonable objects
could

real be

of

incurable

charity,is

separated from

simu-

432

MENDICANCY

it
destitution,

lated

But

give.

to

not

were

so

PROFESSION.

mendable,
only charitable,but comgreat is the proportion of

that almsgiving in this country is

imposition,
likelyto encourage
knavery than relieve unfeigned

successful
more

distress.
cities would

first

on

naturallysuppose

of its contents

emptied
and

loathsome

of

entering one

these

had

lazar-house

been
eased
dis-

apparently maimed,

so

the

are

of the

corner

every

stranger

crowds

he

plazas, in

streets, in the

at

encounters

the

trance
en-

shops,before the cafes and fondas, and,

always surrounding and
penetrating the churches.
of the

in most

But

blotches

and

vigor,health, and

cost

me

My

peseta, but when

many

to

does

always

valuable.
lastingly

guild,"I
day when

of the

obliged

was

indeed, one

; as,

really and

abundance.

before, I

I said

unnaturally distorted,

are

fabricated, and decrepiartistically

tude,
of
starvation, the cunning masks

sores

disease, and
As

limbs

the

cases

for

pay

this discovery

for all information

apprenticeshiphad
I had

become

free

"

begrudge the fees of initiation.

One
complainingto Pepe of these annoying
time
importunities,while sympathizing at the same

with

the

direful

palliatedthem,
and
the

did not

extremities

he

objects deserved

expressed some

he

would

of

his

member
of

whom

money

the
would

commiseration,

had

certain

belonged

"

certain

club

noble

Vivarambla,
me

and
there

to

or

of

scarcelyone
needed
he

money.
told

of the

me,

truth

societyof mendicants,
"

that

veins, and

accompany
very

instant.

an
a

all

many,

beat," he said, was

if I would
on

pathies
sym-

"

in their

His

my

acquaintance of his
the fraternity. He was

or

blood

in their purses.

take

as

demonstration

ocular

me

remarks.

of

wasted,

were

both

incredulity,
whereupon

give

hidalgo withal

suffeiingthat greatly

laughingly repliedthat

purse

my

of

upon

him,

he

I cheer-

434

MASQUERADING.

Carlos," said Pepe,

"

satisfaction.

expressed equal

tenances

Well,

Don

he

ranged
rejoined me, "I have arit all rightfor you."
Arranged what, Pepe ?"
the
Oh, there is to be a great fiesta to night among
as

"

"

give

to

but

us

chachas

"

there

But

"

be ?"

is

chief

some

before."

inn-

Seen

"

Don

be

danger,Pepe

Are

no

these

Xot

the

persons

and

them,

among

will go,

Dios

hidalgo?

"

least," repliedPepe,

we

si

be, too,

Paciencia, Senor

not

and

something,

you

seen

A
safetya fe de caballero.
observed."
be more
religiously

your

friend

my

sabe ?

gente among

though they
friend

Quien

will

have

you

will there

mala

no

my

"

?"

where, Pepe

persuaded

It will cost

sport. There

see

present whom

Carlos."

I have

invitation.

an

will

you

"

club, and

of the

members

he guarantee?

king's pledge would

Vamonos, Pepe,
"

will

quiere, we

have

some

sport."
then

Pepe

went

his friend

was

bien, and

de

that

to

the

as

long as

I remained

the

scenes

in

blood.

noble

To

these

giving Pepe

my

"

mendicant,

inviolable

he had

evening

as

senoras,

night so

also promised

(fivedollars)
I should

that
and

right hand,

their

became

after

the

treat

I hastened

conditions

told

hotnbre

an

my

duros

cinco

the

particularlythe

company,

That

had

of the

adventures

contribute

disguiseof

the

American,

an

Spain.
of

that he

me

guaranteed

or

entertainment
in

come

had

he

that I should
to

stranger,

secresy

inform

to

on

to

scribe,
sub-

antique

the

manner.

