Intro

This DIY will walk through, in detail, the steps that I took in creating my
retrofits. This will be covered in 2 parts. The first part will include
disassembling, cutting, test fitting, and bonding the housing. The second
part will include mounting, modifying the covers, sealing up, and wiring.
Words of Advice (Thanks to oneskll)
Quote, originally posted by oneskll
Just wanted to add my $.02.
First of all if you want to do a retrofit it will take a lot of time, a
good amount of skill, a little knowledge, and a ton of patience!
Here is some advice I wish I had when doing my first two sets,
by the third I have pretty much gotten the hang of it.
1) the smaller the projector, the easier it will be (small as in the
length from the lense to the back where you place the bulb),
2) test fit everything on every step of the way!
3) if you use jbweld make sure you make it look as perfect as
you can before it dries since sanding is a bitch and the little
corners are hard to get to (if you need use jbquick and painters
tape to stop it from dripping everywhere),
4) line up the housing you make with the blinker/fog this will
help you in the long run when adjusting the projector,
5) make sure the projector doesn't touch the housing in the back
so you can use the stock adjusters or you will be sorry when you
haveto adjust them,
6) take your time!
7) if you do mess up a little satin-black or semi-gloss black will
hide your mistakes alot better then gloss or flat which will show

all the imperfections

8) make sure you start with a perfect headlights lense, because
that is the only thing that is not an easy fix if scratched or
messed up.
9) take your time!
10) since you need alot of time and space to do this make sure
you have an extra set of headlights to have on your car or you
will rush through it and screw it up!
Anyway good luck!

Difficulty Level: Medium; Need to be good with your hands and

have a little creativity.
Tools / Parts Used
Lighting
-(2) OEM E46 Bi-xenon projectors w/ solenoid/cut-off shield (3-wire) and
D2S bulb holders - $110 - Use E55 Bi-xenon projectors over the E46
if possible. Makes mounting a lot easier.
Note: The E55 projectors are easier to mount as they are more
proportional
-D2S 35W Ballast with built-in ignitors
-D2S Bulbs - 6K
-Set of Jetta headlights without fogs - $85
Wiring
-Power relay - $30
-VW Repair Wire - $4.90 (Part #: 000 979 133)
-(2) Solinoid Controllers - 3-wire to 2-wire circuit board/pigtails - $18
Misc.
-(2) 3" ID (Inside Diameter) PVC - $12
-JB Weld (A lot) - $12 Fusor is a better choice - JB Weld will crack
over time
-Outdoor silicon
-(8) #10 Wood Screws - 1-1/4" - $9

-3/16" Flat washers (A lot) - $6

-Krylon Satin Black spray paint - $6
-Permanent marker
Extras
-Dual turn signals w/ Amber lenses - $35 (Thanks to Underground VW
Parts )
-3" Shrouds - $46 off eBay
Tools
-Wide flathead screwdriver
-T-15 Torx Drive (For turn signals and fogs)
-T-10 Torx Drive
-Dremel or some sort of dynamic cutting device
-Oven/Hairdryer/Heat gun
-Solder / Iron / Electrical tape
Total Spent: ~$500
Steps
Part I
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5

Disassemble Headlamps
Cuttin' Sh*t Up
Preparing Projectors for Test Fitting
Test Fitting
Bonding the Housing

Part II
Step 6 - Extras
Step 7 - Mounting Projectors
Step 8 - Modifying Covers
Step 9 - Wiring
Step 10 - Finishing Touches
Step 1 - Disassemble Headlamps:
I am using regular OEM Jetta headlamps, without fogs.

Start by removing the metal clips that help to hold the lens to the
housing:

Then you need to remove the covers on the back along with rubber drain
hoses:

Next remove the wiring harness to the turn signals and low/high beam
bulb. Then pull the bulbs out.

Use either a heat gun/hairdryer or oven to loosen the sealant. I used the
oven. Preheat to 175-200F, then put in one headlamp. Lens should not
make contact with anything in the oven. I also used a cookie sheet to sit
the headlamp on. Leave it in for 60-90sec, pull it out and use a wide
flathead screwdriver and start to pry apart one corner of the lamp. Once
you get it to where you can get a good grip on it, start using your hands
to pull the lens apart from the housing.

