SMALLBORE PRONE RIFLE CLINIC

WITH LONES WIGGER

COLORADO RIFLE CLUB-BYERS
6/23/2002

NOTES AND COMMENTS

MIRAGE IS THE BEST INDICATOR

FLAGS ARE ONLY AN AID

FUNDAMENTALS/BASICS
• SHOOTING WELL IS BASED ON POSITION
• YOUR POSITION IS WHAT PROVIDES FOR A GOOD HOLD
• YOUR GOAL IS TO HOLD RIFLE STILL WITH TARGET CENTERED IN SIGHTS
• THREE IMPORTANT ASPECTS:
- HEAD
- NATURAL POINT OF AIM
- EYE RELIEF
• YOUR POSITION MUST BE COMFORTABLE AND NATURAL
• IF YOU HAVE A NATURAL POSITION YOU CAN’T CROSS FIRE
• RELAX, CLOSE YOUR EYES, LOOK BACK THROUGH SIGHTS. SHIFT YOUR
POINT OF AIM IF YOUR NOT ON TARGET.
• IF WINDAGE IS SLIGHTLY OFF - CHANGE LEFT ELBOW
• IF WINDAGE IS OFF MORE - SHIFT WHOLE BODY AROUND LEFT ELBOW
• IF ELEVATION CHANGE IS NEEDED, THEN SLING MAY BE LOOSE; IF
ELEVATION IS TOO HIGH, CHANGE BUTT PLATE LOCATION.
• LET LEFT ARM BE COMPLETELY RELAXED
• NATURAL POINT OF AIM IS A MATTER OF RELAXING.
• YOUR LEFT ARM IS ONLY A FULCRUM
• CROSS FIRE? THAT’S A BIG ANGLE, SET YOURSELF UP ON YOUR OWN
TARGET. YOU CAN’T CROSS FIRE WITH A PROPER POSITION AND A TIGHT
POSITION.
• AT 100 YARDS THE ELEVATION CHANGE BETWEEN BULLS REQUIRES VERY
LITTLE DIFFERENCE.
• THERE IS NOT MUCH CHANGE BETWEEN TARGET BULLS AT 100 YARDS
• CONFIDENCE IS BEING ABLE TO GET IN AND OUT OF POSITION WITH NO
CHANGE
• MOVE YOUR RIGHT ARM OUT OR PUSH CHEST DOWN TO CHANGE TO CHANGE
100 YARD TARGET BULLS
• Q: IN WHAT ORDER DO YOU SHOOT TARGETS? A: “I FIGURE THEY’RE
NUMBERED FOR A REASON.”
• I SHOOT THEM AS THEY’RE NUMBERED.
• PRACTICE: DRY FIRE 3-4 TIMES A WEEK
• [AT 50 FEET THE ANGLE OF CHANGE IS LARGER, LONES WIGGER SHOOTS
THE COLUMN DOWNWARD ON A-36 TARGETS]
• THERE IS NOT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TOP AND BOTTOM BULL
REGARDING WIND.
• FAST AMMUNITION IS NO LESS SENSITIVE TO WIND.
• POSITION: CIRCULATION! DON’T LET YOUR HAND GO TO SLEEP. WORK
YOUR HAND, TAKE IT OUT OF THE SLING. STOP AND TAKE IT OUT OF
POSITION. NOT GOOD TO CUT CIRCULATION.
• CONSISTENCY: CHECK PRESSURE FROM SHOT TO SHOT.
• GET INTO POSITION, CLOSE YOUR EYES, THEN OPEN. YOU SHOULD BE
LOOKING THROUGH YOUR SIGHTS.
• MAKE A CHEEK PIECE. A PROPER CHEEK PIECE IS VERY IMPORTANT
• CHANGING YOUR HEAD POSITION LEADS TO TENSING THE MUSCLES IN YOUR
NECK
• STOCK PLACEMENT IN SHOULDER; STOCK LENGTH DISTANCE. LEFT HAND
AND FOREARM STOP. PLACE BUTT INTO SHOULDER AT THE SAME PLACE.
THIS IS MADE BY MADE BY FEEL.
• HAND RELAXED.
• FINGERS RELAXED.
• CONSISTENCY IN SLING TENSION! HIGH/LOW ON ARM MAKES NO
DIFFERENCE. IF YOU GET A PULSE BEAT, CHANGE THE SLING HEIGHT.
• ARM ANGLE: 30 DEGREES OFF GROUND TO BE LEGAL. NOT ARM ON GROUND.
• SPOTTING SCOPE POSITION - WHEN YOU ARE IN POSITION WITH NATURAL
POINT OF AIM, PULL THE SCOPE TO YOU. IT MOVES. DON’T COMPROMISE
YOUR POSITION

