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FLYING DUTCHMAN

By Gerald Taylor White

Design by Westlawn Associates. Naval Architects

I F FLYING DUTCHMAN were a new and untried type of boat, you would be

entitled to look at her plans and remark, "She looks wonderful on paper, but it is all too good to be true." For where else can you find a boat of this length that has a huge forecastle, an enclosed toilet room, a good galley, and two full-length berths, to say nothing of as much deck room as on the average 30-footer?

FLYING DUTCHMAN is the latest of the GREY DAWN designs. The basic hull lines were developed in Holland centuries ago and boats of this type have been used ever since in both the shoal waters of the Zuyder Zee and the vicious waters of the North Sea. The first of these Dutchmen to be designed in this country was GREY DAWN II. She was built over 20 years ago and is still afloat. During her two-

score-and-more years she has cruised the East Coast from Maine to the Carribbean, and her owner would have sailed her across to Europe had it not been for the war. She is a 37-footer. Scores of duplicates have been built and are now in service on both coasts, the Gulf, and the Great Lakes. Yachtsmen who saw the 37-footer wanted a smaller edition; so a 29-footer was designed. Again the boat out-per- formed all expectations. The next was a 22- footer, the prototype of FLYING DUTCH- MAN. In this, the most recent of the designs, the original lines have been kept without a single deviation—wise men do not gamble with perfection. Some changes, based on previous experiences, have been made in the deck and cabin arrangements. Here is an auxiliary that—for a boat of her size—is extremely easy to build. There

deck and cabin arrangements. Here is an auxiliary that—for a boat of her size—is extremely easy

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are no steam-bent frames, no cross-bend- ing of parts. Some of the planks and the chines and clamps will be too stiff to go in cold. Wrap them with old rags or sacking and provide a supply of boiling water to be poured on the rags as the clamp screws are gradually tightened. She isn't a light little plaything, she is all boat; and, if built according to the plans and specifica- tions, should last for at least 25 years. All of you may not be technically in- clined, but to really appreciate the virtues of the boat, it may be worthwhile to con- sider for a few minutes some of the mathe- matical aspects of the design. Unlike most boats, her center of buoyancy is closer to the midship section than to the next station aft. This is an ideal situation if the entire underbody can be properly balanced. If you will look at the drawing entitled Lines and Offsets, you will see a dotted line marked Curve of Areas. The shape of that line

indicates the path of the water around and under the hull. Note that the forward and after ends of that curve are almost identi- cal. In a motorboat, that would be fatal to speed; in a sailing craft, it is ideal from both the speed and rough-water angles. If the lines of FLYING DUTCHMAN could be compared with any American type,

it would be the Down-East dory. But the

dory is known for its lack of stability, while the GREY DAWN type is famed for

exactly the opposite. The answer lies in the way the hull is balanced. Look at the Curve of Righting Arms on the Accommo- dation Plan. It represents the inherent power in the hull that causes it to return to an even keel. Many sailing boats have

a curve that reaches its peak at about 30°

an d the n falls off sharply . You wil l not e

that the stabilizing effect of this hull shape is still going upwards at even 40°. At any such angle, the deck edge would be way

hull shape is still going upwards at even 40°. At any such angle, the deck edge

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Mechanix

Illustrated

under water. In other words, a careless skipper could actually sail the boat under water

under water. In other words, a careless skipper could actually sail the boat under water but she would still be struggling to right herself. In rough water, her widely flaring sides lift her up and over the seas instead of plunging through them. It would be severe weather indeed to cause this boat to drive her bow under. This is what designers call abnormally high reserve buoyancy. She is at her best with the wind abeam or slightly forward or aft of that point. Going to windward, she will point up surpris- ingly well—as a stunt, a sister ship was sailed dead to windward, tacking up a channel 100 ft. in width—but her worst point of sailing is going dead before the wind, especially when running into rough water. Her bows are a bit bluff for this sort of work; so she will carry a heavy bow wave. The wise skipper will soon learn this and won't sail a direct down- wind course. The power plant shown is a Universal 8-hp. Fisherman. Any small engine of about the same power will do providing that it doesn't turn over 1,500 r.p.m. Don't expect a little high-speed engine, turning a 10-in. propeller, to be sufficient. It is not the amount of power, but the combination of power and relatively low revolutions. If you must get a high-speed engine, it will have to have a reduction gear, for FLYING DUTCHMAN needs a propeller at least 14 in. in diameter, and 16 in. would be better yet. Like many successful auxiliaries, the engine is installed so th e propelle r is off center. Thus the natural tendency of a boat to be throw n off he r cours e du e to whee l torque is counteracted. This would not apply to the average motorboat as the area of lateral plane is much less and you would have steering troubles. Make up your mind to one thing before you build her—that you will not change a single line. Years of experience went into her design. The construction, shapes, lo- cations of weights, and all other factors are correct the way they are shown. If you attempt to change any measurements, alter the rig, or monkey with weights, the

