A Summer Internship Project Report on

Role of merchandiser
At
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.

Department of Fashion Management Studies

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur
(Ministry of Textiles, Govt. Of India)

Submitted by Rohit kumar

MFM Batch
(2013-15)

DECLARATION

I, ROHIT KUMAR hereby declare that the internship project entitled Role of
Merchandiser at Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. In Apparel Fashion submitted
towards, partial fulfillment of the Degree of Master of Fashion Management is
my original work and no part of project has been copied from any other reports
or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any
other degree. However, any material taken from any other published source has
been suitably referred and acknowledged at various palaces.

Name: Rohit Kumar

Roll Number: 2013125
Batches: MFM (2013-2015)
Center: NIFT Jodhpur

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Upon completion of this project, I would like to express my gratitude towards the
supervisor of this project Ms. Shikha Gupta for the opportunity to do summer
internship. I am very grateful to Mr. Rohit sir for providing me opportunity to
work in and get training in Shahi Export. Further, I am also extremely indebted
to my Mentor Ms. Shikha Gupta, who guided me,. I would also express my
sincere gratitude to Shahi Export and staff members. I want to express my
appreciation to all those with whom I worked. Interacted and whose thoughts
and insists helped me in increasing my knowledge and understanding of
working in an organization.
I feel great pleasure in presenting my high obligation to Mr. Rohit Sharma
(DMM) who gave me the opportunity to undergo training at Shahi Export Pvt.
Ltd.
I acknowledge them with great sense of gratitude to Ms. Chetna Chugh
(Merchandiser) and Mr. Mohit Malhotra (Sample Co ordinator) (my training
guides) for providing their esteemed guidance and knowledge to help me in
training.
Finally, I owe my thanks to faculty members and Training & Placement
Department of FMS of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur for
helping me to get through the summer training at this esteemed Organization.

Signature of student

ABSTRACT

This project is aimed at to understand merchandising process & role of the

merchandiser. It begins with the introduction of the company i.e. company profile.
Including introduction of the company, its plant location, capacity, history,
financial turn over giving idea of Exports at Shahi Exports
The merchandisers role & merchandising process in Shahi Exports
It provides the detail on the objective: A view of different departments working
in synchronization in order to process an export order.
Giving a brief idea on the merchandisers & what role they play and
merchandising role in Shahi exports.
In the final a brief summary of all the documents used at the Shahi for export
order is given and stages of sample in merchandise department from sourcing to
production of product comprising of quality process and costing of product.
It has been a great learning outcome from doing the internship by knowing the
working of the export house how the merchandiser makes the sample, how to
do costing of the garment providing the schedule of the process till the shipment
through time and action calendar and negotiate and fulfilling the requirement of
the buyer.

TABLE OF CONTENT
Sr. No.

Content

Page No.

1.

Introduction

06

2.

Company overview

09

3.

Major clients

12

4.

Various department of Shahi Exports

13

5.

Role of merchandiser

14

6.

Division of work in merchandise department

15

7.

Stages of Sample in merchandise department

21

8.

Sourcing of Raw Material

28

9.

Cutting Department

34

10.

Stitching Department

37

11.

Finishing Department

38

12.

Quality process

41

13.

Costing and calculations

50

14.

Documentation for shipment

58

15.

Care labelling

59

16.

Learning Outcomes

61

17.

Conclusion

62

INTRODUCTION

MERCHANDISING

The process of planning, developing and presenting product lines for identified
target markets is called merchandising with regard to pricing, assorting, styling
and timing

3 main components of merchandising

Line planning

Line development

Line presentation

Planning&Control

Documentation&
presentations

Market Knowledge

Merchandising

Interface with
Suppliers
Sourcing &
Material management

Product Knowledge

Costing and negotiation

Interface with
buyer

Fashion merchandising is the promotion of apparel sales and involves all of the
tasks necessary to deliver the clothing requests and meet the needs of potential
customers and designers. Developing campaigns, displays and advertisements,
directing manufacturing and marketing, and creating sales strategies are all part
of the job.
6

Export Merchandising
Merchandising has been to a large extent a function which was never clearly
defined not distinctly performed in the Indian Apparel export industry of old. On
one hand the merchandiser had the job of getting orders and had to execute
them; doing the role of production coordinator in the same breath, whilst for
others the job was only follow up of the confirmed orders. The merchandisers
had often been used as glorified clerks with the job focusing on passing the
information received from one source to another without any value addition to
it. In the burgeoning market of apparel exports 80`s, Merchandising function
was often assigned to fresh graduated of any discipline who were capable of
responding to the queries of the customers in the English language. No other
qualification was largely sought from them as the work was primarily
decentralized and the merchants needed little technical knowledge. But the
dependency on the technicians was inevitable.

OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

1) To understand the working of various departments in Export House.

2) To understand the role of Merchandisers from acquiring orders till shipment in
an Export House.

