EAS/BIOEE 154

Lecture 13
Introduction to Oceanography
Tides
What are tides?
Tides are the rhythmic rise and fall of ocean water caused by the gravity of
the Moon (and Sun).
Tides are not the same everywhere
Timing
Diurnal ~ 1 daily cycle
Semidiurnal ~ 2 daily cycles
Mixed ~ 2 cycles, but of very different heights
Tidal range varies from 10s of cm to >10 m
Why?

Equilibrium Model of Tides

Highly idealized, but very instructive, view of Tides
Tide wave treated as a deep-water wave in equilibrium with lunar/solar
forcing
No interference of tide wave propagation by continents
No Coriolis Effect.
Simple Diurnal Tides
Gravity and centrifugal force act to produce two bulges on opposite sides of
the Earth.
Gravity pulls water toward Moon
Reduced gravitational force on side opposite the moon allows centrifugal
forces to pull water outward.
Earths rotation under the tidal bulge produces the rise and fall of tides over
approximately 1 day
Tidal Day = 24h + 50min; additional 50 minutes to due motion of the moon.
Why dont we see simple diurnal tidal patterns always and everywhere?
Inclination of the Moons orbit
The moons orbit is inclined up to 28.5 relative to the Earths equator and
this produces different tidal patterns at different latitudes (varies between
18.5 & 28.5 over 18 years).
Theoretically produces diurnal tides at high latitude, semidiurnal tides at
low latitude, and mix tides at mid-latitudes
The Sun
Gravitational force exerted on ocean surface about half that of the moon
Particularly strong tides (spring tides) when Sun and Moon are aligned
Weak tides (neap tides) occur when Sun and Moon are 90 degrees to
each other.
Spring and neap tides occur semi-monthly
Wave-like behavior of tides dynamic theory of tides

Dynamic Theory of Tides

A more sophisticated view of tides

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Lecture 13

Tidal wave treated as a shallow-water forced wave

Coriolis Force considered
Continents interfere with tidal wave propagation
Tide Waves Are Shallow-Water Waves
The tidal wave has wavelength (L) on the order of 1/2 the circumference of
the earth or about 20,000 km.
A wave will behave as a shallow water wave when depth < L/20 in this
case, for depth < 1000 km.
Since ocean bottom depths are typically only about 4 km, it is safe to
assume that a tide wave is a shallow-water wave everywhere
Tidal wave can be refracted by bathymetry
Tidal waves are forced shallow-water waves because tidal forces exerted
on the ocean by the moon and sun constantly interfere with the free
propagation of the shallow water wave.
The wave speed for a shallow water wave in 4km of water is 200m/sec (400
miles/hr). The speed that the earth rotates under the moon at the equator
is 463m/sec (1044 miles/hr).
As a consequence, ocean depth alone does not determine the tide wave.
Earths rotation and frictional bottom drag on the Tidal Wave causes the tidal
bulge to be pulled in front of the direct line to the Moon
The Coriolis Effect
Because of the large scales involved, tidal waves are deflected by the
Coriolis Effect, or Force.
Coriolis Force is an apparent force that results from the Earths rotation and
deflects movement to the right in the northern hemisphere (opposite in
southern hemisphere).
Coriolis Force causes rotation of tidal currents and tidal wave
Rotary Tides
Tides rotate in large basins some (e.g., Pacific) have several rotary tides
Cotidal line: same phase of wave, e.g., high tide
Corange line: same height of tidal wave
Amphidromic point: central point about which tides rotate.

Tide Measurements & Prediction

Tides are measured automatically by tide gauges around the world.

Modern tide gauges are simply pressure meters located beneath low-tide
level.
Tides have also been measured by the TOPEX-Poseidon satellite
Tides are complex functions of not only the driving forces lunar and solar
gravity), but also basin geometry. They are difficult to predict from theory
alone.
Most tide predictions are empirical - done by fitting mathematical functions to
match past tide measurements, then using these equations to predict
future tides.
Before digital computers, mechanical machines were used to predict tides.

Areas of Extreme Tidal Range

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Lecture 13

Examples:
Northwestern Europe (Mt. St. Michel)
Bay of Fundy (Maine, New Brunswick)
Tidal Bores, e.g., Seine, Amazon, Qiantang
Such large tides occur when the forcing frequency matches free wave
frequency, a phenomenon called resonance occurs and the free wave
interacts with the forced wave to produces a much larger wave than would
otherwise occur.
Deeps on basin geometry

Storm tides are a combination of:

High tide
Water driven shoreward by storm winds
Water rise due to low atmospheric pressure

Some Study Questions

Explain the difference between diurnal, semi-diurnal, and mixed
tides.
Why is the tidal day 50 minutes longer than the solar day?
Why are there two tidal budges on the Earth rather than just one
on the side facing the Moon?
How does the inclination of the Moons orbit affect whether a
diurnal or semi-diurnal tide occurs?
Why are tides considered shallow water waves?
What is the configuration of the Sun, Moon and Earth when spring
tides occur? How often do spring tides occur?
Explain the difference between cotidal and corange lines.
What are the conditions necessary for resonance to occur and
how does it affect tides when it does?