result will probably be a total waste of your time and money. FLYING DUTCHMAN is timed-tried, comfortable, reasonably fast, and built to last many, many years. Can you ask for more in any boat?

SPECIFICATIONS

Length Over All Length Waterline Beam, Extreme Beam, Waterline Draft, Board Up Draft, Board Down
Length Over All
Length Waterline
Beam, Extreme
Beam, Waterline
Draft, Board Up
Draft, Board Down
22 ft.
0
in.
18 ft.
9
in.
9
ft.
5.5
in.
7
ft.
9
in.
20.5
in.
4
ft.
0
in.

General. The objects of these specifica- tions are to help in explaining the drawings and to specify certain materials and sizes. In every case, dimensions mentioned in these specifications should be considered as authentic, even if the plans do not scale the same exact size. Lettered dimensions on the drawings should be taken in preference to scaling. Laying Down. To insure accuracy, it is highly advisable to lay down the set of lines full size on the shop floor. This is be- cause a variation of only the thickness of a line on the drawing will make a differ- ence in the full-size boat. Only when it is impossible to obtain a smooth, level floor upon which the lines may be laid down should the frames be made directly from the Table of Offsets. Note that the offsets extend to the outside of the planking and the decking and that the frames fit to the inside of planking and decking; therefore the thickness of planking and decking must be deducted when the frames are made. Keel. White oak, 4 in. thick, built as shown in detail drawing. Note that to save lumber there is a piece of triangular dead- wood aft and a similar piece forward. The keel is slotted for the centerboard from a point 7 in. forward of Station 4 to a point 1 in. abaft Station 7. This slot is 1-1/2in. wide. The fastenings for the keel and its parts are 3/8-in. through or drift bolts, as indicated on the drawing. The surfaces of all joints must be well covered with non-

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hardening marine glue or white lead before being drawn together. Stem. White oak, sided 4 in., molded

6 in., arranged as shown and extended far

enough above the rail line so it can be fin- ishe d off with th e ornamenta l curve . Below

th e clipper stem it is faced off to a widt h of 3/4 in., but in way of the clipper stem, facing off should be left unti l tha t piece is in place. The entire stem is rabbetted for the planking. Clipper Stem. White oak, preferably a grown knee, 2-1/2 ". thick where it joins the stem and tapered to 1-1/4". thick at the forward upper point and, gradually, to 3/4 in. thick at the forward lower point. Stem Knee. White oak, sided 3 in. and molded about as shown. You can get slightly more room in the forepeak and use shorter bolts if you curve the upper portion of the stem knee, although it in- volves more work. Stern Post. White oak, sided 4 in., molded

4 in., and notched for the l-1/4 ". transom. Stopwaters. Half-inch white-pine stop-

waters are driven where indicated, there being two forward and one just forward of Station 2. Transom. White oak, 1-1/4 " thick, in as wide boards as possible. If made of marine plywood, it can be 1 in. thick. Note that the notch in the stern post must be the same thickness as the transom. If made of boards, the seams run horizontally and are backed by 7/8x2-in. screw-fastened cleats. The forward face of the transom is finished off wit h 7/8x2-in . white-oa k screw-fastened cleats to form an extra backing for the planking. If a plywood stern is used, the cleats should be flush with the edges of the transom. An alterna- tive method when the transom is made of oak boards is to have the cleats 1-1/4 in. thick and to set them in the thickness of the planking from the edges of the transom. In this case, the plank ends butt against the transom and great care must be taken to apply plenty of marine glue between the cleats and the transom. [Continued on page 128]

to apply plenty of marine glue between the cleats and the transom. [Continued on page 128]

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Mechanix Illustrated

Flying Dutchman

[Continued from page 108]