SHOT PREPARATION
• DOMINANT EYE DETERMINES HOW WELL DO YOU SEE. OF COURSE, IT’S TOO
LATE IF YOU’RE ALREADY SHOOTING. SHOOTING SHOULD BE BASED ON
YOUR BEST EYE.
• EYE RELIEF - THEY ADJUST APERTURES 1 - 1.5" IS PLENTY
• DON’T TOUCH YOUR SIGHT. SIGHT IS MADE WITH TOLERANCE
• SIGHT ALIGNMENT IS JUST CENTERING YOUR FRONT AND REAR SIGHT.
THIS IS MORE IMPORTANT WITH SERVICE RIFLES.
• SIGHT ALIGNMENT PLUS A TARGET GIVES YOU THE SIGHT PICTURE
• FRONT APERTURE SIZE? DIFFICULT TO SAY BECAUSE OF TUBES. AT 27"
IS 3.4MM.
• AN APERTURE WHICH TOO SMALL MAKES THE EYE TIRED.
• IF YOU ADD AN 8" TUBE, THEN APERTURE MAY BE 4.1 OR 4.2MM
• YOU SHOULD SEE A GOOD THICK LINE OF WHITE!
• ON YOUR TARGET, PUT YOUR CLIP BETWEEN THE BULLSEYE, BUT OPPOSITE
THE BLACK - IT MAKES IT EASIER TO SEE THE TARGET
• REAR APERTURE: DON’T OPEN IT UP TOO FAR BECAUSE YOU CHANGE YOUR
DEPTH-OF-FIELD.
• ADJUST YOUR REAR SIGHT: WITH SIGHT COMPLETELY CLOSED, OPEN ONE
OR TWO CLICKS UNTIL IT’S CLEAR. CHANGE A LITTLE ON THE DARKER
SIDE.
• FOCUS YOUR EYE ON THE FRONT SIGHT PICTURE
• WHEN YOU SEE ABOUT THE BEST, THEN DARKEN BY ONE CLICK.
• SHOOT WITH BOTH EYES OPEN
• IF YOU SHOOT WITH GLASSES, ADD AN OPAQUE DOT OVER YOUR LEFT EYE
• DON’T SQUINT BECAUSE IT STRAINS THE OTHER EYE.

“HOLD CONTROL”
• KEEP ALIGNED SIGHT TO CENTER AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE
• CONCENTRATE ON KEEPING BODY AND RIFLE STILL
• CONCENTRATE ON BULL IN FRONT SIGHT
• HELP HOLD RIFLE STILL
• IT’S A TIGHT CONTROLLED POSITION. BUT IT’S RELAXED
• NEVER USE A MUSCLE IN YOUR LEFT ARM
• LEFT ARM LAYS NATURALLY
• A LOT OF PRESSURE INTO SHOULDER. BUILD IT WHERE YOU CAN LOAD
GUN.
• NEVER MOVE THE LEFT ELBOW WHEN LOADING, IT CHANGES YOUR
POSITION.
• THE RIFLE STOCK LENGTH IS CORRECT WHEN YOU CAN MOVE YOUR RIGHT
ARM TO LOAD WITHOUT RAISING YOUR CHEST OR SHIFTING POSITION.
• BUT THE GUN SITS THERE. RECOIL MUST BE A SHORT JUMP IN A TIGHT
POSITION.
• THE RIFLE MUST BE “LOCKED IN”!
• THE RIGHT ELBOW CARRIES VERY LITTLE WEIGHT
• GET YOUR CHEST OFF THE MAT.
• DON’T PULL YOUR GUN BACK WITH THE RIGHT ARM
• IF YOU SEE FLOATERS, BLINK. THEN ITS 2-3 SECONDS TO SHOOT
• COLOR FILTERS - USE THEM ONLY IF IT’S REALLY BRIGHT. THEN USE A
POLARIZING FILTER, NOT COLOR. NEVER USE ONE INDOORS.