Now we need to separate the reflector shield from the housing. There are
to 2 "ball-joint" like fasteners. Basically you just need to pull hard at the
joints and they will pop off. Pics below shows the joints.

Now to remove the wiring from the stock lamps. There are 2 wide and 2
narrow security clips on the back of the harness plug. Start with the 2
wide clips; press them and move the harness plug half way out of its'
place. Then do the 2 narrow clips to completely remove the plug.

The stock 9007 plug will not fit through the hole, so you will need to cut it
off.

On the reflector shield, remove the turn signal housing/lens by removing

the 3 T-15 screws.

Then remove the black supporting bracket by unscrewing the T-15 screw:

Then release the security clip on the other end of the bracket and it will
come off with a little pulling:

On the headlight lens you need to remove the surround for painting later.
There are 6 T-10 screw holding it to the lens. Remove those and it will
come out in 2 pieces.

Step 2 - Cuttin' Sh*t Up

Taking the 3" ID PVC connector start to take measurements and trace an
outline of the outside diameter of PVC connector onto the back of the
reflector shield.

I used a Dremel to make smooth and precise cuts. Once the hole is cut
put the PVC connector up to it and start to grind away at the hole until
the PVC connector can slide through.

Step 3 - Preparing Projectors for Test Fitting

Bought my OEM E46 projectors and bulb holders off eBay. Received them
3 days later in great condition:

I started by disassembling them to remove the lenses and start to get

measurements. There are (4) T-15 torx screws holding the lens and
frame. Remove these bolts carefully, not to drop the frame and lens. Then
separate from the rest of the housing:

Next, on the inside of the lens frame you can see how the lens is being
held into place. First, push back the safety bends with a pair of pliers or if
your a badass, with your fingers:

Now, you will see the metal safety ring sitting on the lens. Simply go for
the middle of the ring (opposite of the ring gap) and gently pull up.
Continue around the ring until it comes out. Then, using your fingers hold
the lens in place while you turn the frame 180* and gently lift it off the
lens:

I then cleaned the lens and made sure there were no scratches or breaks,
wrapped them up and put them in safe keeping until later on:

Once they are separated the solenoid and cut-off shield will easily slide
forward and off the housing:

Step 4 - Test Fitting

Taking the lens frame and a 3" ID PVC sit it inside to see how it is going
to fit. I needed to make 2 notches in the PVC connector because the lens
frame has 2 legs that extrude past 3" in diameter.

Now to test fit the projector housing. I will be using 1-1/4" #10 wood
screws and 3/16" washers to mount it in place.
Note: I painted the PVC fittings before test fitting; which shouldn't be
done because of scratching/blemishing the paint while test fitting.

2 of the holes line up to the slot on the PVC and 2 hang over a little. In
order to mount the other 2 I used some brackets - same brackets that
hold the 1.8T engine cover to the valve cover - and used a metal grinder
to grind away whatever needed for it to sit flush.

Now to paint whatever needs to be painted. I will be painting the PVC

connectors, lens frames, reflector shield and surrounds. I am using
Krylon Satin Black. I lightly sanded the surfaces before painting. Then a
couple coats of paint should be good.

During drying times I cleaned up the lenses.I used a flathead screwdriver

to scrap away most of it. Then finished it off using some GooGone. Finally
I washed the lenses and this is the result after 1 round of polishing.

Step 5 - Bonding the Housing

I first sat the PVC fitting in the reflector housing. Then I made sure the
PVC was in the correct orientation; both horizontal and vertical. Below
shows correct orientation.

Once the orientation was set I mixed up with JB Weld and applied all the
away around. This coat was kind of thin, so I will be putting another layer
on.
Note: JB Weld will crack over time. It is better to use an
automotive repair adhesive like Fusor.

Once the JB Weld has set up I added another coat of paint.

I have also recently decided to grab some shrouds off eBay. Grabbed
them for $46 shipped.

Since the shrouds will require me to sit the lens and frame further out the
front of the PVC fitting I needed to cut complete notches. I also needed to
sand down the lip on the PVC fitting so it was flush with the rest in order
for the shroud to fit properly.

Then I needed to shave a little off the inner sides in order for the cut-off
shield to drop without interference. It just takes a lot of testing, marking,
and cutting. These are not the easiest projectors to deal with.