Centerbaard Head Ledges. White oak,

2-1/2x3-1/2".,withthelargerdimensionrunning

athwartships. At the bottom, each head ledge is notched to a thickness of1-1/2in.so it can be slipped down into the centerboard slot. Plenty of marine glue should be applied at this point and, when in place, two bolts should pass en- tirely through the keel and each head ledge. Both head ledges are long enough to extend to the cabin roof, the forward one helping to sup- port the roof beam at about Station 7 and the after one being beneath a block of white oak spanning two of the roof beams, as shown. Great care must be taken that these head ledges are square with the waterline in both directions. CenterboardTrunk Logs. White oak, 2x6 in. Along each upper inner edge there is a lxl-in. rabbet facing the slot. They are also rabbetted at the ends, around the head ledges, to which they are bolted. The distance be- tween the trunk logs is equal to the width of the slot. These logs must through-bolt in the rabbet all the way down to the bottom of the keel, there being not less than five bolts in each of the logs. The trunk sides are made of two layers of 1-in. white oak, the inner layer being screwed into the trunk-log rabbet after plenty of marine glue is applied. Use l-3/4 -in. No. 12 screws, spaced not more than 3 in. apart. The outer layer is of similar ma- terial, but arranged so the seams of the two layers are staggered. Plenty of glue or white lead must be applied between the layers. The two layers are fastened together along the seams with 1-3/4-in. No. 9 screws, spaced no more than 4 in. apart. The trunk sides are built up to a total height of 34 in. above the keel. Great care must be exercised in the con- struction of this trunk to make it tight and strong. Bitts. There is a main mooring bitt, 4x4 in., of white oak or locust, located as shown. mortised into the stem knee, and fastened there with not less than two drift bolts. This bitt extends 9 in. above the forward decking ' and is fitted with a 1-in. bronze pin approxi- mately 9 in. long. Above deck, the bitt is neatly beveled off. Aft, there are two additional bitts extending from the bottom of the boat up the face of the transom and for a distance of 15 in. above the rail line. These are of white oak or locust, 3x3 in., spaced 22 in. apart and thoroughly secured to the transom with 1/4 " bolts. At their top is a 1-in. bronze rod to be used as a traveller. This rod is approximately 30 in. long and is pinned to prevent it from shifting from side to side.

Mast Step. White oak, 4x4 in., notched over three frames, as shown, and secured to those frames with 1/4x8-in., drift bolts. A square hole, 3 in. fore and aft by 1-1/4 ", is cut in the step to receive the heel of the mast. Bottom Frames. White oak, 7/8x4 in. One frame is placed on each Station, as provided by the Offset Table, and there is one addi- tional frame at each Half Station. There is also one extra bottom frame at the after side of th e after hea d ledge. Two feet off th e cen - terline, each of these frames has a 3/4x2-in. limber hole. This distance cannot be main- tained forward of Station 7, where the limber holes will have to be alongside the keel batten and triangular in form, as shown on Sections 8 and 9. Each bottom frame fastens through the keel with a 1/4-in. through bolt. Note that the bottom frames fall on the after sides of the station marks. Side Frames. White oak, 7/8x3"., located on the forward sides of the station marks. These frames should extend quite a distance above the main sheer, as the rail frames are attached to them. At the chine, the side and bottom frames are notched for the chine and are fastened together with three 1/4-in. bolts. The rail frames are the same size as the side frames and are on the after sides of the side frames, fastening to each with three 1/4" bolts. These frames project an inch or so above the rail line and can later be cut. The three frames at Stations 9,9-1/2,and 10 have extra floor timbers, the same size as the bottom frames, extending across the top of the stem knee and fastening with two bolts to each side frame.

Keel Battens. Between each bottom frame, except in way of the centerboard trunk, there is a white-oak keel batten, 1-1/4x6 in. This 6-in. measurement is net and even an addi- tional width will do no harm. Each keel batten fastens to the keel with not less than three 3-in. galvanized boat nails driven at slight angles. The joint between batten and keel must be coated with marine glue or white lead. Chine. There are two chines, an inner and outer one, both being1-1/4x2-1/2"white oak, preferably in single lengths. The outer one fits into the frame notches, boxes into the stem and transom cleats, and fastens to each frame with at least one 2-in. boat nail. The inner chine is bent at the intersection of side and bottom frames an d mus t be beveled off on the bottom to form a good brace for the frame laps. Better than beveling would be to notch the underside of the chine across each of the [Continued on page 130]