The

night

bundle

he

of clothes
"

me.

Since

said,

iume
assume

under

be

rigeur.

But

was

with
his

it

far from

Pepe.
with

arm

only going

was

it would

"

de

and

came,

as

unnecessary

He
which

brought
he

to

dress

indued

beggar,"

amateur

an

me

in

cos*

obliged to
disguise I was
becoming ; and, seeing that I did
the

THE

not

affect

it

he

could

while

FEAST

OF

he

told

much,

435

BEGGABS.

for

me

help laughing at the bizarre

presented, "that while the rules of

not

society required

all membei'S

to

professionalattire (thebetter
they passed through the street),
any
take

dress

her

or

majo

my
in

after

which

Avould

I did
The

fiesta

on

of

member

thing

before

them

friend

his

told

had

country
"

de los

was

yet exaggerated by him

confreres.

produced
the

For

the

general

"

said

one

;
"

another.
see

you,"
But

Shanter

Como
You

burst

what

estct
are

out
a

very

from

party

looking in

upon

To
"

indulged
have

Don

had
the

his

I found

great surprise
action

an

of

"

been

with

room

my

me.

own

country.

communication

welcome.
many

pected
ex-

Unidos

had

the

not

But

Buenas

Carlos
We

in

country

embarrassed.

Senor

upon

in my

other

any

custom

reassured

kindly greetingsoon

in

was

my

friend,must

me

somewhat

he

any

come

man

.entered the

receive

to

I felt indeed

his
in

to

Pepe

sensation.

arose

with
and

when

marked

company

than

which

with

than

de los Estados

ricos

with

ponderagion,
concerning my status

though

willingacquiescence."
great

Spain more

The

"

communicated

their

mas

wish

not

had

that

that I liked

and

did

secured
"

him

uno

"

he

Albay-

know

supposed to
proceedings. Pepe said

arrival,and
He

in the

purpose,
individual
other

no

pliment."
com-

his advice.

society wras

go, because

to

ance
appear-

for the

engaged
for

my

house

as

better

national

follow

to

off in

as

in

change

that I had

purpose,

received

come

pretext

their

about

hurry

no

to

the

that

hesitate

been

different

be

not

was

had

cin which

for

the

notice

could

one

pearance
ap-

leave

avoid

to

arrival ; and

costume

and

come

their

his

consolation,

my

.?"
are

cordance
ac-

"

their

tardes"

inquired
glad

to

quarters.
fallen
dance

among!
at

Bark

Tarn

o'

Alloway

436

THE

hardlyhave

could

of the crutch

table in

who

glazed

and

the

wore

it

fresh

"

?"

corpse

He

you.

part of

is

loco

un

him

up in

and

let him

insane

mad-house

countenance

de

amor

Carlos.

had

they

and

were

eyes

horrible

Dios

will

who

the

women

Withered

hear
over-

does

relatives

will

you

it.

squandered

the
shut

him

see

He

day

any

if possible,
stillmore

were,

is

near

repulsive.

beldames, toothless, blear-eyed,paralytic;

grinningghastlysmiles,making strange gestures,

unintelligible
jargon, and yet, horrible
the air
affecting
disgustingthan

and

Job, approached

me,

I made

of young

manners

the

and

attempted

relate !

to

girls.One

rest, all covered

with

tering
chat-

more

like

sores

endearments.

some

desperate bolt and gained Pepe's side : "Take

!"
of this." I shouted, or I shall go mad
"_Po-

out

"

ciencia, Don
devil is not
take

Is

cathedral."

But

me

"

object?