TRIGGER CONTROL
• DIFFERENT CONTROL THAN FOR STANDING (BECAUSE OF WOBBLE)
• NOT A BIG DEAL. IT’S MORE IMPORTANT IN STANDING POSITION.
• IT MUST BE CONSISTENT. LEARN THE FEEL FOR THE WEIGHT.
• SET IT OFF WHEN YOU’RE READY.
• YOUR AREA IS SO TIGHT YOU CAN CONTROL THE TRIGGER.
• PROGRESS FROM ‘SURPRISE’ AS A BEGINNER TO LEARNING TRIGGER
CONTROL.
• A LITTLE PRESSURE WHEN YOU’RE SQUEEZING WITH RIGHT HAND, NO
DEATH GRIP

FOLLOW THROUGH
• SIGHT PICTURE CONTROL AND BREATH CONTROL CONTINUE. UNTIL THE
GUN RECOIL RETURNS TO BATTERY.
• ONLY THEN LOOK THROUGH THE SCOPE
• DON’T RACE YOUR HEAD TO THE SCOPE TO WATCH THE BULLET IMPACT.
• LET THE BULLET OUT OF THE BARREL THE SAME WAY EVERY SHOT
• DON’T DESTROY THE HOLD OF THE GUN
• AFTER THE TRIGGER PULL, CALL YOUR SHOT
• BELIEVE YOUR CALL: THAT’S WHERE IT SHOULD BE.
• EVERY RECORD SHOT IS A SIGHTING SHOT
• EVERY SHOT TELLS YOU WHAT YOU’RE GOING TO DO NEXT

BREATHING
• SHOOT WITH LUNGS HALF FULL, NOT WITH FULL LUNGS
• DON’T DEPRIVE YOURSELF OF OXYGEN.
• RELAX AND KEEP BREATHING NATURAL
• MAKE YOUR SIGHT CHANGE IF NEEDED... DO IT AGAIN.
• IF YOU DON’T SHOOT WITHIN 5-8 SECOND: BREATH, BLINK, CHECK WIND
CONDITIONS AND TRY AGAIN.

MIRAGE
• UNFOCUS YOUR SPOTTING SCOPE CLOSER–NOT FARTHER AWAY.
• YOU DON’T CARE WHAT THE WIND IS DOING FARTHER AWAY.
• IT’S A BIG ASSET
• FLAGS ARE SLOWER TO REACT THAN WIND.
PRONE POSITION - EXAMPLE
• IT SHOULD APPEAR AS MOTIONLESS - TIGHT AND CONTROLLED
• YOUR BODY LAYS BETWEEN 5-20 DEGREES TO TARGET
• THE BODY WEIGHT IS TO THE LEFT SLIGHTLY
• LEFT LEG IS TURNED IN
• LEFT LEG IS STRAIGHT WITH YOUR SPINE
• RIGHT LEG AND FOOT ARE TURNED OUT
• ADJUST YOUR WEIGHT BY MOVING YOUR RIGHT LEG UP OR DOWN
• YOUR LEFT ELBOW IS AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE IN FRONT OF YOU
• YOUR LEFT ELBOW IS TO THE LEFT OF THE GUN
• THE ARMY DOESN’T KNOW HOW TO SHOOT
• CHEEKPIECE - GET ONE, OR BUILD ONE TO KEEP YOUR HEAD IN SAME
POSITION FOR SIGHT ALIGNMENT
• OPEN YOUR LEFT HAND
• CHECK: WHEN GUN IS PULLED UPWARD - IT ROCKS AND RETURNS TO
POSITION, THAT’S A PROPER TIGHT POSITION.
• DON’T USE A SPONGY MITT
• IT’S ONLY OKAY TO HOLD THE GUN STILL IN THE STANDING POSITION.
THEN YOU TRAIN TO KEEP THE RIFLE STILL.
• WORK WITH POSITION MORE. INCREASE TIGHTNESS MEANS INCREASED
CONTROL AND INCREASED PAIN, BUT YOU CONTROL THE MUZZLE AND SHOOT
BETTER.

