Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
By William D. Ehringer
A Comparison Of The Military Armament Corporation Model
10/9 mm (MAC-10/9) And The Sylvia And Wayne Daniels
M11 (SWD M11/9) and other MAC-type weapons.
For those of you who are into MACs, you know that the MAC-11
is the .380 version of the gun (Table 1). This question is
usually meant to be, "What is the difference between a MAC10/9 and a SWD M11/9?" Since I currently own examples of
these weapons, I took the time to write down the differences
and do a little research on the history and development of the
guns and the companies that built them. In no way am I
claiming that this is an all-inclusive list of all the information
on MACs. That topic would be better dealt with in a
comprehensive book on this subject. Rather, this short
narrative is intended to give the MAC enthusiast a feel for the
differences and similarities between the two most popular
transferable SMGs ever built.
Manufacturer
Model
Military Armament
M10
Corp.
Military Armament
M10
Corp.
Military Armament
M11
Corp.
RPB Industries
M10
RPB Industries
M10
RPB Industries
M11
RPB Industries
M10
RPB Industries
M10
RPB Industries
M11
MAC, Stephenville, TX M10
MAC, Stephenville, TX M10
SWD Inc.
M11
SWD Inc.
M11A1
SWD Inc.
M10
Jersey Arms
M10
Jersey Arms
M10
Erquiaga Arms Co.
M10
Section Five Ltd
M10
Hatton Industries
S-701
(MAC10)
Caliber
9mm
Features
open bolt SMG
45acp
380acp
9mm
45acp
380acp
9mm
45acp
380acp
9mm
45acp
9mm
380acp
9mm/45
9mm
45acp
9mm
9mm
45acp
but in some collectors eyes the manufacturing was not on par with
the original MAC. Nearly all of the machine guns that came from RPB
were either frame flats, frames or completed guns which were
bought from MAC in the auction. Because the machine gun market
at that time was not as popular as it is today, RPB came up with a
new marketing strategy, which was to offer the MAC-10 as a Title I
weapon (a semi-automatic) creating an Open Bolt semi-automatic
firearm. BATF stepped in mid-1982 and halted the manufacture of
open bolt semi's because they were easily convertible to full-auto.
About a year later, RPB went out of business.
SWD Incorporated. In 1983, Wayne Daniels, a former principal at
RPB Industries, started his own company. He modified the existing
MAC design and created the SWD (Sylvia and Wayne Daniels)
M11/9. The gun was MASS-PRODUCED, and that is the reason that
so many are still offered for sale NIB. When the MG ban went
through in 1986, SWD sold the rights (or became part of) Cobray.
Cobray started marketing the closed bolt design Cobray M11/9. This
semi-auto uses the exact same MG receiver as did the SWD M11/9,
with only a few exceptions (selector switch not drilled, sear pin, and
re-enforcing plates absent). After the Assault Weapons Ban in 1994,
the Cobray M11/9 could no longer be made, so Cobray re-marketed
the gun with a non-threaded barrel and a mag release as the PM11/9.
Other Manufacturers
Suppressors
Now as far as original suppressors go, two general types were built:
a single-stage suppressor that used Nomex wipes and a two-stage
suppressor that was wipeless in design. The two-stage suppressor
was the original can made for the MAC. The single stage suppressor
came along afterwards and was the one hated by its owners, and
later by the ATF. The big reason for this hatred was that for the
suppressor to achieve decent sound suppression, the internal wipes
had to be replaced after only a couple hundred rounds. This is
when Gun Show vendors started selling replacement Nomex "wipe
kits." Problem was, that the same vendor would also sell the tubes
the wipes fit in, and those individuals who made a suppressor in
violation of the NFA ruined it for us all. This is when ATF ruled that
any suppressor part was indeed a suppressor and had to be either
registered or in the possession of a Class 2 manufacturer. Well as
you can imagine, this shut-down the "spare suppressor parts
business" and owners of these cans had a "limited life suppressor."
In the trigger group. Pull up on the selector spring (long wire that
runs along the left side of the receiver) and pull the selector switch
out of its hole. This may take some gentle nudging and holding
down of parts. Once the selector is removed, the disconnect (thin
piece of sheet metal nearest to the selector switch hole) is free and
is removed. Also the sear is now free and is removed. The trigger
is held in place by a trigger pin. Gently tap on this pin to remove it
(some pins are directional so try this procedure GENTLY on both
sides until the pin moves freely; however, all of the SWD, PS, and
RPB guns have a trigger pin that removes from the left side). With
the trigger pin removed, the trigger can be removed, and the safety
is no longer held in place. To remove the safety, carefully tap the
safety roll pin free from the safety and remove the plastic safety
button. The safety assembly is now free and can be removed (Be
careful as the safety has a small spring and detent which can easily
be lost).
The bolt strips easily as well. First compress the bolt on its spring
assembly about 1-2" to expose the recoil rod. At the tip of the rod
is a small roll pin. Tap this roll pin out and carefully remove the
spring (Caution: The spring is under a fair amount of force and you
should wear eye protection when working on the gun). With the
spring removed, the recoil rod/ejector rod assembly can be
removed. The bolt only has one working part: the extractor. To
remove it, carefully drive the extractor retaining pin out of its
hole. I like to use a drift punch that is the same size as the hole,
this way the extractor is retained on the punch and I can dictate the
"terms" of its removal. Remove the extractor and extractor spring.
The barrel should be removed only when necessary. Before you
start, spray some Break Free on the threads for the barrel inside of
the upper to help loosen it prior to proceeding. Remove the upper
from the gun and remove the bolt. Place the upper on a soft surface
and tap the barrel-retaining pin from the RIGHT SIDE, so that the
force of removing the pin acts to loosen the barrel (leftyloosey). Place the end of the barrel in a vice that is lined with
rubber or thick leather. Using a large screw driver or metal rod that
will fit in the upper receiver forward retaining hole, slowly loosen the
UPPER from the barrel (i.e., the barrel remains stationary and the
upper is turned). I have had barrels that were easy to remove and I
have had some that I swear were welded in place. The key is
patience and a good vice.
Re-assembly of the MAC is simply a reversal of the above steps.
Conclusion
guns. No matter which one you choose, I can almost guarantee that
shooting it will put a smile on your face.