They

whose

person,

on

up

get possessionof his property,

to

when

out

His

respectablegentleman

a
an

"

Don

Hush,

others

stuck

his whole

is that

who

when

as

haggard object

"jPor

friend

were

was

tomb.

the grave.

perfectlyharmless,
the

the

and
expressionless,

sake, Pepe,

there

him

near

from

and

leglessman

and

corner,

liveryof

for God's

he.

garments

same

Vivarambla,

than

seemed

stranger sight. My

in the

here

in the

one

BELDAMKS.

viewed

was

hideous

more
a

him

met

we

WITHERED

so

Carlos," he

laughingly replied.

black

is

as

he

Let

painted.

us

"The

go

and

Whereupon
copita^and you will feel better."
we
a table
passed into an adjoiningroom, in which was
spread with ices,sweatmeats, coffee,and wine, the product,
a

Pepe said, of
half

some

clouds
my

of

dozen

smoke.

contribution.

venerable

They

told me,

were

Here

mendicants
a

kind

of

we

found

compelling
Sandhedrim,

supervisingthe societyand its

with all the Spanish
me
Pepe introduced

companion

treasurers.

my

THE

PROVIDES

CE

grandiloquence,which
I

down

sat

discoursed

with

their

upon

if

as

they

indifferent

propose," said

health

of

dismal

my

for four
had
to

the

days, had

died
the

I met

when

had

who

stabled

office.

in silence.

the theater
in my

leg

keep
"We

this occasion

on

the purse

approved

of the

alms

soberer

which

play
to

But

overtake

had

to

amiga, and

enhanced

the

be

the

pick
he

him, the

one

formed,
per-

it up

and

entered

swelling

visiblyincreased,
I shall

cdballero^

drank

in

the
a

vain

health

party of
obtained

from

their

had

accompanied a
Ms
hoped to meet

man

he

service

me

ground

had

dining,and

solicited

un-

ticket-

to

encountered

been

where

house

Frenchman

to

the

near

scarcelyhobble.

had

had

not

the

was

fall upon

stooped

I could

disposition.And
a

before

determination, and

he

the

die,

spared

passing

subsiding had

roisterers,
just as they
an

has

was

owner.

Another

caballero.

and

the pesetas tillI find the

and
his

what

I could

far from

so

good spirits.

I have

"

Providence

see

hand.

before

or

than

more

down

eye,

assembled

it to the proper

return

in

were

lay me

something

cabattero"s

been

"

of the

As

to

observed

had

sympathy,

"

crowd

Approaching

of my

angel and relieved him of

repaid in glory." We all drank
As for myself,"said another

woes.

check

no

long gray beard,

who
opened his purse

to

to-day.

of my
saw

I
from

church

he be

horse

my

theater, I

my

roguish twinkle

the relation

and

the

seemed

keeping the strictest Lent

sole nieto (grandson)who
drawn
totteringlimbs
my

had

this mundane

this sentiment

to

buried

pesetas. May

two

been

famishing,and

portal of

cigarito,and

of their adventures

day, they

with

I had

offered

they

Christian

pious

tale.

the

talked

As

this
one

correspondingreturn.

certain

it.

437

POOK.

presence

were

to

ordinarilysuccessful
"

My

them.

garrulity. They

and
freely,

wholly

with

met

them, took

among

THE

OF

as

our

coachmen

do,

438

SPRING

by taking a

devious

had

with

but

met

Half

hour

an

that I should
would

or

should

as

to

me

and

kind

former

him.

But

lame, the cadaverous,

of

of winter.

were

the

"

their

but

girlsin

majo

I noticed

whose

countenance

eyes whenever
So

with

room,

It may

her.

as

the

blood

for
"

Amiga

the
"

to

she

last time
the best

go

said

you
of my

of

pany
accom-

necessity,

the villainous

filled with

was

The

rub

to

smart-

change

was

climates

from
freshness,
my

illusion.

home

But

the

the torpor

eyes

one

that

there

they

filled with

indulged

admiration;
smile

better
me."

is

"

recollection

in

the

whose

cided
de-

some

knows

prodigalof

fection;
af-

little malicious:

pleasedwith
Hij a mia,"
and

to

tion
conversa-

body

every

tongue

my

laughter.