AMMUNITION
• TEST IT OFF THE BENCH AT 100 YARDS
• YOUR FINAL TEST IS WITH A SLING OFF THE SHOULDER
• SHOOT YOUR TEST WITH A TELESCOPE OUTDOORS ON A TARGET WITH 1/4"
AIMPOINTS.
• NOTE: LONES WIGGER USES A SCOPE WITH 1/4" DOT TARGET
• SHOOT TWO OR THREE 10-SHOT GROUPS
• THE VELOCITY OF THE AMMUNITION NEEDS TO BE MATCHED TO THE BARREL
VIBRATION
• A BARREL TUNER IS HARD TO USE IN THE PRONE POSITION. THEY’RE
MORE TROUBLE THAN THEY’RE WORTH SOMETIMES.
• RIMFIRE AMMUNITION IS SO SENSITIVE TO THE BARREL. A GOOD GROUP
MEASURES ¾” OR LESS CENTER-TO-CENTER
• SECOND GRADE AMMUNITION, ELEY BLACK OR FEDERAL 900 MAY BE JUST
AS GOOD AS PREMIUM AMMUNITION IN YOUR GUN.
• FEDERAL TESTS THEIR AMMUNITION ON A 50 METER TEST TARGET USING A
REMINGTON 40X, SO FEDERAL’S MATCH 900 AMMUNITION MAY GROUP IN
YOUR GUN AS WELL AS ULTRAMATCH 1000.
• ELEY TESTS THEIR AMMUNITION IN FIVE DIFFERENT GUNS.
• FEDERAL WON’T TEST THEIR AMMUNITION IN ANSCHUTZ RIFLES.

WIND
• TWO KINDS OF WIND, ONE THAT EFFECTS YOU AND ONE THAT EFFECTS THE
BULLET
• THE WIND ON YOUR BODY IN THE STANDING POSITION REQUIRES YOUR
 COMPLETE FOCUS.
• IN PRONE POSITION IT CAN STILL BUMP YOU
• FIRST, CONTROL THE MUZZLE
• GET REALLY TIGHT
• FORE-END STOP OUT
• MUSCLE THE RIFLE INTO YOUR SHOULDER
• HOLD ONTO THE RIFLE WITH YOUR LEFT HAND
• TIGHTEN YOUR SLING
• SECOND, YOUR ATTITUDE: ACCEPT IT
• “I’M GOING TO SHOOT WELL.”
• YOU CAN DO WELL IN THE WIND - TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT
• YOUR COMPETITION DECREASES BECAUSE PEOPLE QUIT
• STICK WITH BASIC FUNDAMENTALS, DON’T COMPROMISE PERFORMANCE
• THIRD, UTILIZE YOUR TIME
• WAIT ON IT 2-3 MINUTES. YOUR CONDITION COMES BACK. WAIT...
WAIT... IF IT DOES NOT CHANGE, THEN SIGHT IN AGAIN.
• FOURTH, CONCENTRATION AND WORK ETHIC
• YOU INCREASE YOUR CONCENTRATION AND INCREASE YOUR WORK
• FOCUS ON EVERY SHOT
• TAKE ADVANTAGE OF LULLS, BUT STILL WITH EXTREME CONCENTRATION