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Flying Dutchman

[Continued from page 128]

bottom frames. Fasten with one boat nail into each side and bottom frame. Main Clamps. Longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x 2-1/2",, in single lengths if possible, fastened to each side frame with two galvanized boat nails and boxed into the transom cleats. It is important that the clamps be located in the proper position below the sheer line so the deck beams can rest upon them and the top of the decking come exactly on the main sheer line. Main Deck Beams. 7/8X2-1/2 ", cut to a camber of 19 ft. 6 in. There is one extra deck beam as a filler between the bulkhead and the regular beam on Station 8. In -way of the hatch above the forepeak, the beam on Sta- tion 9 is cut as shown and the hatch framed up with fore-and-aft carlings the same size as the beams. Deck beams from Stations 3-1/2 to 7 are installed on the forward sides of the side frames, being screwed or bolted to the heads of the side frames. In way of the cabin, there are short beams extending to a point 2 ft. 10 in. from the centerline of the boat and resting upon l-1/4x3-in. carlings firmly attached to the bulkheads at Stations 3 and 8. Cockpit Deck Beams. Same size as main deck beams, but cut to no camber. Bolt to the after side of each frame and locate so the cockpit decking will be 9 in. above the water- line or 3 ft. above the base line. In way of the engine box, a hatch is framed up. It is suggested that the engine be installed at about this time so the size of the hatch can be made to suit the machine installed, making sure to provide plenty of space for working around the engine and reaching into the storage space under the cockpit deck. It is advisable to place a post on the centerline from each of the cock- pit beams down to the keel to keep the deck from sagging.

Mast Partners And Fillers. In way of the mast and for the entire distance from it to the stem there are 2-in. fillers of scrap wood to provide a firm foundation for the mast wedges and the bitt. Breasthook.1-1/4in. thick, in the form of a triangle, filling in between the forward ends of the clamps and the stem. Should be well fastened through the clamps and also to the stem. Bulkheads. The bulkhead at Station 8 is constructed of 1-in. marine plywood. In way of the lavatory, a paneled door leading to the forepeak is installed. While this can be a hinged door, it will be more convenient if it is arranged to remove, being held in place with cleats and thumb buttons. Engine Bed. It is impossible to specify the

shape of the engine bed as it will vary to suit the engine installed. Basically, it is made of 2-in. yellow pine or white oak, notched over frames from Stations 2 to 3-1/2, and through- bolted to them. The bed is installed at an angle to the centerline in such a position that

the shaft line intersects the centerline at Sta- tion 3 and is approximately 12 in. off th e cen - terline and not less than 10 in. below the top

of the keel at Station1/2.It is highly important

to know what engine is to be installed and what the direction of rotation will be. A left-

hand engine turning a righthand propeller' should be installed with the propeller on the starboard side. A righthand engine turning

a lefthand wheel should be installed at the

opposite angle. Where the shaft passes through

the hull, a 4x4-in. wedge-shaped shaft log

is installed and bolted down to the planking

over a canvas and white-lead gasket. This shaft log carries the stuffing box. The after end of the shaft is carried on a strut bolted through the planking with fillers on the inside, said strut to have dimensions to suit the shaft size and angle required for the individual engine.

Cabin Construction. Each cabin side is

carried on a 2x4-in. oak or yellow-pine sill. These sills ar e cut off at th e bottoms at 8° angles from horizontal to impart the proper rake to the cabin sides and their tops are rabbeted to take said cabin sides. At the forward and after ends of the cabin are similar sills. The forward one bolts through

a deck beam and the after one bolts through

a cockpit beam and is framed up around the

engine box. The cabin sides are 1-in. oak, yellow pine, or mahogany and are screw- fastened into the lxl-in. rabbets in the tops of the sills. Use 1-3/4in. No. 10 screws at in- tervals of no more than 4 in. While marine plywood could be used for these sides, con- siderable difficulty would be encountered when rabbeting it for the windows. The height of the sides is taken from the outboard profile. The bottom and sides of each window open- ing have 1/4X1/2 in. rabbets in order that a conventional jump-and-swing sash can be in- stalled. On the outside, to protect the opening, there is a 3/8x2-in. batten at top and bottom. Each sash frame is lxl-1/2-in. oak or mahogany, rabbeted for the double-thick glass, which is held in place with quarter-round molding. Each sash is fitted inside with a handle and a hook for securing it to a roof beam. In the forward end of the cabin are two 6-in. port- lights. •

(Part II will appear next month).