got deep in

soon

on

expressionof

the

mischief,and

were

be that

with

put

toilet,I returned
corner,

the

"KTo, Pepe;

rags, and

full of

and

seem
saw

now?"

my

mine,

warms

mio, you

minutes,

then

virtue

vented.
pre-

in
bdsquinas^ and the men
Carlos," inquired
"Well, Don

seemed

the

be

five

in northern

no

girlin

expressions of
that

room

after my

they met

I crossed

was

indeed

would

departure

diseased,with

get rid of

When,

room,

said my

their nice

like to

dress."

the

ready to

you

I would

the

obliged

was

there

sure

"are

and

emphatically

! The
awaited
me
surprise
had all disappeared the

all its joyous

holiday clothes.

Pepe,

He

had

we

"

complete, as

spring,in

be

room

told him

pretty muchachas.

and

might

agreeably passed,
the

to

home.

room

now

and

sudden

burst

And

hags.

looking men
as

return

what

occupants of the

old

thus

quarters. I made

our

followed

iisual luck.

he
leave-taking,

indeed

them

among

insult,and might
remain
go in,and

an

of

one

relucted,and

If I would

just for

WINTER.

being

more

prefergoing

taken

be

than

more

at this I

But

No

route.

Pepe proposed we
left.

FROM

BURSTING

belief

I
I

me

than

replied
"

never

saw

till this

you
"

you

blessed

thought

from

strong feelingfor
And

then

the

assume

with
"

seat.

Her

began

/"
and

silverylaugh
This

littlewhile

and

Yes,

I had

her

sprung

it is

"
"

hag

repulsedwith

fairy.

"

Do

deem

not

much

disgust!
Arabian

"

suppose," she said, that the disguiseof

"

and

mother

it is for them
you

hour
the

I looked

gatheringtears, I

confess

I trust

I may

upon,

heart, with

the

all but

; and

be

eyes, and

down

came

Errors

forgiven!

elect,are

as

venial

self,
myan
saw

If I

is

who

exertion

into her

is

I could

My dear child,I thought to

much
as
as
acting now
you were

when
still,

as

part I

beg."

be

may

since ;

imposed
the

incapable of

is

who

me

beggar

The
assumed, or for a selfish purpose.
willingly
perform is a fictitious one
poverty is real.
my
bear it alone
unrepiningly; but I have a father
blind

into

cat

harshly of

so

"

to

pletely
com-

advances

"

beautiful

ment
enjoy-

been

whose
so

from

up

her

I had

"

and

impossible!"

attested

indeed

mendicant,

Nothing seemed
stranger in any tale of the
the metamorphosis of the
Jsights" not even
a

"

tion."
admira-

words,

air of the

the veritable

was

before

mumble

to

sparklingeye

amazement.

done.

exactly of

not

exclaimed

she

says

entertained

you

suspicion,I

sudden

Dios

of my

she

whine
professional

struck
till,
my

manner

though

"

!"

deeper impression upon

no

your

me

What

"

made

439

HAG.

moment."

possibleI

is it

and

OF

LOVE

was

of

those

as

of the will.
After

this

surpriseI

of the crutches
any

thing

it

going
than

more

was

on

prepared
the

to

see

my

lightfantastic

slightastonishment,

"

when

friend
nor

felt

Pepe

pointed out a black-haired,black-whiskered,handsome

I had
fellow,of some
thirtyyears, as the person whom
supposed they
A
was

merrier

had

borrowed

party I did

introduced,and

from

some

in

charnel

Spain. The
admirably managed by him
not

meet

house.

guitar
of the

440

THE

crutches.

with

allowed

; and

She

court.

and

manner

hidalgo,and, of
might have been

an

he

; and

the necessities
to offend

rich.