WIND ON THE BULLET

• MIRAGE IS YOUR BEST INDICATOR
• FULL VALUE WIND IS FROM 9 AND 3 O’CLOCK
• ½ VALUE WIND IS FROM 1-2 O’CLOCK
• IT’S EASY TO MAKE CHANGES FROM 3 TO 1 OR 2 TO 1, THERE IS LESS
CORRECTION
• PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR CORRECTION CHANGE
• A WIND FROM YOUR BACK, 6 O’CLOCK POSITION IS A NO-VALUE WIND,
BUT IS VERY DANGEROUS.
• TODAY’S CONDITION: 11-1 O’CLOCK CHANGES = 2-3 CLICK CHANGE
• WHEN THE MIRAGE IS BOILING MEANS IT’S GOING TO CHANGE!
• ZERO IN FROM ONE DIRECTION
• MAKES HEAD AND TAIL WINDS HARD TO SHOOT IN - THE BULLET
FISHTAILS.
• 10-4 O’CLOCK PATTERN OF BULLET ON THE TARGET IN A CROSS WIND.
THAT MEANS 4 CLICKS LEFT OR RIGHT NEEDS 1 CLICK OF ELEVATION
CHANGE.
• USING THE MIRAGE IS BETTER THAN CHASING A SPOTTING ROUND.
• DON’T CHASE THE SPOTTING ROUND.
• DON’T ESTIMATE THE WIND SPEED AND THE CLICK-AND-SHOOT. IT’S NOT
CONSISTENT
• ZERO IN FOR THE PREDOMINANT POSITION, THEN SHOOT THAT CONDITION.
• NEVER SHOOT IN A COMPLETE SWITCH.
• SHADING: MEANS HOLDING INTO THE WIND... KENTUCKY WINDAGE.
• IT’S USED WITH TELESCOPIC SIGHTS. COMPENSATE FROM YOUR PREVIOUS
ROUND.
• NEVER SHADE OUTSIDE THE 10-RING....OR BETTER, DON’T SHADE
OUTSIDE THE X-RING

PRACTICAL STUDY ON MIRAGE AT THE FIRING LINE

USE ALL YOUR WIND INDICATORS
• FLAGS: BE SURE FLAGS ARE STEADY AND HAVE MADE THEIR COMPLETE
MOVE.
• THE SECOND BEST INDICATOR AFTER MIRAGE
• THE FIRST ROW OF FLAGS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. THEY GIVE THE WIN
CLOSER TO THE MUZZLE.
• IF IT’S RAINING, WATCH THE ANGLE OF THE RAIN
• LOOK AT THE WEEDS IN FRONT OF THE TARGET
• LOOK AT THE DIRT FROM THE BERM
• LISTEN TO OTHER SHOOTERS AND LISTEN IF THEY SWEAR
• DON’T ADMIRE YOUR SIGHT PICTURE – SHOOT IF THE CONDITION APPEARS
– QUICKLY.
• A NATURAL POINT OF AIM LEADS TO QUICKER SHOOTING WHEN YOUR
CONDITION APPEARS.
• HEAD VERSUS TAIL WINDS EFFECTS - THE BULLET MOVEMENT IS VERY
LITTLE.
• DURING YOUR THREE MINUTE WARM-UP PERIOD: WATCH THE WIND.
• YOUR EQUIPMENT SHOULD ALREADY HAVE BEEN READY AND SET-UP. GET
DOWN DURING YOUR THREE-MINUTES AND WATCH THE WIND.

GUN CLEANING AND BARRELS

• CLEAN YOUR BORE EVERY 40 SHOTS
• SOME BARRELS HOLD LEAD
• A DIRTY GUN DOESN’T SHOOT WELL
• IF YOUR BARREL FOULS A LOT, CHANGE BARRELS
• SHOOT TWO FOULING ROUNDS AND THE BARREL SETTLES
• KARL KENYON USES SCHNEIDER BARRELS.
• NOTE: LONES WIGGER ALSO LIKES HART AND MCMILLAN. HE HAS HAD NO
LUCK WITH SHILEN AND LILJA
• A BLOOP TUBE EXTENDS YOUR SIGHT RADIUS. IT’S NOT NEEDED FOR GOOD
EYES.
• Q: IS A 19" BARREL AND TUBE BETTER THAN A 26" BARREL? I DON’T
KNOW IF IT’S BETTER.
• KEEP YOUR TUBE CLEAN - USE A SHOTGUN BRUSH.
• THE TUBE LETS YOU SEE THE TARGET BETTER
• FOR INTERNATIONAL 50-METER TARGETS, 1/4 - 1/6 MINUTE OF ANGLE
SIGHTS ARE BEST. DON’T USE 1/8" THERE ARE TOO MANY CLICKS AND
YOU CAN’T SEE THE RESULTS.
• SCOPES - USE A 20-26X FOR PRONE SHOOTING. TRY AND GET A 1/4
MINUTE DOT SO YOU DON’T LOSE IT ON YOUR TARGET.