130

By Gerald Taylor White Design by West/own Associates

A S mentioned last month, Flying . Dutchman is patterned after the

traditional, time-tested Dutch yachts. She has amazingly comfortable and roomy cruising accommodations for two. This month we are presenting the remainder of the drawings and specifications. Cabin Construction, continued. While marine plywood can be used for the cabin sides, considerable diffi- culty would be encountered when rabbeting for the windows; so you are advised to use the material previously specified. The 1x2-in. roof beams are cut to a radius of 11 ft. 6 in. and are located as shown in the plans. One of these beams notches into the upper end of the forward headledge. In way of the cabin hatch, the beams are

framed up in the manner usual for hatches. Note that the cabin sides extend beyond the bulkhead on Station 3. The cabin door

is made of the same material as the bulk-

head and is framed up to suit. The hatch

also of the same material, is arranged on

low coamings, and is of the double-hinged type—the after portion folds forward; then both halves can be flipped forward onto

the cabin roof. All necessary hooks, hinges, and locks are to be provided. The hinges for the hatch and for the engine box must be of the continuous type. The cabin roof is 3/4 " T&G white pine or spruce, with

a V-bead on the underside. This roof is

covered with 8-oz. canvas that is laid in

glue and turned down under the cabin- side moldings. The roof beams are sup- ported by 1x2-in. cabin clamps, which are shoved up tightly under the ends of the beams and screw-fastened to the cabin sides.

Planking. White cedar, white pine, long- leaf yellow pine, cypress, or mahogany, to finish 7/8-in.thick. The number of planks used are shown in the section drawings,

is

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but it may be necessary to insert stealers at the forward end. These stealers should not run to a feather edge, but should be nibbed into the planks. Where butts are necessary, they are to be backed with %-in. oak blocks reaching from frame to frame. Each block is to be at least 1-1/2". wider than the plank. Butts in adjoining planks are to be at least 3 ft. apart. The planking is secured to the frames with 3-in. boat nails driven at slight angles 4 in. apart. At the stem, stern, chines, and keel battens, use 2-in. No. 12 screws. Bevel the planking so there are 1/16". caulking openings on the outside and the seams are light-tight on the inside. Decking. All decking is similar in speci- fications to the planking, but is covered with 10-oz. canvas that is turned up inside the sill and the bulwark ceiling. At the frameheads, the decking extends as close to the frames as possible, watertight joints being made with the bulwark planking, which is 3/4in. thick and extends to a point 1 in. below the rail cap. This must fit very tightly against the deck and must be well fastened to the frames. To further insure watertightness, a shaped quarter-round molding is screw-fastened at the junction of deck and bulwark. All decking is fast

ened with 2-1/2" boat nails. The cockpit deck is the same as the main deck.

ened with 2-1/2" boat nails. The cockpit deck is the same as the main deck. Be-

tween Frames 1/2 and

and 3, the deking extends through to the planking. Great care should be taken here to insure watertightness. Scuppers are then cut through the planking so any water can drain overboard. Waterways. Around the upper outer edge of the cabin are1x1-1/2-in.combined waterways and grab rails, which are screw-fastened through the canvas into the cabin top. Cut scuppers through these waterways at the low spots to provide drainage. Centerboard. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, and of the shape shown in the detail. All pieces forming the board are fastened to- gether with 3/8-in. galvanized rod. Lead or iron ballast, about 35 lbs., is added to overcome flotation. The board is hung on a 7/8-in. bronze pin that passes entirely through the keel and is fitted with cotter pins and washers on the outside. A bronze bushing is placed in the centerboard over the pin. A light chain is shackled to the after end of the centerboard and runs through a sheave at the top of the after headledge, then down to a light tackle. After the board is installed, a cap is secured

1,1.5 and 2, and 2.5

across the top of the trunk. It has small moldings along the edges to prevent small articles from rolling off. Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4" thick, built up the same as the centerboard, and shaped as shown, with three notches cut in the after edge to act as a boarding lad- der. It is hung on heavy gudgeons and pintles, or else on heavy bronze screweyes through which a 3/8-in. rod is run. The tiller is made of a piece of white oak or ash, 2-1/2 in. deep, 1-1/4 in. thick, and ap- proximately 4 ft. 4 in. long. It is shaped as shown in the plans. A ball may be carved on the end if desired. The tiller fastens to the rudder through a slot the full thickness of the rudder blade. On each side of the slot there are oak blocks about 16 in. long and 1-1/4 in. thick, nicely tapered towards the bottom, through- bolted above and below the tiller slot, and screw-fastened at the bottom. Extreme care should be taken to make a strong job here as there is considerable strain on the tiller. Moldings. Along the main sheer and the rail line there are 1-1/2in. half-round oak moldings. These must be very well screwed into the frames and it is important that thick paint or marine glue be applied to