of her

proud

often

as

les

as

dancing paid

not

brilliant,
enjoue

could
He

stoop

her

and,

"

trade

no

she must

parents, but
a

of noble
possessor

to

in

ply
supnot

manner

ing
bless-

compensatory

blood

be, since

must

the lowest

to

only

not

or

"

honor
to dis-

preferredbeggary

herself,why

this consciousness
its

when

prejudices.What

their

reconciles

fair friend

my

gay,

course,

for

as

was

IT.

licacy
equivocal position,of great despeech. Her father,she said,was

notwithstanding her
in

GOING

I danced

convenances

assiduous

MUCHACHA

it

of degradation

state

!
After

body
and

while

was

the

on

much

told

"

me

and

Two

disposed to

the

furious.

be very

they

Every

copitas put life

of the

occasions

what

on

fast and

floor at once,

in their heels.

mettle
very

me

the fun became

muchachas

came
be-

confidential
had

met

with
fore
be-

me

in their

disguiseas viejas (oldwomen), and their

successful appeals for charity; and other
thingswhich
retained
within
their own
they might as weh1 have
Toward
breasts.
midnight they drew the table with
all the
of

into the

glasseson

these

muchachas

middle

making

of the

floor,and

step of

one

man's

some

it.
Ole ! ole /" every body
hand, lightly
sprung
upon
a
shouted, and the girl commenced
dancing "with
"

will."
their
But

The

the
at
same
glasses danced
fine accompaniment
to
a
ring was

so

skillful was

steps,that

glass
"

she

feat I could

her

with

copitas.

dress.
our

girlin
struck

neither

is true, the table

hooped

the

was

have

not
a

the
nor

the

and

guitar.

greatest fury of her

overthrew

believed

large one,

time,

and

single
practicable.It

she

wore

an

un-

accomplished,we surrounded
and
congratulations,
pledged her in our
The

task

442

articles

indispensable
dista,)

He

and

silver

padre,
laces
could

be

But

man

not

is

the

girls,

like

and

resumed

their

their

favored

of

partner

the

Beggar's
I

more

would

there

On
is

the
more

so

facile.

there

are

manifest

to

The

blessed

to

approbation,

At

their

not

dresses
ways,
the

promised

into

shall

midnight

several

had

again

fear

of

alms.
best

give

but

next

thin

ing
morn-

air.

saw

her

forget

soon

few
the

of

among

where

in

where

or

makes

always

of

charity

is

the

Spain.

tion,
destitu-

imitation

therefore,
"

that

poverty

incontrovertible

Give

receive.

idea

charity

countries

imposition,

to

the

convey

every

senses,

our

part
than

to

encounter

we

Indeed,

hand.

cessful
Suc-

spangled

went

objects

sincere.

our

their

vow

deserving

contrary,

withhold

-admired.

thing.

off

the
I

what

person

certain

every

her

but

and

profession.

understood

beggars

The

his

ribbons

crowd

rather
a

see

to

be

no

countless

the

to

news

factor.
bene-

Fiesta.

not

are

such

attendants.

forever

no

in

They

dissipated

her

such

put

rags.

dance

Phoebus

Against

to

Cinderella,

my

escribano,

in

end

an

latest

the

and

contraban-

national

the

meets

hero

and

envy,

always

was

there

with

to

did

audacity
this

cigars

pretensions,

my

However,

and

tea

muchachas.

the

to

the

as

upon

good

brings

CHARITY.

monopolized,

are

is looked

smuggler,

or

OF

PHILOSOPHY

THE

more

should

give

with

ours

for

the
it is

not

ready
more

CHAPTER

SYMPATHY

WITH

LIFE

TRADITIONS

PECULIAR

"

of

the

Moors

the

mind

the

the

soft

in

belief

and

poetic

in the

stitions
super-

thing respires

every

impressed

fancies

Spain, I

and

where

the

deeply

most

fervid

ment.
tempera-

of the

atmosphere predisposes
to a dreamy voluptuousness where, on
ence,
indulgideal seems
the breathing form of
to assume
languor

actual.