METHODOLOGY
During the internship the basic key knowledge is gain through practical training
in Shahi Export in Faridabad. The report is made by collecting the information
and document from Shahi Export. And by the personal experience gain in the
Shahi Exports sampling department. In first week got introduction to company
and its various departments. In second week worked under the merchandiser
following her and got knowledge about the sequence of work to be follow while
producing sample and production of mock .Third and Forth week involved in
production of size set sample of two different styles. Fifth week learned
shipment of samples to buying house and production of preproduction sample
with the instruction by RND. Learned about various departments and started
performing like merchant. Sixth week involved in making production file and
handling over sample for production to production department and started
working on new style. Seventh and eighth week learned to develop proto
sample , fit sample size set sample and communication with buyer and supplier
and the costing and planning of work

COMPANYS OVERVIEW
HISTORY
A Shahi export was born in 1974 in Delhi. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. is engaged in
the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the International
market. It is one of the largest export houses in India. The company started its

operations in the form of a small fabrication unit with the help of 25

machines. The Company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple
fabrication unit to present turnover of USD.500 million, around 66000
employees and spread over 38 locations. It has manufacturing units in six
different states of India viz. Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu,
Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.
The Group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Mens and Ladies wear and
also in Home products. SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with
state-of-the-art technology giving the best to its buyers. Its manufacturing
facilities includes Assembly Line Machines, Prima Vision system for print / fabric
development, Meyer

Fusing

Press,

Barudan

and Tajima

Multi

Head

Computerized Embroidery Machine, GGT International Pattern Grading

Machines,

in

House

Washing

Plant,

Automatic

cutting

machines

(F.K.Systems).

Production Capacity

: 8.5 million -9 million units. per month

Production Lead Time

: 60 / 75 / 90 / 120 days

Turnover of shahi in yr 2012-13

: 2750 crore

Estimated Turnover of shahi in yr

2014
Special Machines/Facalities

: 3200 crore
Embroidery unit - two Barudan machines,
Pigment garment dyeing washing capability
: offering special wash finishes on knitted
garments produced in fine auto-stripes,
jacquards, interlock and jersey.

Name of the Company

: SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD

Address

Telephone No

: 0129-2273980/4044444

Fax No

: 0129-2273485

Industrial Plot No1 Sector-28, Faridabad

,Haryana,India-121008

Email
Website

Primary products

delhi@shahi.co.in
http://www.shahi.co.in
Blouses

,denim,

dresses,

T-shirt,

Jackets/Blazers, Outdoor jackets , scarves,

jewellery, trousers sweat/jersey vests , knits,
leather garment, handbags, belts

Factory established in year

1999

Total no of employees in Faridabad

5845

Unit

Manufacturers & Exporters of Woven & Knit

Nature of Business

Chairman

: Mrs. Sarala Ahuja

Directors

Date of Establishment

: 14th May 1986

Apparel.
Mr.Harish Ahuja, Mr. Girish Ahuja,Mr Subhash
tiwari

Mr. Rajesh Bhatt

Email: rajesh.bhatt@shahi.co.in
Contact Executives

Ms.Sheetal Khanna
Email: sheetal.khanna@shahi.co.in

Mission
o Be the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel.
o Be the most preferred employer in the industry.
o Be a learning organization to improve & excel.
Vision

10

Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of

fashion & feelings of comfort.
Values
o Customer delight
o Integrity & ethics
o Respect for human values
o Nurturing human talent
o Continuous improvement
CORPORATE VALUES
"Guiding principles illuminate the path that leads to our destination.
SHAHI emphasizes on some guiding principles, which are indicative of the
values it believes in and would like to continue in the organization. These are
the building blocks for our Organizational Culture:
The company believes in
o

High level of honesty and sense of responsibility.

Two-way communication channel for all purposes of communication.

o
In sharing the fruit of growth, prosperity with its partners i.e. the
employees.
o

In giving each individual room to contribute and grow.

The company firmly believes that Team Spirit is the Hallmark of success.

MAJOR CLIETS

11

1. Target
2. Gap
3. H&M
4. Tommy Hilfigers
5. J.C Penny
6. Kohls
7. Impulse
8. Streetone
9. S.Oliver
10. DKNY
11. Next
12. Old navy
13. Ann Taylors
14. Walmart
15. Espirit
16. Federated
17. Debenhams
18. J. Crew
19. Abercrombrie & Fitch
20. UCB
21. Levis
22. Bonita
23. Calvin Klein
24. Guess

VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS OF SHAHI EXPORTS

Merchandising Department
12

Sampling Department
Quality control Department
Production Planning and Control Department
Fabric & trims Sourcing Department
Fabric Store and Inspection Department
Trims Store and inspection Department
Purchase Department
HR Department
Accounts finance department
Industrial Engineering Department
Computer Aided Design Department
Computerized Embroidery Department
Cutting Department
Sewing Department
Washing Department
Finishing Department
Packing and Dispatch Department
Shipping Department

Each department in the company works together, that is it works hand in

hand.

ACTIVITIES UNDERTAKEN

ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN SHAHI

Role of Merchandisers in apparel export house

o Key link between the factory and customer.
o Communicating the customer demands
o To ensure and assure quality

13

o Optimally using capabilities of the export house by generating enough

profitable business
Role of merchandisers in ensuring Quality
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

Provide correct and clear information on time to relevant departments

Ensure fabric quality
On time sealer sample availability
Timely preparation of budget for fabric and trims
Make sure to get the sources of accessories and fabric at as early as
sampling stage of the style
Ensure timely trims arrival
Ensure right time submission to buyer to save time and reputation
Ensure timely approval from buyers
Identify possible problem in style and the ways to avoid them
Discuss the style, its target with production team
Conduct / be present for in line inspection to anticipate defects and
avoidance of the same in the future

Role of Merchandiser in customer Satisfaction

o Track customer satisfaction level on regular basis through structured
formats
o Identify the gaps in customer satisfaction by analysing the customer
complaints or routine communication
o Customer feedback in the final inspection report by the customer
o Acquire knowledge on problem solving techniques
o Identify factors that will delight the customer.