109

the undersides of the moldings before they are fastened. Additional half and quarter- round moldings

the undersides of the moldings before they are fastened. Additional half and quarter- round moldings are used where required to make a neat finish. Rail Cap. The entire bulwark from stem to stern is covered with a white oak or longleaf pine 1x5-in. cap. This rests horizontally on top of the frames and screw-fastens into the edges of the planks and into each frame. In way of any fittings attached to the cap, oak filler blocks, fitted tightly between the frames and fastened thereto, are used. Interior Arrangement, Below decks forward there is a large forepeak. It is reached through a deck hatch and through the panel in the forward bulkhead. A light grating is laid here to keep ropes and sails from getting into the bilge. It is suggested, although not necessary, that a 6-in. dead- light be installed in the hatch. The toilet room is built, as shown, of %-in. marine plywood. A marine watercloset is installed with lead-pipe connections for inlet and outlet. Outboard of the watercloset, shelves for linen and other equipment are installed. Around the inside of the toilet room, coat hooks are installed to suit. In the main cabin, both of the berths are built of %-in. marine plywood and fitted with lockers underneath. The tops of the cushions are 12 in. above the floor. The depths of the berth boxes depend upon the thickness of the cushions and whether or not box springs are used. Shelves are installed out-

110

board of the berths and a folding table of 3/4-in. plywood is fitted against the centerboard trunk. A small locker for guns and rods is installed against the after bulk- head between the companion ladder and the starboard berth. On the port side, a dresser, 11 in. high, is constructed, with lockers under it and dish racks over. The stove rests on this dresser in the position shown and must run athwartships. The sink measures 12x12 in. It drains overboard, the dresser being raised high enough to allow this. The water supply is by means of a 3/8-in. copper tube with gravity flow from the tank forward. The companion- way ladder is made of 3/4-in. plywood and fitted with hooks so it can be removed to gain access to the engine and the lazar- ette. It is suggested from the standpoint of safety that the stove be set in a zinc- covered box and that the bulkhead abaft the stove be covered with 1/4-in. asbestos and then covered with zinc. Ventilation. A 3-in. mushroom-type ventilator is installed in the forward deck to keep articles [Continued on page 136]

mushroom-type ventilator is installed in the forward deck to keep articles [Continued on page 136] Mechanix

Mechanix Illustrated

BILL OF MATERIALS

(Approximate

Quantities

Required)

BILL OF MATERIALS (Approximate Quantities Required) 111

111

Flying Dutchman

[Continued from page 110]

in the forepeak from remaining damp. Ven- tilation to the engine can be provided with two mushroom-type vents or a number of holes in engine box. Tanks. There are two cylindrical gal- vanized tanks fitted on the forward deck in heavy oak chocks. Each tank should have

at least one swash plate and a filling cap with

a small vent in the top. The tanks are held

in place with heavy galvanized straps lined with belt lining and drawn down either with turnbuckles or with lag screws. Where the outlet pipes pass through the deck, the open- ings should be tight. After passing through the deck, the pipes go outboard to the sides of the boat just inside the frames; then down and aft under the cabin floor. A shut-off valve must be arranged under the deck for each tank. The starboard tank is for fuel and the port tank for water. Deck Box. A deck box of7/8-in.waterproof plywood is installed alongside the engine hatch. It is used as a seat and as a receptacle for small articles. Icebox. Similar to the deck box, except that it consists of an inner and an outer box with at least 1 in. of ground-cork or glass- wool insulation between the two boxes. The drain for melted ice runs onto the deck. Boom Crotch. A scissors-type boom crotch, of 1-1/4x4 " white oak, is built as shown in the detail and arranged to hook to the insides of the traveller bitts at cockpit level and to ex- tend far enough above deck to carry the boom when the sails are furled. Bowsprit. White oak or longleaf pine, 8 ft. long and made from a 4x4-in. piece of material tapered down to 3 in. at the outboard end. It passes through an opening in the bulwark on the starboard side of the stem, to which it is through-bolted. Abaft the stem it is rectangu- lar in section; forward of the stem it is gradu- ally rounded off. It bolts down through the deck fillers and through the bitt. Mast and Boom. To be of selected spruce and made as per the details. The mast is round in section with a maximum diameter of 5-1/2 in. The boom is rectangular in section, made of a piece of 2-1/4-in. material. It is left straight on top, slightly rounded on the bot- tom, and tapered towards the ends as shown.

