54

A file photo of the founding

family of the ancient Tocen
Goshoboh, Arima Onsen.

LESS IS MORE
BY PRIYANKA PRADHAN

JAPANS OLDEST SPA TOWN PROVIDES FOR A

SPIRITUAL ZEN HONEYMOON GETAWAY.
Its fascinating to see the relevance of
ancient Japanese philosophy even today,
as it resonates across the natural theatre
of Arima Onsen, and ricochets off the
Spartan, zen-inspired homes of this hilltop
town. As it turns out, Arima Onsen, which
lies in the Kobe region of Japan, is not only
the countrys oldest natural hot springs
spa-town, but is also a slice of mystique,
folklore and philosophy.
Im sitting at the quaintly decked out,
yet ultra-modern luxury ryokan, the
Arimasansoh Goshobessho Hot Springs
resort, waiting for an induction into the
ancient Japanese tradition of onsen (hot
springs) community bath. My eyes wander
towards a bright, somewhat circular
emblem across the room.
Its like a wheel - a circular device with
spokes that converge at a central point,
Kazushige Kanai, the young scion of
Arima Onsens most prominent business
families, follows my gaze and attempts
to explain. He introduces himself as
CEO apprentice for his familys ancestral

properties, the Arimasansho Goshobessho

resort and ancient parent property, Tocen
Goshoboh, before continuing.
What do you see at the centre of the
wheel? Nothing! he says passionately.
Its an empty space - a functional
nothingness. Its functional because this
nothingness is what makes the wheel
useful to man. How would you attach
the wheel to anything if it wasnt for this
empty space in the centre?
He continues, According to Japanese
philosophers, people, and things, should
have a certain emptiness at the core, in
order to understand, appreciate and serve
a purpose. The wheel-like emblem for our
resort follows the same philosophy.
Arimasansoh Goshobessho, the hot
springs spa resort thats responsible for
launching us into the throes of philosophy,
is innocuously tucked away atop the steep
slopes of Arima, just a few steps from his
familys ancient spa, Tocen Goshoboh.
The latter was established as far back
as the 12th century Kamakura period in

FOCUS / 55
Im wondering whether to
plunge into the pool of steaming
hot, reddish-gold waters of the
onsen, or simply return to the
reassuring confines of my villa.
One of the many
natural hot springs in
Arima Onsen.

The hot spring

community
bathhouse (separate
for both sexes)
at Arimasansoh
Goshobessho,
Arima Onsen.

Japanese history, lying adjacent to the only

hot-spring bathhouse of Arima at the time.
Today, with more than 30 inns and
onsen resorts, Arima Onsen is known to
be a haven for alternative therapy as well
as spirituality. For Arima locals, however,
the therapeutic powers of hot springs are
mythical.
According to the history of the ancient
Tousen Jinja (shrine) in Arima, two Shinto
gods discovered Arima Onsen more than
1300 years ago. When they passed by the
town, they happened to see three injured
crows drink water from an onsen pool they were immediately healed, much to
the astonishment of the gods. Legend has
it that these three crows of Arima were
then considered supernatural and became
the only birds permitted to live in the
town.
A few yards uphill from the
Goshobessho, lies the same shrine, which
takes more than 50 rugged stone steps
to climb. Cloaked in silence, the shrine
houses the protecting deity of Arima
Onsen and has the three crows carved into
the entrance doorway. Wooden wishing
plaques called Ema brush against each

other and water gushes out of an elaborate

tsukubai (stone basin), marking the only
two sounds heard across the compound.
A peek inside the sanctum sanctorum
reveals a very simple and beautiful design,
with a prominent empty space in the
centre, reiterating the ancient Japanese
perspective of less is more.
Back at the resort, Im staring at another
sparsely furnished space - the community
onsen bathhouse. Im wondering whether
to plunge into the pool of steaming hot,
reddish-gold waters of the onsen, or
simply return to the reassuring confines of
my villa. My trepidation is mainly because
Im told that one can only take a dip in
this onsen completely in the nude - a very
common community bath custom in onsen
tradition, but a bit of a culture shock to
me.
Lying before me is the Kinsen, or
golden hot-spring, one of the three
types of natural springs found in Arima.
The strongly basic ferruginous sodium
chloride spring is known for its beauty
benefits, as the thermal water leaves the
skin extremely smooth and moisturised.
Therapeutic effects of this onsen include
healing of external wounds, menstrual

Interior of the
Arimasansoh
Goshobbesho onsen
resort spa in Spring.

56

A traditional zen garden inside the

Arimasansoh Goshobessho.

Inside the gates of the Arimasansoh Goshobessho hot springs resorts 1.2 acre estate.

disorders and infertility in women,

chronic digestive disease, rheumatism
and even motor paralysis. It is also known
to help in therapy for active tuberculosis,
malignant tumours, severe heart disease
and anaemia, among other acute ailments.
The hot springs in Arima surface
from up to 60 metres underground, at
temperatures more than 98 degrees
Centigrade, Kanai informed me earlier.
Special pipes are then used to route
it straight to the bath houses of our
two properties, where the temperature
is controlled at around 40 degrees

The hot springs in Arima

surface from upto 60 meters
underground, at temperatures
more than 98 degree centigrade.
Centigrade. A walk around the town,
which is small enough to be explored
entirely on foot, uncovers a number of
active onsen sources, seen steaming
and whistling out of long pipes. Spices,
condiments, confectionery, and tea are
sold at every corner of the narrow, steeply
sloping main street, which was once
the path of a flowing stream across the
town. Local life is simple and relatively
uninterrupted by the world outside,
shielded by Mount Rokko and wrapped
in the rich heritage of the traditional
onsen. However, the esoteric charms of

this ancient spa

town have attracted
travellers from
across the world,
including some who
even set up a small
Western colony
here, in the pre-World War II era. As for
me, I did eventually take a plunge into the
onsens hypnotic waters and in doing so,
surrendered myself to a unique spiritual
experience one that stayed with me long
after the effects of the onsen had worn off.
How to Get There
Emirates flies direct and daily from
Dubai to Osaka. The business class
service aboard the Airbus A380 offers
the perfect start to the spa vacation.
With the chauffer-driven service from
your doorstep to the Emirates business
class lounge in Dubai, and from in-flight
services to regionally-inspired onboard
gourmet dining, the Emirates business
class service aims to be a seamless luxury
travel experience. Emirates also flies daily
between Dubai and Doha, Qatar.
Where to Stay
Arimasansoh Goshobessho, Arima Onsen.
Guests have the option to choose between
villas or two-storey maisonettes at the resort,
established on the site of the ancient Arima
Kiyomizu temple. Both types of stay offer
views of the Kiyomizu lake or the Taki river
and come with private thermal rooms and
access to the community onsen.
www.goshobessho.com/en

One of 10
luxury villas
at the
Arimasansoh
Goshobessho,
Arima Onsen.