DIVISION OF WORK IN MERCHANDISE/ MARKETING

DEPARTMENT

Four main divisions is done in Shahi

1.
2.
3.
4.

Product Development (PD)

Merchandising
Production
Documentation

14

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Product development

Through Designers

Through Buyers

Through Designers
Designers create new design and showcase for buyer. After buyer review they
select and advice to develop the liked design as it is or with some modification
like change in fabric, lace, button, minor design change or even with reduce
price, quality of fabric and trim
Through buyer
Buyer provides their own techpak and accordingly asks for sample
development. After receiving the sample some time they do change or if liked as
it is they place order but very important is costing. Sometime costing meet an
issue so Buyer reduce trims and fabric quality change
Now after the design and cost is approved by Buyer the samples are produced
for that design and these samples are called as Sales Man Sample (SMS).

Sales Man Sample

Merchandiser produces 10 to 50 Sales Man Sample in Base size as per Buyer
requirement and send to buyer. Its goes to market as per customer like Buyer
place order , sometime same design or may be with minor change.
Than the merchandiser part start
MERCHANDISING

15

Merchandiser receive receipt of PO ( purchase order) , they check price

,quantity& colours
1. System entry is done by merchant
Than CO(Customer Order) creation by merchant and send request to DMM for
initial CO approval than DMM approve CO or can say for revise PO and again
CO is made, than DMM do final CO entry and send for Approval and sended for
documentation
2.Trim development , approval taken from buyer than order is placed to Supplier
then the trim are done I/H (in house) then trims go in production
3. Fabric development: its a very curial and important step in production
process as maximum cost of product or garment is of fabric. So first
Design sheet is made is computer for approval for check for example yarn dye
plaid is made

16

In this colours are mentioned intensity of colour is mentioned. Which colour yarn
should be used in which place everything is clearly mention. This is sended for
approval first to buyer for production of or development of fabric.
In the same way fabric prints are sended for approval

17

Computerized Printout of Fabric Print

If buyer approve the design than he may ask for sample for approved colour or
all colours or may say to make change also, by making minor or major changes
then after making change again the print approval is taken from buyer .
After the print approval, supplier makes a desk loom for buyer or merchant
Desk loom is small swatch piece which show the real concept of fabric and how
the actual fabric will look like in actual colour made by actual printing machine
or at actual loom

18

Digital fabric printing machine making desk loom

Actual Deskloom

Deskloom for yarn die plaid

19

After desk loom approval, buyer asks for Yardage.

Yardage is 5 to 15 meters of fabric suppliers send to merchant for approval.
Now here for solid colours is called as lab dip and for prints it is called strike
off
Merchandiser sends L/D or S/Offs to buyer for approval. They may ask for
change in colour of print or they may or may not approve the L/D also. Buyer
give comments also like colour is too yellowish correct it etc.
Then again changes are made until signoff received. Signoff is the final
approved fabric by buyer. Here buyer also asks for FPT as per their norms and
standard. Buyer gives the list of tests he want to be done on fabric.
After signoff the fabric is ordered and in housed my merchant
Now according to the techpack given by buyer the sample are produced

FPT and fabric tests are explained later in Quality process

20

STAGES OF SAMPLE IN MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

This are the different samples made at different stages merchandising process
and after the approval or getting comment and after correction next sample is
produced.

Mock stage: It is a rough layout of the sample which the company is

going to produce. This is made by merchandiser to show the buyer
1. What type of workmanship the company is doing.
2. How the style will look like
3. What are the procedures which merchandiser is going to follow in
production
4. To show certain parts for example collar mock, neck placket mock.

Mock is produce by merchandiser to show the buyer for the approval of

certain design, the changes which buyer want in certain design that look
good or not etc.

Proto stage: after the approval of the mock the merchandiser produce 3
to 4 proto sample which is a complete garment having all the
characteristic and changes which buyer want ,this may or may not be
made on approved final fabric , as this only made to show the final
garment design which is follow-up by approved mock ,in this the seams
and stitches are made according to buyer requirement ,merchandiser
calculate the consumption of raw material and jot down the procedures
which are carried out in the production of that garment so that he can do
costing accordingly. At this stage the first costing is done by
merchandiser. This costing is tentative as the sample is replica of the
final garment and even at this stage nothing is finalised.one sample
merchandiser make as his counter sample one is send to buying house
and one to the buyer.

Sales man sample stage: 10 to 50 sample are made according to buyer

requirement. The buyer asked for this sample because he sells this style
in his store & records the selling of the new style. & if this style is good

21

moving then he gives bulk order, decides quantity, by size & colour wise
break up for the style. In SMS original fabric & trims are used. In SMS
sample its not just that garment is stitched and sended to the buyer. In
SMS also all the procedure which the production follower are done
accordingly. Sample is not only cut stitched and finished and costing is
done, here also the testing and quality checking is done. As the sample
is not experiment it is also sold to final consumer. Approval for SMS is
really crucial to any company. At this stage again costing is done this
costing is base for getting order from buyer as uptil now the buyer did not
place final order so costing and all procedure followed at this stage is
very crucial.

Fit sample stage: Twice or thrice merchandiser make counter or fit

sample until buyer is fully satisfied with the fit of the sample. This sample
is made exactly with the same fabric or trims. The dummy may be
provided by the buyer or made by the export house is very important at
this stage. As this sample is tested for dummy fit. The size of dummy is
also according to the buyer standards and not all dummy can be used for
all buyers, as every country and even every buyer has its own set
standards which are provided before to merchandiser as Buyer manual.

