Fitting the Bust

5 ways to add bust fullness

By Linda Lee

Whats in This Tutorial?

How to raise and lower an existing bust
dart - pages 9, 10
How to add a bust dart to a garment
that does not have one - pages 11-16
How to enlarge the bust without adding
a dart - pages 17-20
How to add bust fullness without a dart
in knit garments, method 1 - pages 21-23
How to add bust fullness in knit
garments, method 2 - page 24

Record Measurements
Use a good quality tape measure
that hasnt stretched and has its
original metal ends in place.
Wear well-fitting and new-ish
foundation garments.
Stand in front of a mirror when
taking your own measurements to
make sure the tape is level.
Record the measurements and
keep in an accessible place.

High Bust
Fit the tape measure under your arms
and wrap it evenly across the widest
part of the back and above the full bust.
Relax and breathe!

Full Bust
Without pulling the tape too tight,
measure over the fullest part of the
bust. Check to make sure the tape is
straight and parallel to the floor.
NOTE: If the full bust measurement is more than 2 larger
than the high bust, use the high bust measurement as
the bust measurement when selecting a pattern size.
Garment

Minimum Bust Ease

Blouse, Dress

2" to 3"

Unlined jacket

3" to 4"

Lined jacket

3" to 4"

Coat

4" to 5"

Distance Between Bust Points

Measure the distance
between the bust points.

NOTE: This measurement is used

when adding or moving bust darts.

Neck Point to Bust Point

Measure from the shoulder/neck point
to the bust point.
Find the shoulder/neck point by wearing
a simple chain necklace or bending your
neck toward the shoulder to locate the
crease.

NOTE: This measurement is also used when

adding or moving bust darts.

Find Your Starting Size - TOPS

MEASUREMENTS
High Bust - 36"
Full Bust - 40"
Waist - 32"

More than 2" difference between high and

full bust. Use the high bust measurement.

Make a size Medium and adjust

for the full bust and waist.

Placing the Bust Point

Measure from where the
shoulder and neck seams meet

Neck point to

bust point

Use the neck point to bust

point measurement to place the
bust point from the shoulder/neck
seamline.
Use the distance between bust
points measurement to determine
the distance from the center front.
Divide the measurement in half.

Center Front

Distance between bust

points divided by 2

Lower Bust Darts

Using the previous
measurements, mark your new
bust point on the pattern.

Straight of grain

Draw a horizontal line on the

pattern 1/2 above and below the
underarm dart at right angles to
the grainline. Connect the lines
with a vertical line through the
existing dart point. Cut out the
rectangle on the marked lines.

Front pattern piece

10

Lower Bust Darts

Lower the dart the amount
needed. Position the existing dart
point on the new bust point.
Place pattern paper under the
pattern and tape in place.
Connect the side seam cutting
lines.
To RAISE bust darts, remove the
same rectangular pattern section of
the existing dart and shift upwards
the amount needed.

11

Add Bust Dart

Draw the new bust point on the
pattern.
Draw a horizontal line
perpendicular to the grainline from
the side seam through the bust
point to the center front.

Center front

Draw a second line diagonally

from the bust point to the notch on
the armscye.
Draw a third line from the bust
point to the bottom of the garment.
Use a red marking pencil
to draw your lines.

12

Add Bust Dart

Place paper under the front. Cut
the pattern on the first horizontal
line from the side seam to the bust
point, leaving a hinge.

C cup - 1/2
D cup - 3/4
DD/E cup - 1 1/4
DDD/ED cup - 1 1/2

Cut the pattern apart starting at

the bottom of the pattern
continuing through the diagonal line
to the armhole, leaving a hinge.
Spread the vertical line on the
pattern according to the cup sizes
listed above, keeping the lines
parallel. (The pie shape that forms is
not the true dart.

Spread here

13

Add Bust Dart

Cut the pattern from the bust point
to the center front. Slide the pattern
section down until the two pattern
hemlines align. Tape in place. Restore
the center front and hemlines.

Slide down

14

Add Bust Dart

To find the true dart, draw a line
from the original bust point to the
side seam in the center of the
wedge opening. This is the center
foldline of the dart.

Center of
wedge opening

Mark a new dot toward the side

seam on this foldline.
Smaller than size 16 - dot is 1 away from the original bust point
Larger than a size 16 - dot is 2 to 2 1/2 from the original bust point

15

New point

Add Bust Dart

Draw the legs of the dart using
the new bust point as the tip and
the top and the bottom opening
points of the wedge at the ends.
Fold the dart in half along the
center foldline, matching the dart
legs and folding the dart down. Cut
off the excess paper along the side
seams.

For a full bust, try pressing the darts

up to give the appearance of a more
uplifted look.

For a bust alteration when more than 1 1/2 is needed, use

the Y bust dart method in Fit for Real People by Patti
Palmer and Marta Alto, page 146.

16

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

Mark the bust point on your
pattern.
Draw a vertical line parallel to the
grainline from the bottom to the
bust point. Continue this line
diagonally to the outer third of the
shoulder seam.
Draw a horizontal line,
perpendicular to the grainline, from
the side seam to the bust point.
For a full bust, try pressing the darts
up to give the appearance of a more
uplifted look.

17

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

Cut along both lines, leaving
hinges at the shoulder and side
edges.
Place paper under the front.
Spread the vertical line on the
pattern, keeping the lines parallel.
Allow the lefthand bottom section to
overlap the top section.

Overlap here

Tape the sections in place.

Spread here

18

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

Using a curved ruler such as a
hip curve, true the bottom hemline
leaving the side seam the original
length.
Restore the shoulder line and
side seam.

HIP CURVE

19

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

When the extra width is only
needed in the bust area and not at
the hips, manipulate the lower left
section so that the bottom corner
meets the vertical line and the two
vertical lines are no longer parallel.
Restore the hemline, shoulder
line and side seam as previously
directed.
Sections
connect at
this point

20

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

Mark the bust point on the
pattern.
Starting midway between the
shoulder seam and the armscye
notch, draw a line perpendicular to
the grainline.
3

Pivot this line and extend it

vertically to the bottom of the front.
At 3 below the armscye, draw a
line from the side seam to the
center front perpendicular to the
grainline.

21

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

Cut through all lines.
Move the armhole section out up
to 3/4 for a total of 1 1/2 ease
across the complete front/bust.
Move the lower center front
section down from 1 to 2
depending on your bust size and the
amount that the garment rides up.

Up to 3/4

1 to 2

22

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

Use a curved ruler such as a hip
curve to restore the armscye, side
seam and bottom hem.
Restore the center front line.

HIP CURVE

23

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 2

Draw a horizontal line from the side
seam to the center front through the
bust point.

FRENCH CURVE

Cut along this line and spread the

sections an even 1/2.
Mark a point 1/4 to 3/4from the
side seam at the spread area.

1/2
spread

Use a curved ruler such as a French

curve to draw a curved shape at the
side seam.
1/4 to 3/4

When sewing the front to the back,

ease this curved area to retain the
added fullness and keep the side
seams the same length.
24

Credits
Here are some resources that I used
when researching this topic. Consider
adding these to your library of techniques.
Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts by Marcy Tilton, page 46
Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina, pages 150 -173
Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto, page 146
Louise Cutting, Cutting Line Designs
The Perfect Fit, Creative Publishing International, pages 73-79
Threads magazine, November 2009, #145, page 84

25

Fitting the Bust

By Linda Lee