the

Most

current

traditions
the

held

and

most

one

that,

is the

gates of the

of the

rest

year

Boabdil

dressed

cymbal
the

banner
cavaliers
and

and

and
and

and

how, belated

on

and

has

pennon

seen

mountains
the

of St.

eve

popular

John,

in

Moorish

with

are
an

many

richly
with

armor,

of war,

glories. And

countenance

the

retinue

gallant
pomp

locks
un-

wherein

equipage, with

former

horror-stricken

all the

forth

them

all the

peasant with

night, he

his

knights

of

cave,

gorgeous

of their

the

the

on

sends

trumpet,

scenes

earnest

subterranean

enthralled, and

emblazoned

of

DEPARTURE.

Particularly in Grenada,

soil their

The

MY

"

SPANISH

OF

longer

For

lingered longest,

upon

with

peasantry.

there.

romance

much

infected

become

LIVING

OF

remained

FRESHNESS

"

CHEAPNESS

"

if I had

have

SUPERSTITIONS

AND

INSTITUTIONS

BELIEVE

should

XXXVII.

to

visit
re-

many

will tell you

past the witching hour

gorgeous

displayed,sweep

cavalcade, with
down

the

ner
ban-

mountain-

444

I'KCULIAK

side.

Other

hardly
superstitions

equal credence, and

these

from

sympathy

entertainment,and
the

the

engross

less

of

eve

then

St. John

of both

multitude

Beside

the

the

Sierra

I too

sexes,

for the

prepared

them

believed

at first

partialcredence.

on

Had

del

should

and

have

in,

ready

passed

Sol, with

the

fully

been

pageantry of the Moorish

popular traditions

Hearing

ear.

mostly

accord

to

romantic, gain

popular

and findingthem
continually,

begin

you

INSTITUTIONS.

king.

legends,the

novel

and
national
toms
cuspicturesqueindividuality,
in Paris we
impress a stranger deeply. Xow
find every thing better than any where
else
but little
The
or
nothing to which we have been unaccustomed.
difference
of kind, but degree. In Spain,
is not
one
manners,

"

the

on

peculiar. There
and

costumes,

habits

previously seen
after
a

desire

to

liked

the
the

; these

had

affect

Indeed,

I feel

Andalusias

than

I liked

the

the

corridas

de

/ I liked

podrida

ciance, the devil-may-caresort of habits

any

I liked

experience.

bailes ;
olla

much

we

reluctance.

revisit the

I have

I liked

; I

of

fresh,original,

as

us

spectaclesand institutions,
different from
all we
had
life,

quitwith

country of which

people;

are

strikes

understood

or

while, and

greater

toros

thing

contrary, every

the
I

insoit-

liked

the

mcrjos,contrabandistas,and picaros generally.Indeed,

I liked every thing but the pulgas.

Living

in the

the

board

hotels
"

per

dollar and

ordinaire
is

Andalusias

good,

for your
and

the

The
on

is

only

half; and
dinner

as

cooking not

It is unnecessary,
of
agreeabilities

day

is not

At

and

seven

this includes
wish.

you

the best
half pesetas
much

vin

The

table

too

dwell

upon

the

as

indifferent.

however, for
a

dear.

sojourn in

me

these

previous pages have revealed

the subject. Nothing, indeed,

to

favored

in full my
could

have

regions.
sentiments

prevailed

me

that

hope

took

the

city

Lyons,

quietly

of

in

grateful

speedy

of

home
all

and

of

for

Malaga

at

In

return.

speedily

and

and

crossing

souvenir*.

THE

the

in

END.

olden

my

the

in

time,

Barcelona,

at

at

late

Marseilles,

Cid,

arrived

".-

famous

the

Spain

-";:

Carthagena,

at

the

of

Lope

steamer

busiest

full

Valencia,

the

live.

still

stopping

June,
at,

but

leave

to

upon

445

EVACUATED.

SPAIN

Gulf

destination,

the
of

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