Size set sample stage: In production merchandiser make jump sizes to

check pattern is correct for bulk cutting. The purpose of the size set is to
check fit of the garment in different sizes.in this stage company develops
samples in multiple sizes like 36, 38 and 42 . The buyer check size set
sample and give feedback to company if anything need to be corrected.

Sealer sample stage: the base size sample is made after doing the
changes as per buyer requirement and sended to buyer. After the buyer
give approval. The sample is sealed for production on this merchant right
comment which is to be taken care while production and this sample
must be perfect or correct. This is the sample which represents the final
requirement of the buyer and no changes are made after that .this

22

sample along with production file sended to the production unit. As uptil
now all the raw material likes fabric trims packaging etc. things are
already in house for production.

Sealer Sample

Pre-production sample stage : All the above samples are made in

sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample)
to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what are
they going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and
accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample must be
approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior
to proceeding actual production.

TOP sample stage: Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in
the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP

23

sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check
whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.
Production
File is made for giving in production in which everything is clearly mentioned
o
o
o
o
o
o

o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

PSD sheet(Project Style Details)

Fabric count/ construction, FBC Lots
Threads(shade no, ticket no, tex no) for all operations
EMB thread
Trim card (labels and buttons)
Final mini marker
Shell
Lining /Pocketing
Fusing
Operation Bulletin
Final teck pack
Buyer PO Sheet
2-Sealed Sample
EMB placement /Approved mock or Swatch
Approved FBC swatch
Approved Fusing Swatch with detail
Base pattern
Final Grading Sheet
Thread consumption report
FPT all Clear
GPT all Clear
Washing Details + wash STD
Ironing Detail
Packing Instruction
TNA
FAB for R&D

In time action plan merchandiser gives time to production to make bulk. As

delivery is very important .Production need to plan shipment as per delivery
date.
Documentation
Merchant have to inform documentation department 10 to 15 days before
shipment of style. They talk to forwarders for shipment date and plan domestic
transport than through Ship or Air Shipment.

24

Other Documents used in merchandising process

The following are the documents used in course of the process.

Marker request
Pattern request
Sample request
TRS (Trims Requisition)
FRS (Fabric Requisition)
Work order
Purchase order
o Fabric PO
o Trims PO
Purchase Invoice
FPT (Fabric packaging test report)
GPT (Garment packaging test report)

The document or form is filled in the CRM to which is also called PO which
comprise of Marker Request, Pattern request and Sample Request. Sample
request comprise of all the process required for producing the sample that is
from washing the fabric to pressing to cutting stitching finishing and packing.
Trim Requisition and fabric requisition is a form which merchant fill and request
the store operator to issue as per requirement. This is hand written and signed
by merchant. Work order or operation bulletin is made by IT department for
calculation of SAM and also for the number of operator required for the
fulfilment of producing the garment. Example of one of the operation bulletin is
attached in Annexure. PO means purchase order it is a sheet given by buyer
which depict the total quantity required with specification of style no and colour
or any addition requirements .Fabric PO ensure the quality and quantity with
specification of colour and print required by merchant for production. Purchase
Invoice is actually a bill in which quantity and price with design code is written.
FPT &GPT is the most important document for any export house, these are the
test report which is attached to the document for shipment, given to the buyer,
and even needed by export house to ensure its quality, this is very important as
the export has to ensure the government that the product they are shipping to
the other country is as per the rules of that country and requirement of the
buyer.

25

Sample production by merchant

Sample production

Sourced fabric, trim

for sample

Tech pack given to

CAD for pattern
making

FPT

Pattern given for

plotting

RFD /cotton fabric etc

dip washed for
shrinkage

PO is made

Tech pack given for

SAM calculation

PO given for in work

Pattern and fabric
given for cutting

GPT

26

Garment
Buyer approval
given
to QA
Cutting
,trims
send given
to
for
final
check
finishing
stitching
/wash
and
dummy
if requied

Costing is done by
merchandiser

SOURCING OF RAW MATERIAL

Two most important things before production are

Sourcing of trim and

Sourcing of fabric

The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.
On the other hand we can say that which materials are directly attached with
the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining,
Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is used as shape forming
/ preserving materials.)Trims are sourced before production trims are order
according to the requirement. Every trim has its own unique way to buy and
prices and Quality inspection techniques for example thread are bought on
scale of tex or tickets. Button are bought in Goss and weight, zippers and laces

27

are bought length wise and labels are bought numerically according to the need
or requirement

SL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23

Trims
Label (S)
Button
Zipper
Padding
Interlining
Down
Elastic
Thread
Twill Tape
Stopper
String/ Draw Cord
Piping Cord
Emblem
Logo print
D-Ring
Swivel Hook
Eyelet/ Grommet
Collar Stay
Cord Bell
Buckle
Rivet
Weaving belt
Hook & Eye

SL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23

Accessories
Poly bag
Elastic bag
Mini Poly bag
Master Carton
Inner carton
Size clip
P. P. band
Tag pin
Brass pin
Collar stand
Safety pin
Gum tape
Arrow sticker
Scotch tape
Barcode Sticker
Defect indicator
Tissue paper
Back board
Neck board
Butterfly
Numbering stickers
Hanger
Size sticker

24

Velcro tape

24

Carton pad

25

Seam sealing tape

25

Both side tape

26

Shoulder pad

26

Plastic staple

27

Cable (Steel ware)

