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Introduction to Seams
A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of
stitches or stitch types to one or several layers of material.
flat
superimposed
lapped
bound
ornamental
Flat Seams
In these seams, sometimes called Butt
Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded,
are brought together and oversewn
with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or
covering stitch (Class 600).
The purpose is to produce a join where
no extra thickness of fabric can be
tolerated at the seam, as in underwear
or in foundation garments.
The looper thread(s) must be soft, yet
strong and the cover thread may be
decorative as well as strong.
Superimposed Seams
These generally start with two or
more
pieces
of
material
superimposed over each other and
joined near an edge, with one or
more rows of stitches. There are
various types of seams within the SS
class.
A superimposed seam can be sewn
with a stitch 301 or 401 to create a
simple seam. The same seam type
can also be sewn with stitch class
500 (Overedge stitch) or Combination
stitches (i.e. stitch class 516) to
create neat load bearing seams for
lingerie, shirts, etc.
Lapped Seams
Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e.
Lapped Seams
The Lap Felled type, involves only one
Bound Seams
These are formed by folding a binding strip
over the edge of the plies of material and
joining both edges of the binding to the
material with one or more rows of stitching.
This produces a neat edge on a seam
exposed to view or to wear.
Ornamental Seams
A series of stitches along a straight or
curved line or following an ornamental
design, on a single ply of material.
More complex types include various
forms of piping, producing a raised line
along the fabric surface.
Skipped Stitches
Causes
Solutions
Staggered Stitches
Causes
Solutions
Change needle
Solutions
Incorrect threading
Solutions
Increase presser foot pressure
Change to a more positive feed mechanism
Seam Grin
When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the
Seam Slippage
A fabric related issue.
Corrective Actions
Seam Pucker
Tension pucker
Feed pucker
Shrinkage pucker
Inherent pucker
Fabric flagging
Tension Pucker
Caused by high thread tension during sewing.
More pronounced when synthetic threads are used.
These threads on account of high stretch
Remedy:
Thread tensions have to be kept as
low as possible.
Feed Pucker
Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics.
The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other
Remedy :
Opting for advanced types of feed
systems like compound or unison feed.
Puller feed is more cost effective.
Shrinkage Pucker
Wash pucker - during the wash process the thread in the seam
shrinks, pulling the fabric with it. More so when using cotton
threads.
Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are
used. The heat destabilizes the molecular structure of the
thread causing it to contract.
Remedy
Inherent Pucker
Normally seen when sewing densely woven materials.
Remedy
Opting for finer needles & threads
Opt for a chain stitch in place of a lock
stitch
Reduce stitch density
Biased stitching
Fabric Flagging
A machine related issue
- Nm 60 65
- Nm 100 120
70
120
Seam Engineering
A garment is made up using a series of different seams.
Therefore, a thread should be chosen for specific seams to ensure
maximum benefits.
Seam appearance
Is the seam attractive, consistent, and neat?
Seam strength
Seam stretch
Seam durability
Seam Strength
Critical factors :
Thread strength
Stitch type
Stitch rating
Seam type
Fabric type
Seam Strength
Seam Type
A lap felled seam is the strongest of all seam types because the
fabric is lapped upon itself and shares the stress load along with
the thread. However, the lap felled seam makes a bulky seam.
Stitch Type
The lockstitch is the most common stitch used, but the most easily
damaged.
Stitch Density
Seam Stretch
Critical factors
Thread extensibility
Stitch type
Stitch rating
Fabric Type
Seam Durability
Defined as the ability of a seam to withstand
abrasion during :
Rayon
Cotton
SSP
12
Core spun :
30
CF Nylon :
150
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