Deck Fittings. One pair 6-in. bow chocks for- ward; one 8-in. main-sheet cleat on the travel- ler aft; two 6-in. jib cleats bolted through blocks on top of the cabin; two swivel-type jib leads, also bolted through blocks on the cabin roof; two 8-in. halliard cleats, one on each side of the mast; two 5-in. lazyjack cleats; two

cheek leads for the lazyjack; two thimbles, two eyebolts on the boom, and two eyebolts on the mast for the lazyjack; one boom jaw with band; six mast tangs; one masthead compres- sion band with four eyes; four chain plates; one bobstay plate; one compression band with four eyes for the bowsprit; seven turnbuckles; one V-type strut for the jumper stays; and one mast slide with the necessary fittings. Standing Rigging. All 1/4-in. flexible plow steel, eye-spliced and attached to fittings with shackles or patented attachments. There are four shrouds, a forestay, a jibstay, and two jumper stays. Running Rigging. Halliards, 1/2-in.-dia. manila; jib sheets, 3/8-in.-dia. manila; main sheet, 3/4".-dia. manila; lazyjacks, 3/8".-dia. manila. All to be properly spliced and sized. Block List. All of the blocks are to be of a size to take the running rigging without chance of binding if the rope swells. One single block for the jib halliard; one single block and one single block with becket for the main halliard; two single blocks, one double block with traveller ring, and one eyebolt for the main sheet. Sails. Eight-oz. sailcloth of a quality to be approved by the owner. The jib is to be fitted with hanks for the stay. The mainsail is to have slide fittings along the mast, lacing eyes along the boom, a headboard at the peak, and two sets of reef points: one 2 ft. above the foot and another 3 ft. 6 in. above the foot. To extend the roach, batten pockets are to be installed at 4-ft. intervals. Both sails are to be supplied with sail covers and strops. Sail Dimensions. Jib: Luff, 19 ft. 2 in.

Foot,

Leech, 15 ft. 10 in.

9 ft. 6 in.

Mainsail:

Hoist,

28

3in.

ft.

ft.

ft,

exclusive of

in.

Ballast. Like all centerboard boats, this craft will require trimming ballast, the exact amount depending upon the equipment in- stalled. So locate it to bring her to her de- signed waterline. All of this ballast is inside. In a boat of this character, ordinary building brick provides an excellent ballast. It is cheap and easy to install. The cabin flooring should be arranged with frequent hatches so the ballast can be installed or moved. When the boat is to be hauled out for any length of [Continued on page 138]

Foot,

7 in.

Leech,

17

32

• roach

Roach,

16

136

Mechani x Illustrate d

138

Flying-Dutchman

[Continued from page 136] time, it is advisable to remove the ballast. Painting. All painting to be of a color to suit the owner. There should not be less than three coats of either paint or varnish on the outside of the boat, no less than two coats on the inside. A suggested painting scheme is red antifouling paint for the bottom and the boottop, black from there to the main sheer, dark red between the sheer and the rail, white cabin, white spars, and buff decks. Anchors and Lines. Depending on whether the boat is to be kept in an exposed location or not, there should be at least two yachts- man's anchors: a 50-lb. one and a 25-lb. one, or the equivalent in patented anchors. There should be not less than 75 feet of 1-in. line for the heavy anchor, the same amount of

3/4-in.line for the light anchor, and at, least

50 feet of 3/4-in. line for warps.

Well, Mates, that's the story. Our last word of warning. If you've carefully read the fore- going, you can readily understand that any- one who builds a small boat must be a jack- of-all-trades. He must do countless jobs of carpentry, attend to the plumbing, install the wiring, fit the engine, cut and splice rigging, and paint and varnish the finished job. All of this requires careful planning, especially if you are an amateur: so don your thinking cap and make haste slowly! •

planning, especially if you are an amateur: so don your thinking cap and make haste slowly!

Mechanix Illustrated