27

Iron seal

28

Adjuster

28

Clip

29

Recco

29

Ball Chain

30

Elastic Threads

30

Size Tag

31

Shoulder Tape

31

Carton Sticker

32

Safety Sticker

33

Plastic clip

28

The most important and crucial part of garment production is sourcing of fabric.
As fabric supply decides and disturbs the time and action plan, cost of the
garment and all the process of production. According to the style and purchase
order quantity the fabric is order to the supplier or vendor. In Shahi they have
their own fabric production company that is Sarla fabric and there are other
vendors who suuply fabric to Shahi export like

Karma process
RMP
BVM
Jagdamba
fabric
Shahi dyeing

Shivam

Devansh
City TEX
Aayushi Fabric
R.S Expo
G.G Fashion

Poorani Fab
SVT
Dhuhil

International
SRS Fabric

Fabric is supplied by the vendors, proper charts are maintained for the vendor
supplies the time of order and delivery dates.

The order quantity and time of delivery is noted in the software when the
fabric is IN/Housed and and at what place it is placed. Before storing the
fabric in the store the fabric is tested for its quality different production
houses use different technique and scales the SHAHI EXPORT follow 4
point system. Fabric if come in small quantity than the lots is checked

29

manually.

And if the lots are large then they have a checking machine.

30

Here the fabric is checked for different defects mark it with stickers and also
not it down in files. According to the vendors Shahi has some acceptable
standards also. Defects which mainly come in fabrics are
Weaving defect

Contamination
Stitch mark
Needle mark
Wrong yarn
Loops
Stop mark

Missing pick
Reed mark
Missing end
Slub
Yarn slippage

Finishing defect

Smash
Handling stain
Pin hole

31

Miss pleating
Yarn pulling
Distortion

As the fabric is physically checked some swatches is given to laboratory for

FPT. There different test are performed on fabric according to shahi and
buyer requirements and if the fabric pass all the test then only it is in
housed and use for our requirements.

FABRIC STORE PROCESS

32

FOR SARLA FABRIC

*100% Inspection by
Shahi QA team
FOR
FOR POWER
POWER LOOM
LOOM
FABRIC *10%
Inspection
Inspection
*100% shade lot

Passed fabric is moved to

passed location

33

CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Fabric is issued from fabric store and given to cutting department her before
spreading fabric is washed for shrinkage if required than it is steam pressed if
required than is spread to spreading table according to the marker made.
Spreading of fabric is done both mechanically and by machine according to the
requirement. Spreading of solid cotton is mainly done by machine as not much
complication are there in solid fabric and the spreading time reduce to 1/10 by
mechanics by spreading machine so its cost and time effective

Spreading requirement

Shade Sorting
Correct ply direction and
adequate lay stability

Ply alignment
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults

Than marker is passed which is already design by CAD in a most cost effective
manner and according to the features of fabrics including fabric defects

34

Then the marker is attached to fabric my pins and tape. After that the fabric is
cut my portable knife or by stationary knife by the experience worker

Mainly small pieces are cut by stationary cutter for better result.

Another method in Shahi is automized cutting machine which reduces the time
and is most effective as the error is less in automized cutting machine.

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After cutting each pattern or bundle are ticketed, in each ticket style no. ,chalan
no and lot no and size no is mentioned clearly so that no confusion occurs in
production.

After ticketing the bundles are made according to the style number size number
and lot number which is then send to the stitching department or embroidery or
printing department as per requirement.

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STITCHING DEPARTMENT
Bundles of cutting came to stitching room with trims and samples.QA came and
tell the requirement and give adequate instructions to the stitching line
supervisors.
In Shahi each line have 16 to 20 stitching master over to them there are 1 to 2
supervisors. Sheetal madam merchandise and production unit have 2 lines
allotted. Line division is very necessary and is done according to the order
quantity. The biggest the order quantity the more is the no of lines u get. All
these arrangements are planned by the merchandiser.
In sampling unit each stitching master on an average stitch two garment in a
day and on an average 25 to 30 unit of garment in one line depending upon
difficulty level of the garment.
Shahi has all needed and specialised machine to make quality garments. Shahi
has following sewing machine

Single needle lock/chain stitch

Double needle lock/chain stitch
3 thread overlock / pearl hem
Four thread overlock
Five thread overlock
Six thread overlock
Flat lock machine

Smocking machine
Pintek machine
Fagotting machine
Peko machine
Blind hem
Computerized zig zag machine
Feed of farm ( for side stitch)

Shahi has 1000 operator and 1500 stitching machine

Other machines which the stitching department have are as follows

Collar turning machine

Belt making machine
Profile cutter

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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Garment after stitching send to finishing as per operation bulletin. Then in

finishing garment is send for checking first where the checker see the sizes and
if any major defect exist in garment then garment is rejected and send to QA for
inspecting the cause of defect .if minor defect is diagnosed or detected than the
garment is send for alteration . All garments are not checked fully it up to
checker .QA randomly select the garment and check it. Than the garment is
marked for kajh and given for kajh making or as per processes planed . Than
buttons is tucked than thread cutting first where all extra thread are cut .After
that garment is send to spotting table or washing where spots are removed.
In addition to finishing processes on textile garments would undergo washing
processes that give them different handle or special color effects. The washing
technique has developed and expanded considerably to become a finishing
process of its own.
The most common equipment is the rotary drum type garment washer. The most
popular item by far in garment washing is indigo denim jeans but there is an
increasing trend for other casual wear items to be finished using this process.
There are a number of different washing techniques commonly used and the basic
procedures where the garments are washed are described in the following

Traditional garment wash

This elevated temperature to yield a soft hand. In case of jeans made from
indigo or sulphur slasher-dyed denims, it is necessary to remove the sizes (e.g.,
starch) by an enzyme (amylase) desizing treatment. Colour fading will be
occurred and the degree will depend on the treatment conditions, such as time,
temperature and liquor ratio of washing bath.
Stone wash
To accelerate the washing effect, pumice or volcanic stones can be added for
abrasion purposes. There are available today man-made stones of various
sizes and shapes. When compared with the traditional garment wash, colour
fading is more pronounced but less uniform. In addition to the treatment
conditions as described for traditional garment wash, the degree of colour
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fading and change of garment hand feel depends very much on the stone ratio
to fabric weight which can vary from 0.5 to 3: 1.
'White' washes
This category of washing technique is a variation of basic stone wash procedure
and is normally applied to indigo-dyed jeans but can also be applied to other
vat-, sulphur-or reactive-dyed garments. It can further be divided into two major
groups according to its application methods.
The first involves the use of strong oxidizing agents such as sodium
hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for bleaching the garments. The use
of these agents is to obtain a much lighter shade than the previous two
methods. Excess oxidizing agents must be removed after washing to prevent
yellowing and tendering of the washed jeans.
In the second group of methods, the pumice stones are first pre-soaked in a
solution of strong oxidizing agent (either sodium hypochlorite or potassium
permanganate) and are applied to the garments by dry-tumbling. This will result
in a localized washing effect with clear blue/white contrast. This is also termed
as 'acid wash', 'snow wash' or 'ice wash'.
Enzyme washes
Cellulose enzymes are commonly used in this washing method. These
enzymes differ from that of amylase, used for removal of starches, in that they
are only selective to cotton of other cellulosic materials. Hydrolysis of the
cellulose causes the fiber to become weaker and depending on the degree of
treatment, some surface fibers will be removed when subjected to fabric-tofabric or fabric-to-stone abrasive action. This washing method tends to produce
a more level treatment especially when no stones are added during treatment
and the general appearance and hand feel are superior to those of the other
methods.
Then again garments are send to spotting where spots are removed. Than
garment is send for ironing .different type of iron is done according to the
garment and fabric type like

39

Hard iron
Soft iron with steam
Steam iron

After iron garment is send to final checking where thread ,finishing and all
features are finally checked than garment is packed as per buyer requirement
and some garment sample are send to the lab for GPT.

QUALITY PROCESS
Quality Lab

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Equipment necessary to ensure basic parameters of fabrics is available in the

in-house laboratory. There technically-qualified and competent quality control
personnel make sure that international quality standards and norms are
rigorously adhered to.
List of Machines in Lab
PHYSICAL TESTING
Tensile Strength Tester

POSSIBILITY OF TESTS :

Strip & Grab Strength

Single Yarn Strength

Tear Test

Button/Snap Pull Test

Seam Slippage

Zipper Strength

Peel Bond Strength

Stretch & Recover

Fabric Thickness Gauge

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Specialized equipment to determine the thickness of fabrics.

Latest model with modern aesthetics.

Maximum capacity 10mm & accuracy 0. 01mm.

Portable & handy to carry anywhere.

Smooth precision-engineered components for accurate results.

Analog dial for measuring thickness in millimetres.

Supplied with two pressure feet of different size for different type of
fabrics.

A standard Dead weight is provided with the instruments for accurate

result.

Crease Recovery Angle Tester

Crease Recovery Tester determines the property of textiles to recover from

creases by measurement of the recovery angle. Crease Recovery Tester at BTex Engineering is calibrated and of fine quality.

42

The specimen is first creased under specified load for fixed time and is then
transferred to the measurement device, where one end of the specimen is held
in a spring loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight.
Now one need to read the scale fixed to moving clamp to know the deflection of
the clamped end from the horizontal. This angle gives the measure of the
Crease Recovery Angle.
Beasley Balance

Beasley Balance is used to measure direct yarn count

Pilling tester

Pilling Tester is designed to test the pilling (hair ball) characteristic of fabric and
knit fabric cloths. Simulating the condition of when weaving materials are worn,
it will have the appearance of lint. After rolling the specimen around a rubber
tube and turning in a winding box for a period of time, it is then compared to a
standard picture to determine its grade. Test results are usually determined after
comparing with standard pictures, the average of four tests per specimen.

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Thread count for reed/pick

Projection microscope

The projection microscope is the standard method for measuring wool fibre
diameter, and all other methods have to be checked for accuracy against it. The
method is also applicable to any other fibres with a circular cross-section
Martindale abrasion tester

To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures.
Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in

44

continuously changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is

compared against standard parameters.
Crock-o- meter

Crock o-meter is also known

as Rubbing fastness tester and is used to

measure color fastness of fabric on rubbing. This test is designed for

determining the degree of colour which may be transferred from the surface of
coloured materials to other surfaces by rubbing. The machine takes its name
from the term crocking meaning the transfer of colouring matter or other
substances from the test sample to a wet or dry cloth rubbed against it
MBTL Light fastness tester

MBTL fading lamp is used in order to determine colour fastness of textiles

against sunlight

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Tear strength tester

Perspiro meter
Sublimation fastness tester
Digital incubator
Twist tester
Wrap reel
IFB front loaded washing machine for shrinkage

Testings Carried out in Laboratory

The following tests are performed at various stages to ensure that the finished
product conforms to specifications. Physical Section
Fiber

Yarn
Fiber Identification

Yarn twist

Blend Percentage

Yarn count

Maturity of Cotton
Fabric
Fabric construction

Strength

Color fastness

Fabric serviceability

Dimensional stability
Fabric Construction
A) Reed/pick

B) Yarn count

C) Yarn twist

D) Fabric width

E) Gsm
Strength

F) Fabric gauge

A) Tear strength ASTM method

Color Fastness

B) Tensile strength ASTM method

A) Washing fastness AATCC method

B) Fastness to crocking AATCC

C) Sublimation fastness AATCC

method

method

D) Perspiration fastness AATCC

E) Light fastness AATCC method

method

G) Sea water fastness AATCC method F) Chlorine fastness AATCC method

H) Fastness to solvent AATCC method

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Fabric serviceability
A) Fabric drape ASTM method

B) Crease recovery angle ASTM

C) Pilling property ASTM method

method

E) Abrasion resistance ASTM method D) Fabric shrinkage ASTM method

F) Seam strength & seam slippage
ASTM method
Dimensional stability
A) Shrinkage

B) Skew rotation

C) Skew percentage
Chemical and auxiliaries

Dyes and pigments

Percentage purity

Performance test

Moisture content

Stability

Solid content
pH of the solution
Viscosity

Water

Ionic nature

Ph

Compatibility

Chemical oxygen demand (c.o.d.)

Stability (ph, temperature, time)

Hardness

Nature of impurities

Chloride content

Performance test

Sulfate ion content

Density of the solution

Total dissolve solid (T.D.S.)

Calorific value
Process control checks

Total suspended solids (T.S.S.)

Computer color matching section

Pick-up of each padder

Caustic pick-up of mercerizes

In coming dyes, pigment and

related auxiliaries testing.
Recipe prediction

Dye and chemical ratio of cold

Shade comparison

pad batch machine

Quality of silicate solution

Color solution dispensing

Efficiency of IR dryer
In process trouble shooting

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48

COSTING & CALCULATION

Garment Costing
Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling
price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing....
Freight
Both air transport and sea transport are commonly used in delivering goods
from one country to another. However, the calculation for the charges of air
freight and sea freight are different, as follows:
Conversion Table
Yard to meter, Inch to Centimetre, Yard square to meter square..... Garments
Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling
price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing.
The costing will be determined by a few relevant criteria, as the cost breakdown
will vary according to:

The business nature of the company. (e.g., trading office, manufacturer)

The payment conditions applied (e.g., F.O.B, C.I.F)
The manufacturing conditions applied (e.g., CMT, CM) &
The types of garments the company produces (e.g., woven , cut & sewn
knits, sweater)Since in the industry there are no two organizations or
factories that function in exactly the same way, methods of garment
costing vary from company to company, tailored to the individual's
requirement. However, the same data is necessary no matter
dissimilarities exist or not.

Basic Shirt / Jacket

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[ A Length, B 1/2Chest, C - Sleeve Length, D Arm hole, E - Hood ]

Fabric consumption for shirt Z
Z=X+Y
X = (A+3) x (B+3) x 2
Y = (C+2) x (2D+2) x (E+2) x 2
Exam:
Highest Length of the shirt = 30
Chest length (1/2 of Total length) = 20
Sleeve length = 25
Arm hole (1/2) = 9.5
X = (31+3) x (20+3) x 2 = 1564
Y = (25+2) x (2x9.5+2) x 2 = 1134
Z = X+Y
= 1564 + 1134
= 2698
Now divided by fabric width
Say fabric width 45
So, Z = 2698 / 45 = 59.955
Now merchandiser convert it inch to yds
So, 59.955/36 = 1.66 yds / Pc

Basic Pant / Trouser

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[H Length or height of the pant, J Width through cross line]

Pant = P
P = (H+4) x (J+2) x 4
Say,
H 42 , J 13.5
(42+4) x (13.5 + 2) x 4
P = 2852
= 2852/56 (Fabric width)
= 50.93/36 ( yds)
= 1.41 yds / Pc
Sweater
Yarn weight + wastage % = consumption
FABRIC COST
Purchase of finished fabric
Fabric cost per unit garment
= Finished fabric cost per yard x (1 + finance charge %) x fabric consumption
per
unit garment in yard
Or
= Finished fabric cost per meter x (1 + finance charge %) x fabric consumption
per unit garment in meter
For example,

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The production of a piece of blouse needs 2 meter of 100% cotton sheeting

fabric @
Rs 10.0 per meter. The finance charge is at 5% per meter. Then,
Fabric cost per blouse = Rs 10.0/meter x (1 + 5%) x 2 meter = Rs 21.0
Purchase of greige fabric which needs to be further processed
The calculation is similar to that for finished fabric but processing charges (such
as printing, dyeing and finishing) need to be added.
In Shahi merchandiser calculate the fabric cost by taking the average fabric
consumption provided by CAD in marker planning and adding wastage in it,
multiply by cost of fabric
YARN COST
Normally, yarn cost per unit garment is calculated by multiplying the yam
consumption per unit garment
In Shahi merchandiser give style techpack to IE and they calculate the total
consumption of yarn, which is then feeded in software CRM for costing.
PRODUCTION COST
As for different types of garment, the production cost will be charged differently
according to the different manufacturing procedures and the level of technology
employed (such as computerized system vs. manual system) in the operation.
However, in most cases, the manufacturer only quotes the total CMT cost to the
buyer without disclosing the breakdown of costs involved in each operation.
In

Shahi, SAM is calculated by IE department, as merchandiser provide

teckpack and style to IE department they do operation breakdown and allocate

operator for each operation and give the average time for each operation. SAM
is standard allocated minutes which is calculated by experience d person in this
field . They know and they have down research and recorded the average time

52

in doing each operation and they also manipulate the operation accordingly and
make calculation for that. Generally in Shahi they have slabs for efficiency and
they calculate SAM in two way

Software
o General sewing data
o Prosuit
Manual
Minutes x rating like 80% (efficiency slab) + Allowance

FORMULA FOR SAM COST IN SHAHI

SAM/efficiency %

x 100 x 1.52 +20

OTHER COSTS
Besides fabric cost and production cost, to determine the actual garment cost in
FOB prices several costs have to be included as follows:

Local transportation
Documents
Quota

Duty
Miscellaneous
Profit margin

In Shahi its little different as some more cost are also included in it like fuel
electricity, salaries& incentives etc are also included

53

The equation to calculate the cost of a garment is :

Fabric cost + Trims & Acc cost + Production cost +packaging cost + Local
transportation cost + Document + overhead +finance charge +govt incentives =
Per unit garment FOB Price

54

GLOBAL LOGISTIC
CBM Cubic Meter
NOVCC Non Vessel Operated Cargo Carrier
FCL Full Container Load
LCL Less Container Load
ETA Expected Time of Arrival
ETD Expected Time of Departure
Sea
CBM = Length X Width X Height (CM) / 1000000 X total No. of ctn = Length X
Width X Height (Inch) / (1728*35.32)
Air
a. 7000 Cubic CM = 1 Kilo
b. 6000 Cubic CM = 10 Kilo ( for Bangladesh)
1. Length X Width X Height (CM) / 6000 = Kilo
2. Length X Width X Height (Inch) / 366 = Kilo
** Volume weight per carton (Kg) X Number of carton X Cost of Air freight per
Kg = Caring cost / Air

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CARTON
Type of carton

DEPEND ON PAPER

DEPEND ON STITCHING

3. DEPEND ON PLY

DEPEND ON LINER

DEPEND ON SIZE

Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton

Duplex Carton
Box Carton
Stitching Carton
Now stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or
Metal Free Carton
3 Ply Carton
5 Ply Carton
7 Ply Carton
Both Side Liner Carton
Out Side Liner Carton
Master Carton
Inner Carton

CARTON CONSUMPTION & COSTING CALCULATION

Formula = ( Length x Width ) X ( Width x High ) x 2 + Wastage

DOCUMENTATION FOR SHIPMENT

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When merchandiser refers to documentation in the process of export,

merchandiser usually refers to the preparation of documents which the shipper
uses to collect money for the goods shipped. Therefore, this is the final of the
transaction and an important step.
Depending on how the payment term is set up between you and your buyer,
merchandiser should prepare the documents accordingly. However, no matter it
is L /C payment or DP, DA or open account, you must prepare your documents
to satisfy the following parties.
1) The buyers bank who has open the L /C to you if it is L /C payment,
otherwise you will have delay in receiving the proceeds of the goods you have
shipped.
2) The customs, otherwise you will have delay in clearing the goods through
customs.
3) Giving buyer the correct information in all respect, particularly all the packing
details in order to enable him to distribute the merchandise correctly to the retail
stores

INTERNATIONAL CARE LABELING

57

The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX) has

developed a language-independent care labelling system in 1975.
With an aim to promote voluntary care labelling on international basis, the
GINETEX care labelling system (or international care labelling system) mainly
uses symbols to provide care instructions. ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of
reference for the use of these symbols.
The system consists of five basic symbols and their full descriptions are shown
in the following
Washing

58

LEARNING OUTCOMES

59

The purpose of industrial training is to acclimatize the students with the

organization & the industry in which this organization exits. Summer training is a
very important for each and every student .trainee are trained in such a way that
after they come out, they manage the matter of organization in a planned and
systematic manner. project is aimed at understanding the basics of export
house. It include how an export order is processed and what all procedure we
need to follow in the export of the garment. Training was a valuable experience
in terms of understanding & learning & in future believe it will get fruitful result
Key Learning Experience
1. Role of merchant in producing samples
2. Planning and control
3. Product knowledge including Fabric and trims
4. Interface with buyer
5. Costing
6. Filing the documentation
7. Arranging of material/trim fabric chemical etc in producing garment
8. Interface with supplier
9. Quality checks points
10. New techniques and products use for reducing the non-value adding
activities

CONCLUSION

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During internship built upon the understanding, Merchandiser main role is follow
up of his/her own time action plan, understanding the requirements of different
departments and organising solution for it. Merchandiser should have enough
knowledge about Fabric, Trims, Costing and calculation, Inquiry Sheet,
Purchase Order Sheet, requisition forms, and other test methods and also
operation which are non-value adding. Merchandiser must know the sequence
of the operation by working in different department of export house.
Merchandiser acts as a link between the buyer and the manufacturer. It is
his/her responsibility of ensuring that the product is developed as per the
requirements of the buyer. Merchandiser must have good communication skill
as it is his responsibility to source raw material and services, producing sample,
getting approval on samples and communicating with the buyer. Merchandiser
is also the like between the production and the buying agent or buying house.
Merchandiser work on number of styles at a same time ensuring that the
production been done as per schedule and inculcate the solution of all the
problems and expectation of buyer by arranging things required by the buyer as
convenient as possible.

61